Heiress of a long history, Beatriz Pichi Malen has dedicated her life to searching for and transmitting traditional Mapuche songs. Born in Los Toldos, in the province of Buenos Aires, Argentina, she is the great-great granddaughter –on her mother’s side – of Cacique Coliqueo, a famous 19th-century Mapuche longko (chief).
Beatriz has given talks, seminars, workshops and concerts throughout Argentina and abroad. She has also recounted her knowledge of the Mapuche culture for cinema and video.
Gumayta puñen may, gumayta puñen may
Kupage guru may, kupage guru may
Tra püta puñen may, tra püta puñen may
Amutugue guru may, traa pita puñen may
Amutugue guru may
Kupayta guru may, amutugue guru may
Umutugue puñen may, tra püta puñen may,
Tra püta puñen may, tra püta puñen may...
This song is for putting babies to sleep, and adults I might suggest.It is very calming.
Beatriz has given talks, seminars, workshops and concerts throughout Argentina and abroad. She has also recounted her knowledge of the Mapuche culture for cinema and video.
Gumayta puñen may, gumayta puñen may
Kupage guru may, kupage guru may
Tra püta puñen may, tra püta puñen may
Amutugue guru may, traa pita puñen may
Amutugue guru may
Kupayta guru may, amutugue guru may
Umutugue puñen may, tra püta puñen may,
Tra püta puñen may, tra püta puñen may...
This song is for putting babies to sleep, and adults I might suggest.It is very calming.
16/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Morro Chico
D109, T5,7, Av20.82, Max50, Tot 24,703/14,816
Fine with light westerlies
It was nice to have had a warm comfortable nights sleep. Cal cooked up a treat in the bathroom using the MSR stove. We had to keep the doors closed so the owners could not smell the sweet aroma of Chorizo and onions being fried before being added to a pasta.
We enjoyed a well earned beer with dinner.
We got away from town after visiting the fishing port and grabbing some bread.
The day was perfect, little wind, bright blue skies with puffy clouds lazily suspended here and there.
The road was all smooth concrete. The westerly really was not an issue.
We stopped to talk to a French cyclist heading north and an American couple also heading north. Both said they battled winds south of Punta Arenas.
The country now was just estancia after estancia, with land cleared and some great pasture evident.
Once we got to Rio Rubens the road took us due east, we were pushed along nicely by the light westerly.
It was one of those days where it was a pleasure to be just riding a bike. I had my music going on the speaker, which was crystal clear due to almost no noise from apparent wind.
Callum got a hole in his tyre along the way, this was repaired, his chain had just been oiled, needless to his hands were patchy black once the job was done.
The days are now getting very long with activities easily performed without artificial light till almost 2200 hrs.
The odd fox was seen, their coats, very light coloured, most likely so they are not to conspicuous during the winter months. They are fairly casual and just saunter across the road ahead of us.
Upon reaching Morro Chico at 1900 we got water from the caribineros and went across the road to an unused shed and set the tent up in there.
Cal fished in the Rio Penitente only catching small fish, it is a very popular salmon and trout river.
The water weed, Didymo is a problem in this river.
We were worn out and luckily were able to pitch the tent inside the old shed, which had a concrete floor.
17/1/2013 Morro Chico to Villa Tehuelches
D48, T2/4, Av19.42, Max48, tot 24751, 14,864
Cool, overcast with some showers, westerly 15km
It was a relatively mild morning. Even though we were camped in the shed, condensation had still built up on the inside of the tent fly.
This seems to be a problem inherent in many tents.
Whilst getting ready to leave a few workers were using the road on their quad bikes, they were crazy drivers believe me.
There is a lonely hill at Morroo Chico, next to the river. An information area described it as a volcanic plug or neck, (see photo)
Again, we were riding on the perfect concrete surface, the road taking us through slightly undulating pasture country. Merino sheep occupied many parts of the range.
Usually around these flocks were other animals, mainly the Grey Fox (zorro gris) and the Southern Crested Caracara (Carancho), a bird of prey. We also saw the local armadillo, (Piche Patagónicio), they live in holes in the ground in the paddocks.
