TANZANIA
21/7/2015 Nyakasanza to bush camp 12km before Kigoma turnoff
D79, T4.5 Av16 , max59, 43,293 8,250
The sou easter continues to blow cooling air, hot and clear 27-30 degrees
Our hotel was a great place, comfortable beds and no mosquitos, our nets were not even used.
We went back to the guys cleaning trucks and loaded up with good water before leaving.
There were trucks everywhere like last night.
I filled my fuel bottle at a newly constructed gas station just out of town.
The road was in quite a bad state with dirt patches, truck movements were becoming quite heavy. A driver told me it is a six day round trip from Dar es Salaam to Kigali and back.
They all carry charcoal and cook their own meals. Many carry plantain bananas back to the coast.
The dry season sou easter is in our faces, it is a fresh little wind and keeps us pedalling on the slight descents. It is cool and takes the heat off the day .
We bought tomatoes at one isolated little village in this dry landscape that is so different from Rwanda.
There are sparodic fires burning in the bush along the way. Much of the grassy small treed landscape has been recently burnt.
The houses out here are mainly constructed of adobe. Life appears very hard out here with little variety in peoples diets. The only things for sale on the roadside are tomatoes and sweet potatoes between villages.
Bens bike seat bolt broke again, very luckily we had bought the spare set up in Kigali. We replaced the set up completely.
All this happened just a few km from Nyabugombe, here we stopped for goat, rice and plantain, Ben bought a spare bolt for his seat. We also bought a good supply of roasted peanuts and stopped in a bar for cool water and soda.
The road continued to have flat sections and some gentle climbs. I stopped in one village, soon a large group of children surrounded me. These kids are really part of the land, they have dusty clothes on and are generally in bare feet, their feet are dirty and as hard as the soles of any shoe. Riding off a few followed me, they pulled at the back of my bike. I then realised they had stole some glucose biscuits I had in a bag, I turned around and rode back into the village on seeing me they all scattered in fear.
Needless to say they enjoyed the takings.
At the turn off in the town of Muzani we stopped for drinks and to buy bananas for breakfast in the morning.
These villages are really just a row of ramshackle buildings on the roadside. Kids were selling bottles of honey at the intersection.
From here we found ourselves very tired. We had ridden a few big distances since Kigali. Coming to a bushy uninhabited area on our left we inspected it as a potential campsite. It was perfect, no people about. We left the road unseen.
Once we had our tents set up in the dry bush, of all things a fire broke out on the ridge above. We watched this closely. Luckily it burnt along the top of the range as we went to bed.
A big pasta dish was enjoyed. We had plenty of water so enjoyed a few hot drinks. I was quite dehydrated. Hot chocolate is so nice at times like this .
Our minds were on the fire as we went to bed.
22/7/2015 Bush camp before Nyakanazi turnoff to Kakonko
D59, T4 Av14.08 , max46, 43,352 8,230
Hot and dusty, wind now just behind our left shoulder , hot and dry air early afternoon
The camp was a great spot we were undisturbed all night. It was nice to be able to take our time leaving, again no one arrived. To be able to do things like this without an audience is such a privilege here in Africa so far.
The fire on the hill had almost burnt itself out in the cool over night air.
No one even saw us leave the site. Two kilometres down the road people were everywhere. We were lucky to have found this bush site that only had livestock tracks through it.
It was an easy ride to the turnoff and the busy town of Nyakanazi. Here we stopped for chapatti, water and other supplies. I bought honey from the girls on the corner who were selling all sorts of things to passing buses and truck drivers. We also bought bananas. The score of the day was Nido milk powder at half the price as in Rwanda.
This main road is really a mess with dirt patches and potholes in many places. It is dangerous going down hills with to much speed.
The trucks really cause a lot of damage to the asphalt.
The guys bought water in town whilst I filled my bladder and bottles at a large water container, the water was used for washing but was ok after filtration. This I did to some before leaving.
Immediately the road deteriorated to a talcum powder fine dusty ochre coloured road.
The first 15-20 km they were constructing a new section so we got to ride on this smooth surface that vehicles were not using. They were on the bumpy original road. It was something of an obstacle course as we had to ride around piles of dirt and new culvert constructions.
People were wandering along the road as usual but nowhere in the numbers as in Rwanda. There were areas where people were few.
The dust was thick in places, the few trucks that passed gave us a real sprinkling. As usual the buses were flying passed seemingly out of control at times.
We bought veges here for the nights camping.
