Overlooking the Rift Valley 20km from Nairobi.
5-10/5/2015 Iten
Kenyan Riders Camp
Well my time here was a mixture of pleasure and pain. Arrival was with food poisoning and then two days in, kidney stones saw me spend a morning in the Iten hospital due to excruciating pain.
This pain continued for two days. I was so lucky that some Endone, an opiate painkiller is carried. This helped at night when the kidney stone was moving around.
My stay here was like being in a safe harbour in a storm. Everyone here was so kind and helpful to me.
Naomi cooked each lunchtime and dinner. Nick and I shared a unit together in the complex.
His other housemate Simon was away with some cyclists for a few days.
An effort was made one night, to cook everyone dinner, I only got as far as completing the preparation, pain set in before it could be cooked, I was on the bed writhing in pain. Having had kidney stones before, the pain although strong could be tolerated with many affirmations helping.
Nick ended up cooking dinner.
The staff at the Iten hospital were great given the basic facilities they worked in .One nurse could not find a vein for the stent in either hand, even after 4 tries, my poor old hands were stinging .A doctor finally lodged it in my elbow joint. They told me they treat alot of mums and babies with AIDS here. In that respect my eye was always on where the various needles were coming from, all thankfully came from unopened packets.
I was put on a drip and given a shot of painkiller.
They also gave me a MRI to check it was not appendicitis. During this scan, a cyst was found on one of my kidneys. It was a non malignant, water cyst. They told me they are quite normal and there was no need for concern. Mayo clinic net info verified this.
Iten is on the edge of the escarpment overlooking the Rift Valley. The view just one kilometre west of our housing was spectacular to say the least.
I took my bike to Nixon the team mechanic, he stripped down the headset and found it rusty and very dirty. The sealed bearings were still in good condition.
The headset has been not quite tight for some time. With all the dirt and rust found it can be understood why.
He also tuned the gears. Each day whilst in town there were groups of runners training.
An evening was spent watching Barcelona beat the German team. Messi as usual was brilliant in scoring two goals.
I was so lucky to be in such good company here in Iten being not so well. My deep thanks goes to Nick, Ciuron, Scott, Zane, Nellie, Naomi and Simon for their kindness and hospitality, thanks to you all.
10/5/2015 Iten to Burnt Forest
D80 (7 around Iten), T4.37, Av17.32, 40,546, 55516
Cool with storm clouds and a downpour at 1400hrs.
After having not had the kidney pain for a day and a night and feeling a lot better, it was decided to leave and just ride the short distance to Eldoret.
The ride was a short 25 odd km, mostly downhill. In Eldoret, directions were asked, these bypassed the town. The riding was still easy.
There were people on the side of the road selling chooks for 500 bob alive.
Since being in Kenya, there has been a constant presence of evangelical churches, everything from 7th dayers to wayward gospel churches and other organizations.
Whilst, as long as they don’t bother me it is ok. However, a two page article in the Daily Nation noted that these organizations are taking and asking for too much money from already poor people. They want a contribution for the service, then want more for construction or some other cause. Over and above all this, they are into tithing.
Many of these churches, often in tin sheds have loudspeakers going all day and night, preaching the word.
It is a total invasion of ones space.
The Mosques and Orthodox Christian churches in Ethiopia, Sudan and Egypt did the same. These are established religions and are a genuine part of life in these countries, and have been so for ages.
These Johnny come lately churches are behind the facade; money making organisations, where a charismatic preacher is doing his best to get people excited and in some cases scared. Both states of mind can lead people into giving money.
Often these entrepreneurs are living in big homes and drive expensive cars, whilst their flock is struggling but always asked to contribute.
These organisations tend to rob people of their traditions as well.
I have seen this in Nicaragua and in the Louisiade Archipelago south of Papua New Guinea.
Along with colonialism, this kind of exploitation has been going on since new worlds were discovered.
People with strong cultures regardless of their wealth, in my observations seem to have little time for these organisations in their lives. Most of Peru for example.
After heading south for some time, the road was getting very busy with semis carting full and empty containers. This was odd as the road I was meaning to take was a back road. Everyone asked said this was the way to Kaptagat.
Later in the day on checking my compass I was heading south not SW.
Asking people who knew, it was found I was on the main road south to Nakuru.
It was no problem, except that Kaptagat would not be visited.
At 1500, a looming front was ahead down the road. On pulling into a gas station there were plenty of other people watching the oncoming storm. I donned my raincoat and new over pants and headed off.
Down it came. It was torrential, there was at least a uniform 25mm of water on the shoulder of the road. It was cold rain, my altitude was around 2000m.
Burnt Forest, a village with hotels was 7km away. Occasionally I was getting a good splashing from trucks, they could not move aside with oncoming traffic.
The main road had a good shoulder, so my safety was never compromised.
Arriving in Burnt Forest wet through except for my legs. A ground level hotel was found. It was so good to be under a roof. My panniers leaked again. The plastic bags used with saved the day.
My Marmot Minimialist raincoat seems to have lost its waterproof qualities. It was wet inside and out. Consequently, my upper body and clothing were wet. Definitely not from sweat.
Ken, a timber buyer from Mombasa and I shared a tea in a local cafe and later went out for dinner. He regularly comes up here from the coast to buy pine and Eucalypt. He buys standing trees and mills it before hauling it back to Mombasa where he makes a good profit.
It was a cold evening, as usual I slept in my sleeping bag, a mosquito net was not necessary.
A guy was stoking a fire under a big steel tank full of water all night. My room had a strong smell of smoke about it .
11/5/2015 Burnt Forest to Eldama Ravine
D71, T4.27, Av16.06, max63 40,612, 5,587
Around 2200-2600m most of day, got to my hotel before a storm at 1730
Crossed the equator, now in the Southern Hemisphere.
