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  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
Picture
Taking pride in their environment the boys planting Plane trees at Cide
PictureThe Black Sea is remarkably clear
12/3/2016  Cide to Doganyurt
D76, T6, Av12.4, max48, 51475, 742, Alt up1855m
Cool
I was a bit concerned about leaving here with this tooth pain. However on waking it felt remarkably pain free. The antibiotics had done their job it seemed.
The pain was not so bad even after having breakfast. On leaving, the 2 man staff said I owed them more money. I had infact paid for 3 nights. They said no. I did not want to argue.
In future any stays longer than two nights I will be getting receipts as I pay. The offsider here collected 40TL off me in the morning and denied it the next day.
Riding from town it was a steep climb out as per usual. The pain was minimal. I felt great.
There were some fantastic little bays on this stretch of the road. Can the pharmacist in Cide had told me about these little bays. One in particular that had a great seafood restaurant on the shores. I saw it but really did not feel I would enjoy the food as much as I should so kept riding.
 At Evrenye there was a lovely old wooden tourist boat anchored in the harbour. The coast just comes to a total standstill in winter. So prices must be high in summer because many businesses only make money for 6 months of the year .
There are still plenty of water points on the road. It is so nice to be drinking chilled water. We actually got used to drinking hot water whilst cycling through Africa.
At about 1600hrs up high above the sea in the mist, another rider was approaching me. It was Juri from Switzerland who had ridden from Mongolia to here over the last 7 months and was on his way back to Zurich. We talked solidly for an hour or more.
We shared some hot cay he had. It was a shame it wasn’t earlier in the day.
We just had to keep going.
I arrived after dark at Yoganhurt.  There was one restaurant open, here I enjoyed salad and and fried meatballs, basic , but inside the warm building it was great. The people in there told me to go and camp on the foreshores.
I rode down there in the dark. Down here were these small picnic gazebos big enough to shelter my tent and bike.
It was great, outside was foggy and very damp.
It was right on the harbour front.
 
 
13/3/2016   Doganyurt to Enabolu
D36, T2.5, Av12.26, max61, 51511, 778, Alt up790m
Wet
The morning saw the fog lifted, though things were still very damp. I had my cereals and a coffee and rode down to the end of the substantial breakwall to have a look about.
What was most obvious was the steep climb out of the village up the hill.
It was a steady climb, 10 degrees in places. There were houses perched on the seaward side of the road wide huge views across the Black Sea.
Coming down into one village. The men outside a cay house yelled to me if I wanted cay. I stopped and had a chat as best I could. One of the men was 90 years of age . He was one of those old people that have a lovely aura about them . He looked content with everything around him. It was quite  a humbling experience. He was half my life time older than me.
On arriving at Enabolu. I asked a few locals about a hotel. Two guys on bikes directed me to the hotel Istiklal. It was very very comfortable and an easy flight of stairs up.
I set my very wet tent up in the common area upstairs.
It was great to be warm and cosy. I did some washing as usual. A wander downtown to eat saw me have plenty of choices as there were little eating houses everywhere.
The town had narrow cobbled streets and some very up market shops.
The next morning I headed off to see the dentist , Mustafa Fakasli. He could not speak English, so we had to call his daughter in Istanbul who did the translation for us. Anyway he re-glued a loose crown but said the rear tooth giving me all the problems was still infected and he did not want to pull it out.
The pain was still there but bearable. I decided to do something about it in one of the bigger towns further east.
I needed some new reading glass as my second pair had broken in the last couple of days. There were two good optometrists in town an off the shelf pair of 2.5’s was bought .I always carry a spare pair.
The afternoon was spent watching movies and sleeping. As said before there is little guilt felt about doing nothing when stopped in these towns.
I did go for a walk down to the foreshores. Here I just sat on a pier and did some reflecting on life.
I find myself as happy as I have been for a long time. Having said this I was happy but not truly happy. Each day is like living a dream for me whilst I am doing this.
Some thoughts come to mind. This was posted on my instagram account
  • Upon reflection. This journey in Turkey to date has seen me experience so much sheer mindful pleasure and excruciating physical pain. Pain that I feel has made me a stronger and better person in the face of few resources at times.
    Here in Cide, on the Black Sea, for 3 days trying to eradicate a tooth infection and associated sharp pain with antibiotics before moving on east to have it extracted somewhere in a bigger town.
    Such has been the risk of adhoc dentistry in numerous countries over the last 5 years.
    Having an extremely positive mind and doing something that brings me so much enjoyment, both worldly and spiritually renders these small set backs, just part of the greater journey. Where for me, the unknown of each day, provides a lust for life, that proudly, is not driven by the accumulation of unnecessary wealth and material items. Things that render many people my age, time poor and unable to truly breakfree from the world they know, though they may desire to do so.
    Having said this, it is always refreshing being around people who are genuinely passionate about their existence, whatever that may be, not their possessions!!
    My comments to anyone considering this or any kind of adventure, are to depart in possession of unlimited time. Having this, will make it so much more rewarding than that of unlimited money! Of course some helps!!
    It's time to drop 2 more Dexiren,
    Damn it
 
