UGANDA
15/6/2015 Busia to Busesa, New Life Guesthouse
D63, T3.3, Av18.07, max47, 41,807 6,856
Fine day
It was so nice to have a full nights sleep without having to get up every few hours to go to the loo.
One point of interest here in Uganda, is that much of the reticulated water is not fit for drinking until boiled or filtered.
We had plenty with us so were right. Again, the scenery was that of a generally flat landscape. Rice fields were common. Much fruit is in season with mango stalls in groups scattered along the highway.
Much of the traffic was matatus and trucks, all were very courteous. There was also a good shoulder, so the road contrary to popular belief was not so dangerous at all. At times, it was even peaceful with Ugandans just going about their business along its edges. We stopped in a village and had just the nicest meal and a lot of fun with the local kids who are well mannered and inquisitive, it takes nothing to get a smile.
Though my diarrhoea has passed, my energy levels were low so at about 1600 we stopped in the small village of Busesa and found the only guesthouse there. It was off the main road and along dirt tracks. It was very clean and tidy. That evening Cal and I went back to the highway and ate many of the beef kebabs, Uganda is well known for. Many of the people selling them have big bundles and mob matatus or trucks as they pull in. We made sure the ones we bought were straight from the charcoal.
We headed back and got Ben and went on to eat dinner. He too enjoyed a few kebabs.
We commented on how easy the riding had been since Getting to Nyahururu, it had been a gentle descent all the way, of course, there were hills in between but nothing like the hills on the way north from Nairobi. Ben is now getting very fit and has lost a lot of weight.
16/6/2015 Busesa to the source of the Nile, near Jinja
D65, T3.46, Av17.47, max50, 41,872 6,921
Fine day, mid afternoon downpour.
We awoke with anticipation of getting to the so called source of the Nile near Jinja. We miss not being able to get mendasi and chai for a second breakfast. I am sure if you look hard enough it could be found but we are not that desperate for the fix.
Riding again was easy with very gentle hills and greenery everywhere. Traffic was now getting busier as we were nearing Kampala. It was still not a safety issue though.
About 1430 we got to the turnoff to Jinja. We decided to go to the campground at the source of the Nile. It was a few km down the main road and then turn right at the roundabout. Just up this road was a fruit and vege market, here we bought potatoes to fry among other fruits.
Further up the road we stopped at a rustic little shed for something to eat. The woman tried to charge far too much. I showed her a photo of what we had bought the day before fore 4000 bob. She immediately dropped the price and we enjoyed the lovely smoked Nile perch with geens and rice.
From here, the road turned to red dirt. A few km on we turned right and went past one campground, the owner said the river was in flood. Trying to get us into his campground.
On arrival, we were stunned at the beauty of the location. We had to man handle our bikes down a grassed hill to a great spot almost on the river with lush green grass.
We set up camp, Cal and I swam, the owner told us there was no problem with catching Bilharzias from parasitic blood flukes, which can infect snails and inturn infect us. He said they only had the large snails.
The evening was mild and almost free of insects we enjoyed a beer over our dinner of pasta and fried potatoes.
The owner told us that things here have changed greatly since the construction of the Nalubaale dam. They watched the river slowly rise over a month at this point and the rapids here slowly disappeared. There were remains of trees mid stream which indicated islands infront of our campsite. The fishermen are happy as the river is now slow moving and easy to navigate as well as providing more fish.
17/6/2015 Source of the Nile to Namawojolo
D59, T3.46, Av15.84, max56, 41,931 6,980
Fine day
It was so pleasant to wake up and look out of my tent and see the huge body of water gently moving by. Clumps of water hyacinth were drifting past. There was a beautiful little red kingfisher on a riverside rock. There were also Herons feeding on fish in the shallows. A shag had caught a nice size fish, for a shag that is. Another shag decided he wanted it and pursued this bird around the river. Both were low level flying. The thief must have been a dominant bird because soon the captor of the dinner dropped it in the water. The thief made off with it undisturbed.
Cal got up and headed in for a swim. The sun came up and soon got very hot. This was great as the tents were drying nicely.
We were in no hurry to leave, I had time to try my luck fishing but with no success. We helped each other push our bikes up the hill out of the camp area.
It was 9km back to the highway. Out here, traffic was busy.
We crossed a dam here. Ben and I stopped to take photos, I kept riding .
Here we met a Korean guy riding, Ken was alone and had started in Addis.
He kept going after we chatted for awhile.
About 20 minutes later up the road there was no sign of Ben. Cal got a text from him to say he had been arrested for taking photos of the dam. We both rode back. On arrival at the other side of the structure on the roadside was Ben with 3 police officers. He told me they wanted 100,000 bob. They had taken him up to a sign reading no photos. None of us had seen this.
This officer was trying to bribe Ben, he had said to make it easy give some money. I was quite annoyed and said to him” Look we will pay the fine but we want a receipt”.
He went on the defensive and said we have to go back to the station where we will be put in a cell. I told him that is Ok we have plenty of time. By now, things were leaning in my favour. I kept saying that we need a receipt.
Soon an army officer came along. We all apologised for taking the photos. The crooked police officer then took Bens camera. Throughout the incident, the other two officers did not say much. The officer came up and asked me for water, he meant money. He wanted this in return for the camera.
The army guy said come with me to the police office across the dam.
The crooked officer had one last go at asking for water. I said no. He would not use the word money.
Once on the dam road the army guy said get going, you are free.
This was a good lesson about dealing with this situation. Always ask for a receipt when someone wants to fine you.
We rode on from here just trying to cover some ground following this dodgey situation.
We stopped for lunch. Further up the road now in some forest, monkeys were seen in many trees. A matatu had broken down and 10 passengers were stranded on the roadside. They borrowed my pliers to try and fix up a damaged radiator hose.
Cal had a spare hose clamp which he gave to them so they could get on their way.
A few km on from here, there was an unfortunate, confused dog in the middle of the road. A matatu was speeding past and hit the animal tossing it around like a rag doll as it was hit by the vehicle. Sadly, its owner was witness to this, he looked quite dismayed after the incident that occurred almost infront of me.
We met Ken again and he rode with us to the village of Namawojolo, where we found a guesthouse for the night.
We did washing and got our tents properly dry.
Dinner consisted of a wander into the village and each of us ate a good mix of street food. The great kebabs of chicken and beef, chapatti and eggs, bbq corn cob and drinks, it was all we needed.
These towns on this busy road have dozens of vendors selling kebabs, fruit and drinks among other things to passengers of matatus and truck drivers. They mob the matatus as the pull up. In no orderly fashion I might add!!
This goes on all night.
The motels here in Uganda are of a good standard, they are clean and have big beds with mostly intact mosquito nets.
My blog is a few days behind, it is hard to document alot of detail when not written nightly or at least bi nightly.
18/6/2015 Namawojolo to Ntinda, Kampala
D43, T2.57 Av14.63, max53, 41,974 7,023
Fine overcast day
We had decided to get on the road by 0700, Ken was going to join us. This was done. I was up early and emailed Pedro. We keep in touch regularly. It is great practice writing in Spanish. He said he is understanding it no problems. That makes me feel good.
Out on the highway it was very busy with a multitude of people walking down the shoulder and matatus running people to Kampala and other places. It was misty and cool. This road though busy has a good shoulder most of the time. The big hazard is dodging people and watching for oncoming motos.
We made good time and stopped at a restaurant for a second breakfast before riding the last 15km into town.
The traffic was fast and the situation was quite dangerous, one had to ride ever so defensively and be super focused on all around, far and near.
Once we knew our way to the Rwandan Embassy, we said goodbye to Ken. He did not need to visit as he already held an East African visa.
It was no problems finding the Embassy, just ask where the Acacia Mall is, or the British high commission.
Once here we did the paperwork, however they wanted a copy of our Ugandan Visas, so the guys got a boda boda and went to get copies. They also banked the $US50 we needed to obtain the visas. The embassy gave us the deposit slips.
So needed was, a photocopy of our passport, Ugandan visa, $US50 and a photo. A letter of intent and to fill out a form.
This takes 72 hrs to process so we have to come back Monday.
Pedro had given me the number of a Warmshowers host in Kampala. I got in touch with Alex and we arranged to meet him later in the day.
We spend the afternoon, at a great little eatery and then on the nature strip at the Acacia Mall.
Ben got his Iphone repaired whilst there.
We shouted ourselves an icecream. This mall is a very popular spot with Mzungus with prices similar to any big city in the world.
Alex phoned and we rode the few km to Ntinda, met him there and he directed us to his house. It was great we had a large tent in the backyard to sleep in .Pedro had slept in the same tent. It will be a great place to spend the weekend.
Alex is very busy with construction of military facilities in West Africa but had time for a good chat before we went to bed.
19-22/6/2015 Ntinda, Kampala, Uganda
Warmshowers host, Alex
Our time here was relaxing to say the least. We would sleep in and read or use the net most mornings. Rain was with us most of the five days. Though, mostly at night. On the Saturday it rained most of the morning, we had no guilt lying in bed until 1000.
Each day we would either hitch hike or catch a Boda Boda (motorcycle ) to town, some 3km away. Kampala is a very hilly city, our location was no exception.
We ate kebabs in town and good meals ate cheap eateries. A large portion of a Jackfruit was also enjoyed. This tastes like some kind of mild candy with a vanilla taste. It left our fingers incredibly sticky. Water would not take it off. A lot of soap was needed, someone told me cooking oil does the job.
Bens birthday was on the Sunday so, we went into town for lunch and took in the movie Jurassic World at the Acacia Mall complex.
This movie has all the time old ingredients, a hero, heroine, villain, love and good vs evil. Very basic plot. It is worth going to see just to watch the heroine escape on foot from a genetically modified T Rex, through the Costa Rican tropical jungle, in a pair of stilettos!! Even the visual effects were on a beaten path, except for the shark meat scene.
All in all, one wonders about the desire for people to escape their reality. It has been the biggest weekend box office success in history I recall.
Don’t lose an ounce of sleep if you never see it!!!
Alex was a great host, he was a busy person, we did not see much of him. So neither of us hot in each other’s way.
The supermarkets here like in Kenya are very well stocked. Nakumatt from Kenya has a presence here. Prices are for the most part very expensive,. Oranges are fifty cents each. Some were bought, originating from Egypt others South Africa.
23/6/2015 Ntinda, Kampala to Mityana
D77, T4.17 Av18.06, max61, 42,052 7,100
Fine overcast day, with a late shower, very humid about 26°C
We were most definitely ready to get back on the road this morning. It had been a great stay at Alex’s place but 5 days was enough.
We were up and ready to leave about 0830. It was dry so that made it easy. It had been a great tent to have spent so much time in.
We said goodbye to Alex and set off. The first 20km to Bulenga was flat and easy riding. Once in this town I went to buy some bananas and found Alexs gate key in my purse. I arranged with a supermarket to keep the key for him to pick it up.
I also slipped 10000 bob in the envelope to shout himself a beer on the way home if he wanted to.
