browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
20/10/2013 Malargue to  Bardas Blancas

D69, T5.5/8.5, Av11.94, Max37, Tot20946, 11145

Windy start to day, finished with gale force winds.


We both felt well fed after last nights feast. On the way out of town we bought bread and a few other bits and pieces.

Almost immediately a gentle climb began .

The wind was now quite fresh out of the nor west.

Soon we were climbing steadily. A great wind was almost blowing us up the hill. In fact at one point I was literally not pedaling but going uphill.

We were very fortunate to have the wind in our favour for the morning.

It was a steady climb all the way.

Once over the top we stopped for things to eat in the only shelter we could find, that of a scoured watercourse, deep enough to provide enough shelter to boil some water.

We were complaining about the wind at the time. Little did we know what lay ahead.

Coming down we were pedaling just to get forward motion even though it was downhill.

I was getting cold and changed into long pants, Dorothy continued in her long shorts.

We were now following a river valley. It was a huge valley with this little trickle of water in a large gravel riverbed. It was like a trickle of water in a gutter, so little water in a place designed for a huge flow.

The wind kept getting stronger as the valley road leveled out.

Pretty soon, there were clouds of dust being blown down the road.

It just kept getting stronger. Its direction lay straight towards us.

In that respect were also lucky.

Soon the gusts were too strong to control the bikes.

If you got side on to it, the wind got hold of you and took you with it.

My bike with me on it was blown over on a few occasions. We were riding apart from each other . It was to dangerous to be near one another.

Stopping at one slightly elevated corner to wait for Dorothy, things started getting a bit desperate. It was hard to just stand up in the gale.

I was being sand blasted relentlessly. Dorothy caught up, we spoke having to yell at each other. She was fine though like me had been flattened a few times.

My camera was put in a soft bag and put in my rain coat, the dust was not going to claim this unit so soon.

Around the bend Poplar trees could be seen, they are a favorite here around houses.

Hopefully there would be some shelter from this sand laden wind that was battering us.

There were a couple of vehicles pulled up. One was the local police wagon.

Asked the officer about the old building across the road to shelter in.

He said come and stay at the police station.

Well this was another 5km up the road. A new bridge was being built just after a roundabout.

From here gravel formed the road surface.

Visibility was now at times down to just a few metres. The few trucks coming towards us were stirring up the surface, ahead of them was a brown cloud of abrasive sand coming at us in the 100km plus wind.

Dorothy was behind me, she was getting a real hair removal job done on her lower legs. No need for her to have a wax job for some time.

At one point, a guy came past on a big Honda touring bike doing about 10km/hr. He was doing his best just keep his bike upright.

I stopped him and told him the policeman said we could stay in the garage at the station, just over the big bridge spanning the Rio Grande.

He went further up the road obviously to find a place to turn where he wouldn’t get flattened.

We were walking now.

Passing a 200ft radio tower, the noise of it humming in the wind was unreal. The windward guy wires were taut under the immense strain, whilst to the leeward they were somewhat slack.

At one point a forty four gallon drum was being hurled down the road.

We were so lucky there were not dwellings about.

Any debris being blown about would have been deadly. Soon things got worse. Sand was not the only soil matter airborne, small pebbles were now being coming to greet us in the wind. My fingers were getting pelted.

Visibility was now permanently no more the 20m.

Coming to the narrow 250m concrete bridge that crossed the Rio Grande, crossing it meant being side onto the wind.

It was deadly, the air stream was funneling down from the mountains.

Making sure I was on the upwind side of the bike. I began to cross, at least, there was no dust being picked up of the riverbed. My bike was being moving alongside me at 45° just to stop it from being caught in the airstream.

If it rounded up there was a chance it could have got through the handrail on the other side of the bridge.

A couple of cars crossed, that’s when I really leaned it into my body, on a couple of occasions I ended up in the middle of the bridge when caught in a gust.

Once across a car was stopped to ask where the police station was. Thankfully it was just ahead in the trees under the hill.

Parking the bike on a hell of a lean on the leeward side of a guard rail, I walked back over the bridge to wait for Dorothy.

Soon her yellow coat came into view.

A guy stopped to ask if she wanted to put the bike in his pick up. I said we were staying at the police station just across the bridge.

