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  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
14/6/2014 Bonito to Agua Do Miranda

D77, T7, Av13.8, max44, 28543, 2983

Sunny , 28

Once again Cilla and Enio had put on another big complimentary breakfast . Plenty was eaten, as a day on gravel roads was ahead of me.

Four eggs were boiled in the kitchen.

Like almost every hospedaje or in Brazil Pousada, these people were great to me. I enjoyed the last part of the Brazil game with them the first half was spent in town.

Every time the BR team got a goal the town came alive with fireworks. There were not too many going off in the first half.

The Pourada had been super comfortable and had a lot of room inside.

They have recently just bought it and are improving it greatly.

If you ever find yourself in Bonito, Mato Grosso Do Sul,  I would recommend staying here. It can only get better as they improve things. Their website is [email protected]

On the road about 1030, bread was bought in town and the gravel road to Anastácio was taken.

The day was perfect, little wind and no cloud.

The surface and gravel incorporated so it really wasn’t a problem. It was rough in places so would test my newly trued rear wheel.

The vegetation was more a dry type of forest with spiky bromeliads growing on the floor. Where this bush did not exist was pastureland.

It was great to be riding on this little used road. It was a case of riding from one water shed to the next. Some of the climbs up from the wooden   particularly steep. Good practise I thought.

All the streams had a slight milky appearance. This had been seen many times before. Household wastewater was present in their flow.

Stopping at Moro Grande, just a little pool house in the bush, the owner told me not to drink the water from the streams. I topped up on some bottled sugar mix he had and filled my water bottles. It was perfect timing as my water was almost finished. I sat here quite worn out and sweaty for half an hour.

Hunger was not a problem, the big breakfast had seen to that.

By now the time was 1400, as the sun gets lower in the sky it becomes so much more pleasant.

All day no more than 10 cars and trucks had been encountered, it was a great change.

Nearing 1700,  a spot on the side of the road was found that suited camping. Once again I got busted by a passing motorcyclist. I had to abandon any thoughts of camping here.

Riding on a few km, a small community was arrived at. None of these places are on my map.

Sometimes it is great as you never know just when they will pop up.

Here at the church, on top of a high spot there was a guy on his phone. Once his conversation was finished I asked if I could camp at the rear of the church. It was all good . Again, I had a shelter to camp under. As always, there was a light show off in the distance, as a storm cell was moving around. This one was heading my way.

Later some members of the church work crew turned up . They said it was fine.

There was a bench and toilet plus running water. Dinner was fresh buns and mashed boiled egg.

Later the cell passed over with a small amount of rain. I was so fortunate to be under cover. A dry tent would be packed in the morning.

The temperature is still about 22 degrees at night and sticky .

Though it can still change and get cold .My rear wheel had survived a day of rough riding, at times quite fast on descents down to the small creeks.

It was nice to know I have a good supply of spare spokes.

I have a couple of days left on the antibiotics and all wounds have cleaned up. Though a cough with phlegm still persists. In short,  my health is great but could be a little better. 

14/6/2014 Aguas Do Miranda to 20km nth of  Aquiduana

D77, T7, Av15.37, Max 37 28611, 3060

Fine, camping

Having all my gear dry was great, a couple of guys came up for a chat. I got the Chile Aussie score, not good for OZ.

Once packed and fed, it was straight out of the pueblito. The Rio Miranda was just out of town, a large brown river. Men were anchored midstream with a small dredging set up on a boat. There were other fishing boats tied to the shore upstream.

Among other species, Paku is caught commercially in the rivers here.

It is a very popular eating fish.

All creeks were still milky and the scenery littered with Cocos palms and cattle.

Pretty soon I was at the intersection with highway 419 and had a pleasant ride on brand new asphalt into Aquidauana.

Here I stocked up on food for the 200 plus km trip through to Rio Verde Do Mato Grosso, all on gravel.

Fresh green beans and broccoli were among the items. Persimmon are in season here, They are eaten crisp. These are enjoyed alot.

Further into town I found a mall type place where they were serviced fried food, hard to find anything else at the moment.

There appears to be a lot of good bodies being laid to waste with the amount of fried fast food on offering.

My weight has stayed constant at around 70kg, due to a daily riding average of somewhere only around 35km and eating quantities of this fried food. It is so nice.

Without exercise, it would be a no go zone from a dietary point of view.

I sat down here for a feed of, you guessed it, empanadas.