From here we rode on to a side track and rode a few hundred metres from the road and stopped for lunch and to reflect on the market. It was such a reminder we were in Africa.
Here we dried the tents and had a huge cook up for lunch, Cal had rice with sardines and I had a bowl of sadines and all the veges.
Ben still a bit disorganised had our left overs. We joke about his disorganisation. He often eats dry noodles for lunch but is getting better.
I emptied my milk powder into bags. Never leaving rubbish anywhere including tea bags. The empty milk tin and plastic lid was left on the track for someone. The people could use this.
The only thing left at a camp site is the toilet paper we use. I try to put this under a rock or at least out of sight.
On my handle bars I have a stubby holder for waster paper and chewing gum during the day. Riding against the light sou easter makes my mouth incredibly dry. Chewing gum is a huge help in keeping it moist.
Coming to a bridge, there were a group of people swimming in the waters below. Here we stopped, Cal and I went straight in for a dip in the surprisingly cool and refreshing dark brown waters. A vehicle and a Yamaha Ag bike pulled up. Three German guys were also on their way to Kigoma. We stopped and talked with them for an hour.
They were on a three week trip in a rental car from Uganda. We hoped to see them in Kigoma but more than likely will see them on their way bak on this 300km trip through to Kigoma.
This road is a great insight into isolated rural life out here. People were growing cotton in places and sorghum. It was being dried and stacked on the roadside in small villages in places. It was nice to see donkeys and carts again.
As the sun was going down we got to Kikonko and checked out a couple of guesthouses that were over priced. We found a fantastic place,the K.Mbuna guesthouse, here we camped in the back yard.
They had a generator so a few items were charged. I watched a bit of TV, Obama had just visited Kenya and Ethiopia.
The mossies here were thick and had found their way into our tents.
I tried one of the sachets of brandy before going to bed, not bad for twelve hundred bob, about 80c Australian. We had another great pasta and fried potatoes for entree.
The frypan I carry is coming in ever so handy.
My tent was set up under a pergola at the back so dew and condensation were not a problem.
23,24/7/2015 Kakonko to Kibondo
D49, T33.5 Av12.49 , max51, 43,400 8,220
Clear warm day, sou easter blowing , hot and dry air early afternoon
DUST and more DUST!!
It had been a comfortable night in the hotel, camping always provides for a good nights sleep.
We took our time here and left about 1130.
My clic stand broke, so an hour was spent looking for a half moon shape that supports the bar. In the end a part from bike brakes here was used. Which is better than the plastic original part.
A couple of new steering dampener springs were also bought.
The road was very dusty. Every time a bus went past we got covered. It was a slow steady climb mixed with small down hill areas. The road is really only one way. It has sloping sides to remove water quickly in times of rain. If we get on these edges we usually come off.
The aggregate is round and slippery.
Patches in the road were deep red bulldust. These were impossible to ride through. By now we were covered in the red dust. Ben especially funny with white patches on his face where his sunglasses were.
Again there were many small villages along the way, most not on any of the maps we had.
In one village, we stopped for a drink. We needed tomatoes and onion. The locals took us across the road and behind some houses was a sight never seen before. Here was this market like the Marakesh souk. There were people in all sorts of coloured clothes packed shoulder to shoulder, buying selling and talking. There were goats everywhere for sale, chooks tied up for the same reason. We had to push our way through the crowds with our bikes.
Once a spot to park them was found . I went to buy what we needed.
The boys were completely surrounded by people by the time I got back.
We slowly left this bizarre scene. Back on the road we stopped in a few km down a side track and had a great lunch break in I relative peace. I emptied my milk can. This was left on the side of the track, as someone may have a use for it.
By the time we arrived in Kibondo we were completely covered in dust and totally dried out. I had stopped just before the last climb into the town and bought a pineapple to moisten my parched throat.
Here we stopped at a small shop and sat outside and enjoyed 2 icy pepsis each. They tasted so good.
In town we looked for a motel and settled on the AB Guesthouse, at 15,000 shilling a night it was costly, but very comfortable.
We got in there and I just walked under the shower fully clothed, peak hat and all. The shower floor turned red brown.
We all did a heap of washing and rested. That night we ate across the road.
The next day we went into town to buy supplies at the great market.
We also needed money. The only ATM in town would not except our cards so we had to exchange some US currency. They too did not want to know about my old US 20’s.
After we had got all we wanted at the markets we decided to spend another night here.
