browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
TANZANIA

21/7/2015  Nyakasanza to  bush camp 12km before Kigoma turnoff
D79, T4.5 Av16 , max59, 43,293 8,250
The sou easter continues to blow cooling air, hot and clear 27-30 degrees
Our hotel was a great place, comfortable beds and no mosquitos, our nets were not even used.
We went back to the guys cleaning trucks and loaded up with good water before leaving.
There were trucks everywhere like last night.
I filled my fuel bottle at a newly constructed gas station just out of town.
The road was in quite a bad state with dirt patches, truck movements were becoming quite heavy. A driver told me it is a six day round trip from Dar es Salaam to Kigali and back.
They all carry charcoal and cook their own meals. Many carry plantain bananas back to the coast.
The dry season sou easter is in our faces, it is a fresh little wind and keeps us pedalling on the slight descents. It is cool and takes the heat off the day .
We bought tomatoes at one isolated little village in this dry landscape that is so different from Rwanda.
There are sparodic fires burning in the bush along the way. Much of the grassy small treed landscape has been recently burnt.
The houses out here are mainly constructed of adobe. Life appears very hard out here with little variety in peoples diets. The only things for sale on the roadside are tomatoes and sweet potatoes between villages.
Bens bike seat bolt broke again, very luckily we had bought the spare set up in Kigali. We replaced the set up completely.
All this happened just a few km from Nyabugombe, here we stopped for goat, rice and plantain, Ben bought a spare bolt for his seat. We also bought a good supply of roasted peanuts and stopped in a bar for cool water and soda.
The road continued to have flat sections and some gentle climbs. I stopped in one village, soon a large group of children surrounded me. These kids are really part of the land, they have dusty clothes on and are generally in bare feet, their feet are dirty and as hard as the soles of any shoe. Riding off a few followed me, they pulled at the back of my bike. I then realised they had stole some glucose biscuits I had in a bag, I turned around and rode back into the village on seeing me they all scattered  in fear.
Needless to say they enjoyed the takings.
At the turn off in the town of Muzani we stopped for drinks and to buy bananas for breakfast in the morning.
These villages are really just a row of ramshackle buildings on the roadside. Kids were selling bottles of honey at the intersection.
From here we found ourselves very tired. We had ridden a few big distances since Kigali. Coming to a bushy uninhabited area on our left we inspected it as a potential campsite. It was perfect, no people about. We left the road unseen.
Once we had our tents set up in the dry bush, of all things a fire broke out on the ridge above. We watched this closely. Luckily it burnt along the top of the range as we went to bed.
A big pasta dish was enjoyed. We had plenty of water so enjoyed a few hot drinks. I was quite dehydrated. Hot chocolate is so nice at times like this .
Our minds were on the fire as we went to bed.

 

