27/12/201 Cochrane to bush camp near rio Barrancosa
DD53, T4/6, Av11.63, Max43, Tot 23,739, 13,943
Mild , overcast and trying to rain
I got to bed last night about 0100. Waking up this morning though a good sleep was enjoyed, I was still in need of more.
We pottered around and got things organised. Arrangements with the owner had seen us allowed to vacate at 1200, not the earlier time of 1100 as is normal.
A trip was made into town for more Tabasco, fishing gear, and an allen key for the stove.
We got away about 1200 and bought bread on the way from town, an empanada was also enjoyed.
Soon as we got to the edge of town the gravel started.
The scenery was still the rural setting of dryish countryside with rural activities along the way.
Much clearing had occurred.
Sheep and cattle were common.
It was trying to rain with patchy light showers.
I have been on the go now since Temuco, though a few days have been had off, it has been busy, with people, organizing the tent, meeting Callum and days of gravel roads.
Riding today was quite bazaar, it was like it was a dream the only real thing about it was the corrugations pounding my body all day.
My mind was a million miles away. It was like the bike was part of me. Concentration had to be concentrted on.
I was in a kind of relaxed trance. One where my body and mind were worn out and had had enough of concentrating on things.
My mind and body were just saying, lets have a break. The gravel roads really require alot of concentration.
Lunch was enjoyed by a small stream, we finished the bread with sardines and Dulce.
From here we climbed, infact we had steadily though subtly climb all day from Cochrane.
At the summit, we had decided to find the next river to camp.
I was dangerously tired and relaxed.
Coming to the bridge where the Rio Barrancosa crossed we followed a side road down the river, it was too well fenced to access the water so we returned to the carretera, the road now was easy riding, the scenery a little more interesting with cloud covered mountains on the west side of the valley.
The road was now totally wet due to the rain.
We found a camp on the roadside out of sight of traffic.
It was a great spot.
We had a tiny stream for water, a view of the mountains, which were very close.
The tents were set up just on the edge of the forest the covered the slope behind us.
We were in bed at 0830 after dinner, two worn out cyclists.
For me an early night was needed. I remember little after climbing into the tent.
It is morning now and it is raining, we are so pleased to be in this nice dry tent.
29/12/2013 Bush camp to Rio Vagabundo at the Caleta Tortel turnoff
D58, T4/7, Av14.34, Max46, tot 23,797, 14,001
Wet morning, overcast dull mild day, light wind, 22°
Having camped under the edge of the forest we copped a lot of excess moisture dripping from the tree canopies.
We packed up inside the tent while it was still raining on and off. Once organised we unhooked the inner tent and ended up with an area big enough for four people.
A deck of cards and a day could be spent under here so easily.
We cooked breakfast inside while it still rained.
A couple of High Country dehy food packs were enjoyed with porridge and coffee. The food packs have been with me since 2011 and were out of date . it was a good time to eat them .
Packing up after the rain stopped saw us depart about 1200.
The fly was packed separately it was drenched.
Cals loaded maps showed a day of flat riding ahead. He has a sore nerve behind his shoulder blade, having slept on it we feel.
So I apply deep heat in the mornings to his back.
The sky was overcast so the surrounding ranges were shrouded. Again, many rural properties were past.
Like many examples of people coming to these marginal areas to settle, they arrive full of enthusiasm, clear land, build and try to manicure the property.
Unless this enthusiasm prevails, the battle against nature is generally lost.
Many properties appeared abandoned and over grown. One had shade houses for pon pon falling apart and outbuildings behaving similarly.
The land around the property had been cut and burnt, it was an eye sore to say the least.
A similar example, at Halfway Creek north of Coffs Harbour exists where marginal land was cleared to grow fruit trees.
Whilst the enthusiasm and money flowed, nature was held at bay.
Today up there, she prevails again, except on a few properties. Unfortunately, she has an almost impossible job to reconstruct the natural environment that was.
This is the same here. In the thirties and forties here in Patagonia settlers came down here. The government of the day said if they could present clear land, it was theirs to own.
Consequently, hundreds of thousands of acres were burnt. Even today in parts of the bush, dead forest giants can be seen still standing above the present canopy, though, long dead.
