browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya

300km by late model dual cab Hilux ute

2100 to 0515hrs

Due to the late departure, 200 shillings or bob as they call it here, was given to the lovely lady that was in charge of cleaning the rooms. She was a large woman with a sense of humour almost as big. Her and her crew were always bending over wide shallow tubs washing all the bedding mid morning each day.

This was to allow me to use the room all day. A small price to pay to be under the comfort of the fan.

Commencement of packing my gear began about 1730, a good going over of everything was needed. This opportunity to get things bought from Australia by my sons Ben and Callum is not to be missed.

Many things are now beginning show signs of wear or have simply just broken.

My sunglasses have cracked at the nose bridge area, buckles on my panniers are breaking free, my stove has failed, my old billy leaks, the side pockets on my bar bag are delaminating. My small Logitech Mini Boombox speaker only works on Bluetooth, the jack socket has failed, all these and other minor things can now be replaced or repaired with spare parts.

Nearing departure time, a bucket shower was taken. Having to carry the tub from the tap to the shower area is not helping my sore back. Mind you, it is definitely getting better.

Yesterday, a visit had been made to the booking centre for the ride to Kitale. They were told about my bicycle and gear. There are a few companies offering this trip. Pedro opted for a company that used long wheelbase Landcruisers. These vehicles carrying up to 10 people, gear was stowed on the roof racks. They charged 2000KS.

The company I chose only took four passengers in each vehicle and used dual cab tray back vehicles. They charged 2500KS.

This 300km journey to Kitale is infamous for roadside attacks by the Pokot people, and its roughness.

The former was not experienced, the latter will never be forgotten.

Fellow cyclist Oliver from Switzerland bravely rode the passage some few weeks ago. He said it was the worst road he had ever ridden.

Pedro and I could have done the same. However, for me, my reason for choosing not to, was that, if anything happened on the way, I would be letting down my two sons, Ben and Callum down, big time. They are arriving in Nairobi later in the month with their bicycles. Together we are riding to Cape Town.

In this respect, this reasonability alone, was instrumental in the decision not to ride the stretch.

My sore back was another reason, along the possible dangers.

Once packed and feeling somewhat refreshed after the cooling water poured on me from a cut off water bottle, the short walk to the departure depot at the gas station was made.

Here I chatted with the guys. The vehicles they used were infact late model diesel dual cab Hiluxes.

Having owned a couple of Hilux utes, their reliability and ruggedness was not questioned, it was nice to see that they had good heavily grooved wide tyres fitted. All four were almost new. These guys were not cutting corners.

The tray was already half full of cardboard boxes bound with hessian line.

They assumed the bike would fit the length of the tray, I told them it would not. We moved the boxes to allow it to be loaded on an angle across the tray.

Three of us lifted it on fully loaded. The front panniers were removed, it was leant against the boxes. The rear port pannier was taking most of the weight and a heavy carton was on the base of the front wheel. I helped lash it securely.

Everything was lashed once, then again, using the hessian rope from a pile of it in the tray.

Everything in the tray was now hopefully secure, it was now part of the vehicle and would ride with it.

The driver was a guy of about 30ish. Daniel didn’t say much. My bar bag and a water bottle were put on the floor of the front seat.

I was letting people know where my choice of seat for the journey was. The other passengers were two women and a man. They were going to a meeting in Kitale. They would occupy the rear seat.

It was known, that this road, like the one north to Kalokol, we had ridden, was broken asphalt and gravel, and even rougher.

It was also known that it was notorious for roadside armed attacks by the Pokot that occupy much of the land it passes through.

The Pokot people and the Turkana people have been warring forever, it seems. Often over pasture rights. They steal each other’s cattle especially to provide dowries, which are often required prior to marriage.

Rhoda was saying the Pokot are particularly violent people, she is Turkana, she had almost nothing to say about them that was nice.

I interrupted, and said there must be nice people amongst them. Her comments were to be expected coming from a Turkana person.

We all climbed aboard into our respective seats.

As soon as we left the town, the road deteriorated into a track with pothole ridden asphalt down the centre and trenched rough, often corrugated gravel tracks on both sides.

The meeting point of the old asphalt and the gravel was defined by a sharp step down to the earthen surface, of 150mm or more. The potholes in the asphalt were deep enough to damage a rim on a tyre, not properly inflated or worn, hitting it at excessive speed.  

I had put my seat belt on. My upper chest was constantly being thrown against this restraint.

