browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
Picture
Overlooking the Rift Valley 20km from Nairobi.
5-10/5/2015 Iten

Kenyan Riders Camp

Well my time here was a mixture of pleasure and pain. Arrival was with food poisoning and then two days in, kidney stones saw me spend a morning in the Iten hospital due to excruciating pain.

This pain continued for two days. I was so lucky that some Endone, an opiate painkiller is carried. This helped at night when the kidney stone was moving around.

My stay here was like being in a safe harbour in a storm. Everyone  here was so kind and helpful to me.

Naomi cooked each lunchtime and dinner. Nick and I shared a unit together in the complex.

His other housemate Simon was away with some cyclists for a few days.

An effort was made one night, to cook everyone dinner, I only got as far as completing the preparation, pain set in before it could be cooked, I was on the bed writhing in pain. Having had kidney stones before, the pain although strong could be tolerated with many affirmations helping.

Nick ended up cooking dinner.

The staff at the Iten hospital were great given the basic facilities they worked in .One nurse could not find a vein for the stent in either hand, even after 4 tries, my poor old hands were stinging .A doctor finally lodged it in my elbow joint. They told me they treat alot of mums and babies with AIDS here. In that respect my eye was always on where the various needles were coming from, all thankfully came from unopened packets.

I was put on a drip and given a shot of painkiller.

They also gave me a MRI to check it was not appendicitis. During this scan, a cyst was found on one of my kidneys. It was a non malignant, water cyst. They told me they are quite normal and there was no need for concern. Mayo clinic net info verified this.

Iten is on the edge of the escarpment overlooking the Rift Valley. The view just one kilometre west of our housing was spectacular to say the least.

I took my bike to Nixon the team mechanic, he stripped down the headset and found it rusty and very dirty. The sealed bearings were still in good condition.

The headset has been not quite tight for some time. With all the dirt and rust found it can be understood why.

He also tuned the gears. Each day whilst in town there were groups of runners training.

 

An evening was spent watching Barcelona beat the German team. Messi as usual was brilliant in scoring two goals.

I was so lucky to be in such good company here in Iten being not so well. My deep thanks goes to Nick, Ciuron, Scott, Zane, Nellie, Naomi and Simon for their kindness and hospitality, thanks to you all.  

 

10/5/2015 Iten to Burnt Forest

D80 (7 around Iten), T4.37, Av17.32, 40,546, 55516

Cool with storm clouds and a downpour at 1400hrs.

After having not had the kidney pain for a day and a night and feeling a lot better, it was decided to leave and just ride the short distance to Eldoret.

The ride was a short 25 odd km, mostly downhill. In Eldoret, directions were asked, these bypassed the town. The riding was still easy.

There were people on the side of the road selling chooks for 500 bob alive.

Since being in Kenya, there has been a constant presence of evangelical churches, everything from 7th dayers to wayward gospel churches and other organizations.

Whilst, as long as they don’t bother me it is ok. However, a two page article in the Daily Nation noted that these organizations are taking and asking for too much money from already poor people. They want a contribution for the service, then want more for construction or some other cause. Over and above all this, they are into tithing.

Many of these churches, often in tin sheds have loudspeakers going all day and night, preaching the word.

It is a total invasion of ones space.

The Mosques and Orthodox Christian churches in Ethiopia, Sudan and Egypt did the same. These are established religions and are a genuine part of life in these countries, and have been so for ages.

These Johnny come lately churches are behind the facade; money making organisations, where a charismatic preacher is doing his best to get people excited and in some cases scared. Both states of mind can lead people into giving money.

Often these entrepreneurs are living in big homes and drive expensive cars, whilst their flock is struggling but always asked to contribute.

These organisations tend to rob people of their traditions as well.

I have seen this in Nicaragua and in the Louisiade Archipelago south of Papua New Guinea.

Along with colonialism, this kind of exploitation has been going on since new worlds were discovered.

People with strong cultures regardless of their wealth, in my observations seem to have little time for these organisations in their lives. Most of Peru for example.

