“A man is a success, if he gets up in the morning and goes to bed at night and in between, does what he wants to do”
Bob Dylan
That goes for Jacaré also !
17/7/2014 Confresa to Vila Rica, MT
D104, Av17, T7, 30,340 4,817
Slightly overcast but still 33 degrees
30km gravel
Being a bit reluctant to leave Confresa, still with this sore on my bum not 100% healed, last night a couple of large bandages were bought. It is healing as fast as it can, my blood is back in good shape, as a good dry scab has formed.
My time in Confresa was so relaxing.
A normal day would be commence enjoying the complimentary breakfast. Then reading the various newspapers on my phone.
Then wander into town to get some fruit for lunch.
The afternoon involved a couple of coffees, a sleep and at about 1900 a walk would be taken into town just to sit at an ice creamery and enjoy 2 large bowls of great flavoured ice cream and watch the traffic go by.
When I am not riding there is absolutely no guilt felt doing nothing. Infact, I try to stay out of the sun.
It is a good time really rest up. These hot days now are very enduring. The owner did have me to his house one day for a home cooked lunch.
With an early brekky, my wheels were turning by 0745.
My bum felt ok with the bandage attached.
The day was not overly hot early on. The heat here really kicks in about 1400 hrs, you can feel the sun burning and this is winter.
The road was smooth and just a series of small climbs and run down again.
With these conditions, it is easy to do 100km in a day.
Some people stopped me to take some photos with their children. They kindly topped me up with icy water.
Some 70km into the trip, the gravel commenced. It was in much better condition than the surface north of Agua Boa. Also not as dusty. The truck traffic has really decreased which is good news.
The gravel was an easy ride, soon the approaches to Vila Rica were seen.
You can always tell if a town is about, by the presence of communications towers .
Once in town a good cheap hotel was found, a cold shower taken, my clothes worn for the day were washed.
A trip was made into town for more bandages.
Off course, an ice-cream was enjoyed. The prices here are so reasonable. Four scoops of any flavours in a tall glass coats about $1.50.
They are popular meeting places in the relative coolness of the evening.
A huge buffet meal was eaten whilst using their wifi.
It was a shock to read about that Malaysian Airways plane being shot down.
The people who own the hotel told me about these electric fish in the water ways and lagoons here. They said not to swim in any water as they can kill you with their electric current.
It was good info. Though the only places I have been using the water it has been very clear. They are called Pirake Electrico.
There is more gravel road from here to the state line of Pará, some 40km north .
By the time I enter Pará tomorrow about 1350km have been ridden from south to north in Mato Grosso.
18/7/2014 Vila Rica, MT to Vila Mandi,PA
D72, T7, Av17.19, Max43, 30,413 4,889
Slightly cloudy, still and 30+
15km gravel
Well, last night, a huge buffet meal was enjoyed, having not eaten all day. Simply because hunger never visited me.
To put it bluntly, alot was eaten.
Before dinner, a long conversation was enjoyed with a good friend back home. It was nice to catch up.
My room was a prison cell like affair, very small, with no windows. Without the pedestal fan it would have been impossible to sleep in the claustrophobic heat.
Sleep came very quick.
In the morning things were not to good from my body point of view. Awake early, there was no motivation to get up. I felt like shit. It was a kind of nauseas blotted feeling.
Feeling this way, I did not rise from the bed till 0830, even then reluctantly. The last thing felt like doing was riding a fully loaded touring bike over gravel in the relentless heat.
Meandering out into the patio area, the owners were about.
My appetite was zero.
My understanding of the predicament was beginning to come to light.
The meal last night was a buffet, much of the meat eaten had been heavily impregnated with oil. Lots had been eaten.
My body, was infact glugged up with oil. I felt like going to the toilet and even a spew, neither were possible.
This has happened once or twice before. Especially being so hungry, it is like luxury uptake in plants. So much was eaten in a short time, all of the food, aside from the salads were prepared in oil.
Consideration had been made to stay here, had the room been a little better, this would have been done.
I also knew that the best way to purge this oil in my body was to burn it out with exertion. Reluctantly and very lethargically the bike was loaded in the already warming day at 0930.
Once loaded I got water from the fridge. This didn’t help matters one bit. It had that flavour of combined fridge odours and residue flavours from the product previously in the PET bottles. At least it was cold.
Saying goodbye, a weary old body on a bike meandered off down the road, up ahead were road works.
It was a bit of an obstacle course. At least my mind was kept off my nauseas state.
This went on for 15km. The surface was smooth though undulating, it was not to bad on the bum. Last night I had also bought gauze and tap to protect the now diminishing wound.
The scenery now is more broken bush and some small hills about. There are huge round boulders in the paddocks and some large anthills.
Thinking about the boulders, geology is not my forte, though I think that water is the only force that can make rocks round and smooth. Having considered this. There must have been some huge rivers here millions of years ago.
Soon the asphalt commenced, what a relief. Coming upon a bridge, a truck was parked at my approach, the driver was on the bridge looking into the muddy waters.
There was a Jacaré swimming leisurely at the surface, with that always looking for an opportunity casualness they possess.
We both hung around fascinated by his presence.
He soon got bored of us and swam up stream, we also went our separate ways.
The driver told me it was 5km to the state line with Pará.
My feeling of bloatedness, somewhat better, was still rendering me far from normal.
Once at the inspection point at the border. I pulled in and immediately headed to the cold water dispenser, the fresh filtered water was eagerly poured down my throat.
Sitting on a bench alongside the reception window, conversation was made with truck drivers as they did their paperwork after having walked across the dusty parking area infront of the building.
