17/10/2013 San Rafael to Salinas de Diamante
D72, T4.3/6, Av15.85, Max57, Tot20754, 10954
Perfect day, lovely evening
A second night was had in San Rafael, the hostal Tierrasoles was a great relaxing place just to hang out. The girls at reception were great. Melissa was enjoyable to chat to and Ricardo always helpful.
He asked me to join his girlfriend and a few other people for an asado that night.
A good sleep was enjoyed for a few hours in the afternoon. After which I wandered into town with my laptop, an electrical storm last night had taken out the net at the hostal.
Keeping in tradition with life here the meat did not come off the BBQ till 2300. We were still eating and drinking at 0100 in the morning and all not to tired.
Once again the meat was covered in salt before cooking. This gives the skin such a lovely moreish flavour.
Pumpkin and potatoes were also cooked over the coals. A special wood named leña is sold here for these BBQ’s.
The next day, not rising too early, a puncture was repaired. A good shower taken and the complimentary breakfast enjoyed.
I finally got away at 1230, bought some bread and meandered off through town.
It was nice to get back out on roads with little traffic.
Vineyards were passed, so to, were a few road cyclists training and a range was climbed.
Time was spent chatting with people from BA who were travelling Ruta 40. With 11,000,000 plus people in BA, many people on the road are from there.
It was a great cruise to the bottom.
Near the turnoff to El Nilhuil, another cyclist was seen in the distance sitting on the opposite side of the road.
Pulling over, we chatted for some time. She was heading south also.
We rode onto the Kiosco at the turnoff to El Nihuil and sat down enjoying drinks. The girl there had a visitors book that cyclists filled in, we did so.
She kindly made a phone call to the border people to see if Paso Del Planchón was open, it was presently closed to all traffic because of snow.
This has changed my plans greatly.
Now I have to go down to Paso de Pino Hachado, some 600km south of Santiago, before crossing into Chile to meet up with my son, Callum in November.
Dorothy and I headed off from here. The ride was gently downhill. The afternoon was magic. We ambled along riding abreast on the quiet road chatting about many things.
She has ridden around the world, this is her second time.
It was a privilege to hear her stories.
Needless to say, she was interesting company and had some great recollections from other countries.
Coming to Salina de Diamante, where a salt extraction company was operating we pulled in.
It was 1630 and looked a great place to camp overlooking the salar.
The guys said it was fine to stop for the night.
Storm cells were occasionally lighting the sky up on the far side of the salar.
It was a great location with broad vistas. As the wind died down it got even more pleasant.
The workers asked us over for a wine which we which was enjoyed. They work 10 days straight before going home to San Rafael for a break.
All the salt extracted here all ends up as table salt.
Dorothy and I chatted over our respective dinners and were both in our tents by 2100.
18/10/2013 Salinas de Diamante to 15km nth Malargue ,camping
D108, T6/ 8, Av16.48, Max38, Tot20862, 11062
Overcast at times though warm
There was a light dew on the tents, though, this soon dried of in the early morning sun which arrived in a colourful display of oranges across the salar.
We ate, packed, thanked the men and were on the road at about 0900.
The road was literally dead straight for miles.
Having been at the salar, they are always in the lowest spots. There was an almost unnoticeable climb for miles.
We rode alongside each other and chatted almost all the way till we stopped for lunch some 50km on.
At one point a Tarantula was make a near fatal road crossing.
He was huge, hairy and able to move rapidly when frightened.
Ricardo had said to watch out for them.
Over lunch we both commented on how the long stretch had been a breeze due to our constant conversation.
Getting to El Sosneado, we pulled in at the Parador come kiosco there. A guy named Miguel owned it, a friend of Ricardos at San Rafael.
He was a bit of a character.
He ran horse treks in summer up into the Andes to a plane crash site.
The one where the survivors had to consume the flesh of dead in order to remain alive.
Dorothy suggested we buy a bottle of wine for the night.
After we paid for it, she headed out to her bike.
The wine was still on the counter. It was a not so subtle way of telling me “It was my idea, you carry it”.
We laughed about it. Near the turnoff to Paso del Planchon we helped some people push their car up a driveway onto the road so they could push start it.
The battery was flat.
Once on the highway, it still wouldn’t start, we agreed it was more than a flat battery.
We bade farewell and wished them luck.
Riding was easy on the flat slightly, downhill run to Malargue.
Not wanting to get there tonight we found a camping spot in a paddock, near a creek that was running brown from silt.
Gauchos were moving cattle into the creek paddock for the night.
The wine and a good chat were enjoyed.