After heading south for some time, the road was getting very busy with semis carting full and empty containers. This was odd as the road I was meaning to take was a back road. Everyone asked said this was the way to Kaptagat.

Later in the day on checking my compass I was heading south not SW.

Asking people who knew, it was found I was on the main road south to Nakuru.

It was no problem, except that Kaptagat would not be visited.

At 1500, a looming front was ahead down the road. On pulling into a gas station there were plenty of other people watching the oncoming storm. I donned my raincoat and new over pants and headed off.

Down it came. It was torrential, there was at least a uniform 25mm of water on the shoulder of the road. It was cold rain, my altitude was around 2000m.

Burnt Forest, a village with hotels was 7km away. Occasionally I was getting a good splashing from trucks, they could not move aside with oncoming traffic.

The main road had a good shoulder, so my safety was never compromised.

Arriving in Burnt Forest wet through except for my legs. A ground level hotel was found. It was so good to be under a roof. My panniers leaked again. The plastic bags used with saved the day.

My Marmot Minimialist raincoat seems to have lost its waterproof qualities. It was wet inside and out. Consequently, my upper body and clothing were wet. Definitely not from sweat.

Ken, a timber buyer from Mombasa and I shared a tea in a local cafe and later went out for dinner. He regularly comes up here from the coast to buy pine and Eucalypt. He buys standing trees and mills it before hauling it back to Mombasa where he makes a good profit.

It was a cold evening, as usual I slept in my sleeping bag, a mosquito net was not necessary.

A guy was stoking a fire under a big steel tank full of water all night. My room had a strong smell of smoke about it .

 

 11/5/2015 Burnt Forest to Eldama Ravine

D71, T4.27, Av16.06, max63 40,612, 5,587

Around 2200-2600m most of day, got to my hotel before a storm at 1730

Crossed the equator, now in the Southern Hemisphere.  

Much of my riding gear was still wet in the morning even though I had hung it up in the room.

 A great hot bucket shower was enjoyed with very hot water from the big urn, a shave was had also.

It was a brilliantly clear day, nice and crisp as usual after a tropical downpour. My clothes were hung out for a while in the hot equatorial sun, even at 0800 in the morning.

Breakfast of mendasi, coffee and scrambled eggs was enjoyed down the road. Getting there was an exercise in avoiding the sticky mud everywhere.

Incidentally, the hotel had no power the whole time I was there, a pole had fallen over at this end of the village, up the road was not affected.

I was on the road by 0830.

As soon as the village was out of view, the terrain became rolling hill country. I was continually climbing and descending but overall continually getting higher.

The good shoulder still prevailed, as did the numerous trucks. They were mostly very cautious about my presence.

There were some long climbs three or more km.

Nearing what appeared to be the top at 2600m, a minivan bus, Matatu,  was pulled over. Ken was out on the road, he stopped me for a chat.

 The sun was still not obstructed by any clouds. It was still cool when stopping for a time.

From here it was generally downhill for a change. The town of Equator, aptly named was 15km away. The countryside is now just a lush green, people are growing potatoes, cabbages and maize of course for ugali.

Descending a large hill in the slipstream of a truck, the official sign saying you have entered the southern hemisphere was missed. In the town of Equator they said it was back up the hill some. There was no way, a ride back up was going to be made.

Concentrating, coming down the hill at 60 plus km/hr had seen me miss it.

From here, it was some 7km to the Eldama Ravine turnoff. Views of the Rift Valley were now ahead.

 In Equator, some capsicum, tomatoes and onions were bought along with six slices of bread, the woman kindly opened a sliced loaf to give me what was needed.

A few km from here at some deserted roadside stalls, great sandwiches were enjoyed, while some gear that got wet yesterday was put out to dry in the hot sun.

Soon coming to the turnoff to Eldama, people were selling produce near the intersection. Some Tree Tomatoes were bought, having not eaten them for years, one was tried before the whole bag was bought.

They did not present well but inside their sweetness was fantastic, no hesitation was made in buying the rest.