They rest of the day was just spent relaxing. I hand washed another load of items from my kitchen gear and other things not so dirty but not having been washed for some time.
Dinner was at the same restaurant.
Mosquitos here in the town were almost non existent, our nets were not used.
25/7/2015 Kibondo to bush camp past River Malagarasi
D70, T4.5 Av14.44 , max58, 43,470 8,290
Road has improved, dust only when vehicles passing, dry but not too hot
We were up early and more than ready to get going. We had to reluctantly buy water in town.
The water at the hotel was only good for cooking and washing. Some was however taken , for lunch and washing.
The profile told us we had quite an easy ride ahead of us
Riding was indeed a lot easier now, the last day into Kibondo was really hard with a steep little climb just into town.
Cassava was being dried in piles along the roadside, while more was in bags ready to be picked up.
One village also grew tobacco, here the children did not look to well. The driver told me their cooking methods are poor. The children had runny noses and bloated stomachs, but like all kids they had smiles on their faces and were easy to get a laugh from.
The tobacco is hauled to Kigoma and from there sold around the outlying areas.
A turn off was made into the Moyowosi Game reserve that was close to the road. We saw no animals but had fun with a bunch of kids in the forest.
We came across the river Muragarazi, it was a perfect site for camping, locals said there were crocs here. So we went 10km up the road and found a track into the scrubby forest. We kept riding up here till we found a spot that was not parched black from fire.
Much of this country is being burnt or has been burnt.
The terrain is now very open with expansive views being offered at high points. Animal life is almost nil. I was told there are a few buffalo about but no other large animals.
We met a man on his bike heading in, he did not mind us being here.
26/7/2015 Bush camp past River Malagarasi to Quarry camp 30 km east of Kasulu
D51, T3.5 Av13.44 , max58, 43,522 8,341
Road has improved, dust only when vehicles passing, dry but not too hot, easy riding
The camp had been visited by no one all night. The temperatures are great for sleeping. I am presently using my mesh inner in my Hilleberg Soulo. It offers good air movement in the night. Mosquitos are still not a real problem. Just before dusk last night flies were a big problem getting in our eyes, as soon as it darkened they disappeared. It is remarkable how insect free this trip has been so far. Apart from the flies in Sudan on the road, there really has been no annoyances. Even mosquitos have not been too ravenous.
Nearing one village, an elderly man was riding a bicycle with a half filled bag of maize,on the carrier. He was 71 years of age and very spritely, Daniel and I talked at length. He was taking the maize to one of his sons in the village, some 10 km away. He had 12 children. On this occasion, I gave him some money to buy a few things. We arranged to meet at the markets.
We had lunch in a tiny little shed here, Daniel came up to say hi, he was extremely happy, the money had been used to do some repairs on his bicycle.
Out here on the B8, bicycles are an important part of life. The road is hot overly hilly and they can be used in most places. People just push them up the hills.
Firewood, water and green plantain bananas are the most common loads.
Our biggest problem out here is speeding vehicles, they slow down for no one. The locals here must have terrible breathing problems here in the dry season. When a large truck passes, the first few seconds it is like having fine sand infront of your face, then visibility drops down to a metre, no more.
Our neck warmers are worn over our faces much of the time.
We passed a turnoff to another refugee camp for Burundians. This was sponsored by many of the wealthy nations, Australia included.
In a small village, some of the donated items were being sold, things like dates from the UAE, mosquito nets and foldable water containers.
Here we bought cold sodas, A huge UN Volvo six wheel drive truck and trailer pulled up, it was nice not to have met this on the road.
The high tech oil we have for our chains is not copping with the dust so we stopped to buy some small containers of general purpose oil.
We are having to oil our chains up to four times a day .
Luckily Bens seat has not given us any more problems.
Our nights camp was found in a roadside quarry, it was clean, as they usually are and away from the road. Pasta and fried sweet potatoes were enjoyed for dinner.
27/7/2015 Quarry camp 30 km east of Kasulu to road construction camp
D64, T4.3 Av13.84 , max50, 43,586 8,405
Road has improved, dust only when vehicles passing, dry but not too hot, easy riding.
We woke up to an unusually cold morning with a heavy dew on our tents.
Again villages were common along the road and wells were located conveniently. There are always people gathered around these life giving fixtures.
In one village, school children were wandering along the road. On stopping they all gathered around. The moment they see a camera they all scatter, they all laugh and take off as fast as they can. Only the brave ones stay.