Dorothy is a wealth of information about bike routes all over the world, she has ridden many.
It was an inspiration to me, hearing her stories over the Malbec and Mate.
She has ridden most of Australia. Cape York, the Nullabor Plain, Birdsville Track to name a few.
She said even in the most remote places the grey nomads were never far away. Nearly always in groups, though always friendly. Though on occasions just annoying.
19/10/2013 To Malargue
D14, T30min, Av17, Max25, Tot20876, 11076
Cool morning, warmed rapidly, windy afternoon, with the Zonda
I had half a dozen eggs from San Rafael, after two days, an omelette was the best place for these.
So, in our paddock, with a few bee hives and surrounded by Poplar trees in new leaf, we enjoyed coffee, porridge and an omelette.
It was so nice to have been camping in an area with some plants that resembled grass and without thorns everywhere.
We were greeted by a bunch of guys who had greyhound dogs, as pets not for racing.
Arriving in Malarque, we booked into the Kathmandu hostal.
Like San Rafael, everything is dead quiet, we had a dormitory to ourselves.
Some washing was done and a bit of personal hygiene attended to, along with a catch up of emails etc.
Malarque is a ski town, with hire shops and sports clothing shops everywhere.
The main street was lined with shops where people on holiday just wander past aimlessly looking for something they really don’t need to buy, or use the excuse that it was on sale to justify such a purchase.
It was very similar to Methven, near Mt Hutt in New Zealand with the mountains always visible down each street, that ran west of the north south oriented main street.
A bike shop selling mountain bikes for 6 to 8 thousand dollars Australian was visited.
The town is located near some of the most expensive ski fields in Argentina, say no more.
We got some supplies, at Vea.
Getting to the checkout, it was found they did not supply plastic bags.
So here we were with quite a bit of food and no bags.
Taking our trolleys outside, discovering there was no way to get this stuff back to the hostal.
I slipped back inside and peeled a heap of bags off a roll in fruit and veges.
These sufficed after we tied them up to provide handles.
Back at the hostal we cooked chicken in the oven and had a heap of blanched greens. Over a cask of wine.
Dorothys blog is http://dorofleck.wordpress.com/
D72, T4.3/6, Av15.85, Max57, Tot20754, 10954
Perfect day, lovely evening
A second night was had in San Rafael, the hostal Tierrasoles was a great relaxing place just to hang out. The girls at reception were great. Melissa was enjoyable to chat to and Ricardo always helpful.
He asked me to join his girlfriend and a few other people for an asado that night.
A good sleep was enjoyed for a few hours in the afternoon. After which I wandered into town with my laptop, an electrical storm last night had taken out the net at the hostal.
Keeping in tradition with life here the meat did not come off the BBQ till 2300. We were still eating and drinking at 0100 in the morning and all not to tired.
Once again the meat was covered in salt before cooking. This gives the skin such a lovely moreish flavour.
Pumpkin and potatoes were also cooked over the coals. A special wood named leña is sold here for these BBQ’s.
The next day, not rising too early, a puncture was repaired. A good shower taken and the complimentary breakfast enjoyed.
I finally got away at 1230, bought some bread and meandered off through town.
It was nice to get back out on roads with little traffic.
Vineyards were passed, so to, were a few road cyclists training and a range was climbed.
Time was spent chatting with people from BA who were travelling Ruta 40. With 11,000,000 plus people in BA, many people on the road are from there.
It was a great cruise to the bottom.
Near the turnoff to El Nilhuil, another cyclist was seen in the distance sitting on the opposite side of the road.
Pulling over, we chatted for some time. She was heading south also.
We rode onto the Kiosco at the turnoff to El Nihuil and sat down enjoying drinks. The girl there had a visitors book that cyclists filled in, we did so.
She kindly made a phone call to the border people to see if Paso Del Planchón was open, it was presently closed to all traffic because of snow.
This has changed my plans greatly.
Now I have to go down to Paso de Pino Hachado, some 600km south of Santiago, before crossing into Chile to meet up with my son, Callum in November.
Dorothy and I headed off from here. The ride was gently downhill. The afternoon was magic. We ambled along riding abreast on the quiet road chatting about many things.
She has ridden around the world, this is her second time.
It was a privilege to hear her stories.
Needless to say, she was interesting company and had some great recollections from other countries.
Coming to Salina de Diamante, where a salt extraction company was operating we pulled in.
It was 1630 and looked a great place to camp overlooking the salar.
The guys said it was fine to stop for the night.
Storm cells were occasionally lighting the sky up on the far side of the salar.