Down the hill at the left hand turn the matatu guys told me it was 17km into Eldama Ravine. It was beautiful rural riding away from the trucks. Mostly downhill as well. A stop was made, half way in to enjoy the Tree Tomatoes.

Once in town, a driver had told me to go to Taidies because it was cheap, it was out of town down a hill. On arrival, the reception told me it was 1500 bob a night. No good to me. Riding back up the hill, and into town, the Venus cafe and hotel was looked at. It was perfect and had a suicide hot shower, how good it was to have two hot showers in one day. One was even at the turn of a tap.

Wandering around town, a printing shop with heavy weight A4 paper was found. They printed up some more basic cards for me.

These small towns offer the best easily found facilities all within walking distances and people are generally very honest with their prices. I had made it here without getting caught in a storm. It was great to be under a roof before the inevitable cloud build up bought the afternoon storm. Sure enough just on dark the skies darkened and down it came in buckets. There was lightening, thunder and surface water almost getting into my room.

Within one hour, it was all over.

Dinner was enjoyed at the Venus restaurant. As were some great chips soon after my shower. 

12/5/2015  Eldama Ravine to Nakuru

D61, T3.2, Av18.23, max58 40,612, 5,648

Overcast, light shower, otherwise dry and warm in the valley

It had rained heavily into the night. The morning was overcast and things were damp. Though in this climate it is a constant wetting drying process over and over again during the wet seasons.

If the days are planned with some regard to the rain pattern you can sneak around keeping dry. Mornings are best, you need to be close to your destination by 1400 at the latest.

Away about 0830, the riding was easy. It was a slow descent all the way into the Rift Valley below. It was still overcast, the clouds were high and rain was not threatening, however one low cloud passed over that contained a few spots. No Matatus heading towards me were wet so there was no need to done wet weather gear. The temperature was getting warmer all the time.

The road was taking me down from 2600m into the valley.

There were small villages most of the way down.

Again the names were great, one was called Middle World.

Some delicious honey was bought at a roadside stall in Muserechi. This was later enjoyed on Chapati in another tiny village, Molo River.

Along most of the way were people who owned a few cows tending them as they fed along the roadside.

The riding continued to be gently downhill.

Coming to the right hand turn to Nakuru after some 34km, the road began to gently climb.

It was still great riding, traffic was light and most drivers were cautious. It was now getting very hot, a reminder of my latitude.

The most common vehicles on the road were Matatus, Neelams and motos.

Once the slow ascent was made, it was then gently down into Nakuru.

On arrival, I asked people for the directions to a cheap hotel, for me 300 to 500 bob.

Down three streets from the big mall saw me book a room at the Indica hotel.

Here washing was done. A walk was then taken to this big western mall.

Inside was a supermarket come everything else of huge proportions. One could even argue the range was better than in Aussie.

I am trying to get what I need in these smaller towns so I don’t have to go hunting all over Nairobi.

Once done, a great meal was enjoyed on the corner near the hotel.

 

13/5/2015  Nakuru to Longonot, Eldama Hotel

D94, T5.3, Av16.94, max54 40,772, 5,742

Overcast, rained from 1630 to 1800

The restaurant next door was frequented again with my bottle of honey which is great on fresh chapatti. The road from Nakuru was incredibly busy with trucks. There was a good shoulder so it was no problem.

This was the main highway so hills were gentle. Many people were seen riding bicycles near the villages. People even this close to the city were still tending goats and cattle on the roadside.

There were small towns most of the way. My panniers are letting in some water so a stop was made to coat the bottom of them with the glue bought in Iten. The humidity was back in full force again though there was cool air about so with momentum it was not to uncomfortable.

After stopping for lunch in Gil Gil, the woman tried to charge me 40sh for a small bottle of coke. I gave her an earful about what I normally pay and she dropped the price back to 30 bob.

There was a reasonable climb on from the town, once at the top I felt very dizzy and beside myself. It was an odd sensation and not very nice. I soon recovered but for a while there, it was a bit concerning.

