These animals are so much bigger than ever imagined.
31/5/2015 Kariani to Meru
D48, T4, Av11.72, Max76, 411134, 6013
Cloudy, late shower, mild
It had rained overnight, so things were still very wet in the morning. We slowly packed up and carried our wet tents on the back of our bikes. Again, it was a day of up hills and straight back down. Traffic had eased a bit, we used the shoulder where possible. Here there were also speed humps on the shoulder in many places, again to deter undertaking.
The hill country continued with rapid descents possible. The countryside was very lush with tea plantations common. Going up one incline, Cal and I stopped and dried our tents out behind the traffic barrier in the long grass. The tropical sun took no time to dry them.
This is an important task following wet nights, so as to ensure a dry tent for the following night and to preserve the fabric. After all, they will be our homes for much of the time in the coming months.
In Kanyekine we stopped for lunch in a busy restaurant selling just the best fresh fried chicken.
About 6km from Meru, we crossed the equator. In Meru, it took ages to find a suitable hotel. Some were over priced and others full. We finally found Palms Lodge up out of town a bit past Nakumatt.
All the while in the city drunks had been hassling us for money and waffling on. However, many people were helpful. We were lucky to find the hotel as rains were imminent and did arrive shortly after settling in.
Going out for dinner, this persistent guy kept following us. In the end he had to be told in no uncertain terms to leave us alone. The boys are getting used to this behaviour and how to deal with it. Often a feeling of rudeness prevails after you have told these kind of people to go away. Really, there is no other way to deal with it.
Keru is also known as the chat capital of Kenya. This combined with alcohol also creates problems with people annoying us.
1/6/2015 Meru to Maranio Farm
D31, T3.3, Av8.8, Max46, 41165, 6044
Cloudy, and cold when stopped
The hotel Palms Lodge guesthouse had been a great place to stay. We headed down into town to get some bread and salad veges for lunch on the road we also bought potatoes to fry for the evening as we intended to camp.
It turned out it was a public holiday, no wonder there were so many drunk people hassling us last night.
It was Madaraka Day, this celebrates the day Kenya attained self rule in 1963, preceding full independence from the United Kingdom on the 12 December 1963.
We took the road left at Kirau, this would take us along the edge of the Engare Ndare forest. It was a steady climb up to the small village. It was just so good to be away from traffic, in the forest and hear birds chirping. We had ridden for 6 days in traffic.
There was elephant dung on the road and elephant fencing in places, the guys saw monkeys on the road, what a change.
We stopped for lunch in Kirua, at a great little eatery serving Matoke with meat.
The road from the turnoff, was a patchy asphalt surface. It steadily climbed. The rural views were impressive. Small villages were encountered much of the way. We could not see Mt Kenya due to the constant cloud cover, at least it was not raining.
Some 10km later, the asphalt came to a halt. The road was very narrow and bumpy.
Ben has really improved his fitness and is now coming close to never being too far behind or us having to let him go ahead, it is great, he is enjoying it a lot more.
We stopped at a farm and got our bladders filled with fresh mountain water. We had intended to camp.
Getting to a turnoff to the forest, we decided to carry on. Come another 6km we came to another road. Here Bens chain decided to break again, this was repaired and the entrance to the road. It turned out to be the driveway to Maranio Farm. There were people at the entrance; we asked them if they knew of a spot to camp.
They said they could ring the owner of the property, a man called Jimmy. I called him and introduced myself. He said it would be fine to camp up on the property for the night.
He told us to wait near the airstrip. By now, it was 1700 and getting very cold as we waited.
Soon a green Landcruiser pickup came down the road. The driver introduced himself as Jamie we laughed, this is what his staff call him.
I had visions of a Kenyan overseer.
Jamie said there was a nice spot to camp in front of his house.
It was a steep climb up to the home, especially at the end of the day.
Once up there, we chatted until near dark and then had to set our tents up. We had been invited back to the house for dinner. Danielle, Jamie’s wife was introduced. We had a couple of beers around a great open fire and enjoyed a great soup accompanied with salad and cheese.
Jamie showed us some routes on the map for the trip west.
It was so nice to have been fed and enjoy the company of this family. We headed back to the tents and fell asleep, looking forward to the sunrise in the morning from this elevated position at 2600m. We had climbed 1000m today.
2/6/2015 Maranio farm to Nanyuki
D54, T2.4, Av20.56, Max66, 41,219 6098
Cloudy, late shower, mild
We had been camping in a spot overlooking the plateau below. With expansive views to the east and north. Consequently, the first rays of sun, were received across the site. It had been a fresh night, maybe down to 5 degrees. As usual in the morning, the tents have quite a bit of condensation inside the flies.
We were up before the sun to get some photos and enjoy this great spot.
Being so close to the equator, it warmed things up rapidly and began to dry the tents just as quick.
We had breakfast and went over to see Danielle at the house, she made us tea and we sat on the balcony chatting.
I had some Coartem that had just expired and gave it to them in case they knew someone who may want it.
It took till 0930 before the tents were totally dry. This saves a stop on route. Jamie came back from the farm, we said goodbye and headed off down the track.
It had been a great unexpected stay with this lovely hospitable family who had given us an insight into this kind of life in Kenya.
A privileged, though hard working life, one that is not as predictable as the same kind of life in our respective countries. Making it far more interesting and adventurous.
