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  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
27/12/201 Cochrane to bush camp near rio Barrancosa

DD53, T4/6, Av11.63, Max43, Tot 23,739, 13,943

Mild , overcast and trying to rain

I got to bed last night about 0100. Waking up this morning though a good sleep was enjoyed, I was still in need of more.

We pottered around and got things organised. Arrangements with the owner had seen us allowed to vacate at 1200, not the earlier time of 1100 as is normal.

A trip was made into town for more Tabasco, fishing gear, and an allen key for the stove.

We got away about 1200 and bought bread on the way from town, an empanada was also enjoyed.

Soon as we got to the edge of town the gravel started.

The scenery was still the rural setting of dryish countryside with rural activities along the way.

Much clearing had occurred.

Sheep and cattle were common.

It was trying to rain with patchy light showers.

I have been on the go now since Temuco, though a few days have been had off, it has been busy, with people, organizing the tent, meeting Callum and days of gravel roads.

Riding today was quite bazaar, it was like it was a dream the only real thing about it was the corrugations pounding my body all day.

My mind was a million miles away. It was like the bike was part of me. Concentration had to be concentrted on.

I was in a kind of relaxed trance. One where my body and mind were worn out and had had enough of concentrating on things.

My mind and body were just saying, lets have a break. The gravel roads really require alot of concentration.

Lunch was enjoyed by a small stream, we finished the bread with sardines and Dulce.

From here we climbed, infact we had steadily though subtly climb all day from Cochrane.

At the summit, we had decided to find the next river to camp.

I was dangerously tired and relaxed.

Coming to the bridge where the Rio Barrancosa crossed we followed a side road down the river, it was too well fenced to access the water so we returned to the carretera, the road now was easy riding, the scenery a little more interesting with cloud covered mountains on the west side of the valley.

The road was now totally wet due to the rain.

We found a camp on the roadside out of sight of traffic.

It was a great spot.

We had a tiny stream for water, a view of the mountains, which were very close.

The tents were set up just on the edge of the forest the covered the slope behind us.

We were in bed at 0830 after dinner, two worn out cyclists.

For me an early night was needed. I remember little after climbing into the tent.

It is morning now and it is raining, we are so pleased to be in this nice dry tent.

29/12/2013 Bush camp to Rio Vagabundo at the Caleta Tortel turnoff

D58, T4/7, Av14.34, Max46, tot 23,797, 14,001

Wet morning, overcast dull mild day, light wind, 22°

Having camped under the edge of the forest we copped a lot of excess moisture dripping from the tree canopies.

We packed up inside the tent while it was still raining on and off. Once organised we unhooked the inner tent and ended up with an area big enough for four people.

A deck of cards and a day could be spent under here so easily.

We cooked breakfast inside while it still rained.

A couple of High Country dehy food packs were enjoyed with porridge and coffee. The food packs have been with me since 2011 and were out of date . it was a good time to eat them .

Packing up after the rain stopped saw us depart about 1200.

 The fly was packed separately it was drenched.

Cals loaded maps showed a day of flat riding ahead. He has a sore nerve behind his shoulder blade, having slept on it we feel.

So I apply deep heat in the mornings to his back.

The sky was overcast so the surrounding ranges were shrouded. Again, many rural properties were past.

Like many examples of people coming to these marginal areas to settle, they arrive full of enthusiasm, clear land, build and try to manicure the property.

Unless this enthusiasm prevails, the battle against nature is generally lost.

Many properties appeared abandoned and over grown. One had shade houses for pon pon falling apart and outbuildings behaving similarly.

The land around the property had been cut and burnt, it was an eye sore to say the least.

A similar example, at Halfway Creek north of Coffs Harbour exists where marginal land was cleared to grow fruit trees.

Whilst the enthusiasm and money flowed, nature was held at bay.

Today up there, she prevails again, except on a few properties. Unfortunately, she has an almost impossible job to reconstruct the natural environment that was.

This is the same here. In the thirties and forties here in Patagonia settlers came down here. The government of the day said if they could present clear land, it was theirs to own.

Consequently, hundreds of thousands of acres were burnt. Even today in parts of the bush, dead forest giants can be seen still standing above the present canopy,  though, long dead.

We stopped and talked to a group of two English couples heading north.

It was good to talk with others whose native tongue is English. The said as we get south we are going to enjoy better fishing and howling tail winds out of the NW.

We spoke with another German couple in a Landrover who had been touring in SA for a few years. They had it so well set up. The Germans love having things in place and all working. Hi tech things I might add. They love gadgets and technology.

We stopped at a grassy area for lunch and to erect our tents to dry them for the night.

The sky was beginning to lift. Cerro Bonete became visible to our west.

Mountains and ranges with snowy tops are remarkably close all the time.

Coming to the confluence of two rivers and then riding through a heavily forested valley, to our left was a face of a range for sometime.