We were travelling in a convoy of seven vehicles but were only followed closely by another Hilux from the same company, we changed lead on many occasions, just to share the dust around.

 No one spoke, we were all just hanging on. The driver later told me he had been doing this trip for 5 years. He had only been attacked once when he was driving a bus prior to this position. There they robbed all onboard.

He told me, they need to replace the shock absorbers every two months.

Incidentally, this company, the name of which is forgotten, operate out of the gas station closest to the Africana hotel.

My mind was on how the bike was taking the wild movement that the road surface was creating.

Had the right thing been done. To leave the panniers on the rear? Would this weight put stress on the frame? Would the chaffing wear a hole in the port pannier? Would the derailleur be ok should a box move? The list went on.

All the while, the driver was changing gears and making a few calls to the other vehicle. We were constantly from one side of the track to the other. Slowing down under brakes when a shadow up ahead indicated a deep hole.

At times one side of the vehicle would be up on the crooked edged asphalt and the other much lower, bouncing through the wildly undulating gravel.

Every joint in my body was let go of, my body flaccidly rode with every shock and jolt.

Some hour or so into the journey the younger woman in the back seat began to throw up. The sound of a plastic bag being opened was heard over the loud radio, at least they were prepared.

The driver didn’t slow down, there was no intention of stopping. She eased up, my enquiry as to her well-being was answered positively.

Stopping out here for anything other than ablutions or to check the load was not on.

The latter was done, soon after this, the bike had settled lower and all the weight was indeed on the port pannier. The boxes had not moved.

We all took a pee, it was now near 2300, the evening was clear under the near full moon.

Once we got going, it was impossible to put my seat belt on, the inertia roller would not release the belt due to the constant movement.

This was not a problem as my chest was beginning to get chaffed by the constant rubbing.

The driver and I had a chat about the road and other things for a while. The message was that his concentration was priority number one.

It soon became apparent, we were in good hands, he was giving us as smooth a ride as possible. Sudden slowing down was minimal and the need to push ones feet 

into the floor in anticipation of a heavy impact was minimal.

That he was from one side of the road to the other, revealed his intimate knowledge of its surface.

We were driving as fast as possible, it was a rally ride, the only thing missing was my intimacy of the road, so as to act as navigator.

“Riverbed coming up, loose sand in the middle, steep entry and exit!!”

By midnight, my interest in things in the beam of the headlights was waning rapidly.

Sleep was needed. Sleep did come, amazingly!  My body was being controlled by a puppeteer. That puppeteer was the road, and he was suffering from the latter stages of Parkinsons disease!!

Other vehicles were seen coming our way, they were mainly trucks and always in convoys of three at least.

At one location, there was a group of vehicles scattered all over the convex surface. In the midst of them was an old bus, she had broken down. Her passengers were all over the road, some were inside, just resigned to the fact that their journey for now was over.

We stopped here and got out. My bike was checked, nothing had moved, it had finally settled into position.

The only time it has been damaged, has been on public transport, whether it be buses, boats or planes.

Some passengers talked with our driver, money was exchanged, we had room for two in the tray.

Before the guys got in, the parts on my bike for them to take care of were pointed out, in particular the derailleur which was on the side they were crammed into.

We continued on, now with an extra 160kg or more in the tray. Sure enough, as expected, we were grounding out occasionally.

My thoughts were with the guys in the back, they were tall men, and were huddled up on one side of the already packed tray area.

The Bandits are reluctant to attack at night because they do not know how many vehicles are coming. Hence, our night passage.

These trucks were moving at walking pace trying to negotiate the wildly uneven surface, most if not all, were carting consumer stuffs to Kalokol.

Often there was no regard to what side of the road we passed. Here in Kenya like Australia and NZ the left side is used.

The only time this was adhered to, was when oncoming 4x4’s were encountered, even then, at times, both drivers just held their track.

Up ahead we saw a Landcruiser, stopped in the middle of the road with its passengers near it. Pedro was spotted, they were repairing a flat tyre, we did not stop, just slowed down to say gidday.

Pedros bike was lashed on the rear of the roof rack.

My thoughts were as to how his bike was travelling.

One o’clock in the morning saw us pull in at Kainuk. Here there were other buses, trucks, 4x4’s and people wandering about.

Before entering the town, we had to go through an army roadblock. It did not take long for them to raise the barrier. Everything was done with a kind of haste, it was like, no one wanted to be in the same spot for too long.