The sheep offer potential food for the animals. The American cyclists said they were looking for a campsite and found an area of dead mutilated sheep everywhere. Possibly the work of wild dogs one could assume.
It was an overcast cool day, again riding was easy. Traffic down here, though not heavy at this popular time of year is consistent, every few minutes a vehicle will be encountered.
The wind is always predominantly west.
Almost every object and plant above ground level is impacted by this phenomenon.
Woolsheds were propped on the lee side, bus shelters were blown over, annual plants had a growth habit to the east, shrubs grew away from its source, fence posts were sometimes sloppy.
The locals even walked with a lean!
Incidentally, on the gravel roads, generally dust is not a problem as it is continuously moved on by the wind as vehicles grind the rocks into this state.
This fact and when it approaches us from behind our shoulders are a couple of good points about the stuff.
We stopped in one of the unique spire topped bus shelters, it was brand new, had a seat, windows and solid timber door. It was indeed a great refuge from the elements. It would be easy to spend a night in one of these shelters.
They are often located outside the gates of Estancias.
Inside the shelter where we lunched was a flyer advertising an Esquila or sheep shearing show.
It was to be held this weekend at Villa Tehuelches, with sheep dog trials, shearing and food among other rural traditions on offer. We decided to find accommodation in Villa Tehuelches and spend some time at the event.
The only lodgings in the town luckily had a room. Though, we could not occupy it till 1800.
We headed to the new library to use the internet and browse in some books for a few hours. It was heated, adding greatly to our comfort.
At 1800 we rode across to the lodgings and had a shower and ate pasta.
The woman has offered to look after our gear tomorrow whilst we visit the show.
Yesterday, Cal said to me it feels like we are now just riding to complete the journey. We could be in Ushuaia in a week if we wanted to, given the tailwinds we may encounter.
Though, there is only maybe about 500km to go. This last part of the trip could become the most difficult if the winds and weather are not in our favour.
The accident I had the other day is evidence that it is not over till we have booked a room in Ushuaia.
However we hope to go further south onto the Isla Navarino and visit Puerto Williams, from here go south to Puerto Toro, this is really the end of the road.
This outpost is just a few minutes south of 55° latitude. To give you an idea of how far south this piece of land is, the bottom of Tasmania is around near 43°, that puts us over a 1000 kilometres south of Tasmania and some and about 700km south of Stewart Island in NZ.
Callum has an aching knee, so most nights the smell of deep heat is around the camp or hostal.
He is beginning to think about getting back to Australia, as you do when holidays are coming to an end.
With this, are thoughts of a warm bed every night, lamb roasts and of much culinary variety, warm weather and being around friends and family.
I too have these thoughts, though for me these things, places and people will have to wait. When riding with Dorothy Fleck, who was on her second world tour, she mentioned that much of the ability to ride for long periods is in the mind.
I agree totally, there are days when I think, why am I doing this. I always remind myself if I was not doing it, I most likely would be wishing I was.
It is so nice for me to be doing something and not wishing I was elsewhere, such is my disposition.
Meeting other cyclists who have ridden many places is very inspirational for me.
Just this morning I was thinking just how different all this is.
Things like cooking food in toilet areas of motel rooms, most days performing ablutions in the wild, always watching how you spend money, not being around old friends, though having Callum with me is very special.
Other things that are unique to this kind of mobility are:
· Often sleeping amongst rubbish
· Always exposed to the elements
· Not showering for days
· Mundane, though adequate diet
· Physical hardship
· The unknown, almost on a daily basis
· Often being alone. Though for me, never lonely
· Language difficulties
· Wearing the same clothes for days. (all my thanks go to sheep!)
These aspects, though apparently difficult and imposing a burden, for me, just add to the adventure. On a more positive note these things make it all worthwhile.
· Experiencing new places, people and things
· Not working! Though this will be on the cards after all this??
· The sheer freedom
· An active mind, negotiating a different language
· Knowing the easy life is always going to be there.
· Making the most of these precious active years, at this point in my life
· Being as fit as I was as I have been for years
· Having few responsibilities
· Being close to nature
· The things I once took for granted will always be appreciated
· Freedom from internal combustion engines and their maintenance and running costs
· Importantly, having goals and purpose without working.