We stopped and talked to a group of two English couples heading north.
It was good to talk with others whose native tongue is English. The said as we get south we are going to enjoy better fishing and howling tail winds out of the NW.
We spoke with another German couple in a Landrover who had been touring in SA for a few years. They had it so well set up. The Germans love having things in place and all working. Hi tech things I might add. They love gadgets and technology.
We stopped at a grassy area for lunch and to erect our tents to dry them for the night.
The sky was beginning to lift. Cerro Bonete became visible to our west.
Mountains and ranges with snowy tops are remarkably close all the time.
Coming to the confluence of two rivers and then riding through a heavily forested valley, to our left was a face of a range for sometime.
All along this treed and rocky huge face were waterfalls cascading their liquid into the forest on its way down to us.
You could hear them roaring as you passed.
Most water here has a colour, like that of wood tannins. The rivers are brown from ash.
Through this bush was the odd house. It was nice to be back in the natural vegetation here again.
At about 1930 we got to the turnoff to Caleta Tortel. We needed a camp. None was available around here.
Going back over the bridge we found a site down by the roaring Vagabundo Rio.
Here we camped on crushed rock right alongside water that was in such a hurry, boy did it make a noise. A noise that could only put you to sleep, especially after another day riding on the gravel of the Careterra Austral.
Cal cooked up, “a to die for” rice, onion, spicy number with Italian sauce.
The overcast evening sky carried two Condors soaring incredibly high. An afternoon cruise on the thermals before heading home to their cliff I guessed.
Come 2130 Cal went to bed. I made a herbal tea and took my trusty stool down to the river and enjoyed taking in the fading light.
It was a time for some reflection and a little meditation. Just to switch completely off for awhile.
This was a kind of rejuvenation for what lies ahead. I sat there, watching the rushing waters, a waterfall up on a bush-clad cliff in the distance contrasted with the green bush.
How long did that water take to flow past me, I thought. For me times like this are so special. They are inspirational. They can be the seed for further dreams. Those both achievable and those that just provide elation as they flow easily through my mind.
Locations like this and these quiet times alone close to nature, make me high, thoughts and ideas flow freely. Thoughts, that like the ingredients in a centrifuge are forced out of the centre and become so lateral as they are bought to the edge and become remarkably clear.
There are certain places I have visited that can do this. The Road from Cajamarca to Chachapoyos in Peru was another. So was sitting on the beach at Sandon River, north of Coffs Harbour in the morning light.
We set the tent up securely, expecting more overnight rain.
29/12/2013 Rio Vagabundo to a farm 8km from ferry
D30, T2/9, Av13, Max59, Tot 23,827, 14,031
Overcast and wet
Once again, things were wet in the morning, The sounds of the river had allowed us both to sleep well.
My lower back is giving me problems, so we both now have to rub each other down with deep heat in the mornings.
We actually got away at 1100.
Across the bridge was a 4km climb to the tops and then a descent into Puerto Yungay.
It was a great way to warm up in the cool damp morning, that of climbing the range.
Near the top Cal stopped for a quick exploratory fish to check a river.
All the rivers are still dark from the soil type and tannins around here. They don’t hold fish, no matter how good they look.
The English cyclists were fishing, they had said it improves after Villa O’Higgins.
Up on the tops we came across Angelica and Michel in their Landrover, they pulled over for a chat, we spent some time with them .They are a lovely couple in their sixties I guess.
We talked about lots of things, books, our parents, the history here to name a few.
They everso kindly gave us bread and two beers. Talk about a belated Christmas gift.
Angelica gave me the name and author of a great book about some history of South America.
By Eduardo Galeano, “Las Venas abierto de Americana Latino”.
It was great to see them again. They leave their vehicle here each year and return to Germany for the summer.
From here it was down hill to Puerto Yungay.
It was quite a long descent, on the way down we came to one corner, that was one of the most unpredictable for me yet on gravel.
Going about 40km, into the corner, it suddenly tightened and the grade doubled. Hitting the brakes repeatedly to slow but not skid I just made it.
Cal was ahead, I was happy to see his tracks in the gravel after these couple of corners, he had made it.
Sometimes he lets it fly downhill.
