20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to a side road on Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
D83, T5/9.5, Av16.23, Max40, tot19436, 10,070
The days are certainly warming up, no longer is the sun so essential in the mornings, though its presence is always cherished, the earlier the better.
Life is now quite easy when you are able to use warm fingers to do small tasks like putting sugar on a spoon.
During the night gravel was falling from the cutting above where the tent was, I had to get used to this noise.
It has now been months since my senses have been on full alert at a camp because of fear of someone or something approaching in the night.
Camping here in South America so far has been so safe and late in the day it is not even a problem as to where one might end up camping, even in a desert or alpine environment.
As said before, the fact that the wind abates in the evenings is so beneficial to camping in exposed sites.
Fences are few and far between.
Leaving at about 0930, my water supply was negligible, as luck would have it, about 5km on there was a clear creek running through the grasses.
Water was filtered here. Though it had a weedy taste it was clear.
The road again was dead straight with a few small climbs. Yesterdays big mileage had taken its affect on me, by about 1230 hunger set in.
A deserted house at Campo Los Pozuelos was utilized for shelter. Mate, sardines and coffee were enjoyed.
The only animals out here were donkeys and a few goats.
Traffic was light with a few mining vehicles and people on motorbikes.
Near the Aerodromo Mina Alumbrera, a guy pulled over and gave me what was left of his bottle of pop.
He was heading to a walnut farm he had in the ranges. Gestures like this are such a pleasure.
Maybe I should put a sign on my bike saying “Bloody near 60, doing it tough!!, all offers of liquid welcome”!
People often ask my age, not one person believes me when I tell them I am forty. I might have to add a few years to this line.
I very rarely use a mirror outdoors, though all this time in the sun has tossed a few years on, especially my legs, they are now a bit wrinkled.
Soon the wind starting picking up to gale force on the starboard forward quarter.
To my left in the desert between me and the ranges, there were dust devils everywhere.
On the road there were areas of pressure, it was hard going.
Soon dust enveloped me.
My camera got saved this time.
From here, there was 36km of gravel and more air laden with dust.
Luckily some was downhill going.
These days, after Peru and Bolivia with days on end of riding on gravel, sometimes up mountains, these obstacles are absolutely nothing.
Venturing into the Andes for extended periods has definitely up my threshold of riding discomforts. This thirty six km was nothing more than part of a days ride.
At Hualfin, an hour was spent talking to the girl from the tienda and supplies for the night were bought, bread, water, avena, potatoes and onions. A guy about my age pulled into the tienda with a flask, he was getting it filled with hot water for his mate. This is such a common practise here in AR. The drink is rather addictive, it is high in caffeine.
Sometimes I find myself wanting a brew.
Leaving Hualfin, the Rio Belén was approached. On the way down a side road was spotted.
Entering here , it was seen to be well used, maybe some farms were up further.
I pulled over and scouted about for a suitable spot, one without cactus spines everywhere.
To date my airbed has been spared. A small dry sandy creek bed was walked up, perfecto, it was soft, thorn free and out of sight.
I covered my tracks up here and settled in to what was a great camp site in amongst low hills.
You tend to feel like an outlaw in these campsites, you know, cacti everywhere, low scrub, rocky outcrops, huge skies, and sand always underfoot.
Dinner was fried potatoes and onions with lots of chilli and garlic, with bread and dulce de leche with coffee and mate.
I took time just to look at the stars and think about life. The southern cross is always with me low in the sky early in the evening.
A few thoughts about it all
It felt so good to be here, just one person, self sufficient in this huge dry dusty part of Northern Argentina. Setting up at night and camping is very natural for me now.
I eat well, am comfortable, nearly always warm, all I need is with me.
My Exped Downmat provides the most comfortable sleep, it truly is as good as any bed, not once have I awoken feeling aches.
The Vango tent, being a 3 manner is roomy and warm. Watching movies, ones mind is fully engrossed. I caught myself not even thinking I was in the wilderness in a cloth walled home, it felt like being in a room in a warm house in the burbs.
Such an ease of locale is now with me. This ease is heightened, knowing that I can stop anywhere and be comfortable.
Though in the background my thoughts are with my health, it is such a gift to be healthy and fit, this I am always thankful for, may it continue.
This existence sees me the healthiest and most positive, in body and mind I have been in for a some time.
The day to day chores of work, paying bills, putting up with painful people, maintaining cars, properties and other possessions really take one into a state of sublime poor health.
Being overly busy all the time, whether socially or workwise for me was not good, I am sure for most people it is the same.