Both lists can go on, these are just a few things that immediately come to mind.
The room was warm and cosy. Both beds were heavily blanketed for warmth.
I watched “The Book Thief” before sleeping, my hardships are insignificant in comparison.
18/1/2013 Villa Telhueche to the coast at the intersection of the Rio Verde Rd
D74, T4.5/7, Av15.91, Max52, Tot 24,826, 14,939
Overcast, moderate westerly, cool
The little cabin we were in was warm and the beds cosy, it was a great nights sleep.
The owner had us into her house for breakfast.
After breakfast we relaxed then headed to the esquila, (shearing festival) it was quite early,to be there.
We enjoyed bbq’d kebabs and a couple of chunks of Lamb, watched some poor guy and his dogs trying to muster 5 sheep into a race. One sheep, as usual decided not to follow the rest. It ended up in the crowd.
It was very humorous from a spectator point of view.
We bought some homemade Calafate jam, made from the purple berries of this native prickly bush.
About 1330 we headed off and took the turn off to Rio Verde.
The road was gravel, though easy riding in the wind that was just behind our right shoulders.
We took this road in the hope of doing some fishing.
The wind put a stop to this.
We soon came to the Fitzroy channel that divides the mainland from Isla Riesco.
Estancias were the only landmarks once again.
There were some grand old homesteads amongst well established trees. These places were the only real sign of civilisation.
Riding along the edge of the Fiztroy Channel made a welcome scenery change, a couple of ferries serviced the island from Rio Verde.
From south here after Entre Rios the road swung east and we got a good hurry up in the westerly back to the highway.
It was nice to be on a back road again, the gravel was very fine and easy riding.
Once back on the main road we crossed it and rode down to some derelict buildings on a lake shore.
We found a camp away from the buildings over looking the lake.
Cal went down for a fish, on closer inspection and a taste he found it was salt water.
He also found out that it contained no fish near our shore.
Looking at our map it is connected by a small channel to the Straits of Magellan.
Maybe that’s why the odd seagull was in residence around the shores!.
We only had enough water for a milo and breakfast. Dinner was peanuts, milo and biscuits.
Luckily, we had eaten on the road about 1700. We were not overly concerned as long as we ate in the morning.
The ride to Punta Arenas should be aided by the winds and is only about 48km.
Sleep came easy.
D109, T5,7, Av20.82, Max50, Tot 24,703/14,816
Fine with light westerlies
It was nice to have had a warm comfortable nights sleep. Cal cooked up a treat in the bathroom using the MSR stove. We had to keep the doors closed so the owners could not smell the sweet aroma of Chorizo and onions being fried before being added to a pasta.
We enjoyed a well earned beer with dinner.
We got away from town after visiting the fishing port and grabbing some bread.
The day was perfect, little wind, bright blue skies with puffy clouds lazily suspended here and there.
The road was all smooth concrete. The westerly really was not an issue.
We stopped to talk to a French cyclist heading north and an American couple also heading north. Both said they battled winds south of Punta Arenas.
The country now was just estancia after estancia, with land cleared and some great pasture evident.
Once we got to Rio Rubens the road took us due east, we were pushed along nicely by the light westerly.
It was one of those days where it was a pleasure to be just riding a bike. I had my music going on the speaker, which was crystal clear due to almost no noise from apparent wind.
Callum got a hole in his tyre along the way, this was repaired, his chain had just been oiled, needless to his hands were patchy black once the job was done.
The days are now getting very long with activities easily performed without artificial light till almost 2200 hrs.
The odd fox was seen, their coats, very light coloured, most likely so they are not to conspicuous during the winter months. They are fairly casual and just saunter across the road ahead of us.
Upon reaching Morro Chico at 1900 we got water from the caribineros and went across the road to an unused shed and set the tent up in there.
Cal fished in the Rio Penitente only catching small fish, it is a very popular salmon and trout river.
The water weed, Didymo is a problem in this river.
We were worn out and luckily were able to pitch the tent inside the old shed, which had a concrete floor.
