browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
Picture
“A man is a success, if he gets up in the morning and goes to bed at night and in between, does what he wants to do”

Bob Dylan


That goes for Jacaré also
!







17/7/2014 Confresa to Vila Rica
, MT

D104, Av17, T7, 30,340 4,817

Slightly overcast but still 33 degrees

30km gravel

Being a bit reluctant to leave Confresa, still with this sore on my bum not 100% healed, last night a couple of large bandages were bought. It is healing as fast as it can, my blood is back in good shape, as a good dry scab has formed.

My time in Confresa was so relaxing.

A normal day would be commence enjoying the complimentary breakfast. Then reading the various newspapers on my phone.

 Then wander into town to get some fruit for lunch.

The afternoon involved a couple of coffees, a sleep and at about 1900 a walk would be taken into town just to sit at an ice creamery and enjoy 2 large bowls of great flavoured ice cream and watch the traffic go by.

When I am not riding there is absolutely no guilt felt doing nothing. Infact, I try to stay out of the sun.

It is a good time really rest up. These hot days now are very enduring. The owner did have me to his house one day for a home cooked lunch.

With an early brekky, my wheels were turning by 0745.

My bum felt ok with the bandage attached.

The day  was not overly hot early on. The heat here really kicks in about 1400 hrs, you can feel the sun burning and this is winter.

The road was smooth and just a series of small climbs and run down again.

With these conditions, it is easy to do 100km in a day.

Some people stopped me to take some photos with their children. They kindly topped me up with icy water.

Some 70km into the trip, the gravel commenced. It was in much better condition than the surface north of Agua Boa. Also not as dusty. The truck traffic has really decreased which is good news.

The gravel was an easy ride, soon the approaches to Vila Rica were seen.

You can always tell if a town is about, by the presence of communications towers .

Once in town a good cheap hotel was found, a cold shower taken, my clothes worn for the day were washed.

A trip was made into town for more bandages.

Off course, an ice-cream was enjoyed. The prices here are so reasonable. Four scoops of any flavours in a tall glass coats about $1.50.

They are popular meeting places in the relative coolness of the evening.

A huge buffet meal was eaten whilst using their wifi.

It was a shock to read about that Malaysian Airways plane being shot down.

The people who own the hotel told me about these electric fish in the water ways and lagoons here. They said not to swim in any water as they can kill you with their electric current.

It was good info. Though the only places I have been using the water it has been very clear. They are called Pirake Electrico.

There is more gravel road from here to the state line of Pará, some 40km north .

By the time I enter Pará tomorrow about 1350km have been ridden from south to north in Mato Grosso.

18/7/2014 Vila Rica, MT to Vila Mandi,PA

D72, T7, Av17.19, Max43, 30,413 4,889

Slightly cloudy, still and 30+

15km gravel

Well, last night, a  huge buffet meal was enjoyed, having not eaten all day. Simply because hunger never visited me.

To put it bluntly, alot was eaten.

Before dinner, a long conversation was enjoyed with a good friend back home. It was nice to catch up.

My room was a prison cell like affair, very small, with no windows. Without the pedestal fan it would have been impossible to sleep in the claustrophobic  heat.

Sleep came very quick.

In the morning things were not to good from my body point of view. Awake early, there was no motivation to get up. I felt like shit. It was a kind of nauseas blotted feeling.

Feeling this way, I did not rise from the bed till 0830, even then reluctantly. The last thing felt like doing was riding a fully loaded touring bike over gravel in the relentless heat.

Meandering out into the patio area, the owners were about.

My appetite was zero.

My understanding of the predicament was beginning to come to light.

The meal last night was a buffet, much of the meat eaten had been heavily impregnated with oil. Lots had been eaten.

My body, was infact glugged up with oil. I felt like going to the toilet and even a spew, neither were possible.

This has happened once or twice before. Especially being so hungry, it is like luxury uptake in plants. So much was eaten in a short time, all of the food, aside from the salads were prepared in oil.

Consideration had been made to stay here, had the room been a little better, this would have been done.

I also knew that the best way to purge this oil in my body was to burn it out with exertion. Reluctantly and very lethargically the bike was loaded in the already warming day at 0930.

 Once loaded I got water from the fridge. This didn’t help matters one bit. It had that flavour of combined fridge odours and residue flavours from the product previously in the PET bottles. At least it was cold.

Saying goodbye, a weary old body on a bike meandered off down the road, up ahead were road works.

It was a bit of an obstacle course. At least my mind was kept off my nauseas state.

This went on for 15km. The surface was smooth though undulating, it was not to bad on the bum. Last night I had also bought gauze and tap to protect the now diminishing wound.

