Keithsberg,IL to Fort Madison,IA, 23/7/11
90km, 4.75hrs, 19.32 av, Total 3091. Still pathetically hot, some relief and a drenching recieved at 1900hrs in Fort Madison
The prvorbial air bed plug came out during the night, needless to say concrete is not the most desirable surfaaces to finish off a night in the nest upon. Getting up was not an issue for contemplation.
Five thirty saw me up and about, all washing dry, feeling great, I utilised the available AC outlet and spent till about 1030hrs catching up on the past couple of days.
The towns here in Illinois are small and incredibly local in the nature. So far on my travels the food has been so good, these small diners have just the best home cooked food and the salad bars when encountered have been like turning up on all fours to a water hole in the desert. Eating to much can be an issue.
To date I have frequented fast food premises three times, a far cry from dining with the family in Anaheim many moons ago.. MacDonalds has more than once been visited just to access the net. As will be the case today.
This food is the kind of stuff you cant even get at home unless it,s coming from your own kitchen, I know I rave, but believe me when you can access the salad bar for $1.50 and eat all you can, it would take a man without a conscience or further money to depart without leaving a tip.
I drench myself under the bore and moved on, roads though without shoulders were very quiet and realitively flat to slightly indulating.
My rear pannier hooks were shitting me, the inserts kept coming out, seeing a marine shop in the middle of nowhere, pulling in and explaining my frustation the guy gave me a length of rubber hose that would perform the same purpose of the inserts.
Riding shirt off as I do for a couple of hours each day, the apparent and light westerly wind were keeping me in a state that was just bearable. Stopping in the shade of a roadside tree on occassions, I realised just how hot I was, the sweat would just flow out and my body felt like it was on fire. However now getting used to this and without any cries from the bod for help I felt I was coping with these conditions .The only time it was dodgey was after a steak on the way to Loud Thunder park. On this accassion I probably at to much for the conditions. Getting the big call from just above the bike seat a hasty retreat into the scrub was made with the results in a state of much liquidity. I thought the steak and veges might have been dodgey. That night at camp I was sure I was going to repeat things from the mouth, I slept with the tent open for a quick exit. This kind of moisture in the palace was not an option.
Stopping in Lomax at the Pink Bar for a few Sprites, a great chat was had with a guy and his girl, the accents are unreal here, so strong. It’s just great hearing people talking like this.
Across the road some guys were selling new season corn, being in the US corn belt leaving here without a cob or two, the first of the season would be like not eating salmon in Alaska. We yarned and one of the guys was a sailor, so we swapped a few stories, they gave me a couple of cobs and I braved the heat again.
Every stop involves getting iced water for the next portion of the days ride, everyone is great in this respect.
I must make a correction here that earlier it was mentioned that IL had 585 miles of cycle tracks, my mistake, not all tracks, infact the next part of the trip on US34 was bloody dodgey, no shoulder, at least a 100mm drop off to the gravel beyond the white line and semis like flies on a dead sheep.
I have become bloody good at keeping a dead straight line of foward movement, all was ok till a semi and oncoming vehicle met. Room for me came a lowly third.
I had the ipod on figuring what you dont know can’t hurt you. I will go on to say that all vehicles were really courteous, all local told me have been going to duplicate this road for 30 years, this coming from bureaucrats does not surprise me.
Having survived this ordeal I turned off this highway and had a 9 mile dead straight road toLomax. Psycologically it was hard work as the road could be seen for miles ahead.
Stopping in Lomax at the Pink Bar for a few Sprites, a great chat was had with a guy and his girl, the accents are unreal here, so strong. It’s unreal hearing people talking like this. It’s an accent heard in so many movies, most often not by those in the leading role .
Across the road some guys were selling new season corn, being in the US corn belt leaving here without a cob or two, the first of the season would be like not eating salmon in Alaska. We yarned, one of the guys was a sailor, so we swapped a few stories, they gave me a couple of cobs and I braved the heat again. They informed me that the Mormans were having a big do at Nauvoo up the road .This is prime morman territory.
Arriving in Niota, some 15m north of Nauvoo, the option was taken to cross the draw bridge to Fort Madison in Iowa, (8000 bods). Finding one rear pannier was hanging from a single hook I pulled up under a tree on the main street, annoyed I decided to eliminate this problemand installed the hose for both rear panniers.
Thunder was among the many background noises. Across the road trains were swapping tracks, one went through with three huge locomotives in front, this was one hell of a train, it tooks forever to pass on by.
I decided to stay here Pulling into a servo I got a phone book and rang a few motels. Most were booked. By now a storm was brewing big time.
The rain which eventually came with it, in no small quantities was such a welcome. I found a motel . The Mericana, $50/night. When having a tent on board and the ability to find a bed anywhere, forking out for accommodation is almost criminal. A free night in the tent means total culinary freedom during the day.
I rode to the motel in torrential rain with a smile on my face, having only just spoken to the only two guys in Fort Madison who didn’t want, they were half way through installing a roof.
Booking in with the Indian owner, a common thread in this cheap accommodation, I showered and had a few beers at the bar.
There were some characters in the motel, a few permanents. Howard from Orlando came and had a yarn, such a funny black guy. Bob another guy about 38 and I were stirring each other. I was in a laid back, stirring mood. He came up with a classic, saying, “you don’t know everything cause you’re only on a bike”! We both cracked up. He was an ex marine, nice guy, he was holed up here due to a domestic with his wife .
Just a note, I’ve just had brekky, 4 coffees, 2 waters, 2 slices toast, superb BLT and beef, vege soup, all for $7.12c. with unreal service.
I had had 1 burger, small fries and drink at Burger king late last night for $5.90. It was shit, it’s amazing what we put up with for convenience. This was one of those few visits .