For example, having a road accident and you injure someone, in most cases, regardless of circumstances you are in the wrong, or having to delicately handle inter tribal relations with staff and communities.
I feel all these coupled with other social and political situations would make for an exciting and challenging life here on the land in Kenya.
Ben and I both said it felt odd to have a Kenyan man bring us the cups of tea on a tray to the table.
Their property had 100 staff, who have houses in an area below their home, some had been on the property for 40 years. He said much time is spent on keeping everyone happy and at the same time making it worthwhile employing so many people.
Importantly, he said there is a major cultural difference, that makes this kind of arrangement possible.
I can’t begin to imagine the logistics of trying to manage 100 staff on a property in Australia. Especially, if they were living on site.
He said that the arrangement offers stability to their lives. A few have left for better job prospects only to find the term of employment come to an end after sometime, most have come back to look for work.
He went onto say that he gets great pleasure from seeing his staff move onto do things that improve their lives, but the training he provides to his them really needs their service to be for a minimum of five years.
Having had a small business and also trained staff, I can understand this exactly.
Jamie also said, he is continually looking at new management practices to stay competitive, no tillage cropping is being practiced now.
Over the last few days, we have spent time with Kenyans from many walks of life and shared time in their homes. For us it has been such a privilege to get an insight into Kenyan life.
It was almost 1.5 km down to the gate. The plateau below is sprinkled with game ranches, down here Rhinos and most of the other animals graze with cattle.
Half an hour heading towards the main road and down to Nanyuki, the guys were up ahead talking to a guy in a Landcruiser pickup.
Charlie was the owner of the property known as Kisima Farm.
He was a great guy with a sense of humour, we sat on the side of the dirt road and chatted for an hour, he then took us to his little chip shop and bought us a plate of freshly cooked potato chip. They were fantastic. His little shop is just past the intersection on the main road to Nanyuki. It is called Chuckys chips. If you are ever this way, make a stop for a plate of these excellent fries.
From here, the road was generally downhill. Many large plastic tunnel houses were seen, all the way to Timau. Inside these were flowers, and in most cases roses for the fresh European market. This area has been discovered, as one of the best sites in the world for growing roses in tunnel houses.
Almost all the way to Nanyuki was downhill. It most certainly payback for all the hard work coming up from Nairobi. Once in Nanyuki, we stopped at the Nackumatt and bought a few things. We then hunted for a guesthouse/hotel. Charlie had given us the name of a man who could help.
Anyway, after a long hunt we found a reasonably priced place, the Nyahururu Horizon Hotel.
A favourite on the streets is fresh slices of sweet watermelon for 10 or 20 bob, we found a guy who was selling just the sweetest slices and had a few each.
I needed to repair a front pannier that had ripped, again the glue came in very handy, my panniers are succumbing to the sunlight degradation over time.
Again, we had a meal of pork in a local eatery. We commented on how easy the ride had been. Though, we all got sunburnt.
We had come down from 2600 to about 1905m, so mosquitoes and malaria were still not a problem. There were no nets in our hotel rooms.
3-4/6/2015 Nanyuki to Lengetia farm
D42, T2.5, Av14.44, Max57, 41,262 6140
Fantastic cloudless day.
We were up at the normal time, there was hot water as they had been burning wood all night beneath the water tank, a common way of heating water in some of these cheaper guest houses.
On the road in town, we stopped for mendasi and tea. We always take honey into the cafes and pour some into the pocket in the mendasis, it tastes great.
The need for more honey had arisen, so some was bought at the Nakumatt in town. From here, again the road was generally flat and going down in places. It was such a beautiful morning, not a cloud in the sky.
We crossed the equator again just out of Nanyuki, putting us back in the southern hemisphere.
Mount Kenya was showing herself gloriously. It has a jagged peak and spreads greatly at its base, some 60% of Kenyas fresh water comes from here. There was only a minimum shoulder on the road but traffic was light.
Whilst taking photos of the mountain, my reading glasses were left on the back of the bike, riding off and forgetting, they fell off somewhere. Ten km down the road, this was realised. I always carry a spare pair so it was no problems. I had managed to hold onto them for nearly a year and a half so that is good going really.
We soon got to the turnoff at Naro Moru, the road was gravel. In a small village down here we stopped for oranges. Along this road is the nthn boundary of the Solio Game Ranch. Jamie had told us he often sees Rhino near the road. We got up on the track at the roadside, in no time a band of Savannah Baboons was seen near the fence, they slowly moved off into the lowly treed Savannah.
In the distance, we saw Warthogs and a few species of Antelope and larger Oryxs.
As we rode along the fence line, the road dropped into a low area, on the other side of this, in the distance could be seen a group on Rhino and some Buffalo.
We stopped here and took numerous pics. This was quite amazing for us.
There was a green Landcruiser out in the savannah stopping near this group of animals, guests inside were taking pics also.
The arrangement here is if you want to do a safari here, you must stay in their lodge as far as I know.
We headed off up the track a bit. An African lady in a Landcruiser on the gravel road said to Cal why don’t you pay to see the animals. Some people just don’t understand the concept of cycle touring. For us and many others, it is not about doing touristy things. It is about experiencing the people and culture of a country in a more pure way. These touristy type attractions would soon blow out the budget of your average touring cyclist who likes nothing better than to wild camp in some remote spot, not stay in lavish accommodation.
She drove after having had her say.