Another stop was made to put more glue on the panniers, a young boy on a bicycle came alongside and commenced riding with me when I was leaving. He was talking Swahili and a  little English but knew enough to finally ask for money after a couple of km.

“Me giving you money!! No way” I said, he soon departed.

Further on there were fenced areas, here antelope and Zebras were seen grazing in the landscape beyond.

At times, they were very close to the road. All animals in many respects today are fenced in, some just live in bigger paddocks, such is mans advance across landscapes of the world.

A fresh pineapple was enjoyed on the way off the highway.

At Naivasha, lunch was had in town, none of this elusive glue could be found in any hardware shops, of which there are dozens in every town. After fake mobile phone shops they are the greatest in number.

From here I took route C88 south, though it is of the highway it was busy with trucks, the shoulder was not as good as the highway.

Mt Longonot could be seen the whole way, on my right. There was a small patch of snow on it highest ridge.

Up ahead what looked like a couple of other touring cyclist could be seen. On getting closer, it was. They were a Dutch couple who were backpacking in Uganda and decided to by bikes and continue that way. Susanah and Marco were a hardcase couple.

They both had dreadlocks and appeared rather unprepared for cycling. Their bikes were old second hand mountain bikes and they just had their backpackes tied onto the back of their bikes.

They both smoked and chewed chat. At the end of the day you don’t need all thehigh tech gear.

Putting this aside we got on well and enjoyed each others company and rode on together. By now it was beginning to rain. We had 15km to get to Longonot. The road was flat but it was getting dark and we were all getting wet.

I put my rear tail light on just for safety.

We finally got into Longonot at 1630 very wet and myself very worn out.

Luckily, after asking we pulled into the Eldarma Hotel and got great rooms with hot showers for 300sh. I got cleaned up and ate across the road.

The town was just a big truck stop. Trucks lined the street on both sides.

It was nice to sleep between sheets feeling fresh and clean.

 

14/5/2015   Longonot to Kikuyu

D56,

Overcast, rained from 1630 to 1800

On getting up things were still wet outside. We headed across the road for breakfast, again with my bottle of honey to put on the mendasis we bought.

Marco and Susannah left before me. I was a bit slow packing. We had arranged to meet in an hour or two.  

 The skies soon cleared. It was a great 15km gentle downhill ride to Maai Maihu.

This was another trucking town. It was at the foot of a 16km climb. Though it was the back road it was incredibly busy just with trucks and the odd passenger vehicle.

The rain was still at bay. Some 5km into the climb, the others were waiting on the roadside for me. We all had a rest for a while.

The climbing was not to steep but just kept going. Marco had seen a troop of Baboons on the road.

The shoulder was mostly nonexistent, luckily most vehicles were moving very slowly whether descending or ascending. Some trucks descending had smoke pouring off their rear wheels accompanied with the telltale smell of brake linings almost on fire. A stop was made to buy some pears from roadside sellers.

Nearing the top after levelling out some there were a number of roadside curio shops selling mainly animal skin products.

Putting these aside the view down into the Rift Valley on our right was absolutely spectacular.

The altitude was about 2400m. This road is marked on my map as a scenic route, What it doesn’t say is how many trucks use it.

Though busy we never really felt unsafe.

Once at the top a great descent began all the way to Kikuyu. The road surface could not be trusted so we were using our brakes heavily at times.

Traffic was now typical of being near a large city, consistent, smelly, and noisy.

Stopping near the turn off to Kikuyu, nature gave me a big calling, luckily there was some dirt piles nearby. I’m getting used to diarrhoea on and off now. It does not impede my progress. A roll of toilet paper is always carried in my bar bag for such emergencies.

In town we finally found a comfortable hotel At 100sh/night, the Mara.

We had a great hot shower each, before going out for dinner I had my haircut. A quick going over with a number 4 for 100 bob.

We headed out for dinner, both Susannah and Marco were vegetarians so we had a great meal of beans and ugali.

We then went onto a bar and had a humorous night till midnight, a late but great night.

