Early in the journey
Looking east to the Andes.
20/4/2013 Macará, EC to Chulucanas, PE
D129, T6.51,9.5, Av18.73, Max58 Tot13074, from Medellín 3077
Hot, dry, light SW'ers, roads flat
An easy ride was enjoyed to the border, it was low keyed, I rode straight past the Ecuadoreano migration office, Perus’ was similar.
It was kind of sad to be leaving Ecuador, though in a few days immersion in Peru will have taken hold, that is a given.
Anyway, it was hard to believe the difference in terrain, Peru was flat with the odd gentle rise. It was good fast riding.
Noticeable in their absence were cars and other traffic. The roads, nowhere near as wide and without proper shoulders were however well surfaced and smooth.
The age of the cars was also much older than in Ecuador
Not since Buga to Cali in Colombia has the riding been like this. It was a pleasure.
The Peruanos went out of their way to greet me. They see lots of cyclists on this road.
Buses were also few and far between. Wildlife consisted of mules, goats and turkeys whilst above vultures continually soared ever after the unfortunate.
Lunch was enjoyed at Tambo Grande, the owner joined me, he had just the two cutest twin granddaughters.
Back in Nicaragua, there were small towns that had clusters of moto taxis. I liken them to wasps. Generally in CO and EC they are not common.
Here in Tambo Grande there was a huge wasp nest, they were everywhere.
There were a couple of river cossings on the way south, nothing big, though had one been here a month earlier it might have been different.
The few rivers were running clear, many people were washing in their waters. Nearing Chulucanas, a flat tyre stopped proceedings, it was 1700hrs.
It gets dark here at about 1830, it is not good to be hunting around for a motel in the dark.
It was important to stop at every small town to buy something to drink.
Anyway pulling into a track in a rice paddy some young girls came out of the paddys for a chat.
They kindly took the tube to their house and found the hole using water. Soon on my way, a motel was booked, though not before complaining about the expense. The price was in Soles of course. I was calculating in dollars.
Dinner was had at a restaurant recommended as was a couple of ice creams and a relax in the park for an hour.
Saturday night brings everyone down to the park area in town. The town streets were overrun with wasps, it was dangerous crossing the road
The Fogata restaurant here is well worth a visit, nothing flash but good food.
It had been a big day in the sun with constant peddling.
21/4/2013 Chulucanas to Olmos
D127, 7hs actual 10hrs, Av18.11, Max61, Tot13202, 3199
Hot, dry with Light sou wester
Up early, breakfast was enjoyed on the street, chicharon, (decadently shallow fried pork pieces) my favourite indulgence after coca cola was enjoyed.
It’s so nice knowing you can eat what you like without any weight issues, ‘cause it is all getting burnt straight off. This among many other things is one of the true pleasures of long distance riding.
Again the road was flat.
Leaving town I rode for a few km with a guy and his mule pulling a cart. The mules start work at two years and work till about twelve, he feeds him a little bit all day.
They had a special relationship, this was noticed spending time with them.
This road skirts along the eastern edge of the desert that the Pan Am crosses going south from Ecuador.
It is not as harsh as further west.
The vegetation was mainly acacias and low shrubs, many having thorns.
It was literally running a gauntlet of mules and goats. They were everywhere and in no hurry to leave the road on approach. Even on a bike at 20km/hr it was dodgey working out their next move, especially young goats.
Many dark patches on the road revealed where one had made contact with in most cases trucks. Traffic was almost non existent away from towns with only unladen semis heading north.
As soon as a few wasps were spotted, a town was nearby, they don’t venture to far from the nest.
Many houses near the towns had wasps living with the owners of the house, my guess is many colonies are over populated. Many were idle.
I have noticed people charging different prices for drinks, so far coke has ranged from 2 soles down to cincuenta centavos.
Further south the environment was becoming more harsh with tall cacti present and the soil was reduced to sand.
