A necessity on the road.

Carne de Tracaya, land tortoise

typical scenery

Possibly the fate of many old wooden canoes, or just to keep the timbers moist during the dry season?

A welcome meal in Brau. 1/10/2014 Porto Grande to Tarturagalzinho D131, T12, Av16.87, max54, 32,882/7,352 Fine, light nor easter, 30° After 5 days in Porto, though my lower back still had a twinge, things felt pretty good. I had been rubbing liniment in each day and taking Ibuprofen tablets. The days had been spent walking near the river and once an internet place was found time was spent here. Wifi was nonexistent in the town. Coconuts and pineapples were great snack food during my time here. The last night at a different restaurant a huge meal was enjoyed for five dollars, all you could eat. In the morning things felt even better, a coffee was enjoyed and without eating I set off at 0645. I felt no hunger. The sun was yet to impact on the locale. It was good easy riding with an average of 20 set for the first few hours. The country is flat and scrubby, it is to dry for cattle so is just sitting idle. Arriving at the southern end of the lake at the dam on the river Araguari , a quick dip was very welcome, fully clothed, the bank was muddy so it was a tricky operation to get out without having muddy feet. Whislt in the dark tannin stained waters, my feet touched something in the depths. This freaks me out, I always have visions of being taken by a jacaré, silly, but I do. Anyway, the water was exited in a fast but contolled pace. Further on there were road works building causeways where the road crossed shallow arms of the dam lake. Here I stopped and talked to guys for awhile. Many people are French speakers as the border with French Guiana gets closer. There was a large detour on gravel road around all these works but the let me go through. Only a few metres had to be walked where trucks were dumping gravel. Eucalypt plantations were the only change in the flat terrain. By now, my water was getting low. I had done 80km by midday, on an empty stomach and about 4 litres of water. Soon this ran out. I knew that my body was now getting stressed, moving into another zone. One where dangers existed. A gel was taken with some of the last water. There were no lanchonettes this whole distance, just one town off the highway earlier on. Incidentily, the road was perfect for riding, flat smooth and a great shoulder with little traffic and no trucks after the road works. At the 93km mark, my body was going through further changes with no water now and little traffic things were not good. I was looking for water to filter from a pond. Thinking that I should have done so earlier where a good clean hole was seen. Up ahead was a power substation that stepped power down into poles alongside the road, this was a good sign as it meant houses somewhere were using 120 volt power. By now water was preoccupying my thoughts or more to the point the lack of it. At 97km a large white shed was seen on my left, there was a sign saying no entry. This did not deter me. Riding down the drive, there were 3 guys sitting around in the large building. They had a table with a large water esky on it. I asked if they had water. It was chilled, to say it was liquid gold nowhere near describes the sensation of having it available. Some 4-5 litres were drunk in succession. We talked, they were a fire crew here on watch to protect the plantations, it was a private concern. I was feeling very odd and had to go to the toilet, this was a weird experience. My body was in damage control. Back in the shed talking, nausea set in ,then I had to run outside and promptly spewed up every drop of the water. There was not a drop of food material in the purge. Just clean fresh water. As I was dry reaching, my wishes were that this had better make me feel better. Visions were had of having to ask if I could sleep here. Anyway as my internal systems were returning to normal I to felt better. This kind of situation, as said previously has to be avoided at all costs. It is not good for my general health and could be dangerous in the long term . Soon I felt hungry, the guys sat amused watching me prepare hot chocolate, noodles and sardines. My situation was improving by the minute. Three hours were spent here with them talking about our lives, families the forests among other things. I am so pleased to be able to communicate with people here in Brazil to some degree. My basic Spanish has been such a help in making Brazil so much more enjoyable. I still ride with some Spanish lessons playing now and again, though the right frame of mind is needed. There was 30 km to Tartarugalzinho. I said goodbye to the guys at 1500 with a full load of chilled water. It had been a stop in desperation, once off the bike I realised how stressed I was. I hate to think how I would have been had another 10 km or more needed to have been ridden. My map had totally incorrect distances on it marking these towns. The phone with no signal and only GPS did not show any detail. I felt like a million dollars as I left, unlike feeling like the 50c on the way in!. Music going, all was good again. Twelve km on a small loja was stopped at for a coke and two ice blocks. It was 18km to go. A drunk was filling me in on everything I did not need to know. The owner of the shop told me two French cyclists were here last month heading south. It would be so nice to bump into some other tourers. Maybe soon? Maybe not. Once in town