17/1/2013 Morro Chico to Villa Tehuelches
D48, T2/4, Av19.42, Max48, tot 24751, 14,864
Cool, overcast with some showers, westerly 15km
It was a relatively mild morning. Even though we were camped in the shed, condensation had still built up on the inside of the tent fly.
This seems to be a problem inherent in many tents.
Whilst getting ready to leave a few workers were using the road on their quad bikes, they were crazy drivers believe me.
There is a lonely hill at Morroo Chico, next to the river. An information area described it as a volcanic plug or neck, (see photo)
Again, we were riding on the perfect concrete surface, the road taking us through slightly undulating pasture country. Merino sheep occupied many parts of the range.
Usually around these flocks were other animals, mainly the Grey Fox (zorro gris) and the Southern Crested Caracara (Carancho), a bird of prey. We also saw the local armadillo, (Piche Patagónicio), they live in holes in the ground in the paddocks.
The sheep offer potential food for the animals. The American cyclists said they were looking for a campsite and found an area of dead mutilated sheep everywhere. Possibly the work of wild dogs one could assume.
It was an overcast cool day, again riding was easy. Traffic down here, though not heavy at this popular time of year is consistent, every few minutes a vehicle will be encountered.
The wind is always predominantly west.
Almost every object and plant above ground level is impacted by this phenomenon.
Woolsheds were propped on the lee side, bus shelters were blown over, annual plants had a growth habit to the east, shrubs grew away from its source, fence posts were sometimes sloppy.
The locals even walked with a lean!
Incidentally, on the gravel roads, generally dust is not a problem as it is continuously moved on by the wind as vehicles grind the rocks into this state.
This fact and when it approaches us from behind our shoulders are a couple of good points about the stuff.
We stopped in one of the unique spire topped bus shelters, it was brand new, had a seat, windows and solid timber door. It was indeed a great refuge from the elements. It would be easy to spend a night in one of these shelters.
They are often located outside the gates of Estancias.
Inside the shelter where we lunched was a flyer advertising an Esquila or sheep shearing show.
It was to be held this weekend at Villa Tehuelches, with sheep dog trials, shearing and food among other rural traditions on offer. We decided to find accommodation in Villa Tehuelches and spend some time at the event.
The only lodgings in the town luckily had a room. Though, we could not occupy it till 1800.
We headed to the new library to use the internet and browse in some books for a few hours. It was heated, adding greatly to our comfort.
At 1800 we rode across to the lodgings and had a shower and ate pasta.
The woman has offered to look after our gear tomorrow whilst we visit the show.
Yesterday, Cal said to me it feels like we are now just riding to complete the journey. We could be in Ushuaia in a week if we wanted to, given the tailwinds we may encounter.
Though, there is only maybe about 500km to go. This last part of the trip could become the most difficult if the winds and weather are not in our favour.
The accident I had the other day is evidence that it is not over till we have booked a room in Ushuaia.
However we hope to go further south onto the Isla Navarino and visit Puerto Williams, from here go south to Puerto Toro, this is really the end of the road.
This outpost is just a few minutes south of 55° latitude. To give you an idea of how far south this piece of land is, the bottom of Tasmania is around near 43°, that puts us over a 1000 kilometres south of Tasmania and some and about 700km south of Stewart Island in NZ.
Callum has an aching knee, so most nights the smell of deep heat is around the camp or hostal.
He is beginning to think about getting back to Australia, as you do when holidays are coming to an end.
With this, are thoughts of a warm bed every night, lamb roasts and of much culinary variety, warm weather and being around friends and family.
I too have these thoughts, though for me these things, places and people will have to wait. When riding with Dorothy Fleck, who was on her second world tour, she mentioned that much of the ability to ride for long periods is in the mind.
I agree totally, there are days when I think, why am I doing this. I always remind myself if I was not doing it, I most likely would be wishing I was.
It is so nice for me to be doing something and not wishing I was elsewhere, such is my disposition.
Meeting other cyclists who have ridden many places is very inspirational for me.
Just this morning I was thinking just how different all this is.
Things like cooking food in toilet areas of motel rooms, most days performing ablutions in the wild, always watching how you spend money, not being around old friends, though having Callum with me is very special.
