13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso

14/6/2014 Bonito to Agua Do Miranda

D77, T7, Av13.8, max44, 28543, 2983

Sunny , 28

Once again Cilla and Enio had put on another big complimentary breakfast . Plenty was eaten, as a day on gravel roads was ahead of me.

Four eggs were boiled in the kitchen.

Like almost every hospedaje or in Brazil Pousada, these people were great to me. I enjoyed the last part of the Brazil game with them the first half was spent in town.

Every time the BR team got a goal the town came alive with fireworks. There were not too many going off in the first half.

The Pourada had been super comfortable and had a lot of room inside.

They have recently just bought it and are improving it greatly.

If you ever find yourself in Bonito, Mato Grosso Do Sul, I would recommend staying here. It can only get better as they improve things. Their website is [email protected]

On the road about 1030, bread was bought in town and the gravel road to Anastácio was taken.

The day was perfect, little wind and no cloud.

The surface and gravel incorporated so it really wasn’t a problem. It was rough in places so would test my newly trued rear wheel.

The vegetation was more a dry type of forest with spiky bromeliads growing on the floor. Where this bush did not exist was pastureland.

It was great to be riding on this little used road. It was a case of riding from one water shed to the next. Some of the climbs up from the wooden particularly steep. Good practise I thought.

All the streams had a slight milky appearance. This had been seen many times before. Household wastewater was present in their flow.

Stopping at Moro Grande, just a little pool house in the bush, the owner told me not to drink the water from the streams. I topped up on some bottled sugar mix he had and filled my water bottles. It was perfect timing as my water was almost finished. I sat here quite worn out and sweaty for half an hour.

Hunger was not a problem, the big breakfast had seen to that.

By now the time was 1400, as the sun gets lower in the sky it becomes so much more pleasant.

All day no more than 10 cars and trucks had been encountered, it was a great change.

Nearing 1700, a spot on the side of the road was found that suited camping. Once again I got busted by a passing motorcyclist. I had to abandon any thoughts of camping here.

Riding on a few km, a small community was arrived at. None of these places are on my map.

Sometimes it is great as you never know just when they will pop up.

Here at the church, on top of a high spot there was a guy on his phone. Once his conversation was finished I asked if I could camp at the rear of the church. It was all good . Again, I had a shelter to camp under. As always, there was a light show off in the distance, as a storm cell was moving around. This one was heading my way.

Later some members of the church work crew turned up . They said it was fine.

There was a bench and toilet plus running water. Dinner was fresh buns and mashed boiled egg.

Later the cell passed over with a small amount of rain. I was so fortunate to be under cover. A dry tent would be packed in the morning.

The temperature is still about 22 degrees at night and sticky .

Though it can still change and get cold .My rear wheel had survived a day of rough riding, at times quite fast on descents down to the small creeks.

It was nice to know I have a good supply of spare spokes.

I have a couple of days left on the antibiotics and all wounds have cleaned up. Though a cough with phlegm still persists. In short, my health is great but could be a little better.

14/6/2014 Aguas Do Miranda to 20km nth of Aquiduana

D77, T7, Av15.37, Max 37 28611, 3060

Fine, camping

Having all my gear dry was great, a couple of guys came up for a chat. I got the Chile Aussie score, not good for OZ.

Once packed and fed, it was straight out of the pueblito. The Rio Miranda was just out of town, a large brown river. Men were anchored midstream with a small dredging set up on a boat. There were other fishing boats tied to the shore upstream.

Among other species, Paku is caught commercially in the rivers here.

It is a very popular eating fish.

All creeks were still milky and the scenery littered with Cocos palms and cattle.

Pretty soon I was at the intersection with highway 419 and had a pleasant ride on brand new asphalt into Aquidauana.

Here I stocked up on food for the 200 plus km trip through to Rio Verde Do Mato Grosso, all on gravel.

Fresh green beans and broccoli were among the items. Persimmon are in season here, They are eaten crisp. These are enjoyed alot.

Further into town I found a mall type place where they were serviced fried food, hard to find anything else at the moment.

There appears to be a lot of good bodies being laid to waste with the amount of fried fast food on offering.

My weight has stayed constant at around 70kg, due to a daily riding average of somewhere only around 35km and eating quantities of this fried food. It is so nice.