22/7/2015  Bush camp before Nyakanazi turnoff to Kakonko
D59, T4 Av14.08 , max46, 43,352 8,230
Hot and dusty, wind now just behind our left shoulder , hot and dry air early afternoon
The camp was a great spot we were undisturbed all night. It was nice to be able to take our time leaving, again no one arrived. To be able to do things like this without an audience is such a privilege here in Africa so far.
The fire on the hill had almost burnt itself out in the cool over night air.
No one even saw us leave the site. Two kilometres down the road people were everywhere. We were lucky to have found this bush site that only had livestock tracks through it.
It was an easy ride to the turnoff and the busy town of Nyakanazi. Here we stopped for chapatti, water and other supplies. I bought honey from the girls on the corner who were selling all sorts of things to passing buses and truck drivers. We also bought bananas. The score of the day was Nido milk powder at half the price as in Rwanda.
This main road is really a mess with dirt patches and potholes in many places. It is dangerous going down hills with to much speed.
The trucks really cause a lot of damage to the asphalt.
The guys bought water in town whilst I filled my bladder and bottles at a large water container, the water was used for washing but was ok after filtration. This I did to some before leaving.
Immediately the road deteriorated to a talcum powder fine dusty ochre coloured road.
The first 15-20 km they were constructing a new section so we got to ride on this smooth surface that vehicles were not using. They were on the bumpy original road. It was something of an obstacle course as we had to ride around piles of dirt and new culvert constructions.
People were wandering along the road as usual but nowhere in the numbers as in Rwanda. There were areas where people were few.
The dust was thick in places, the few trucks that passed gave us a real sprinkling. As usual the buses were flying passed seemingly out of control at times.
We bought veges here for the nights camping.
From here we rode on to a side track and rode a few hundred metres from the road and stopped for lunch and to reflect on the market. It was such a reminder we were in Africa.
Here we dried the tents and had a huge cook up for lunch, Cal had rice with sardines and I had a bowl of sadines and all the veges.
Ben still a bit disorganised had our left overs. We joke about his disorganisation. He often eats dry noodles for lunch but is getting better.
I emptied my milk powder into bags. Never leaving rubbish anywhere including tea bags. The empty milk tin and plastic lid was left on the track for someone. The people could use this.
The only thing left  at a camp site is the toilet paper we use. I try to put this under a rock or at least out of sight.
On my handle bars I have a stubby holder for waster paper and chewing gum during the day. Riding against the light sou easter makes my mouth incredibly dry. Chewing gum is a huge help in keeping it moist.
Coming to a bridge, there were a group of people swimming in the waters below. Here we stopped, Cal and I went straight in for a dip in the surprisingly cool and refreshing dark brown waters. A vehicle and a Yamaha Ag bike pulled up. Three German guys were also on their way to Kigoma. We stopped and talked with them for an hour.
They were on a three week trip in a rental car from Uganda. We hoped to see them in Kigoma but more than likely will see them on their way bak on this 300km trip through to Kigoma.
This road is a great insight into isolated rural life out here. People were growing cotton in places and sorghum. It was being dried and stacked on the roadside in small villages in places. It was nice to see donkeys and carts again.
As the sun was going down we got to Kikonko and checked out a couple of guesthouses that were over priced. We found a fantastic place,the K.Mbuna guesthouse, here we camped in the back yard.
They had a generator so a few items were charged. I watched a bit of TV, Obama had just visited Kenya and Ethiopia.
The mossies here were thick and had found their way into our tents.
I tried one of the sachets of brandy before going to bed, not bad for twelve hundred bob, about 80c Australian. We had another great pasta  and fried potatoes for entree.
The frypan I carry is coming in ever so handy.
My tent was set up under a pergola at the back so dew and condensation were not a problem.
 
23,24/7/2015  Kakonko to Kibondo
D49, T33.5 Av12.49 , max51, 43,400 8,220
Clear warm day, sou easter blowing , hot and dry air early afternoon
DUST and more DUST!!
It had been a comfortable night in the hotel, camping always provides for a good nights sleep.
We took our time here and left about 1130.
My clic stand broke, so an hour was spent looking for a half moon shape that supports the bar. In the end a part from bike brakes here was used. Which is better than the plastic original part.
A couple of new steering dampener springs were also bought.
The road was very dusty. Every time a bus went past we got covered. It was a slow steady climb mixed with small down hill areas. The road is really only one way. It has sloping sides to remove water quickly in times of rain. If we get on these edges we  usually come off.
The aggregate is round and slippery.
Patches in the road were deep red bulldust. These were impossible to ride through. By now we were covered in the red dust. Ben especially funny with white patches on his face where his sunglasses were.
Again there were many small villages along the way, most not on any of the maps we had.
In one village, we stopped for a drink. We needed tomatoes and onion. The locals took us across the road and behind some houses was a sight never seen before. Here was this market like the Marakesh souk. There were people in all sorts of coloured clothes packed shoulder to shoulder, buying selling and talking. There were goats everywhere for sale, chooks tied up for the same reason. We had to push our way through the crowds with our bikes.
Once a spot to park them was found . I went to buy what we needed.
The boys were completely surrounded by people by the time I got back.
We slowly left this bizarre scene. Back on the road we stopped in a few km down a side track and had a great lunch break in I relative peace. I emptied my milk can. This was left on the side of the track, as someone may have a use for it.
By the time we arrived in Kibondo we were completely covered in dust and totally dried out. I had stopped just before the last climb into the town and bought a pineapple to moisten my parched throat.
Here we stopped at a small shop and sat outside and enjoyed 2 icy pepsis each. They tasted so good.
In town we looked for a motel and settled on the AB Guesthouse, at 15,000 shilling a night it was costly, but very comfortable.
We got in there and I just walked under the shower fully clothed, peak hat and all. The shower floor turned red brown.
We all did a heap of washing and rested. That night we ate across the road.
The next day we went into town to buy supplies at the great market.
We also needed money. The only ATM in town would not except our cards so we had to exchange some US currency. They too did not want to know about my old US 20’s.
After we had got all we wanted at the markets we decided to spend another night here.
They rest of the day was just spent relaxing. I hand washed another load of items from my kitchen gear and other things not so dirty but not having been washed for some time.
Dinner was at the same restaurant.
Mosquitos here in the town were almost non existent, our nets were not used.
 