Chatting with the guys in charge of the formalities, they said come out the back. I wheeled the bike around. It was great to have a seat in the shade of the building. The cleaning lady bought a big plate of food out for me. The sight of it nearly made me sick, thats how I felt.
They could not understand why I did not want to eat it. It was explained and motioned that my stomach was not good.
We sat and talked for a bit. By now the heat of the day had kicked in. Slowly but surely my condition was worsening.
I could not ride on in this heat. I asked if they had somewhere I could lie down. They got a mattress from inside and placed it on the floor in a small room on the side of the building. Two Ibuprofen were taken, a pillow fashioned with some clothes.
It was so good to be lying down.. Very soon sleep came. Two hours later, upon waking. I actually felt a 100% better.
My body just needed more time to process this huge amount of oil ingested.
I slowly got packed. The heat of the day had subsided.
They told me it was 31km to Vila Mandi, all asphalt and flat. They also told me they had never seen another cyclist pass here.
A motel would be booked here, arrival based on the days average would be about 1730.
It was so good to have that lightness of body again, previously it had felt like all my orifices had been blocked for a few days.
Riding was again a pleasure in the coolness of the afternoon. The terrain was openly vegetated with contrasting almost white cattle grazing amongst the greenery.
Armadillos are often seen scratching about on the side of the road. The remains of many were also seen baked in the sun in the same place.
Arriving in Vila Mandi, the Hotel Trans America was booked. They had huge open sunlight rooms. It was great. Still not feeling hungry, it was nice to shower and just lie on the bed.
In hindsight, it had been a few weeks of full on activity. My body and mind were saying it is time to just chill. Time to just shut everything mentally and physically down.
Time just to stare out the window with nothing coming to mind.
I love this state of mind, it is like floating in space, a worn out body serves to enhance it.
Soup was cooked in the room and a couple of chilled apples and pears were bought at the local store. This town is just a main street on Ruta158.
Before going to bed, the pedestal fan on the small table was moved far enough away from my bed so to create just the gentlest of breezes.
It felt so good to be clean shaven, and having had a lovely hot shower. My hair was shampooed and conditioned, this too added to my relaxed state.
More importantly, it felt serene to be occupying a body nearly back in perfect working order!
The days now are incredibly hot. Often there is adrenalin running in my body as I ride. This has to be watched, as it creates an altered state of well being.
When it stops flowing, the real state of my body is revealed.
Often, one of exhaustion. This state is not unlike the feelings after a hard days snow skiing, it is an addictive place to be, but has to be followed by good rest and an easy mind.
Wandering around town in Vila Rica the other night, stepping off some high kerbs, I almost fell to the ground, such was the state of my thigh muscles. They were struggling to support my upper body weight .
Without adrenalin, this sensation for me is common.
The weakness makes me laugh as I struggle to stop myself from falling to the ground. It is an odd sensation but at the same time pleasantly rewarding.
Maybe you find that hard to understand. Putting the circumstance into words is like the feeling itself . Any description is as fleeting as the sensation.
19/7/2-14 Vila Mandi to 25km past Santana Do Araguaia (Hotel Trans Amreica)
D106, T8, av19.8, Max 45, 30519, 4995
Hot, slight head wind
I woke up feeling like a million dollars, had a large, early, complimentary breakfast and was on the road by 0700.
Early morning and before dark are such pleasant times to ride. There is a coolness in the air in the morning and interesting light come the afternoon. At these times, my music is not playing, it is the time to see animals and hear things as I ride. Many times, there is a sound of movement in the long roadside grass, generally it is always Armadillos. Possibly foraging for grain that has come off trucks.
Ranchers are often moving stock at these times. Birds are also at their most vocal in the mornings and before dark.
Riding again was a lovely mix of gentle terrain. It felt great to be back in perfect working order, the sore bum was almost sorted out, so, all was good.
The days now are all reaching the early 30’s. Between 1300 and 1430 it is so damn hot. I am trying to stop between these times.
As it happened, today at 1200 saw me arrive in Santana Do Araguaia with 80km on the odometer.
It was a smallish town. Here a couple of chocolate thick shakes were enjoyed.
The owner of a hotel in the main street let me use his wifi for an hour. Leaving here chilled water was loaded. The owner was given R5.
With water for the night and happy just to do another 20km or more.
Twenty odd km down the road, a new fence line was being installed. Running right angles to the road, was a cleared track in the forest. This was entered, when no vehicles were approaching.
A few hundred metres in here, a gap was found where the bike could be wheeled into the bush.
It was perfect, away from traffic allowing the headlight to be used at will.
I had time to set my hammock up and get used to its adjustments.
Further north, this will be my only accommodation. There are too many ants on the ground for a tent .
Within 15 minutes of having put my gear on the ground, the they turned up in huge numbers. There were brown ones, black ones, some were in a hurry, others were more slow moving, others were bull ant size but all had hit the jackpot when it came to things worthy of exploration. My sandals were a favourite, they were covered in medium size characters, obviously attracted by the sweat that had impregnated them all day.
Seeing all this activity, I was so relieved to know my night would be spent off the ground.
Once the hammock was set up and tested a few times, my sleeping bag was placed within and the pillowslip filled with clothes as usual.
Dinner was an adhoc offering. The pasta previously bought was unknowingly the egg type. Once boiled it is like glue. I tossed this and ended up just having canned peas and soup.
I am not used to sleeping on my back, so the hammock is going to take some getting used to. Though you can sleep on your side, the spine is at an odd angle, not good.
My panniers and other things were closed and put on the ground by the hammock, everything else was hung in a small tree.