Whilst eating a guy, smartly dressed though casual,  of about 35 years came and introduced himself. Rhobson, had a newspaper here in Aquidauana and asked if he could interview me.

Not a problem was my reply. His Spanish was good so we could talk freely.

We spent an hour together. He took a few photos.

He was well travelled here in Brazil, informing me of lots of options on the road ahead.

He and friends had taken a 4x4 through the Amazon.

Particularly the use of boats on the Amazon.

His newspaper is the “O Pantaneiro”. I will post a copy of the article should it get printed.

www.O PANTANEIRO.com.br

It took a while and some interpretation to find my way from town .Ruta 419 is a gravel road that skirts the eastern edge of the Pantanal.

Once on it. The surface was loose sand and dust.

Many old Mercs were moving stock on this road with is a Federal road servicing the many Fazendas on its length.

The farms on my left extend deep into the Pantanal. It is grazed during the dry season.

The road reserve on this route is very wide and bushy, there are spots to camp everywhere .So I had no problems in riding till almost dark.

When the time arose to stop. A spot was found where I could get my bike down off the road.

This road reserve also acts as a carriage way when cattle are being moved along its length. So there were tracks all through this bush.

A spot had to be found  that was concealed enough to hide my stove flame, especially whilst it was priming.

There were a large number of young wax palms in the bush.

The fronds of some were cut so as to further conceal my location from passing traffic.

I was some 50m in from the road. Traffic was light but being spotted was not on.

All worked out well.

This whole landscape is now altered by cattle, their smell is everywhere, all water holes are muddy and their waste is all over the road in places.

Dinner was blanched beans and Broccoli. It felt so good to finish the day with this kind of food washed down with hot chocolate.

The night tempsare now a pleasant 20 degrees.

There were no other footprints around other than cows so I was not concerned with having any overnight visitors.

15/6/2014 nth Aquidauana to a bush camp

D80, T7, Av14.77, Max34, 28,691, 3140

Fine, 26 degrees, camping

Upon waking , though last nights meals was great, it did not fill me too much, hence I was very hungry.

Four bread rolls were eaten along with the porridge.

My tent was dry due to the heavy canopy above me. Another fine day was on the way.

Once packed and out on the road, with alot of difficulty, the little batter I had wheeled the bike down was covered in round pebbles, on two occasions I was flat on my side.

It was a case of digging foot holds to get the laden bike out.

Water is now being carried in greater quantities.

On my map, the road is shown as getting very close to the edge of the wet lands.

Sure enough, some 15km down the road water and swamp lands were on both sides at times. Though always more common to my left.

This country goes all the way through the Pantanal to Bolivia.

Riding through here was a delight. There was lots of bird life, many in the trees on the roadside. Storks were patiently wading in shallows.

Some huge splashing was heard as I passed. At on watered area a Capivara was seen wading around. He quietly headed across the waters out of sight when seeing me.

It was a slow trip through here. I was fascinated by this wilderness of water and all the plants that had the ability to grow with wet feet.

At one point, a giant stork was seen in a wet lush green low area.

My new camera is great for zoom shots though very hard to hold still when at full focal lenth. Something like 500mm in a compact, unreal, though little light can get into the lens. The lense only has a f stop of 6.5 at full zoom. It is a canon SX700 hs with wifi which is so handy. I can transfer photos to the camera wirelessly then onto Instagram.

This wet area went on for some 20km.

All the while, I was off the bike wandering around hoping to see more wildlife.

Another Capivari was seen just ambling along the road.

Once out of here. Some cattlemen were moving 1000 head along the road. They were hardened characters to say the least. Their saddles contained all the gear they would need for a long drive.

I spoke for sometime with one of the riders, the one photographed. You could tell he appreciated the effort I was making in his world out here in his world.

These cattle when close are incredibly tall with long legs.

At times while I was slowly moving with them they would run off the road and through a wet area.

Believe me anything living in the water hole would have been wasted. They just turned it to brown muck.

Further on a group of guys were around a camp fire cooking for those still working.

Once through the mob, a group of horses was grazing up ahead. One had a bell on its neck. These were obviously spare horses for the cattlemen .

By now, my water was running very low. I did not want to filter water from the creeks.

A guy on a moto, stopped to talk, he said there was water up ahead from a tap.

It was his house as I found out .

He filled all my bottles and bladder with icy water.

I stopped here for an hour and had tereré with the family. He worked in Aquidauana. There was a group of 4 houses here, all occupied by differing members of 1 family.