We stopped on catching up together and both commented on how dangerous it was. He asked me did I see his skid marks, he had to brake super heavily.
Soon we dropped down to the ferry terminus.
This consisted of a little touristy tienda, the ferry office, a car park and little else.
This was the coast, the water had a dirty colour. We got here about 1400 and the ferry was to leave at 1800. We had plenty of time.
I put the tent up to dry between showers.
We sat around and drank coffee and mate.
A family from Santiago arrived, we spent time talking with them.
He was a fruit grower. He grew cherries and peaches and was telling me of the huge amount of cherries exported to the US each winter.
Though, last year was a bad year because of the weak US Dollar.
A good year for many has nothing to with the quality of your produce.
Once on the ferry it was a forty five minute trip across the bay. This ferry is free as it is part of the Austral, a bit like river ferries on the Clarence river near my home.
We disembarked at Rio Bravo, everything was now wet and very cool, the country was heavily forested with many ground ferns and other thick ground cover.
It was like a cool rainforest.
All the while, we were looking for a campsite.
It was raining, we were going to have to set up in the wet.
After a few more km, we came to a property with a hut near the road. I wandered in and asked the family if we could sleep inside the building.
They said no problems.
The son even came up with me from the house to sweep the straw off the floor and feed it to his horses.
We were indeed lucky to be sleeping in dry conditions.
We just laid the foot print on the floor and placed our airbeds on this.
Dinner was soup and lots of drinks. I don’t touch mate in the evening , you just can’t sleep after having it.
Though’ in the mornings it is a great rehydrater, often we will drink a whole pot of hot water added to it. Mate after mate.
We enjoyed the two beers from Michel and Angelica with peanuts.
Before dark, the cows and bulls in a pen near the hut were having a great old chat. Talk about bellowing, I’ve heard nothing like it before. They sounded like fog horns going off in your ear.
It was great to be so comfortable and dry listening to the rain falling from the trees above the hut onto its iron roof.
The hut had a lovely smell of hay about it.
It has been many years since this smell was significant. It reminded me of my hay carting days in Hawkes Bay in NZ.
We would work huge hours bringing hay in off the paddocks, after it had been baled. It would then be stacked in a barn .
We were paid by the bale.
Back then, I used to suffer from hay fever, some days my nose would be like a river and my eyes glassy, all day and night.
Sleeping , breathing from the mouth was a nightmare. My mouth was like a desert on awakening.
All my life I had to carry a handkerchief, just dusty carpet would set it off.
Cats were also a trigger.
Then about 4 years ago, I nearly broke my nose, dancing of all things. Very late at night in Northern Australia.
A doctor friend in Coffs Harbour, an ear, nose and throat specialist, operated on it and at the same time gave it a good scrape and clean out .
That single event has changed my life so much. I no longer need to carry a handkerchief and am always breathing from two nostrils.
Visiting my parents in CHCH in NZ and the dry air there, used to see my nose red raw on my return home due to constantly blowing it.
I can now go anywhere and even be near cats without any runniness.
Being able to sleep in a hay shed is such a pleasure these days. Had there even been a cat on the scene all would have been hunky dory!
30/12/2013 Farm hut to the shores of Lago Cisnes
D86, T6/9, Av 13.46, Max54, Tot 23,914, 14,117
Wet all day
The bovine population around the hut were calling each other all night, a few found the hut interesting and were pushing on parts of it.
We both slept really well. It was comforting hearing the rain whilst we were dry.
We took advantage of our situation and got up early. I was up at 0600 typing my blog over coffee. Cal was soon up and we were on the road at the long unheard time of 0830.
It was still very wet outside, riding was easy and it did not take long to warm up.
The country now has that incredibly wet feel about it, there was water everywhere in streams, waterfalls, rivers and swamps.
Building this road must have been a huge exercise of moving gravel to elevate it above the natural ground level.
In almost all sections on the lowland, it is elevated.
We soon got to the first climb we knew about.
Here on the ranges around us, the ones we could see were tens of dozens of waterfalls, they were everywhere, the bigger ones could be heard.
It was a steady climb into more rocky country, with snow seemingly close by.
Near the peak a Condor was seen flying incredibly close, you could observe his head features.