Much of my riding gear was still wet in the morning even though I had hung it up in the room.
A great hot bucket shower was enjoyed with very hot water from the big urn, a shave was had also.
It was a brilliantly clear day, nice and crisp as usual after a tropical downpour. My clothes were hung out for a while in the hot equatorial sun, even at 0800 in the morning.
Breakfast of mendasi, coffee and scrambled eggs was enjoyed down the road. Getting there was an exercise in avoiding the sticky mud everywhere.
Incidentally, the hotel had no power the whole time I was there, a pole had fallen over at this end of the village, up the road was not affected.
I was on the road by 0830.
As soon as the village was out of view, the terrain became rolling hill country. I was continually climbing and descending but overall continually getting higher.
The good shoulder still prevailed, as did the numerous trucks. They were mostly very cautious about my presence.
There were some long climbs three or more km.
Nearing what appeared to be the top at 2600m, a minivan bus, Matatu, was pulled over. Ken was out on the road, he stopped me for a chat.
The sun was still not obstructed by any clouds. It was still cool when stopping for a time.
From here it was generally downhill for a change. The town of Equator, aptly named was 15km away. The countryside is now just a lush green, people are growing potatoes, cabbages and maize of course for ugali.
Descending a large hill in the slipstream of a truck, the official sign saying you have entered the southern hemisphere was missed. In the town of Equator they said it was back up the hill some. There was no way, a ride back up was going to be made.
Concentrating, coming down the hill at 60 plus km/hr had seen me miss it.
From here, it was some 7km to the Eldama Ravine turnoff. Views of the Rift Valley were now ahead.
In Equator, some capsicum, tomatoes and onions were bought along with six slices of bread, the woman kindly opened a sliced loaf to give me what was needed.
A few km from here at some deserted roadside stalls, great sandwiches were enjoyed, while some gear that got wet yesterday was put out to dry in the hot sun.
Soon coming to the turnoff to Eldama, people were selling produce near the intersection. Some Tree Tomatoes were bought, having not eaten them for years, one was tried before the whole bag was bought.
They did not present well but inside their sweetness was fantastic, no hesitation was made in buying the rest.
Down the hill at the left hand turn the matatu guys told me it was 17km into Eldama Ravine. It was beautiful rural riding away from the trucks. Mostly downhill as well. A stop was made, half way in to enjoy the Tree Tomatoes.
Once in town, a driver had told me to go to Taidies because it was cheap, it was out of town down a hill. On arrival, the reception told me it was 1500 bob a night. No good to me. Riding back up the hill, and into town, the Venus cafe and hotel was looked at. It was perfect and had a suicide hot shower, how good it was to have two hot showers in one day. One was even at the turn of a tap.
Wandering around town, a printing shop with heavy weight A4 paper was found. They printed up some more basic cards for me.
These small towns offer the best easily found facilities all within walking distances and people are generally very honest with their prices. I had made it here without getting caught in a storm. It was great to be under a roof before the inevitable cloud build up bought the afternoon storm. Sure enough just on dark the skies darkened and down it came in buckets. There was lightening, thunder and surface water almost getting into my room.
Within one hour, it was all over.
Dinner was enjoyed at the Venus restaurant. As were some great chips soon after my shower.
12/5/2015 Eldama Ravine to Nakuru
D61, T3.2, Av18.23, max58 40,612, 5,648
Overcast, light shower, otherwise dry and warm in the valley
It had rained heavily into the night. The morning was overcast and things were damp. Though in this climate it is a constant wetting drying process over and over again during the wet seasons.
If the days are planned with some regard to the rain pattern you can sneak around keeping dry. Mornings are best, you need to be close to your destination by 1400 at the latest.
Away about 0830, the riding was easy. It was a slow descent all the way into the Rift Valley below. It was still overcast, the clouds were high and rain was not threatening, however one low cloud passed over that contained a few spots. No Matatus heading towards me were wet so there was no need to done wet weather gear. The temperature was getting warmer all the time.
The road was taking me down from 2600m into the valley.
There were small villages most of the way down.
Again the names were great, one was called Middle World.
Some delicious honey was bought at a roadside stall in Muserechi. This was later enjoyed on Chapati in another tiny village, Molo River.
Along most of the way were people who owned a few cows tending them as they fed along the roadside.
The riding continued to be gently downhill.
Coming to the right hand turn to Nakuru after some 34km, the road began to gently climb.
It was still great riding, traffic was light and most drivers were cautious. It was now getting very hot, a reminder of my latitude.
The most common vehicles on the road were Matatus, Neelams and motos.
Once the slow ascent was made, it was then gently down into Nakuru.
On arrival, I asked people for the directions to a cheap hotel, for me 300 to 500 bob.
Down three streets from the big mall saw me book a room at the Indica hotel.
Here washing was done. A walk was then taken to this big western mall.
Inside was a supermarket come everything else of huge proportions. One could even argue the range was better than in Aussie.
I am trying to get what I need in these smaller towns so I don’t have to go hunting all over Nairobi.
Once done, a great meal was enjoyed on the corner near the hotel.
13/5/2015 Nakuru to Longonot, Eldama Hotel
D94, T5.3, Av16.94, max54 40,772, 5,742
Overcast, rained from 1630 to 1800
The restaurant next door was frequented again with my bottle of honey which is great on fresh chapatti. The road from Nakuru was incredibly busy with trucks. There was a good shoulder so it was no problem.
This was the main highway so hills were gentle. Many people were seen riding bicycles near the villages. People even this close to the city were still tending goats and cattle on the roadside.
There were small towns most of the way. My panniers are letting in some water so a stop was made to coat the bottom of them with the glue bought in Iten. The humidity was back in full force again though there was cool air about so with momentum it was not to uncomfortable.
