9/1/2014 El Calafate to El Cerrito
D97, T5/7, Av 18.8, Max56, Tot24,316, 14,518
Mild morning with 35 km westerlies, cold afternoon
As usual, taking our time we got away from the hostal about 1130 and made our way to the panadería for bread. Leaving town, the 32 km to the intersection was like being sucked into a huge vacuum cleaner tube. We were again literally propelled down the road in the fresh westerly.
It was such a pleasure after the ordeal to get to town.
We met two other riders heading north and a single German woman who looked rather distressed with her predicament.
We knew how she felt.
I was riding in shorts, shirt, and sandals, she was dressed in full wet weather gear just to keep the wind out. That is the comfort difference between a down wind and up wind passage here in Patagonia.
Very similar to sailing.
The road shifted a few degrees and with it our angle to the wind. It was a cross wind now. How things changed it got colder and more concentration was required.
There was a long climb which took us up to a plateau here it was very cold.
We lunched by a culvert.
The English cyclists had told us of a shed at El Cerrito we could stay in.
On arrival here at 1900, it was very welcome, a Swiss couple were already in residence.
We chatted over dinner. They too had ridden from El Calafate.
It was so good to be out of the cold howling wind that is so common here in summer, though abates for the winter.
The landscape is dead flat and largely featurelss. The trip here saw us pass only a couple of creeks.
The guy, here at the works building had left water for us and the others.
We had mattresses to sleep on, it really was luxury in an otherwise harsh environment.
10/1/2014, El Cerrito to Tapi Aike
D68, T7/9, Av 9.61, Max 35, Tot 24,384, 14,586
Howling westerlies, cold and wet.
During the middle of the night, my stomach was giving me a hard time and very painful, this saw me venture outside in the cold wind that was still howling.
Here a purging exercise took place in the frigid night air.
Something I had eaten or drunk last night was not wanted in my stomach.
Luckily in the morning all was good, though I felt a little light in the stomach.
Judith and Chris had left early in a bid to beat the wind.
Cal and I got away about 0830, i took the water bottles over to the guy who manned this isolated works depot and thanked him. He was very happy, maybe because he didn,t have to venture outside for the day.
As soon as we headed off the asphalt and onto the gravel, the road was in a general south west direction and the wind was from a general north west direction.
This combination on a road littered with loose and half buried rocks made for a day of very trying conditions.
We draughted for awhile but this was just to hard on the loose stones and cross winds.
We were riding fully kitted out under a grey bleak sky.
Coming to a stream that held trout, even our enthusiasm couldn’t see us wetting a line. Instead, I just filled the bladder with water for a cup of tea ahead.
From here we forged ahead, our minds in other places and our eyes on the road just infront of the front wheel in an effort to avoid stones.
Vegetation around us consisted of small shrubs and in places where stock was grazing, a light coloured grass prevailed.
Merino sheep were in large flocks at these places.
They soon departed from sight as we approached. Rustling is a bit of a problem here.
We came across a house tucked into the lee of a hill some 500m from the road. Here we stopped at the front entrance in the only sheltered spot we could find.
The best milo and Mata were enjoyed with sardines.
We still had 30km of this ahead and the wind was increasing.
Our positiveness had to increase at the rate rate as the wind.
Coming round one downhill corner, I looked back before crossing to the other side of the road. During this manouver, I lost it and ended up with the bike on top of a twisted ankle. Just lying there waiting for Cal. He was a way back, here I was lying in the middle of the road, trapped under a pannier.
Bearing the pain i kicked the bike aside with my free foot and managed to stagger from the immediate scene.
My knee also had a good grazing through my longs. Though other than that all was good. It was a wake up call. Only just the other day a Canadian girl had to go home unexpectedly with a broken arm.
The sky now was a fascinating arena of shades of grey, all this just added to the bleakness of the place.
Though with this bleakness, I found beauty in the scene. A beauty and wonder that helps me drive on in the conditions.
All day we were riding on different sides of the little used road in an effort to find the smoothest passage.
Though riding in these cross winds the upwind side of the road is the safest place. At least if you get blown down wind you have road to the left of you.
The rain started at about 1800, a stop was made to don all my gear including shoe covers. I had been wearing my waterproof socks all day and my neoprene diving gloves.
These have been a saviour as far as keeping my hands warm is concerned.
At about 1900 we caught site of the buildings that made up Tapi Aike, what a welcome site. We rode over to the gas station and enjoyed a coke each.
Then headed into the police property, which was sheds, trailered offices and machinery. The officer said htere were 3 other cyclists here, no doubt Judith and Chris. They were in a little room in a mobile office.