The road was becoming corrugated in places which is very difficult and uncomfortable riding. On arrival in Kasulu we bought supplies and had lunch. Vendors were selling pineapples from cart, we enjoyed two of these each. The MTN bank had a huge line up at the ATM so we did not try it.
We came across a small creek and had another good wash in here fully clothed.
As the day wore on I had started getting low on water so some was bought in a small village. This stretch had no wells after the first 10km.
Late in the day we started looking for a camp. It is important to find the areas where no one is living. Missing one can mean another long ride.
We came across a compound where a Chinese road building company was based. They kindly let us camp under the awning of a new dwelling. There was plenty of water available but as usual it was not potable, only to be used in cooking.
28/7/2015 Road construction camp to Kigoma, on Lake Tanganyika
Mapinduzi Lodge (excellent budget lodging)
D72, T4.3 Av15.59 , max53, 43,657 8,477
Still dusty but generally downhill, asphalt 35km from camp.
The nights sleep under the awning of the new dwelling was superb, there was a breeze funnelling around our tents which made for a cozy sleep.
We took our time leaving, the workers came over to greet us.
Out on the road we rode on the newly constructed side for some distance, this was vehicle free.
Once back one the road proper, the same dust clouds were behind every vehicle. The road was variable, one spot would be smooth, then half way along the straight it would become lumpy with rocks protruding from the surface, then we would arrive at an area of bull dust which is deep and difficult to ride through.
The edges of the road are steep to allow water to freely drain from its centre. The most dangerous situation is when a semi is passing, falling off onto the road on these slopes could see one getting hit by the truck, the driver would never know. On occasions, we stop for trucks. Visibilty is zero just on their passing.
Coming down to the bottom of one descent was a river, here was a creek with sufficient flow for a swim. Many of the streams and creeks crossed have a slight milky appearance. This is an indication they are utilized upstream for household activities, including washing and the removal of grey water.
This once pristine creek was no different. It did not stop us from swimming in it and washing our clothes. We stopped here for lunch. I had noodles and soya chunks and we all had a cup of tea.
Climbing out of here was bull dust. Luckily we made it through before any vehicles came by to coat our damp clothes in the dust.
Coming into another small village named Kidahwe, people were rushing the odd taxi and bus that came by with things to sell.
Here we stopped for fresh pineapples, I had two they were that good.
Some few km past here up ahead, was something, I had completely forgot about, asphalt, how good was this. The people at the Chinese construction camp had told us that there was asphalt up ahead.
It was so good to be free of the dust. Though riding on the road for the last week was never boring, as concentration was needed most of the way, especially downhill.
There were some steep sections on this final 30km to Kigoma. We stopped for fresh coconut milk from the fruit in one town.
Further up the road, riding alone, a goat crossed the road, another followed it. Right before my eyes, a Pro Box hit it square on .The poor animal was trapped underneath for a hundred metres or more then came out from under the vehicle. It was still alive. It sat on the side of the road, shocked unable to get up. Then started bleating. Had people been around I would have offered my knife to put the crying animal out of pain. I dare not do this with no one about, in case they thought I just killed it and would have to pay up.
Riding on we still had plenty of small climbs before getting into Kigoma. The sight of the lake was something special. This had been a journey within a journey, never to be forgotten. The road provided us with an insight into rural life here in northern Tanzania. The people encountered along the way were always friendly. The children were inquisitive and loved our presence, but always scattered when they saw our cameras come out.
We stopped for chilled coke. Next was finally to get some money from an ATM.
Max withdrawal from the commerce bank was 400,000 bob.
We spent time talking with two French couples who were backpacking.
Asking around we soon found the Mapinduzi Lodge, just down from the MTN bank.
Here we got basic but clean single rooms for 6000/night.
We quickly unloaded our bikes and headed off on them to see the sun set over the lake. We were to late, but what a beautiful evening on the lake shores. We enjoyed two icy Serengeti beers and an omelette with chips metres from the calm expanse of water.
We washed the bikes in the lake.
This ride for all of us was quite an achievement given the conditions, we all felt elated to say the least.
For me, being here on the shores of this famous body of water, which is the second largest freshwater lake by volume, the second deepest, and the world’s longest. All after lake Baikal in Serbia, was something made even more exciting by the fact that my two sons, Callum and Ben were here at this table sharing a cold beer and a good chat about the last week getting here.
We rode back to the guesthouse in the dark, all the eateries in town were closed.
Who cared, we were tired and had comfy beds to sleep in.
Here in Tanzania, people eat early and get up early.