After stopping for lunch in Gil Gil, the woman tried to charge me 40sh for a small bottle of coke. I gave her an earful about what I normally pay and she dropped the price back to 30 bob.
There was a reasonable climb on from the town, once at the top I felt very dizzy and beside myself. It was an odd sensation and not very nice. I soon recovered but for a while there, it was a bit concerning.
Another stop was made to put more glue on the panniers, a young boy on a bicycle came alongside and commenced riding with me when I was leaving. He was talking Swahili and a little English but knew enough to finally ask for money after a couple of km.
“Me giving you money!! No way” I said, he soon departed.
Further on there were fenced areas, here antelope and Zebras were seen grazing in the landscape beyond.
At times, they were very close to the road. All animals in many respects today are fenced in, some just live in bigger paddocks, such is mans advance across landscapes of the world.
A fresh pineapple was enjoyed on the way off the highway.
At Naivasha, lunch was had in town, none of this elusive glue could be found in any hardware shops, of which there are dozens in every town. After fake mobile phone shops they are the greatest in number.
From here I took route C88 south, though it is of the highway it was busy with trucks, the shoulder was not as good as the highway.
Mt Longonot could be seen the whole way, on my right. There was a small patch of snow on it highest ridge.
Up ahead what looked like a couple of other touring cyclist could be seen. On getting closer, it was. They were a Dutch couple who were backpacking in Uganda and decided to by bikes and continue that way. Susanah and Marco were a hardcase couple.
They both had dreadlocks and appeared rather unprepared for cycling. Their bikes were old second hand mountain bikes and they just had their backpackes tied onto the back of their bikes.
They both smoked and chewed chat. At the end of the day you don’t need all thehigh tech gear.
Putting this aside we got on well and enjoyed each others company and rode on together. By now it was beginning to rain. We had 15km to get to Longonot. The road was flat but it was getting dark and we were all getting wet.
I put my rear tail light on just for safety.
We finally got into Longonot at 1630 very wet and myself very worn out.
Luckily, after asking we pulled into the Eldarma Hotel and got great rooms with hot showers for 300sh. I got cleaned up and ate across the road.
The town was just a big truck stop. Trucks lined the street on both sides.
It was nice to sleep between sheets feeling fresh and clean.
14/5/2015 Longonot to Kikuyu
D56,
Overcast, rained from 1630 to 1800
On getting up things were still wet outside. We headed across the road for breakfast, again with my bottle of honey to put on the mendasis we bought.
Marco and Susannah left before me. I was a bit slow packing. We had arranged to meet in an hour or two.
The skies soon cleared. It was a great 15km gentle downhill ride to Maai Maihu.
This was another trucking town. It was at the foot of a 16km climb. Though it was the back road it was incredibly busy just with trucks and the odd passenger vehicle.
The rain was still at bay. Some 5km into the climb, the others were waiting on the roadside for me. We all had a rest for a while.
The climbing was not to steep but just kept going. Marco had seen a troop of Baboons on the road.
The shoulder was mostly nonexistent, luckily most vehicles were moving very slowly whether descending or ascending. Some trucks descending had smoke pouring off their rear wheels accompanied with the telltale smell of brake linings almost on fire. A stop was made to buy some pears from roadside sellers.
Nearing the top after levelling out some there were a number of roadside curio shops selling mainly animal skin products.
Putting these aside the view down into the Rift Valley on our right was absolutely spectacular.
The altitude was about 2400m. This road is marked on my map as a scenic route, What it doesn’t say is how many trucks use it.
Though busy we never really felt unsafe.
Once at the top a great descent began all the way to Kikuyu. The road surface could not be trusted so we were using our brakes heavily at times.
Traffic was now typical of being near a large city, consistent, smelly, and noisy.
Stopping near the turn off to Kikuyu, nature gave me a big calling, luckily there was some dirt piles nearby. I’m getting used to diarrhoea on and off now. It does not impede my progress. A roll of toilet paper is always carried in my bar bag for such emergencies.
In town we finally found a comfortable hotel At 100sh/night, the Mara.
We had a great hot shower each, before going out for dinner I had my haircut. A quick going over with a number 4 for 100 bob.
We headed out for dinner, both Susannah and Marco were vegetarians so we had a great meal of beans and ugali.
We then went onto a bar and had a humorous night till midnight, a late but great night.
15/5/2015 Kikuyu to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi
D50, T3.1, Av15.59, max51 40,822, 5,792
Fine all day
It had been a comfortable night’s sleep in sheets for a change. A walk was made to the hardware shop in an effort to find this great Basco Perma Bond glue. They too had none of the product. Back at the hotel, Marco and Susanna were still getting ready. We were in no hurry. Once they were up we tuned their rear derallieur. I have some tuition moves off the net. We followed these and Susanna took her bike for a ride. It worked perfectly. We were all very happy about this.
Across the road was a little cafe for locals. A great breakfast of beans and mendasi was enjoyed. Once on the road it was about avoiding the congested traffic. It was pretty much urbanised all the way.
The other road users were courteous towards us, we had no problems riding the often rough and littered shoulders.
Following the maps with me app on my phone we made it to the main intersection in Karen in a couple of hours. Karen is one of the more exclusive suburbs in Nairobi. Here people have large homes on quarter acre properties. Largely ex pats and other foreigners.
Here at the roundabout. We were going our different ways, they were heading south to Tanzania and I was continuing on Nairobi national Park to my Warmshowers hosts at Ongata Rongai.
It had been great to have been in their company for a few days, we all had a great time.
Stops were made at another couple of hardware shops looking for the glue. I have carried this type of glue for the last couple of years. It comes in amazingly handy for almost anything that breaks or leaks. My panniers have small holes in them and the glue keeps water out. It even sealed my pot. Also great for shoe repairs.