The size 12 Opinel knife is used at almost all campsites to trim away bushes and branches. Its usefulness cannot be overstated.
Once in the hammock, getting to sleep was tricky. There were monkeys calling in the distance and the new sleeping position had its difficulties. The only other sounds in the bush were leaves as they fell to the ground. That is how quiet the place was. Occasionally other birds would let out a call of no concern.
With the incorporated insect screen, it is quite hot inside. It was unzipped just enough to allow me to breath the outside air, it made a big difference .
The other day, talking to a friend in NZ, he informed me he was going to take similar time out for a year or more.
Learning, from my time doing this. The one most important piece of advice to give to anyone would be:
Get yourself set up, to completely minimise any responsibilities in your home.
By that, I mean have no one relying on you for anything, give no one a reason to contact you, for other than social reasons.
Believe me, the less time you spend thinking about what maybe happening at home, the more enjoyable are the experiences whilst travelling.
After all, you are doing this to be free of these restrictions that almost everyone puts up with.
I sometimes, almost start laughing to myself when realising that the last 10 minutes have been spent watching ants at work or just sitting still in a state of nowhere in particular.
The provision of no responsibilities elsewhere truly allows for such pleasures.
This of course is a slow process, as thoughts of home will follow for the first 6 months or more.
After years and years of this conditioning in our lives, it is quite normal. Once I broke through this barrier, the pleasures derived from this existence are euphoric to say the least.
Each day brings these little pleasures.
Friends have said to me on asking “what’s happening?” and they reply, “same shit different day”. What they are really saying is “I put up with it, because really, I am scared to change or do anything about it”.
It is such a pleasure to see people who are enthusiastic about their lives, regardless of what they’re doing.
20/7/2014 Bush camp to bar 70km sth Redencao
D100, T8, Av19.8, Max45 30619, 5095
Hot
Given the conditions, a good nights sleep had been enjoyed. I think sleep came about 2300 and I awoke at 0530, for me that is plenty. The only way I am able to get to sleep is to transport my mind away from the surroundings.
Doing this successfully it is sometimes like you are in the comfort of a building.
Listening for every sound is the problem as all my senses become hyper sensitive, it is impossible to sleep.
Macaque monkeys were intermittently calling from another part of the bush. Their noise is not unlike Howler Monkeys but nowhere as loud.
Overnight industrious termites had built shelter tubes in my sandals and on my panniers that had been left on the ground. They lay down small particles of dirt mixed with their saliva.
Almost all the gear that was oon the ground is covered in these foundations for their shelter tubes.
Everything hanging in trees was fine. Sleeping in my tent is now not a proposition when camped in the forest. It would be best described as a dry rainforest, there were large vines, palms and something of an understory. The canopy was still largely open.
There was light reaching the floor. Here heliocanths were growing among other plants. Some grasses had clinging seeds, they were so well attached to the hairs on my legs that their removal also took the.hairs from my legs.
There is an opportunity for natural hair removal using these affectionate seeds.
Whilst having breakfast, a whirling noise was heard, looking up here was the tiniest of deep blue Hummingbirds hovering a metre from me just having an inquiring look at the visitor. As I gave him my attention, he soon disappeared at a great speed as they do.
Breakfast was tuna and cut up onion, porridge and coffee.
Once one the road, the scenery really started to get exciting, there was lots of bush about and hill country clad in heavy forest. There was even some thunderous clouds in the sky.
The natural vegetation was creating a small microclimate.
A truck driver gave me water. He also told me there was a place to buy drinks some 20km on. The riding was still a pleasure with a rolling terrain.
Infact, for the last 5000km the roads have gone from dead flat in UR and PY, small ranges in Missiones, AR to this riding here in BR, which from a terrain point of view is about as good as it gets. Terrain, that is a mix of gentle climbs and an easy freewheeling back down into the next catchment. It is so much more enjoyable than flat land, as effort is not required all the time.
Arriving at the rustic building where the bar was, pulling in, I was greeted by a bunch of guys who had been camping and fishing. They were travelling on motos.
Drinks were enjoyed, 3 cans of Coke that is and lots of chilled water.
The owner gave me a taste of this Rum 51 that is as cheap as dirt, plonk would best describe it. The supermarkets sell it for $6 for a large bottle.
Soon the town of Codespar was reached, A restaurant was found that had a buffet. This time, caution was used when selecting the meats.
A bunch of guys were hanging about. They came and joined me .
Mauricio, a great young guy who could speak Spanish was filling mme in on the animals found in the bush here and road conditions. He was of Italian extraction and had a grandmother in Australia.
They were staying in town whilst they were asphalting some of the main street. On going to pay for the meal, the woman told me Mauricio had payed. I protested greatly. The result was sincerely thanking him.
Anyway, sometime later, I bought his mates a large bottle of coke to share.
Their wages are so much lower than people doing the same work in Australia, he did tell me. I can’t remember so don’t quote me but it was either $250 a week or 125, either way it is very little when one takes in the price of basic items needed to live here.
Given this, it was a great gesture of him to pay for my meal, he was one of those guys you instantly like, his co workers could be seen to feel the same way. We had some good laughs.
My stay in town was for an hour or more, Mauricio took me to his hotel where the wifi was used.
Leaving town, as approaching a bridge, a glance down the river revealed dozens of people picnicking and swimming. There were a few trucks from the Soya Express pulled over randomly on the narrow road.
Riding down the track, the bike was parked, I had a chat with a few people .
From here, my pockets were checked for items and it was fully clothed into the cooling waters of the grey coloured water. It felt so damn good.
Being Sunday it was quite an occasion down here, people were BBQ’ing, fishing, drinking and dancing to rhythmic Brazilian music. Across the river some girls were putting on a show of their dancing.