Without exercise, it would be a no go zone from a dietary point of view.

I sat down here for a feed of, you guessed it, empanadas.

Whilst eating a guy, smartly dressed though casual, of about 35 years came and introduced himself. Rhobson, had a newspaper here in Aquidauana and asked if he could interview me.

Not a problem was my reply. His Spanish was good so we could talk freely.

We spent an hour together. He took a few photos.

He was well travelled here in Brazil, informing me of lots of options on the road ahead.

He and friends had taken a 4x4 through the Amazon.

Particularly the use of boats on the Amazon.

His newspaper is the “O Pantaneiro”. I will post a copy of the article should it get printed.

www.O PANTANEIRO.com.br

It took a while and some interpretation to find my way from town .Ruta 419 is a gravel road that skirts the eastern edge of the Pantanal.

Once on it. The surface was loose sand and dust.

Many old Mercs were moving stock on this road with is a Federal road servicing the many Fazendas on its length.

The farms on my left extend deep into the Pantanal. It is grazed during the dry season.

The road reserve on this route is very wide and bushy, there are spots to camp everywhere .So I had no problems in riding till almost dark.

When the time arose to stop. A spot was found where I could get my bike down off the road.

This road reserve also acts as a carriage way when cattle are being moved along its length. So there were tracks all through this bush.

A spot had to be found that was concealed enough to hide my stove flame, especially whilst it was priming.

There were a large number of young wax palms in the bush.

The fronds of some were cut so as to further conceal my location from passing traffic.

I was some 50m in from the road. Traffic was light but being spotted was not on.

All worked out well.

This whole landscape is now altered by cattle, their smell is everywhere, all water holes are muddy and their waste is all over the road in places.

Dinner was blanched beans and Broccoli. It felt so good to finish the day with this kind of food washed down with hot chocolate.

The night tempsare now a pleasant 20 degrees.

There were no other footprints around other than cows so I was not concerned with having any overnight visitors.

15/6/2014 nth Aquidauana to a bush camp

D80, T7, Av14.77, Max34, 28,691, 3140

Fine, 26 degrees, camping

Upon waking , though last nights meals was great, it did not fill me too much, hence I was very hungry.

Four bread rolls were eaten along with the porridge.

My tent was dry due to the heavy canopy above me. Another fine day was on the way.

Once packed and out on the road, with alot of difficulty, the little batter I had wheeled the bike down was covered in round pebbles, on two occasions I was flat on my side.

It was a case of digging foot holds to get the laden bike out.

Water is now being carried in greater quantities.

On my map, the road is shown as getting very close to the edge of the wet lands.

Sure enough, some 15km down the road water and swamp lands were on both sides at times. Though always more common to my left.

This country goes all the way through the Pantanal to Bolivia.

Riding through here was a delight. There was lots of bird life, many in the trees on the roadside. Storks were patiently wading in shallows.

Some huge splashing was heard as I passed. At on watered area a Capivara was seen wading around. He quietly headed across the waters out of sight when seeing me.

It was a slow trip through here. I was fascinated by this wilderness of water and all the plants that had the ability to grow with wet feet.

At one point, a giant stork was seen in a wet lush green low area.

My new camera is great for zoom shots though very hard to hold still when at full focal lenth. Something like 500mm in a compact, unreal, though little light can get into the lens. The lense only has a f stop of 6.5 at full zoom. It is a canon SX700 hs with wifi which is so handy. I can transfer photos to the camera wirelessly then onto Instagram.

This wet area went on for some 20km.

All the while, I was off the bike wandering around hoping to see more wildlife.

Another Capivari was seen just ambling along the road.

Once out of here. Some cattlemen were moving 1000 head along the road. They were hardened characters to say the least. Their saddles contained all the gear they would need for a long drive.

I spoke for sometime with one of the riders, the one photographed. You could tell he appreciated the effort I was making in his world out here in his world.

These cattle when close are incredibly tall with long legs.

At times while I was slowly moving with them they would run off the road and through a wet area.

Believe me anything living in the water hole would have been wasted. They just turned it to brown muck.

Further on a group of guys were around a camp fire cooking for those still working.

Once through the mob, a group of horses was grazing up ahead. One had a bell on its neck. These were obviously spare horses for the cattlemen .