We all felt very fit after such a good break.
Soon the hills started, nothing to steep but just continuous, it actually made for good riding. There were fruit stalls along much of the way.
We bought probably the best Pineapples I have ever eaten. They were sweet and had just been picked. Something about pineapples wasclearnt today. The fresher the leaves look the better they will taste. Old leaves will indicate that glassy look inside.
We also enjoyed a delicious pawpaw.
From here, we got to a turnoff a few km before Mityana, here guys were selling the kebabs to every car and bus that stopped. We bought a couple of beef kebabs each.
Full of energy we rode on. Cal was feeling a bit lustless though.
Before Mityana we stopped and bought a watermelon and cut that up at the fruit stall. It too was so sweet and juicy .
Soon it started to rain, not heavy but just enough to wet the road. On the plus side it cooled us down and was somewhat refreshing,.
It soon petered out further along the road. Once in Mityana, the first hotel was booked. It was great to be on concrete again. The rooms were huge and had a bucket shower set up.
The guys rested. I went and bought some peanuts and just sat outside the hotel and watched life go by whilst washing them down with an icy coke.
I thought to myself how absolutely fantastic it was to have my sons with me. They both threw in their jobs do to this once in a lifetime trip with their dad.
In the big picture, 6mths off their working life is nothing. Not too many sons get to ride Africa for half a year with their dad.
These thoughts left a warm feeling within myself.
Here I was just chewing on a few nuts in the heart of Afica. We are interacting and mixing with the locals everyday, we eat what they eat and stay in their local hotels. It doesn’t seem like something you would describe as a holiday. We are kind of living here for the duration of the journey.
Dinner was enjoyed in the cafe at our hotel. That of rice, beef stew and greens, followed by a punnet of yoghurt from the supermarket.
We all had a hot bucket shower, using water we had boiled in our rooms with the stoves and resistencias.
The traffic on the road today was not busy and like most roads so far in Uganda it had a good shoulder when needed.
24/6/2015 Mityana to Mubende
D84, T4.37 Av18.60, max61, 42,136 7,184
Fine clear day, very humid about 26°C
This road is not what was expected, it is almost tranquil and the hills are not steep. Riding again was the same all surrounded by a lush green landscape.
In the low open valley areas are plants known locally as Mpamujugu. It is incredibly dense and dominates to flora in these valleys. Often there are people with small nurseries on the roadsides in these places selling tube stock.
We stopped in a small village, of which there are numerous along the way. Here we bought yucca chips, they are great and provide lots of energy and taste especially good with salt.
My eating and drinking habits are quite different from home where I do not put salt on any meals, perhaps just a tiny amount on chicken, I most definitely don’t drink coca cola.
Here with all this exercise my body tells me it needs all these things, salt and lots of sugar. Sometimes the urge to eat fruit arises or meat or maybe not. These urges are quite strong. Eating is done to provide energy. Not because it is time to eat. I think back at home all the food we eat and most do little exercise how bad it must be for us. Looking at photos of people my age, friends included, everyone has a layer of the good life on them,. By this I mean full faces and heavy shoulders and arms. This is from all this food with some alcohol, Much of which is metabolised in ones sleep.
The young children on the side of the road come running out from the homes yelling out Mzungu, waving with huge smiles, it is so heart warming. Often there are large groups of school children all in school uniform along the roadside, they always give us a rowdy yet genuine welcome.
Most of the larger towns have people selling these delicious kebabs for 1000 bob. We usually stop for a few beef sticks.
Any vehicle that dares to stop, gets mobbed. We try to buy the ones that are being cooked infront of us. The vendors are often carrying around a fistful and take them back to the bbq to reheat them before they hit the road. Consequently some are over cooked and dry.
On arrival in Mubende we found a guesthouse but the manager was away. We waited and waited and decided to find another. In the meantime we ate. There was a huge covered area where people were cooking the kebabs, bananas and corn over charcoal. The place was thick with a rich smoke smelling delightfully of meat and chicken. We had a great chicken kebab, it was almost a quarter chicken.
I ate at a small eatery below the bbq shed. The big green Link buses would pull in, there were up to fifty traders reaching up to the windows with the kebabs, drinks and other types of food for travellers. We sat just up from one. By the time it crept past us there was all sorts of debris coming out of the windows, everything from wooden sticks to plastic bottles and corn cobs.
There is a pattern of total disregard when it comes to littering in countries where feeding the family, providing shelter and finding work are difficult for many.
Soon we were in the other guesthouse. It had one of the best cold water showers we have had for some time. The refreshing heavy flow of water felt so good. In this climate we can wash our riding clothes on arrival and they are generally dry in the morning .
25/6/2015 Mubende to Kyenjojo (Motels are right at the central roundabout)
D98, T5.30 Av17.50, max63, 42,234 7,282
Fine clear day, very humid about 26°C
We were up early, today was going to be a big day and the terrain again was rolling hills. It was 100km to Kyenjojo. This would be Bens biggest day to date.
We loaded the left over bread and a pineapple and other sandwich filling veges. From the town the road took us down and then back up a gentle slope.
This was the pattern most of the day.
It was some of the best riding done in Africa, the road had a great surface and there was little traffic, except for the green Link buses that were travelling at dangerously fast speeds.
The hills are gentle and time is always made up on the descents on the other side. It is such that my small front cog was only used near the end of the day.
There were all sorts of rural activities on the roadside. People were selling bags of charcoal, thrashing piles of bean pods to extract the beans, fruit stalls and the ever present herders with their small group of animals.
We stopped every 20km, to talk and regroup. At the 60km mark we stopped in some shade for our sandwiches and pineapple. The Avocados we are buying are 25c each and huge. They are so tasty with a mild nutty hint.
It makes just the best butter for our sandwiches. Each time we stop Ben is only about 5-10 minutes behind us. He is really riding well. Importantly we all ride at our own pace. Consequently we are riding alone much of the time. Callum and I are never far apart. He will ride with me sometimes to listen to the music on my speaker.
Riding alone gives us space from each other and is often more peaceful and relaxing.
At the 80km mark, we stopped at a small village and found a shop with 1l bottles of cokes in glass. These were drunk rapidly. As said before Coco Cola is a different drink from glass.
Our bodies were craving sugar.
We stopped further on at a roadside fruit and vege stall. The woman tried to charge us 5000 bob for a slice of melon. She was not worth haggling with, we said goodbye and left. She had a smirky smile on her face. It is always the honest traders further up the road that keep one happy!
A stop was made, in another village where chapatti and honey were enjoyed.
Just prior to this village was a forest reserve. It gave me an idea what all this country must have been like years ago before man cleared it. There were Colubus monkeys in many trees. That was only the ones we saw. The forest was thick and lush with Staghorns in the taller trees and palms growing in the understory and fringes.
Before arriving at Kyenjojo there was one last big climb. Cal and I waited for Ben who was only some 15 minutes behind. We were all worn out.
Finding a guest house was easy. So we settled in quick. Ben wheeled his bike into his room and immediately fell asleep on the Ben. Cal and I both did our chores of washing and showering. I made a cup of coffee.
We all went out for an early meal. Cal and I headed off to buy some yoghurt. It is sold here in sachets and though commercially produced tastes great, especially the vanilla flavour.
I have been unable to publish any of my notes on Uganda because Weebly, my host from the US is not available here.
27/6/2015 Kyenjojo to Fort Portal
D52, T3.30 Av14.77, max53, 42,286 7,344
Heavy morning rain
Our hotel was comfortable, though as usual there is always noise in the early mornings. It rained heavily as we were getting up. We decided to let it stop before leaving.
Much ogf the way was planted in tea, the scenery was breth taking with little traffic on the road. At one point, we came across a troupe of baboons on the roadside. They were very quite and had no guilt about slowing down traffic as they sat on the road. This patch of forest was full of monkeys.
From here the road climbed further until we got up on the tops. Here the scenery was great with tea plantations everywhere.
We stopped at a small village for lunch and had to put up with people wanting us to buy their meals and soda.
They were told that we were the wrong people to be talking to. “try some mzungus driving a car”.
Many were very well manicured with silky oaks growing amongst the tea.
On arrival in Fort portal it was great to see Pedro, he had already booked guest house. It was a comfortable place with nice people.
It was a bucket shower affair but with a bit of boiled water in the bucket it was bearable. The president was in town opening a church for the day. So it was very busy. We had two days relaxing here.
28/6/2015 Fort Portal to Rwimi
D55, T4 Av13.77, max68, 42,341 7,399
Overcast humid day about 27°C
Getting fresh and clean drinking water here in Uganda is sometimes very difficult, we had bought an 18L bottle between us. It is cheap but buying water is not what I like to do.
It is bad from all respects, firstly its need indicates a poor environment, it creates litter and is a drain on resources. Lastly, drinking local water provides antibodies to fight off local bacteria and other things.
It was great to be riding with Pedro again, there was no familiarisation needed. As soon as we left town we were on a gravel road, it was hard packed. There were people everywhere as usual. Many were going to church.
Many had a few bunches of bananas on bikes.
Along here, we turned off to the Mahoma falls. This was nothing more than a walking track, but rideable in almost all parts. We passed one or two crater lakes. The kids told us there were crocodiles in these. They also caught fish in their waters.
It was the first time, we had seen children who were suffering from malnutrition, many had bloated stomachs.
The lakes were picturesque but had very steep inaccessible shores.
Lunch was enjoyed by a small creek in a banana plantation under some shady Eucalypts.
Crossing the small creek below us was a very steep track up the other bank. So as not to strain my lower back I offered the kids who watched us eat some money, for a push they eagerly helped.
I gave them 5000 bob at the top of the hill. They were all excited and ran off, making a great noise back to the village. No doubt to spend it. It told them to share it!.
From here we got back onto the road and stopped at a village Rwankwenzi and had jackfruit. The road was still red dirt but generally downhill. The kids now are quite cheeky and ask for money and bags. One grabbed my gear on the back I stopped and yelled at them they scattered.
Once back on the main road and asphalt we rode on to Rwimi and booked the Corner lodge..
It was as usual clean but had bucket showers the boys shared a double, Pedro and I had a single each. Dinner was down the road across from the cement works.
29/6/2015 Rwimi to Katunguru
D60, T3.23 Av17.65, max50, 42,401 7,459
Overcast humid day about 27°C
We had a good nights sleep, though as usual someone was banging on the gate in the middle of the night. There were a group of guys still obviously drunk from the night before in a room.
The weather is really starting to settle down now. The border ranges with Congo were barely visible in the haze.
The riding was a pleasure, largely downhill though gentle. The morning air had a little freshness about it, which made it even better. We soon got to some markets by the roadside, these were the Mubuku markets. They would have to have been one of the best rural markets ever visited. There was everything available, especially in season fruit. We sat on the roadside eating, avocados, mangoes, bananas, pineapples and fried potato balls. I bought some smoked catfish. It was quite amusing, the vendor told me the price and I said it was a mzungu price. Anyway, all the women around his table wanted fish but would not buy as I was there. They did not want me to see what they paid. We all joked about it. In the end, I paid a price I was happy with.