 

 

 

 

15/5/2015  Kikuyu to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi

D50, T3.1, Av15.59, max51 40,822, 5,792

Fine all day

It had been a comfortable night’s sleep in sheets for a change. A walk was made to the hardware shop in an effort to find this great Basco Perma Bond glue. They too had none of the product. Back at the hotel, Marco and Susanna were still getting ready. We were in no hurry. Once they were up we tuned their rear derallieur. I have some tuition moves off the net. We followed these and Susanna took her bike for a ride. It worked perfectly. We were all very happy about this.

Across the road was a little cafe for locals. A great breakfast of beans and mendasi was enjoyed. Once on the road it was about avoiding the congested traffic. It was pretty much urbanised all the way.

The other road users were courteous towards us, we had no problems riding the often rough and littered shoulders.

Following the maps with me app on my phone we made it to the main intersection in Karen in a couple of hours. Karen is one of the more exclusive suburbs in Nairobi. Here people have large homes on quarter acre properties. Largely ex pats and other foreigners.

Here at the roundabout. We were going our different ways, they were heading south to Tanzania and I was continuing on Nairobi national Park to my Warmshowers hosts at Ongata Rongai.

It had been great to have been in their company for a few days, we all had a great time.

Stops were made at another couple of hardware shops looking for the glue. I have carried this type of glue for the last couple of years. It comes in amazingly handy for almost anything that breaks or leaks. My panniers have small holes in them and the glue keeps water out. It even sealed my pot. Also great for shoe repairs.

At another intersection was a huge Galleria shopping centre. I pulled in here and the security guys kept an eye on my bike. Security is very strict at these places. Cars are searched and people scanned before entering the complex. Al Shabaab really has the Kenyans on full alert. The college they attacked is now permanently closed which is sad because that is precisely one result they wanted.

Once inside, the large Nakumatt store was checked out. The shops have almost exactly the same products and selection as back in Australia.

The formula is the same, minimal service, it is just about selling product.

There was a bike shop in here. My computer is almost worn out a rubber band is now needed to hold it in its mount, while repairing the headset in Iten we accidently broke the wiring. It still works but maybe for not to long. The shop had one at a heavily inflated price.

Most people who want high tech gear bring it in when they return to their respective countries.

It was not purchased.

The road from here to me around the southern edge of Nairobi National Park.

Here most animalsreside and some of the predators right on the edge of the city.

Once in Ongata, a busy thriving main road with markets and a myriad of shops and people on the roadside.

At the proposed meeting place, I asked a girl where the Tuskys supermarket was. Unbelievably, it was the daughter of Francis my Warmshowers host.

Out of all the thousands of people wandering around I ask her where the meeting place was.

 

I got some chicken at the supermarket and Faith and I walked back to her parents house. She is studying computers at university and was on her way home.

Once there after walking along a dirt road littered with puddles of brown water, she introduced me to her family.

Their flat was in a building of four. Their family was 5 children strong. They all get up early and head to school.

Francis and Jan are incredibly kind people. I feel a little guilty as in the house there are 2 bedrooms and I have one of them. They assured me it was not an issue. I said no more.

Jan cooked up a great traditional meal with meat and ugali.

It was great to be in a house with a local family.

 

16-21/5/2015 Ongata Rongai

Francis and Jans house and the Magadi Road Guesthouse.

It was an hour or so trip into downtown Nairobi from here, depending on traffic. A small bus or minivan was used. Either way it was between 50 and 100 bob.

There were many things that needed to be done.

Most important was to get stamped into the country, this was done on the Monday at the immigration building in the city. Here there were no problems, just a copy of my visa and passport main page were needed. They even gave me an extra month here.

My visa for three months had commenced on issue in Addis almost two months ago.

New sunglasses were bought, my old ones had broken at the nose bridge. Maps and an old hard drive were sent home, to reduce weight.

New riding shorts were bought. Malanil for malaria prophylaxis was bought. They were 175 ks for 12 about $2.40/ tablet. The same product in Australia is $A 65/pack.

No prescription needed. With a visit to a doctor in Australia for the prescription, they could run out at $80/ pack, depending on how many needed.