All the time it was raining on and off.
We stopped after the descent in a tiny roadside hut about the size of an outhouse toilet.
It was great to be out of the wet and wind.
Here we indulged in Dulce and lovely hot milo.
We were making great kilometres. By about this time on most occasions we were just leaving camp.
It was flat for some time then we climbed again, after this it was great going just following a huge valley.
We were robbed of most good alpine vistas because of the overcast conditions.
The road was a filling shaker with half buried unavoidable stones on its surface.
Come 1500 hours we were in need of another rest and more to drink and eat.
A small tombe on the roadside offered great shelter for milo and soup with dulce on crackers, mate was also enjoyed.
We had done 65km on gravel and were pleased with ourselves.
Villa O’Higgins was reachable. We had decided to camp just short of the outpost.
The last stop on the Carretera Austral, this mythic village is alluring in its isolation. First settled by the English (1914– 16), the outpost attracted a few Chileans but the road didn’t arrive until 1999. The spectacular surroundings can be explored on horseback or foot, and there’s world-class fishing. A growing number of trekkers and cyclists are crossing over from El Chaltén, Argentina. Plans to create road access to Argentina via Entrada Mayer (slated for 2013) and add a strip of road between Candelaria Mansilla and Lago del Desierto (which would still require ferry use) will greatly facilitate travel to and from Argentina. Almost no one uses addresses but locals are happy to point you in the right direction. There’s no ATM here so bring the cash you will need. Planet, Lonely.
From here we followed the shores of Lago Cisnes, at one point we could see pueblito of Villa O’ Higgins tucked under the ranges.
Crossing the Rio Desague, we took a sidetrack to look for a camp, this only lead to a farmhouse after two kilometres.
On entering the Austral again we rode on along a causeway along the shore of the lago. At a high point, a track led down to the waters edge.
Here we found a great campsite on the shores in the trees to get out of the wind.
We were both worn out, out had been a huge day, most of our gear was wet.
I perspire alot, so most of my clothing was wet including my foot wear.
The rain abated enough to pitch the tent ant cook dinner, that of pasta, onions and tuna, so good.
DD53, T4/6, Av11.63, Max43, Tot 23,739, 13,943
Mild , overcast and trying to rain
I got to bed last night about 0100. Waking up this morning though a good sleep was enjoyed, I was still in need of more.
We pottered around and got things organised. Arrangements with the owner had seen us allowed to vacate at 1200, not the earlier time of 1100 as is normal.
A trip was made into town for more Tabasco, fishing gear, and an allen key for the stove.
We got away about 1200 and bought bread on the way from town, an empanada was also enjoyed.
Soon as we got to the edge of town the gravel started.
The scenery was still the rural setting of dryish countryside with rural activities along the way.
Much clearing had occurred.
Sheep and cattle were common.
It was trying to rain with patchy light showers.
I have been on the go now since Temuco, though a few days have been had off, it has been busy, with people, organizing the tent, meeting Callum and days of gravel roads.
Riding today was quite bazaar, it was like it was a dream the only real thing about it was the corrugations pounding my body all day.
My mind was a million miles away. It was like the bike was part of me. Concentration had to be concentrted on.
I was in a kind of relaxed trance. One where my body and mind were worn out and had had enough of concentrating on things.
My mind and body were just saying, lets have a break. The gravel roads really require alot of concentration.
Lunch was enjoyed by a small stream, we finished the bread with sardines and Dulce.
From here we climbed, infact we had steadily though subtly climb all day from Cochrane.
At the summit, we had decided to find the next river to camp.
I was dangerously tired and relaxed.
Coming to the bridge where the Rio Barrancosa crossed we followed a side road down the river, it was too well fenced to access the water so we returned to the carretera, the road now was easy riding, the scenery a little more interesting with cloud covered mountains on the west side of the valley.
The road was now totally wet due to the rain.
We found a camp on the roadside out of sight of traffic.
It was a great spot.
We had a tiny stream for water, a view of the mountains, which were very close.
The tents were set up just on the edge of the forest the covered the slope behind us.
We were in bed at 0830 after dinner, two worn out cyclists.
For me an early night was needed. I remember little after climbing into the tent.