I hung onto the back of her bike as we crossed again. Once across, another 200m and we were in the refuge of a garage at the police station Bardas Blancas.

It took us three hours to do 5kms.

What we had just experienced was almost unreal. It was most certainly the strongest wind I have been in. Even stronger than that on the salar in Bolivia.

Jose the local cop welcomed us. The bike rider Ceasar,  from Santiago in Chile, was already inside.

The local lock up was like a castle.

We had a hot shower and ate.

The shower did not have the power to wash the dust from our hair.

We were both thinking of what the night might have been like out in the elements. Those thoughts were not elaborated on.

Jose told us these weather events are not rare out here.

Snow comes up to window height in winter.

We had a room and a couple of beds to ourselves. We were so so lucky to be cosy in the warm concrete building.

Still the wind blew outside.

To the east was a huge storm cell. The high pressure was being sucked into the low pressure, this caused the event.

Dorothy couldn’t believe her legs were not bleeding though she did have a few cuts.

  21/10/2013 Badas Blancas to adobe hut at Las Frisas

D82, T4.5, 7, Av16.93, Max67, Tot21028, 11227

Magic day and evening

 

We both slept well, Jose had given us a room with a couple of beds, we were so lucky. We could just as easy have been under a bridge.

Ceasar thanked me for telling him to come to the police station. He gave me a great big hug and looked me in the eye, a look, that said thanks so much for stopping me on the road.

 I inturn passed this kind of heartfelt thanks to Jose with a big hug and heartfelt thanks.

Ceasar like us, was very lucky to have warm shelter for the night.

He got away before us.

I had a puncture to repair, a piece of wire from a steel belted radial was the culprit causing the slow leak.

 The day outside was crystal clear. The sort of day you usually have after that of extreme weather.

We both completely emptied our bar bags to remove all the sand.

Finally getting away about 0930. It was such a pleasure riding after yesterday. Great scenery and an undulating ride following the Rio Grande.

The road was under repair, so initially there were patches of tar and gravel.

On our left was the open river valley and to the right, the ever present Andes and their foothills that keep you company on much of Ruta 40 ridden so far.

There was fresh snow on the higher peaks after yesterdays effort by the weather.

This part of AR is rich in oil, another field was passed. Guanacos pumping the viscous fluid were passed working on dirt pads on the slopes above the road.

A couple of truck drivers at the bridge crossing of the Rio Grande told me they have the same name as the animals. Guanaco 1 and 2, they said.

The river was running brown from erosion up stream. Normal here, I am told.

A couple Brazilian guys travelling in a four wheel drive stopped to chat. They gave us a foldable toothbrush each of all things.

At the end of the tar we stopped for lunch, a cup of tea and the obligatory sardines.

Lubricants for my knees.

A huge number of industrious tiny ants found my food. They were busy making the most of this rare opportunity, carrying of every bit of cracker biscuit they could wrap their pincers around.

From here, the road became gravel. Soft in spots and constructed with round river stones. With a slight tail wind and much of it downhill, one could not complain. Traffic was light.

A couple of Gauchos and their dogs were seen crossing the road and riding off into the scrub. One bunch of dogs found me interesting and took up the chase.

At one point while waiting for Dorothy, a Condor was watched with elated emotion as it cruised overhead on the high thermals. He covered so much ground in such a short time, not a wing was moved.

This symbol, the snow covered Andes to our west, with weathered red brown hills and ranges to our east, capsulising vast open treeless spaces between. This epitomises the vistas on this part of Ruta Cuarenta, here in Western Argentina.

What a special place to be free to contemplate all this nature.

In some respects, I feel the freedom this great bird has in the skies, was twinned on the ground with my presence here.

At another corner waiting for Dorothy, by now, we were both quite worn out. It was 1730 in the evening.

She came round the corner and wiped out in soft spot. On picking her bike up, she found the rear rack had broken free at one of the bottom bolts. One up by the seat was also loose.

The bottom one had snapped off.

Ever so lucky we were able to unscrew the piece left in the thread. Locktite which I use is great, but in this situation we would have been in trouble.

Two spacers had been lost in the process.

The two from the other side were used, the broken side was more important, so as to protect the Rolhof gear cables.

On the other side an occy strap hook sufficed for a spacer. All was good, half an hour later it was a done job.