At Cascajal pulling in for a drink a good chat was had with a few people about the farming practices here. Evidently, they have discovered good underground water and the future is good here, especially near Olmos where the soils improve.
Anyway, a few drinks were bought, on leaving my front tyre was flat, kindly they let me change it under the awning out of the sun. Here in this part of Peru it seems you generally have big audiences when doing something like this. Here was no exception.
A spine had been the culprit, these are even worse on the Pan Am to the west.
Before I left, the owner about my age and a great guy, gave me a cool drink of chicha, the local fermented but non alcoholic drink made with maize.
He said it was 1 hr on bike to Olmos.
Riding on, it was found the front tyre still had a very slow leak, it would give me 15 mins of riding before the addition of air was needed. This I could put up with.
Soon I was getting fairly tired to say the least, some other guys drinking on their front porch called me in to join them. There first offer was aquadiente, they reckon it would make me go faster.
Their second offer was icy cicha, it was gladly accepted. They said it was 10km to town, still a fair way at 1630hrs.
This last stretch was rich in horticulture, mangoes, corn and other crops growing in richer soils.
To the west were tall jagged mountains arising from the flat lands. The to the east were the Andes.
Leaving here the plan is to head east to this range and ride to Chachapoyas across the Andes. This is some 350km.
From there it is back across the Andes at heights of 4000m south down to Cajamarca, about 330km.
It will be interesting to say the least, my chances of bumping into riding companions other the the 4 legged type maybe slim. Camping should be my main accommodation for the couple of weeks it may take.
Two days were spent here in Olmos, resting. The rear tyre was replaced, having lasted from Barranquilla in Colombia, a new tube was put in each tyre and everything fully checked, brakes serviced and all cables oiled.
The food was great here in town as was the Los Portales Hostel. Washing was also done. A Peruvian sim card was bought in case of emergency.
D129, T6.51,9.5, Av18.73, Max58 Tot13074, from Medellín 3077
Hot, dry, light SW'ers, roads flat
An easy ride was enjoyed to the border, it was low keyed, I rode straight past the Ecuadoreano migration office, Perus’ was similar.
It was kind of sad to be leaving Ecuador, though in a few days immersion in Peru will have taken hold, that is a given.
Anyway, it was hard to believe the difference in terrain, Peru was flat with the odd gentle rise. It was good fast riding.
Noticeable in their absence were cars and other traffic. The roads, nowhere near as wide and without proper shoulders were however well surfaced and smooth.
The age of the cars was also much older than in Ecuador
Not since Buga to Cali in Colombia has the riding been like this. It was a pleasure.
The Peruanos went out of their way to greet me. They see lots of cyclists on this road.
Buses were also few and far between. Wildlife consisted of mules, goats and turkeys whilst above vultures continually soared ever after the unfortunate.
Lunch was enjoyed at Tambo Grande, the owner joined me, he had just the two cutest twin granddaughters.
Back in Nicaragua, there were small towns that had clusters of moto taxis. I liken them to wasps. Generally in CO and EC they are not common.
Here in Tambo Grande there was a huge wasp nest, they were everywhere.
There were a couple of river cossings on the way south, nothing big, though had one been here a month earlier it might have been different.
The few rivers were running clear, many people were washing in their waters. Nearing Chulucanas, a flat tyre stopped proceedings, it was 1700hrs.
It gets dark here at about 1830, it is not good to be hunting around for a motel in the dark.
It was important to stop at every small town to buy something to drink.
Anyway pulling into a track in a rice paddy some young girls came out of the paddys for a chat.
They kindly took the tube to their house and found the hole using water. Soon on my way, a motel was booked, though not before complaining about the expense. The price was in Soles of course. I was calculating in dollars.
Dinner was had at a restaurant recommended as was a couple of ice creams and a relax in the park for an hour.
Saturday night brings everyone down to the park area in town. The town streets were overrun with wasps, it was dangerous crossing the road
The Fogata restaurant here is well worth a visit, nothing flash but good food.