We all laughed as I walked off and they started buying the fish. From here, we were riding along with the huge savannah of the Queen Elizabeth park to our left and the hazy ranges to our right.
Soon Lake George came into view on our left. The land was vegetated in Acacias and grasses with manyof the branchy succulent trees growing.
Soon we came to another small village with a right hand turn to the Congo via the Rwenzori ranges. It was 38 km to Mpondwe. Whilst resting here, it was noticed my right pedal bearings had come loose this was seen to, the plastic nut on the end required tightening. I use Powergrip pedals.
We stopped to take photos at the equator as usual. Here we met a great couple from Dar es Salaam who took a few photos for us.
Crossing the equator in recent weeks has been a common occurrence, especially around Mount Kenya. I think we are finally now in the southern hemisphere for the rest of the journey, barring the extraordinary.
We got to the small village of Muhokya and found a small hotel for lunch. It was great, we sat under a shady Poincianna and enjoyed matoke, rice and goat meat. There was an audience of well behaved kids and one particular character who was a chat chewer, as usual he asked for money as we left.
We spent an hour here just chatting and relaxing.
Soon we got to the well known Kazinga channel. It did not take long to spot a couple of hippos, they were in the water infront of the fishing huts.
We then hired a boat to take us up the channel to view more animals. It was now about 1800 hours. From the boat we saw many hippo and buffalo in the water together. A carcass of a dead hippo was seen, apparently the males will fight to the death over dominance of a group of females. The locals will eat the meat if they find it soon enough. Sadly, here in the early 2000’s, Anthrax killed many hippos here. They would go onto the land to die.
Once back at the shores we got the bikes, and rode back to the village of Katunguru and stayed at a bar come lodge. It was very rustic and a bit dirty but sufficed. Dinner was enjoyed, just up the road.
My room and no light bulb so some guy came and changed the fitting, also an old padlock had to be smashed of the door. It is a good idea to carry your own padlock for these lodges.
Mosquitos and small flies were everywhere before going to bed. Again, nets were supplied.
30/6/2015 Katunguru to Kishenyi Village, Lake Edward
D59, T4.38 Av12.65, max56, 42,459 7,518
Overcast humid day, light afternoon shower, about 27°C
Pedro and I got up before daylight and wandered off down to the channel, some 700m away down the road in the hope of seeing some hippos returning to the water. Interestingly they feed all night on land eating grass, then return to the safety of the water for before daylight. As soon as we got there, two were wandering very slowly back to the water in amongst the huts. We were told the safest way to approach them is with a torch making a noise. Trying not to get yourself between a hippo and the water.
We also saw buffalo feeding in the early morning.
Fishermaen were already on the water setting nets.
Back at the lodge, we had a leisurely breakfast and headed off about 0930. I bought a smoked catfish for lunch.
Once across the channel it was a few kilometers to the turnoff to the gravel road and onto the village of Kazinga, after some 16km we turned off to the right.
All along this road were signs of elephants, fresh broken tree limbs and manure.
We did not see any though.
The roadside was covered in small yellow and white butterflies. Thousands of them.
Once in the village located at the western end of the channel, we met the chairman of the village, he said we could camp there. As an hour passed we were shown where to camp. Then another man came up and said that they had rung the park headquarters and they had said we needed to return to pay them to stay the night. We were bitterly disappointed but had no choice but to leave. We asked if we could just have lunch first, that was fine.
Whilst doing so we saw elephants grazing in the close distance. One was a huge bull.
The location was magic overlooking Lake Edward. So, we had to back track. Once back at the turnoff we turned right and continued on to the shore side village of Kishenyi.
Along the way, we saw at least 10 elephants grazing leisurely in the chest high grasses.
Waterbuck were also seen.
Cal was suffering from his persistent headache all day. We were now beginning to think it could have been mild malaria.
A good shower of rain had fallen up head of us. Luckily we avoided it.
Coming to asphalt signified the approach to the village. We rode into the single street community. The road went straight down to the lake. Down here were numerous wooden long boats.
There were also hippo out in the water. We were told, it was not safe to camp outdoors here because of the wildlife. We visited the chairman, and he said we could stay here.
Later, after signing in the police visitors book we met the catholic minister who said we could stay in the church for the night.
We hung about to 1800 to get this organised. It was great we had the concrete church to ourselves. We pitched our tents inside the large building. Ben hung a mosquito net for an exposed roof truss. Cal was feeling pretty bad by now having had a headache all day.
The village had solar power and a great fresh water supply from the ground. We filled all our bottles and bladders here.
Pedro, Ben and I went out to see if we could find a place to eat. We found a little hut that served beans and chapatti. We stopped for a fresh cooked chapatti and eggs on the way back to the church.
In the early evening there were Warthogs just casually feeding on the grasses in the village amongst goats.
Cal managed to eat some of the beans.
During the night, having to get up to go to the toilet, there were dozens of Water Buck just feeding and sitting on the grass around the building. We were very lucky to be here in this refuge. Camping is just not safe with hippos about on land at night. Also, elephants visited the village during the evening.
Before going to bed, we opened all the windows in the church to get some air movement in the clammy night air.
1/7/2015 Kishenyi Village, Lake Edward all day
Fine with a cool lake breeze
It had been a great place to sleep for the night, the flowing air had kept it comfortable.
Pedro and I were up early before daylight and wandered down to the lake. Here we were besieged by thousands of small flies, they were so thick we could hardly see in the pre dawn light.
Hippo were seen at close quarters wandering back to the lake, as we approached they would speed up to a jog as they got closer to the water.
They make the pilgrimage back just before you can see clearly. Hence, it is very difficult to get a good photo with basic camera gear.
On arrival back at the church, Cal still had his headache. We were beginning to get a little worried now. This is one of the first symptoms of malaria. However, he had no other symptoms common to malaria. We had earlier thought he may have just been dehydrated. Cal said he had been drinking all day.
So we waited this morning till the clinic opened and Cal took the Malaria test given by the local doctor here who was a very helpful man. The little indicator only showed one line. We were relieved he did not show up positive to malaria. The doctor gave him Panadol and Lumartem, a generic of Coartem.
We decided to stop here another day to try and give Cal time to get back to normal and get rid of his headache.
2/7/2015 Kishenyi Village, Lake Edward to Kihihi
D64, T4.50 Av13.15, max40, 42,523 7,582
Overcast humid day, light afternoon storm, about 27°C
Our time here in the village was for us rather unique. We saw a variety of animals. A crested crane was seen in the paddock behind the village. This beautiful bird is the national emblem of Uganda.
Seeing the hippos feeding in the grass next to houses on the full moon was quite unbelievable. We could hear them pulling at the grass.
Cals headache has disappeared, we think it could be a coffee withdrawal symptom. After all, he did manage a coffee shop.
We left a small donation with the pastor and went down to the village to have chapatti and egg before leaving.
The road from here was flat with quartz gravel on the surface. The country was still open with Acacia and other trees scattered. We saw a few antelope in the long grasses. We approached a fast flowing stream of brown water. Here I stopped and stripped off and had a good wash and cleaned all the clothes I was wearing. They were soon dry in the hot air. The guys just had a rest.
Much of the traffic on the road was tourists in safari wagons with either high seats or an open roof.
One couple showed us some photos of climbing lions for which this area is famous. We stopped under the only shade we could find and had lunch about 1400. We had a good rest and used the billy to cook noodles and Soya meat.
Soon we came to the turn off to Kihihi, this was a left turn, going straight ahead would have taken us to the Congo.
The number of people on the roadside increased as we got closer to the village. A stop was made at a community well to fill up all our water containers. Some guys gave Pedro and I mangoes freshly picked from a tree. The season here is nearing its end. They were small and over ripe.
Once in the village we didn’t take long to find a lodge. Here washing was done and chips and kebabs were enjoyed on the street for dinner.
Most of my batteries were flat so this was a major priority, getting them recharged.
People here are characters, they will just come to the door of your hotel room and just stand there and look what you are doing.
After a while you get used to this.
3/7/2015 Kihihi to Tea shed near Butagota
D29, T2.20 Av12.40, max51, 42,5552 7,611
Overcast humid day, heavy afternoon storm, about 27°C
The guesthouse had been comfortable and we were a bit late getting away. The town had a well stocked supermarket. There was also a Stanbic ATM here. I withdrew 250,000 bob to get me to the border.
The heavy rain last evening had left the red dirt road damp but very smooth. Some 3km from town my rear wheel was making a noise going downhill under brakes. An inspection revealed a broken spoke on the cassette side. It was the thinner spoke that had been fitted. It was a case of “something is only as strong as its weakest part”.
I stopped and wheeled the bike under a tree, took everything off and proceeded to replace it and true the wheel. The guys had been told by moto riders that I had a breakdown. Once it was repaired, I found them waiting just a few hundred metres up the road over a rise.
The country is so lush and productive, green is the predominant colour as usual. It was rolling hills again all day on the gravel road.
Tea plantations were common as were bananas and Eucalypt trees. A stop was made in one of the numerous villages along the way. A boy here was riding one of these huge robust wooden scooters that they use to carry almost anything.
We were quite worn out about 1400 and stopped in a village to try and find a place to stay. It had started raining. Anyway nothing really suitable was found. We were stocked up to camp so rode on when the rain had ceased.
Along the way were shelters for the tea harvesters to spread out the harvested leaves. We stopped at one of these. As Ben pulled in his seat fell off his bike. The bolt connecting to the seat post had sheared.
Upon inspection, it was revealed we needed another. None of us had spare bolts this big. You just don’t expect these to break.
He made three trips back to Butagota to get a couple of bolts and cut them to length.
There was a gathering of school children under the shelter. They were great fun, we gave them a good English lesson and they us a Luganda lesson.
The girls as usual are always shy when it comes to having their photos taken, not so the guys.
There was another down pour. A bolt of lightning and the resultant thunder nearly knocked the shelter over it was so close. We all got a huge fright.
After dark the kids all moved on and we set up our tents. A great pasta was made. We fry onions, garlic, capsicum, tomatoes and soya meat in the pan then add the tomato paste. This spicy sauces then added to the pasta. 500gms adequately feeds the four of us.
Our dishes were done in the roadside grass that had a small puddle in it.
A man and his daughter also stopped by and left us a stalk of sugar cane.
It was great to be camped under a shelter. The earth floor was raised so as to stop water running inside.
4/7/2015 Tea shed near Butagota to Ruhija
D38, T4.50 Av8.47, max51, 42,590 7,649
Overcast cool humid day, about 22°C on tops
Knowing we had a big climb all day we were up before dawn and ready to leave by 0730.
Even before we left there were tea pickers coming to drop off the leaves they had picked.
Bens seat had been successfully repaired so he was happy. As soon as we got on the red dirt road the climbing began. Soon the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest Park was on our right. This area is home to the gorillas. Though, at $650 to trek in to see them, it was beyond our budgets.