It is morning now and it is raining, we are so pleased to be in this nice dry tent.
29/12/2013 Bush camp to Rio Vagabundo at the Caleta Tortel turnoff
D58, T4/7, Av14.34, Max46, tot 23,797, 14,001
Wet morning, overcast dull mild day, light wind, 22°
Having camped under the edge of the forest we copped a lot of excess moisture dripping from the tree canopies.
We packed up inside the tent while it was still raining on and off. Once organised we unhooked the inner tent and ended up with an area big enough for four people.
A deck of cards and a day could be spent under here so easily.
We cooked breakfast inside while it still rained.
A couple of High Country dehy food packs were enjoyed with porridge and coffee. The food packs have been with me since 2011 and were out of date . it was a good time to eat them .
Packing up after the rain stopped saw us depart about 1200.
The fly was packed separately it was drenched.
Cals loaded maps showed a day of flat riding ahead. He has a sore nerve behind his shoulder blade, having slept on it we feel.
So I apply deep heat in the mornings to his back.
The sky was overcast so the surrounding ranges were shrouded. Again, many rural properties were past.
Like many examples of people coming to these marginal areas to settle, they arrive full of enthusiasm, clear land, build and try to manicure the property.
Unless this enthusiasm prevails, the battle against nature is generally lost.
Many properties appeared abandoned and over grown. One had shade houses for pon pon falling apart and outbuildings behaving similarly.
The land around the property had been cut and burnt, it was an eye sore to say the least.
A similar example, at Halfway Creek north of Coffs Harbour exists where marginal land was cleared to grow fruit trees.
Whilst the enthusiasm and money flowed, nature was held at bay.
Today up there, she prevails again, except on a few properties. Unfortunately, she has an almost impossible job to reconstruct the natural environment that was.
This is the same here. In the thirties and forties here in Patagonia settlers came down here. The government of the day said if they could present clear land, it was theirs to own.
Consequently, hundreds of thousands of acres were burnt. Even today in parts of the bush, dead forest giants can be seen still standing above the present canopy, though, long dead.
We stopped and talked to a group of two English couples heading north.
It was good to talk with others whose native tongue is English. The said as we get south we are going to enjoy better fishing and howling tail winds out of the NW.
We spoke with another German couple in a Landrover who had been touring in SA for a few years. They had it so well set up. The Germans love having things in place and all working. Hi tech things I might add. They love gadgets and technology.
We stopped at a grassy area for lunch and to erect our tents to dry them for the night.
The sky was beginning to lift. Cerro Bonete became visible to our west.
Mountains and ranges with snowy tops are remarkably close all the time.
Coming to the confluence of two rivers and then riding through a heavily forested valley, to our left was a face of a range for sometime.
All along this treed and rocky huge face were waterfalls cascading their liquid into the forest on its way down to us.
You could hear them roaring as you passed.
Most water here has a colour, like that of wood tannins. The rivers are brown from ash.
Through this bush was the odd house. It was nice to be back in the natural vegetation here again.
At about 1930 we got to the turnoff to Caleta Tortel. We needed a camp. None was available around here.
Going back over the bridge we found a site down by the roaring Vagabundo Rio.
Here we camped on crushed rock right alongside water that was in such a hurry, boy did it make a noise. A noise that could only put you to sleep, especially after another day riding on the gravel of the Careterra Austral.
Cal cooked up, “a to die for” rice, onion, spicy number with Italian sauce.
The overcast evening sky carried two Condors soaring incredibly high. An afternoon cruise on the thermals before heading home to their cliff I guessed.
Come 2130 Cal went to bed. I made a herbal tea and took my trusty stool down to the river and enjoyed taking in the fading light.
It was a time for some reflection and a little meditation. Just to switch completely off for awhile.
This was a kind of rejuvenation for what lies ahead. I sat there, watching the rushing waters, a waterfall up on a bush-clad cliff in the distance contrasted with the green bush.
How long did that water take to flow past me, I thought. For me times like this are so special. They are inspirational. They can be the seed for further dreams. Those both achievable and those that just provide elation as they flow easily through my mind.