Growing up for me, the word stress was only used by engineers, they have had to find a new term. This word is well and truly out there on the streets, in homes, at work, it is everywhere.
Our 21st century lifestyles demand this, especially if you are a slave to consuming.
You know. Cars, new clothes, holidays that keep perpetuating the cycle on your return home. When I was in that world, a planned holiday was eagerly looked forward to. The time went scarily fast, you had your holiday, had such a good time, it went way to quick, just as you were slotting into the relaxation it was all over. You got home to reality, had bills to pay.
The high of your time out soon left you, time to plan the next trip, and on it goes, and on it will for the rest of your life till you have health problems or can’t afford it.
Most people lead this life, thankfully it is the moments, especially funny warm moments with friends that make it bearable. Sport and exercise is such a great interlude to this existence as well.
Having a purpose or a challenge is so important. Take the need to earn money from your life. What purpose is left? I asked myself this question, many parts of the answer were not what I wanted to hear.
My marriage was not hunky dory, my wife and I could have drifted on together for years, we were comfortable, had lots of friends and two great sons. All that stuff.
One unhappy person in a group or family affects all those near.
Something had to be done. I did not want to be comfortably numb. Escaping on holidays with a bunch of guys was no solution. I tried that!
The result of my actions have left me with a good friend in my wife, still two great sons and an existence for me that is full of adventure, new people, places and a freedom unknown.
A life where each day has new challenges, things like finding water, shelter, the direction, words of a foreign language to explain myself.
To say this existence for me is stimulating, is an understatement.
Human beings are traditionally scared of change, but how many times have you heard someone say “It is the best thing I ever did”.
I feel most people accept this situation and just get old, with a few highlights tossed in just to keep it half interesting, you know maybe a good round of golf, a new car, some easy money, fun holiday, or their team got up.
Or maybe waiting to become a grandparent.
For me, I feel this is really what most people do, if it makes them really truly happy that is all important, I was not.
Of course it is not really this bad, but it bears thought.
Actually, while you have your health later in life, there are not to many long term pursuits outside work that are fulfilling and don't cost a fortune. That is why cycling is so great, it is really bloody slow and financially sustainable, leaving a very small carbon footprint which I like.
I guess I am just different in this respect.
Maybe that’s why there aint a bunch of fifty something old dreamers out on the asphalt just cruising along, enjoying the simple things and always looking for some soft ground out of harm’s way, late in the day!!
Or maybe they are doing different things and just don’t wont to bust themselves up hills on lonely roads in a foreign country on a bicycle for a few years!!
I have always believed. That if one day you woke up and never went back to work. That is your true monetary worth. For many people regardless of age and income, the banks would only be a couple of weeks away from the door, closely followed by real estate people.
Todays, largely, credit funded consumption, gears many people, regardless of income on par with a street beggar. That of living from payday to payday. The big difference is, that the beggars’ life won’t change.
In this respect, many people live to work. They are slaves to their level of consumption.
Off course, days less than perfect happen on the road, though the big picture is all good.
Making these comments for me now comes with much clarity, as I am looking from the outside in.
I guess one day I will climb back in, but not all the way. There are too many experiences and lifestyle changes to be bought with me on my return.
Though, it is right for me now, to be utilizing saved funds without the need or desire to replenish them, while I am healthy and still have a free spirit.
The chair, TV, golf?, grand kids and all that stuff will always be there.
This lifestyle doesn’t take much to maintain, having the right thoughts and attitude, is more important than money for its continuation. Health, though is number one.
At present, these I have.
It’s great to have this spare time, looking back over what I have just written, penning these thoughts is important. How will I think about them in ten years?
They are in writing, that is significant in itself.
That’s my take on things, now back to proceedings.
Thinking about something else, on a bit of a lighter note, it occurred to me just how much free range defecating I am doing.
Urinating with a rod of steel between my legs, just off the road, is also the norm.
There’s nothing better than squatting with a different view everyday, a view of trees, desert, birds and even an ant or lizard going about its day.
The dry air works its magic on the outcome. No water is utilised, another plus. Grouping this waste is such a challenge for city engineers and environmentalists.
It certainly beats looking at an off white door with a calendar on it, or the desiderata!
I quietly celebrated, tonight was the first night for months, not going to bed with longjohns on.
Yeah!!. I will actually have to get clothes on when I wake up in the morning.
I download LP AR in Salta and had a browse through that, just to acquaint myself with a few things.
Sleep came, rapidly, with an ever so faint smile on my face and a warmth in my mind.