At another intersection was a huge Galleria shopping centre. I pulled in here and the security guys kept an eye on my bike. Security is very strict at these places. Cars are searched and people scanned before entering the complex. Al Shabaab really has the Kenyans on full alert. The college they attacked is now permanently closed which is sad because that is precisely one result they wanted.
Once inside, the large Nakumatt store was checked out. The shops have almost exactly the same products and selection as back in Australia.
The formula is the same, minimal service, it is just about selling product.
There was a bike shop in here. My computer is almost worn out a rubber band is now needed to hold it in its mount, while repairing the headset in Iten we accidently broke the wiring. It still works but maybe for not to long. The shop had one at a heavily inflated price.
Most people who want high tech gear bring it in when they return to their respective countries.
It was not purchased.
The road from here to me around the southern edge of Nairobi National Park.
Here most animalsreside and some of the predators right on the edge of the city.
Once in Ongata, a busy thriving main road with markets and a myriad of shops and people on the roadside.
At the proposed meeting place, I asked a girl where the Tuskys supermarket was. Unbelievably, it was the daughter of Francis my Warmshowers host.
Out of all the thousands of people wandering around I ask her where the meeting place was.
I got some chicken at the supermarket and Faith and I walked back to her parents house. She is studying computers at university and was on her way home.
Once there after walking along a dirt road littered with puddles of brown water, she introduced me to her family.
Their flat was in a building of four. Their family was 5 children strong. They all get up early and head to school.
Francis and Jan are incredibly kind people. I feel a little guilty as in the house there are 2 bedrooms and I have one of them. They assured me it was not an issue. I said no more.
Jan cooked up a great traditional meal with meat and ugali.
It was great to be in a house with a local family.
16-21/5/2015 Ongata Rongai
Francis and Jans house and the Magadi Road Guesthouse.
It was an hour or so trip into downtown Nairobi from here, depending on traffic. A small bus or minivan was used. Either way it was between 50 and 100 bob.
There were many things that needed to be done.
Most important was to get stamped into the country, this was done on the Monday at the immigration building in the city. Here there were no problems, just a copy of my visa and passport main page were needed. They even gave me an extra month here.
My visa for three months had commenced on issue in Addis almost two months ago.
New sunglasses were bought, my old ones had broken at the nose bridge. Maps and an old hard drive were sent home, to reduce weight.
New riding shorts were bought. Malanil for malaria prophylaxis was bought. They were 175 ks for 12 about $2.40/ tablet. The same product in Australia is $A 65/pack.
No prescription needed. With a visit to a doctor in Australia for the prescription, they could run out at $80/ pack, depending on how many needed.
I had to arrange to have my rear wheel rebuilt by a mechanic here, this was done. Lunch was also enjoyed in the Ya Ya centre with Simon, the Aussie guy who is coaching the Kenyan Riders.
Each night Jan cooked up a great traditional Kenyan meal. I pitched in for meat and other things. My old speaker has lost its hard wire capabilities, it was given to Ian, oher oldest son. He was wrapped.
Jan was telling me about a neighbour of hers, a woman in her thirties who visited another area of Kenya. On her return a week or two later, she got a headache and took some Panadol. It got worse. She had in fact contracted cerebral malaria in the other town and had not realised. By the time they diagnosed it, she was very ill and died three days later in hospital.
The cerebral malaria is the one to watch. Any odd health problems like headaches or loss of appetite or spewing and any symptoms resembling the flu need to be addressed. It is only a simple blood test that will indicate the presence of parasites that have breed in the liver then have released the new parasites into the red blood cells.
The three of us, Ben, Callum and myself are going to take prophylaxis medication, Malanil which is the same as Malarone.
She also went onto to say that a lot of men who seek affairs outside their married life often introduce AIDs into their families.
This wait here in Ongata is because my two sons Ben and Callum fly in with their bicycles on the 22nd May. It has been since August last year we were together. We are going to do the ride to Cape Town together over the next six months.
It is hard to believe they are going to be here. It will be something incredibly special riding together here in Africa.
Ongata Rongai is a great place, it is close to the city and has everything at reasonable prices. If you want to go to upmarket shopping centre, Galleria Karen is only 20 minutes away in a bus on the way to the city.
Here things are just as inflated as anywhere in the world. As most retailers are working a few days just to pay their rent.
In Ongata Ian took me to a market where they sell, second hand clothes and shoes from the states, here I bought shorts for 150 bob, they were authentic brand sports pants hardly worn.
Nairobi had adevasting couple of days of rain a week ago. Luckily due to that deluge it has been mostly fine since I have been here. All the roads are lined with mud and the side roads are just dirt. S soon as it rains they turn into a muddy mess.
Though in the sun they dry out incredibly quick.
There are puddles everywhere, perfect mossy breeding grounds. However Jan said malaria is not to common here in town .
My stay with them for 5 days was so relaxing and enjoyable just being with a normal family here in Nairobi. I am almost the only mzungu in Ongata, people are getting used to my presence.
Kenyan Riders Camp
Well my time here was a mixture of pleasure and pain. Arrival was with food poisoning and then two days in, kidney stones saw me spend a morning in the Iten hospital due to excruciating pain.
This pain continued for two days. I was so lucky that some Endone, an opiate painkiller is carried. This helped at night when the kidney stone was moving around.
My stay here was like being in a safe harbour in a storm. Everyone here was so kind and helpful to me.
Naomi cooked each lunchtime and dinner. Nick and I shared a unit together in the complex.
His other housemate Simon was away with some cyclists for a few days.
An effort was made one night, to cook everyone dinner, I only got as far as completing the preparation, pain set in before it could be cooked, I was on the bed writhing in pain. Having had kidney stones before, the pain although strong could be tolerated with many affirmations helping.
