browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
Picture
These animals are so much bigger than ever imagined.
31/5/2015 Kariani to Meru
D48, T4, Av11.72, Max76, 411134, 6013
Cloudy, late shower, mild
It had rained overnight, so things were still very wet in the morning. We slowly packed up and carried our wet tents on the back of our bikes. Again, it was a day of up hills and straight back down. Traffic had eased a bit, we used the shoulder where possible. Here there were also speed humps on the shoulder in many places, again to deter undertaking.
The hill country continued with rapid descents possible. The countryside was very lush with tea plantations common. Going up one incline, Cal and I stopped and dried our tents out behind the traffic barrier in the long grass. The tropical sun took no time to dry them.
This is an important task following wet nights, so as to ensure a dry tent for the following night and to preserve the fabric. After all, they will be our homes for much of the time in the coming months.
In Kanyekine we stopped for lunch in a busy restaurant selling just the best fresh fried chicken.
About 6km from Meru, we crossed the equator. In Meru, it took ages to find a suitable hotel. Some were over priced and others full. We finally found Palms Lodge up out of town a bit past Nakumatt.
All the while in the city drunks had been hassling us for money and waffling on. However, many people were helpful. We were lucky to find the hotel as rains were imminent and did arrive shortly after settling in.
Going out for dinner, this persistent guy kept following us. In the end he had to be told in no uncertain terms to leave us alone. The boys are getting used to this behaviour and how to deal with it. Often a feeling of rudeness prevails after you have told these kind of people to go away. Really, there is no other way to deal with it.
Keru is also known as the chat capital of Kenya. This combined with alcohol also creates problems with people annoying us.   

 1/6/2015  Meru to Maranio Farm
D31, T3.3, Av8.8, Max46, 41165, 6044
Cloudy, and cold when stopped
The hotel Palms Lodge guesthouse had been a great place to stay. We headed down into town to get some bread and salad veges for lunch on the road we also bought potatoes to fry for the evening as we intended to camp.
It turned out it was a public holiday, no wonder there were so many drunk people hassling us last night.
It was Madaraka Day, this celebrates the day Kenya attained self rule in 1963, preceding full independence from the United Kingdom on the 12 December 1963.
We took the road left at Kirau, this would take us along the edge of the Engare Ndare forest. It was a steady climb up to the small village. It was just so good to be away from traffic, in the forest and hear birds chirping. We had ridden for 6 days in traffic.
There was elephant dung on the road and elephant fencing in places, the guys saw monkeys on the road, what a change.
We stopped for lunch in Kirua, at a great little eatery serving Matoke with meat.  
The road from the turnoff, was a patchy asphalt surface. It steadily climbed. The rural views were impressive. Small villages were encountered much of the way. We could not see Mt Kenya due to the constant cloud cover, at least it was not raining.
Some 10km later, the asphalt came to a halt. The road was very narrow and bumpy.
Ben has really improved his fitness and is now coming close to never being too far behind or us having to let him go ahead, it is great, he is enjoying it a lot more.
We stopped at a farm and got our bladders filled with fresh mountain water. We had intended to camp.
Getting to a turnoff to the forest, we decided to carry on. Come another 6km we came to another road. Here Bens chain decided to break again, this was repaired and the entrance to the road. It turned out to be the driveway to Maranio Farm. There were people at the entrance; we asked them if they knew of a spot to camp.
They said they could ring the owner of the property, a man called Jimmy. I called him and introduced myself. He said it would be fine to camp up on the property for the night.
He told us to wait near the airstrip. By now, it was 1700 and getting very cold as we waited.
Soon a green Landcruiser pickup came down the road. The driver introduced himself as Jamie we laughed, this is what his staff call him.
I had visions of a Kenyan overseer.
Jamie said there was a nice spot to camp in front of his house.
It was a steep climb up to the home, especially at the end of the day.
Once up there, we chatted until near dark and then had to set our tents up. We had been invited back to the house for dinner. Danielle, Jamie’s wife was introduced. We had a couple of beers around a great open fire and enjoyed a great soup accompanied with salad and cheese.
Jamie showed us some routes on the map for the trip west.
It was so nice to have been fed and enjoy the company of this family. We headed back to the tents and fell asleep, looking forward to the sunrise in the morning from this elevated position at 2600m. We had climbed 1000m today.