D83, T5/9.5, Av16.23, Max40, tot19436, 10,070
The days are certainly warming up, no longer is the sun so essential in the mornings, though its presence is always cherished, the earlier the better.
Life is now quite easy when you are able to use warm fingers to do small tasks like putting sugar on a spoon.
During the night gravel was falling from the cutting above where the tent was, I had to get used to this noise.
It has now been months since my senses have been on full alert at a camp because of fear of someone or something approaching in the night.
Camping here in South America so far has been so safe and late in the day it is not even a problem as to where one might end up camping, even in a desert or alpine environment.
As said before, the fact that the wind abates in the evenings is so beneficial to camping in exposed sites.
Fences are few and far between.
Leaving at about 0930, my water supply was negligible, as luck would have it, about 5km on there was a clear creek running through the grasses.
Water was filtered here. Though it had a weedy taste it was clear.
The road again was dead straight with a few small climbs. Yesterdays big mileage had taken its affect on me, by about 1230 hunger set in.
A deserted house at Campo Los Pozuelos was utilized for shelter. Mate, sardines and coffee were enjoyed.
The only animals out here were donkeys and a few goats.
Traffic was light with a few mining vehicles and people on motorbikes.
Near the Aerodromo Mina Alumbrera, a guy pulled over and gave me what was left of his bottle of pop.
He was heading to a walnut farm he had in the ranges. Gestures like this are such a pleasure.
Maybe I should put a sign on my bike saying “Bloody near 60, doing it tough!!, all offers of liquid welcome”!
People often ask my age, not one person believes me when I tell them I am forty. I might have to add a few years to this line.
I very rarely use a mirror outdoors, though all this time in the sun has tossed a few years on, especially my legs, they are now a bit wrinkled.
Soon the wind starting picking up to gale force on the starboard forward quarter.
To my left in the desert between me and the ranges, there were dust devils everywhere.
On the road there were areas of pressure, it was hard going.
Soon dust enveloped me.
My camera got saved this time.
From here, there was 36km of gravel and more air laden with dust.
Luckily some was downhill going.
These days, after Peru and Bolivia with days on end of riding on gravel, sometimes up mountains, these obstacles are absolutely nothing.
Venturing into the Andes for extended periods has definitely up my threshold of riding discomforts. This thirty six km was nothing more than part of a days ride.
At Hualfin, an hour was spent talking to the girl from the tienda and supplies for the night were bought, bread, water, avena, potatoes and onions. A guy about my age pulled into the tienda with a flask, he was getting it filled with hot water for his mate. This is such a common practise here in AR. The drink is rather addictive, it is high in caffeine.
Sometimes I find myself wanting a brew.
Leaving Hualfin, the Rio Belén was approached. On the way down a side road was spotted.
Entering here , it was seen to be well used, maybe some farms were up further.
I pulled over and scouted about for a suitable spot, one without cactus spines everywhere.
To date my airbed has been spared. A small dry sandy creek bed was walked up, perfecto, it was soft, thorn free and out of sight.
I covered my tracks up here and settled in to what was a great camp site in amongst low hills.
You tend to feel like an outlaw in these campsites, you know, cacti everywhere, low scrub, rocky outcrops, huge skies, and sand always underfoot.
Dinner was fried potatoes and onions with lots of chilli and garlic, with bread and dulce de leche with coffee and mate.
I took time just to look at the stars and think about life. The southern cross is always with me low in the sky early in the evening.
A few thoughts about it all
It felt so good to be here, just one person, self sufficient in this huge dry dusty part of Northern Argentina. Setting up at night and camping is very natural for me now.
I eat well, am comfortable, nearly always warm, all I need is with me.
My Exped Downmat provides the most comfortable sleep, it truly is as good as any bed, not once have I awoken feeling aches.
The Vango tent, being a 3 manner is roomy and warm. Watching movies, ones mind is fully engrossed. I caught myself not even thinking I was in the wilderness in a cloth walled home, it felt like being in a room in a warm house in the burbs.
Such an ease of locale is now with me. This ease is heightened, knowing that I can stop anywhere and be comfortable.
Though in the background my thoughts are with my health, it is such a gift to be healthy and fit, this I am always thankful for, may it continue.
This existence sees me the healthiest and most positive, in body and mind I have been in for a some time.
The day to day chores of work, paying bills, putting up with painful people, maintaining cars, properties and other possessions really take one into a state of sublime poor health.
Being overly busy all the time, whether socially or workwise for me was not good, I am sure for most people it is the same.
Growing up for me, the word stress was only used by engineers, they have had to find a new term. This word is well and truly out there on the streets, in homes, at work, it is everywhere.