at about 1800, a pousada was booked. I have enough Reals to see me to the border I hope. About 70 a day, that is with cheap accommodation. A lovely home cooked lasagne was enjoyed in the small town largely on the main road. The noise from the election promotions is unreal. People just drive round all day in a car with huge speakers on the roof blasting out a catchy tune incorporating the ballot numbers of their politician. They are four digit numbers, so you can imagine hearing cincuenti cuatro doce (5412) being drummed into you through an upbeat catchy tune. I feel myself and alot of other people will be glad to see October 5 come and go. The news on the TV in the roadside cafe even at full volume was inaudible, due to this cacophony and the fireworks. The ladys cat came slinking back across the road from the plaza looking terrified, like it had just landed after being sent skyward attached to one of the rockets. Such is life here in Rural Amapá, Brazil during an election campaign. I was sound asleep by 2100, in my air-conditioned basic lodgings. Every hotel stayed in for the last 2 months have all had hammock hooks in the walls. I can imagine people travelling with hammocks to these places when they were new. Back in the 70’s when these were pioneer towns in the jungle. My back had held up all day, really it is fine. Being an old companion of mine, it is known intimately and these days held in great respect. Much more care wil be taken when turning the bike over to rest on the bars and saddle for repairs in the future. Like most guys my age who have done any kind of manual work or who are handy, we have niggly lower backs. Time is the greatest healer for me in respect to my supportive pal above my bum! A lovely cold shower was had and a read was enjoyed 2/10/2014 Tarturagalzinho to Amapá D77, T7, Av17.4, max28, 32,958/7,429 Fine, fresh nor easter, 30° Porridge was had in my room and some bread with the owner. He gave me three bottles of cold icy water. No chances were being taken today. With these flat roads, it is necessary to pedal the whole way. So much more energy and hence water is required. Unlike yesterday, today there were small communities along most of the route. Again, much of the land had been burnt or was just very dry with no significant trees. The higher country in the distance was bush clad. A swim was enjoyed in one of the many streams and rivers, there were small holes along its rocky course. This was so nice. It is a great way to wash my clothing and importantly cool off. Just parking the bike and walking in fully dressed except for my sunglasses. Riding off soaking the heat of the day soon dries things off, if the perspiration doesn’t arrive first. From here, hunger set in. Arriving in Communidade Brau, I asked if there was a lanchonette here, some people said no. Anyway, I stopped at a small loja bought a drink. The man kindly gave me a bottle of ice. He went across the road to ask some friends if I could eat there. It was ok. Over there, the lady bought out three dishes, one rice the other meat and veges casseroled and farinha. The meat just fell off the bone and was sweet. I noticed some very small bones arranged in what looked like a foot pattern. Asking what it was she said it was Carne de Tracaya. This is a land tortoise that feeds on algae in streams. The people back on the road from Almeirim had a small one they were fattening. They said they get to be about as big as a forty four gallon drum top. They use torches to catch them at night. It was a fantastically tasty home cooked meal. From here, there was some 38 km to Amapá. I earlier, mentioned most of this road is gravel, now i hear there is maybe only 120km gravel north of me. Most of the asphalt so far ridden on is fairly newish. Such is the rate of progress here in Brazil. Knowlege from people on the spot is best. In Macapá people said gravel was the surface most of the way. Possibly they had driven the road two years ago, such is the difference now. Again, the riding was on new flat road with a good shoulder. Though, now a strong nor easter had set in making riding quite an effort. It had the advantage that it cooled things somewhat. Along the way, a guy had stopped me to talk, he had a bike shop in Amapá, once in town I stopped at his shop and had a few words. I was keen to find wifi in a pousada. After some questioning the pousada Cactus was located. This place was the most luxurious lodgings I have had in Brazil. It even had a hot shower. The first here since Mato Grosso do Sul and a bar fridge, all for $30. This and wifi to the room. After settling, all I could do was just lay splayed out on the comfy bed, in the air conditioned room and just cherish every moment of this luxury whilst browsing the net on my phone. I was lost here for an hour or more. Cycling is very big in all these small towns on this road. It is so flat. The riders use their bikes for transport not recreation or exercise. That just happens naturally. It is very relaxing in the evening seeing people of all ages just cruising around on their humble treadlies.

These forestry guys saved the day for me 38km before Tartarugalzinho. The green bottle was full of ice, we kept topping it up with sweet ground water. It was like a nurturing mother at the end of an umbilical cord for me .

Many rivers like this were crossed, all dark from tanin stains.

Main street, Ruta 156, Tartarugalzinho.

Roadside football ground.

luxury, at the pousada Cactus, Amapá