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18/7/2015 Nyabugogo, Kigali to Lac Sake
D87, T5.42 Av15 , max67, 43,099 8,056
Clear warm day, sou easter blowing , comfortable
Our last day in Kigali was really spent to rest my leg up a lttle more. We visited the Kigali Memorial, dedicated to those who were murdered in the 1994 genocide of the Tutsis. The video presentation left me emotionally disturbed and in tears. It took awhile to compose myself before leaving the theatrette.
I needed a new cable for my front brakes. There are a number ofbikes shops just behind the taxi park at Nybugogo. They are pretty basic but have lots of scond hand parts. Ben got a new mount for his seat.
My room at the Mont Kigali hotel had rats in it, they enjoyed my avocados and tomatoes, I talked the manager into giving me a discount because of this.
He obliged.
We ate each night over at the taxi park in the same restaurant that had great natural yoghurt and home cooked meals.
Leaving town about 0800, it was a steady climb through the hilly city. One that felt safe and relaxed at all times.
Nearing the top of the hill at a gas station we rested whilst I replaced my front brake cable that had frayed.
We were extremely rested and felt good. My peak hat has started to rot after the sweat and sun of a year, it was bought in Uruguay, another was bought at a sports store on the way out of town.
Soon we were getting amongst thinning traffic, the road was strting to level out and in many places going down. At Nyamata we stopped at the Church memorial there where in two days 10000 people were massacred inside and around the church.
We got an in depth commentary at the deeply moving display. There were the clothes of those who died on the pews and many skulls of those attacked with machetes.
Ironically most of the worlds mass killings have only been called genocides after they have occurred.
This took about an hour to see.
We also stopped for a delicious buffet in Nyamata.
They are best at lunchtime.
From here we turned left in about 20km to take the Lac Sake road that would take us east to Kibungo and back to the main road south to Tanzania.
As soon as we turned the road became dirt. It was smooth and dusty, though good riding.
It was nice to be back on the dirt strangely enough. The locals were very friendly and not asking for money to much.
We had planned to stay at Gashora, but on arrival found no lodges. We stopped at a market and bought some fruit. A delicious pineapple was consumed outside on the street infront of a huge inquisitive audience.
This town has a large reception camp for refugees of Burundi who are fleeing the regime there.
Many people spoken to were from the camp.
We followed the road down to a hotel, on arrival at the boom gate on the track, it was found to be to expensive, it was on the shores of the lake.
Leaving town, now in the late afternoon, we dropped down into a huge swamp area. Our drink bottles were topped up at a stream flowing beneath the road. The lcals said we could drink it.
The road was like a levee dividing the swamp. One side was being drained for new farmers to grow rice and the other was in its natural state. To our left were huge drains running off into the distance to let the waters flow away, they were then pumped into the natural swamp across the road. There were people living in small grass huts on this newly arable land.
On the natural side of the swamp people were in dugout canoes hunting and gathering as they may have done for centuries.
The road was busy with pedestrians and cyclists. It was a relaxing place to be in the calming light of the afternoon, everything had a yellowish hue.
We crossed a brown torrent on the other side of the flat wet land.
It was Saturday evening and the villagers were out in the evening light infront of their homes. The people were so friendly and happy it was one greeting after another.
We stopped as thefiery red sun was falling below the horizon. Avocadoes were enjoying. All of us were tiring now, it was a big day, we still had 10km to go to Lac Sake village.
People were out and about everywhere, the balmy temperature added to the festive feel of it all. A guy on a taxi bike joined us for a few km, he was a real character, had music playing on his bike and was full of enthusiasm.
These taxis bikes are everywhere in Rwanda. The woman ride the rear padded seat side saddle.
These bikes are so African and the pose they put people in as they ride them is even moreso Africn. I have noticaed that almost all riders have the seats to hight. At the bottom of the pedal stroke many only just reach the pedal with the balls of their feet. Many are in poor repair. Much of the time when following these bikes, the rear wheels have some buckle in them. Many here are manufactured in India.
However some are in very good repair and are seen racing down the hills. One trio on a bike passed us at a crazy speed down a hill.
By now it was dark, as we entered the spread out village of Lac Sake.