Nick ended up cooking dinner.
The staff at the Iten hospital were great given the basic facilities they worked in .One nurse could not find a vein for the stent in either hand, even after 4 tries, my poor old hands were stinging .A doctor finally lodged it in my elbow joint. They told me they treat alot of mums and babies with AIDS here. In that respect my eye was always on where the various needles were coming from, all thankfully came from unopened packets.
I was put on a drip and given a shot of painkiller.
They also gave me a MRI to check it was not appendicitis. During this scan, a cyst was found on one of my kidneys. It was a non malignant, water cyst. They told me they are quite normal and there was no need for concern. Mayo clinic net info verified this.
Iten is on the edge of the escarpment overlooking the Rift Valley. The view just one kilometre west of our housing was spectacular to say the least.
I took my bike to Nixon the team mechanic, he stripped down the headset and found it rusty and very dirty. The sealed bearings were still in good condition.
The headset has been not quite tight for some time. With all the dirt and rust found it can be understood why.
He also tuned the gears. Each day whilst in town there were groups of runners training.
An evening was spent watching Barcelona beat the German team. Messi as usual was brilliant in scoring two goals.
I was so lucky to be in such good company here in Iten being not so well. My deep thanks goes to Nick, Ciuron, Scott, Zane, Nellie, Naomi and Simon for their kindness and hospitality, thanks to you all.
10/5/2015 Iten to Burnt Forest
D80 (7 around Iten), T4.37, Av17.32, 40,546, 55516
Cool with storm clouds and a downpour at 1400hrs.
After having not had the kidney pain for a day and a night and feeling a lot better, it was decided to leave and just ride the short distance to Eldoret.
The ride was a short 25 odd km, mostly downhill. In Eldoret, directions were asked, these bypassed the town. The riding was still easy.
There were people on the side of the road selling chooks for 500 bob alive.
Since being in Kenya, there has been a constant presence of evangelical churches, everything from 7th dayers to wayward gospel churches and other organizations.
Whilst, as long as they don’t bother me it is ok. However, a two page article in the Daily Nation noted that these organizations are taking and asking for too much money from already poor people. They want a contribution for the service, then want more for construction or some other cause. Over and above all this, they are into tithing.
Many of these churches, often in tin sheds have loudspeakers going all day and night, preaching the word.
It is a total invasion of ones space.
The Mosques and Orthodox Christian churches in Ethiopia, Sudan and Egypt did the same. These are established religions and are a genuine part of life in these countries, and have been so for ages.
These Johnny come lately churches are behind the facade; money making organisations, where a charismatic preacher is doing his best to get people excited and in some cases scared. Both states of mind can lead people into giving money.
Often these entrepreneurs are living in big homes and drive expensive cars, whilst their flock is struggling but always asked to contribute.
These organisations tend to rob people of their traditions as well.
I have seen this in Nicaragua and in the Louisiade Archipelago south of Papua New Guinea.
Along with colonialism, this kind of exploitation has been going on since new worlds were discovered.
People with strong cultures regardless of their wealth, in my observations seem to have little time for these organisations in their lives. Most of Peru for example.
After heading south for some time, the road was getting very busy with semis carting full and empty containers. This was odd as the road I was meaning to take was a back road. Everyone asked said this was the way to Kaptagat.
Later in the day on checking my compass I was heading south not SW.
Asking people who knew, it was found I was on the main road south to Nakuru.
It was no problem, except that Kaptagat would not be visited.
At 1500, a looming front was ahead down the road. On pulling into a gas station there were plenty of other people watching the oncoming storm. I donned my raincoat and new over pants and headed off.
Down it came. It was torrential, there was at least a uniform 25mm of water on the shoulder of the road. It was cold rain, my altitude was around 2000m.
Burnt Forest, a village with hotels was 7km away. Occasionally I was getting a good splashing from trucks, they could not move aside with oncoming traffic.
The main road had a good shoulder, so my safety was never compromised.
Arriving in Burnt Forest wet through except for my legs. A ground level hotel was found. It was so good to be under a roof. My panniers leaked again. The plastic bags used with saved the day.
My Marmot Minimialist raincoat seems to have lost its waterproof qualities. It was wet inside and out. Consequently, my upper body and clothing were wet. Definitely not from sweat.
Ken, a timber buyer from Mombasa and I shared a tea in a local cafe and later went out for dinner. He regularly comes up here from the coast to buy pine and Eucalypt. He buys standing trees and mills it before hauling it back to Mombasa where he makes a good profit.
It was a cold evening, as usual I slept in my sleeping bag, a mosquito net was not necessary.
A guy was stoking a fire under a big steel tank full of water all night. My room had a strong smell of smoke about it .
11/5/2015 Burnt Forest to Eldama Ravine
D71, T4.27, Av16.06, max63 40,612, 5,587
Around 2200-2600m most of day, got to my hotel before a storm at 1730
Crossed the equator, now in the Southern Hemisphere.
Much of my riding gear was still wet in the morning even though I had hung it up in the room.
A great hot bucket shower was enjoyed with very hot water from the big urn, a shave was had also.
It was a brilliantly clear day, nice and crisp as usual after a tropical downpour. My clothes were hung out for a while in the hot equatorial sun, even at 0800 in the morning.
Breakfast of mendasi, coffee and scrambled eggs was enjoyed down the road. Getting there was an exercise in avoiding the sticky mud everywhere.
Incidentally, the hotel had no power the whole time I was there, a pole had fallen over at this end of the village, up the road was not affected.
I was on the road by 0830.
As soon as the village was out of view, the terrain became rolling hill country. I was continually climbing and descending but overall continually getting higher.
The good shoulder still prevailed, as did the numerous trucks. They were mostly very cautious about my presence.
There were some long climbs three or more km.