To our excitement under a small tree almost on the fence line were two mature White Rhino, we couldn’t take enough photos, they were in no hurry to move, but soon sauntered off. These animals are almost prehistoric in appearance when seen up close. They are so much bigger than ever imagined.
From here, we crossed the road to some trees and enjoyed sandwiches and a cup of tea for lunch. A phone call was made to Laurie a friend of Charlies who said he could let us camp on his property for the night.
So about 5km up the road we took a right hand turn down a dirt track. It was some 3km into his farm. It was a wheat and barley growing concern. We arrived at the gate and were greeted by a woman at a watch house who was expecting us.
At the homestead, Sarah, Laurie’s wife greeted us. What a lovely relaxing place this was. The mown lawn at the rear of the single storied house had mature Acacias growing on it.
These offered great shade. Under these, we set up our camp. Before dinner, we wandered to the house and had nuts and beers, before heading back to our little camp to cook pasta and fried potatoes for dinner.
The atmosphere here was idyllic and the temperature just perfect for sleeping.
Laurie was born and bred Kenyan though of British descent. He has family in Australia.
The people off the land we have met in the last few days have been so kind and hospitable to us. We are very, very fortunate to have been their guests. The local knowledge they have provided us has been especially helpful.
4/6/2015 Lengetia Farm
Ben has been spewing up all he was eating, so it was decided to stay another day, Sarah and Laurie were more than happy for us to do so. We were reasonably independent in our little camp under the Acacia on the back lawn. We had water there for washing and really only required some to drink. However, we did use their electricity to charge our phones and laptops. They have a recently installed, stand alone solar system powering the house. Prior to this, a generator provided electricity. In this respect, it was great as they could go about their day without having to cater too much for us.
Sarah was so hospitable, a couple of times a day she would provide tea or coffee for us under the veranda overlooking the back lawn.
Cal and I went for a walk down to the small creek, this took us through a delightful vege garden, full of most staple veges like potatoes, brassicas and greens.
We walked alongside a large paddock where Laurie had been using no tillage practices. Here weed control had been used to keep the soil amongst the stubble clean. As he said, erosion was almost negligible.
The next crop was due to be drilled in September, so now was a time for maintenance and repairs. He said some farmers put in a second crop that is growing now. However, like in Ethiopia the rain can be a little unreliable. He said for him, it makes more sense only sow one crop, and do it well.
Down by the creek was a mixed forest of Eucalypt, Acacias and some Sheoaks.
Late in the afternoon, Laurie had told us we would go for a drive in the game conservatory beyond his wheat paddocks. So, as arranged we took a few cold Tuskers and drove out through the wheat paddocks to the north. His operation was huge in my mind. We crossed through a 1000 acre wheat paddock, All drilled by GPS controlled equipment.
Each year the following crop is sown between the rows of the previous. Out on the field Thompsons Gazelle were grazing, there was also a group of Black Crowned cranes, very large striking birds. He said he just accepts that he has to share the crop with these animals.
We soon got to the perimeter fence of the game reserve. The fence was an elaborate maze of electrified wires, aimed mainly at keeping elephants in the park.
Inside the main fence was another wire with lengths extending from it into the reserve, these strands were heavily laden with electricity, enough to knock us off our feet.
In previous years, he said elephants had breached the original fence. This has since deterred them. Once through the locked gate and within 500m down the track, we came across elephants and baboons down by a creek.
This was absolutely amazing for us. Here were these two huge animals just standing in their natural environment. This is what made it so special. I have seen many elephants but always working or in some kind of unnatural environment. In my enthusiasm, I went to get out of the car, Laurie said it was not a good idea. The big bull was stirring up the ground with one foot.
On the way into the creek area, there were whole areas of damaged and uprooted trees. All done by elephants, they can be very destructive.
There was a troop of baboons down by the creek.
Before getting out of the Acacia forests, we chanced upon a family group of giraffe, they were meandering along grazing on the tree tops that only they are privileged to browse without having to destroy the trees.
I asked myself why these African animals are so fascinatingly loud in their uniqueness among the animal kingdom.
Further on and out onto the open grasslands under a huge African sky that had rich colours of instability across its inverted landscape, was a multitude of free game. Everything from groups of Thompsons Gazelle, isolated Onyx, Water Buck, Zebras, and large herds of buffalo, here too were many other antelope the names of I can’t remember.
Mt Kenya was off on the eastern horizon.
It was all very dramatic. We soon say a family group of elephant, too see these huge roamers against this sky was quite emotional for me. Here was Africa as imagined. We stopped out here in this rich openness for a beer. All around us in the distance were zebra, elephants and antelope all co existing on the rich grasslands.
Cattle also graze out here, they are corralled every night by staff.
Rhino and all the predators are also present in the park. None were seen.
Poaching has been an issue. Recently, due to donations, the staff are now equipped with state of the art weapons and night vision gear. They shoot to kill anyone seen acting out of sorts. On full moon nights, all staff are mobilised, as this light provides the perfect opportunity for poachers who are motivated by money and the Asians who have a misguided penchant for ivory and rhino horn.
Laurie was saying every Rhino in the park has a name and they are continually monitored, if one is not seen for a while they while track it until located. The black rhino are solitary browsers, which can make locating them hard.
Thanks to the vigilance and equipment of the staff, poaching is now an isolated occurrence here.
He said that in Solio, it is still a problem and is often carried out by insiders, in this respect, money is exposed at its most evil. Whilst having lunch outside Solio, the other day, an armed guard was seen walking inside the perimeter.