I got all the futbol scores to date. Very surprised to see Uruguay having been beaten by Costa Rica.

Remarkably, water holes fenced off from the cattle were as they may have been prior to their arrival .

Having lunch at one, the water was clear and fish were jumping everywhere.

By now it was 1600, this is a lovely part of the day to be riding, the sun is down and animals are out and about.

I took my shirt of and rode along just enjoying the fading light. There is no twilight here, it is daylight then rapidly becomes dark.

A small group of houses was seen and guys were playing footbul against a fiery red sunset.

Riding on, I was privileged to see a Giant Anteater just meandering along the road ahead. My camera would not let enough light in to get a good shot. I stayed back and watched this apparently awkward animal just walking the road.

They have an incredibly long snout and a huge tasselled tail. It was great to see one alive, many had been seen run over on the road.

Right near here a track off the road was found. The perfect campsite amongst a couple of trees invisible from the road was located. .

Pasta and tuna enjoyed. 

The evening was crystal clear, stars were in abundance.

So were the mosquitos, though bearable.

Small bats were bombing me catching insects in the beam of my headlight.

Once in the tent a big effort was made to rid it of every last mosquito.

16/6/2014 bush camp to 20km past Sao Luiz

D71, T7, Av15.44, Max32, 28,762 3211

Fine and warm

It was indeed a great little campsite. Sleeping even with the bike unlocked.

The morning sun was shielded by the foliage around me. Dismantling the tent,  it was laid out in the grass to dry in the already hot sun.

The left over pasta and porridge was had, separately I might add. Even though the porridge was not felt like. I know I have to force down food to give me energy for the day.

Once packed a walk was taken down to a water hole near my camp. It was one where stock could not access. It was a haven for living things. Reasonable size fish darted from the shallows, frogs jumped from lily pads.

There was a large disturbance in the middle of the pond, for the sake of a good story, I feel it may have been a small Jacaré. They are all through here.

There was a birds nest hanging from a branch above the water, for protection.

It was 0900 before the road was entered.

The scenery is now mainly natural vegetation and patches of water along both sides of the gravel dusty road. Traffic is now almost non existent.

It was amazing, there was a few km where Toucans were everywhere, at one point there were 4 in one tree.

Up  close, they are as every bit surreal and brilliantly coloured as all modern art depicts them. They are fast fliers and agile tree climbers. Often they make noises with their distinctively large beak.

Much time was spent under the shade of a roadside tree trying to talk to these fascinating birds. Too long alone!!

Many just hung around knowing I was not there to harm them. It was truly a pleasure to observe such iconic members of the bird world.

The day was also graced with the sighting of many Macaws, always flying in pairs. Their presence is always announced with their mid air squarking.

They have an aerial profile made distinctive by their size and long tails.

Further on,  just ambling along, soaking in this different world, here on the eastern edge of the worlds largest wetland, The Pantanal. One of the dozens of small wooden bridges the span small watercourses was crossed. To the left what looked like a log sticking from the water was infact a Capivara, he sat and let me observe for some time then just quietly swam under a submerged fence line and disappeared into the watery wildness.

My riding time was slow with all this stopping. The heat now is a consideration. I have been very lucky to get all these fine days on this road.

In rain,  it would have been impassable in places.

Up ahead was a vehicle parked, by now, I was nearly out of water. A woman was sitting in the drivers seat.

She could speak Spanish. I was given bread and water.

She was waiting for her husband who was part of a crew moving cattle on the road.

Soon he was  encountered  ahead of the drive with the pack horses carrying the food. I told him his wife was a couple of km up the road and thanked him for the bread and water.

Soon, their cattle came into view, they were a skinny looking mob, 630 all told.

Other riders were cracking incredibly long whips to keep them moving.

They told me Rio Negro was up ahead. Soon I was crossing the solid wooden bridge that spanned this silently moving flow of brown water emerging from the heavy jungle.

Further up the road an older guy was idling along on a push bike towards me. He was dressed in old casual wear, a collared button shirt and dress pants from years ago. Antonio was heading down for a fish. He had 3 lengths of bamboo fishing poles tied to the top bar on the bike and a net was also attached to another pole.

He said I could come down to the river with him.

He spoke no Spanish and told me he could speak some English.

This was an exaggeration! Anyway we headed off the road to a the rivers edge amongst palms trees and other vegetation on the dirt banks of the river.

Antonio got rigged with a kernel of corn on his hook and sprinkled ground corn on the water for burly.

