17/7/2013 Cuzco to nth of Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
D 68, T4/6, Av17, Max63 Tot 16323, 6259
Fine, 25 degrees, mild evening.
Yesterday while cleaning Deirdres chain and derailleur, it was found the rollers on the derailleur were really sloppy.
The last thing we wanted was this to fail in Bolivia, I knew of a bike shop here in Cuzco.
We bought a new one and had it fitted in the evening .
We got away from the Inn at about 0930. Both keen to get on the road.
For me it was great to be heading south again. Whilst in Cuzco few other tourist attractions other than Machu Picchu were visited.
It was nice to be indoors a lot of the time.
Interactions on the road with ordinary people overwhelmingly curtail any need to visit places that receive an endless number of visitors year in year out.
It was great to be riding together again.
Leaving Cuzco we were subjected to a cocktail of motor vehicle fumes, diesel being the mixer, all the rest were the nips.
It was nice to be back in the country again, the road was undulating, offering an easy ride for both of us.
It was enjoyable riding again with Deirdre. Enjoying a snack of bread, tuna and beef jerky by a small stream we both basked in the freedom of what lay ahead for us.
The countryside was dry and brown with people harvesting maize in many paddocks.
We bumped into a Spanish guy, who was riding from Lima to La Paz.
It was the first time he had been away from his family, he said he was missing his boys.
We rode together for awhile, our pace was probably a bit leisurely for him.
Regardless, it is always nice to see other riders on the road.
Coming into Ocros we stopped for lunch of Minestrone soup, mighty fine it was.
At one point we heard the familiar sound of a train blowing its whistle.
The Cuzco to Puno line was following the road for sometime.
This train ferries people from Cuzco to the Titicaca area.
The sound reminded me of days following the Mississippi, it is a sound that always conjures up romanticism.
Don McLean’s song, City of New Orleans, romanticises this famous train.
We were following the valley of the rio Vilcanota for quite awhile, it is quite a clean river.
People were rafting on it.
Deirdre was starting to feel quite tired about 1630 due to the altitude , we bought water and started looking for a camp site.
Up ahead a reasonable climb could be seen.
On our right were a stand of small coppiced Eucalypts on the river bed.
The deep kerbside gutter blocked our access. A bit further up the road we were able to access the site.
It proved to be the perfect campsite, on the river, sheltered and private.
The evening was so mild.
With the tarp free standing on poles and the tent beneath it, pretty much ensured packing a dry tent in the morning.
The evening was unusually mild and insect free, it was bliss
18/7/2013 North of Quiquijana to Sicuana
D77, T7, Av 16, Max 53, Tot16399, 6333
Fine mild, cooler near Sicuani
The weather has really settled down, it was a mild morning, it was great to be able to do the washing up in the river, usually water has to be conserved.
On wheeling the bikes out on to the road again and following Deirdre, it was immediately noticeable she had a buckled rear wheel.
On closer inspection a broken spoke was found to be the problem.
Luckily it was not located on the cassette side of the rim.
Not wanting to be near traffic, we wheeled the bikes off the road into a flat area and proceeded to replace the spoke and true the rear wheel.
Neither of us had done this before.
I had some videos stored on my computer that explained wheel truing that I had seen earlier.
Luckily we both carried spare spokes.
An hour later we left the site, both of us a little wiser with regards to bicycle repairs and Deirdre with a wheel as true as the sun will rise tomorrow.
We were both rather impressed with our efforts.
The riding again was relatively easy with undulating hills, all the while following the Rio Vilcanota.
Arriving in Ocros in a bitterly cold wind, a meal each of quarter of a chook was enjoyed.
Before leaving we rugged up accordingly.
Some 15 km before Sicuani we were encountering head winds on flat road, it was hard work. We obtained water to camp, not knowing if we would make the town.
About 1700 we arrived on the outskirts and asked if we could camp in a tech college, unfortunately the guy who could give us permission was not about, we continued on into the town.
Looking for ground level lodgings as usual.
The most basic of hospedajes was booked, you’d have been lucky to swing a cuy in the room.
Needless to say ablutions were kept to a minimum, though at the end of the day it was shelter and warmth, after all that that was the object of the exercise.
19/7/2013 Sicuani, 7km south and back again
D20, T1.4, Av12, Max 31Tot16420, 6353
Up early and packed, the plan was to ride casually most of the way to the top of the range which is 4353m and camp, thereby riding over the tops during the heat of the day the next day.
Leaving town after a Manzana y Quinua warm drink and a beef and vege stew with rice, all enjoyed kerbside.
The road was an ever so slight climb, almost unnoticeable. Deirdre was off ahead.
The day was another text book Peruvian winters day, cool morning, rapidly warming and clear skies.
Some 200m behind and seeing Deirdre stopped on the side of the road, she was calling out to say “I have been bitten by a dog, watch for it”. The dog was standing on the kerb outside a gas station. Taking a wide berth, it made no attempt to harass me.
The dog, looking fairly feral, appeared to have owners.
