browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
Loja to Macará
14/4/2013 Loja

We all got up pretty early and headed over the road to a coffee shop for breakfast.

Then caught the bus to Vilcabamba which is a town exactly like Bellingen, near my home town, for those who have been there.

Like Loja here it is very popular with expats living there.

Craft shops were everywhere as were really nice cafes and restaurants. We cruised about here for sometime then got the bus back to Loja.

Pete was feeling a bit crook in the evening, Diedre and I headed out for dinner to load up on carbs for tomorrow. We bought Pete a soup back from the restaurant.

15/4/2013 Loja to north of  San Pedro de la Bendita

D55, T8, Av13, Max65, Tot 12806, 2807

Cool and wet on the tops, hot at Catamayo


The three of us were up and ready to roll about 0700, Peter was still feeling a bit dodgey, we had a light breakfast across the road and headed off.

There was a steady climb out of Loja, a bus was seen leaving the scene of an accident, that of giving a dog a permanent limp. That poor dog let out a series of yelps, at least a dozen others dogs arrived on the scene. The injured dog managed to drag itself off the highway and into a drain.

Pete was struggling up the incline, it was also wet. We took stops and waited for him to catch us.

Further on Pete needed a bit of a bark, that did not offer him any relief either.

I stuck with Peter and Deirdre carried on at her pace and stopped to wait for us when she felt the distance might be increasing too much. We were stopping very frequently, it suited me also.

Pete does really well considering he is 75, most people this age would have discarded any dreams about long distance cycling many moons earlier in their lives.

He is an inspiration. Having a break together, I had a look at his cassette and front cranks, he was running a cassette that was not offering lower enough gears.  We worked it out he was trying to ride this tough terrain in his lowest gear that was two gears higher than ours.

No wonder he was doing it tough.

He had also been sick in Quito. He was still not really back in perfect working order.

Finally reaching the top we enjoyed a 14km run down to Catamayo, a meal was also enjoyed here on the northern outskirts.

The road down had a gradient and bends perfect for a PB as far as speed was concerned. Unfortunately, asphalt can’t be relied on for a uniform surface. Sure enough on two sections, the road was under repair. One part would have claimed any cyclist arriving on the scene at a speed greater than 15km/hr.

This town that reminded me of a western town of depicted in movies. The surrounding landscape was dry and arid with agaves growing wherever they could. Their tall floral spears ever present.

 The temperature down here was in the late twenties, up at the top of the range it was in the late teens. So typical of many passages here in Ecuador.

Over lunch it was decided that Pete needed to catch the bus here, and we would catch him the next day in Catacocha. He needed to rest.

We made sure he got the bus organised and Deirdre and I headed off for a nights camping somewhere between Catamayo and Catacocha.

The road was wide and constructed of concrete and flat, one can hardly remember riding a road offering level conditions, the coast is now a distant memory, the flat roads that too.

We past cane fields in the valley alongside us as we began another climb.

Deirdre is a great rider and moves along about my pace, the need to stop befell upon us both about the same time.

For two months now Ecuador has had vistas in all shades of green, the terrain now has all shades of brown. The climate feels very  Mediterranean.

We bought supplies for the evening at San Pedro de la Bendita, a lovely town perched on a knob with commanding views of the countryside. Two young guys were fascinated with our bikes.

We hung at the shop eating ice creams and me drinking coke. My new addiction. One that will be nipped in the bud, should my travels not entail cycling.

Leaving here, the climbing continued, though always accompanied by effort cancelling vistas, vistas that reveal their grandeur only when you can smell the smells and be aware of the sounds of nature. Two senses lavishly garnished during passage by bicycle.

With time getting on, we really needed a camp, the road on its sinuous way through this terrain offered very little level ground along its verges.

The few properties up steep access ways had locked gates or were just too much hassle.

Coming to a sweeping bend with a valley running up to the right of us was what looked like a small park, there were toilets there and a BBQ shelter.

The lady in the small shop said we were welcome to camp there.

What a piece of luck, we had toilets and running water.

This was Deirdres first night camping on this particular trip, “at least I didn’t haul the tent all this way for nothing” was an utterance of hers at one point.

