browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
6-7/12/2013 Quellón to river near glacier Yeicho Chica

D70, T4/6, Av16, Max54, Tot 22896,  13099

Overcast, mild

The couple of days at the Hostal Miramar were relaxing to say the least, washing was done. The internet enjoyed and the wait for the ferry was all worth it.

We got onboard, there were 5 other cyclists onboard, among other travellers.

We spent time talking with an interesting couple from Oregon. They were avid bird watchers.

Just a couple of names, The Spur Winged Plover was called a Southern Lapwing. The bird that sounded like a wood duck nesting in all the trees was a Black Faced Ibis, (Bandurria).

It was an easy 4 and three quarter hour trip. The ferries work with regards to the tides. We arrived early and had to wait for the tide. By now it was midnight and the crew said we could sleep onboard. A few of us took up this offer.

Needless to say. Walking around Chaiten at midnight looking for a place to stay was not a good thought.

Cal and I enjoyed a red wine and sleep a few hours before daylight.

We rode off the ferry at 0700, headed into town and down to the beach to cook breakfast. The flat sandy rock strewn beach was littered with dead trees. Most likely from the volcanic eruption here in 2008. The town of Chaiten was covered in ash.

We met a guy who is walking everywhere, he is from the UK, he speaks at schools about the environment and generally sleeps at fire stations. 20,000km on foot.

He had old tyres stuck to the soles of his shoes.

We also spoke to a French couple older than (he was 70) me who were riding south, who we will most likely see again.  

On the beach a French guy came along for a chat, we had met him on the ferry. We knocked up a filtered coffee for him . He was wrapped , his first proper coffee in weeks he said.

From here, we spent time chatting to a Swiss couple who had a rent a van. Really nice people.

Buying bread saw us leave town and join the famous Carraterra Austral  for the first real look at Patagonia in the raw.

After having spent 10 days on Chiloé with the scenery mostly farm land. This was such a welcome.

From the moment we left town on the newly asphalted road, surrounded by high ranges with opaque rocky faces you could just feel the aura of Patagonia in the atmosphere.

The vegetation was lush, water everywhere and snow top ranges alongside the road.

Cal and I were so pleased to be back in the wilderness again. Touring bikes in urban areas just don’t feel the same.

The riding was sheer pleasure following the valley aided by a tidy little northerly. 

We spent time riding with a couple of American guys till the turnoff to Tremus El Amarillo.

From here,  we still had the pleasure of a newly constructed road surface. We bumped into a Brazillian guy who was walking with a trailer and a suitcase. Great young guy. He was married and doing this before he goes home to start a family.

Soon we got to Puente Yelcho, this marks the end of the asphalt. Under the bridge we enjoyed bread and Dulce. The bridge was an old suspension bridge beneath it the Rio Yelcho, a huge river drained Lago Yelcho Lonconao.

In some ways it was nice to be back on gravel, it added to the remoteness of the surrounds. The surface was good.

Patchy cloud covered most or the mountain tops. At one point, a  glacier in a mountain valley came into view.

We camped just up the road from Glacier Yeicho Chica on the confluence of two streams one glacier fed and the other clear from springs and snow melt

Cal caught 4  trout, these were enjoyed everso fresh.

Our first night on the Austral was hopefully a taste of things to come. The sound of the rivers was great to fall asleep to.

8/12/2013 Glacier Yeicho Chica to 3km sth of Villa Santa Lucia

D26, T2.5/5, Av10, Max42, Tot22,921, 13,125

Cloudy start then brilliant sunny day

The morning greeted us with low cloud over the ranges, yesterday we had made arrangements to walk to Glacia Yecho Chica.

We were a bit reluctant to walk up if we were going to be shrouded in cloud. Anyway by the time we got packed, had another fish and let the tents dry, the cloud began to lift.

Once at the walking track, some 500m back from our river camp we spoke with the guide.

He everso kindly let us lock our bikes in a shed.

The day was getting better by the minute with the cloud breaking in many places.

The track was well marked and many common trees were named, it was great.

So just to brief you on a couple of trees here in Patagonia. The most iconic tree , the one with the kind of layered small leafed foliage is the Coigúe and another common larger leafed tree is the Canelo, The Manio is a type pine of tree with needles.

The Coigúe grow huge, they symbolise the bush here at present.

The Nalcas are still everywhere there is water.

Walking through the bush was like a rainforest experience, that of moss and all shades of green, though this was temperate to say the least.

The milky glacier feed river roared throughout the whole walk as we followed it to its source.

Once out of the forest. Our marked tracked ended and we were confronted with a huge amphitheatre, where the stage was shattered rock on screes littered with timber. The middle of the stage contained the roaring creeks from both glaciers, other creeks feed only by melt were finding their way down through the jiggered rocks.