 




2/6/2015 Maranio farm to Nanyuki
D54, T2.4, Av20.56, Max66, 41,219 6098
Cloudy, late shower, mild
We had been camping in a spot overlooking the plateau below. With expansive views to the east and north. Consequently, the first rays of sun, were received across the site. It had been a fresh night, maybe down to 5 degrees. As usual in the morning, the tents have quite a bit of condensation inside the flies.
We were up before the sun to get some photos and enjoy this great spot.
Being so close to the equator, it warmed things up rapidly and began to dry the tents just as quick.
We had breakfast and went over to see Danielle at the house, she made us tea and we sat on the balcony chatting.
I had some Coartem that had just expired and gave it to them in case they knew someone who may want it.
It took till 0930 before the tents were totally dry. This saves a stop on route. Jamie came back from the farm, we said goodbye and headed off down the track.
It had been a great unexpected stay with this lovely hospitable family who had given us an insight into this kind of life in Kenya.
A privileged, though hard working  life, one that is not as predictable as the same kind of life in our respective countries. Making it far more interesting and adventurous.
For example, having a road accident and you injure someone, in most cases, regardless of circumstances you are in the wrong, or having to delicately handle inter tribal relations with staff and communities.
I feel all these coupled with other social and political situations would make for an exciting and challenging life here on the land in Kenya.
Ben and I both said it felt odd to have a Kenyan man bring us the cups of tea on a tray to the table.
Their property had 100 staff, who have houses in an area below their home, some had been on the property for 40 years. He said much time is spent on keeping everyone happy and at the same time making it worthwhile employing so many people.
Importantly, he said there is a major cultural difference, that makes this kind of arrangement possible.
I can’t begin to imagine the logistics of trying to manage 100 staff on a property in Australia. Especially, if they were living on site.
He said that the arrangement offers stability to their lives. A few have left for better job prospects only to find the term of employment come to an end after sometime, most have come back to look for work.
He went onto say that he gets great pleasure from seeing his staff move onto do things that improve their lives, but the training he provides to his them really needs their service to be for a minimum of five years.
Having had a small business and also trained staff, I can understand this exactly.
Jamie also said, he is continually looking at new management practices to stay competitive, no tillage cropping is being practiced now.
Over the last few days, we have spent time with Kenyans from many walks of life and shared time in their homes. For us it has been such a privilege to get an insight into Kenyan life.
It was almost 1.5 km down to the gate. The plateau below is sprinkled with game ranches, down here Rhinos and most of the other animals graze with cattle.
Half an hour heading towards the main road and down to Nanyuki, the guys were up ahead talking to a guy in a Landcruiser pickup.
Charlie was the owner of the property known as Kisima Farm.
He was a great guy with a sense of humour, we sat on the side of the dirt road and chatted for an hour, he then took us to his little chip shop and bought us a plate of freshly cooked potato chip. They were fantastic. His little shop is just past the intersection on the main road to Nanyuki. It is called Chuckys chips. If you are ever this way, make a stop for a plate of these excellent fries.
From here, the road was generally downhill. Many large plastic tunnel houses were seen, all the way to Timau. Inside these were flowers, and in most cases roses for the fresh European market. This area has been discovered, as one of the best sites in the world for growing roses in tunnel houses.
Almost all the way to Nanyuki was downhill. It most certainly payback for all the hard work coming up from Nairobi. Once in Nanyuki, we stopped at the Nackumatt and bought a few things. We then hunted for a guesthouse/hotel. Charlie had given us the name of a man who could help.
Anyway, after a long hunt we found a reasonably priced place, the Nyahururu Horizon Hotel.
A favourite on the streets is fresh slices of sweet watermelon for 10 or 20 bob, we found a guy who was selling just the sweetest slices and had a few each.  
I needed to repair a front pannier that had ripped, again the glue came in very handy, my panniers are succumbing to the sunlight degradation over time.
Again, we had a meal of pork in a local eatery. We commented on how easy the ride had been. Though, we all got sunburnt.
We had come down from 2600 to about 1905m, so mosquitoes and malaria were still not a problem. There were no nets in our hotel rooms.

3-4/6/2015  Nanyuki to Lengetia farm
D42, T2.5, Av14.44, Max57, 41,262 6140
Fantastic cloudless day.
We were up at the normal time, there was hot water as they had been burning wood all night beneath the water tank, a common way of heating water in some of these cheaper guest houses.
On the road in town, we stopped for mendasi and tea. We always take honey into the cafes and pour some into the pocket in the mendasis, it tastes great.