We set up our tents, I cooked my standard fair, she enjoyed the meal. We sat around chatting for some time, then started watching a movie.
16/4/2013 Sth of San Pedrro de la Bendita to Catacocha

D46, T6.5, Av12.38, Max61, Total 12852, 2853


Up early, an omelette was enjoyed, as was a coffee and tea, Deirdre snuck in some porridge during proceedings.

Packing up we thanked the owner and launched ourselves into what would be another long climb.

Pretty soon I rigged up my portable stereo speaker on the bars, Deirdre close behind, we elevated ourselves to some playlists compiled here in Ecuador, along with some Paul Kelly and Elton John.

For me the reality of this journey, here in this most beautiful of countries, was again brought alive in these southern mountains, listening to the sound of pan flutes that are part of Ecuadorian traditional music. It was euphoric to say the least. The climbing became easy. My riding companion made the moment even more enjoyable.

 We both found the climbing becoming much more enjoyable. 

Nearing the crest and coming around a bend, we were walloped by a 40 knot gust of wind, my face towel was dragged from my bars and became instantly airborne to 50 feet in the air, being blown over the steep drop off below the road then, all of a sudden the updraft delivered it almost on top of Deirdre further up the road.

Little items like this are now so important in making a day comfortable.

Once at the crest we decided it was best for her to go ahead on the downhill stretches, I was faster and using the brakes all the way down is something I try to avoid.

Climbing the hills, though hard work, is like money in the bank. It is fun coming down from these hard earned savings, sometimes it happens all to quick, like hastily spending money just cause you have got it. So far this road has offered terrain where all the money saved hasn’t been spent at once. It makes for nice mixed riding.

We had just the best lunch at Velacruz, a pueblito north of Catacocha.

Deirdres chicken looked raw, mine wasn’t much better, the pieces had been shallow fried.

Cutting my thick fleshy portion open, it did look pink, she sent hers back, on finishing my soup, a mouthful of the chicken revealed it had been smoked. It was the best chicken eaten to date.

The frying process was only to warm it.

Arriving at Catacocha we couldn’t find Pete, emailing him didn’t help. Our next move was the hospital, then he came sauntering across the town square.

We found a hostal together. We decided Pete needed to go to the hospital to see what was up, he couldn’t eat and was weak.

 He and I grabbed a cab, he doesn’t speak any Spanish, my limited skills were needed to translate his condition to the staff.

The hospital was only 6 months old, we were treated like royalty on arrival, with doctors telling us a couple of the nurses needed companions.

Pete was put on a bed and given a huge injection of saline solution over about 30 minutes, he was also prescribed antibiotics.

The treatment was at no cost.

At least Peter knew that he didn’t have something to bad.

That evening we met a doctor from the hospital and a dentist who had lived in Canada over dinner in a local restaurant. They were really interesting and good company, Pete did start eating a bit.

17/4/2013 Catacocha to Tagula,EC

D63, T8hrs, Av 16.30, Max66, Tot12914, 2916

Fine and very hot, Mediterranean type climate

Pete was still weak, so the plan was to meet him in Macará the next day, he would bus it.

Deirdre and I got away about 0800. The morning saw us cruise downhill for 15km.

Along another bit of flat road my front tyre dumped its load, a thorn was found to be the culprit. As luck would have it we were stopped by a couple of pipes delivereing cool fresh water out of the hills above. Deirdre enjoyed its cooling liquid while I attended to the tyre.

People were washing trucks and clothes here, we mucked around for awhile taking photos, getting on my bike, the front tyre was flat again. Shit!!, upon again removing it a tiny piece of radial wire was found in the trye. We spent an hour here, time wasn’t an issue, though it was staring to get very hot.

Music helped us climb the hills ahead, that and many stops and chatting. practicing our Spanish.Getting to the crest of the next range, a draw bar crossed the road, the guys saw us coming and held it up. This inspection point is to check trucks coming north from Peru carrying contraband, Some consumer items and food are alot cheaper in Peru.