We stopped here for 20 minutes, it was other worldly for me. Walking around in a trance best describes my state, memories of trying to order Chapati return, none was bought.

Once back in our refuge, we headed off again, leaving town we had to pass another army post.

From here is the most dangerous area, the driver told me.

He began driving with a kind of urgency, the vehicle was hurtling along this track that had absolutely no predictability about its surface.

The rear suspension was grounding out regularly, again my thoughts were with the guys in the back. At no time were they asked, whether they were ok.

It was bad enough in the front seat with a seat belt.

Daniels skill was now revealed in all its brilliance. We moved from one side of the road to the other hardly slowing down. His choice of spots to cross the asphalt where it existed, were chosen with with an uncanny knowledge.

Importantly, it could be felt he was enjoying the drive.

The other Hilux was speeding past us when possible. We were on both sides of the road in the two gravel tracks that in almost all cases offered the most predictable ride.

Braking now was more urgent when a large shadow appeared in the headlights.

There was water in many places, it had rained only yesterday.

The vehicle was tested in every respect, we continued to pierce the darkness only guided by our headlights a break neck speed.

The only time the accelerator was eased was to ensure oncoming vehicles knew our intentions, water and for the shadows. There were few other vehicles

My respect for our Daniel had reached new levels. His concentration never waned, every metre of the road had to be driven!

The seat belt was now becoming painful on my upper chest. The chaffing was beginning to damage my skin.

At one point, a convey of four semis was seen crawling along the treacherous corridor that is the lifeline to Lodwar.

No two of their wheels were on the same level of ground. They were like ships in the night and moving just as slow as we passed each other.

All the makes of these trucks were well known reliable brands, no driver would venture out here in anything less.

The woman in the rear seat was again reaching for her plastic bag.

The road through here is bounded by medium size trees and other reasonably dense vegetation. This offers good cover for the bandits. In one newspaper article, a mention was made about the possibility of having all this cleared to improve safety.

No mention was made, about any kind of road maintenance or reconstruction.

Turkana County has few people and little resources. Reading further articles, it seems Kenya directs a huge amount of funds to homeland security, especially on the Somalian border. Here they are in the process of building a wall.

A “divider”, along the 800km border. “Some people think that terror threats are now more technological than physical”

“A special unit of the Kenya Defence forces was overpowered by two machine gun wielding Al- Shabaab terrorists during the Garissa University attack, last month.  

In another article, travel alerts by a number of nations has made “28,000 workers jobless” (ref:Daily nation, 1.5.2015) “ At least 10,000 at the coast have been sent on unpaid leave due to the tourism downturn. Another 18,000 workers have been rendered jobless. Mostly around Mombassa.

 

 

Throughout the trip, small patches of intact asphalt had reminded us what a smooth road was like, these were becoming a little more frequent now.

They were a trap to the uninitiated, this surface was in place pierced by deep wheel engulfing potholes, capable of damaging the suspension.

Daniel often chose to stay in the sidetracks.

Again, our constant company in the other Hilux would fly past on another part of the track, a part the other driver was intimate with, he had to be, at the speed being driven. Both guys were enjoying this.

Looking at the time, the light on my watch showed the small hand hovering around the number 5.

“This ordeal is nearly over” were my thoughts. The asphalt was now improving a little. There were more lights indicating housing. My tiredness and state of mind saw me caring little to as how long we had to go.

More army personnel checked us.

Soon, streetlights bordered the now asphalt road. It is over!! We pulled into a gas station. The guys in the tray awkwardly untangled their body parts as they climbed from it.

No one was in a hurry to get things off the back.

We were all still coming to terms with what we had just experienced.

In time, we did unload things. The bike was all still in one piece with little visible sign incurred damage, other than the front mudflap that had been painstakingly glued back in place over the last few days using clothes pegs to hold it in position whilst the glue set.

Once unloaded, in desperation, ablutions were needed, only a small tree offered refuge in the gas station grounds, no one payed any particular attention to my choice of location.

I sincerely thanked the Daniel and said what a brilliant driver he was. He was very humble in his reply. We said goodbye.

One of the guys walked over to a cafe with me. He was limping. The road had left more than a memory with him. A permanent memory on my part, was all that accompanied me as we walked away from the vehicle and its driver, who safely saw us travel the 300km from Lodwar to Kitale here in this lawless part of NW Kenya.

In the cafe, we shared tea and Mandasi together, as we waited for the sun to come up. On doing so, a heavy fog was revealed, blanketing this city of 100,000 people.

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