On the steepest of hillsides are tea plantations, many people greeted us from above the road, sometimes it took awhile to work out where the sound was coming from.
The riding was superb amongst the lush forest. Monkeys were seen on many occasions. Ben and Cal bought some ink drawings of gorillas off some young boys, who were really quite talented.
At the bottom of a small descent, we stopped to rest at a pristine creek.
Looking at the heavy forest, one could just imagine gorillas living here.
Avocados have become a favourite with all of us. They are about 45c each and are huge. I am eating at least two a day. Ben is eating more. We add lemon juice when they can be bought.
The climbing continued all day, we were all tiring. The shade of the trees offered some respite. A stop was made at one small village here roasted peanuts were bought with avocados and bananas.
A good break for lunch was enjoyed below a little school on a hilltop called the Gorilla Neighbours School. Some young boys gathered to watch us. They had chameleons on sticks, similar to the children further back on the road. There was a small stand of Eucalypts adjacent to us. These boys had no problems climbing up the trunks often to 15m or more to break off dead branches.
From here it just kept going up, some places the road just became a track. The views were now expansive, we were at 2200m.
Many of the children on the roadside were asking for money, they see quite a few tourists here, who come to see the gorillas.
At 1700 hours we got to the turn off to Rujija, this was just a dirt track. During the last part of the day, I was feeling totally wasted. Some parts of the road had bed rock on the surface. Riding over this was most difficult and involved some particularly steep sections.
We were all very happy to have reached the village . The prices of the few places we checked initially, revealed its status as a touristy place.
The main street of the small village was on the side of a ridge, it was like riding into a movieset of a cowboy movie. Each little shop was a free standing wooden building .
We finally found lodgings at the Ruhija Gorilla Friends Resort Campsite.
It was cold up here with a strong wind blowing, however the skies were clear and that is what mattered most. Any rain on this dirt road would have had been trouble for us.
We had a bucket shower and dined on potatoes and rice at a small restaurant in the village. The facility used solar power.
There were no mosquitoes up here at 2600m. Cal and I shared a beer.
5/7/2015 Rujija to a campsite on the shores of Lake Bunyonyi
D38, T4.50 Av8.47, max51, 42,590 7,649
Overcast cool humid day, about 22°C on tops
The wind had blown all night, and the morning was quite chilly. We were all relieved to know much of todays ride was downhill.
During the night, if I moved my left leg the wrong way, cramp set in, it was painful. This often happens after a very strenuous day climbing.
The pillow in the room was rock hard so ales than desirable sleep was had.
Lately I have been not writing about the days ride each evening. This leads to less than passionate detailed writing. So, I hope I am not boring you.
In doing so much detail is not remembered. Creative energy and dialogue, for good or bad is being directed to my instagram photos.
These are often posted as things happen.
I know that to make this blog interesting, the days events have to be written each evening or morning whilst things are fresh in my mind.
Often this is difficult when one is worn out or needing to get away in the morning.
Travelling with Ben and Callum is so enjoyable, often time is spent just relaxing with them now instead of writing.
I need to discipline myself with regards to this. It is actually enjoyable recalling the days events and documenting them in such a way as to paint a picture for readers to enjoy.
At a road barrier to the park, we stopped and chatted to the staff. They told us the cool south easterly winds we were experiencing are a sign the dry season is on its way .
We still had a little bit of climbing to do. Though much of today was downhill. The forest was fascinating. I really took my time coming down the ranges. It was such a big job to ride up here. Often the guys were waiting for me.
We stopped on the roadside to have an early lunch. The scenery was stunning. There were patches in the forest without trees, just ferns, my monocular was used to scan these areas in the hope of seeing a gorilla or two.
As we got higher, we came upon the bamboo forests, here were elephant tracks and manure. We stopped and walked off into the forest at one point. Though could not get to far in due to stinging nettles.
To our right off in the distance we could see the conical shape of the volcano, Mt Muhabura in the hazy horizon.
All of a sudden our passage in the forest came to an end. We were back in civilisation, the steep hillsides were terraced and planted in potatoes. Some crops were on extremely steep slopes. The road was still just a dirt track. Thankfully, little rain had fell recently.
The views from up here were expansive and were always backed by the volcanos off in the distance.
We stopped at a well for water and fried chips for lunch. This road connects with the main road and soon we were back on tarmac, after a week on gravel and dirt roads it was a pleasure not to have to concentrate so much.
The terrain was still rolling hills. Soon we got to the creek that drains Lake Bunyonyi. Here was a bar and camp area. On enquiry, we decided to camp here the night.
The lake was free of crocs and Bulharzia blood flukes so cal and I had a swim in the warmish waters. We had quite an audience as we swam far from the shore.
The campsite was on a mown grass sward which was great for a change. A curried pasta was enjoyed for dinner.
6,7/7/2015 Lake Bunyonyi to Kisoro
D38, T2.4 Av14.32, max63, 42,673 7,687
Clear warm day, about 25 degrees
We all had a great sleep and were up early. The sun was obstructed by a hill to our east so it was quite fresh till its rays found our spot about 0830.
We packed and I went over to thank the staff for having us at such a reasonable rate.
Whilst here we used the lake waters to cook with.
Out on the road it was a steady climb again. Cal has a good app that gives profiles. The new road made it easy though.
The gradient was easy riding. Like all new roads lots of cut and fill areas were present.
The views were unreal of the volcanoes on the border with Congo, the Virungas as they are known, this area is also home to mountain gorillas.
Many people passed were asking for money, typical of touristy paces. However many people greeted us. Again the call, “Hey mzung, how are.” you is always warming as you ride by.
There was a great view down to Lake Bunyonyi where we had camped.
It is a much larger body of water than we thought with many long bays.
At the summit so to speak we stopped at a small village and enjoyed one of the best meals, it was very simple just fresh harvested potatoes and beans. This was made even better with Tabasco and pepper provided by myself.
From here the road rolled along then began to descend. It was quite cool all morning. On the way down Cal and I had a ball trying to outdo each other in speed.
The road could be trusted so we threw caution to the wind. Coming down one section and around a corner was a set of high speed humps. Talk about having to brake heavily. My brake pads screamed as they clasped the rim edges as tight so as not to lock the wheels.
I am very conscious about my weight over the rear wheel, which is only laced with 32 spokes but on a strong 26 inch rim.
It was warming up now as we descended further. It soon flattened out into to the valley overlooked by the volcano.
A refugee camp was passed. This was for people in transit from the Congo where there are small local differences being settled in many places.
We soon got to Kisoro though not before having to ride across the local airport runway.
It was a very busy town. Monday seems to be market day here in Uganda.
Here we visited no fewer than 6 guesthouses in the search for accommodation. Many were over priced, some were dirty and one had no water source. Finally we found the Homeland Guesthouse. It was quite new, we had feshly painted rooms and a shower rose was available. Cold water as usual. I am used to cold showers, they make me feel remarkably refreshed.
However, the initial plunge beneath is a shock. With vigorous soap lathering of my body. It soon feels comfortable.
There was a family making chips and kebabs in the courtyard to sell out the front on this busy day in town, we all had a huge plate of the freshest chips with shredded cabbage and a spicy homemade tomato sauce.
This was a great place to relax for a couple of days.
Time here was spent, doing very little.
I bought a couple of second hand European football team jumpers and cut them into into small skull caps and got them sewed up.
These were made of lightweight high tech stretch material, just perfect. I put these hats under my peak hat. The main reason is to keep the sun off my ears.
We also bought supplies like milk powder and porrige as these things are nore expensive in Rwanda.
We spent time planning our route south through Rwanda and on into Tanzania.
The boys and I are a little short on time . We are going to head south west to Lake Tananynika, then take the road south to Malawi, once there we can slow down again. Going to the coast in Tanzania past Kiliminjaro and back inland is almost a 3000km loop. Much of it through flat plains.
Pedro is going to spend time in Rwanda. This is the first time for me where time has been a restraint. I am not used to it, normally only climate determines my passage.
We ate out at very modest little eateries both nights. During the day we snacked on avocados and yoghurt among other things.
The roast peanuts are great here. They are very small nuts roasted with a little salt, very Moorish to say the least.
We all washed much of our clothing here in Kisoro. Mosquitoes seemed to be no problem.
We are all getting slack with our taking of the Malanil, often forgetting to take the tablets for a couple of days.
People panic about malaria back at home. Many people here have had it many times with no effect, other than building up some immunity.
I will agree there would not be a doctor in Australia who would tell you not to take some preventative medicine. Often the ridiculously expensive drug Malarone is prescribed. They are scared of getting sued if someone got it .
I have been told by locals and chemists here that if you take prophylactic medicine for a rew weeks then stop, the residual can offer protection for another few weeks of more after stopping.
I am carrying Coartem if one of us catches the disease in an isolated area. This is only taken if you have the symptoms. Twenty four tabs over three days is the dose.
8/7/2015 Kisoro, Uganda to Musanze, Rwanda
D43, T3 Av13.92, max55, 42,716 7,730
Clear warm day, about 25 degrees, cool evening, 1900m
Our ride today was not huge so we had a leisurely departure about 0930. Ben had his room key removed from his door, so had to pay for a replacement.
Out on the road after asking no fewer than 5 people the direction to Rwanda, we still ended up on the wrong road. No problems, we were soon on track and into rolling hills again, Rwanda is a very hilly country.
The volcan Muhabura was our constant companion. My newly constructed ear protecting hat was working perfectly and was comfortable.
It was some 12km to the border control. Here we changed our leftover shillings into Rwandan francs. Formalities were easy with few people in the line.
My passport has few blank pages left. The official kindly obliged my request to find a spot on an old page for the entry and exit stamps.
Once in Rwanda we stopped at the border village for lunch. Here a vege stew with rice was a great hearty meal.
Out on the road it was noticeable the number of people just walking along its edges, hundreds of them to be precise. Many were school children and women.
We greeted people with bonjour, the official languages here are French, Kinyarwanda and English. It was difficult to find people who spoke much English.
The road ascended for some time. Coming down it at break neck speeds were guys on Indian bicycles carrying large sacks of beans and other produce, they had their bells ringing constantly.
One good thing there were no speed humps here, Uganda is riddled with them.
Noticeable here was the lack of fresh fruit stalls and small shops for that matter.
Soon we began a leisurely descent into Musanze, again a lot of motels were inspected. We were in for a little bit of shock at the cost. We finally found a very rustic affair with twin beds in each room.
It cost 2000 francs each, or about the same as a single room in Uganda, though much more basic.
Try the Motel Beaucejour, Amacumbi lodge if you want some budget lodgings, it is ok!
Once settled in we all went into town to get sim cards for our phones. Tigo offered the best data deal. Their covered though assured was good is yet to be tested.
Dinner was at a buffet whch was great value, we then went to a bar for a few beers as it was our last night with Pedro.
He had been great company for the last two weeks.