Locations like this and these quiet times alone close to nature, make me high, thoughts and ideas flow freely. Thoughts, that like the ingredients in a centrifuge are forced out of the centre and become so lateral as they are bought to the edge and become remarkably clear.
There are certain places I have visited that can do this. The Road from Cajamarca to Chachapoyos in Peru was another. So was sitting on the beach at Sandon River, north of Coffs Harbour in the morning light.
We set the tent up securely, expecting more overnight rain.
29/12/2013 Rio Vagabundo to a farm 8km from ferry
D30, T2/9, Av13, Max59, Tot 23,827, 14,031
Overcast and wet
Once again, things were wet in the morning, The sounds of the river had allowed us both to sleep well.
My lower back is giving me problems, so we both now have to rub each other down with deep heat in the mornings.
We actually got away at 1100.
Across the bridge was a 4km climb to the tops and then a descent into Puerto Yungay.
It was a great way to warm up in the cool damp morning, that of climbing the range.
Near the top Cal stopped for a quick exploratory fish to check a river.
All the rivers are still dark from the soil type and tannins around here. They don’t hold fish, no matter how good they look.
The English cyclists were fishing, they had said it improves after Villa O’Higgins.
Up on the tops we came across Angelica and Michel in their Landrover, they pulled over for a chat, we spent some time with them .They are a lovely couple in their sixties I guess.
We talked about lots of things, books, our parents, the history here to name a few.
They everso kindly gave us bread and two beers. Talk about a belated Christmas gift.
Angelica gave me the name and author of a great book about some history of South America.
By Eduardo Galeano, “Las Venas abierto de Americana Latino”.
It was great to see them again. They leave their vehicle here each year and return to Germany for the summer.
From here it was down hill to Puerto Yungay.
It was quite a long descent, on the way down we came to one corner, that was one of the most unpredictable for me yet on gravel.
Going about 40km, into the corner, it suddenly tightened and the grade doubled. Hitting the brakes repeatedly to slow but not skid I just made it.
Cal was ahead, I was happy to see his tracks in the gravel after these couple of corners, he had made it.
Sometimes he lets it fly downhill.
We stopped on catching up together and both commented on how dangerous it was. He asked me did I see his skid marks, he had to brake super heavily.
Soon we dropped down to the ferry terminus.
This consisted of a little touristy tienda, the ferry office, a car park and little else.
This was the coast, the water had a dirty colour. We got here about 1400 and the ferry was to leave at 1800. We had plenty of time.
I put the tent up to dry between showers.
We sat around and drank coffee and mate.
A family from Santiago arrived, we spent time talking with them.
He was a fruit grower. He grew cherries and peaches and was telling me of the huge amount of cherries exported to the US each winter.
Though, last year was a bad year because of the weak US Dollar.
A good year for many has nothing to with the quality of your produce.
Once on the ferry it was a forty five minute trip across the bay. This ferry is free as it is part of the Austral, a bit like river ferries on the Clarence river near my home.
We disembarked at Rio Bravo, everything was now wet and very cool, the country was heavily forested with many ground ferns and other thick ground cover.
It was like a cool rainforest.
All the while, we were looking for a campsite.
It was raining, we were going to have to set up in the wet.
After a few more km, we came to a property with a hut near the road. I wandered in and asked the family if we could sleep inside the building.
They said no problems.
The son even came up with me from the house to sweep the straw off the floor and feed it to his horses.
We were indeed lucky to be sleeping in dry conditions.
We just laid the foot print on the floor and placed our airbeds on this.
Dinner was soup and lots of drinks. I don’t touch mate in the evening , you just can’t sleep after having it.
Though’ in the mornings it is a great rehydrater, often we will drink a whole pot of hot water added to it. Mate after mate.
We enjoyed the two beers from Michel and Angelica with peanuts.
Before dark, the cows and bulls in a pen near the hut were having a great old chat. Talk about bellowing, I’ve heard nothing like it before. They sounded like fog horns going off in your ear.
It was great to be so comfortable and dry listening to the rain falling from the trees above the hut onto its iron roof.
The hut had a lovely smell of hay about it.
It has been many years since this smell was significant. It reminded me of my hay carting days in Hawkes Bay in NZ.