He said shots could be often heard from their house in the night, possibly indicating another Rhino dying whilst having its horn hacked off its face whilst an Asian sits waiting for its delivery to him at a later time.
Ironically, as the Asian nations become more affluent, their citizens who are able to afford , may never be privileged to see these animals in their natural habitat because of their own customs.
It really is a tragedy that continues to unfold here in Africa. These guys shoot a rhino. Use an axe to hack the horn of it and run like hell to a moto and then transport it to Nairobi where the big wigs hangout, from here it leaves the country.
Once in Asia it is sold for ridiculous amounts to rich idiots who think it has powers. In reality, the only power it has is to render elephants and rhinos extinct. Not to mention, every other exotic animal body part on this planet that these ignorant people desire.
That is my say on this matter.
We finally got out of the park just before 1900, which is when everyone has to be out. On the way, staff were seen with a herd of cattle near a coral.
Laurie was saying the lions often stake out these corrals at night. Sometimes the animals inside will die from asphyxiation due to crushing from fear of these huge cats.
Back at the house, we were still coming to terms with the amazing experience we had just had.
What made it all the more interesting was Laurie’s off the cuff commentary and knowledge of the animals and the lives of the people who try to keep them happy and safe.
The evening was spent in the house where Sarah had a great soup and bread prepared.
We felt so comfortable with them. Our time with them on the farm will always be a deeply etched memory of Kenya in Laikipia, under the aura of Mt Kenya.
Our time with everyone here was a chain of introductions along the back roads, all initiated by the need to find a camp at a farm gate.
Earlier during the day, we had wandered over to Lauries huge machinery compound, heavily secured by a high electrified fence. Here was everything required for a totally self sufficient wheat growing operation.
The plant and machinery was everywhere. Topped off by two state of the art John Deere headers and large silo storage for the grain.
We just wandered about looking at the whole operation. Staff were fabricating timber storage frames, bagging seed wheat, dismantling a shed to make way for more silos, constructing another machinery shed. It was a hive of activity.
I kept thinking how lucky we were to be experiencing all this. It was a firsthand look at the operations of a Kenyan broad acre farming operation.
5/6/2015 The farm to Nyahururu
D69, T4.49, Av14.33, Max66, 41,331, 6209
Clear but fresh, still at 2000m
It was raining when we left the house to go to our tents. The boys decided to sleep in the carriage on the lawn. In the tent was fine for me. Ben was still not that well. He could not keep food down.
In the morning, he said he had spewed last night’s dinner up again.
He said he was ok to ride. He had his porridge for breakfast and kept it down. I was ready and headed over to the kitchen to make sandwiches with ingredients left by Sarah.
In the end just sliced buttered bread was prepared, we had honey and vegemite.
Laurie offered to take us 6km through the farm over some black soils that may still be sticky due to the nights rain.
Our tents were packed wet.
We loaded all the bikes into the tray of the Hilux. We headed out across the property to the west. Mt Kenya could be seen in the clear morning to the east.
On the way over to the gravel road, I had some money to give Laurie to buy a few beers. He would have no part of it. This was the type of person he was. A hardworking, generous, enthusiastic, honest and very likeable man, who loved nothing better than to welcome people into his home and share a good conversation and experiences over a laugh. Sarah possessed similar attributes, both were very interesting and relaxed people to be in the company of.
I feel he and Sarah enjoyed having us, which made our stay even more enjoyable.
We took a few pics and said goodbye. I rode off with warm memories
The road was a good surface of aggregate that could handle rain. We dried the tents along the way. Some 18km we were on the main road west to Nyahururu. Here we stopped at the village to buy bananas and Ben bought water for a change.
He was not feeling well and had spewed up his breakfast further back.
For me it was a worry, he was not eating properly.
I always compare things to travelling in a car. You never leave for a trip with a half full tank of gas. That is exactly what Ben had done.
Eating is important to keep that tank full.
Five kilometres down the tarmac, Ben had literally run out of fuel. He could not go on.
We had the choice of camping in a gravel pit where we stopped or, a better idea was for Ben to hitch a ride to Nyahururu with Cal and I riding.
So, within 5 minutes of hitching Ben got a ride in an old ute.
Cal and I set off at 1430 with 40km to go .
The road surface was that of new ever so smooth asphalt, laid among rolling hills. It was a pleasure to ride either on the shoulder or on the road.
Traffic was not heavy.
We again crossed the equator 10 or so km before the town. Back in the NH again.
We stopped for beans and chapati in the town of Wyumiririe. My thirst saw me down 4 cups of chai.
We finally got into Nyahururu at 1800, it had been a great ride.
We met Ben near the entrance to the downtown. He had found a hotel for us. A local had taken him to check it out. It was a bit rough and ready but at 250 bob a night our cheapest yet in Kenya.
Ben was still not too well but feeling better and not nauseas.
We headed to the supermarket and bought stores for the days ahead.
Dinner saw us eat the normal in a little eatery next to the hotel, which was on a dirt back street in town. It was lodgings that most Kenyans could afford.
Our beds had no pillows, on asking for one, the manager said they are not needed, great reply I thought, there were no complaints on my part.
THE INTERNET IS TO SLOW FOR MANY PICS HERE IN NYAHURURU
D48, T4, Av11.72, Max76, 411134, 6013
Cloudy, late shower, mild
It had rained overnight, so things were still very wet in the morning. We slowly packed up and carried our wet tents on the back of our bikes. Again, it was a day of up hills and straight back down. Traffic had eased a bit, we used the shoulder where possible. Here there were also speed humps on the shoulder in many places, again to deter undertaking.