By now, my water was running very low. I did not want to filter water from the creeks.

A guy on a moto, stopped to talk, he said there was water up ahead from a tap.

It was his house as I found out .

He filled all my bottles and bladder with icy water.

I stopped here for an hour and had tereré with the family. He worked in Aquidauana. There was a group of 4 houses here, all occupied by differing members of 1 family.

I got all the futbol scores to date. Very surprised to see Uruguay having been beaten by Costa Rica.

Remarkably, water holes fenced off from the cattle were as they may have been prior to their arrival .

Having lunch at one, the water was clear and fish were jumping everywhere.

By now it was 1600, this is a lovely part of the day to be riding, the sun is down and animals are out and about.

I took my shirt of and rode along just enjoying the fading light. There is no twilight here, it is daylight then rapidly becomes dark.

A small group of houses was seen and guys were playing footbul against a fiery red sunset.

Riding on, I was privileged to see a Giant Anteater just meandering along the road ahead. My camera would not let enough light in to get a good shot. I stayed back and watched this apparently awkward animal just walking the road.

They have an incredibly long snout and a huge tasselled tail. It was great to see one alive, many had been seen run over on the road.

Right near here a track off the road was found. The perfect campsite amongst a couple of trees invisible from the road was located. .

Pasta and tuna enjoyed.

The evening was crystal clear, stars were in abundance.

So were the mosquitos, though bearable.

Small bats were bombing me catching insects in the beam of my headlight.

Once in the tent a big effort was made to rid it of every last mosquito.

16/6/2014 bush camp to 20km past Sao Luiz

D71, T7, Av15.44, Max32, 28,762 3211

Fine and warm

It was indeed a great little campsite. Sleeping even with the bike unlocked.

The morning sun was shielded by the foliage around me. Dismantling the tent, it was laid out in the grass to dry in the already hot sun.

The left over pasta and porridge was had, separately I might add. Even though the porridge was not felt like. I know I have to force down food to give me energy for the day.

Once packed a walk was taken down to a water hole near my camp. It was one where stock could not access. It was a haven for living things. Reasonable size fish darted from the shallows, frogs jumped from lily pads.

There was a large disturbance in the middle of the pond, for the sake of a good story, I feel it may have been a small Jacaré. They are all through here.

There was a birds nest hanging from a branch above the water, for protection.

It was 0900 before the road was entered.

The scenery is now mainly natural vegetation and patches of water along both sides of the gravel dusty road. Traffic is now almost non existent.

It was amazing, there was a few km where Toucans were everywhere, at one point there were 4 in one tree.

Up close, they are as every bit surreal and brilliantly coloured as all modern art depicts them. They are fast fliers and agile tree climbers. Often they make noises with their distinctively large beak.

Much time was spent under the shade of a roadside tree trying to talk to these fascinating birds. Too long alone!!

Many just hung around knowing I was not there to harm them. It was truly a pleasure to observe such iconic members of the bird world.

The day was also graced with the sighting of many Macaws, always flying in pairs. Their presence is always announced with their mid air squarking.

They have an aerial profile made distinctive by their size and long tails.

Further on, just ambling along, soaking in this different world, here on the eastern edge of the worlds largest wetland, The Pantanal. One of the dozens of small wooden bridges the span small watercourses was crossed. To the left what looked like a log sticking from the water was infact a Capivara, he sat and let me observe for some time then just quietly swam under a submerged fence line and disappeared into the watery wildness.

My riding time was slow with all this stopping. The heat now is a consideration. I have been very lucky to get all these fine days on this road.

In rain, it would have been impassable in places.

Up ahead was a vehicle parked, by now, I was nearly out of water. A woman was sitting in the drivers seat.

She could speak Spanish. I was given bread and water.

She was waiting for her husband who was part of a crew moving cattle on the road.

Soon he was encountered ahead of the drive with the pack horses carrying the food. I told him his wife was a couple of km up the road and thanked him for the bread and water.

Soon, their cattle came into view, they were a skinny looking mob, 630 all told.

Other riders were cracking incredibly long whips to keep them moving.

They told me Rio Negro was up ahead. Soon I was crossing the solid wooden bridge that spanned this silently moving flow of brown water emerging from the heavy jungle.