Waterfalls cascaded where there were no glaciers in the valley.

The larger glacier Yeicho Chico (I asked the guide on our return why, as it was the larger of the two). Was brilliantly white and fractured every which way.

Yeichio, to the left and higher, was covered in dirt, possibly from wind blown debris.

Our walk across this theatre took us through wet areas, across unstable rock screes and rock hopping small water courses.

It took two hours of fast walking to get as close as we could without jeopardizing our safety.

Here we ate sardines and vegemite and just marvelled at nature only on the scale Patagonia can present.

Forest grew almost to the snow line.

Large area of bare rock on the slopes told stories of huge land slides.

At one point a large rumble was heard as some pressure somewhere above was released in the ice.

Looking back down the valley to the Carraterra Austral were more snowclad mountains with glimpses of a lake east of the road.

At one point out of the valley between us and the glacier, a Condor was aloft, its shape was small against the immenseness of the mountain side cradling the glacier.

Cal and I were awe struck at what was around us. We were still at least 1500m from the terminus of Yeicho Chico.

By now it was clear and awfully hot, our butter was now just a yellowish oily liquid.

One the way back we drank from a cold arroyito (small stream), the water like an elixir. Cold, sweet and refreshing, especially one our sweaty faces and hair.

It took us 4 hours to do the walk, the guy back at the camp area said we were quick.

We were fairly worn out. My knees were trashed after the difficult walk down the loose rocky screes.

We packed the bikes and got back on the CA at 1400 hours.

One of the most desirable aspects of this walk is there were no other people.

A couple of other cyclists were at the camp area, a brief exchange took place.

The road was flat for a while, then climbed and kept climbing often on loose gravel, bloody hard work.

Arroyitos were everywhere.

As were the infamous Patagonian horse flies, at slow speeds, the buggers could follow us. They were especially keen on biting me through my woollen gloves. Their destruction was the only way to get rid of individuals if they were hell bent on biting you.

“Water water everywhere and all of it to drink”. No need for my water filter here.

Going up one hill, my music very loud in my earphones, there was a sound like a gunshot. It scared the shit out of me.

It was my back tyre, a stone had ruptured it.

Luckily I had a new Schwable  Dureme with me . This took us nearly an hour to change.

The two German cyclists, Sven and Sabina came by, we talked for awhile , they went on up the hill.

Once one the road again we caught up with the others at the top.

Coming down was just as difficult though more dangerous in the loose gravel, the brakes were on all the way.

Once at Villa Santa Lucia we used the net and tried to find bread without luck.

I am getting a new tent so have to make arrangements to transfer funds to a Chilean account.

My Vango, though it has served me well for a couple of years, I doubt its ability to withstanding torrential rain or wind.

Out Chile’s Hernan just happens to have a Hilleberg Tarra in stock, so I grabbed it.

This two man tent is like the Rolls Royce of tents, built to withstand all nature can throw at it.

I feel the cost is nothing as it is like my home. Like all homeowners I want to be comfortable, warm and dry.

This tent has the capabilities to provide these 3 necessities.

After Villa Santa Lucia, we met Sven and Sabina again and decided to camp together. They had lemons, we had a fishing rod.

We found a great camp in a disused military area on the Rio Frio, aptly named, I might add

The glacier and melt fed river was racing past our riparian campsite.

The evening was crystal clear. We all headed out into the open space and star gazed for sometime. Easily seeing the southern cross and the pot in the clear Patagonian sky.

For Callum and I we had spent a day overdosing one Patagonia beauty and remoteness.

A day of hard walking and hard riding, a day very special in a special part of our planet.

We had fried potatoes and soup for dinner, the trout were not so obliging in the slightly milky waters, they can’t see the lures so clearly.

 We were all in bed about 2300. Sleep overcame us like a wavelet on an incoming tide across  damp sand.

8/12/2013 Villa Santa Lucia to 20km nth of La Junta

D61, T5.5/10, Av10.64, Max42, Tot 22982, 13,186

Brilliant day

I was up early typing under a tree out of the dew over a coffee, Sabina and Sven were soon up.

Their tent a Nallo GT was suffering from heavy condensation on the inside of the fly. Sven and I worked out it could have been designed with a top vent. The lower vents did not allow the warm air generated by them to escape.

The sun got to us about 0730 and began drying things out.

We were all on the road before 1000, they left a bit before Cal and I.

To say the road was not hard going would have been a lie.

With the road works, there were loose river stones, soft patches, sand, hard patches, side tracks, but no asphalt.

The dust generated by the passing trucks was thick and course.

Our chains needed oiling a few times during the day.

We were catching the others on and off and would stop on a bridge for  a chat.