It was amazing the flow of their hips, they were having a great time.
Speaking with some of the truck drivers, they said they were on their way to Sao Paulo with grain. They introduced me to some Brasilieras. They were young guys, I think they were here for more than just a swim and a few beers.
It was a great insight into life here in central BR. Motos are a very important form of transport here. Most bikes are Hondas, all of 150cc. Helmets appear to be mandatory though not worn by all. Once again, it is nothing to see a young family of 4 on a bike in towns.
Once on my way, some 15km down the road, my energy levels just disappeared, I had hit a wall big time.
This has not happened for weeks. Coming across a little bus shelter I pulled in and hurriedly opened up a very warm can of sardines and ate them with crackers ,some Nutella was also put on further crackers. An old guy on a bike pulled up, another drifter kind of cyclist, he had almost no gear.
Almost all Fazenda entrances now have signs up saying no fishing or hunting. Implying that both persuits must be very productive within the confines of the property.
The stop did the trick and gave me energy to move on.
Another 10km down the road a truck stop come bar was entered, by now it was 1700hrs.
These places have a large dusty area out the front for trucks to park. The dust here is literally like talcum powder. Everyone is so lucky the wind is generally very light.
In the space of 20 minutes, 4 coconuts were punctured by the owner and the milk was drunk, it was out of this world, he grew them out the back, they were perfectly chilled. One dollar each was the asking price.
He said, I could camp out the back of the building.
It was great to relax and cook up a great pasta dish on some concrete and not be bothered by too many ants.
Having done this once in the tent, sleep was upon me like the sweat on my body all day.
21/7/2014 to Redencao
D74, T4, Av17.47, Max39, 30,693/5169
Hot, with slight nor easters.
Last night the local cat population had been a bit of a hindrance, they were obviously hungry.
Other than that, it was an uneventful night. Up about 0630, breakfast was enjoyed. Before leaving the establishment, another Coconut was punctured and drank. It is such a pity these were not more available, when chilled they are divine.
The asphalt now was a real patchy affair, it made riding a challenge just to stay out of potholes.
The traffic is now very light with few trucks. It has been sometime since trucks were not passing at regular intervals.
Small watercourses are everywhere on the side of the road.
Most are fully of fish, breaking the surface and jumping. Often there are egrets, some small others tall with everso long necks.
They are waiting patiently, for the opportunity to pluck some food from the brown waters. Most of these water holes are impacted by cattle.
At one bridge, a large Kingfisher must have been sitting on the girders beneath the span. It was quite amazing, out of nowhere he shot into the water below me and lifted off with a small fish in his beak. It was a display of supreme mastery.
This is the first time I have seen a Kingfisher do this successfully, that he was such a large member of the species made it even more of a spectacle.
At one water hole, a guy on a moto pulled over. He said they use nets in these places.
Most people use the words Bon Voyage or con Deus when I say goodbye, both are warming gestures.
Many of the smaller towns have evangelical churches in their main streets. Many are just one large auditorium, open right onto the street. The congregations can often be heard at night. All part of the sublime process one could assume.
The terrain getting closer to Redencao was bush clad hills and small holdings along the way.
It is great to see a variation in land use or lack thereof.
This side of South America has literally been one big cattle and grain farm.
The town of Redencao, had a wide main street that lead east to the state of Tocantins.
It was patched asphalt and had large patches of dusty dirt along its sides.
The prominent shops were appliance stores and big supermarkets. As always, there are drogarias almost every couple of hundred metres. I have never seen so many pharmacies as here in Brazil. Some of the towns with 15,000 people have a dozen or more. In Confresa the main street of a kilometre had at least 8-10.
They sell huge lines of generic medicines. The best thing is they all have free scales.
My weight is remaining constant at about 67kg. The reality is, I am eating very well and very regularly. Having this bit of excess weight gives me a bit of room for residual sustenance should an illness or diarrhoea set in.
The lack of hills and the effort required to negotiate them also keeps the weight on.
It was a hard town to find accommodation. The first place stopped at was full. The woman there was great. I stopped here for a great meal at here restaurant and used her wifi.
Again there was a large road gang in residence.
Finally after a couple of hours the Hotel Karine was booked for a couple of nights in the main street.
It was a basic lodging, but had big rooms and was naturally lit.
Washing was done on settling in.
Earlier while looking about some guys a tyre repair store helped me adjust my seat again with vice grips and pliers.
Really, I should not have used a hammer on it the other day. This has changed its contour. So from here more adjustments will have to be made.
I am carrying my multigrips in a front pannier now, for this purpose.
All this came about to try to alleviate a pressure point on a rivet on the left side.
Dinner was enjoyed back at the hotel where lunch was had.
The meals there are complimented with great salads, so it is all good.
Lunch is $7 and dinner $5 for all you can eat.
Whilst downtown here, outside the hotel, it is interesting to see in the stores the number of thongs (flip flops) available here. The Brasileiros have made them into a true fashion accessory. There are literally hundreds of different styles and colours, Haviannas are the dominant brand of course.
A novel idea for attracting shoppers is to cover the footpath in front of the store with shredded documents, many had their floors within littered with this paper also.
Luckily, the wind does not blow here this time of year. It is so dry, they tell me the rains will start in September.
Bob Dylan
That goes for Jacaré also !
17/7/2014 Confresa to Vila Rica, MT
D104, Av17, T7, 30,340 4,817
Slightly overcast but still 33 degrees
30km gravel
Being a bit reluctant to leave Confresa, still with this sore on my bum not 100% healed, last night a couple of large bandages were bought. It is healing as fast as it can, my blood is back in good shape, as a good dry scab has formed.