We were given the backhoe shed to put our tent up in. This was great to be out of the wind.
The other cyclist was Dallas from Brisbane, it was great to see another Aussie guy. We had a good yarn and laugh.
Callum was now feeling a bit sick in the stomach.
Dallas was heading north, we were going to get up early and ride with Chris and Judith to Cerro Castillo tomorrow and draught each other to make things a bit easier.
11/1/2014 Tapi Aike to Cerro Castillo
D57, T8, Av11.72, Max 48, Tot 24,441, 14,643
Windy with some sun
We were ready to roll at 0600. Callum had diarrhea in the evening, he was not feeling the best.
We said bye to Dallas and the four of us headed off in tight formation, draughting in 2 km stints. This really did make it easy going.
Cal had to stop for a couple squats along the way, Judith had some Imodium which helped him.
Every cycle of the draught we would stop for a chat and rest.
We all helped drag each other along.
Along the way in the saline water in low spots were Flamingos wading in the milky waters whose shores were lined with a white ribbon of salt.
We soon came to the turnoff to Cerro Castillo and border crossing back to chile.
This was a gravel road and the change in direction gave us some reprieve from the wind. The sun was out, what a different world.
Formalities at the AR Aduanas was easy. We soon came to a gully with a stream flowing through it.
There was an a assortment of white buildings, all part of an estancia. Here we enjoyed a really relaxing lunch by the stream out of the wind.
We ate fruit to get rid of it before passing into Chile. They are very strict about fruit and veges crossing the border.
We spend some time here just, lying around and eating.
The last few km into Cerro Castillo and the CL Aduanas was another battle into 60km/winds.
Once at the border, all went well, they checked our food panniers, and took a lemon i had forgotten about.
In Cerro Castillo, the wind was sapping the last from us. We all wanted shelter for the night.
There was a rodeo going on so we headed over there and heard about a woman who took in campers. We camped behind here house and were able to use the kitchen. We pitched in and shared a nice pasta and Chirizo number over a beer.
Tomorrow we were going to get up early to ride to Puerto Natales, again in an effort to beat the wind.
It had been great sitting in the kitchen of the warm house eating around a table. It blows here most of summer and they get 2 foot of snow on the ground in winter.
Electricity is free, though the generator switches off about 2200 most nights.
12/1/2013 Cerro Castillo to Puerto Natales
D64, T3, Av20.65, Max68, Tot 24505, 14,707
Mild, light winds!!!!!
As arranged, we were up about 0500 and packing before eating in the kitchen. Cal was still feeling a bit off.
It had been raining very lightly in the morning, a wet tent was packed.
The wind had not yet started. It was quite a different town out of the wind, very peaceful.
When thinking of Patagonia ,I always thought of it as a wilderness with water and forests everywhere. Parts of it are, though, alot of it we have ridden through is cleared and settled. A huge amount of it is this wind swept open desert type country.
After spending days in the wilderness camping it is quite a shock to get to these touristy town. The two are as far apart as imaginable.
Once on the road, it was a climb out of Cerro Castillo, then just a rolling ride to the coast and Puerto Natales.
Someone or something was looking after us. The wind never got up and in some cases the southerly passage was aided by light nor westers.
It was riding pleasure.
We didn’t even bother draughting and rode at our leisure. It was an unbelievably quick ride into Puerto Natales.
Once in town all we wanted to do was find a hostal. The one Dallas told us abut was booked out. Judith and Chris found one elsewhere and Cal and I found one across the plaza.
We met at a briefing about Torres Del Paine at erratic Rock Hostal. It was worth the attendance. From there we went for a beer and bumped into Sven who we road with some time ago.
Spending the evening in the hostal we both realised how much of an effort we had put into the last few days.
All that wind had impacted on us we were totally wasted. Hopefully we will get a couple of good days to visit Torres Del Paine while we are here.
Though most importantly it is just to had a well earned rest.
It has been like the completion of a leg, that from Villa O’Higgins to here. It was full of the unknown, wind played a huge role. The last few days with Judith and Chris were a great way both socially and from a riding point of view to end the leg.
Tonight we will enjoy the beds in our rather upmarket accommodation here in Puerto Natales.
We have earnt it!!
D97, T5/7, Av 18.8, Max56, Tot24,316, 14,518
Mild morning with 35 km westerlies, cold afternoon
As usual, taking our time we got away from the hostal about 1130 and made our way to the panadería for bread. Leaving town, the 32 km to the intersection was like being sucked into a huge vacuum cleaner tube. We were again literally propelled down the road in the fresh westerly.