At Villa Vanguardia Cal and I pulled in and found some bread. The lady at a comedor was feeding the road workers. We enjoyed a jug of orange juice to wash the dust away.

From here, still battling every imaginable road surface except asphalt and swamp we came to a farm house overlooking Rio Pelena.

I asked the farmer if we could lunch down by the river and have a fish, no problems.

There was later, to be a problem, however.

The spot we had lunch was the stuff postcards from Patagonia are made of, that consisting of a turquoise river, lush forest and white topped mountains keeping it all intact.

Cal headed down for a fish, the river was really too large for our little lures, he had a couple of tiddlers on .

In the meantime, a bull calf had found our bikes interesting and was nudging them with his head.

It was becoming a major dilemma. His horns were capable of ripping the panniers. He pushed both bikes over a couple of times. He was also interested in our food and cooking items.

Not wanting to stir him up I kept moving the bikes and trying to distract him with other things.

My fear was he might get excited and do some real damage. The potential for mayhem was in the making.

Cal headed up from the river, we hurriedly packed and split.

I told the farmer about out dilemma, he had a good laugh.

Luckily we got away unscathed, it’s amazing what a set of balls can do to the behaviour of a cattle beast.

Further down the road in a corral, a bunch of beret clad characters were lassoing calves as they ran around the inside of the enclosure.

It was classic, guachos were sitting on the top rail around the pen. Chicha was going around, to me also.

The idea was about 6 guys with leather lassos would stand in the middle, while a horseman stirred up the beast to run around the perimeter. They would all try to lasso it.

The trick was to bound a loop off the ground and catch the front legs and trip the animal over. They were mostly castrated animals less than 2 years old.

Some guys reeled in pain when they could trip it over, for their end of the lasso would peel through their hands delivering rope burn during its rapid passage.

They were skilled horse and cattlemen.

If the loop got both legs the animal would come down rapidly.

All this was to administer a vaccine to the animal, once on the ground then it was freed into the paddock.

Good fun.

They let a medium size bull calf go. It was all on, the animal not content to just run was charging the guys. It took a liking to one guy inparticular he was lucky to come away unscathed.

It was a great insight into local life out here. This is a bi annual event.

From here the road didn’t change. Callum was feeling the effort required, he was having some dizzy spells and beginning to not enjoy it.

Encouragement came from me.

For the uninitiated, there are not many occasions when you would voluntarily choose to lug 50 odd kg over this kind of road.

In this situation, it is the destination and the rewards both physically and other, that make you do this.

We came across the French couple camping on the side of the road at 1930. We stopped to talk for awhile.

For us, Patagonia was not about camping 10 metres from a dusty road  in full view of traffic.

We would have liked to have joined them as we were both trashed, especially Cal who was now walking in places.

Some 3 km past them we came to a farm house.

I wandered in to talk with the owner, a woman came to the door, she was very friendly and said we could camp there, I said we would camp by a shed , when asking about water she said go down to the river.

Well after going through 4 Taranaki gates we got to paradise.

The kind of place people travel miles to camp at.

Lush grass overlooking a huge silent body of water, the Rio Palena,  making its way to the Pacific ocean. On both sides, east and west were snow clad ranges.

Condors were cruising the evening sky, by now the time was 2100, they are becoming a reasonably common sight, though they are on thermals everso high. Their fingered wing tips and white neck identify them.

Once camp was set up, by now 2130, we went down to the little riverside beach, I took the plunge whilst cal just washed the dust and sweat off his legs and face.

Dinner was rice, tuna and a sauce.

Heaps of it!

It had been a huge tiring day, the road and the concentration required to stay upright had left us totally worn out.

Before dinner we had coffee and demolished a pack of water crackers and vegemite just to have the energy to actually eat dinner.

We were in bed at 2230.

It is now still partially light till after ten oclock.

 There is no urgency to start riding too early. This is great.

My rear wheel has its first broken spoke which will need to be replaced in the morning, luckily it is not on the cassette side.

PictureArriving on the mainland

PictureNative fuschia

PictureSome sections of the roadworks were difficult with the loose river stones on the surface

PictureA novel way to catch calves for vaccination. it appeared to be a great way to get the community together.

PictureThe two glaciers, from Cals camera. We walked up tp the green patches infront of the ridge to Yeicho Chica on the right.

PicturePuyuhuapi

PictureGuy, Tina and family at Piedra del gato

PictureFirst night by glaciers.

PictureGlacier Yeicho Chic and Yeicho to the left

PictureThe walking track up to the glaciers

PictureSabina and Sven joined us at Villa Santa Lucia on the Rio Frio

Pictureriverside camping on the farm near La Junta

Picturecamping above the Rio Cisnes near Piedra el Gato

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