It was a great location with broad vistas. As the wind died down it got even more pleasant.
The workers asked us over for a wine which we which was enjoyed. They work 10 days straight before going home to San Rafael for a break.
All the salt extracted here all ends up as table salt.
Dorothy and I chatted over our respective dinners and were both in our tents by 2100.
18/10/2013 Salinas de Diamante to 15km nth Malargue ,camping
D108, T6/ 8, Av16.48, Max38, Tot20862, 11062
Overcast at times though warm
There was a light dew on the tents, though, this soon dried of in the early morning sun which arrived in a colourful display of oranges across the salar.
We ate, packed, thanked the men and were on the road at about 0900.
The road was literally dead straight for miles.
Having been at the salar, they are always in the lowest spots. There was an almost unnoticeable climb for miles.
We rode alongside each other and chatted almost all the way till we stopped for lunch some 50km on.
At one point a Tarantula was make a near fatal road crossing.
He was huge, hairy and able to move rapidly when frightened.
Ricardo had said to watch out for them.
Over lunch we both commented on how the long stretch had been a breeze due to our constant conversation.
Getting to El Sosneado, we pulled in at the Parador come kiosco there. A guy named Miguel owned it, a friend of Ricardos at San Rafael.
He was a bit of a character.
He ran horse treks in summer up into the Andes to a plane crash site.
The one where the survivors had to consume the flesh of dead in order to remain alive.
Dorothy suggested we buy a bottle of wine for the night.
After we paid for it, she headed out to her bike.
The wine was still on the counter. It was a not so subtle way of telling me “It was my idea, you carry it”.
We laughed about it. Near the turnoff to Paso del Planchon we helped some people push their car up a driveway onto the road so they could push start it.
The battery was flat.
Once on the highway, it still wouldn’t start, we agreed it was more than a flat battery.
We bade farewell and wished them luck.
Riding was easy on the flat slightly, downhill run to Malargue.
Not wanting to get there tonight we found a camping spot in a paddock, near a creek that was running brown from silt.
Gauchos were moving cattle into the creek paddock for the night.
The wine and a good chat were enjoyed.
Dorothy is a wealth of information about bike routes all over the world, she has ridden many.
It was an inspiration to me, hearing her stories over the Malbec and Mate.
She has ridden most of Australia. Cape York, the Nullabor Plain, Birdsville Track to name a few.
She said even in the most remote places the grey nomads were never far away. Nearly always in groups, though always friendly. Though on occasions just annoying.
19/10/2013 To Malargue
D14, T30min, Av17, Max25, Tot20876, 11076
Cool morning, warmed rapidly, windy afternoon, with the Zonda
I had half a dozen eggs from San Rafael, after two days, an omelette was the best place for these.
So, in our paddock, with a few bee hives and surrounded by Poplar trees in new leaf, we enjoyed coffee, porridge and an omelette.
It was so nice to have been camping in an area with some plants that resembled grass and without thorns everywhere.
We were greeted by a bunch of guys who had greyhound dogs, as pets not for racing.
Arriving in Malarque, we booked into the Kathmandu hostal.
Like San Rafael, everything is dead quiet, we had a dormitory to ourselves.
Some washing was done and a bit of personal hygiene attended to, along with a catch up of emails etc.
Malarque is a ski town, with hire shops and sports clothing shops everywhere.
The main street was lined with shops where people on holiday just wander past aimlessly looking for something they really don’t need to buy, or use the excuse that it was on sale to justify such a purchase.
It was very similar to Methven, near Mt Hutt in New Zealand with the mountains always visible down each street, that ran west of the north south oriented main street.
A bike shop selling mountain bikes for 6 to 8 thousand dollars Australian was visited.
The town is located near some of the most expensive ski fields in Argentina, say no more.
We got some supplies, at Vea.
Getting to the checkout, it was found they did not supply plastic bags.
So here we were with quite a bit of food and no bags.
Taking our trolleys outside, discovering there was no way to get this stuff back to the hostal.
I slipped back inside and peeled a heap of bags off a roll in fruit and veges.
These sufficed after we tied them up to provide handles.
Back at the hostal we cooked chicken in the oven and had a heap of blanched greens. Over a cask of wine.
Dorothys blog is http://dorofleck.wordpress.com/
 Ricardo, un buen hombre, el dueno Hostal Tierrasoles, San Rafael.
 San Rafael en la distancia
 Yacimiento cerca El Sosneado
|
 un hostal excelente
 Salinas de Damente, Los Andes detrás
 Muy confortable, no arena a espinas
|