15/6/2015 Busia to Busesa, New Life Guesthouse
D63, T3.3, Av18.07, max47, 41,807 6,856
Fine day
It was so nice to have a full nights sleep without having to get up every few hours to go to the loo.
One point of interest here in Uganda, is that much of the reticulated water is not fit for drinking until boiled or filtered.
We had plenty with us so were right. Again, the scenery was that of a generally flat landscape. Rice fields were common. Much fruit is in season with mango stalls in groups scattered along the highway.
Much of the traffic was matatus and trucks, all were very courteous. There was also a good shoulder, so the road contrary to popular belief was not so dangerous at all. At times, it was even peaceful with Ugandans just going about their business along its edges. We stopped in a village and had just the nicest meal and a lot of fun with the local kids who are well mannered and inquisitive, it takes nothing to get a smile.
Though my diarrhoea has passed, my energy levels were low so at about 1600 we stopped in the small village of Busesa and found the only guesthouse there. It was off the main road and along dirt tracks. It was very clean and tidy. That evening Cal and I went back to the highway and ate many of the beef kebabs, Uganda is well known for. Many of the people selling them have big bundles and mob matatus or trucks as they pull in. We made sure the ones we bought were straight from the charcoal.
We headed back and got Ben and went on to eat dinner. He too enjoyed a few kebabs.
We commented on how easy the riding had been since Getting to Nyahururu, it had been a gentle descent all the way, of course, there were hills in between but nothing like the hills on the way north from Nairobi. Ben is now getting very fit and has lost a lot of weight.
16/6/2015 Busesa to the source of the Nile, near Jinja
D65, T3.46, Av17.47, max50, 41,872 6,921
Fine day, mid afternoon downpour.
We awoke with anticipation of getting to the so called source of the Nile near Jinja. We miss not being able to get mendasi and chai for a second breakfast. I am sure if you look hard enough it could be found but we are not that desperate for the fix.
Riding again was easy with very gentle hills and greenery everywhere. Traffic was now getting busier as we were nearing Kampala. It was still not a safety issue though.
About 1430 we got to the turnoff to Jinja. We decided to go to the campground at the source of the Nile. It was a few km down the main road and then turn right at the roundabout. Just up this road was a fruit and vege market, here we bought potatoes to fry among other fruits.
Further up the road we stopped at a rustic little shed for something to eat. The woman tried to charge far too much. I showed her a photo of what we had bought the day before fore 4000 bob. She immediately dropped the price and we enjoyed the lovely smoked Nile perch with geens and rice.
From here, the road turned to red dirt. A few km on we turned right and went past one campground, the owner said the river was in flood. Trying to get us into his campground.
On arrival, we were stunned at the beauty of the location. We had to man handle our bikes down a grassed hill to a great spot almost on the river with lush green grass.
We set up camp, Cal and I swam, the owner told us there was no problem with catching Bilharzias from parasitic blood flukes, which can infect snails and inturn infect us. He said they only had the large snails.
The evening was mild and almost free of insects we enjoyed a beer over our dinner of pasta and fried potatoes.
The owner told us that things here have changed greatly since the construction of the Nalubaale dam. They watched the river slowly rise over a month at this point and the rapids here slowly disappeared. There were remains of trees mid stream which indicated islands infront of our campsite. The fishermen are happy as the river is now slow moving and easy to navigate as well as providing more fish.
17/6/2015 Source of the Nile to Namawojolo
D59, T3.46, Av15.84, max56, 41,931 6,980
Fine day
It was so pleasant to wake up and look out of my tent and see the huge body of water gently moving by. Clumps of water hyacinth were drifting past. There was a beautiful little red kingfisher on a riverside rock. There were also Herons feeding on fish in the shallows. A shag had caught a nice size fish, for a shag that is. Another shag decided he wanted it and pursued this bird around the river. Both were low level flying. The thief must have been a dominant bird because soon the captor of the dinner dropped it in the water. The thief made off with it undisturbed.
Cal got up and headed in for a swim. The sun came up and soon got very hot. This was great as the tents were drying nicely.
We were in no hurry to leave, I had time to try my luck fishing but with no success. We helped each other push our bikes up the hill out of the camp area.
It was 9km back to the highway. Out here, traffic was busy.
We crossed a dam here. Ben and I stopped to take photos, I kept riding .
Here we met a Korean guy riding, Ken was alone and had started in Addis.
He kept going after we chatted for awhile.
About 20 minutes later up the road there was no sign of Ben. Cal got a text from him to say he had been arrested for taking photos of the dam. We both rode back. On arrival at the other side of the structure on the roadside was Ben with 3 police officers. He told me they wanted 100,000 bob. They had taken him up to a sign reading no photos. None of us had seen this.
This officer was trying to bribe Ben, he had said to make it easy give some money. I was quite annoyed and said to him” Look we will pay the fine but we want a receipt”.
He went on the defensive and said we have to go back to the station where we will be put in a cell. I told him that is Ok we have plenty of time. By now, things were leaning in my favour. I kept saying that we need a receipt.
Soon an army officer came along. We all apologised for taking the photos. The crooked police officer then took Bens camera. Throughout the incident, the other two officers did not say much. The officer came up and asked me for water, he meant money. He wanted this in return for the camera.
The army guy said come with me to the police office across the dam.
The crooked officer had one last go at asking for water. I said no. He would not use the word money.
Once on the dam road the army guy said get going, you are free.
This was a good lesson about dealing with this situation. Always ask for a receipt when someone wants to fine you.
We rode on from here just trying to cover some ground following this dodgey situation.
We stopped for lunch. Further up the road now in some forest, monkeys were seen in many trees. A matatu had broken down and 10 passengers were stranded on the roadside. They borrowed my pliers to try and fix up a damaged radiator hose.
Cal had a spare hose clamp which he gave to them so they could get on their way.
A few km on from here, there was an unfortunate, confused dog in the middle of the road. A matatu was speeding past and hit the animal tossing it around like a rag doll as it was hit by the vehicle. Sadly, its owner was witness to this, he looked quite dismayed after the incident that occurred almost infront of me.
We met Ken again and he rode with us to the village of Namawojolo, where we found a guesthouse for the night.
We did washing and got our tents properly dry.
Dinner consisted of a wander into the village and each of us ate a good mix of street food. The great kebabs of chicken and beef, chapatti and eggs, bbq corn cob and drinks, it was all we needed.
These towns on this busy road have dozens of vendors selling kebabs, fruit and drinks among other things to passengers of matatus and truck drivers. They mob the matatus as the pull up. In no orderly fashion I might add!!
This goes on all night.
The motels here in Uganda are of a good standard, they are clean and have big beds with mostly intact mosquito nets.
My blog is a few days behind, it is hard to document alot of detail when not written nightly or at least bi nightly.
18/6/2015 Namawojolo to Ntinda, Kampala
D43, T2.57 Av14.63, max53, 41,974 7,023
Fine overcast day
We had decided to get on the road by 0700, Ken was going to join us. This was done. I was up early and emailed Pedro. We keep in touch regularly. It is great practice writing in Spanish. He said he is understanding it no problems. That makes me feel good.
Out on the highway it was very busy with a multitude of people walking down the shoulder and matatus running people to Kampala and other places. It was misty and cool. This road though busy has a good shoulder most of the time. The big hazard is dodging people and watching for oncoming motos.
We made good time and stopped at a restaurant for a second breakfast before riding the last 15km into town.
The traffic was fast and the situation was quite dangerous, one had to ride ever so defensively and be super focused on all around, far and near.
Once we knew our way to the Rwandan Embassy, we said goodbye to Ken. He did not need to visit as he already held an East African visa.
It was no problems finding the Embassy, just ask where the Acacia Mall is, or the British high commission.
Once here we did the paperwork, however they wanted a copy of our Ugandan Visas, so the guys got a boda boda and went to get copies. They also banked the $US50 we needed to obtain the visas. The embassy gave us the deposit slips.
So needed was, a photocopy of our passport, Ugandan visa, $US50 and a photo. A letter of intent and to fill out a form.
This takes 72 hrs to process so we have to come back Monday.
Pedro had given me the number of a Warmshowers host in Kampala. I got in touch with Alex and we arranged to meet him later in the day.
We spend the afternoon, at a great little eatery and then on the nature strip at the Acacia Mall.
Ben got his Iphone repaired whilst there.
We shouted ourselves an icecream. This mall is a very popular spot with Mzungus with prices similar to any big city in the world.
Alex phoned and we rode the few km to Ntinda, met him there and he directed us to his house. It was great we had a large tent in the backyard to sleep in .Pedro had slept in the same tent. It will be a great place to spend the weekend.
Alex is very busy with construction of military facilities in West Africa but had time for a good chat before we went to bed.
19-22/6/2015 Ntinda, Kampala, Uganda
Warmshowers host, Alex
Our time here was relaxing to say the least. We would sleep in and read or use the net most mornings. Rain was with us most of the five days. Though, mostly at night. On the Saturday it rained most of the morning, we had no guilt lying in bed until 1000.
Each day we would either hitch hike or catch a Boda Boda (motorcycle ) to town, some 3km away. Kampala is a very hilly city, our location was no exception.
We ate kebabs in town and good meals ate cheap eateries. A large portion of a Jackfruit was also enjoyed. This tastes like some kind of mild candy with a vanilla taste. It left our fingers incredibly sticky. Water would not take it off. A lot of soap was needed, someone told me cooking oil does the job.
Bens birthday was on the Sunday so, we went into town for lunch and took in the movie Jurassic World at the Acacia Mall complex.
This movie has all the time old ingredients, a hero, heroine, villain, love and good vs evil. Very basic plot. It is worth going to see just to watch the heroine escape on foot from a genetically modified T Rex, through the Costa Rican tropical jungle, in a pair of stilettos!! Even the visual effects were on a beaten path, except for the shark meat scene.
All in all, one wonders about the desire for people to escape their reality. It has been the biggest weekend box office success in history I recall.
Don’t lose an ounce of sleep if you never see it!!!
Alex was a great host, he was a busy person, we did not see much of him. So neither of us hot in each other’s way.
The supermarkets here like in Kenya are very well stocked. Nakumatt from Kenya has a presence here. Prices are for the most part very expensive,. Oranges are fifty cents each. Some were bought, originating from Egypt others South Africa.
23/6/2015 Ntinda, Kampala to Mityana
D77, T4.17 Av18.06, max61, 42,052 7,100
Fine overcast day, with a late shower, very humid about 26°C
We were most definitely ready to get back on the road this morning. It had been a great stay at Alex’s place but 5 days was enough.
We were up and ready to leave about 0830. It was dry so that made it easy. It had been a great tent to have spent so much time in.
We said goodbye to Alex and set off. The first 20km to Bulenga was flat and easy riding. Once in this town I went to buy some bananas and found Alexs gate key in my purse. I arranged with a supermarket to keep the key for him to pick it up.
I also slipped 10000 bob in the envelope to shout himself a beer on the way home if he wanted to.