We came across a health clinic on the left. Pulling in here we asked if we could camp the night.
Manuel the head nurse said it was ok.
We were so relieved to have found a safe place to put up our tents for the night .
This clinic was on large grounds and is partly financed by USAID. They see 100 people a day with malaria, complicated cases are referred to the hospital, otherwise they are treated here with Coartem and other drugs.
Mothers come here to give birth also.
At night we used the toilets inside, there were woman asleep all over the floor. The sad sound of sick babies was also heard.
A great pasta was enjoyed for dinner. The sauce we fry up in the pan is absolutely delicious. It consists of garlic, ginger, chilli, capsicum, onions, tomatoes, soya meat chunks, salt and pepper with tomato paste.
This is added to the pasta on the plate.
The mosquitoes were everywhere, though sleeping in our tents ensures we are not bitten during the night.
It is easy to eradicate them all in such a small space .
19/7/2015 Lac Sake to Kirehe
D70, T5.3 Av12.76 , max62, 43,169 8,126
Clear warm day, sou easter blowing , hot early afternoon
We all had a great nights sleep, Manuel came over in the morning to say hi,
Many people stood around and watched as we ate and packed.
We thanked Manuel for having us. He was a great guy and spoke enough English for us to converse with him. Like most places he had tank water here but it could not be drunk, only to be used for cooing or boiled before drinking.
Out on the road another fine day was ahead of us. The thought of rain is not on our minds now, the dry season is upon us. To date here in Africa my raincoat was only worn in Egypt to keep warm and twice on the road to stay dry. Our extra time in Ethiopia ensured we were not riding during the wet season in Kenya and Uganda.
Being Sunday the locals were well dressed and many were going to church.
Their friendliness was overwhelming, the people on this road were spirit lifting with their greetings. Bonjour, hello, salam, all these greetings were heard. I often say salam to the muslim people, they love it.
The dry dirt road had some steep climbs and descents over very roaky terrain.
Ourselves and the bikes were covered in dust. Without showering facilities I always put water in my Ortlieb bowl and use my bar towel to wash the days dirt off me. That is if we have enough water available.
There were a few drunks abut as usual, though they were harmless.
In one village on the road, I got my peak hat sown up at a small clothing repair shop. There are many of these small shops about. Many Rwandans are clothed in good quality second hand clothes from the USA. At markets they sell many of these clothes. The telltale smell of the chemical they are washed in gives away their presence. Shoes also come from here.
Some of the slogans on the shirts people wear are so amusing, one guy yesterday had a shirt noting that he was a high roller and another that Simon the rat is mean to nuns and small children.
We passed another more established drained wetland that was a mas of rice paddies. They were harvesting rice right now,.
We had a 15km ride down to this valley area. Cal and I are always having freewheeling races down the hills together. We crouch low to reduce resistence and go for it. Each of us usually passes one another after we have been draughting each other. It is great fun.
It is a real rush flying down a smooth curvy road at 60km/hr on a loaded touring bike, with the wind in your face letting gravity propel you.
At Kibungo, we stopped for a buffet at a pub. Whenever possible we are stopping for cold sodas. Again avocados were bought, at 25 to 40c each they are a large part of our diet.
Back on the main road, a few trucks were hauling fuel and other goods in transit from Tanzania.
Villages were close together, Everytime we stopped a large number of friendly people would gather.
People enjoy it when the boys tell them that I am their dad. It really is so unreal to be riding with the guys.
I never forget how lucky I am to have to great gifts, that of good health and that of freedom and to have my two sons sharing this adventure with me caps it all off.
Another big day was in the making, again we could not find a place to stay and camping was not on due to the number of people about.
We still had another hour to go to Kihehe where there were guesthouses. Most of this was uphill.
At times like these, one must be positive, draw on all physical reserves and have your mind in the right place.
At 1830 we got to Kihehe and booked the first guesthouse.
We got showered with buckets and headed out for a meal. The eatery was a little room with two lovely woman cooking. It was full of people, we were lucky to get a seat. The meals were $1, which was beans, fries, plantain and peanuts sauce with greens, the food was delicious, we sat next to two guys from World vision who were in charge of water and sanitation at another camp near here for Burundian refugees.