The scenery now is more broken bush and some small hills about. There are huge round boulders in the paddocks and some large anthills.

Thinking about the boulders, geology is not my forte, though I think that water is the only force that can make rocks round and smooth. Having considered this. There must have been some huge rivers here millions of years ago.

Soon the asphalt commenced, what a relief. Coming upon a bridge, a truck was parked at my approach, the driver was on the bridge looking into the muddy waters.

There was a Jacaré swimming leisurely at the surface, with that always looking for an opportunity casualness they possess.

We both hung around fascinated by his presence.

He soon got bored of us and swam up stream, we also went our separate ways.

The driver told me it was 5km to the state line with Pará.

My feeling of bloatedness, somewhat better, was still rendering me far from normal.

Once at the inspection point at the border. I pulled in and immediately headed to the cold water dispenser, the fresh filtered water was eagerly poured down my throat.

Sitting on a bench alongside the reception window, conversation was made with truck drivers as they did their paperwork after having walked across the dusty parking area infront of the building.

Chatting with the guys in charge of the formalities, they said come out the back. I wheeled the bike around. It was great to have a seat in the shade of the building. The cleaning lady bought a big plate of food out for me. The sight of it nearly made me sick, thats how I felt.

They could not understand why  I did not want to eat it. It was explained and motioned that my stomach was not good.

We sat and talked for a bit. By now the heat of the day had kicked in. Slowly but surely my condition was worsening.

I could not ride on in this heat. I asked if they had somewhere I could lie down. They got a mattress from inside and placed it on the floor in a small room on the side of the building. Two Ibuprofen were taken, a pillow fashioned with some clothes.

 It was so good to be lying down.. Very soon sleep came. Two hours later, upon waking. I actually felt a 100% better.

My body just needed more time to process this huge amount of oil ingested.

I slowly got packed. The heat of the day had subsided.

They told me it was 31km to Vila Mandi, all asphalt and flat. They also told me they had never seen another cyclist pass here.  

A motel would be booked here, arrival based on the days average would be about 1730.

It was so good to have that lightness of body again, previously it had felt like all my orifices had been blocked for a few days.

Riding was again a pleasure in the coolness of the afternoon. The terrain was openly vegetated with contrasting almost white cattle grazing amongst the greenery.

Armadillos are often seen scratching about on the side of the road. The remains of many were also seen baked in the sun in the same place.

Arriving in Vila Mandi, the Hotel Trans America was booked. They had huge open sunlight rooms. It was great. Still not feeling hungry, it was nice to shower and just lie on the bed.

In hindsight, it had been a few weeks of full on activity. My body and mind were saying it is time to just chill. Time to just shut everything mentally and physically down.

Time just to stare out the window with nothing coming to mind.

I love this state of mind, it is like floating in space, a worn out body serves to enhance it.

Soup was cooked in the room and a couple of chilled apples and pears were bought at the local store. This town is just a main street on Ruta158.

Before going to bed, the pedestal fan on the small table was moved far enough away from my bed so to create just the gentlest of breezes.

It felt so good to be clean shaven, and having had a lovely hot shower. My hair was shampooed and conditioned, this too added to my relaxed state.

More importantly, it felt serene to be occupying a body nearly back in perfect working order!

The days now are incredibly hot. Often there is adrenalin running in my body as I ride. This has to be watched, as it creates an altered state of well being.

When it stops flowing, the real state of my body is revealed.

Often, one of exhaustion. This state is not unlike the feelings after a hard days snow skiing, it is an addictive place to be, but has to be followed by good rest and an easy mind.

Wandering around town in Vila Rica the other night, stepping off some high kerbs, I almost fell to the ground, such was the state of my thigh muscles. They were struggling to support my upper body weight .

Without adrenalin, this sensation for me is common.

The weakness makes me laugh as I struggle to stop myself from falling to the ground. It is an odd sensation but at the same time pleasantly rewarding.

Maybe you find that hard to understand. Putting the circumstance into words is like the feeling itself . Any description is as fleeting as the sensation.

19/7/2-14 Vila Mandi to 25km past Santana Do Araguaia (Hotel Trans Amreica)

D106, T8, av19.8, Max 45, 30519, 4995

Hot, slight head wind

I woke up feeling like a million dollars, had a large, early, complimentary breakfast and was on the road by 0700.

Early morning and before dark are such pleasant times to ride. There is a coolness in the air in the morning and interesting light come the afternoon. At these times, my music is not playing, it is the time to see animals and hear things as I ride. Many times, there is a sound of movement in the long roadside grass, generally it is always Armadillos. Possibly foraging for grain that has come off trucks.