It was such a pleasure after the ordeal to get to town.
We met two other riders heading north and a single German woman who looked rather distressed with her predicament.
We knew how she felt.
I was riding in shorts, shirt, and sandals, she was dressed in full wet weather gear just to keep the wind out. That is the comfort difference between a down wind and up wind passage here in Patagonia.
Very similar to sailing.
The road shifted a few degrees and with it our angle to the wind. It was a cross wind now. How things changed it got colder and more concentration was required.
There was a long climb which took us up to a plateau here it was very cold.
We lunched by a culvert.
The English cyclists had told us of a shed at El Cerrito we could stay in.
On arrival here at 1900, it was very welcome, a Swiss couple were already in residence.
We chatted over dinner. They too had ridden from El Calafate.
It was so good to be out of the cold howling wind that is so common here in summer, though abates for the winter.
The landscape is dead flat and largely featurelss. The trip here saw us pass only a couple of creeks.
The guy, here at the works building had left water for us and the others.
We had mattresses to sleep on, it really was luxury in an otherwise harsh environment.
10/1/2014, El Cerrito to Tapi Aike
D68, T7/9, Av 9.61, Max 35, Tot 24,384, 14,586
Howling westerlies, cold and wet.
During the middle of the night, my stomach was giving me a hard time and very painful, this saw me venture outside in the cold wind that was still howling.
Here a purging exercise took place in the frigid night air.
Something I had eaten or drunk last night was not wanted in my stomach.
Luckily in the morning all was good, though I felt a little light in the stomach.
Judith and Chris had left early in a bid to beat the wind.
Cal and I got away about 0830, i took the water bottles over to the guy who manned this isolated works depot and thanked him. He was very happy, maybe because he didn,t have to venture outside for the day.
As soon as we headed off the asphalt and onto the gravel, the road was in a general south west direction and the wind was from a general north west direction.
This combination on a road littered with loose and half buried rocks made for a day of very trying conditions.
We draughted for awhile but this was just to hard on the loose stones and cross winds.
We were riding fully kitted out under a grey bleak sky.
Coming to a stream that held trout, even our enthusiasm couldn’t see us wetting a line. Instead, I just filled the bladder with water for a cup of tea ahead.
From here we forged ahead, our minds in other places and our eyes on the road just infront of the front wheel in an effort to avoid stones.
Vegetation around us consisted of small shrubs and in places where stock was grazing, a light coloured grass prevailed.
Merino sheep were in large flocks at these places.
They soon departed from sight as we approached. Rustling is a bit of a problem here.
We came across a house tucked into the lee of a hill some 500m from the road. Here we stopped at the front entrance in the only sheltered spot we could find.
The best milo and Mata were enjoyed with sardines.
We still had 30km of this ahead and the wind was increasing.
Our positiveness had to increase at the rate rate as the wind.
Coming round one downhill corner, I looked back before crossing to the other side of the road. During this manouver, I lost it and ended up with the bike on top of a twisted ankle. Just lying there waiting for Cal. He was a way back, here I was lying in the middle of the road, trapped under a pannier.
Bearing the pain i kicked the bike aside with my free foot and managed to stagger from the immediate scene.
My knee also had a good grazing through my longs. Though other than that all was good. It was a wake up call. Only just the other day a Canadian girl had to go home unexpectedly with a broken arm.
The sky now was a fascinating arena of shades of grey, all this just added to the bleakness of the place.
Though with this bleakness, I found beauty in the scene. A beauty and wonder that helps me drive on in the conditions.
All day we were riding on different sides of the little used road in an effort to find the smoothest passage.
Though riding in these cross winds the upwind side of the road is the safest place. At least if you get blown down wind you have road to the left of you.
The rain started at about 1800, a stop was made to don all my gear including shoe covers. I had been wearing my waterproof socks all day and my neoprene diving gloves.
These have been a saviour as far as keeping my hands warm is concerned.
At about 1900 we caught site of the buildings that made up Tapi Aike, what a welcome site. We rode over to the gas station and enjoyed a coke each.
Then headed into the police property, which was sheds, trailered offices and machinery. The officer said htere were 3 other cyclists here, no doubt Judith and Chris. They were in a little room in a mobile office.
We were given the backhoe shed to put our tent up in. This was great to be out of the wind.
The other cyclist was Dallas from Brisbane, it was great to see another Aussie guy. We had a good yarn and laugh.
Callum was now feeling a bit sick in the stomach.
Dallas was heading north, we were going to get up early and ride with Chris and Judith to Cerro Castillo tomorrow and draught each other to make things a bit easier.