The hill country continued with rapid descents possible. The countryside was very lush with tea plantations common. Going up one incline, Cal and I stopped and dried our tents out behind the traffic barrier in the long grass. The tropical sun took no time to dry them.
This is an important task following wet nights, so as to ensure a dry tent for the following night and to preserve the fabric. After all, they will be our homes for much of the time in the coming months.
In Kanyekine we stopped for lunch in a busy restaurant selling just the best fresh fried chicken.
About 6km from Meru, we crossed the equator. In Meru, it took ages to find a suitable hotel. Some were over priced and others full. We finally found Palms Lodge up out of town a bit past Nakumatt.
All the while in the city drunks had been hassling us for money and waffling on. However, many people were helpful. We were lucky to find the hotel as rains were imminent and did arrive shortly after settling in.
Going out for dinner, this persistent guy kept following us. In the end he had to be told in no uncertain terms to leave us alone. The boys are getting used to this behaviour and how to deal with it. Often a feeling of rudeness prevails after you have told these kind of people to go away. Really, there is no other way to deal with it.
Keru is also known as the chat capital of Kenya. This combined with alcohol also creates problems with people annoying us.
1/6/2015 Meru to Maranio Farm
D31, T3.3, Av8.8, Max46, 41165, 6044
Cloudy, and cold when stopped
The hotel Palms Lodge guesthouse had been a great place to stay. We headed down into town to get some bread and salad veges for lunch on the road we also bought potatoes to fry for the evening as we intended to camp.
It turned out it was a public holiday, no wonder there were so many drunk people hassling us last night.
It was Madaraka Day, this celebrates the day Kenya attained self rule in 1963, preceding full independence from the United Kingdom on the 12 December 1963.
We took the road left at Kirau, this would take us along the edge of the Engare Ndare forest. It was a steady climb up to the small village. It was just so good to be away from traffic, in the forest and hear birds chirping. We had ridden for 6 days in traffic.
There was elephant dung on the road and elephant fencing in places, the guys saw monkeys on the road, what a change.
We stopped for lunch in Kirua, at a great little eatery serving Matoke with meat.
The road from the turnoff, was a patchy asphalt surface. It steadily climbed. The rural views were impressive. Small villages were encountered much of the way. We could not see Mt Kenya due to the constant cloud cover, at least it was not raining.
Some 10km later, the asphalt came to a halt. The road was very narrow and bumpy.
Ben has really improved his fitness and is now coming close to never being too far behind or us having to let him go ahead, it is great, he is enjoying it a lot more.
We stopped at a farm and got our bladders filled with fresh mountain water. We had intended to camp.
Getting to a turnoff to the forest, we decided to carry on. Come another 6km we came to another road. Here Bens chain decided to break again, this was repaired and the entrance to the road. It turned out to be the driveway to Maranio Farm. There were people at the entrance; we asked them if they knew of a spot to camp.
They said they could ring the owner of the property, a man called Jimmy. I called him and introduced myself. He said it would be fine to camp up on the property for the night.
He told us to wait near the airstrip. By now, it was 1700 and getting very cold as we waited.
Soon a green Landcruiser pickup came down the road. The driver introduced himself as Jamie we laughed, this is what his staff call him.
I had visions of a Kenyan overseer.
Jamie said there was a nice spot to camp in front of his house.
It was a steep climb up to the home, especially at the end of the day.
Once up there, we chatted until near dark and then had to set our tents up. We had been invited back to the house for dinner. Danielle, Jamie’s wife was introduced. We had a couple of beers around a great open fire and enjoyed a great soup accompanied with salad and cheese.
Jamie showed us some routes on the map for the trip west.
It was so nice to have been fed and enjoy the company of this family. We headed back to the tents and fell asleep, looking forward to the sunrise in the morning from this elevated position at 2600m. We had climbed 1000m today.
2/6/2015 Maranio farm to Nanyuki
D54, T2.4, Av20.56, Max66, 41,219 6098
Cloudy, late shower, mild
We had been camping in a spot overlooking the plateau below. With expansive views to the east and north. Consequently, the first rays of sun, were received across the site. It had been a fresh night, maybe down to 5 degrees. As usual in the morning, the tents have quite a bit of condensation inside the flies.
We were up before the sun to get some photos and enjoy this great spot.
Being so close to the equator, it warmed things up rapidly and began to dry the tents just as quick.
We had breakfast and went over to see Danielle at the house, she made us tea and we sat on the balcony chatting.
I had some Coartem that had just expired and gave it to them in case they knew someone who may want it.
It took till 0930 before the tents were totally dry. This saves a stop on route. Jamie came back from the farm, we said goodbye and headed off down the track.
It had been a great unexpected stay with this lovely hospitable family who had given us an insight into this kind of life in Kenya.
A privileged, though hard working life, one that is not as predictable as the same kind of life in our respective countries. Making it far more interesting and adventurous.
For example, having a road accident and you injure someone, in most cases, regardless of circumstances you are in the wrong, or having to delicately handle inter tribal relations with staff and communities.
I feel all these coupled with other social and political situations would make for an exciting and challenging life here on the land in Kenya.
Ben and I both said it felt odd to have a Kenyan man bring us the cups of tea on a tray to the table.