Further up the road an older guy was idling along on a push bike towards me. He was dressed in old casual wear, a collared button shirt and dress pants from years ago. Antonio was heading down for a fish. He had 3 lengths of bamboo fishing poles tied to the top bar on the bike and a net was also attached to another pole.

He said I could come down to the river with him.

He spoke no Spanish and told me he could speak some English.

This was an exaggeration! Anyway we headed off the road to a the rivers edge amongst palms trees and other vegetation on the dirt banks of the river.

Antonio got rigged with a kernel of corn on his hook and sprinkled ground corn on the water for burly.

Whilst he was waiting for the big one, I brewed up a coffee for the two of us. He had to drink from my plastic glass.

In the shade here, the mossies were thick, they had me for lunch.

Applying repellent is now mandatory, Antonio even grabbed a bit.

He told me Dorado, Paku and Piranha amongst many other fish are in the waters.

The mossies drove me on from here after I had eaten sardines on crackers.

We said goodbye. I had to ewalk the bike out through the incline to the road.

On the way I brushed on a plant. Once on the road, all hell broke loose. My legs and arms were stinging in many places. My first thought was stinging nettle.

It was quiet a balancing act riding trying to itch these fiercely irritating and painful afflictions. Looking closely, it was found they were little brown ants. Pulling up, I couldn’t shake them off my legs quick enough.

Knowing the pain would soon subside, the stinging was endured.

From here the road came to an intersection, the woman in the car had told me about this small pueblo that had a small loja.

I needed some tuna for dinner and had to top up on water for the night.

A school bus came racing from the side road, followed by a thick cloud of white dust hanging in the still humid air.

I took the decision to ride here to Colonia Sao Luiz, 6km read the sign.

At a y intersection a few km in, I asked a guy in a pickup where the loja was. Following his directions, I came upon a Fazenda house close to the road and went into get water.

The family gave me icy cold water. I filled every bottle with me and the bladder.

Some 1km on was the loja, here I drank two cans of coke, bought some heavily processed canned sausage meat with a use by date 3 years from now. The lady and I both laughed at the label on the bottom of the can.

Whilst sitting chatting, I am continuing to speak in Spanish and at this time only learning a few phrases of Portuguese as required.

A few stock trucks headed through town followed by the dust.

This little pueblo was quite idyllic, so laid back, with Macaws and Toucans flying by.

Leaving town, it was rural bliss with chooks on the road, milking cows were wandering along the road, presumably having feed further afield during the day and now just sauntering home.

Coconut trees were common around the cottages.

The need to find a camp was back on the agenda, it was getting close to dark.

Though, by now the country had little road reserve with an elevated carriageway.

Once out in the open again, a bridge was crossed. Over this was a manicured grass spot with a couple of sawn pieces of wood bridging a tiny stream of tannin coloured but clear water.

Cake of soap was on the planks.

I haven’t done this before, being dog tired, it was decided to camp in full view of the road.

Up ahead the road offered little other opportunities for the night .

I set up and blissfully sat on the planks and bathed my feet and swabbed my whole body with my small towel. This felt so good.

The occasional car slowed down I just waved.

The tent was set up. I covered myself in repellent and had coffee with Anchovies on crackers for dinner. I was totally not wanting to much else.

Mate that I had bought at the little loja was enjoyed under the clearest starry night I have witnessed for some time.

In just a short while shooting stars were seen. The Southern Cross was hiding though still recognisable right in the middle of the Milky Way.

Just reflecting on my decision to have embarked on this kind of life makes me feel warm inside.

It is like living a dream, every day presents new experiences, experiences so unique in my world, that it makes documenting them easy, day after day.

Here under an outrageously starry sky in western Brazil on my little 3 legged stool, neck tilted to the constellations, mate in hand, fire flys and bats accompanying the scene.

All in just the most comfortable temperature.

My mind wandered to where I might otherwise be. Us humans are scared of change. I was fearful of this decision to radically change my world, as is normal.

How many times have you heard someone say, “It is the best thing I ever did”.

Well you are hearing it again now.

There is nowhere I would rather be right now than just part of this balmy night, relaxed, nice thoughts just flowing.