25/7/2015  Kibondo to bush camp past River Malagarasi
D70, T4.5 Av14.44 , max58, 43,470 8,290
Road has improved, dust only when vehicles passing, dry but not too hot
 We were up early and more than ready to get going. We had to reluctantly buy water in town.
The water at the hotel was only good for cooking and washing. Some was however taken , for lunch and washing.
The profile told us we had quite an easy ride ahead of us
Riding was indeed a lot easier now, the last day into Kibondo was really hard with a steep little climb just into town.
Cassava was being dried in piles along the roadside, while more was in bags ready to be picked up.
One village also grew tobacco, here the children did not look to well. The driver told me their cooking methods are poor. The children had runny noses and bloated stomachs, but like all kids they had smiles on their faces and were easy to get a laugh from.
The tobacco is hauled to Kigoma and from there sold around the outlying areas.
A turn off was made into the Moyowosi Game reserve that was close to the road. We saw no animals but had fun with a bunch of kids in the forest.
We came across the river Muragarazi, it was a perfect site for camping, locals said there were crocs here. So we went 10km up the road and found a track into the scrubby forest. We kept riding up here till we found a spot that was not parched black from fire.
Much of this country is being burnt or has been burnt.
The terrain is now very open with expansive views being offered at high points. Animal life is almost nil. I was told there are a few buffalo about but no other large animals.
We met a man on his bike heading in, he did not mind us being here.
26/7/2015  Bush camp past River Malagarasi to Quarry camp 30 km east of Kasulu
D51, T3.5 Av13.44 , max58, 43,522 8,341
Road has improved, dust only when vehicles passing, dry but not too hot, easy riding
The camp had been visited by no one all night. The temperatures are great for sleeping. I am presently using my mesh inner in my Hilleberg Soulo. It offers good air movement in the night. Mosquitos are still not a real problem. Just before dusk last night flies were a big problem getting in our eyes, as soon as it darkened they disappeared. It is remarkable how insect free this trip has been so far. Apart from the flies in Sudan on the road, there really has been no annoyances. Even mosquitos have not been too ravenous.
Nearing one village, an elderly man was riding a bicycle with a half filled bag of maize,on the carrier. He was 71 years of age and very spritely, Daniel and I talked at length. He was taking the maize to one of his sons in the village, some 10 km away. He had 12 children. On this occasion, I gave him some money to buy a few things. We arranged to meet at the markets.
We had lunch in a tiny little shed here, Daniel came up to say hi, he was extremely happy, the money had been used to do some repairs on his bicycle.
Out here on the B8, bicycles are an important part of life. The road is hot overly hilly and they can be used in most places. People just push them up the hills.
Firewood, water and green plantain bananas are the most common loads.
Our biggest problem out here is speeding vehicles, they slow down for no one. The locals here must have terrible breathing problems here in the dry season. When a large truck passes, the first few seconds it is like having fine sand infront of your face, then visibility drops down to a metre, no more.
Our neck warmers are worn over our faces much of the time.
We passed a turnoff to another refugee camp for Burundians. This was sponsored by many of the wealthy nations, Australia included.
In a small village, some of the donated items were being sold, things like dates from the UAE, mosquito nets and foldable water containers.
Here we bought cold sodas, A huge UN Volvo six wheel drive truck and trailer pulled up, it was nice not to have met this on the road.
The high tech oil we have for our chains is not copping with the dust so we stopped to buy some small containers of general purpose oil.
We are having to oil our chains up to four times a day .
Luckily Bens seat has not given us any more problems.
Our nights camp was found in a roadside quarry, it was clean, as they usually are and away from the road. Pasta and fried sweet potatoes were enjoyed for dinner.
 

27/7/2015 Quarry camp 30 km east of Kasulu to road construction camp
D64, T4.3 Av13.84 , max50, 43,586 8,405
Road has improved, dust only when vehicles passing, dry but not too hot, easy riding.
We woke up to an unusually cold morning with a heavy dew on our tents.
Again villages were common along the road and wells were located conveniently. There are always people gathered around these life giving fixtures.
In one village, school children were wandering along the road. On stopping they all gathered around. The moment they see a camera they all scatter, they all laugh and take off as fast as they can. Only the brave ones stay.
The road was becoming corrugated in places which is very difficult and uncomfortable riding. On arrival in Kasulu we bought supplies and had lunch. Vendors were selling pineapples from cart, we enjoyed two of these each. The MTN bank had a huge line up at the ATM so we did not try it.
We came across a small creek and had another good wash in here fully clothed.
As the day wore on I had started getting low on water so some was bought in a small village. This stretch had no wells after the first 10km.
Late in the day we started looking for a camp. It is important to find the areas where no one is living. Missing one can mean another long ride.
We came across a compound where a Chinese road building company was based. They kindly let us camp under the awning of a new dwelling. There was plenty of water available but as usual it was not potable, only to be used in cooking.
 