Whilst unpacking her gear to get the spares, sand from yesterday was everywhere

inside the pannier.

We needed water, a couple touring in an old Hilux were stopped, they were from Texas. Kindly they gave us water we needed. They had the inside of the wagon set up so well. Having been on the road a couple of years.

Travelling in this older type vehicle, they not once had been told to pay ridiculous fees at border crossings.

Unlike a guy I met who had a big Merc four wheel drive who got fleeced at every border crossing. Fair game I figure.

By now it was 1900 and we were in camp finding mode.

Both tired, the country was littered with volcanic rock, much of it jet black.

No wonder, there were two visible peaks both with their tops blown off in our vicinity.

It was impossible to put a tent up on the jagged fragments  littering the ground.

Along one straight stretch of the corrugated gravel road, a couple of old adobe houses were seen some 150m off the road.

 Riding in on the rough track, we had indeed found the nights camp spot.

A colourful sky saw the day finish, the wind also dropped down.

We set  our respective tents and ate immediately. Both of us were worn out.

Dorothy is a strong rider and very capable as expected. We enjoy stirring each other up a bit. Though always finishing with a good laugh.

We enjoy each other’s company, both being about the same age.

Though I get reminded of my age, I keep telling her she has got many miles left in her!

She told me that during the worst of yesterday’s tempest, two people had stopped to asked if she wanted a lift. Their offers had been turned down. They were told she had a friend riding further up the road.

She is that kind of person.

The two dwellings are from a time when someone must have etched out an existence here.

There were bones and horns from goats scattered about. Obviously providing meat for whoever lived here.

There was a one room sleeping quarter and a small cookhouse alongside with a fireplace also made of adobe in one corner.

We cooked our meals in here out of the light breeze.

I have been using petrol now for a few days in my stove.

When priming it burns yellow with much black sooty smoke.

Once primed it is as good as any fuel and very hot. I clean the soot of each time, so things are not to messy.

The only problem is the smell of petrol when you remove the pump and store it. It is now kept in a plastic bag to keep the odour out of the food.

We sat around and chatted. Dorothy updated her diary. I enjoyed half   a pot of hot water topping up my Mate. We took heaps of photos as the sky kept changing colours till well after 2000 as the sun disappeared beyond the ranges to our west.

It had been such an enjoyable day after yesterday.

In that fierce wind yesterday, the strongest I have ever been in.

Along with receiving the biggest sandblasting by wind blown silt. At no time was the wish to be in a comfortable home somewhere contemplated more than fleetingly.

To feel like this could be a bit soul destroying when the going gets tough.

Days like today make it all worthwhile.

Had thoughts like that been reality, I still would have been in that cosy lounge room today.

In turn, missing out on all the beauty and the wonder  out here the next day had to offer.

The good has to be taken with the bad, in the end the good and positive will always prevails.

Having experienced yesterdays hand out from nature and all its hardship. It makes me think how important is to be doing something you are passionate about, something that stimulates you and is rewarding.

When there are times that really draw on your resources and strengths, both physically and mentally. It is then, you know if you are doing something that is right for you.

Yesterday, I knew the wind could buffet me with all her might, batter me with sand, rob me of my visibility and balance at times.

I then realised, importantly she couldn’t damaged my spirit. A spirit that enabled me to  endure the onslaught and come out the other side a stronger, more reflective  person.

A person slightly richer in life’s experiences.

A person with ears, eyes, hair, shoes, underwear and clothing full of bloody sand and dust!

The evening was comfortably cool, with a light breeze, silhouettes of the surrounding ranges and their peaks graced the end of another day here on Argentina’s famous Ruta 40.

PictureEl Rushmore de Argentina! con tu imaginación

PictureLa mujere de la casa

PictureDespues de la tormenta

PictureEl puente, Rio grande el dia proximo, muy tranquilo

PictureAfuera Bardas Blancas

PictureLos arroyos y rios fueron muy sucio, pero solamente con cieno

PictureRio Grande

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Picture

PictureLos colores en el cielo estuvieron muy especial

PictureEn el garaje con José, estacionar de policia Bardas Blancas

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Pictureun guanaco trabajando cerca Bardas Blancas

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PictureLas casas fueron muy muy pequena en este mundo

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