21/7/2015 Nyakasanza to bush camp 12km before Kigoma turnoff
D79, T4.5 Av16 , max59, 43,293 8,250
The sou easter continues to blow cooling air, hot and clear 27-30 degrees
Our hotel was a great place, comfortable beds and no mosquitos, our nets were not even used.
We went back to the guys cleaning trucks and loaded up with good water before leaving.
There were trucks everywhere like last night.
I filled my fuel bottle at a newly constructed gas station just out of town.
The road was in quite a bad state with dirt patches, truck movements were becoming quite heavy. A driver told me it is a six day round trip from Dar es Salaam to Kigali and back.
They all carry charcoal and cook their own meals. Many carry plantain bananas back to the coast.
The dry season sou easter is in our faces, it is a fresh little wind and keeps us pedalling on the slight descents. It is cool and takes the heat off the day .
We bought tomatoes at one isolated little village in this dry landscape that is so different from Rwanda.
There are sparodic fires burning in the bush along the way. Much of the grassy small treed landscape has been recently burnt.
The houses out here are mainly constructed of adobe. Life appears very hard out here with little variety in peoples diets. The only things for sale on the roadside are tomatoes and sweet potatoes between villages.
Bens bike seat bolt broke again, very luckily we had bought the spare set up in Kigali. We replaced the set up completely.
All this happened just a few km from Nyabugombe, here we stopped for goat, rice and plantain, Ben bought a spare bolt for his seat. We also bought a good supply of roasted peanuts and stopped in a bar for cool water and soda.
The road continued to have flat sections and some gentle climbs. I stopped in one village, soon a large group of children surrounded me. These kids are really part of the land, they have dusty clothes on and are generally in bare feet, their feet are dirty and as hard as the soles of any shoe. Riding off a few followed me, they pulled at the back of my bike. I then realised they had stole some glucose biscuits I had in a bag, I turned around and rode back into the village on seeing me they all scattered in fear.
Needless to say they enjoyed the takings.
At the turn off in the town of Muzani we stopped for drinks and to buy bananas for breakfast in the morning.
These villages are really just a row of ramshackle buildings on the roadside. Kids were selling bottles of honey at the intersection.
From here we found ourselves very tired. We had ridden a few big distances since Kigali. Coming to a bushy uninhabited area on our left we inspected it as a potential campsite. It was perfect, no people about. We left the road unseen.
Once we had our tents set up in the dry bush, of all things a fire broke out on the ridge above. We watched this closely. Luckily it burnt along the top of the range as we went to bed.
A big pasta dish was enjoyed. We had plenty of water so enjoyed a few hot drinks. I was quite dehydrated. Hot chocolate is so nice at times like this .
Our minds were on the fire as we went to bed.
22/7/2015 Bush camp before Nyakanazi turnoff to Kakonko
D59, T4 Av14.08 , max46, 43,352 8,230
Hot and dusty, wind now just behind our left shoulder , hot and dry air early afternoon
The camp was a great spot we were undisturbed all night. It was nice to be able to take our time leaving, again no one arrived. To be able to do things like this without an audience is such a privilege here in Africa so far.
The fire on the hill had almost burnt itself out in the cool over night air.
No one even saw us leave the site. Two kilometres down the road people were everywhere. We were lucky to have found this bush site that only had livestock tracks through it.
It was an easy ride to the turnoff and the busy town of Nyakanazi. Here we stopped for chapatti, water and other supplies. I bought honey from the girls on the corner who were selling all sorts of things to passing buses and truck drivers. We also bought bananas. The score of the day was Nido milk powder at half the price as in Rwanda.
This main road is really a mess with dirt patches and potholes in many places. It is dangerous going down hills with to much speed.
The trucks really cause a lot of damage to the asphalt.
The guys bought water in town whilst I filled my bladder and bottles at a large water container, the water was used for washing but was ok after filtration. This I did to some before leaving.
Immediately the road deteriorated to a talcum powder fine dusty ochre coloured road.
The first 15-20 km they were constructing a new section so we got to ride on this smooth surface that vehicles were not using. They were on the bumpy original road. It was something of an obstacle course as we had to ride around piles of dirt and new culvert constructions.
People were wandering along the road as usual but nowhere in the numbers as in Rwanda. There were areas where people were few.
The dust was thick in places, the few trucks that passed gave us a real sprinkling. As usual the buses were flying passed seemingly out of control at times.
We bought veges here for the nights camping.