Other things that are unique to this kind of mobility are:
· Often sleeping amongst rubbish
· Always exposed to the elements
· Not showering for days
· Mundane, though adequate diet
· Physical hardship
· The unknown, almost on a daily basis
· Often being alone. Though for me, never lonely
· Language difficulties
· Wearing the same clothes for days. (all my thanks go to sheep!)
These aspects, though apparently difficult and imposing a burden, for me, just add to the adventure. On a more positive note these things make it all worthwhile.
· Experiencing new places, people and things
· Not working! Though this will be on the cards after all this??
· The sheer freedom
· An active mind, negotiating a different language
· Knowing the easy life is always going to be there.
· Making the most of these precious active years, at this point in my life
· Being as fit as I was as I have been for years
· Having few responsibilities
· Being close to nature
· The things I once took for granted will always be appreciated
· Freedom from internal combustion engines and their maintenance and running costs
· Importantly, having goals and purpose without working.
Both lists can go on, these are just a few things that immediately come to mind.
The room was warm and cosy. Both beds were heavily blanketed for warmth.
I watched “The Book Thief” before sleeping, my hardships are insignificant in comparison.
18/1/2013 Villa Telhueche to the coast at the intersection of the Rio Verde Rd
D74, T4.5/7, Av15.91, Max52, Tot 24,826, 14,939
Overcast, moderate westerly, cool
The little cabin we were in was warm and the beds cosy, it was a great nights sleep.
The owner had us into her house for breakfast.
After breakfast we relaxed then headed to the esquila, (shearing festival) it was quite early,to be there.
We enjoyed bbq’d kebabs and a couple of chunks of Lamb, watched some poor guy and his dogs trying to muster 5 sheep into a race. One sheep, as usual decided not to follow the rest. It ended up in the crowd.
It was very humorous from a spectator point of view.
We bought some homemade Calafate jam, made from the purple berries of this native prickly bush.
About 1330 we headed off and took the turn off to Rio Verde.
The road was gravel, though easy riding in the wind that was just behind our right shoulders.
We took this road in the hope of doing some fishing.
The wind put a stop to this.
We soon came to the Fitzroy channel that divides the mainland from Isla Riesco.
Estancias were the only landmarks once again.
There were some grand old homesteads amongst well established trees. These places were the only real sign of civilisation.
Riding along the edge of the Fiztroy Channel made a welcome scenery change, a couple of ferries serviced the island from Rio Verde.
From south here after Entre Rios the road swung east and we got a good hurry up in the westerly back to the highway.
It was nice to be on a back road again, the gravel was very fine and easy riding.
Once back on the main road we crossed it and rode down to some derelict buildings on a lake shore.
We found a camp away from the buildings over looking the lake.
Cal went down for a fish, on closer inspection and a taste he found it was salt water.
He also found out that it contained no fish near our shore.
Looking at our map it is connected by a small channel to the Straits of Magellan.
Maybe that’s why the odd seagull was in residence around the shores!.
We only had enough water for a milo and breakfast. Dinner was peanuts, milo and biscuits.
Luckily, we had eaten on the road about 1700. We were not overly concerned as long as we ate in the morning.
The ride to Punta Arenas should be aided by the winds and is only about 48km.
Sleep came easy.
We were bloody lucky to have the wind just aft of our right shoulder! On the road to Rio Verde.
 Packing supplies into properties near Torres Del Paine
 Offerings at a roadside tomb near Puerto Natales
 Typical estancia, this Maria Ántonieta, sth of Puerto Natales
 The explanation for the solitary hill at Morro Chico
 Lee side of the woolshed.
 Radiant heat cooks just the best lamb, so do old pallets.
 These bus shelters were located all along Ruta 9,
Great lunchrooms.
Turnoff to Rio Verde.
 Final campsite before Punta Arenas
|
 Typical campsite in the park.
 Last glimpses of Torres Del Paine.
 Welcome shelter Morro Chico
 The volcanic plug at Morro Chico on the river Penitente
 Asado de oveja, la esquila, Villa Tehuelches.
Cooking in 30km/hr winds!!
 Rio Verde and Fitzroy Channel
|