The need for more honey had arisen, so some was bought at the Nakumatt in town. From here, again the road was generally flat and going down in places. It was such a beautiful morning, not a cloud in the sky.
We crossed the equator again just out of Nanyuki, putting us back in the southern hemisphere.
Mount Kenya was showing herself gloriously. It has a jagged peak and spreads greatly at its base, some 60% of Kenyas fresh water comes from here. There was only a minimum shoulder on the road but traffic was light.
Whilst taking photos of the mountain, my reading glasses were left on the back of the bike, riding off and forgetting, they fell off somewhere. Ten km down the road, this was realised. I always carry a spare pair so it was no problems. I had managed to hold onto them for nearly a year and a half so that is good going really.
We soon got to the turnoff at Naro Moru, the road was gravel. In a small village down here we stopped for oranges. Along this road is the nthn boundary of the Solio Game Ranch. Jamie had told us he often sees Rhino near the road. We got up on the track at the roadside, in no time a band of Savannah Baboons was seen near the fence, they slowly moved off into the lowly treed Savannah.
In the distance, we saw Warthogs and a few species of Antelope and larger Oryxs.
 As we rode along the fence line, the road dropped into a  low area, on the other side of this, in the distance could be seen a group on Rhino and some Buffalo.
We stopped here and took numerous pics. This was quite amazing for us.
There was a green Landcruiser out in the savannah stopping near this group of animals, guests inside were taking pics also.
The arrangement here is if you want to do a safari here, you must stay in their lodge as far as I know.
We headed off up the track a bit. An African lady in a Landcruiser on the gravel road said to Cal why don’t you pay to see the animals. Some people just don’t understand the concept of cycle touring. For us and many others, it is not about doing touristy things. It is about experiencing the people and culture of a country in a more pure way. These touristy type attractions would soon blow out the budget of your average touring cyclist who likes nothing better than to wild camp in some remote spot, not stay in lavish accommodation.
She drove after having had her say.
To our excitement under a small tree almost on the fence line were two mature White Rhino, we couldn’t take enough photos, they were in no hurry to move, but soon sauntered off. These animals are almost prehistoric in appearance when seen up close. They are so much bigger than ever imagined.
From here, we crossed the road to some trees and enjoyed sandwiches and a cup of tea for lunch. A phone call was made to Laurie a friend of Charlies who said he could let us camp on his property for the night.
So about 5km up the road we took a right hand turn down a dirt track. It was some 3km into his farm. It was a wheat and barley growing concern. We arrived at the gate and were greeted by a woman at a watch house who was expecting us.
At the homestead, Sarah, Laurie’s wife greeted us. What a lovely relaxing place this was. The mown lawn at the rear of the single storied house had mature Acacias growing on it.
These offered great shade. Under these, we set up our camp. Before dinner, we wandered to the house and had nuts and beers, before heading back to our little camp to cook pasta and fried potatoes for dinner.
The atmosphere here was idyllic and the temperature just perfect for sleeping.
Laurie was born and bred Kenyan though of British descent. He has family in Australia.
The people off the land we have met in the last few days have been so kind and hospitable to us. We are very, very fortunate to have been their guests. The local knowledge they have provided us  has been especially helpful.
4/6/2015 Lengetia Farm
Ben has been spewing up all he was eating, so it was decided to stay another day, Sarah and Laurie were more than happy for us to do so. We were reasonably independent in our little camp under the Acacia on the back lawn. We had water there for washing and really only required some to drink. However, we did use their electricity to charge our phones and laptops. They have a recently installed, stand alone solar system powering the house. Prior to this, a generator provided electricity. In this respect, it was great as they could go about their day without having to cater too much for us.
Sarah was so hospitable, a couple of times a day she would provide tea or coffee for us under the veranda overlooking the back lawn.
 
Cal and I went for a walk down to the small creek, this took us through a delightful vege garden, full of most staple veges like potatoes, brassicas and greens.
We walked alongside a large paddock where Laurie had been using no tillage practices. Here weed control had been used to keep the soil amongst the stubble clean. As he said, erosion was almost negligible.
The next crop was due to be drilled in September, so now was a time for maintenance and repairs. He said some farmers put in a second crop that is growing now. However, like in Ethiopia the rain can be a little unreliable. He said for him, it makes more sense only sow one crop, and do it well.