90km, 4.75hrs, 19.32 av, Total 3091. Still pathetically hot, some relief and a drenching recieved at 1900hrs in Fort Madison
The prvorbial air bed plug came out during the night, needless to say concrete is not the most desirable surfaaces to finish off a night in the nest upon. Getting up was not an issue for contemplation.
Five thirty saw me up and about, all washing dry, feeling great, I utilised the available AC outlet and spent till about 1030hrs catching up on the past couple of days.
The towns here in Illinois are small and incredibly local in the nature. So far on my travels the food has been so good, these small diners have just the best home cooked food and the salad bars when encountered have been like turning up on all fours to a water hole in the desert. Eating to much can be an issue.
To date I have frequented fast food premises three times, a far cry from dining with the family in Anaheim many moons ago.. MacDonalds has more than once been visited just to access the net. As will be the case today.
This food is the kind of stuff you cant even get at home unless it,s coming from your own kitchen, I know I rave, but believe me when you can access the salad bar for $1.50 and eat all you can, it would take a man without a conscience or further money to depart without leaving a tip.
I drench myself under the bore and moved on, roads though without shoulders were very quiet and realitively flat to slightly indulating.
My rear pannier hooks were shitting me, the inserts kept coming out, seeing a marine shop in the middle of nowhere, pulling in and explaining my frustation the guy gave me a length of rubber hose that would perform the same purpose of the inserts.
Riding shirt off as I do for a couple of hours each day, the apparent and light westerly wind were keeping me in a state that was just bearable. Stopping in the shade of a roadside tree on occassions, I realised just how hot I was, the sweat would just flow out and my body felt like it was on fire. However now getting used to this and without any cries from the bod for help I felt I was coping with these conditions .The only time it was dodgey was after a steak on the way to Loud Thunder park. On this accassion I probably at to much for the conditions. Getting the big call from just above the bike seat a hasty retreat into the scrub was made with the results in a state of much liquidity. I thought the steak and veges might have been dodgey. That night at camp I was sure I was going to repeat things from the mouth, I slept with the tent open for a quick exit. This kind of moisture in the palace was not an option.
Stopping in Lomax at the Pink Bar for a few Sprites, a great chat was had with a guy and his girl, the accents are unreal here, so strong. It’s just great hearing people talking like this.
Across the road some guys were selling new season corn, being in the US corn belt leaving here without a cob or two, the first of the season would be like not eating salmon in Alaska. We yarned and one of the guys was a sailor, so we swapped a few stories, they gave me a couple of cobs and I braved the heat again.
Every stop involves getting iced water for the next portion of the days ride, everyone is great in this respect.
I must make a correction here that earlier it was mentioned that IL had 585 miles of cycle tracks, my mistake, not all tracks, infact the next part of the trip on US34 was bloody dodgey, no shoulder, at least a 100mm drop off to the gravel beyond the white line and semis like flies on a dead sheep.
I have become bloody good at keeping a dead straight line of foward movement, all was ok till a semi and oncoming vehicle met. Room for me came a lowly third.
I had the ipod on figuring what you dont know can’t hurt you. I will go on to say that all vehicles were really courteous, all local told me have been going to duplicate this road for 30 years, this coming from bureaucrats does not surprise me.
Having survived this ordeal I turned off this highway and had a 9 mile dead straight road toLomax. Psycologically it was hard work as the road could be seen for miles ahead.
Stopping in Lomax at the Pink Bar for a few Sprites, a great chat was had with a guy and his girl, the accents are unreal here, so strong. It’s unreal hearing people talking like this. It’s an accent heard in so many movies, most often not by those in the leading role .
Across the road some guys were selling new season corn, being in the US corn belt leaving here without a cob or two, the first of the season would be like not eating salmon in Alaska. We yarned, one of the guys was a sailor, so we swapped a few stories, they gave me a couple of cobs and I braved the heat again. They informed me that the Mormans were having a big do at Nauvoo up the road .This is prime morman territory.
Arriving in Niota, some 15m north of Nauvoo, the option was taken to cross the draw bridge to Fort Madison in Iowa, (8000 bods). Finding one rear pannier was hanging from a single hook I pulled up under a tree on the main street, annoyed I decided to eliminate this problemand installed the hose for both rear panniers.
Thunder was among the many background noises. Across the road trains were swapping tracks, one went through with three huge locomotives in front, this was one hell of a train, it tooks forever to pass on by.
I decided to stay here Pulling into a servo I got a phone book and rang a few motels. Most were booked. By now a storm was brewing big time.
The rain which eventually came with it, in no small quantities was such a welcome. I found a motel . The Mericana, $50/night. When having a tent on board and the ability to find a bed anywhere, forking out for accommodation is almost criminal. A free night in the tent means total culinary freedom during the day.
I rode to the motel in torrential rain with a smile on my face, having only just spoken to the only two guys in Fort Madison who didn’t want, they were half way through installing a roof.
Booking in with the Indian owner, a common thread in this cheap accommodation, I showered and had a few beers at the bar.
There were some characters in the motel, a few permanents. Howard from Orlando came and had a yarn, such a funny black guy. Bob another guy about 38 and I were stirring each other. I was in a laid back, stirring mood. He came up with a classic, saying, “you don’t know everything cause you’re only on a bike”! We both cracked up. He was an ex marine, nice guy, he was holed up here due to a domestic with his wife .
Just a note, I’ve just had brekky, 4 coffees, 2 waters, 2 slices toast, superb BLT and beef, vege soup, all for $7.12c. with unreal service.
I had had 1 burger, small fries and drink at Burger king late last night for $5.90. It was shit, it’s amazing what we put up with for convenience. This was one of those few visits .