My time in Confresa was so relaxing.
A normal day would be commence enjoying the complimentary breakfast. Then reading the various newspapers on my phone.
Then wander into town to get some fruit for lunch.
The afternoon involved a couple of coffees, a sleep and at about 1900 a walk would be taken into town just to sit at an ice creamery and enjoy 2 large bowls of great flavoured ice cream and watch the traffic go by.
When I am not riding there is absolutely no guilt felt doing nothing. Infact, I try to stay out of the sun.
It is a good time really rest up. These hot days now are very enduring. The owner did have me to his house one day for a home cooked lunch.
With an early brekky, my wheels were turning by 0745.
My bum felt ok with the bandage attached.
The day was not overly hot early on. The heat here really kicks in about 1400 hrs, you can feel the sun burning and this is winter.
The road was smooth and just a series of small climbs and run down again.
With these conditions, it is easy to do 100km in a day.
Some people stopped me to take some photos with their children. They kindly topped me up with icy water.
Some 70km into the trip, the gravel commenced. It was in much better condition than the surface north of Agua Boa. Also not as dusty. The truck traffic has really decreased which is good news.
The gravel was an easy ride, soon the approaches to Vila Rica were seen.
You can always tell if a town is about, by the presence of communications towers .
Once in town a good cheap hotel was found, a cold shower taken, my clothes worn for the day were washed.
A trip was made into town for more bandages.
Off course, an ice-cream was enjoyed. The prices here are so reasonable. Four scoops of any flavours in a tall glass coats about $1.50.
They are popular meeting places in the relative coolness of the evening.
A huge buffet meal was eaten whilst using their wifi.
It was a shock to read about that Malaysian Airways plane being shot down.
The people who own the hotel told me about these electric fish in the water ways and lagoons here. They said not to swim in any water as they can kill you with their electric current.
It was good info. Though the only places I have been using the water it has been very clear. They are called Pirake Electrico.
There is more gravel road from here to the state line of Pará, some 40km north .
By the time I enter Pará tomorrow about 1350km have been ridden from south to north in Mato Grosso.
18/7/2014 Vila Rica, MT to Vila Mandi,PA
D72, T7, Av17.19, Max43, 30,413 4,889
Slightly cloudy, still and 30+
15km gravel
Well, last night, a huge buffet meal was enjoyed, having not eaten all day. Simply because hunger never visited me.
To put it bluntly, alot was eaten.
Before dinner, a long conversation was enjoyed with a good friend back home. It was nice to catch up.
My room was a prison cell like affair, very small, with no windows. Without the pedestal fan it would have been impossible to sleep in the claustrophobic heat.
Sleep came very quick.
In the morning things were not to good from my body point of view. Awake early, there was no motivation to get up. I felt like shit. It was a kind of nauseas blotted feeling.
Feeling this way, I did not rise from the bed till 0830, even then reluctantly. The last thing felt like doing was riding a fully loaded touring bike over gravel in the relentless heat.
Meandering out into the patio area, the owners were about.
My appetite was zero.
My understanding of the predicament was beginning to come to light.
The meal last night was a buffet, much of the meat eaten had been heavily impregnated with oil. Lots had been eaten.
My body, was infact glugged up with oil. I felt like going to the toilet and even a spew, neither were possible.
This has happened once or twice before. Especially being so hungry, it is like luxury uptake in plants. So much was eaten in a short time, all of the food, aside from the salads were prepared in oil.
Consideration had been made to stay here, had the room been a little better, this would have been done.
I also knew that the best way to purge this oil in my body was to burn it out with exertion. Reluctantly and very lethargically the bike was loaded in the already warming day at 0930.
Once loaded I got water from the fridge. This didn’t help matters one bit. It had that flavour of combined fridge odours and residue flavours from the product previously in the PET bottles. At least it was cold.
Saying goodbye, a weary old body on a bike meandered off down the road, up ahead were road works.
It was a bit of an obstacle course. At least my mind was kept off my nauseas state.
This went on for 15km. The surface was smooth though undulating, it was not to bad on the bum. Last night I had also bought gauze and tap to protect the now diminishing wound.
The scenery now is more broken bush and some small hills about. There are huge round boulders in the paddocks and some large anthills.
Thinking about the boulders, geology is not my forte, though I think that water is the only force that can make rocks round and smooth. Having considered this. There must have been some huge rivers here millions of years ago.
Soon the asphalt commenced, what a relief. Coming upon a bridge, a truck was parked at my approach, the driver was on the bridge looking into the muddy waters.
There was a Jacaré swimming leisurely at the surface, with that always looking for an opportunity casualness they possess.
We both hung around fascinated by his presence.
He soon got bored of us and swam up stream, we also went our separate ways.
The driver told me it was 5km to the state line with Pará.
My feeling of bloatedness, somewhat better, was still rendering me far from normal.
Once at the inspection point at the border. I pulled in and immediately headed to the cold water dispenser, the fresh filtered water was eagerly poured down my throat.
Sitting on a bench alongside the reception window, conversation was made with truck drivers as they did their paperwork after having walked across the dusty parking area infront of the building.
Chatting with the guys in charge of the formalities, they said come out the back. I wheeled the bike around. It was great to have a seat in the shade of the building. The cleaning lady bought a big plate of food out for me. The sight of it nearly made me sick, thats how I felt.
They could not understand why I did not want to eat it. It was explained and motioned that my stomach was not good.
We sat and talked for a bit. By now the heat of the day had kicked in. Slowly but surely my condition was worsening.