Down by the creek was a mixed forest of Eucalypt, Acacias and some Sheoaks.
Late in the afternoon, Laurie had told us we would go for a drive in the game conservatory beyond his wheat paddocks. So, as arranged we took a few cold Tuskers and drove out through the wheat paddocks to the north. His operation was huge in my mind. We crossed through a 1000 acre wheat paddock, All drilled by GPS controlled equipment.
Each year the following crop is sown between the rows of the previous. Out on the field Thompsons Gazelle were grazing, there was also a group of Black Crowned cranes, very large striking birds. He said he just accepts that he has to share the crop with these animals.
We soon got to the perimeter fence of the game reserve. The fence was an elaborate maze of electrified wires, aimed mainly at keeping elephants in the park.
Inside the main fence was another wire with lengths extending from it into the reserve, these strands were heavily laden with electricity, enough to knock us off our feet.
In previous years, he said elephants had breached the original fence. This has since deterred them. Once through the locked gate and within 500m down the track,  we came across elephants and baboons down by a creek.
This was absolutely amazing for us. Here were these two huge animals just standing  in their natural environment. This is what made it so special. I have seen many elephants but always working or in some kind of unnatural environment. In my enthusiasm, I went to get out of the car, Laurie said it was not a good idea. The big bull was stirring up the ground with one foot.
On the way into the creek area, there were  whole areas of damaged and uprooted trees. All done by elephants, they can be very destructive.
There was a troop of baboons down by the creek.
Before getting out of the Acacia forests, we chanced upon a family group of giraffe, they were meandering along grazing on the tree tops that only they are privileged to browse without having to destroy the trees.
I asked myself why these African animals are so fascinatingly loud in their uniqueness among the animal kingdom.

Further on and out onto the open grasslands under a huge African sky that had rich colours of instability across its inverted landscape, was a multitude of free game. Everything from groups of Thompsons Gazelle, isolated Onyx, Water Buck, Zebras, and large herds of buffalo, here too were many other antelope the names of I can’t remember.
Mt Kenya was off on the eastern horizon.
It was all very dramatic. We soon say a family group of elephant, too see these huge roamers against this sky was quite emotional for me. Here was Africa as imagined. We stopped out here in this rich openness for a beer. All around us in the distance were zebra, elephants and antelope all co existing on the rich grasslands.
Cattle also graze out here, they are corralled every night by staff.
Rhino and all the predators are also present in the park. None were seen.
Poaching has been an issue. Recently, due to donations, the staff are now equipped with state of the art weapons and night vision gear. They shoot to kill anyone seen acting out of sorts. On full moon nights, all staff are mobilised, as this light provides the perfect opportunity for poachers who are motivated by money and the Asians who have a misguided penchant for ivory and rhino horn.
Laurie was saying every Rhino in the park has a name and they are continually monitored, if one is not seen for a while they while track it until located. The black rhino are solitary browsers, which can make locating them hard.
Thanks to the vigilance and equipment of the staff, poaching is now an isolated occurrence here.
He said that in Solio, it is still a problem and is often carried out by insiders, in this respect, money is exposed at its most evil. Whilst having lunch outside Solio, the other day, an armed guard was seen walking inside the perimeter.
He said shots could be often heard from their house in the night, possibly indicating another Rhino dying whilst having its horn hacked off its face whilst an Asian sits waiting for its delivery to him at a later time.
Ironically, as the Asian nations become more affluent, their citizens who are able to afford , may never be privileged to see these animals in their natural habitat because of their own customs.
It really is a tragedy that continues to unfold here in Africa. These guys shoot a rhino. Use an axe to hack the horn of it and run like hell to a moto and then transport it to Nairobi where the big wigs hangout, from here it leaves the country.
Once in Asia it is sold for ridiculous amounts to rich idiots who think it has powers. In reality, the only power it has is to render elephants and rhinos extinct. Not to mention, every other exotic animal body part on this planet that these ignorant people desire.
That is my say on this matter.
We finally got out of the park just before 1900, which is when everyone has to be out. On the way, staff were seen with a herd of cattle near a coral.
Laurie was saying the lions often stake out these corrals at night. Sometimes the animals inside will die from asphyxiation due to crushing from fear of these huge cats.
Back at the house, we were still coming to terms with the amazing experience we had just had.
What made it all the more interesting was Laurie’s off the cuff commentary and knowledge of the animals and the lives of the people who try to keep them happy and safe.