We would work huge hours bringing hay in off the paddocks, after it had been baled. It would then be stacked in a barn .
We were paid by the bale.
Back then, I used to suffer from hay fever, some days my nose would be like a river and my eyes glassy, all day and night.
Sleeping , breathing from the mouth was a nightmare. My mouth was like a desert on awakening.
All my life I had to carry a handkerchief, just dusty carpet would set it off.
Cats were also a trigger.
Then about 4 years ago, I nearly broke my nose, dancing of all things. Very late at night in Northern Australia.
A doctor friend in Coffs Harbour, an ear, nose and throat specialist, operated on it and at the same time gave it a good scrape and clean out .
That single event has changed my life so much. I no longer need to carry a handkerchief and am always breathing from two nostrils.
Visiting my parents in CHCH in NZ and the dry air there, used to see my nose red raw on my return home due to constantly blowing it.
I can now go anywhere and even be near cats without any runniness.
Being able to sleep in a hay shed is such a pleasure these days. Had there even been a cat on the scene all would have been hunky dory!
30/12/2013 Farm hut to the shores of Lago Cisnes
D86, T6/9, Av 13.46, Max54, Tot 23,914, 14,117
Wet all day
The bovine population around the hut were calling each other all night, a few found the hut interesting and were pushing on parts of it.
We both slept really well. It was comforting hearing the rain whilst we were dry.
We took advantage of our situation and got up early. I was up at 0600 typing my blog over coffee. Cal was soon up and we were on the road at the long unheard time of 0830.
It was still very wet outside, riding was easy and it did not take long to warm up.
The country now has that incredibly wet feel about it, there was water everywhere in streams, waterfalls, rivers and swamps.
Building this road must have been a huge exercise of moving gravel to elevate it above the natural ground level.
In almost all sections on the lowland, it is elevated.
We soon got to the first climb we knew about.
Here on the ranges around us, the ones we could see were tens of dozens of waterfalls, they were everywhere, the bigger ones could be heard.
It was a steady climb into more rocky country, with snow seemingly close by.
Near the peak a Condor was seen flying incredibly close, you could observe his head features.
All the time it was raining on and off.
We stopped after the descent in a tiny roadside hut about the size of an outhouse toilet.
It was great to be out of the wet and wind.
Here we indulged in Dulce and lovely hot milo.
We were making great kilometres. By about this time on most occasions we were just leaving camp.
It was flat for some time then we climbed again, after this it was great going just following a huge valley.
We were robbed of most good alpine vistas because of the overcast conditions.
The road was a filling shaker with half buried unavoidable stones on its surface.
Come 1500 hours we were in need of another rest and more to drink and eat.
A small tombe on the roadside offered great shelter for milo and soup with dulce on crackers, mate was also enjoyed.
We had done 65km on gravel and were pleased with ourselves.
Villa O’Higgins was reachable. We had decided to camp just short of the outpost.
The last stop on the Carretera Austral, this mythic village is alluring in its isolation. First settled by the English (1914– 16), the outpost attracted a few Chileans but the road didn’t arrive until 1999. The spectacular surroundings can be explored on horseback or foot, and there’s world-class fishing. A growing number of trekkers and cyclists are crossing over from El Chaltén, Argentina. Plans to create road access to Argentina via Entrada Mayer (slated for 2013) and add a strip of road between Candelaria Mansilla and Lago del Desierto (which would still require ferry use) will greatly facilitate travel to and from Argentina. Almost no one uses addresses but locals are happy to point you in the right direction. There’s no ATM here so bring the cash you will need. Planet, Lonely.
From here we followed the shores of Lago Cisnes, at one point we could see pueblito of Villa O’ Higgins tucked under the ranges.
Crossing the Rio Desague, we took a sidetrack to look for a camp, this only lead to a farmhouse after two kilometres.
On entering the Austral again we rode on along a causeway along the shore of the lago. At a high point, a track led down to the waters edge.
Here we found a great campsite on the shores in the trees to get out of the wind.
We were both worn out, out had been a huge day, most of our gear was wet.
I perspire alot, so most of my clothing was wet including my foot wear.
The rain abated enough to pitch the tent ant cook dinner, that of pasta, onions and tuna, so good.
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