20/7/2015 Kirehe, Rwanda to Nyakasanza
D45, T3 Av13.76 , max70, 43,214 8,171
Clear warm day, sou easter blowing , hot and dry air early afternoon
We decidedto havea bit of a sleep in. Unfortunely, the beds were like hammocks and neither of us sleep to well due to their uncomfortableness.
In town we stopped for chapatti and tea.
From here, the road descended then got into rolling hills that are so Rwandan. In a short time we were making the final descent down to the Kagera river and the border with Tanzania. We stopped for our final meal in Rwanda and got our leftover Fancs changed into shillings at the rate of 26.50.
We then got stamped out of Rwanda crossed the bridge at the Musumo Falls, not before taking a pic on the structure.
At the Tanzanian immigration we met two overland couples who lived in Kenya. They knew all the people we spent time with up in around Laikipia.
Our visas were issued within 20 minutes. Again, they would not take my old US bills.
Once through immigration it was a steep climb out of the river valley. This border is a busy entry point for goods being trucked from Dar es Salaam to Burundi.
Once out of the valley a rapid descent was upon us. The roads here are quite dangerous at speed as there are pot holes at the most unexpected places.
From here there was a huge climb back up again. The road aheadcould be seen miles away at the top of the horizon. We have not seen these vistas for some time.
Most noticeable ids the lack of people on the roadside, it is great just having the peace out here. Camping spots are everywhere.
The air is dry and the countryside has been recently burnt, just small trees ans black chars of grass are present.
Water is now going to be an issue with reasonable distances between towns.
At the top of the climb we could see the outskirts of Nyakasanza ahead. We loaded up with water from people on the roadside that had hoses from an underground water source.
In town there were trucks everywhere on the side of the road and any other place they could park.
We stopped at a shelter serving food and had chips, goat, rice and greens. Things are a little cheaper here.
We then found some sim cards for our phones and looked for a room at the San Siro guesthouse. The rooms were big and clean. Being so dry and hot here there were no mosquitoes about for a change.
We ate back at the same place.
Also noticeable is the lack of fresh fruit and veges.
D87, T5.42 Av15 , max67, 43,099 8,056
Clear warm day, sou easter blowing , comfortable
Our last day in Kigali was really spent to rest my leg up a lttle more. We visited the Kigali Memorial, dedicated to those who were murdered in the 1994 genocide of the Tutsis. The video presentation left me emotionally disturbed and in tears. It took awhile to compose myself before leaving the theatrette.
I needed a new cable for my front brakes. There are a number ofbikes shops just behind the taxi park at Nybugogo. They are pretty basic but have lots of scond hand parts. Ben got a new mount for his seat.
My room at the Mont Kigali hotel had rats in it, they enjoyed my avocados and tomatoes, I talked the manager into giving me a discount because of this.
He obliged.
We ate each night over at the taxi park in the same restaurant that had great natural yoghurt and home cooked meals.
Leaving town about 0800, it was a steady climb through the hilly city. One that felt safe and relaxed at all times.
Nearing the top of the hill at a gas station we rested whilst I replaced my front brake cable that had frayed.
We were extremely rested and felt good. My peak hat has started to rot after the sweat and sun of a year, it was bought in Uruguay, another was bought at a sports store on the way out of town.
Soon we were getting amongst thinning traffic, the road was strting to level out and in many places going down. At Nyamata we stopped at the Church memorial there where in two days 10000 people were massacred inside and around the church.
We got an in depth commentary at the deeply moving display. There were the clothes of those who died on the pews and many skulls of those attacked with machetes.
Ironically most of the worlds mass killings have only been called genocides after they have occurred.
This took about an hour to see.
We also stopped for a delicious buffet in Nyamata.
They are best at lunchtime.
From here we turned left in about 20km to take the Lac Sake road that would take us east to Kibungo and back to the main road south to Tanzania.
As soon as we turned the road became dirt. It was smooth and dusty, though good riding.
It was nice to be back on the dirt strangely enough. The locals were very friendly and not asking for money to much.
We had planned to stay at Gashora, but on arrival found no lodges. We stopped at a market and bought some fruit. A delicious pineapple was consumed outside on the street infront of a huge inquisitive audience.