All along this treed and rocky huge face were waterfalls cascading their liquid into the forest on its way down to us.

You could hear them roaring as you passed.

Most water here has a colour, like that of wood tannins. The rivers are brown from ash.

Through this bush was the odd house. It was nice to be back in the natural vegetation here again.

At about 1930 we got to the turnoff to Caleta Tortel. We needed a camp. None was available around here.

Going back over the bridge we found a site down by the roaring Vagabundo Rio.

Here we camped on crushed rock right alongside water that was in such a hurry, boy did it make a noise. A noise that could only put you to sleep, especially after another day riding on the gravel of the Careterra Austral.

Cal cooked up, “a to die for” rice, onion, spicy number with Italian sauce.

The overcast evening sky carried two Condors soaring incredibly high. An afternoon cruise on the thermals before heading home to their cliff I guessed.

Come 2130 Cal went to bed. I made a herbal tea and took my trusty stool down to the river and enjoyed taking  in  the fading light.

It was a time for some reflection and a little meditation. Just to switch completely off for awhile.

This was a kind of rejuvenation for what lies ahead. I sat there, watching the rushing waters, a waterfall up on a bush-clad cliff in the distance contrasted with the green bush.

How long did that water take to flow past me, I thought. For me times like this are so special. They are inspirational. They can be the seed for further dreams. Those both achievable and those that just provide elation as they flow easily through my mind.

Locations like this and these quiet times alone close to nature, make me high, thoughts and ideas flow freely. Thoughts, that like the ingredients in a centrifuge are forced out of the centre and become so lateral as they are bought to the edge and become remarkably clear.

There are certain places I have visited that can do this. The Road from Cajamarca to Chachapoyos in Peru was another. So was sitting on the beach at Sandon River, north of Coffs Harbour in the morning light.

We set the tent up securely, expecting more overnight rain.

 29/12/2013 Rio Vagabundo to a farm 8km from ferry

D30, T2/9, Av13, Max59, Tot 23,827, 14,031

Overcast and wet

Once again, things were wet in the morning, The sounds of the river had allowed us both to sleep well.

My lower back is giving me problems, so we both now have to rub each other down with deep heat in the mornings.

We actually got away at 1100.

 Across the bridge was a 4km climb to the tops and then a descent into Puerto Yungay.

It was a great way to warm up in the cool damp morning, that of climbing the range.

Near the top Cal stopped for a quick exploratory fish to check a river.

All the rivers are still dark from the soil type and tannins around here. They don’t hold fish, no matter how good they look.

The English cyclists were fishing, they had said it improves after Villa O’Higgins.

Up on the tops we came across Angelica and Michel in their Landrover, they pulled over for a chat, we spent some time with them .They are a lovely couple in their sixties I guess.

We talked about lots of things, books, our parents, the history here to name a few.

They everso kindly gave us bread and two beers. Talk about a belated Christmas gift.

Angelica gave me the name and author of a great book about some history of South America.

By Eduardo Galeano, “Las Venas abierto de Americana Latino”.

It was great to see them again. They leave their vehicle here each year and return to Germany for the summer.

From here it was down hill to Puerto Yungay.

It was quite a long descent, on the way down we came  to one corner, that was one of the most unpredictable for me yet on gravel.

Going about 40km, into the corner, it suddenly tightened and the grade doubled. Hitting the brakes repeatedly to slow but not skid I just made it.

Cal was ahead, I was happy to see his tracks in the gravel after these couple of corners, he had made it.

Sometimes he lets it fly downhill.

We stopped on catching up together and both commented on how dangerous it was. He asked me did I see his skid marks, he had to brake super heavily.

Soon we dropped down to the ferry terminus.

This consisted of a little touristy tienda, the ferry office, a car park and little else.

This was the coast, the water had a dirty colour. We got here about 1400 and the ferry was to leave at 1800. We had plenty of time.

I put the tent up to dry between showers.

We sat around and drank coffee and mate.

A family from Santiago arrived, we spent time talking with them.

He was a fruit grower. He grew cherries and peaches and was telling me of the huge amount of cherries exported to the US each winter.

Though, last year was a bad year because of the weak US Dollar.

A good year for many has nothing to with the quality of your produce.

Once on the ferry it was a forty five minute trip across the bay. This ferry is free as it is part of the Austral, a bit like river ferries on the Clarence river near my home.

We disembarked at Rio Bravo, everything was now wet and very cool, the country was heavily forested with many ground ferns and other thick ground cover.

It was like a cool rainforest.

All the while, we were looking for a campsite.

It was raining, we were going to have to set up in the wet.

After a few more km, we came to a property with a hut near the road. I wandered in and asked the family if we could sleep inside the building.

They said no problems.

The son even came up with me from the house to sweep the straw off the floor and feed it to his horses.

We were indeed lucky to be sleeping in dry conditions.

We just laid the foot print on the floor and placed our airbeds on this.