Nearing what appeared to be the top at 2600m, a minivan bus, Matatu, was pulled over. Ken was out on the road, he stopped me for a chat.
The sun was still not obstructed by any clouds. It was still cool when stopping for a time.
From here it was generally downhill for a change. The town of Equator, aptly named was 15km away. The countryside is now just a lush green, people are growing potatoes, cabbages and maize of course for ugali.
Descending a large hill in the slipstream of a truck, the official sign saying you have entered the southern hemisphere was missed. In the town of Equator they said it was back up the hill some. There was no way, a ride back up was going to be made.
Concentrating, coming down the hill at 60 plus km/hr had seen me miss it.
From here, it was some 7km to the Eldama Ravine turnoff. Views of the Rift Valley were now ahead.
In Equator, some capsicum, tomatoes and onions were bought along with six slices of bread, the woman kindly opened a sliced loaf to give me what was needed.
A few km from here at some deserted roadside stalls, great sandwiches were enjoyed, while some gear that got wet yesterday was put out to dry in the hot sun.
Soon coming to the turnoff to Eldama, people were selling produce near the intersection. Some Tree Tomatoes were bought, having not eaten them for years, one was tried before the whole bag was bought.
They did not present well but inside their sweetness was fantastic, no hesitation was made in buying the rest.
Down the hill at the left hand turn the matatu guys told me it was 17km into Eldama Ravine. It was beautiful rural riding away from the trucks. Mostly downhill as well. A stop was made, half way in to enjoy the Tree Tomatoes.
Once in town, a driver had told me to go to Taidies because it was cheap, it was out of town down a hill. On arrival, the reception told me it was 1500 bob a night. No good to me. Riding back up the hill, and into town, the Venus cafe and hotel was looked at. It was perfect and had a suicide hot shower, how good it was to have two hot showers in one day. One was even at the turn of a tap.
Wandering around town, a printing shop with heavy weight A4 paper was found. They printed up some more basic cards for me.
These small towns offer the best easily found facilities all within walking distances and people are generally very honest with their prices. I had made it here without getting caught in a storm. It was great to be under a roof before the inevitable cloud build up bought the afternoon storm. Sure enough just on dark the skies darkened and down it came in buckets. There was lightening, thunder and surface water almost getting into my room.
Within one hour, it was all over.
Dinner was enjoyed at the Venus restaurant. As were some great chips soon after my shower.
12/5/2015 Eldama Ravine to Nakuru
D61, T3.2, Av18.23, max58 40,612, 5,648
Overcast, light shower, otherwise dry and warm in the valley
It had rained heavily into the night. The morning was overcast and things were damp. Though in this climate it is a constant wetting drying process over and over again during the wet seasons.
If the days are planned with some regard to the rain pattern you can sneak around keeping dry. Mornings are best, you need to be close to your destination by 1400 at the latest.
Away about 0830, the riding was easy. It was a slow descent all the way into the Rift Valley below. It was still overcast, the clouds were high and rain was not threatening, however one low cloud passed over that contained a few spots. No Matatus heading towards me were wet so there was no need to done wet weather gear. The temperature was getting warmer all the time.
The road was taking me down from 2600m into the valley.
There were small villages most of the way down.
Again the names were great, one was called Middle World.
Some delicious honey was bought at a roadside stall in Muserechi. This was later enjoyed on Chapati in another tiny village, Molo River.
Along most of the way were people who owned a few cows tending them as they fed along the roadside.
The riding continued to be gently downhill.
Coming to the right hand turn to Nakuru after some 34km, the road began to gently climb.
It was still great riding, traffic was light and most drivers were cautious. It was now getting very hot, a reminder of my latitude.
The most common vehicles on the road were Matatus, Neelams and motos.
Once the slow ascent was made, it was then gently down into Nakuru.
On arrival, I asked people for the directions to a cheap hotel, for me 300 to 500 bob.
Down three streets from the big mall saw me book a room at the Indica hotel.
Here washing was done. A walk was then taken to this big western mall.
Inside was a supermarket come everything else of huge proportions. One could even argue the range was better than in Aussie.
I am trying to get what I need in these smaller towns so I don’t have to go hunting all over Nairobi.
Once done, a great meal was enjoyed on the corner near the hotel.
13/5/2015 Nakuru to Longonot, Eldama Hotel
D94, T5.3, Av16.94, max54 40,772, 5,742
Overcast, rained from 1630 to 1800
The restaurant next door was frequented again with my bottle of honey which is great on fresh chapatti. The road from Nakuru was incredibly busy with trucks. There was a good shoulder so it was no problem.
This was the main highway so hills were gentle. Many people were seen riding bicycles near the villages. People even this close to the city were still tending goats and cattle on the roadside.
There were small towns most of the way. My panniers are letting in some water so a stop was made to coat the bottom of them with the glue bought in Iten. The humidity was back in full force again though there was cool air about so with momentum it was not to uncomfortable.
After stopping for lunch in Gil Gil, the woman tried to charge me 40sh for a small bottle of coke. I gave her an earful about what I normally pay and she dropped the price back to 30 bob.
There was a reasonable climb on from the town, once at the top I felt very dizzy and beside myself. It was an odd sensation and not very nice. I soon recovered but for a while there, it was a bit concerning.
Another stop was made to put more glue on the panniers, a young boy on a bicycle came alongside and commenced riding with me when I was leaving. He was talking Swahili and a little English but knew enough to finally ask for money after a couple of km.
“Me giving you money!! No way” I said, he soon departed.
Further on there were fenced areas, here antelope and Zebras were seen grazing in the landscape beyond.
At times, they were very close to the road. All animals in many respects today are fenced in, some just live in bigger paddocks, such is mans advance across landscapes of the world.
A fresh pineapple was enjoyed on the way off the highway.