I had to arrange to have my rear wheel rebuilt by a mechanic here, this was done. Lunch was also enjoyed in the Ya Ya centre with Simon, the Aussie guy who is coaching the Kenyan Riders.

Each night Jan cooked up a great traditional Kenyan meal. I pitched in for meat and other things. My old speaker has lost its hard wire capabilities, it was given to Ian, oher oldest son. He was wrapped.

Jan was telling me about a neighbour of hers, a woman in her thirties who visited another area of Kenya. On her return a week or two later, she got a headache and took some Panadol. It got worse. She had in fact contracted cerebral malaria in the other town and had not realised. By the time they diagnosed it, she was very ill and died three days later in hospital.

The cerebral malaria is the one to watch. Any odd health problems like headaches or loss of appetite or spewing and any symptoms resembling the flu need to be addressed. It is only a simple blood test that will indicate the presence of parasites that have breed in the liver then have released the new parasites into the red blood cells.

The three of us, Ben, Callum and myself are going to take prophylaxis medication, Malanil which is the same as Malarone.

She also went onto to say that a lot of men who seek affairs outside their married life often introduce AIDs into their families.

This wait here in Ongata is because my two sons Ben and Callum fly in with their bicycles on the 22nd May. It has been since August last year we were together. We are going to do the ride to Cape Town together over the next six months.

It is hard to believe they are going to be here. It will be something incredibly special riding together here in Africa.

Ongata Rongai is a great place, it is close to the city and has everything at reasonable prices. If you want to go to upmarket shopping centre, Galleria Karen is only 20 minutes away in a bus on the way to the city.

Here things are just as inflated as anywhere in the world. As most retailers are working a few days just to pay their rent.

In Ongata Ian took me to a market where they sell, second hand clothes and shoes from the states, here I bought shorts for 150 bob, they were authentic brand sports pants hardly worn.

Nairobi had adevasting couple of days of rain a week ago. Luckily due to that deluge it has been mostly fine since I have been here. All the roads are lined with mud and the side roads are just dirt. S soon as it rains they turn into a muddy mess.

Though in the sun they dry out incredibly quick.

There are puddles everywhere, perfect mossy breeding grounds. However Jan said malaria is not to common here in town .

My stay with them for 5 days was so relaxing and enjoyable just being with a normal family here in Nairobi. I am almost the only mzungu in Ongata, people are getting used to my presence.  

 

Picture
First Glimpse of the fauna.
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Susannah and Marco, great company for a couple of days.
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My night to cook, an Asian stir fry, kept everyone happy.
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Ongata Rongai, donkeys, goats, people and rubbish everywhere but a vibrant community of friendly helpful people. You can get all you want here.
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Jan and Francis' daughter Miley, such a cutie and a real cuddlebug. It is not hard to see why people fall in love with the African children.
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Dropping down from Eldama Ravine into the rift valley
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Looking back up to Eldama Ravine from the Rift Valley floor.
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Ken, the timber buyer from Mombasa, at our hot water supply in the hotel at Burnt Forest, a guy was stoking the fire all night.
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Some of the crew at the Kenyan Riders camp. Zane Robertson a NZ commonwealth bronze medalist distance runner on the right. Training here for the world athletic comp and Brazil Olympics. great company for a week.
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Arriving in Nakuru.
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Typical food, Ugali, cabbage and goat meat. I have become quite a fan of this meat, it is sweet and very tender.
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Pulling in for a hip flask full of the famous Rift Valley honey. Just great on Chapati
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Fresh is best, 500 bob each, main road to Nakuru. About $AU7.00. Note they are tied together, they are worth nothing flush with the asphalt!!
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Even on the main road people were still tending their animals as they fed.
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Pulling in late to Longonot, wet but happy to find a guest house in short time.
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No forgetting the price of the room, Longonot
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These "wayward churches" are everywhere. Interestingly Faith, where I am staying in Ongata said, "though she is a Christian, I read the bible at home, as many of these churches are corrupt". Not the first time I have heard someone say that here. The word from the shed was very loud coming from the speaker under the eave.
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