I could not ride on in this heat. I asked if they had somewhere I could lie down. They got a mattress from inside and placed it on the floor in a small room on the side of the building. Two Ibuprofen were taken, a pillow fashioned with some clothes.
It was so good to be lying down.. Very soon sleep came. Two hours later, upon waking. I actually felt a 100% better.
My body just needed more time to process this huge amount of oil ingested.
I slowly got packed. The heat of the day had subsided.
They told me it was 31km to Vila Mandi, all asphalt and flat. They also told me they had never seen another cyclist pass here.
A motel would be booked here, arrival based on the days average would be about 1730.
It was so good to have that lightness of body again, previously it had felt like all my orifices had been blocked for a few days.
Riding was again a pleasure in the coolness of the afternoon. The terrain was openly vegetated with contrasting almost white cattle grazing amongst the greenery.
Armadillos are often seen scratching about on the side of the road. The remains of many were also seen baked in the sun in the same place.
Arriving in Vila Mandi, the Hotel Trans America was booked. They had huge open sunlight rooms. It was great. Still not feeling hungry, it was nice to shower and just lie on the bed.
In hindsight, it had been a few weeks of full on activity. My body and mind were saying it is time to just chill. Time to just shut everything mentally and physically down.
Time just to stare out the window with nothing coming to mind.
I love this state of mind, it is like floating in space, a worn out body serves to enhance it.
Soup was cooked in the room and a couple of chilled apples and pears were bought at the local store. This town is just a main street on Ruta158.
Before going to bed, the pedestal fan on the small table was moved far enough away from my bed so to create just the gentlest of breezes.
It felt so good to be clean shaven, and having had a lovely hot shower. My hair was shampooed and conditioned, this too added to my relaxed state.
More importantly, it felt serene to be occupying a body nearly back in perfect working order!
The days now are incredibly hot. Often there is adrenalin running in my body as I ride. This has to be watched, as it creates an altered state of well being.
When it stops flowing, the real state of my body is revealed.
Often, one of exhaustion. This state is not unlike the feelings after a hard days snow skiing, it is an addictive place to be, but has to be followed by good rest and an easy mind.
Wandering around town in Vila Rica the other night, stepping off some high kerbs, I almost fell to the ground, such was the state of my thigh muscles. They were struggling to support my upper body weight .
Without adrenalin, this sensation for me is common.
The weakness makes me laugh as I struggle to stop myself from falling to the ground. It is an odd sensation but at the same time pleasantly rewarding.
Maybe you find that hard to understand. Putting the circumstance into words is like the feeling itself . Any description is as fleeting as the sensation.
19/7/2-14 Vila Mandi to 25km past Santana Do Araguaia (Hotel Trans Amreica)
D106, T8, av19.8, Max 45, 30519, 4995
Hot, slight head wind
I woke up feeling like a million dollars, had a large, early, complimentary breakfast and was on the road by 0700.
Early morning and before dark are such pleasant times to ride. There is a coolness in the air in the morning and interesting light come the afternoon. At these times, my music is not playing, it is the time to see animals and hear things as I ride. Many times, there is a sound of movement in the long roadside grass, generally it is always Armadillos. Possibly foraging for grain that has come off trucks.
Ranchers are often moving stock at these times. Birds are also at their most vocal in the mornings and before dark.
Riding again was a lovely mix of gentle terrain. It felt great to be back in perfect working order, the sore bum was almost sorted out, so, all was good.
The days now are all reaching the early 30’s. Between 1300 and 1430 it is so damn hot. I am trying to stop between these times.
As it happened, today at 1200 saw me arrive in Santana Do Araguaia with 80km on the odometer.
It was a smallish town. Here a couple of chocolate thick shakes were enjoyed.
The owner of a hotel in the main street let me use his wifi for an hour. Leaving here chilled water was loaded. The owner was given R5.
With water for the night and happy just to do another 20km or more.
Twenty odd km down the road, a new fence line was being installed. Running right angles to the road, was a cleared track in the forest. This was entered, when no vehicles were approaching.
A few hundred metres in here, a gap was found where the bike could be wheeled into the bush.
It was perfect, away from traffic allowing the headlight to be used at will.
I had time to set my hammock up and get used to its adjustments.
Further north, this will be my only accommodation. There are too many ants on the ground for a tent .
Within 15 minutes of having put my gear on the ground, the they turned up in huge numbers. There were brown ones, black ones, some were in a hurry, others were more slow moving, others were bull ant size but all had hit the jackpot when it came to things worthy of exploration. My sandals were a favourite, they were covered in medium size characters, obviously attracted by the sweat that had impregnated them all day.
Seeing all this activity, I was so relieved to know my night would be spent off the ground.
Once the hammock was set up and tested a few times, my sleeping bag was placed within and the pillowslip filled with clothes as usual.
Dinner was an adhoc offering. The pasta previously bought was unknowingly the egg type. Once boiled it is like glue. I tossed this and ended up just having canned peas and soup.
I am not used to sleeping on my back, so the hammock is going to take some getting used to. Though you can sleep on your side, the spine is at an odd angle, not good.
My panniers and other things were closed and put on the ground by the hammock, everything else was hung in a small tree.
The size 12 Opinel knife is used at almost all campsites to trim away bushes and branches. Its usefulness cannot be overstated.
Once in the hammock, getting to sleep was tricky. There were monkeys calling in the distance and the new sleeping position had its difficulties. The only other sounds in the bush were leaves as they fell to the ground. That is how quiet the place was. Occasionally other birds would let out a call of no concern.
With the incorporated insect screen, it is quite hot inside. It was unzipped just enough to allow me to breath the outside air, it made a big difference .