At Naivasha, lunch was had in town, none of this elusive glue could be found in any hardware shops, of which there are dozens in every town. After fake mobile phone shops they are the greatest in number.
From here I took route C88 south, though it is of the highway it was busy with trucks, the shoulder was not as good as the highway.
Mt Longonot could be seen the whole way, on my right. There was a small patch of snow on it highest ridge.
Up ahead what looked like a couple of other touring cyclist could be seen. On getting closer, it was. They were a Dutch couple who were backpacking in Uganda and decided to by bikes and continue that way. Susanah and Marco were a hardcase couple.
They both had dreadlocks and appeared rather unprepared for cycling. Their bikes were old second hand mountain bikes and they just had their backpackes tied onto the back of their bikes.
They both smoked and chewed chat. At the end of the day you don’t need all thehigh tech gear.
Putting this aside we got on well and enjoyed each others company and rode on together. By now it was beginning to rain. We had 15km to get to Longonot. The road was flat but it was getting dark and we were all getting wet.
I put my rear tail light on just for safety.
We finally got into Longonot at 1630 very wet and myself very worn out.
Luckily, after asking we pulled into the Eldarma Hotel and got great rooms with hot showers for 300sh. I got cleaned up and ate across the road.
The town was just a big truck stop. Trucks lined the street on both sides.
It was nice to sleep between sheets feeling fresh and clean.
14/5/2015 Longonot to Kikuyu
D56,
Overcast, rained from 1630 to 1800
On getting up things were still wet outside. We headed across the road for breakfast, again with my bottle of honey to put on the mendasis we bought.
Marco and Susannah left before me. I was a bit slow packing. We had arranged to meet in an hour or two.
The skies soon cleared. It was a great 15km gentle downhill ride to Maai Maihu.
This was another trucking town. It was at the foot of a 16km climb. Though it was the back road it was incredibly busy just with trucks and the odd passenger vehicle.
The rain was still at bay. Some 5km into the climb, the others were waiting on the roadside for me. We all had a rest for a while.
The climbing was not to steep but just kept going. Marco had seen a troop of Baboons on the road.
The shoulder was mostly nonexistent, luckily most vehicles were moving very slowly whether descending or ascending. Some trucks descending had smoke pouring off their rear wheels accompanied with the telltale smell of brake linings almost on fire. A stop was made to buy some pears from roadside sellers.
Nearing the top after levelling out some there were a number of roadside curio shops selling mainly animal skin products.
Putting these aside the view down into the Rift Valley on our right was absolutely spectacular.
The altitude was about 2400m. This road is marked on my map as a scenic route, What it doesn’t say is how many trucks use it.
Though busy we never really felt unsafe.
Once at the top a great descent began all the way to Kikuyu. The road surface could not be trusted so we were using our brakes heavily at times.
Traffic was now typical of being near a large city, consistent, smelly, and noisy.
Stopping near the turn off to Kikuyu, nature gave me a big calling, luckily there was some dirt piles nearby. I’m getting used to diarrhoea on and off now. It does not impede my progress. A roll of toilet paper is always carried in my bar bag for such emergencies.
In town we finally found a comfortable hotel At 100sh/night, the Mara.
We had a great hot shower each, before going out for dinner I had my haircut. A quick going over with a number 4 for 100 bob.
We headed out for dinner, both Susannah and Marco were vegetarians so we had a great meal of beans and ugali.
We then went onto a bar and had a humorous night till midnight, a late but great night.
15/5/2015 Kikuyu to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi
D50, T3.1, Av15.59, max51 40,822, 5,792
Fine all day
It had been a comfortable night’s sleep in sheets for a change. A walk was made to the hardware shop in an effort to find this great Basco Perma Bond glue. They too had none of the product. Back at the hotel, Marco and Susanna were still getting ready. We were in no hurry. Once they were up we tuned their rear derallieur. I have some tuition moves off the net. We followed these and Susanna took her bike for a ride. It worked perfectly. We were all very happy about this.
Across the road was a little cafe for locals. A great breakfast of beans and mendasi was enjoyed. Once on the road it was about avoiding the congested traffic. It was pretty much urbanised all the way.
The other road users were courteous towards us, we had no problems riding the often rough and littered shoulders.
Following the maps with me app on my phone we made it to the main intersection in Karen in a couple of hours. Karen is one of the more exclusive suburbs in Nairobi. Here people have large homes on quarter acre properties. Largely ex pats and other foreigners.
Here at the roundabout. We were going our different ways, they were heading south to Tanzania and I was continuing on Nairobi national Park to my Warmshowers hosts at Ongata Rongai.
It had been great to have been in their company for a few days, we all had a great time.
Stops were made at another couple of hardware shops looking for the glue. I have carried this type of glue for the last couple of years. It comes in amazingly handy for almost anything that breaks or leaks. My panniers have small holes in them and the glue keeps water out. It even sealed my pot. Also great for shoe repairs.
At another intersection was a huge Galleria shopping centre. I pulled in here and the security guys kept an eye on my bike. Security is very strict at these places. Cars are searched and people scanned before entering the complex. Al Shabaab really has the Kenyans on full alert. The college they attacked is now permanently closed which is sad because that is precisely one result they wanted.
Once inside, the large Nakumatt store was checked out. The shops have almost exactly the same products and selection as back in Australia.
The formula is the same, minimal service, it is just about selling product.
There was a bike shop in here. My computer is almost worn out a rubber band is now needed to hold it in its mount, while repairing the headset in Iten we accidently broke the wiring. It still works but maybe for not to long. The shop had one at a heavily inflated price.
Most people who want high tech gear bring it in when they return to their respective countries.
It was not purchased.
The road from here to me around the southern edge of Nairobi National Park.