We all felt very fit after such a good break.
Soon the hills started, nothing to steep but just continuous, it actually made for good riding. There were fruit stalls along much of the way.
We bought probably the best Pineapples I have ever eaten. They were sweet and had just been picked. Something about pineapples wasclearnt today. The fresher the leaves look the better they will taste. Old leaves will indicate that glassy look inside.
We also enjoyed a delicious pawpaw.
From here, we got to a turnoff a few km before Mityana, here guys were selling the kebabs to every car and bus that stopped. We bought a couple of beef kebabs each.
Full of energy we rode on. Cal was feeling a bit lustless though.
Before Mityana we stopped and bought a watermelon and cut that up at the fruit stall. It too was so sweet and juicy .
Soon it started to rain, not heavy but just enough to wet the road. On the plus side it cooled us down and was somewhat refreshing,.
It soon petered out further along the road. Once in Mityana, the first hotel was booked. It was great to be on concrete again. The rooms were huge and had a bucket shower set up.
The guys rested. I went and bought some peanuts and just sat outside the hotel and watched life go by whilst washing them down with an icy coke.
I thought to myself how absolutely fantastic it was to have my sons with me. They both threw in their jobs do to this once in a lifetime trip with their dad.
In the big picture, 6mths off their working life is nothing. Not too many sons get to ride Africa for half a year with their dad.
These thoughts left a warm feeling within myself.
Here I was just chewing on a few nuts in the heart of Afica. We are interacting and mixing with the locals everyday, we eat what they eat and stay in their local hotels. It doesn’t seem like something you would describe as a holiday. We are kind of living here for the duration of the journey.
Dinner was enjoyed in the cafe at our hotel. That of rice, beef stew and greens, followed by a punnet of yoghurt from the supermarket.
We all had a hot bucket shower, using water we had boiled in our rooms with the stoves and resistencias.
The traffic on the road today was not busy and like most roads so far in Uganda it had a good shoulder when needed.
24/6/2015 Mityana to Mubende
D84, T4.37 Av18.60, max61, 42,136 7,184
Fine clear day, very humid about 26°C
This road is not what was expected, it is almost tranquil and the hills are not steep. Riding again was the same all surrounded by a lush green landscape.
In the low open valley areas are plants known locally as Mpamujugu. It is incredibly dense and dominates to flora in these valleys. Often there are people with small nurseries on the roadsides in these places selling tube stock.
We stopped in a small village, of which there are numerous along the way. Here we bought yucca chips, they are great and provide lots of energy and taste especially good with salt.
My eating and drinking habits are quite different from home where I do not put salt on any meals, perhaps just a tiny amount on chicken, I most definitely don’t drink coca cola.
Here with all this exercise my body tells me it needs all these things, salt and lots of sugar. Sometimes the urge to eat fruit arises or meat or maybe not. These urges are quite strong. Eating is done to provide energy. Not because it is time to eat. I think back at home all the food we eat and most do little exercise how bad it must be for us. Looking at photos of people my age, friends included, everyone has a layer of the good life on them,. By this I mean full faces and heavy shoulders and arms. This is from all this food with some alcohol, Much of which is metabolised in ones sleep.
The young children on the side of the road come running out from the homes yelling out Mzungu, waving with huge smiles, it is so heart warming. Often there are large groups of school children all in school uniform along the roadside, they always give us a rowdy yet genuine welcome.
Most of the larger towns have people selling these delicious kebabs for 1000 bob. We usually stop for a few beef sticks.
Any vehicle that dares to stop, gets mobbed. We try to buy the ones that are being cooked infront of us. The vendors are often carrying around a fistful and take them back to the bbq to reheat them before they hit the road. Consequently some are over cooked and dry.
On arrival in Mubende we found a guesthouse but the manager was away. We waited and waited and decided to find another. In the meantime we ate. There was a huge covered area where people were cooking the kebabs, bananas and corn over charcoal. The place was thick with a rich smoke smelling delightfully of meat and chicken. We had a great chicken kebab, it was almost a quarter chicken.
I ate at a small eatery below the bbq shed. The big green Link buses would pull in, there were up to fifty traders reaching up to the windows with the kebabs, drinks and other types of food for travellers. We sat just up from one. By the time it crept past us there was all sorts of debris coming out of the windows, everything from wooden sticks to plastic bottles and corn cobs.
There is a pattern of total disregard when it comes to littering in countries where feeding the family, providing shelter and finding work are difficult for many.
Soon we were in the other guesthouse. It had one of the best cold water showers we have had for some time. The refreshing heavy flow of water felt so good. In this climate we can wash our riding clothes on arrival and they are generally dry in the morning .
25/6/2015 Mubende to Kyenjojo (Motels are right at the central roundabout)
D98, T5.30 Av17.50, max63, 42,234 7,282
Fine clear day, very humid about 26°C
We were up early, today was going to be a big day and the terrain again was rolling hills. It was 100km to Kyenjojo. This would be Bens biggest day to date.
We loaded the left over bread and a pineapple and other sandwich filling veges. From the town the road took us down and then back up a gentle slope.
This was the pattern most of the day.
It was some of the best riding done in Africa, the road had a great surface and there was little traffic, except for the green Link buses that were travelling at dangerously fast speeds.
The hills are gentle and time is always made up on the descents on the other side. It is such that my small front cog was only used near the end of the day.
There were all sorts of rural activities on the roadside. People were selling bags of charcoal, thrashing piles of bean pods to extract the beans, fruit stalls and the ever present herders with their small group of animals.
We stopped every 20km, to talk and regroup. At the 60km mark we stopped in some shade for our sandwiches and pineapple. The Avocados we are buying are 25c each and huge. They are so tasty with a mild nutty hint.
It makes just the best butter for our sandwiches. Each time we stop Ben is only about 5-10 minutes behind us. He is really riding well. Importantly we all ride at our own pace. Consequently we are riding alone much of the time. Callum and I are never far apart. He will ride with me sometimes to listen to the music on my speaker.
Riding alone gives us space from each other and is often more peaceful and relaxing.
At the 80km mark, we stopped at a small village and found a shop with 1l bottles of cokes in glass. These were drunk rapidly. As said before Coco Cola is a different drink from glass.
Our bodies were craving sugar.
We stopped further on at a roadside fruit and vege stall. The woman tried to charge us 5000 bob for a slice of melon. She was not worth haggling with, we said goodbye and left. She had a smirky smile on her face. It is always the honest traders further up the road that keep one happy!
A stop was made, in another village where chapatti and honey were enjoyed.
Just prior to this village was a forest reserve. It gave me an idea what all this country must have been like years ago before man cleared it. There were Colubus monkeys in many trees. That was only the ones we saw. The forest was thick and lush with Staghorns in the taller trees and palms growing in the understory and fringes.
Before arriving at Kyenjojo there was one last big climb. Cal and I waited for Ben who was only some 15 minutes behind. We were all worn out.
Finding a guest house was easy. So we settled in quick. Ben wheeled his bike into his room and immediately fell asleep on the Ben. Cal and I both did our chores of washing and showering. I made a cup of coffee.
We all went out for an early meal. Cal and I headed off to buy some yoghurt. It is sold here in sachets and though commercially produced tastes great, especially the vanilla flavour.
I have been unable to publish any of my notes on Uganda because Weebly, my host from the US is not available here.
27/6/2015 Kyenjojo to Fort Portal
D52, T3.30 Av14.77, max53, 42,286 7,344
Heavy morning rain
Our hotel was comfortable, though as usual there is always noise in the early mornings. It rained heavily as we were getting up. We decided to let it stop before leaving.
Much ogf the way was planted in tea, the scenery was breth taking with little traffic on the road. At one point, we came across a troupe of baboons on the roadside. They were very quite and had no guilt about slowing down traffic as they sat on the road. This patch of forest was full of monkeys.
From here the road climbed further until we got up on the tops. Here the scenery was great with tea plantations everywhere.
We stopped at a small village for lunch and had to put up with people wanting us to buy their meals and soda.
They were told that we were the wrong people to be talking to. “try some mzungus driving a car”.
Many were very well manicured with silky oaks growing amongst the tea.
On arrival in Fort portal it was great to see Pedro, he had already booked guest house. It was a comfortable place with nice people.
It was a bucket shower affair but with a bit of boiled water in the bucket it was bearable. The president was in town opening a church for the day. So it was very busy. We had two days relaxing here.
28/6/2015 Fort Portal to Rwimi
D55, T4 Av13.77, max68, 42,341 7,399
Overcast humid day about 27°C
Getting fresh and clean drinking water here in Uganda is sometimes very difficult, we had bought an 18L bottle between us. It is cheap but buying water is not what I like to do.
It is bad from all respects, firstly its need indicates a poor environment, it creates litter and is a drain on resources. Lastly, drinking local water provides antibodies to fight off local bacteria and other things.
It was great to be riding with Pedro again, there was no familiarisation needed. As soon as we left town we were on a gravel road, it was hard packed. There were people everywhere as usual. Many were going to church.
Many had a few bunches of bananas on bikes.
Along here, we turned off to the Mahoma falls. This was nothing more than a walking track, but rideable in almost all parts. We passed one or two crater lakes. The kids told us there were crocodiles in these. They also caught fish in their waters.
It was the first time, we had seen children who were suffering from malnutrition, many had bloated stomachs.
The lakes were picturesque but had very steep inaccessible shores.
Lunch was enjoyed by a small creek in a banana plantation under some shady Eucalypts.
Crossing the small creek below us was a very steep track up the other bank. So as not to strain my lower back I offered the kids who watched us eat some money, for a push they eagerly helped.
I gave them 5000 bob at the top of the hill. They were all excited and ran off, making a great noise back to the village. No doubt to spend it. It told them to share it!.
From here we got back onto the road and stopped at a village Rwankwenzi and had jackfruit. The road was still red dirt but generally downhill. The kids now are quite cheeky and ask for money and bags. One grabbed my gear on the back I stopped and yelled at them they scattered.
Once back on the main road and asphalt we rode on to Rwimi and booked the Corner lodge..
It was as usual clean but had bucket showers the boys shared a double, Pedro and I had a single each. Dinner was down the road across from the cement works.
29/6/2015 Rwimi to Katunguru
D60, T3.23 Av17.65, max50, 42,401 7,459
Overcast humid day about 27°C
We had a good nights sleep, though as usual someone was banging on the gate in the middle of the night. There were a group of guys still obviously drunk from the night before in a room.
The weather is really starting to settle down now. The border ranges with Congo were barely visible in the haze.
The riding was a pleasure, largely downhill though gentle. The morning air had a little freshness about it, which made it even better. We soon got to some markets by the roadside, these were the Mubuku markets. They would have to have been one of the best rural markets ever visited. There was everything available, especially in season fruit. We sat on the roadside eating, avocados, mangoes, bananas, pineapples and fried potato balls. I bought some smoked catfish. It was quite amusing, the vendor told me the price and I said it was a mzungu price. Anyway, all the women around his table wanted fish but would not buy as I was there. They did not want me to see what they paid. We all joked about it. In the end, I paid a price I was happy with.