Ranchers are often moving stock at these times. Birds are also at their most vocal in the mornings and before dark.

Riding again was a lovely mix of gentle terrain. It felt great to be back in perfect working order, the sore bum was almost sorted out, so, all was good.

The days now are all reaching the early 30’s. Between 1300 and 1430 it is so damn hot. I am trying to stop between these times.

As it happened, today at 1200 saw me arrive in Santana Do Araguaia with 80km on the odometer.

It was a smallish town. Here a couple of chocolate thick shakes were enjoyed.

The owner of a hotel in the main street let me use his wifi for an hour. Leaving here chilled water was loaded. The owner was given R5.

 With water for the night and happy just to do another 20km or more.

Twenty odd km down the road, a new fence line was being installed. Running right angles to the road, was a cleared track in the forest. This was entered, when no vehicles were approaching.

 A few hundred metres in here, a gap was found where the bike could be wheeled into the bush.

It was perfect, away from traffic allowing the headlight to be used at will.

I had time to set my hammock up and get used to its adjustments.

Further north, this will be my only accommodation. There are too many ants on the ground for a tent .

Within 15 minutes of having put my gear on the ground, the they turned up in huge numbers. There were brown ones, black ones, some were in a hurry, others were more slow moving, others were bull ant size but all had hit the jackpot when it came to things worthy of exploration. My sandals were a favourite, they were covered in medium size  characters, obviously attracted by the sweat that had impregnated them all day.

Seeing all this activity, I was so relieved to know my night would be spent off the ground.

Once the hammock was set up and tested a few times, my sleeping bag was placed within and the pillowslip filled with clothes as usual.

Dinner was an adhoc offering. The pasta previously bought was unknowingly the egg type. Once boiled it is like glue. I tossed this and ended up just having canned peas and soup.

I am not used to sleeping on my back, so the hammock is going to take some getting used to. Though you can sleep on your side, the spine is at an odd angle, not good.

My panniers and other things were closed and put on the ground by the hammock, everything else was hung in a small tree.

The size 12 Opinel knife is used at almost all campsites to trim away bushes and branches. Its usefulness cannot be overstated.

Once in the hammock, getting to sleep was tricky. There were monkeys calling in the distance and the new sleeping position had its difficulties. The only other sounds in the bush were leaves as they fell to the ground. That is how quiet the place was. Occasionally other birds would let out a call of no concern.

With the incorporated insect screen, it is quite hot inside. It was unzipped just enough to allow me to breath the outside air, it made a big difference .

The other day, talking to a friend in NZ, he informed me he was going to take similar time out for a year or more.

Learning, from my time doing this. The one most important piece of advice to give to anyone would be:

Get yourself set up, to completely minimise any responsibilities in your home.

By that, I mean have no one relying on you for anything, give no one a reason to contact you, for other than social reasons.

Believe me, the less time you spend thinking about what maybe happening at home, the more enjoyable are the experiences  whilst travelling.

After all, you are doing this to be free of these restrictions that almost everyone puts up with.

I sometimes, almost start laughing to myself when realising that the last 10 minutes have been spent watching ants at work or just sitting still in a state of nowhere in particular.

The provision of no responsibilities elsewhere truly allows for such pleasures.

This of course is a slow process, as thoughts of home will follow for the first 6 months or more.

After years and years of this conditioning in our lives, it is quite normal. Once I broke through this barrier, the pleasures derived from this existence are euphoric to say the least.

Each day brings these little pleasures.

Friends have said to me on asking “what’s happening?” and they reply, “same shit different day”. What they are really saying is “I put up with it, because really, I am scared to change or do anything about it”.

It is such a pleasure to see people who are enthusiastic about their lives, regardless of what they’re doing.

 20/7/2014 Bush camp to bar 70km sth Redencao

D100, T8, Av19.8, Max45 30619, 5095

Hot

Given the conditions, a good nights sleep had been enjoyed.  I think sleep came about 2300 and I awoke at 0530, for me that is plenty. The only way I am able to  get to sleep is to transport my mind away from the surroundings.

Doing this successfully it is sometimes like you are in the comfort of a building.

Listening for every sound is the problem as all my senses become hyper sensitive, it is impossible to sleep.

Macaque monkeys were intermittently calling from another part of the bush. Their noise is not unlike Howler Monkeys but nowhere as loud.

Overnight industrious termites had built shelter tubes in my sandals and on my panniers that had been left on the ground. They lay down small particles of dirt mixed with their saliva.

Almost all the gear that was oon the ground is covered in these foundations for their shelter tubes.