Their property had 100 staff, who have houses in an area below their home, some had been on the property for 40 years. He said much time is spent on keeping everyone happy and at the same time making it worthwhile employing so many people.
Importantly, he said there is a major cultural difference, that makes this kind of arrangement possible.
I can’t begin to imagine the logistics of trying to manage 100 staff on a property in Australia. Especially, if they were living on site.
He said that the arrangement offers stability to their lives. A few have left for better job prospects only to find the term of employment come to an end after sometime, most have come back to look for work.
He went onto say that he gets great pleasure from seeing his staff move onto do things that improve their lives, but the training he provides to his them really needs their service to be for a minimum of five years.
Having had a small business and also trained staff, I can understand this exactly.
Jamie also said, he is continually looking at new management practices to stay competitive, no tillage cropping is being practiced now.
Over the last few days, we have spent time with Kenyans from many walks of life and shared time in their homes. For us it has been such a privilege to get an insight into Kenyan life.
It was almost 1.5 km down to the gate. The plateau below is sprinkled with game ranches, down here Rhinos and most of the other animals graze with cattle.
Half an hour heading towards the main road and down to Nanyuki, the guys were up ahead talking to a guy in a Landcruiser pickup.
Charlie was the owner of the property known as Kisima Farm.
He was a great guy with a sense of humour, we sat on the side of the dirt road and chatted for an hour, he then took us to his little chip shop and bought us a plate of freshly cooked potato chip. They were fantastic. His little shop is just past the intersection on the main road to Nanyuki. It is called Chuckys chips. If you are ever this way, make a stop for a plate of these excellent fries.
From here, the road was generally downhill. Many large plastic tunnel houses were seen, all the way to Timau. Inside these were flowers, and in most cases roses for the fresh European market. This area has been discovered, as one of the best sites in the world for growing roses in tunnel houses.
Almost all the way to Nanyuki was downhill. It most certainly payback for all the hard work coming up from Nairobi. Once in Nanyuki, we stopped at the Nackumatt and bought a few things. We then hunted for a guesthouse/hotel. Charlie had given us the name of a man who could help.
Anyway, after a long hunt we found a reasonably priced place, the Nyahururu Horizon Hotel.
A favourite on the streets is fresh slices of sweet watermelon for 10 or 20 bob, we found a guy who was selling just the sweetest slices and had a few each.
I needed to repair a front pannier that had ripped, again the glue came in very handy, my panniers are succumbing to the sunlight degradation over time.
Again, we had a meal of pork in a local eatery. We commented on how easy the ride had been. Though, we all got sunburnt.
We had come down from 2600 to about 1905m, so mosquitoes and malaria were still not a problem. There were no nets in our hotel rooms.
3-4/6/2015 Nanyuki to Lengetia farm
D42, T2.5, Av14.44, Max57, 41,262 6140
Fantastic cloudless day.
We were up at the normal time, there was hot water as they had been burning wood all night beneath the water tank, a common way of heating water in some of these cheaper guest houses.
On the road in town, we stopped for mendasi and tea. We always take honey into the cafes and pour some into the pocket in the mendasis, it tastes great.
The need for more honey had arisen, so some was bought at the Nakumatt in town. From here, again the road was generally flat and going down in places. It was such a beautiful morning, not a cloud in the sky.
We crossed the equator again just out of Nanyuki, putting us back in the southern hemisphere.
Mount Kenya was showing herself gloriously. It has a jagged peak and spreads greatly at its base, some 60% of Kenyas fresh water comes from here. There was only a minimum shoulder on the road but traffic was light.
Whilst taking photos of the mountain, my reading glasses were left on the back of the bike, riding off and forgetting, they fell off somewhere. Ten km down the road, this was realised. I always carry a spare pair so it was no problems. I had managed to hold onto them for nearly a year and a half so that is good going really.
We soon got to the turnoff at Naro Moru, the road was gravel. In a small village down here we stopped for oranges. Along this road is the nthn boundary of the Solio Game Ranch. Jamie had told us he often sees Rhino near the road. We got up on the track at the roadside, in no time a band of Savannah Baboons was seen near the fence, they slowly moved off into the lowly treed Savannah.
In the distance, we saw Warthogs and a few species of Antelope and larger Oryxs.
As we rode along the fence line, the road dropped into a low area, on the other side of this, in the distance could be seen a group on Rhino and some Buffalo.
We stopped here and took numerous pics. This was quite amazing for us.
There was a green Landcruiser out in the savannah stopping near this group of animals, guests inside were taking pics also.
The arrangement here is if you want to do a safari here, you must stay in their lodge as far as I know.
We headed off up the track a bit. An African lady in a Landcruiser on the gravel road said to Cal why don’t you pay to see the animals. Some people just don’t understand the concept of cycle touring. For us and many others, it is not about doing touristy things. It is about experiencing the people and culture of a country in a more pure way. These touristy type attractions would soon blow out the budget of your average touring cyclist who likes nothing better than to wild camp in some remote spot, not stay in lavish accommodation.
She drove after having had her say.
To our excitement under a small tree almost on the fence line were two mature White Rhino, we couldn’t take enough photos, they were in no hurry to move, but soon sauntered off. These animals are almost prehistoric in appearance when seen up close. They are so much bigger than ever imagined.
From here, we crossed the road to some trees and enjoyed sandwiches and a cup of tea for lunch. A phone call was made to Laurie a friend of Charlies who said he could let us camp on his property for the night.