There are always times when friends and family are thought of. This can be difficult at times not having them around. I guess you can’t have the cake and eat it too.

Later two guys on a moto stopped over the bridge, what do they want I thought. I switched on my headlight and beamed it to them, yelling out Todo Bem? They said the same, and then fired up the bike and headed off.

Before sleeping, the tent was given a now customary inspection for mosquitos. A problem is with them flying outside the screen by my head. It is like they are inside .

17/6/2014 Sao Luiz to Campo Verde de Mato Grosso

D53, T7, Av11.84 Max50 28815 3264

Fine with a light head wind from the north.

The night was uneventful with only 4 cars passing and none stopping.

The coldest part of the evening between 0300 and 0600 is now even quite mild. My tropical sleeping bag is getting more suited to conditions all the time.

My fuel is now almost finished. Water was boiled for coffee and porridge.

Again, I departed with a dry tent.

The road from here was getting more like a track, there were patches still damp where in the rain they would have just been mud.

The environment now was much drier as the road took me further away from the edges of the Pantanal. More easterly.

The escarpment to my right was now getting closer. It became evident that the road was going to take me up this range.

By the time I reached the base of this climb the heat was impacting much.

Coming across a clear stream. A swim and all the clothes I was wearing were scrubbed it felt so good to be in the clear surprisingly cool water.

Back on the road in the shade of the cutting half way up the steep climb was a rigid truck stopped. The driver and his load of cattle were stranded. He had clutch problems. Another truck was coming to help.

He told me it was only 40km to Rio Verde. This short distance surprised me, I would be there tonight.

The climb kept going for at least 2km and then levelled out into rolling hill country.

Macaws were flying about in pairs . The vegetation started becoming more of a dry habitat and the trees getting smaller.

The road too was becoming more sandy.

Soon the road just became loose sand, the low spots could not be ridden , my front wheel would just veer off and I would have to drop the bike.

Many places were walked in the 5 or 6km where this sand prevailed. A wound on my calf was continually being scraped by a rear pannier.

Once at the top of all this the terrain again changed. Here there were crops growing and large plantations of young Eucalypt trees.

Riding down the slopes in the loose sand was just as difficult. The amount of times the bike was dropped couldn’t be counted. Each time just sapped more energy having to pick the bike up.

There were a few vehicles and motos now. Local traffic I guessed.

It was now obvious why few vehicles passed my camp last night .

Once the road finally levelled out a plastic seat under a shady clump of Bamboo was seen here I stopped .

By now I was totally exhausted. I ate the can of processed sausages, they were very wierd, like mud with a chemical to hold them together and with no texture. They helped replenish my energy. Three cups of hot sweet chocolate were had in succession.

Some guys pulled up for a chat, it was only a few km to the asphalt. This picked me up.

Half an hour later moving on. Asphalt could be seen up ahead, it was like seeing water in a desert. Riding would not be total concentration like in the sand.

It was an easy ride into Rio Verde, slightly down hill.

Once there, a stop was made at a gas station for drinks and to top up my fuel bottles with petrol for the first time since over a year ago.

Bencina Blanca can’t be bought here in Brazil as far as I can see.

The guys gave me some oranges. We sat down and watched some of the BR Mexico match.

A pousada was found, it was so good to shower and wash my hair.

Over and above all this, I am getting concerned about these infections I have. The Amoxyllin has not got rid of one on my calf.

They are originating from me scratching bites and breaking the skin.

Sometimes the irritation is so unbearable scratching is impossible to do without.

One small spot on the back of my calf is now as big as a twenty cent piece and others are starting.

I am now using Hydrocortosone cream to alleviate the itching .

In town, I got some new antibiotic this time Tetracycline 500mg to try and halt the advance of this infection.

Never before have I taken so many antibiotics, it is not good.

The mosquitos are quite a problem. Creme is being used all the time when not riding.

In short, healthwise things are ok but by no means 100%.

My diet is ok. Vegetables meats and salads are always eaten in towns.

So hopefully, in 7 days this infection may have departed with the help of this new antibiotic.
FOOTNOTE: Upon advice from my sister, I am only going to use the powder from the capsules on the wounds. Its side affects in the sun are to risky. I knew of this side effect though not how bad it could be.
Vitamin C & E tablets are being bought.