Everything hanging in trees was fine. Sleeping in my tent is now not a proposition when camped in the forest. It would be best described as a dry rainforest, there were large vines, palms and something of an understory. The canopy was still largely open.

There was light reaching the floor. Here heliocanths were growing among other plants. Some grasses had clinging seeds, they were so well attached to the hairs on my legs that their removal also took the.hairs from my legs.

There is an opportunity for natural hair removal using these affectionate seeds.

Whilst having breakfast, a whirling noise was heard, looking up here was the tiniest of deep blue Hummingbirds hovering a metre from me just having an inquiring look at the visitor. As I gave him my attention, he soon disappeared at a great speed as they do.

Breakfast was tuna and cut up onion, porridge and coffee.

Once one the road, the scenery really started to get exciting, there was lots of bush about and hill country clad in heavy forest. There was even some thunderous clouds in the sky.

The natural vegetation was creating a small microclimate.

A truck driver gave me water. He also told me there was a place to buy drinks some 20km on. The riding was still a pleasure with a rolling terrain.

 Infact, for the last 5000km the roads have gone from dead flat in UR and PY, small ranges in Missiones, AR to this riding here in BR, which from a terrain point of view is about as good as it gets. Terrain, that is a mix of gentle climbs and an easy freewheeling  back down into the next catchment. It is so much more enjoyable than flat land, as effort is not required all the time.

Arriving at the rustic building where the bar was, pulling in, I was greeted by a bunch of guys who had been camping and fishing. They were travelling on motos.

Drinks were enjoyed, 3 cans of Coke that is and lots of chilled water.

The owner gave me a taste of this Rum 51 that is as cheap as dirt, plonk would best describe it. The supermarkets sell it for $6 for a large bottle.

Soon the town of Codespar was reached, A restaurant was found that had a buffet. This time, caution was used when selecting the meats.

A bunch of guys were hanging about. They came and joined me .

Mauricio, a great young guy who could speak Spanish was filling mme in on the animals found in the bush here and road conditions. He was of Italian extraction and had a grandmother in Australia.

They were staying in town whilst they were asphalting some of the main street. On going to pay for the meal, the woman told me Mauricio had payed. I protested greatly. The result was sincerely thanking him.

Anyway, sometime later, I bought his mates a large bottle of coke to share.

Their wages are so much lower than people doing the same work in Australia, he did tell me. I can’t remember so don’t  quote me but it was either $250 a week or 125, either way it is very little when one takes in the price of basic items needed to live here.

Given this, it was a great gesture of him to pay for my meal, he was one of those guys you instantly like, his co workers could be seen to feel the same way. We had some good laughs.

My stay in town was for an hour or more, Mauricio took me to his hotel where the wifi was used.

Leaving town, as approaching a bridge, a glance down the river revealed dozens of people picnicking and swimming. There were a few trucks from the Soya Express  pulled over randomly on the narrow road.

Riding down the track, the bike was parked, I had a chat with a few people .

 From here, my pockets were checked for items and it was fully clothed into the cooling waters of the grey coloured water. It felt so damn good.

Being Sunday it was quite an occasion down here, people were BBQ’ing, fishing, drinking and dancing to rhythmic Brazilian music. Across the river some girls were putting on a show of their dancing.

It was amazing the flow of their hips, they were having a great time.

Speaking with some of the truck drivers, they said they were on their way to Sao Paulo with grain. They introduced me to some Brasilieras. They were young guys, I think they were here for more than just a swim and a few beers.

It was a great insight into life here in central BR. Motos are a very important form of transport here. Most bikes are Hondas, all of 150cc. Helmets appear to be mandatory though not worn by all. Once again, it is nothing to see a young family of 4 on a bike in towns.

Once on my way, some 15km down the road, my energy levels just disappeared, I had hit a wall big time.

This has not happened for weeks. Coming across a little bus shelter I pulled in and hurriedly opened up a very warm can of sardines and ate them with crackers ,some Nutella was also put on further crackers. An old guy on a bike pulled up, another drifter kind of cyclist, he had almost no gear.

Almost all Fazenda entrances now have signs up saying no fishing or hunting. Implying that both persuits must be very productive within the confines of the property.

The stop did the trick and gave me energy to move on.

Another 10km down the road a truck stop come bar was entered, by now it was 1700hrs.

These places have a large dusty area out the front for trucks to park. The dust here is literally like talcum powder. Everyone is so lucky the wind is generally very light.

In the space of 20 minutes, 4 coconuts were punctured by the owner and the milk was drunk, it was out of this world, he grew them out the back, they were perfectly chilled. One dollar each was the asking price.

He said, I could camp out the back of the building.

It was great to relax and cook up a great pasta dish on some concrete and not be bothered by too many ants.