Dinner was soup and lots of drinks. I don’t touch mate in the evening , you just can’t sleep after having it.

Though’ in the mornings it is a great rehydrater, often we will drink a whole pot of hot water added to it. Mate after mate.

We enjoyed the two beers from Michel and Angelica with peanuts.

Before dark, the cows and bulls in a pen near the hut were having a great old chat. Talk about bellowing, I’ve heard nothing like it before. They sounded like fog horns going off in your ear.

It was great to be so comfortable and dry listening to the rain falling from the trees above the hut onto its iron roof.

The hut had a lovely smell of hay about it.

It has been many years since this smell was significant. It reminded me of my hay carting days in Hawkes Bay in NZ.

We would work huge hours bringing hay in off the paddocks, after it had been baled. It would then be stacked in a barn .

 We were paid by the bale.

Back then, I used to suffer from hay fever, some days my nose would be like a river and my eyes glassy, all day and night.

Sleeping , breathing from the mouth was a nightmare. My mouth was like a desert on awakening. 

All my life I had to carry a handkerchief, just dusty carpet would set it off.

Cats were also a trigger.

Then about 4 years ago, I nearly broke my nose, dancing of all things. Very late at night in Northern Australia. 

A doctor friend in Coffs Harbour, an ear, nose and throat specialist, operated on it and at the same time gave it a good scrape and clean out .

 That single event has changed my life so much. I no longer need to carry a handkerchief and am always breathing from two nostrils.

Visiting my parents in CHCH in NZ and the dry air there, used to see my nose red raw on my return home due to constantly blowing it.

I can now go anywhere and even be near cats without any runniness.

Being able to sleep in a hay shed is such a pleasure these days. Had there even been a cat on the scene all would have been hunky dory!

30/12/2013 Farm hut to the shores of Lago Cisnes

D86, T6/9, Av 13.46, Max54, Tot 23,914, 14,117

Wet all day

The bovine population around the hut were calling each other all night, a few found the hut interesting and were pushing on parts of it.

We both slept really well. It was comforting hearing the rain whilst we were dry.

We took advantage of our situation and got up early. I was up at 0600 typing my blog over coffee. Cal was soon up and we were on the road at the long unheard time of 0830.

It was still very wet outside, riding was easy and it did not take long to warm up.

The country now has that incredibly wet feel about it, there was water everywhere in streams, waterfalls, rivers and swamps.

Building this road must have been a huge exercise of moving gravel to elevate it above the natural ground level.

In almost all sections on the lowland, it is elevated.

We soon got to the first climb we knew about.

Here on the ranges around us, the ones we could see were tens of dozens of waterfalls, they were everywhere, the bigger ones could be heard.

It was a steady climb into more rocky country, with snow seemingly close by.

Near the peak a Condor was seen flying incredibly close, you could observe his head features.

All the time it was raining on and off.

We stopped after the descent in a tiny roadside hut about the size of an outhouse toilet.

It was great to be out of the wet and wind.

Here we indulged in Dulce and lovely hot milo.

We were making great kilometres. By about this time on most occasions we were just leaving camp.

It was flat for some time then we climbed again, after this it was great going just following a huge valley.

We were robbed of most good alpine vistas because of the overcast conditions.

The road was a filling shaker with half buried unavoidable stones on its surface.

Come 1500 hours we were in need of another rest and more to drink and eat.

A small tombe on the roadside offered great shelter for milo and soup with dulce on crackers, mate was also enjoyed.

We had done 65km on gravel and were pleased with ourselves.

Villa O’Higgins was reachable. We had decided to camp just short of the outpost.

The last stop on the Carretera Austral, this mythic village is alluring in its isolation. First settled by the English (1914– 16), the outpost attracted a few Chileans but the road didn’t arrive until 1999. The spectacular surroundings can be explored on horseback or foot, and there’s world-class fishing. A growing number of trekkers and cyclists are crossing over from El Chaltén, Argentina. Plans to create road access to Argentina via Entrada Mayer (slated for 2013) and add a strip of road between Candelaria Mansilla and Lago del Desierto (which would still require ferry use) will greatly facilitate travel to and from Argentina. Almost no one uses addresses but locals are happy to point you in the right direction. There’s no ATM here so bring the cash you will need.  Planet, Lonely.

From here we followed the shores of Lago Cisnes, at one point we could see pueblito of Villa O’ Higgins tucked under the ranges.

Crossing the Rio Desague, we took a sidetrack to look for a camp, this only lead to a farmhouse after two kilometres.

On entering the Austral again we rode on along a causeway along the shore of the lago. At a high point, a  track led down to the waters edge.

Here we found a great campsite on the shores in the trees to get out of the wind.

We were both worn out, out had been a huge day, most of our gear was wet.

 I perspire alot, so most of my clothing was wet including my foot wear.

The rain abated enough to pitch the tent ant cook dinner, that of pasta, onions and tuna, so good.

  

 

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