The evening was spent in the house where Sarah had a great soup and bread prepared.
We felt so comfortable with them. Our time with them on the farm will always be a deeply etched memory of Kenya in Laikipia, under the aura of Mt Kenya.
Our time with everyone here was a chain of introductions along the back roads, all initiated by the need to find a camp at a farm gate.
Earlier during the day, we had wandered over to Lauries huge machinery compound, heavily secured by a high electrified fence. Here was everything required for a totally self sufficient wheat growing operation.
The plant and machinery was everywhere. Topped off by two state of the art John Deere headers and  large silo storage for the grain.
We just wandered about looking at the whole operation. Staff were fabricating timber storage frames, bagging seed wheat, dismantling a shed to make way for more silos, constructing another machinery shed. It was a hive of activity.
I kept thinking how lucky we were to be experiencing all this. It was a firsthand look at the operations of a Kenyan broad acre farming operation.

5/6/2015 The farm to Nyahururu
D69, T4.49, Av14.33, Max66, 41,331, 6209
Clear but fresh, still at 2000m
It was raining when we left the house to go to our tents. The boys decided to sleep in the carriage on the lawn. In the tent was fine for me. Ben was still not that well. He could not keep food down.
In the morning, he said he had spewed last night’s dinner up again.
He said he was ok to ride. He had his porridge for breakfast and kept it down. I was ready and headed over to the kitchen to make sandwiches with ingredients left by Sarah.
In the end just sliced buttered bread was prepared, we had honey and vegemite.
Laurie offered to take us 6km through the farm over some black soils that may still be sticky due to the nights rain.
Our tents were packed wet.
We loaded all the bikes into the tray of the Hilux. We headed out across the property to the west. Mt Kenya could be seen in the clear morning to the east.
On the way over to the gravel road, I had some money to give  Laurie to buy a few beers. He would have no part of it. This was the type of person he was. A hardworking, generous, enthusiastic, honest and very likeable man, who loved nothing better than to welcome people into his home and share a good conversation and experiences over a laugh. Sarah possessed similar attributes, both were very interesting and relaxed people to be in the company of.
I feel he and Sarah enjoyed having us, which made our stay even more enjoyable.
We took a few pics and said goodbye. I rode off with warm memories
The road was a good surface of aggregate that could handle rain. We dried the tents along the way. Some 18km we were on the main road west to Nyahururu. Here we stopped at the village to buy bananas and Ben bought water for a change.
He was not feeling well and had spewed up his breakfast further back.
For me it was a worry, he was not eating properly.
I always compare things to travelling in a car. You never leave for a trip with a half full tank of gas. That is exactly what Ben had done.
Eating is important to keep that tank full.
Five kilometres down the tarmac, Ben had literally run out of fuel. He could not go on.
We had the choice of camping in a gravel pit where we stopped or, a better idea was for Ben to hitch a ride to Nyahururu with Cal and I riding.
So, within 5 minutes of hitching Ben got a ride in an old ute.
Cal and I set off at 1430 with 40km to go .
 The road surface was that of new ever so smooth asphalt, laid among rolling hills. It was a pleasure to ride either on the shoulder or on the road.
Traffic was not heavy.
We again crossed the equator 10 or so km before the town. Back in the NH again.
We stopped for beans and chapati in the town of Wyumiririe. My thirst saw me down 4 cups of chai.
We finally got into Nyahururu at 1800, it had been a great ride.
We met Ben near the entrance to the downtown. He had found a hotel for us. A local had taken him to check it out. It was a bit rough and ready but at 250 bob a night our cheapest yet in Kenya.
Ben was still not too well but feeling better and not nauseas.
We headed to the supermarket and bought stores for the days ahead.
Dinner saw us eat the normal in a little eatery next to the hotel, which was on a dirt back street in town. It was lodgings that most Kenyans could afford.
Our beds had no pillows, on asking for one, the manager said they are not needed, great reply I thought, there were no complaints on my part.
THE INTERNET IS TO SLOW FOR MANY PICS HERE IN NYAHURURU

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Rape seed in an otherwise predominantly green landscape
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2600m camping on the home paddock.
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heading back down to the road from Jamie and Danielles property. The plains below are home to most African animal in game reserves.
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Having a break whilst on the lookout for wildlife.
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For me. Africa, in a picture. Let your emotions take you where ever you want to be. Long may she live!
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Camping under the Acacias on Laurie and Sarahs front lawn.
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