11/1/2014 Tapi Aike to Cerro Castillo
D57, T8, Av11.72, Max 48, Tot 24,441, 14,643
Windy with some sun
We were ready to roll at 0600. Callum had diarrhea in the evening, he was not feeling the best.
We said bye to Dallas and the four of us headed off in tight formation, draughting in 2 km stints. This really did make it easy going.
Cal had to stop for a couple squats along the way, Judith had some Imodium which helped him.
Every cycle of the draught we would stop for a chat and rest.
We all helped drag each other along.
Along the way in the saline water in low spots were Flamingos wading in the milky waters whose shores were lined with a white ribbon of salt.
We soon came to the turnoff to Cerro Castillo and border crossing back to chile.
This was a gravel road and the change in direction gave us some reprieve from the wind. The sun was out, what a different world.
Formalities at the AR Aduanas was easy. We soon came to a gully with a stream flowing through it.
There was an a assortment of white buildings, all part of an estancia. Here we enjoyed a really relaxing lunch by the stream out of the wind.
We ate fruit to get rid of it before passing into Chile. They are very strict about fruit and veges crossing the border.
We spend some time here just, lying around and eating.
The last few km into Cerro Castillo and the CL Aduanas was another battle into 60km/winds.
Once at the border, all went well, they checked our food panniers, and took a lemon i had forgotten about.
In Cerro Castillo, the wind was sapping the last from us. We all wanted shelter for the night.
There was a rodeo going on so we headed over there and heard about a woman who took in campers. We camped behind here house and were able to use the kitchen. We pitched in and shared a nice pasta and Chirizo number over a beer.
Tomorrow we were going to get up early to ride to Puerto Natales, again in an effort to beat the wind.
It had been great sitting in the kitchen of the warm house eating around a table. It blows here most of summer and they get 2 foot of snow on the ground in winter.
Electricity is free, though the generator switches off about 2200 most nights.
12/1/2013 Cerro Castillo to Puerto Natales
D64, T3, Av20.65, Max68, Tot 24505, 14,707
Mild, light winds!!!!!
As arranged, we were up about 0500 and packing before eating in the kitchen. Cal was still feeling a bit off.
It had been raining very lightly in the morning, a wet tent was packed.
The wind had not yet started. It was quite a different town out of the wind, very peaceful.
When thinking of Patagonia ,I always thought of it as a wilderness with water and forests everywhere. Parts of it are, though, alot of it we have ridden through is cleared and settled. A huge amount of it is this wind swept open desert type country.
After spending days in the wilderness camping it is quite a shock to get to these touristy town. The two are as far apart as imaginable.
Once on the road, it was a climb out of Cerro Castillo, then just a rolling ride to the coast and Puerto Natales.
Someone or something was looking after us. The wind never got up and in some cases the southerly passage was aided by light nor westers.
It was riding pleasure.
We didn’t even bother draughting and rode at our leisure. It was an unbelievably quick ride into Puerto Natales.
Once in town all we wanted to do was find a hostal. The one Dallas told us abut was booked out. Judith and Chris found one elsewhere and Cal and I found one across the plaza.
We met at a briefing about Torres Del Paine at erratic Rock Hostal. It was worth the attendance. From there we went for a beer and bumped into Sven who we road with some time ago.
Spending the evening in the hostal we both realised how much of an effort we had put into the last few days.
All that wind had impacted on us we were totally wasted. Hopefully we will get a couple of good days to visit Torres Del Paine while we are here.
Though most importantly it is just to had a well earned rest.
It has been like the completion of a leg, that from Villa O’Higgins to here. It was full of the unknown, wind played a huge role. The last few days with Judith and Chris were a great way both socially and from a riding point of view to end the leg.
Tonight we will enjoy the beds in our rather upmarket accommodation here in Puerto Natales.
We have earnt it!!
Callum up ahead, a Patagonian sky overhead and perceivierence in my head!
On the way to Tapi Aike.
 Another wall of Perito Moreno.
 Estancia Cruz Aike out of El Calafate
 The best spot we could find for lunch on the way to Tapi Aike
 Trying to reduce the effort required in the wind.
 Heading into Puerto Natales
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 There were pieces breaking off here all the time during our presence. When not doing so this monolith of nature was creaking and cracking.
 It was enjoyable catching up with Alex again.
 The little building in the middle is where we spent the night at El Cerrito
 Flamengo habitat on the way to Cerro Castillo
 Lunch on the way to Cerro Castillo between border controls
 Arrival into Cerro Castillo
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