Stopping alongside her, looking at the wound on her right leg, though small, blood was present.
We both knew, we had no choice but to return and visit the hospital and enquire as to the possibility of her having contracted rabies.
On the way back we noticed the subtle climbing we had done to this point.
The consequences of this incident were beginning to sink in, those of a possible severe risk to her well being and the probable need to stay in Sicuano for an extended period during the administering of a rabies vaccine.
The hospital was reasonably modern, we were directed to outpatients and were pretty much attended to immediately.
Unlike hospitals in many western countries, that can be gathering places for hypochondriacs and those with spare time.
There were few other people waiting. Wandering around markets here in Peru, there are many stalls selling all manner of alternative medicines.
Or maybe lifestyles led by many people here are not condusive to health problems that require a hospital visit.
They dressed and thorough cleaned the wound.
A couple of hospital staff took me back to the gas station to see if we could find the dog.
That we did, and the woman present was spoken to, her boss owned the dog and he was a pet.
During time there the dog was with us, as placid and friendly as a baby.
The staff took photos and explained the situation.
Back at the hospital, the doctor explained all was ok.
He said that they would test the dog and if he died in ten days he was indeed rabid.
Deirdre would then need the vaccine.
We were not very comfortable with this procedure.
Western health authorities, suggest immediate attention with vaccines following a bite if the animal is suspected of having rabies.
They said carry on riding and took my number, we had to keep in touch as we proceeded south.
Back in town were we both at sorts, not really comfortable with the outcome.
It was decided to get a second opinion.
Visiting a doctor in town, he assured us that we didn’t have to much to worry about.
A rabies vaccination programme for dogs has been implemented here in Peru for some years.
That the dog was a pet also helped, along with our identifying it.
He prescribed Deirdre amoxyl and said all will be good.
We both felt alot better after this second opinion.
Booking a hostal right next door to last nights edition, we both laughed when realising it had taken almost all day to travel 5 metres.
Really, we both felt relieved at the final outcome.
Though we will be keeping in touch with Bernard from the hospital here.
He instructed us not to ring in the evenings as he has 3 wives and six children to attend to!
A good meal was enjoyed in town. It had been a day that brought home some of the realities of extended travel, where the chances of unplanned events increase.
The Peruano health professionals we encountered were to be thanked.
Deirdre will be fine one way or the other. It will be great news to hear the dog is likewise in ten days time.
D 68, T4/6, Av17, Max63 Tot 16323, 6259
Fine, 25 degrees, mild evening.
Yesterday while cleaning Deirdres chain and derailleur, it was found the rollers on the derailleur were really sloppy.
The last thing we wanted was this to fail in Bolivia, I knew of a bike shop here in Cuzco.
We bought a new one and had it fitted in the evening .
We got away from the Inn at about 0930. Both keen to get on the road.
For me it was great to be heading south again. Whilst in Cuzco few other tourist attractions other than Machu Picchu were visited.
It was nice to be indoors a lot of the time.
Interactions on the road with ordinary people overwhelmingly curtail any need to visit places that receive an endless number of visitors year in year out.
It was great to be riding together again.
Leaving Cuzco we were subjected to a cocktail of motor vehicle fumes, diesel being the mixer, all the rest were the nips.
It was nice to be back in the country again, the road was undulating, offering an easy ride for both of us.
It was enjoyable riding again with Deirdre. Enjoying a snack of bread, tuna and beef jerky by a small stream we both basked in the freedom of what lay ahead for us.
The countryside was dry and brown with people harvesting maize in many paddocks.
We bumped into a Spanish guy, who was riding from Lima to La Paz.
It was the first time he had been away from his family, he said he was missing his boys.
We rode together for awhile, our pace was probably a bit leisurely for him.
Regardless, it is always nice to see other riders on the road.
Coming into Ocros we stopped for lunch of Minestrone soup, mighty fine it was.
At one point we heard the familiar sound of a train blowing its whistle.
The Cuzco to Puno line was following the road for sometime.
This train ferries people from Cuzco to the Titicaca area.
The sound reminded me of days following the Mississippi, it is a sound that always conjures up romanticism.
Don McLean’s song, City of New Orleans, romanticises this famous train.
We were following the valley of the rio Vilcanota for quite awhile, it is quite a clean river.
People were rafting on it.
Deirdre was starting to feel quite tired about 1630 due to the altitude , we bought water and started looking for a camp site.
Up ahead a reasonable climb could be seen.
On our right were a stand of small coppiced Eucalypts on the river bed.
The deep kerbside gutter blocked our access. A bit further up the road we were able to access the site.
It proved to be the perfect campsite, on the river, sheltered and private.
The evening was so mild.
With the tarp free standing on poles and the tent beneath it, pretty much ensured packing a dry tent in the morning.
The evening was unusually mild and insect free, it was bliss
18/7/2013 North of Quiquijana to Sicuana
D77, T7, Av 16, Max 53, Tot16399, 6333
Fine mild, cooler near Sicuani
The weather has really settled down, it was a mild morning, it was great to be able to do the washing up in the river, usually water has to be conserved.