The other day, talking to a friend in NZ, he informed me he was going to take similar time out for a year or more.
Learning, from my time doing this. The one most important piece of advice to give to anyone would be:
Get yourself set up, to completely minimise any responsibilities in your home.
By that, I mean have no one relying on you for anything, give no one a reason to contact you, for other than social reasons.
Believe me, the less time you spend thinking about what maybe happening at home, the more enjoyable are the experiences whilst travelling.
After all, you are doing this to be free of these restrictions that almost everyone puts up with.
I sometimes, almost start laughing to myself when realising that the last 10 minutes have been spent watching ants at work or just sitting still in a state of nowhere in particular.
The provision of no responsibilities elsewhere truly allows for such pleasures.
This of course is a slow process, as thoughts of home will follow for the first 6 months or more.
After years and years of this conditioning in our lives, it is quite normal. Once I broke through this barrier, the pleasures derived from this existence are euphoric to say the least.
Each day brings these little pleasures.
Friends have said to me on asking “what’s happening?” and they reply, “same shit different day”. What they are really saying is “I put up with it, because really, I am scared to change or do anything about it”.
It is such a pleasure to see people who are enthusiastic about their lives, regardless of what they’re doing.
20/7/2014 Bush camp to bar 70km sth Redencao
D100, T8, Av19.8, Max45 30619, 5095
Hot
Given the conditions, a good nights sleep had been enjoyed. I think sleep came about 2300 and I awoke at 0530, for me that is plenty. The only way I am able to get to sleep is to transport my mind away from the surroundings.
Doing this successfully it is sometimes like you are in the comfort of a building.
Listening for every sound is the problem as all my senses become hyper sensitive, it is impossible to sleep.
Macaque monkeys were intermittently calling from another part of the bush. Their noise is not unlike Howler Monkeys but nowhere as loud.
Overnight industrious termites had built shelter tubes in my sandals and on my panniers that had been left on the ground. They lay down small particles of dirt mixed with their saliva.
Almost all the gear that was oon the ground is covered in these foundations for their shelter tubes.
Everything hanging in trees was fine. Sleeping in my tent is now not a proposition when camped in the forest. It would be best described as a dry rainforest, there were large vines, palms and something of an understory. The canopy was still largely open.
There was light reaching the floor. Here heliocanths were growing among other plants. Some grasses had clinging seeds, they were so well attached to the hairs on my legs that their removal also took the.hairs from my legs.
There is an opportunity for natural hair removal using these affectionate seeds.
Whilst having breakfast, a whirling noise was heard, looking up here was the tiniest of deep blue Hummingbirds hovering a metre from me just having an inquiring look at the visitor. As I gave him my attention, he soon disappeared at a great speed as they do.
Breakfast was tuna and cut up onion, porridge and coffee.
Once one the road, the scenery really started to get exciting, there was lots of bush about and hill country clad in heavy forest. There was even some thunderous clouds in the sky.
The natural vegetation was creating a small microclimate.
A truck driver gave me water. He also told me there was a place to buy drinks some 20km on. The riding was still a pleasure with a rolling terrain.
Infact, for the last 5000km the roads have gone from dead flat in UR and PY, small ranges in Missiones, AR to this riding here in BR, which from a terrain point of view is about as good as it gets. Terrain, that is a mix of gentle climbs and an easy freewheeling back down into the next catchment. It is so much more enjoyable than flat land, as effort is not required all the time.
Arriving at the rustic building where the bar was, pulling in, I was greeted by a bunch of guys who had been camping and fishing. They were travelling on motos.
Drinks were enjoyed, 3 cans of Coke that is and lots of chilled water.
The owner gave me a taste of this Rum 51 that is as cheap as dirt, plonk would best describe it. The supermarkets sell it for $6 for a large bottle.
Soon the town of Codespar was reached, A restaurant was found that had a buffet. This time, caution was used when selecting the meats.
A bunch of guys were hanging about. They came and joined me .
Mauricio, a great young guy who could speak Spanish was filling mme in on the animals found in the bush here and road conditions. He was of Italian extraction and had a grandmother in Australia.
They were staying in town whilst they were asphalting some of the main street. On going to pay for the meal, the woman told me Mauricio had payed. I protested greatly. The result was sincerely thanking him.
Anyway, sometime later, I bought his mates a large bottle of coke to share.
Their wages are so much lower than people doing the same work in Australia, he did tell me. I can’t remember so don’t quote me but it was either $250 a week or 125, either way it is very little when one takes in the price of basic items needed to live here.
Given this, it was a great gesture of him to pay for my meal, he was one of those guys you instantly like, his co workers could be seen to feel the same way. We had some good laughs.
My stay in town was for an hour or more, Mauricio took me to his hotel where the wifi was used.
Leaving town, as approaching a bridge, a glance down the river revealed dozens of people picnicking and swimming. There were a few trucks from the Soya Express pulled over randomly on the narrow road.
Riding down the track, the bike was parked, I had a chat with a few people .
From here, my pockets were checked for items and it was fully clothed into the cooling waters of the grey coloured water. It felt so damn good.
Being Sunday it was quite an occasion down here, people were BBQ’ing, fishing, drinking and dancing to rhythmic Brazilian music. Across the river some girls were putting on a show of their dancing.
It was amazing the flow of their hips, they were having a great time.
Speaking with some of the truck drivers, they said they were on their way to Sao Paulo with grain. They introduced me to some Brasilieras. They were young guys, I think they were here for more than just a swim and a few beers.