From here we rode on to a side track and rode a few hundred metres from the road and stopped for lunch and to reflect on the market. It was such a reminder we were in Africa.
Here we dried the tents and had a huge cook up for lunch, Cal had rice with sardines and I had a bowl of sadines and all the veges.
Ben still a bit disorganised had our left overs. We joke about his disorganisation. He often eats dry noodles for lunch but is getting better.
I emptied my milk powder into bags. Never leaving rubbish anywhere including tea bags. The empty milk tin and plastic lid was left on the track for someone. The people could use this.
The only thing left at a camp site is the toilet paper we use. I try to put this under a rock or at least out of sight.
On my handle bars I have a stubby holder for waster paper and chewing gum during the day. Riding against the light sou easter makes my mouth incredibly dry. Chewing gum is a huge help in keeping it moist.
Coming to a bridge, there were a group of people swimming in the waters below. Here we stopped, Cal and I went straight in for a dip in the surprisingly cool and refreshing dark brown waters. A vehicle and a Yamaha Ag bike pulled up. Three German guys were also on their way to Kigoma. We stopped and talked with them for an hour.
They were on a three week trip in a rental car from Uganda. We hoped to see them in Kigoma but more than likely will see them on their way bak on this 300km trip through to Kigoma.
This road is a great insight into isolated rural life out here. People were growing cotton in places and sorghum. It was being dried and stacked on the roadside in small villages in places. It was nice to see donkeys and carts again.
As the sun was going down we got to Kikonko and checked out a couple of guesthouses that were over priced. We found a fantastic place,the K.Mbuna guesthouse, here we camped in the back yard.
They had a generator so a few items were charged. I watched a bit of TV, Obama had just visited Kenya and Ethiopia.
The mossies here were thick and had found their way into our tents.
I tried one of the sachets of brandy before going to bed, not bad for twelve hundred bob, about 80c Australian. We had another great pasta and fried potatoes for entree.
The frypan I carry is coming in ever so handy.
My tent was set up under a pergola at the back so dew and condensation were not a problem.
23,24/7/2015 Kakonko to Kibondo
D49, T33.5 Av12.49 , max51, 43,400 8,220
Clear warm day, sou easter blowing , hot and dry air early afternoon
DUST and more DUST!!
It had been a comfortable night in the hotel, camping always provides for a good nights sleep.
We took our time here and left about 1130.
My clic stand broke, so an hour was spent looking for a half moon shape that supports the bar. In the end a part from bike brakes here was used. Which is better than the plastic original part.
A couple of new steering dampener springs were also bought.
The road was very dusty. Every time a bus went past we got covered. It was a slow steady climb mixed with small down hill areas. The road is really only one way. It has sloping sides to remove water quickly in times of rain. If we get on these edges we usually come off.
The aggregate is round and slippery.
Patches in the road were deep red bulldust. These were impossible to ride through. By now we were covered in the red dust. Ben especially funny with white patches on his face where his sunglasses were.
Again there were many small villages along the way, most not on any of the maps we had.
In one village, we stopped for a drink. We needed tomatoes and onion. The locals took us across the road and behind some houses was a sight never seen before. Here was this market like the Marakesh souk. There were people in all sorts of coloured clothes packed shoulder to shoulder, buying selling and talking. There were goats everywhere for sale, chooks tied up for the same reason. We had to push our way through the crowds with our bikes.
Once a spot to park them was found . I went to buy what we needed.
The boys were completely surrounded by people by the time I got back.
We slowly left this bizarre scene. Back on the road we stopped in a few km down a side track and had a great lunch break in I relative peace. I emptied my milk can. This was left on the side of the track, as someone may have a use for it.
By the time we arrived in Kibondo we were completely covered in dust and totally dried out. I had stopped just before the last climb into the town and bought a pineapple to moisten my parched throat.
Here we stopped at a small shop and sat outside and enjoyed 2 icy pepsis each. They tasted so good.
In town we looked for a motel and settled on the AB Guesthouse, at 15,000 shilling a night it was costly, but very comfortable.
We got in there and I just walked under the shower fully clothed, peak hat and all. The shower floor turned red brown.
We all did a heap of washing and rested. That night we ate across the road.
The next day we went into town to buy supplies at the great market.
We also needed money. The only ATM in town would not except our cards so we had to exchange some US currency. They too did not want to know about my old US 20’s.
After we had got all we wanted at the markets we decided to spend another night here.