This town has a large reception camp for refugees of Burundi who are fleeing the regime there.
Many people spoken to were from the camp.
We followed the road down to a hotel, on arrival at the boom gate on the track, it was found to be to expensive, it was on the shores of the lake.
Leaving town, now in the late afternoon, we dropped down into a huge swamp area. Our drink bottles were topped up at a stream flowing beneath the road. The lcals said we could drink it.
The road was like a levee dividing the swamp. One side was being drained for new farmers to grow rice and the other was in its natural state. To our left were huge drains running off into the distance to let the waters flow away, they were then pumped into the natural swamp across the road. There were people living in small grass huts on this newly arable land.
On the natural side of the swamp people were in dugout canoes hunting and gathering as they may have done for centuries.
The road was busy with pedestrians and cyclists. It was a relaxing place to be in the calming light of the afternoon, everything had a yellowish hue.
We crossed a brown torrent on the other side of the flat wet land.
It was Saturday evening and the villagers were out in the evening light infront of their homes. The people were so friendly and happy it was one greeting after another.
We stopped as thefiery red sun was falling below the horizon. Avocadoes were enjoying. All of us were tiring now, it was a big day, we still had 10km to go to Lac Sake village.
People were out and about everywhere, the balmy temperature added to the festive feel of it all. A guy on a taxi bike joined us for a few km, he was a real character, had music playing on his bike and was full of enthusiasm.
These taxis bikes are everywhere in Rwanda. The woman ride the rear padded seat side saddle.
These bikes are so African and the pose they put people in as they ride them is even moreso Africn. I have noticaed that almost all riders have the seats to hight. At the bottom of the pedal stroke many only just reach the pedal with the balls of their feet. Many are in poor repair. Much of the time when following these bikes, the rear wheels have some buckle in them. Many here are manufactured in India.
However some are in very good repair and are seen racing down the hills. One trio on a bike passed us at a crazy speed down a hill.
By now it was dark, as we entered the spread out village of Lac Sake.
We came across a health clinic on the left. Pulling in here we asked if we could camp the night.
Manuel the head nurse said it was ok.
We were so relieved to have found a safe place to put up our tents for the night .
This clinic was on large grounds and is partly financed by USAID. They see 100 people a day with malaria, complicated cases are referred to the hospital, otherwise they are treated here with Coartem and other drugs.
Mothers come here to give birth also.
At night we used the toilets inside, there were woman asleep all over the floor. The sad sound of sick babies was also heard.
A great pasta was enjoyed for dinner. The sauce we fry up in the pan is absolutely delicious. It consists of garlic, ginger, chilli, capsicum, onions, tomatoes, soya meat chunks, salt and pepper with tomato paste.
This is added to the pasta on the plate.
The mosquitoes were everywhere, though sleeping in our tents ensures we are not bitten during the night.
It is easy to eradicate them all in such a small space .
19/7/2015 Lac Sake to Kirehe
D70, T5.3 Av12.76 , max62, 43,169 8,126
Clear warm day, sou easter blowing , hot early afternoon
We all had a great nights sleep, Manuel came over in the morning to say hi,
Many people stood around and watched as we ate and packed.
We thanked Manuel for having us. He was a great guy and spoke enough English for us to converse with him. Like most places he had tank water here but it could not be drunk, only to be used for cooing or boiled before drinking.
Out on the road another fine day was ahead of us. The thought of rain is not on our minds now, the dry season is upon us. To date here in Africa my raincoat was only worn in Egypt to keep warm and twice on the road to stay dry. Our extra time in Ethiopia ensured we were not riding during the wet season in Kenya and Uganda.
Being Sunday the locals were well dressed and many were going to church.
Their friendliness was overwhelming, the people on this road were spirit lifting with their greetings. Bonjour, hello, salam, all these greetings were heard. I often say salam to the muslim people, they love it.
The dry dirt road had some steep climbs and descents over very roaky terrain.
Ourselves and the bikes were covered in dust. Without showering facilities I always put water in my Ortlieb bowl and use my bar towel to wash the days dirt off me. That is if we have enough water available.
There were a few drunks abut as usual, though they were harmless.