So about 5km up the road we took a right hand turn down a dirt track. It was some 3km into his farm. It was a wheat and barley growing concern. We arrived at the gate and were greeted by a woman at a watch house who was expecting us.
At the homestead, Sarah, Laurie’s wife greeted us. What a lovely relaxing place this was. The mown lawn at the rear of the single storied house had mature Acacias growing on it.
These offered great shade. Under these, we set up our camp. Before dinner, we wandered to the house and had nuts and beers, before heading back to our little camp to cook pasta and fried potatoes for dinner.
The atmosphere here was idyllic and the temperature just perfect for sleeping.
Laurie was born and bred Kenyan though of British descent. He has family in Australia.
The people off the land we have met in the last few days have been so kind and hospitable to us. We are very, very fortunate to have been their guests. The local knowledge they have provided us has been especially helpful.
4/6/2015 Lengetia Farm
Ben has been spewing up all he was eating, so it was decided to stay another day, Sarah and Laurie were more than happy for us to do so. We were reasonably independent in our little camp under the Acacia on the back lawn. We had water there for washing and really only required some to drink. However, we did use their electricity to charge our phones and laptops. They have a recently installed, stand alone solar system powering the house. Prior to this, a generator provided electricity. In this respect, it was great as they could go about their day without having to cater too much for us.
Sarah was so hospitable, a couple of times a day she would provide tea or coffee for us under the veranda overlooking the back lawn.
Cal and I went for a walk down to the small creek, this took us through a delightful vege garden, full of most staple veges like potatoes, brassicas and greens.
We walked alongside a large paddock where Laurie had been using no tillage practices. Here weed control had been used to keep the soil amongst the stubble clean. As he said, erosion was almost negligible.
The next crop was due to be drilled in September, so now was a time for maintenance and repairs. He said some farmers put in a second crop that is growing now. However, like in Ethiopia the rain can be a little unreliable. He said for him, it makes more sense only sow one crop, and do it well.
Down by the creek was a mixed forest of Eucalypt, Acacias and some Sheoaks.
Late in the afternoon, Laurie had told us we would go for a drive in the game conservatory beyond his wheat paddocks. So, as arranged we took a few cold Tuskers and drove out through the wheat paddocks to the north. His operation was huge in my mind. We crossed through a 1000 acre wheat paddock, All drilled by GPS controlled equipment.
Each year the following crop is sown between the rows of the previous. Out on the field Thompsons Gazelle were grazing, there was also a group of Black Crowned cranes, very large striking birds. He said he just accepts that he has to share the crop with these animals.
We soon got to the perimeter fence of the game reserve. The fence was an elaborate maze of electrified wires, aimed mainly at keeping elephants in the park.
Inside the main fence was another wire with lengths extending from it into the reserve, these strands were heavily laden with electricity, enough to knock us off our feet.
In previous years, he said elephants had breached the original fence. This has since deterred them. Once through the locked gate and within 500m down the track, we came across elephants and baboons down by a creek.
This was absolutely amazing for us. Here were these two huge animals just standing in their natural environment. This is what made it so special. I have seen many elephants but always working or in some kind of unnatural environment. In my enthusiasm, I went to get out of the car, Laurie said it was not a good idea. The big bull was stirring up the ground with one foot.
On the way into the creek area, there were whole areas of damaged and uprooted trees. All done by elephants, they can be very destructive.
There was a troop of baboons down by the creek.
Before getting out of the Acacia forests, we chanced upon a family group of giraffe, they were meandering along grazing on the tree tops that only they are privileged to browse without having to destroy the trees.
I asked myself why these African animals are so fascinatingly loud in their uniqueness among the animal kingdom.
Further on and out onto the open grasslands under a huge African sky that had rich colours of instability across its inverted landscape, was a multitude of free game. Everything from groups of Thompsons Gazelle, isolated Onyx, Water Buck, Zebras, and large herds of buffalo, here too were many other antelope the names of I can’t remember.
Mt Kenya was off on the eastern horizon.
It was all very dramatic. We soon say a family group of elephant, too see these huge roamers against this sky was quite emotional for me. Here was Africa as imagined. We stopped out here in this rich openness for a beer. All around us in the distance were zebra, elephants and antelope all co existing on the rich grasslands.
Cattle also graze out here, they are corralled every night by staff.
Rhino and all the predators are also present in the park. None were seen.
Poaching has been an issue. Recently, due to donations, the staff are now equipped with state of the art weapons and night vision gear. They shoot to kill anyone seen acting out of sorts. On full moon nights, all staff are mobilised, as this light provides the perfect opportunity for poachers who are motivated by money and the Asians who have a misguided penchant for ivory and rhino horn.
Laurie was saying every Rhino in the park has a name and they are continually monitored, if one is not seen for a while they while track it until located. The black rhino are solitary browsers, which can make locating them hard.
Thanks to the vigilance and equipment of the staff, poaching is now an isolated occurrence here.
He said that in Solio, it is still a problem and is often carried out by insiders, in this respect, money is exposed at its most evil. Whilst having lunch outside Solio, the other day, an armed guard was seen walking inside the perimeter.
He said shots could be often heard from their house in the night, possibly indicating another Rhino dying whilst having its horn hacked off its face whilst an Asian sits waiting for its delivery to him at a later time.