It was a great insight into life here in central BR. Motos are a very important form of transport here. Most bikes are Hondas, all of 150cc. Helmets appear to be mandatory though not worn by all. Once again, it is nothing to see a young family of 4 on a bike in towns.
Once on my way, some 15km down the road, my energy levels just disappeared, I had hit a wall big time.
This has not happened for weeks. Coming across a little bus shelter I pulled in and hurriedly opened up a very warm can of sardines and ate them with crackers ,some Nutella was also put on further crackers. An old guy on a bike pulled up, another drifter kind of cyclist, he had almost no gear.
Almost all Fazenda entrances now have signs up saying no fishing or hunting. Implying that both persuits must be very productive within the confines of the property.
The stop did the trick and gave me energy to move on.
Another 10km down the road a truck stop come bar was entered, by now it was 1700hrs.
These places have a large dusty area out the front for trucks to park. The dust here is literally like talcum powder. Everyone is so lucky the wind is generally very light.
In the space of 20 minutes, 4 coconuts were punctured by the owner and the milk was drunk, it was out of this world, he grew them out the back, they were perfectly chilled. One dollar each was the asking price.
He said, I could camp out the back of the building.
It was great to relax and cook up a great pasta dish on some concrete and not be bothered by too many ants.
Having done this once in the tent, sleep was upon me like the sweat on my body all day.
21/7/2014 to Redencao
D74, T4, Av17.47, Max39, 30,693/5169
Hot, with slight nor easters.
Last night the local cat population had been a bit of a hindrance, they were obviously hungry.
Other than that, it was an uneventful night. Up about 0630, breakfast was enjoyed. Before leaving the establishment, another Coconut was punctured and drank. It is such a pity these were not more available, when chilled they are divine.
The asphalt now was a real patchy affair, it made riding a challenge just to stay out of potholes.
The traffic is now very light with few trucks. It has been sometime since trucks were not passing at regular intervals.
Small watercourses are everywhere on the side of the road.
Most are fully of fish, breaking the surface and jumping. Often there are egrets, some small others tall with everso long necks.
They are waiting patiently, for the opportunity to pluck some food from the brown waters. Most of these water holes are impacted by cattle.
At one bridge, a large Kingfisher must have been sitting on the girders beneath the span. It was quite amazing, out of nowhere he shot into the water below me and lifted off with a small fish in his beak. It was a display of supreme mastery.
This is the first time I have seen a Kingfisher do this successfully, that he was such a large member of the species made it even more of a spectacle.
At one water hole, a guy on a moto pulled over. He said they use nets in these places.
Most people use the words Bon Voyage or con Deus when I say goodbye, both are warming gestures.
Many of the smaller towns have evangelical churches in their main streets. Many are just one large auditorium, open right onto the street. The congregations can often be heard at night. All part of the sublime process one could assume.
The terrain getting closer to Redencao was bush clad hills and small holdings along the way.
It is great to see a variation in land use or lack thereof.
This side of South America has literally been one big cattle and grain farm.
The town of Redencao, had a wide main street that lead east to the state of Tocantins.
It was patched asphalt and had large patches of dusty dirt along its sides.
The prominent shops were appliance stores and big supermarkets. As always, there are drogarias almost every couple of hundred metres. I have never seen so many pharmacies as here in Brazil. Some of the towns with 15,000 people have a dozen or more. In Confresa the main street of a kilometre had at least 8-10.
They sell huge lines of generic medicines. The best thing is they all have free scales.
My weight is remaining constant at about 67kg. The reality is, I am eating very well and very regularly. Having this bit of excess weight gives me a bit of room for residual sustenance should an illness or diarrhoea set in.
The lack of hills and the effort required to negotiate them also keeps the weight on.
It was a hard town to find accommodation. The first place stopped at was full. The woman there was great. I stopped here for a great meal at here restaurant and used her wifi.
Again there was a large road gang in residence.
Finally after a couple of hours the Hotel Karine was booked for a couple of nights in the main street.
It was a basic lodging, but had big rooms and was naturally lit.
Washing was done on settling in.
Earlier while looking about some guys a tyre repair store helped me adjust my seat again with vice grips and pliers.
Really, I should not have used a hammer on it the other day. This has changed its contour. So from here more adjustments will have to be made.
I am carrying my multigrips in a front pannier now, for this purpose.
All this came about to try to alleviate a pressure point on a rivet on the left side.
Dinner was enjoyed back at the hotel where lunch was had.
The meals there are complimented with great salads, so it is all good.
Lunch is $7 and dinner $5 for all you can eat.
Whilst downtown here, outside the hotel, it is interesting to see in the stores the number of thongs (flip flops) available here. The Brasileiros have made them into a true fashion accessory. There are literally hundreds of different styles and colours, Haviannas are the dominant brand of course.
A novel idea for attracting shoppers is to cover the footpath in front of the store with shredded documents, many had their floors within littered with this paper also.
Luckily, the wind does not blow here this time of year. It is so dry, they tell me the rains will start in September.
Interestingly, the drivers can change air pressures in all tyres from the cab. Probably to suit differing road conditions and traveling empty.
The 9 axle trucks can lift 3 axles when unloaded.
I told the guys that very few Australians trucks move around unloaded.
I also told them how aggressive many truck drivers are in Australia.
Jacaré habitat
Scenery change, Pará
Feeling like shit at the Mato Grosso - Pará border office.
The sun beats decay here in the dry season.
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After 3 years, the glue and some heavy duty thread solved this problem. Riding would be so difficult without these sandals.
Early morning line up near Vila Mandes.
Melons at a roadside stall.
Mauricio on the right, such a likeable guy.
Nice riding, with typical small climb
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Away from the ants.