Here most animalsreside and some of the predators right on the edge of the city.
Once in Ongata, a busy thriving main road with markets and a myriad of shops and people on the roadside.
At the proposed meeting place, I asked a girl where the Tuskys supermarket was. Unbelievably, it was the daughter of Francis my Warmshowers host.
Out of all the thousands of people wandering around I ask her where the meeting place was.
I got some chicken at the supermarket and Faith and I walked back to her parents house. She is studying computers at university and was on her way home.
Once there after walking along a dirt road littered with puddles of brown water, she introduced me to her family.
Their flat was in a building of four. Their family was 5 children strong. They all get up early and head to school.
Francis and Jan are incredibly kind people. I feel a little guilty as in the house there are 2 bedrooms and I have one of them. They assured me it was not an issue. I said no more.
Jan cooked up a great traditional meal with meat and ugali.
It was great to be in a house with a local family.
16-21/5/2015 Ongata Rongai
Francis and Jans house and the Magadi Road Guesthouse.
It was an hour or so trip into downtown Nairobi from here, depending on traffic. A small bus or minivan was used. Either way it was between 50 and 100 bob.
There were many things that needed to be done.
Most important was to get stamped into the country, this was done on the Monday at the immigration building in the city. Here there were no problems, just a copy of my visa and passport main page were needed. They even gave me an extra month here.
My visa for three months had commenced on issue in Addis almost two months ago.
New sunglasses were bought, my old ones had broken at the nose bridge. Maps and an old hard drive were sent home, to reduce weight.
New riding shorts were bought. Malanil for malaria prophylaxis was bought. They were 175 ks for 12 about $2.40/ tablet. The same product in Australia is $A 65/pack.
No prescription needed. With a visit to a doctor in Australia for the prescription, they could run out at $80/ pack, depending on how many needed.
I had to arrange to have my rear wheel rebuilt by a mechanic here, this was done. Lunch was also enjoyed in the Ya Ya centre with Simon, the Aussie guy who is coaching the Kenyan Riders.
Each night Jan cooked up a great traditional Kenyan meal. I pitched in for meat and other things. My old speaker has lost its hard wire capabilities, it was given to Ian, oher oldest son. He was wrapped.
Jan was telling me about a neighbour of hers, a woman in her thirties who visited another area of Kenya. On her return a week or two later, she got a headache and took some Panadol. It got worse. She had in fact contracted cerebral malaria in the other town and had not realised. By the time they diagnosed it, she was very ill and died three days later in hospital.
The cerebral malaria is the one to watch. Any odd health problems like headaches or loss of appetite or spewing and any symptoms resembling the flu need to be addressed. It is only a simple blood test that will indicate the presence of parasites that have breed in the liver then have released the new parasites into the red blood cells.
The three of us, Ben, Callum and myself are going to take prophylaxis medication, Malanil which is the same as Malarone.
She also went onto to say that a lot of men who seek affairs outside their married life often introduce AIDs into their families.
This wait here in Ongata is because my two sons Ben and Callum fly in with their bicycles on the 22nd May. It has been since August last year we were together. We are going to do the ride to Cape Town together over the next six months.
It is hard to believe they are going to be here. It will be something incredibly special riding together here in Africa.
Ongata Rongai is a great place, it is close to the city and has everything at reasonable prices. If you want to go to upmarket shopping centre, Galleria Karen is only 20 minutes away in a bus on the way to the city.
Here things are just as inflated as anywhere in the world. As most retailers are working a few days just to pay their rent.
In Ongata Ian took me to a market where they sell, second hand clothes and shoes from the states, here I bought shorts for 150 bob, they were authentic brand sports pants hardly worn.
Nairobi had adevasting couple of days of rain a week ago. Luckily due to that deluge it has been mostly fine since I have been here. All the roads are lined with mud and the side roads are just dirt. S soon as it rains they turn into a muddy mess.
Though in the sun they dry out incredibly quick.
There are puddles everywhere, perfect mossy breeding grounds. However Jan said malaria is not to common here in town .
My stay with them for 5 days was so relaxing and enjoyable just being with a normal family here in Nairobi. I am almost the only mzungu in Ongata, people are getting used to my presence.
First Glimpse of the fauna.
Susannah and Marco, great company for a couple of days.
My night to cook, an Asian stir fry, kept everyone happy.
Ongata Rongai, donkeys, goats, people and rubbish everywhere but a vibrant community of friendly helpful people. You can get all you want here.
Jan and Francis' daughter Miley, such a cutie and a real cuddlebug. It is not hard to see why people fall in love with the African children.
Dropping down from Eldama Ravine into the rift valley
Looking back up to Eldama Ravine from the Rift Valley floor.
Ken, the timber buyer from Mombasa, at our hot water supply in the hotel at Burnt Forest, a guy was stoking the fire all night.
Some of the crew at the Kenyan Riders camp. Zane Robertson a NZ commonwealth bronze medalist distance runner on the right. Training here for the world athletic comp and Brazil Olympics.
great company for a week.
Arriving in Nakuru.
Typical food, Ugali, cabbage and goat meat. I have become quite a fan of this meat, it is sweet and very tender.
Pulling in for a hip flask full of the famous Rift Valley honey. Just great on Chapati
Fresh is best, 500 bob each, main road to Nakuru. About $AU7.00. Note they are tied together, they are worth nothing flush with the asphalt!!
Even on the main road people were still tending their animals as they fed.
Pulling in late to Longonot, wet but happy to find a guest house in short time.
No forgetting the price of the room, Longonot
These "wayward churches" are everywhere. Interestingly Faith, where I am staying in Ongata said, "though she is a Christian, I read the bible at home, as many of these churches are corrupt". Not the first time I have heard someone say that here.
The word from the shed was very loud coming from the speaker under the eave.