Here at Empalme we sat in the small shop for an hour chatting with the lady and were entertained by her son Mateo in a stroller. By the time we left, there was a pile of empty bottles and ice cream wrappers to be tallied up.

Onions, eggs and tomatos were bought for the night.

We tried to get a bottle of red, the locals only drank the hard stuff around here.

Leaving about 1500hrs, finding a camp was our next task. The river was at the bottom of this downhill run.

We had hoped for a riparian campsite, this was not to be. The river was running brown from quarrying activities and nothing but rocks lined it and the road.

The country around us was still very arid, hot and dusty. The road followed the river for sometime. Acacia trees with atrocious thorns dominated the landscape. Vultures circled the skies, eyes out for the dead or dying.

At this point, we didn’t fit either the condition or the predicament.

Comfortable camping was going to be hard to find.

Coming to another bridge at the pueblita of Tagula, the locals didn’t present themselves as to keen to have a couple of cyclists camping in their midst.

Both of us were quite worn out by now at, the time was now 1600 after some hot cycling all day.

We decided to ride on and away from the pueblita and up the hill, though always looking for somewhere to camp.

Five hundred meters on Deidre spotted a level track left the right hand side of the road, we headed along it and arrived at a farm house.

A woman was at the gate. I asked her if we could put our tents up near the small shed for the night.

The rest of the family came out and came up to greet us.

What a lovely bunch of people they were. They watched us pitch our tents. Their young son Alexandra was especially amused at our activities. They grew cattle and some crops. On some pretty steep hills I might add. We were so thankful of their hospitality.

We ate well, Deirdre using some concrete blocks for a seat, while the rest provided a bench for the stove.

In this harsh environment, we had found a little bit of comfort for the night, these experiences are so humbling. We both agreed with so few resources, those of a small piece of flat ground, a couple of blocks, tents, food and water, there was nothing more in this whole wide world we needed or wanted.

Fireflies flickered like terrestrial stars amongst the small bushes near us.

Music saw Deidre fall asleep while I documented the highlights of the day on the laptop, till a light shower of rain saw me too retreat to the nest.

18/4/2013 Tagula to Macará

D32, T6hrs, av 12.68, Max 57, Tot12946, 2948

Fine and hot , late 20’s

We were in no hurry to leave, knowing there was only 30 odd k between us and Macará, the border town near Peru.

These last few days, Deirdre and I have had an experience together neither of us will ever forget, we got on unbelievably well, both being very like minded. Both adventurous and both very capable.

Our riding was harmonious to say the least, rest stops came when we both needed them. We both marvelled at the environment around us and our levels of enthusiasm were comparable. All this laced with humour.

Our care, respect and enjoyment of each other’s company  grew each day as we got to know  one another better, only as you can when put in these situations. A friendship was building, we both felt that it was a friendship based on a common interest in cycling, that we both agreed could have seen us ride many miles more together.

I had the time, she didn’t, her committed was to accompany Peter to Cuzco and to her partner and friends in Smithers, British Columbia.

As I was about to say, the day ahead was going to be easy.

Leaving camp, about nine, the day was already hot. We divided what water we had left, thanked our hosts and began what was another long climb.

Often we would stop on the left side of the road in the shade beneath the road cuttings, the sun wasn’t high enough in the eastern sky to cast its warmth here yet.

Almost every vehicle that passed us would toot or give the thumbs up. The Ecuadorian motorists unknowingly provide more inspiration with these gestures.

The bus from Catacocha passed us, Deidre waving out suspecting Pete was on board, he was.

For this whole passage now bromeliads have been growing on every powerline, it fascinates me, a fascination that saw me stop everytime a good opportunity for a photo presented itself.

No need for red balls on valley spanning wires here. The bromels warned any pilot of the danger.

At the top of the range we enjoyed a drink and a rest in chairs at the shop.

The scenery is now back to shades of green.

That lushness, one, so often imagines of the tropics, is not often present. The islands off tropical Queensland also come as a surprise in that they are not lush.  

At many places on the road there were cows and horses just wandering about on blind corners, it was scary when you saw a car coming, known there was a cow out on the road. Especially in close proximity.