We all laughed as I walked off and they started buying the fish. From here, we were riding along with the huge savannah of the Queen Elizabeth park to our left and the hazy ranges to our right.
Soon Lake George came into view on our left. The land was vegetated in Acacias and grasses with manyof the branchy succulent trees growing.
Soon we came to another small village with a right hand turn to the Congo via the Rwenzori ranges. It was 38 km to Mpondwe. Whilst resting here, it was noticed my right pedal bearings had come loose this was seen to, the plastic nut on the end required tightening. I use Powergrip pedals.
We stopped to take photos at the equator as usual. Here we met a great couple from Dar es Salaam who took a few photos for us.
Crossing the equator in recent weeks has been a common occurrence, especially around Mount Kenya. I think we are finally now in the southern hemisphere for the rest of the journey, barring the extraordinary.
We got to the small village of Muhokya and found a small hotel for lunch. It was great, we sat under a shady Poincianna and enjoyed matoke, rice and goat meat. There was an audience of well behaved kids and one particular character who was a chat chewer, as usual he asked for money as we left.
We spent an hour here just chatting and relaxing.
Soon we got to the well known Kazinga channel. It did not take long to spot a couple of hippos, they were in the water infront of the fishing huts.
We then hired a boat to take us up the channel to view more animals. It was now about 1800 hours. From the boat we saw many hippo and buffalo in the water together. A carcass of a dead hippo was seen, apparently the males will fight to the death over dominance of a group of females. The locals will eat the meat if they find it soon enough. Sadly, here in the early 2000’s, Anthrax killed many hippos here. They would go onto the land to die.
Once back at the shores we got the bikes, and rode back to the village of Katunguru and stayed at a bar come lodge. It was very rustic and a bit dirty but sufficed. Dinner was enjoyed, just up the road.
My room and no light bulb so some guy came and changed the fitting, also an old padlock had to be smashed of the door. It is a good idea to carry your own padlock for these lodges.
Mosquitos and small flies were everywhere before going to bed. Again, nets were supplied.
30/6/2015 Katunguru to Kishenyi Village, Lake Edward
D59, T4.38 Av12.65, max56, 42,459 7,518
Overcast humid day, light afternoon shower, about 27°C
Pedro and I got up before daylight and wandered off down to the channel, some 700m away down the road in the hope of seeing some hippos returning to the water. Interestingly they feed all night on land eating grass, then return to the safety of the water for before daylight. As soon as we got there, two were wandering very slowly back to the water in amongst the huts. We were told the safest way to approach them is with a torch making a noise. Trying not to get yourself between a hippo and the water.
We also saw buffalo feeding in the early morning.
Fishermaen were already on the water setting nets.
Back at the lodge, we had a leisurely breakfast and headed off about 0930. I bought a smoked catfish for lunch.
Once across the channel it was a few kilometers to the turnoff to the gravel road and onto the village of Kazinga, after some 16km we turned off to the right.
All along this road were signs of elephants, fresh broken tree limbs and manure.
We did not see any though.
The roadside was covered in small yellow and white butterflies. Thousands of them.
Once in the village located at the western end of the channel, we met the chairman of the village, he said we could camp there. As an hour passed we were shown where to camp. Then another man came up and said that they had rung the park headquarters and they had said we needed to return to pay them to stay the night. We were bitterly disappointed but had no choice but to leave. We asked if we could just have lunch first, that was fine.
Whilst doing so we saw elephants grazing in the close distance. One was a huge bull.
The location was magic overlooking Lake Edward. So, we had to back track. Once back at the turnoff we turned right and continued on to the shore side village of Kishenyi.
Along the way, we saw at least 10 elephants grazing leisurely in the chest high grasses.
Waterbuck were also seen.
Cal was suffering from his persistent headache all day. We were now beginning to think it could have been mild malaria.
A good shower of rain had fallen up head of us. Luckily we avoided it.
Coming to asphalt signified the approach to the village. We rode into the single street community. The road went straight down to the lake. Down here were numerous wooden long boats.
There were also hippo out in the water. We were told, it was not safe to camp outdoors here because of the wildlife. We visited the chairman, and he said we could stay here.
Later, after signing in the police visitors book we met the catholic minister who said we could stay in the church for the night.
We hung about to 1800 to get this organised. It was great we had the concrete church to ourselves. We pitched our tents inside the large building. Ben hung a mosquito net for an exposed roof truss. Cal was feeling pretty bad by now having had a headache all day.
The village had solar power and a great fresh water supply from the ground. We filled all our bottles and bladders here.
Pedro, Ben and I went out to see if we could find a place to eat. We found a little hut that served beans and chapatti. We stopped for a fresh cooked chapatti and eggs on the way back to the church.
In the early evening there were Warthogs just casually feeding on the grasses in the village amongst goats.
Cal managed to eat some of the beans.
During the night, having to get up to go to the toilet, there were dozens of Water Buck just feeding and sitting on the grass around the building. We were very lucky to be here in this refuge. Camping is just not safe with hippos about on land at night. Also, elephants visited the village during the evening.
Before going to bed, we opened all the windows in the church to get some air movement in the clammy night air.
1/7/2015 Kishenyi Village, Lake Edward all day
Fine with a cool lake breeze
It had been a great place to sleep for the night, the flowing air had kept it comfortable.
Pedro and I were up early before daylight and wandered down to the lake. Here we were besieged by thousands of small flies, they were so thick we could hardly see in the pre dawn light.
Hippo were seen at close quarters wandering back to the lake, as we approached they would speed up to a jog as they got closer to the water.
They make the pilgrimage back just before you can see clearly. Hence, it is very difficult to get a good photo with basic camera gear.
On arrival back at the church, Cal still had his headache. We were beginning to get a little worried now. This is one of the first symptoms of malaria. However, he had no other symptoms common to malaria. We had earlier thought he may have just been dehydrated. Cal said he had been drinking all day.
So we waited this morning till the clinic opened and Cal took the Malaria test given by the local doctor here who was a very helpful man. The little indicator only showed one line. We were relieved he did not show up positive to malaria. The doctor gave him Panadol and Lumartem, a generic of Coartem.
We decided to stop here another day to try and give Cal time to get back to normal and get rid of his headache.
2/7/2015 Kishenyi Village, Lake Edward to Kihihi
D64, T4.50 Av13.15, max40, 42,523 7,582
Overcast humid day, light afternoon storm, about 27°C
Our time here in the village was for us rather unique. We saw a variety of animals. A crested crane was seen in the paddock behind the village. This beautiful bird is the national emblem of Uganda.
Seeing the hippos feeding in the grass next to houses on the full moon was quite unbelievable. We could hear them pulling at the grass.
Cals headache has disappeared, we think it could be a coffee withdrawal symptom. After all, he did manage a coffee shop.
We left a small donation with the pastor and went down to the village to have chapatti and egg before leaving.
The road from here was flat with quartz gravel on the surface. The country was still open with Acacia and other trees scattered. We saw a few antelope in the long grasses. We approached a fast flowing stream of brown water. Here I stopped and stripped off and had a good wash and cleaned all the clothes I was wearing. They were soon dry in the hot air. The guys just had a rest.
Much of the traffic on the road was tourists in safari wagons with either high seats or an open roof.
One couple showed us some photos of climbing lions for which this area is famous. We stopped under the only shade we could find and had lunch about 1400. We had a good rest and used the billy to cook noodles and Soya meat.
Soon we came to the turn off to Kihihi, this was a left turn, going straight ahead would have taken us to the Congo.
The number of people on the roadside increased as we got closer to the village. A stop was made at a community well to fill up all our water containers. Some guys gave Pedro and I mangoes freshly picked from a tree. The season here is nearing its end. They were small and over ripe.
Once in the village we didn’t take long to find a lodge. Here washing was done and chips and kebabs were enjoyed on the street for dinner.
Most of my batteries were flat so this was a major priority, getting them recharged.
People here are characters, they will just come to the door of your hotel room and just stand there and look what you are doing.
After a while you get used to this.
3/7/2015 Kihihi to Tea shed near Butagota
D29, T2.20 Av12.40, max51, 42,5552 7,611
Overcast humid day, heavy afternoon storm, about 27°C
The guesthouse had been comfortable and we were a bit late getting away. The town had a well stocked supermarket. There was also a Stanbic ATM here. I withdrew 250,000 bob to get me to the border.
The heavy rain last evening had left the red dirt road damp but very smooth. Some 3km from town my rear wheel was making a noise going downhill under brakes. An inspection revealed a broken spoke on the cassette side. It was the thinner spoke that had been fitted. It was a case of “something is only as strong as its weakest part”.
I stopped and wheeled the bike under a tree, took everything off and proceeded to replace it and true the wheel. The guys had been told by moto riders that I had a breakdown. Once it was repaired, I found them waiting just a few hundred metres up the road over a rise.
The country is so lush and productive, green is the predominant colour as usual. It was rolling hills again all day on the gravel road.
Tea plantations were common as were bananas and Eucalypt trees. A stop was made in one of the numerous villages along the way. A boy here was riding one of these huge robust wooden scooters that they use to carry almost anything.
We were quite worn out about 1400 and stopped in a village to try and find a place to stay. It had started raining. Anyway nothing really suitable was found. We were stocked up to camp so rode on when the rain had ceased.
Along the way were shelters for the tea harvesters to spread out the harvested leaves. We stopped at one of these. As Ben pulled in his seat fell off his bike. The bolt connecting to the seat post had sheared.
Upon inspection, it was revealed we needed another. None of us had spare bolts this big. You just don’t expect these to break.
He made three trips back to Butagota to get a couple of bolts and cut them to length.
There was a gathering of school children under the shelter. They were great fun, we gave them a good English lesson and they us a Luganda lesson.
The girls as usual are always shy when it comes to having their photos taken, not so the guys.
There was another down pour. A bolt of lightning and the resultant thunder nearly knocked the shelter over it was so close. We all got a huge fright.
After dark the kids all moved on and we set up our tents. A great pasta was made. We fry onions, garlic, capsicum, tomatoes and soya meat in the pan then add the tomato paste. This spicy sauces then added to the pasta. 500gms adequately feeds the four of us.
Our dishes were done in the roadside grass that had a small puddle in it.
A man and his daughter also stopped by and left us a stalk of sugar cane.
It was great to be camped under a shelter. The earth floor was raised so as to stop water running inside.
4/7/2015 Tea shed near Butagota to Ruhija
D38, T4.50 Av8.47, max51, 42,590 7,649
Overcast cool humid day, about 22°C on tops
Knowing we had a big climb all day we were up before dawn and ready to leave by 0730.
Even before we left there were tea pickers coming to drop off the leaves they had picked.
Bens seat had been successfully repaired so he was happy. As soon as we got on the red dirt road the climbing began. Soon the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest Park was on our right. This area is home to the gorillas. Though, at $650 to trek in to see them, it was beyond our budgets.