On wheeling the bikes out on to the road again and following Deirdre, it was immediately noticeable she had a buckled rear wheel.
On closer inspection a broken spoke was found to be the problem.
Luckily it was not located on the cassette side of the rim.
Not wanting to be near traffic, we wheeled the bikes off the road into a flat area and proceeded to replace the spoke and true the rear wheel.
Neither of us had done this before.
I had some videos stored on my computer that explained wheel truing that I had seen earlier.
Luckily we both carried spare spokes.
An hour later we left the site, both of us a little wiser with regards to bicycle repairs and Deirdre with a wheel as true as the sun will rise tomorrow.
We were both rather impressed with our efforts.
The riding again was relatively easy with undulating hills, all the while following the Rio Vilcanota.
Arriving in Ocros in a bitterly cold wind, a meal each of quarter of a chook was enjoyed.
Before leaving we rugged up accordingly.
Some 15 km before Sicuani we were encountering head winds on flat road, it was hard work. We obtained water to camp, not knowing if we would make the town.
About 1700 we arrived on the outskirts and asked if we could camp in a tech college, unfortunately the guy who could give us permission was not about, we continued on into the town.
Looking for ground level lodgings as usual.
The most basic of hospedajes was booked, you’d have been lucky to swing a cuy in the room.
Needless to say ablutions were kept to a minimum, though at the end of the day it was shelter and warmth, after all that that was the object of the exercise.
19/7/2013 Sicuani, 7km south and back again
D20, T1.4, Av12, Max 31Tot16420, 6353
Up early and packed, the plan was to ride casually most of the way to the top of the range which is 4353m and camp, thereby riding over the tops during the heat of the day the next day.
Leaving town after a Manzana y Quinua warm drink and a beef and vege stew with rice, all enjoyed kerbside.
The road was an ever so slight climb, almost unnoticeable. Deirdre was off ahead.
The day was another text book Peruvian winters day, cool morning, rapidly warming and clear skies.
Some 200m behind and seeing Deirdre stopped on the side of the road, she was calling out to say “I have been bitten by a dog, watch for it”. The dog was standing on the kerb outside a gas station. Taking a wide berth, it made no attempt to harass me.
The dog, looking fairly feral, appeared to have owners.
Stopping alongside her, looking at the wound on her right leg, though small, blood was present.
We both knew, we had no choice but to return and visit the hospital and enquire as to the possibility of her having contracted rabies.
On the way back we noticed the subtle climbing we had done to this point.
The consequences of this incident were beginning to sink in, those of a possible severe risk to her well being and the probable need to stay in Sicuano for an extended period during the administering of a rabies vaccine.
The hospital was reasonably modern, we were directed to outpatients and were pretty much attended to immediately.
Unlike hospitals in many western countries, that can be gathering places for hypochondriacs and those with spare time.
There were few other people waiting. Wandering around markets here in Peru, there are many stalls selling all manner of alternative medicines.
Or maybe lifestyles led by many people here are not condusive to health problems that require a hospital visit.
They dressed and thorough cleaned the wound.
A couple of hospital staff took me back to the gas station to see if we could find the dog.
That we did, and the woman present was spoken to, her boss owned the dog and he was a pet.
During time there the dog was with us, as placid and friendly as a baby.
The staff took photos and explained the situation.
Back at the hospital, the doctor explained all was ok.
He said that they would test the dog and if he died in ten days he was indeed rabid.
Deirdre would then need the vaccine.
We were not very comfortable with this procedure.
Western health authorities, suggest immediate attention with vaccines following a bite if the animal is suspected of having rabies.
They said carry on riding and took my number, we had to keep in touch as we proceeded south.
Back in town were we both at sorts, not really comfortable with the outcome.
It was decided to get a second opinion.
Visiting a doctor in town, he assured us that we didn’t have to much to worry about.
A rabies vaccination programme for dogs has been implemented here in Peru for some years.
That the dog was a pet also helped, along with our identifying it.
He prescribed Deirdre amoxyl and said all will be good.
We both felt alot better after this second opinion.
Booking a hostal right next door to last nights edition, we both laughed when realising it had taken almost all day to travel 5 metres.
Really, we both felt relieved at the final outcome.
Though we will be keeping in touch with Bernard from the hospital here.
He instructed us not to ring in the evenings as he has 3 wives and six children to attend to!
A good meal was enjoyed in town. It had been a day that brought home some of the realities of extended travel, where the chances of unplanned events increase.
The Peruano health professionals we encountered were to be thanked.
Deirdre will be fine one way or the other. It will be great news to hear the dog is likewise in ten days time.
Excellent campsite on the rio Viclanota, the kitchen.
Logging Peruano fashion, they were sliding the logs down the hill.
All Eucalypts
Typical scenery
Just a nip but such a worry
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Repairing a broken spoke and truing the rear wheel. Near Quiquijana
We found we were a tent pole short, the owner of this timber sold it to us for 1 sole!
Cuy, such an important part of life here
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