They rest of the day was just spent relaxing. I hand washed another load of items from my kitchen gear and other things not so dirty but not having been washed for some time.
Dinner was at the same restaurant.
Mosquitos here in the town were almost non existent, our nets were not used.
25/7/2015 Kibondo to bush camp past River Malagarasi
D70, T4.5 Av14.44 , max58, 43,470 8,290
Road has improved, dust only when vehicles passing, dry but not too hot
We were up early and more than ready to get going. We had to reluctantly buy water in town.
The water at the hotel was only good for cooking and washing. Some was however taken , for lunch and washing.
The profile told us we had quite an easy ride ahead of us
Riding was indeed a lot easier now, the last day into Kibondo was really hard with a steep little climb just into town.
Cassava was being dried in piles along the roadside, while more was in bags ready to be picked up.
One village also grew tobacco, here the children did not look to well. The driver told me their cooking methods are poor. The children had runny noses and bloated stomachs, but like all kids they had smiles on their faces and were easy to get a laugh from.
The tobacco is hauled to Kigoma and from there sold around the outlying areas.
A turn off was made into the Moyowosi Game reserve that was close to the road. We saw no animals but had fun with a bunch of kids in the forest.
We came across the river Muragarazi, it was a perfect site for camping, locals said there were crocs here. So we went 10km up the road and found a track into the scrubby forest. We kept riding up here till we found a spot that was not parched black from fire.
Much of this country is being burnt or has been burnt.
The terrain is now very open with expansive views being offered at high points. Animal life is almost nil. I was told there are a few buffalo about but no other large animals.
We met a man on his bike heading in, he did not mind us being here.
26/7/2015 Bush camp past River Malagarasi to Quarry camp 30 km east of Kasulu
D51, T3.5 Av13.44 , max58, 43,522 8,341
Road has improved, dust only when vehicles passing, dry but not too hot, easy riding
The camp had been visited by no one all night. The temperatures are great for sleeping. I am presently using my mesh inner in my Hilleberg Soulo. It offers good air movement in the night. Mosquitos are still not a real problem. Just before dusk last night flies were a big problem getting in our eyes, as soon as it darkened they disappeared. It is remarkable how insect free this trip has been so far. Apart from the flies in Sudan on the road, there really has been no annoyances. Even mosquitos have not been too ravenous.
Nearing one village, an elderly man was riding a bicycle with a half filled bag of maize,on the carrier. He was 71 years of age and very spritely, Daniel and I talked at length. He was taking the maize to one of his sons in the village, some 10 km away. He had 12 children. On this occasion, I gave him some money to buy a few things. We arranged to meet at the markets.
We had lunch in a tiny little shed here, Daniel came up to say hi, he was extremely happy, the money had been used to do some repairs on his bicycle.
Out here on the B8, bicycles are an important part of life. The road is hot overly hilly and they can be used in most places. People just push them up the hills.
Firewood, water and green plantain bananas are the most common loads.
Our biggest problem out here is speeding vehicles, they slow down for no one. The locals here must have terrible breathing problems here in the dry season. When a large truck passes, the first few seconds it is like having fine sand infront of your face, then visibility drops down to a metre, no more.
Our neck warmers are worn over our faces much of the time.
We passed a turnoff to another refugee camp for Burundians. This was sponsored by many of the wealthy nations, Australia included.
In a small village, some of the donated items were being sold, things like dates from the UAE, mosquito nets and foldable water containers.
Here we bought cold sodas, A huge UN Volvo six wheel drive truck and trailer pulled up, it was nice not to have met this on the road.
The high tech oil we have for our chains is not copping with the dust so we stopped to buy some small containers of general purpose oil.
We are having to oil our chains up to four times a day .
Luckily Bens seat has not given us any more problems.
Our nights camp was found in a roadside quarry, it was clean, as they usually are and away from the road. Pasta and fried sweet potatoes were enjoyed for dinner.
27/7/2015 Quarry camp 30 km east of Kasulu to road construction camp
D64, T4.3 Av13.84 , max50, 43,586 8,405
Road has improved, dust only when vehicles passing, dry but not too hot, easy riding.
We woke up to an unusually cold morning with a heavy dew on our tents.
Again villages were common along the road and wells were located conveniently. There are always people gathered around these life giving fixtures.
In one village, school children were wandering along the road. On stopping they all gathered around. The moment they see a camera they all scatter, they all laugh and take off as fast as they can. Only the brave ones stay.