Whilst he was waiting for the big one, I brewed up a coffee for the two of us. He had to drink from my plastic glass.

In the shade here,  the mossies were thick, they had me for lunch.

Applying repellent is now mandatory, Antonio even grabbed a bit.

He told me Dorado, Paku and Piranha amongst many other fish are in the waters.

The mossies drove me on from here after I had eaten sardines on crackers.

We said goodbye. I had to ewalk the bike out through the incline to the road.

On the way I brushed on a plant. Once on the road, all hell broke loose. My legs and arms were stinging in many places. My first thought was stinging nettle.

It was quiet a balancing act riding trying to itch these fiercely irritating and painful afflictions. Looking closely, it was found they were little brown ants. Pulling up, I couldn’t shake them off my legs quick enough.

Knowing the pain would soon subside, the stinging was endured.

From here the road came to an intersection, the woman in the car had told me about this small pueblo that had a small loja.

I needed some tuna for dinner and had to top up on water for the night.

A school bus came racing from the side road, followed by a thick cloud of white dust hanging in the still humid air.

I took the decision to ride here to Colonia Sao Luiz, 6km read the sign.

At a y intersection a few km in, I asked a guy in a pickup where the loja was. Following his directions,  I came upon a Fazenda house close to the road and went into get water.

The family gave me icy cold water. I filled every bottle with me and the bladder.

Some 1km on was the loja, here I drank two cans of coke, bought some heavily processed canned sausage meat with a use by date 3 years from now. The lady and I both laughed at the label on the bottom of the can.

Whilst sitting chatting, I am continuing to speak in Spanish and at this time only learning a few phrases of Portuguese as required.

A few stock trucks headed through town followed by the dust.

This little pueblo was quite idyllic, so laid back, with Macaws and Toucans flying by.

Leaving town, it was rural bliss with chooks on the road, milking cows were wandering along the road, presumably having feed further afield during the day and now just sauntering home. 

Coconut trees were common around the cottages.

The need to find a camp was back on the agenda, it was getting close to dark.

Though, by now the country had little road reserve with an elevated carriageway.

Once out in the open again, a bridge was crossed. Over this was a manicured grass spot with a couple of sawn pieces of wood bridging a tiny stream of tannin coloured but clear water.

 Cake of soap was on the planks.

I haven’t done this before, being dog tired, it was decided to camp in full view of the road.

Up ahead the road offered little other opportunities for the night .

I set up and blissfully sat on the planks and bathed my feet and swabbed my whole body with my small towel. This felt so good.

The occasional car slowed down I just waved.

The tent was set up. I covered myself in repellent and had coffee with Anchovies on crackers for dinner. I was totally not wanting to much else.

Mate that I had bought at the little loja was enjoyed under the clearest starry night I have witnessed for some time.

In just a short while shooting stars were seen. The Southern Cross was hiding though still recognisable right in the middle of the Milky Way.

Just reflecting on my decision to have embarked  on this kind of life makes me feel warm inside.

It is like living a dream, every day presents new experiences, experiences so unique in my world, that it makes documenting them easy, day after day.

Here under an outrageously starry sky in western Brazil on my little 3 legged stool, neck tilted to the constellations, mate in hand, fire flys and bats accompanying the scene.

All in just the most comfortable temperature.

My mind wandered to where I might otherwise be. Us humans are scared of change. I was fearful of this decision to radically change my world, as is normal.

How many times have you heard someone say, “It is the best thing I ever did”.

Well you are hearing it again now.

 There is nowhere I would rather be right now than just part of this balmy night, relaxed, nice thoughts just flowing.

There are always times when friends and family are thought of.  This can be difficult at times not having them around. I guess you can’t have the cake and eat it too.

Later two guys on a moto stopped over the bridge, what do they want I thought. I switched on my headlight and beamed it to them, yelling out Todo Bem? They said the same, and then fired up the bike and headed off.

Before sleeping, the tent was given a now customary inspection for mosquitos. A problem is with them flying outside the screen by my head. It is like they are inside .

17/6/2014 Sao Luiz to Campo Verde de Mato Grosso

D53, T7, Av11.84 Max50 28815 3264

Fine with a light head wind from the north.

The night was uneventful with only 4 cars passing and none stopping.

The coldest part of the evening between 0300 and 0600 is now even quite mild. My tropical sleeping bag is getting more suited to conditions all the time.

My fuel is now almost finished. Water was boiled for coffee and  porridge.

Again, I departed with a dry tent.