Luckily we saw no mishaps, a driver inflicting a limp on a cow might not be arfforded to option to keep driving.

Soon the downhill run to Macará began, as did the further rise in temperature, close to town rice was growing in paddys in the lower spots.

Pete spotted us, his bus had arrived an hour or so earlier. We booked a hostal.

Pete was in much better spirits, the rest had been a help.

My intervention in their trip had been beneficial for all of us, Pete could recuperate and didn’t feel bad about restricting Deirdres riding, she didn’t have to hang around. We had a great time during this passage from Loja to Macará, the last town before crossing into Peru for all of us.

During the afternoon I posted my Ecuador map back to Australia along with a few hand made bracelets from Vilcabamba for Ben and Callum. These waterproof maps are quite heavy. Unused items in my kit are not going to be given the opportunity to see the rest of Western South America.

That evening we bought some Argentinean Shiraz and enjoyed a walk around the town in the balmy temperatures and a great meal of BBQ chicken. The alcohol didn’t take long to round the edges.

Deirdre and I swapped photos, I gave her the movie Red Dog to finish watching at some stage.

They both had one of these flat circular rubber discs that work as plugs in any sink, Pete gave me his, they are so handy for doing washing in motel rooms.

Deirdre also gave me some hand warmer saches and a couple of occy straps.

Our motel was as good as any at home. This was a nice place to spend my last days in Ecuador. The border is 3km south.

Deirdre and Pete are riding through to Peru tomorrow to catch the bus to Piura, a 5hr trip. They have a commitment in Cuzco with a tour company to do Macchu Picchu.

Me, I have a commitment only to the southern needle on my compass....................
19/4/2013 Macará

Fine and balmy


The three of us had breakfast together, pondered Deirdres map and generally spoke about how much we had enjoyed the last week.

We said our farewells and wished each other safe travels.

It had indeed been a great few days.

The rest of my day was spent blogging, getting Peruvian Soles and food for the road.

I received 2.57 soles for US$1 on the street here in Macará. I was happy with that.

It was a relaxing day. I had washed all my dirties, so things were looking up. A brew of coffee was made out on the deck.

Super petrol is now being used in the Primus omnifuel with great results, it is burning amazingly clean, the first lot purchased hardly registered on the bowser,  I gave the guy 15c.

Tea was had at the same place as last night and was just as nice. I joined people at their table, the owner was a hard case. He had a great sense of humour.

Tomorrow will see me cross the border and head south east.

I have decided not to take the coast road, Devin said he coped head winds every day. The terrain profile shows some ranges but with them will come coolness and views.

My next time on the coast will be south of Trujillo.




Picture
On the tops above Loja, still bloody cold
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Catamayo, dry and hot
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Such brilliant roads, engineering and art on a grand scale. They weaved their way through the landscape like serpents.
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1000km south of Quito.
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Great spot for a flat tyre, it was like an oasis, plus a tube beneath its surface revealed the holes readily
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Ceabo tree, south of Catacocha, almost like a boab.
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Just hangin' about. A couple old girls free of restaurant issues cutting their lives short.
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An omelet ready to serve, camp the second night near Tagulo
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Natures washing, out to dry, with a quilt in in the background.
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An enjoyable week together with Deirdre and Peter, though like all travelling encounters, people have to move on. Downtown Macará, 3 km from the Peruvian border.
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The easy stuff!!
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Sugar cane south of Catamayo, it was very reminiscent of Morocco dry hills with lush valleys
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She didn't bring it all this way for nothing, our first night.
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Catacocha park and ubiquitous church
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We found it best if I waited 5-10 minutes before making my descent and always stopped at an ascent when encountered.
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You never tired of this scenery, just "occasionally", the access to its splendor.
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Camping here? Unfortunately not. Rio Catamayo
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Trashed!!!! Near the summit, the saddle in the background
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Welcome to Macará, if you were in a hurry and stuck to the Pan Am you could do Lima in 2 weeks
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Fascinating, Tillandsias, doing what they do best.
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It was a great few days of shared camaraderie, challenges, laughs and fun.
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