The road was becoming corrugated in places which is very difficult and uncomfortable riding. On arrival in Kasulu we bought supplies and had lunch. Vendors were selling pineapples from cart, we enjoyed two of these each. The MTN bank had a huge line up at the ATM so we did not try it.
We came across a small creek and had another good wash in here fully clothed.
As the day wore on I had started getting low on water so some was bought in a small village. This stretch had no wells after the first 10km.
Late in the day we started looking for a camp. It is important to find the areas where no one is living. Missing one can mean another long ride.
We came across a compound where a Chinese road building company was based. They kindly let us camp under the awning of a new dwelling. There was plenty of water available but as usual it was not potable, only to be used in cooking.
28/7/2015 Road construction camp to Kigoma, on Lake Tanganyika
Mapinduzi Lodge (excellent budget lodging)
D72, T4.3 Av15.59 , max53, 43,657 8,477
Still dusty but generally downhill, asphalt 35km from camp.
The nights sleep under the awning of the new dwelling was superb, there was a breeze funnelling around our tents which made for a cozy sleep.
We took our time leaving, the workers came over to greet us.
Out on the road we rode on the newly constructed side for some distance, this was vehicle free.
Once back one the road proper, the same dust clouds were behind every vehicle. The road was variable, one spot would be smooth, then half way along the straight it would become lumpy with rocks protruding from the surface, then we would arrive at an area of bull dust which is deep and difficult to ride through.
The edges of the road are steep to allow water to freely drain from its centre. The most dangerous situation is when a semi is passing, falling off onto the road on these slopes could see one getting hit by the truck, the driver would never know. On occasions, we stop for trucks. Visibilty is zero just on their passing.
Coming down to the bottom of one descent was a river, here was a creek with sufficient flow for a swim. Many of the streams and creeks crossed have a slight milky appearance. This is an indication they are utilized upstream for household activities, including washing and the removal of grey water.
This once pristine creek was no different. It did not stop us from swimming in it and washing our clothes. We stopped here for lunch. I had noodles and soya chunks and we all had a cup of tea.
Climbing out of here was bull dust. Luckily we made it through before any vehicles came by to coat our damp clothes in the dust.
Coming into another small village named Kidahwe, people were rushing the odd taxi and bus that came by with things to sell.
Here we stopped for fresh pineapples, I had two they were that good.
Some few km past here up ahead, was something, I had completely forgot about, asphalt, how good was this. The people at the Chinese construction camp had told us that there was asphalt up ahead.
It was so good to be free of the dust. Though riding on the road for the last week was never boring, as concentration was needed most of the way, especially downhill.
There were some steep sections on this final 30km to Kigoma. We stopped for fresh coconut milk from the fruit in one town.
Further up the road, riding alone, a goat crossed the road, another followed it. Right before my eyes, a Pro Box hit it square on .The poor animal was trapped underneath for a hundred metres or more then came out from under the vehicle. It was still alive. It sat on the side of the road, shocked unable to get up. Then started bleating. Had people been around I would have offered my knife to put the crying animal out of pain. I dare not do this with no one about, in case they thought I just killed it and would have to pay up.
Riding on we still had plenty of small climbs before getting into Kigoma. The sight of the lake was something special. This had been a journey within a journey, never to be forgotten. The road provided us with an insight into rural life here in northern Tanzania. The people encountered along the way were always friendly. The children were inquisitive and loved our presence, but always scattered when they saw our cameras come out.
We stopped for chilled coke. Next was finally to get some money from an ATM.
Max withdrawal from the commerce bank was 400,000 bob.
We spent time talking with two French couples who were backpacking.
Asking around we soon found the Mapinduzi Lodge, just down from the MTN bank.
Here we got basic but clean single rooms for 6000/night.
We quickly unloaded our bikes and headed off on them to see the sun set over the lake. We were to late, but what a beautiful evening on the lake shores. We enjoyed two icy Serengeti beers and an omelette with chips metres from the calm expanse of water.
We washed the bikes in the lake.
This ride for all of us was quite an achievement given the conditions, we all felt elated to say the least.
For me, being here on the shores of this famous body of water, which is the second largest freshwater lake by volume, the second deepest, and the world’s longest. All after lake Baikal in Serbia, was something made even more exciting by the fact that my two sons, Callum and Ben were here at this table sharing a cold beer and a good chat about the last week getting here.
We rode back to the guesthouse in the dark, all the eateries in town were closed.
Who cared, we were tired and had comfy beds to sleep in.
Here in Tanzania, people eat early and get up early.