The road from here was getting more like a track, there were patches still damp where in the rain they would have just been mud. 

The environment now was much drier as the road took me further away from the edges of the Pantanal. More easterly.

The escarpment to my right was now getting closer. It became evident that the road was going to take me up this range.

By the time I reached the base of this climb the heat was impacting much.

Coming across a clear stream. A swim and all the clothes I was wearing were scrubbed it felt so good to be in the clear surprisingly cool water.

Back on the road in the shade of the cutting half way up the steep climb was a rigid truck stopped. The driver and his load of cattle were stranded. He had clutch problems. Another truck was coming to help.

He told me it was only 40km to Rio Verde. This short distance surprised me, I would be there tonight.

The climb kept going for at least 2km and then levelled out into rolling hill country.

Macaws  were flying about in pairs . The vegetation started becoming more of a dry habitat and the trees getting smaller.

The road too was becoming more sandy.

Soon the road just became loose sand, the low spots could not be ridden , my front wheel would just veer off and I would have to drop the bike.

Many places were walked in the 5 or 6km where this sand prevailed. A wound on my calf was continually being scraped by a rear pannier.

Once at the top of all this the terrain again changed. Here there were crops growing and large plantations of young Eucalypt trees.

Riding down the slopes in the loose sand was just as difficult. The amount of times the bike was dropped couldn’t be counted. Each time just sapped more energy having to pick the bike up.

There were a few vehicles and motos now. Local traffic I guessed.

It was now obvious why few vehicles passed my camp last night .

Once the road finally levelled out a plastic seat under a shady clump of Bamboo was seen here I stopped .

By now I was totally exhausted. I ate the can of processed sausages, they were very wierd, like mud with a chemical to hold them together and with no texture. They helped replenish my energy. Three cups of hot sweet chocolate were had in succession.

Some guys pulled up for a chat, it was only a few km to the asphalt. This picked me up.

Half an hour later moving on. Asphalt could be seen up ahead, it was like seeing  water in a desert. Riding would not be total concentration like in the sand.

It was an easy ride into Rio Verde, slightly down hill.

Once there, a stop was made at a gas station for drinks and to top up my fuel bottles with petrol for the first time since over a year ago.

Bencina Blanca can’t be bought here in Brazil as far as I can see.

The guys gave me some oranges. We sat down and watched some of the BR Mexico match.

A pousada was found, it was so good to shower and wash my hair.

Over and above all this, I am getting concerned about these infections I have. The Amoxyllin has not got rid of one on my calf.

They are originating from me scratching bites and breaking the skin.

Sometimes the irritation is so unbearable scratching is impossible to do without.

One small spot on the back of my calf is now as big as a twenty cent piece and others are starting.

I am now using Hydrocortosone cream to alleviate the itching .

In town, I got some new antibiotic this time Tetracycline 500mg to try and halt the advance of this infection.

Never before have I taken so many antibiotics, it is not good.

The mosquitos are quite a problem. Creme is being used all the time when not riding.

In short, healthwise things are ok but by no means 100%.

My diet is ok. Vegetables meats and salads are always eaten in towns.

So hopefully, in 7 days this infection may have departed with the help of this new antibiotic.
FOOTNOTE: Upon advice from my sister, I am only going to use the powder from the capsules on the wounds. Its side affects in the sun are to risky. I knew of this side effect though not how bad it could be.
Vitamin C & E tablets are being bought.

PictureRuta 419 Aquidauana to Rio Verde

PictureFirst night, the church, Aguas do Miranda

PicturePiled high from the twin towns

Picture1000 head on the move

PictureThese old Mercs are still working throughout South America. Many stock trucks were this model.

PictureFoggy morning, making way to another fine hot day.

PictureQuite a family group of Capivari

PictureNear Rio Negro

PictureMany Fazendas up a side road

PictureTotally worn out after the riding and pushing in the sand.

PictureThe end of the gravel before the twin towns of Anastacio and Aquidauana

PictureSecond night, palm fronds added extra visual protection from the road some 20m behind me

PictureSeriema

PictureJust a quick sunset then dark, no twilight.

PictureAlways lush, more often than not cattle are present.

Picture

PictureAntonio fishing in the Rio Negro

PictureCamping in full view of the road, a first.

PictureA swim in a clear creek to wash 4 days of dust off me and my clothes before the climb

Picture

PictureCapivara

PictureA water hole fenced off from cattle, what a difference

Picturea Tuiuiu

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