In one village on the road, I got my peak hat sown up at a small clothing repair shop. There are many of these small shops about. Many Rwandans are clothed in good quality second hand clothes from the USA. At markets they sell many of these clothes. The telltale smell of the chemical they are washed in gives away their presence. Shoes also come from here.
Some of the slogans on the shirts people wear are so amusing, one guy yesterday had a shirt noting that he was a high roller and another that Simon the rat is mean to nuns and small children.
We passed another more established drained wetland that was a mas of rice paddies. They were harvesting rice right now,.
We had a 15km ride down to this valley area. Cal and I are always having freewheeling races down the hills together. We crouch low to reduce resistence and go for it. Each of us usually passes one another after we have been draughting each other. It is great fun.
It is a real rush flying down a smooth curvy road at 60km/hr on a loaded touring bike, with the wind in your face letting gravity propel you.
At Kibungo, we stopped for a buffet at a pub. Whenever possible we are stopping for cold sodas. Again avocados were bought, at 25 to 40c each they are a large part of our diet.
Back on the main road, a few trucks were hauling fuel and other goods in transit from Tanzania.
Villages were close together, Everytime we stopped a large number of friendly people would gather.
People enjoy it when the boys tell them that I am their dad. It really is so unreal to be riding with the guys.
I never forget how lucky I am to have to great gifts, that of good health and that of freedom and to have my two sons sharing this adventure with me caps it all off.
Another big day was in the making, again we could not find a place to stay and camping was not on due to the number of people about.
We still had another hour to go to Kihehe where there were guesthouses. Most of this was uphill.
At times like these, one must be positive, draw on all physical reserves and have your mind in the right place.
At 1830 we got to Kihehe and booked the first guesthouse.
We got showered with buckets and headed out for a meal. The eatery was a little room with two lovely woman cooking. It was full of people, we were lucky to get a seat. The meals were $1, which was beans, fries, plantain and peanuts sauce with greens, the food was delicious, we sat next to two guys from World vision who were in charge of water and sanitation at another camp near here for Burundian refugees.
20/7/2015 Kirehe, Rwanda to Nyakasanza
D45, T3 Av13.76 , max70, 43,214 8,171
Clear warm day, sou easter blowing , hot and dry air early afternoon
We decidedto havea bit of a sleep in. Unfortunely, the beds were like hammocks and neither of us sleep to well due to their uncomfortableness.
In town we stopped for chapatti and tea.
From here, the road descended then got into rolling hills that are so Rwandan. In a short time we were making the final descent down to the Kagera river and the border with Tanzania. We stopped for our final meal in Rwanda and got our leftover Fancs changed into shillings at the rate of 26.50.
We then got stamped out of Rwanda crossed the bridge at the Musumo Falls, not before taking a pic on the structure.
At the Tanzanian immigration we met two overland couples who lived in Kenya. They knew all the people we spent time with up in around Laikipia.
Our visas were issued within 20 minutes. Again, they would not take my old US bills.
Once through immigration it was a steep climb out of the river valley. This border is a busy entry point for goods being trucked from Dar es Salaam to Burundi.
Once out of the valley a rapid descent was upon us. The roads here are quite dangerous at speed as there are pot holes at the most unexpected places.
From here there was a huge climb back up again. The road aheadcould be seen miles away at the top of the horizon. We have not seen these vistas for some time.
Most noticeable ids the lack of people on the roadside, it is great just having the peace out here. Camping spots are everywhere.
The air is dry and the countryside has been recently burnt, just small trees ans black chars of grass are present.
Water is now going to be an issue with reasonable distances between towns.
At the top of the climb we could see the outskirts of Nyakasanza ahead. We loaded up with water from people on the roadside that had hoses from an underground water source.
In town there were trucks everywhere on the side of the road and any other place they could park.
We stopped at a shelter serving food and had chips, goat, rice and greens. Things are a little cheaper here.
We then found some sim cards for our phones and looked for a room at the San Siro guesthouse. The rooms were big and clean. Being so dry and hot here there were no mosquitoes about for a change.
We ate back at the same place.
Also noticeable is the lack of fresh fruit and veges.
Back in open country, Tanzania.