Having done this once in the tent, sleep was upon me like the sweat on my body all day.

21/7/2014 to Redencao

D74, T4, Av17.47, Max39, 30,693/5169

Hot, with slight nor easters.

Last night the local cat population had been a bit of a hindrance, they were obviously hungry.

Other than that, it was an uneventful night. Up about 0630, breakfast was enjoyed. Before leaving the establishment, another Coconut was punctured and drank. It is such a pity these were not more available, when chilled they are divine.

The asphalt now was a real patchy affair, it made riding a challenge just to stay out of potholes.

The traffic is now very light with few trucks. It has been sometime since trucks were not passing at regular intervals.

Small watercourses are everywhere on the side of the road.

Most are fully of fish, breaking the surface and jumping. Often there are egrets, some small others tall with everso long necks.

They are waiting patiently, for the opportunity to pluck some food from the brown waters. Most of these water holes are impacted by cattle.

At one bridge, a large Kingfisher must have been sitting on the girders beneath the span. It was quite amazing, out of nowhere he shot into the water below me and lifted off with a small fish in his beak. It was a display of supreme mastery.

This is the first time I have seen a Kingfisher do this successfully, that he was such a large member of the species made it even more of a spectacle.

At one water hole, a guy on a moto pulled over. He said they use nets in these places.

Most people use the words Bon Voyage or con Deus when I say goodbye, both are warming gestures.

Many of the smaller towns have evangelical churches in their main streets. Many are just one large auditorium, open right onto the street. The congregations can often be heard at night. All  part of the sublime process one could assume.

The terrain getting closer to Redencao was bush clad hills and small holdings along the way.

It is great to see a variation in land use or lack thereof.

This side of South America has literally been one big cattle and grain farm.

The town of Redencao, had a wide main street that lead east to the state of Tocantins.

It was patched asphalt and had large patches of dusty dirt along its sides.

The prominent shops were appliance stores and big supermarkets. As always,  there are drogarias almost every couple of hundred metres. I have never seen so many pharmacies as here in Brazil. Some of the towns with 15,000 people have a dozen or more. In Confresa the main street of a kilometre had at least 8-10.

 They sell huge lines of generic medicines. The best thing is they all have free scales.

My weight is remaining constant at about 67kg. The reality is, I am eating very well and very regularly. Having this bit of excess weight gives me a bit of room for residual sustenance should an illness or diarrhoea set in.

The lack of hills and the effort required to negotiate them also keeps the weight on.

It was a hard town to find accommodation.  The first place stopped at was full. The woman there was great. I stopped here for a great meal at here restaurant and used her wifi.

Again there was a large road gang in residence.

Finally after a couple of hours the Hotel Karine was booked for  a couple of nights in the main street.

It was a basic lodging, but had big rooms and was naturally lit.

Washing was done on settling in.

Earlier while looking about some guys a  tyre repair store helped me adjust my seat again with vice grips and pliers.

Really, I should not have used a hammer on it the other day. This has changed its contour. So from here more adjustments will have to be made.

I am carrying my multigrips in a front pannier now, for this purpose.

All this came about to try to alleviate a pressure point on a rivet on the left side.

Dinner was enjoyed back at the hotel where lunch was had.

The meals there are complimented with great salads, so it is all good.

Lunch is $7 and dinner $5 for all you can eat.

Whilst downtown here, outside the hotel, it is interesting to see in the stores the number of thongs (flip flops) available here. The Brasileiros have made them into a true fashion accessory. There are literally hundreds of different styles and colours,  Haviannas are the dominant brand of course.

A novel idea for attracting shoppers is to cover the footpath in front of the store with shredded documents, many had their floors within littered with this paper also.

Luckily, the wind does not blow here this time of year. It is so dry, they tell me the rains will start in September.

  


Picture
Interestingly, the drivers can change air pressures in all tyres from the cab. Probably to suit differing road conditions and traveling empty. The 9 axle trucks can lift 3 axles when unloaded. I told the guys that very few Australians trucks move around unloaded. I also told them how aggressive many truck drivers are in Australia.
Picture
Jacaré habitat
Picture
Scenery change, Pará
Picture
Feeling like shit at the Mato Grosso - Pará border office.
Picture
The sun beats decay here in the dry season.
Picture
Picture
After 3 years, the glue and some heavy duty thread solved this problem. Riding would be so difficult without these sandals.
Picture
Early morning line up near Vila Mandes.
Picture
Melons at a roadside stall.
Picture
Mauricio on the right, such a likeable guy.
Picture
Nice riding, with typical small climb
Picture
Away from the ants.
Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.