Our 21st century lifestyles demand this, especially if you are a slave to consuming.
You know. Cars, new clothes, holidays that keep perpetuating the cycle on your return home. When I was in that world, a planned holiday was eagerly looked forward to. The time went scarily fast, you had your holiday, had such a good time, it went way to quick, just as you were slotting into the relaxation it was all over. You got home to reality, had bills to pay.
The high of your time out soon left you, time to plan the next trip, and on it goes, and on it will for the rest of your life till you have health problems or can’t afford it.
Most people lead this life, thankfully it is the moments, especially funny warm moments with friends that make it bearable. Sport and exercise is such a great interlude to this existence as well.
Having a purpose or a challenge is so important. Take the need to earn money from your life. What purpose is left? I asked myself this question, many parts of the answer were not what I wanted to hear.
My marriage was not hunky dory, my wife and I could have drifted on together for years, we were comfortable, had lots of friends and two great sons. All that stuff.
One unhappy person in a group or family affects all those near.
Something had to be done. I did not want to be comfortably numb. Escaping on holidays with a bunch of guys was no solution. I tried that!
The result of my actions have left me with a good friend in my wife, still two great sons and an existence for me that is full of adventure, new people, places and a freedom unknown.
A life where each day has new challenges, things like finding water, shelter, the direction, words of a foreign language to explain myself.
To say this existence for me is stimulating, is an understatement.
Human beings are traditionally scared of change, but how many times have you heard someone say “It is the best thing I ever did”.
I feel most people accept this situation and just get old, with a few highlights tossed in just to keep it half interesting, you know maybe a good round of golf, a new car, some easy money, fun holiday, or their team got up.
Or maybe waiting to become a grandparent.
For me, I feel this is really what most people do, if it makes them really truly happy that is all important, I was not.
Of course it is not really this bad, but it bears thought.
Actually, while you have your health later in life, there are not to many long term pursuits outside work that are fulfilling and don't cost a fortune. That is why cycling is so great, it is really bloody slow and financially sustainable, leaving a very small carbon footprint which I like.
I guess I am just different in this respect.
Maybe that’s why there aint a bunch of fifty something old dreamers out on the asphalt just cruising along, enjoying the simple things and always looking for some soft ground out of harm’s way, late in the day!!
Or maybe they are doing different things and just don’t wont to bust themselves up hills on lonely roads in a foreign country on a bicycle for a few years!!
I have always believed. That if one day you woke up and never went back to work. That is your true monetary worth. For many people regardless of age and income, the banks would only be a couple of weeks away from the door, closely followed by real estate people.
Todays, largely, credit funded consumption, gears many people, regardless of income on par with a street beggar. That of living from payday to payday. The big difference is, that the beggars’ life won’t change.
In this respect, many people live to work. They are slaves to their level of consumption.
Off course, days less than perfect happen on the road, though the big picture is all good.
Making these comments for me now comes with much clarity, as I am looking from the outside in.
I guess one day I will climb back in, but not all the way. There are too many experiences and lifestyle changes to be bought with me on my return.
Though, it is right for me now, to be utilizing saved funds without the need or desire to replenish them, while I am healthy and still have a free spirit.
The chair, TV, golf?, grand kids and all that stuff will always be there.
This lifestyle doesn’t take much to maintain, having the right thoughts and attitude, is more important than money for its continuation. Health, though is number one.
At present, these I have.
It’s great to have this spare time, looking back over what I have just written, penning these thoughts is important. How will I think about them in ten years?
They are in writing, that is significant in itself.
That’s my take on things, now back to proceedings.
Thinking about something else, on a bit of a lighter note, it occurred to me just how much free range defecating I am doing.
Urinating with a rod of steel between my legs, just off the road, is also the norm.
There’s nothing better than squatting with a different view everyday, a view of trees, desert, birds and even an ant or lizard going about its day.
The dry air works its magic on the outcome. No water is utilised, another plus. Grouping this waste is such a challenge for city engineers and environmentalists.
It certainly beats looking at an off white door with a calendar on it, or the desiderata!
I quietly celebrated, tonight was the first night for months, not going to bed with longjohns on.
Yeah!!. I will actually have to get clothes on when I wake up in the morning.
I download LP AR in Salta and had a browse through that, just to acquaint myself with a few things.
Sleep came, rapidly, with an ever so faint smile on my face and a warmth in my mind.
Still huge open landscapes
Home for a night in a dry creek bed near Rio Belén, Catamarca northern Argentina.