Ironically, as the Asian nations become more affluent, their citizens who are able to afford , may never be privileged to see these animals in their natural habitat because of their own customs.
It really is a tragedy that continues to unfold here in Africa. These guys shoot a rhino. Use an axe to hack the horn of it and run like hell to a moto and then transport it to Nairobi where the big wigs hangout, from here it leaves the country.
Once in Asia it is sold for ridiculous amounts to rich idiots who think it has powers. In reality, the only power it has is to render elephants and rhinos extinct. Not to mention, every other exotic animal body part on this planet that these ignorant people desire.
That is my say on this matter.
We finally got out of the park just before 1900, which is when everyone has to be out. On the way, staff were seen with a herd of cattle near a coral.
Laurie was saying the lions often stake out these corrals at night. Sometimes the animals inside will die from asphyxiation due to crushing from fear of these huge cats.
Back at the house, we were still coming to terms with the amazing experience we had just had.
What made it all the more interesting was Laurie’s off the cuff commentary and knowledge of the animals and the lives of the people who try to keep them happy and safe.
The evening was spent in the house where Sarah had a great soup and bread prepared.
We felt so comfortable with them. Our time with them on the farm will always be a deeply etched memory of Kenya in Laikipia, under the aura of Mt Kenya.
Our time with everyone here was a chain of introductions along the back roads, all initiated by the need to find a camp at a farm gate.
Earlier during the day, we had wandered over to Lauries huge machinery compound, heavily secured by a high electrified fence. Here was everything required for a totally self sufficient wheat growing operation.
The plant and machinery was everywhere. Topped off by two state of the art John Deere headers and large silo storage for the grain.
We just wandered about looking at the whole operation. Staff were fabricating timber storage frames, bagging seed wheat, dismantling a shed to make way for more silos, constructing another machinery shed. It was a hive of activity.
I kept thinking how lucky we were to be experiencing all this. It was a firsthand look at the operations of a Kenyan broad acre farming operation.
5/6/2015 The farm to Nyahururu
D69, T4.49, Av14.33, Max66, 41,331, 6209
Clear but fresh, still at 2000m
It was raining when we left the house to go to our tents. The boys decided to sleep in the carriage on the lawn. In the tent was fine for me. Ben was still not that well. He could not keep food down.
In the morning, he said he had spewed last night’s dinner up again.
He said he was ok to ride. He had his porridge for breakfast and kept it down. I was ready and headed over to the kitchen to make sandwiches with ingredients left by Sarah.
In the end just sliced buttered bread was prepared, we had honey and vegemite.
Laurie offered to take us 6km through the farm over some black soils that may still be sticky due to the nights rain.
Our tents were packed wet.
We loaded all the bikes into the tray of the Hilux. We headed out across the property to the west. Mt Kenya could be seen in the clear morning to the east.
On the way over to the gravel road, I had some money to give Laurie to buy a few beers. He would have no part of it. This was the type of person he was. A hardworking, generous, enthusiastic, honest and very likeable man, who loved nothing better than to welcome people into his home and share a good conversation and experiences over a laugh. Sarah possessed similar attributes, both were very interesting and relaxed people to be in the company of.
I feel he and Sarah enjoyed having us, which made our stay even more enjoyable.
We took a few pics and said goodbye. I rode off with warm memories
The road was a good surface of aggregate that could handle rain. We dried the tents along the way. Some 18km we were on the main road west to Nyahururu. Here we stopped at the village to buy bananas and Ben bought water for a change.
He was not feeling well and had spewed up his breakfast further back.
For me it was a worry, he was not eating properly.
I always compare things to travelling in a car. You never leave for a trip with a half full tank of gas. That is exactly what Ben had done.
Eating is important to keep that tank full.
Five kilometres down the tarmac, Ben had literally run out of fuel. He could not go on.
We had the choice of camping in a gravel pit where we stopped or, a better idea was for Ben to hitch a ride to Nyahururu with Cal and I riding.
So, within 5 minutes of hitching Ben got a ride in an old ute.
Cal and I set off at 1430 with 40km to go .
The road surface was that of new ever so smooth asphalt, laid among rolling hills. It was a pleasure to ride either on the shoulder or on the road.
Traffic was not heavy.
We again crossed the equator 10 or so km before the town. Back in the NH again.
We stopped for beans and chapati in the town of Wyumiririe. My thirst saw me down 4 cups of chai.
We finally got into Nyahururu at 1800, it had been a great ride.
We met Ben near the entrance to the downtown. He had found a hotel for us. A local had taken him to check it out. It was a bit rough and ready but at 250 bob a night our cheapest yet in Kenya.
Ben was still not too well but feeling better and not nauseas.
We headed to the supermarket and bought stores for the days ahead.
Dinner saw us eat the normal in a little eatery next to the hotel, which was on a dirt back street in town. It was lodgings that most Kenyans could afford.
Our beds had no pillows, on asking for one, the manager said they are not needed, great reply I thought, there were no complaints on my part.
THE INTERNET IS TO SLOW FOR MANY PICS HERE IN NYAHURURU
Rape seed in an otherwise predominantly green landscape
2600m camping on the home paddock.
heading back down to the road from Jamie and Danielles property. The plains below are home to most African animal in game reserves.
Having a break whilst on the lookout for wildlife.
For me. Africa, in a picture. Let your emotions take you where ever you want to be.
Long may she live!
Camping under the Acacias on Laurie and Sarahs front lawn.