28/7/2015 Road construction camp to Kigoma, on Lake Tanganyika
Mapinduzi Lodge (excellent budget lodging)
D72, T4.3 Av15.59 , max53, 43,657 8,477
Still dusty but generally downhill, asphalt 35km from camp.
The nights sleep under the awning of the new dwelling was superb, there was a breeze funnelling around our tents which made for a cozy sleep.
We took our time leaving, the workers came over to greet us.
Out on the road we rode on the newly constructed side for some distance, this was vehicle free.
Once back one the road proper, the same dust clouds were behind every vehicle. The road was variable, one spot would be smooth, then half way along the straight it would become lumpy with rocks protruding from the surface, then we would arrive at an area of bull dust which is deep and difficult to ride through.
The edges of the road are steep to allow water to freely drain from its centre. The most dangerous situation is when a semi is passing, falling off onto the road on these slopes could see one getting hit by the truck, the driver would never know. On occasions, we stop for trucks. Visibilty is zero just on their passing.
Coming down to the bottom of one descent was a river, here was a creek with sufficient flow for a swim. Many of the streams and creeks crossed have a slight milky appearance. This is an indication they are utilized upstream for household activities, including washing and the removal of grey water.
This once pristine creek was no different. It did not stop us from swimming in it and washing our clothes. We stopped here for lunch. I had noodles and soya chunks and we all had a cup of tea.
Climbing out of here was bull dust. Luckily we made it through before any vehicles came by to coat our damp clothes in the dust.
Coming into another small village named Kidahwe, people were rushing the odd taxi and bus that came by with things to sell.
Here we stopped for fresh pineapples, I had two they were that good.
Some few km past here up ahead, was something, I had completely forgot about, asphalt, how good was this. The people at the Chinese construction camp had told us that there was asphalt up ahead.
It was so good to be free of the dust. Though riding on the road for the last week was never boring, as concentration was needed most of the way, especially downhill.
There were some steep sections on this final 30km to Kigoma. We stopped for fresh coconut milk from the fruit in one town.
Further up the road, riding alone, a goat crossed the road, another followed it. Right before my eyes, a Pro Box hit it square on .The poor animal was trapped underneath for a hundred metres or more then came out from under the vehicle. It was still alive. It sat on the side of the road, shocked unable to get up. Then started bleating. Had people been around I would have offered my knife to put the crying animal out of pain. I dare not do this with no one about, in case they thought I just killed it and would have to pay up.
Riding on we still had plenty of small climbs before getting into Kigoma. The sight of the lake was something special. This had been a journey within a journey, never to be forgotten. The road provided us with an insight into rural life here in northern Tanzania. The people encountered along the way were always friendly. The children were inquisitive and loved our presence, but always scattered when they saw our cameras come out.
We stopped for chilled coke. Next was finally to get some money from an ATM.
Max withdrawal from the commerce bank was 400,000 bob.
We spent time talking with two French couples who were backpacking.
Asking around we soon found the Mapinduzi Lodge, just down from the MTN bank.
Here we got basic but clean single rooms for 6000/night.
We quickly unloaded our bikes and headed off on them to see the sun set over the lake. We were to late, but what a beautiful evening on the lake shores. We enjoyed two icy Serengeti beers and an omelette with chips metres from the calm expanse of water.
We washed the bikes in the lake.
This ride for all of us was quite an achievement given the conditions, we all felt elated to say the least.
For me, being here on the shores of this famous body of water, which is the second largest freshwater lake by volume, the second deepest, and the world’s longest. All after lake Baikal in Serbia, was something made even more exciting by the fact that my two sons, Callum and Ben were here at  this table sharing a cold beer and a good chat about the last week getting here.
We rode back to the guesthouse in the dark, all the eateries in town were closed.
Who cared, we were tired and had comfy beds to sleep in.
Here in Tanzania, people eat early and get up early.  
 





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