It had been a big day in the sun with constant peddling.
21/4/2013 Chulucanas to Olmos
D127, 7hs actual 10hrs, Av18.11, Max61, Tot13202, 3199
Hot, dry with Light sou wester
Up early, breakfast was enjoyed on the street, chicharon, (decadently shallow fried pork pieces) my favourite indulgence after coca cola was enjoyed.
It’s so nice knowing you can eat what you like without any weight issues, ‘cause it is all getting burnt straight off. This among many other things is one of the true pleasures of long distance riding.
Again the road was flat.
Leaving town I rode for a few km with a guy and his mule pulling a cart. The mules start work at two years and work till about twelve, he feeds him a little bit all day.
They had a special relationship, this was noticed spending time with them.
This road skirts along the eastern edge of the desert that the Pan Am crosses going south from Ecuador.
It is not as harsh as further west.
The vegetation was mainly acacias and low shrubs, many having thorns.
It was literally running a gauntlet of mules and goats. They were everywhere and in no hurry to leave the road on approach. Even on a bike at 20km/hr it was dodgey working out their next move, especially young goats.
Many dark patches on the road revealed where one had made contact with in most cases trucks. Traffic was almost non existent away from towns with only unladen semis heading north.
As soon as a few wasps were spotted, a town was nearby, they don’t venture to far from the nest.
Many houses near the towns had wasps living with the owners of the house, my guess is many colonies are over populated. Many were idle.
I have noticed people charging different prices for drinks, so far coke has ranged from 2 soles down to cincuenta centavos.
Further south the environment was becoming more harsh with tall cacti present and the soil was reduced to sand.
At Cascajal pulling in for a drink a good chat was had with a few people about the farming practices here. Evidently, they have discovered good underground water and the future is good here, especially near Olmos where the soils improve.
Anyway, a few drinks were bought, on leaving my front tyre was flat, kindly they let me change it under the awning out of the sun. Here in this part of Peru it seems you generally have big audiences when doing something like this. Here was no exception.
A spine had been the culprit, these are even worse on the Pan Am to the west.
Before I left, the owner about my age and a great guy, gave me a cool drink of chicha, the local fermented but non alcoholic drink made with maize.
He said it was 1 hr on bike to Olmos.
Riding on, it was found the front tyre still had a very slow leak, it would give me 15 mins of riding before the addition of air was needed. This I could put up with.
Soon I was getting fairly tired to say the least, some other guys drinking on their front porch called me in to join them. There first offer was aquadiente, they reckon it would make me go faster.
Their second offer was icy cicha, it was gladly accepted. They said it was 10km to town, still a fair way at 1630hrs.
This last stretch was rich in horticulture, mangoes, corn and other crops growing in richer soils.
To the west were tall jagged mountains arising from the flat lands. The to the east were the Andes.
Leaving here the plan is to head east to this range and ride to Chachapoyas across the Andes. This is some 350km.
From there it is back across the Andes at heights of 4000m south down to Cajamarca, about 330km.
It will be interesting to say the least, my chances of bumping into riding companions other the the 4 legged type maybe slim. Camping should be my main accommodation for the couple of weeks it may take.
Two days were spent here in Olmos, resting. The rear tyre was replaced, having lasted from Barranquilla in Colombia, a new tube was put in each tyre and everything fully checked, brakes serviced and all cables oiled.
The food was great here in town as was the Los Portales Hostel. Washing was also done. A Peruvian sim card was bought in case of emergency.
First river encountered in Peru. Rio Quiroz
Grapes for white wine south of Tambo Grande
Typical roadside tienda enroute
Typical produce stall.Olmos.
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River crossing and popular washing spot for locals,there was another way round that was a bit drier, though my shoes still came off.
A common site.
Good mates, he carried food for the mule in the cart.
Resources are limited out here.
Downtown Olmos looking west
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