On the steepest of hillsides are tea plantations, many people greeted us from above the road, sometimes it took awhile to work out where the sound was coming from.
The riding was superb amongst the lush forest. Monkeys were seen on many occasions. Ben and Cal bought some ink drawings of gorillas off some young boys, who were really quite talented.
At the bottom of a small descent, we stopped to rest at a pristine creek.
Looking at the heavy forest, one could just imagine gorillas living here.
Avocados have become a favourite with all of us. They are about 45c each and are huge. I am eating at least two a day. Ben is eating more. We add lemon juice when they can be bought.
The climbing continued all day, we were all tiring. The shade of the trees offered some respite. A stop was made at one small village here roasted peanuts were bought with avocados and bananas.
A good break for lunch was enjoyed below a little school on a hilltop called the Gorilla Neighbours School. Some young boys gathered to watch us. They had chameleons on sticks, similar to the children further back on the road. There was a small stand of Eucalypts adjacent to us. These boys had no problems climbing up the trunks often to 15m or more to break off dead branches.
From here it just kept going up, some places the road just became a track. The views were now expansive, we were at 2200m.
Many of the children on the roadside were asking for money, they see quite a few tourists here, who come to see the gorillas.
At 1700 hours we got to the turn off to Rujija, this was just a dirt track. During the last part of the day, I was feeling totally wasted. Some parts of the road had bed rock on the surface. Riding over this was most difficult and involved some particularly steep sections.
We were all very happy to have reached the village . The prices of the few places we checked initially, revealed its status as a touristy place.
The main street of the small village was on the side of a ridge, it was like riding into a movieset of a cowboy movie. Each little shop was a free standing wooden building .
We finally found lodgings at the Ruhija Gorilla Friends Resort Campsite.
It was cold up here with a strong wind blowing, however the skies were clear and that is what mattered most. Any rain on this dirt road would have had been trouble for us.
We had a bucket shower and dined on potatoes and rice at a small restaurant in the village. The facility used solar power.
There were no mosquitoes up here at 2600m. Cal and I shared a beer.
5/7/2015 Rujija to a campsite on the shores of Lake Bunyonyi
D38, T4.50 Av8.47, max51, 42,590 7,649
Overcast cool humid day, about 22°C on tops
The wind had blown all night, and the morning was quite chilly. We were all relieved to know much of todays ride was downhill.
During the night, if I moved my left leg the wrong way, cramp set in, it was painful. This often happens after a very strenuous day climbing.
The pillow in the room was rock hard so ales than desirable sleep was had.
Lately I have been not writing about the days ride each evening. This leads to less than passionate detailed writing. So, I hope I am not boring you.
In doing so much detail is not remembered. Creative energy and dialogue, for good or bad is being directed to my instagram photos.
These are often posted as things happen.
I know that to make this blog interesting, the days events have to be written each evening or morning whilst things are fresh in my mind.
Often this is difficult when one is worn out or needing to get away in the morning.
Travelling with Ben and Callum is so enjoyable, often time is spent just relaxing with them now instead of writing.
I need to discipline myself with regards to this. It is actually enjoyable recalling the days events and documenting them in such a way as to paint a picture for readers to enjoy.
At a road barrier to the park, we stopped and chatted to the staff. They told us the cool south easterly winds we were experiencing are a sign the dry season is on its way .
We still had a little bit of climbing to do. Though much of today was downhill. The forest was fascinating. I really took my time coming down the ranges. It was such a big job to ride up here. Often the guys were waiting for me.
We stopped on the roadside to have an early lunch. The scenery was stunning. There were patches in the forest without trees, just ferns, my monocular was used to scan these areas in the hope of seeing a gorilla or two.
As we got higher, we came upon the bamboo forests, here were elephant tracks and manure. We stopped and walked off into the forest at one point. Though could not get to far in due to stinging nettles.
To our right off in the distance we could see the conical shape of the volcano, Mt Muhabura in the hazy horizon.
All of a sudden our passage in the forest came to an end. We were back in civilisation, the steep hillsides were terraced and planted in potatoes. Some crops were on extremely steep slopes. The road was still just a dirt track. Thankfully, little rain had fell recently.
The views from up here were expansive and were always backed by the volcanos off in the distance.
We stopped at a well for water and fried chips for lunch. This road connects with the main road and soon we were back on tarmac, after a week on gravel and dirt roads it was a pleasure not to have to concentrate so much.
The terrain was still rolling hills. Soon we got to the creek that drains Lake Bunyonyi. Here was a bar and camp area. On enquiry, we decided to camp here the night.
The lake was free of crocs and Bulharzia blood flukes so cal and I had a swim in the warmish waters. We had quite an audience as we swam far from the shore.
The campsite was on a mown grass sward which was great for a change. A curried pasta was enjoyed for dinner.
6,7/7/2015 Lake Bunyonyi to Kisoro
D38, T2.4 Av14.32, max63, 42,673 7,687
Clear warm day, about 25 degrees
We all had a great sleep and were up early. The sun was obstructed by a hill to our east so it was quite fresh till its rays found our spot about 0830.
We packed and I went over to thank the staff for having us at such a reasonable rate.
Whilst here we used the lake waters to cook with.
Out on the road it was a steady climb again. Cal has a good app that gives profiles. The new road made it easy though.
The gradient was easy riding. Like all new roads lots of cut and fill areas were present.
The views were unreal of the volcanoes on the border with Congo, the Virungas as they are known, this area is also home to mountain gorillas.
Many people passed were asking for money, typical of touristy paces. However many people greeted us. Again the call, “Hey mzung, how are.” you is always warming as you ride by.
There was a great view down to Lake Bunyonyi where we had camped.
It is a much larger body of water than we thought with many long bays.
At the summit so to speak we stopped at a small village and enjoyed one of the best meals, it was very simple just fresh harvested potatoes and beans. This was made even better with Tabasco and pepper provided by myself.
From here the road rolled along then began to descend. It was quite cool all morning. On the way down Cal and I had a ball trying to outdo each other in speed.
The road could be trusted so we threw caution to the wind. Coming down one section and around a corner was a set of high speed humps. Talk about having to brake heavily. My brake pads screamed as they clasped the rim edges as tight so as not to lock the wheels.
I am very conscious about my weight over the rear wheel, which is only laced with 32 spokes but on a strong 26 inch rim.
It was warming up now as we descended further. It soon flattened out into to the valley overlooked by the volcano.
A refugee camp was passed. This was for people in transit from the Congo where there are small local differences being settled in many places.
We soon got to Kisoro though not before having to ride across the local airport runway.
It was a very busy town. Monday seems to be market day here in Uganda.
Here we visited no fewer than 6 guesthouses in the search for accommodation. Many were over priced, some were dirty and one had no water source. Finally we found the Homeland Guesthouse. It was quite new, we had feshly painted rooms and a shower rose was available. Cold water as usual. I am used to cold showers, they make me feel remarkably refreshed.
However, the initial plunge beneath is a shock. With vigorous soap lathering of my body. It soon feels comfortable.
There was a family making chips and kebabs in the courtyard to sell out the front on this busy day in town, we all had a huge plate of the freshest chips with shredded cabbage and a spicy homemade tomato sauce.
This was a great place to relax for a couple of days.
Time here was spent, doing very little.
I bought a couple of second hand European football team jumpers and cut them into into small skull caps and got them sewed up.
These were made of lightweight high tech stretch material, just perfect. I put these hats under my peak hat. The main reason is to keep the sun off my ears.
We also bought supplies like milk powder and porrige as these things are nore expensive in Rwanda.
We spent time planning our route south through Rwanda and on into Tanzania.
The boys and I are a little short on time . We are going to head south west to Lake Tananynika, then take the road south to Malawi, once there we can slow down again. Going to the coast in Tanzania past Kiliminjaro and back inland is almost a 3000km loop. Much of it through flat plains.
Pedro is going to spend time in Rwanda. This is the first time for me where time has been a restraint. I am not used to it, normally only climate determines my passage.
We ate out at very modest little eateries both nights. During the day we snacked on avocados and yoghurt among other things.
The roast peanuts are great here. They are very small nuts roasted with a little salt, very Moorish to say the least.
We all washed much of our clothing here in Kisoro. Mosquitoes seemed to be no problem.
We are all getting slack with our taking of the Malanil, often forgetting to take the tablets for a couple of days.
People panic about malaria back at home. Many people here have had it many times with no effect, other than building up some immunity.
I will agree there would not be a doctor in Australia who would tell you not to take some preventative medicine. Often the ridiculously expensive drug Malarone is prescribed. They are scared of getting sued if someone got it .
I have been told by locals and chemists here that if you take prophylactic medicine for a rew weeks then stop, the residual can offer protection for another few weeks of more after stopping.
I am carrying Coartem if one of us catches the disease in an isolated area. This is only taken if you have the symptoms. Twenty four tabs over three days is the dose.
8/7/2015 Kisoro, Uganda to Musanze, Rwanda
D43, T3 Av13.92, max55, 42,716 7,730
Clear warm day, about 25 degrees, cool evening, 1900m
Our ride today was not huge so we had a leisurely departure about 0930. Ben had his room key removed from his door, so had to pay for a replacement.
Out on the road after asking no fewer than 5 people the direction to Rwanda, we still ended up on the wrong road. No problems, we were soon on track and into rolling hills again, Rwanda is a very hilly country.
The volcan Muhabura was our constant companion. My newly constructed ear protecting hat was working perfectly and was comfortable.
It was some 12km to the border control. Here we changed our leftover shillings into Rwandan francs. Formalities were easy with few people in the line.
My passport has few blank pages left. The official kindly obliged my request to find a spot on an old page for the entry and exit stamps.
Once in Rwanda we stopped at the border village for lunch. Here a vege stew with rice was a great hearty meal.
Out on the road it was noticeable the number of people just walking along its edges, hundreds of them to be precise. Many were school children and women.
We greeted people with bonjour, the official languages here are French, Kinyarwanda and English. It was difficult to find people who spoke much English.
The road ascended for some time. Coming down it at break neck speeds were guys on Indian bicycles carrying large sacks of beans and other produce, they had their bells ringing constantly.
One good thing there were no speed humps here, Uganda is riddled with them.
Noticeable here was the lack of fresh fruit stalls and small shops for that matter.
Soon we began a leisurely descent into Musanze, again a lot of motels were inspected. We were in for a little bit of shock at the cost. We finally found a very rustic affair with twin beds in each room.
It cost 2000 francs each, or about the same as a single room in Uganda, though much more basic.
Try the Motel Beaucejour, Amacumbi lodge if you want some budget lodgings, it is ok!
Once settled in we all went into town to get sim cards for our phones. Tigo offered the best data deal. Their covered though assured was good is yet to be tested.
Dinner was at a buffet whch was great value, we then went to a bar for a few beers as it was our last night with Pedro.
He had been great company for the last two weeks.