15/3/2016    Enabolu to Turkeli, Cetin hotel
D57, T4, Av14.14, max55, 51560, 835, Alt up952
Wet
After two relaxing days here it was good to be on the road again.
Coming on to the sea shore, there were some reasonable waves. A weather system was in the north over the Ukraine and Russia.
It was a grey old day but it felt so good to be riding again. The road continued along the coast. Up and down continuously.
Again every reasonable size town had a high class safe marina. These have probably been constructed for strategic reasons.
The road followed the coast again. There is such a contrast from day to day. On overcast days everything is so bleak, yet on fine clear days it is just magical. The extremes are great.
I stopped for lunch in Abana, after having a good look around for a suitable place to eat. All were over priced I felt. A place was found that was well heated with a little wood burner.
Here two bowls of soup were enjoyed. Whilst eating it began to pour outside. It was perfect timing.
The hazelnut trees are well advanced here with a lot of leaf out. The day was cold and damp, the only way to beat it was to keep moving. It is tricky in this hill country. One moment you are hot and sweaty then the next going down the hills it is very cold as the sweat chills.
On arrival in Turkeli, there were two hotels in the main downtown area, it was a small seaside village,. One looked closed and the other turned out to be a full size apartment like place. It was heated with a bar heater but was very spacious and warm.
There were three beds to choose from. I am trying to avoid camping on these very cold nights. I don’t mind. Though when a reasonable priced hotel can be found I tend to opt for the room. .
 
 
 
 
16/3/2016    Turkeli, Cetin hotel to Sinop, Reis hotel
D95, T6.38, Av14.38, max60, 51663, 930 , Alt up1613
Wet
Having so much room, I decided to cook fried potatoes for breakfast. Having had little for dinner last night, muesli was also enjoyed. I am buying small packs of UHT milk which is everywhere for sale here. Milk powder is only available in the bigger supermarkets.
There was a steady climb a few km from town. The roads were still very wet and rough in places.
Once this was negotiated, the road levelled out quite a bit. At the top snow was only just a couple of hundred metres above me on the hills, it was very cold.
There were no places to eat at for most of the trip to Sinop. In a small village a market next to a cay house was stopped at here just some basic stuff was bought, some chocolate and biscuits which were enjoyed over a couple of cays.
Riding along the flatish good condition road, a dog come running from behind a wire fence and come out onto the road and promptly latched onto mty rear pannier to the point where he slowed me down. I gave him a good yelling at. Ironically Yuri had been attacked by the same dog.
As said most dogs here are just all bark.
Getting closer to Sinop, there was lush pasture, sheep were seen grazing with their owners and dogs nearby. It reminded me of Africa where this is a very common sight, especially in Ethiopia.
Once in Sinop, it was difficult to find a hotel that was cheap. Some students said I could stay with them but their apartment was 10 floors up. This was no good. I finally booked the hotel Reis it was costly at 60Tl but was comfortable with great views down to Gerze across the water and to  the snow covered hills.
It had been a big day. I wandered down to the local restaurant and had Lahmacun.
Back at the room sleep came very easy in the heated room after a good hot shower.
 
17/3/2016    Sinop, Reis hotel to Gerze, Yelcin and Elifs house
D38, T2.3, Av14.91, max76, 51702, 968 , Alt up1491
Still very cols about 8°c
Check out was at 1200, so I took my time leaving, just enjoying the warmth and luxury. I wandered into town to buy some new cereal. A walk along the waterfront was also enjoyed. It took me past the old castle walls here in the town.
It was only 38km to my Warmshowers hosts house in Gerze, so there was no hurry.
The road was a dual lane highway, with gentle slopes. It was very easy riding. Though interactions with people were minimal.
I got into Gerze, early and was actually very cold, so tried to find a good restaurant with a warm interior. One was found and Corba enjoyed. A soup.
Yelcin came to meet me, we rode back to his house together. It was a heritage house 100 years old. They had spent time fixing it up . Now it was very livable. Upstairs they had a coal, wood heater in a small room. This was divinely warm. We chatted at length. Elif interviewed me for her blog.
They have both done some cycle touring around Turkey. They cooked up a great pasta meal. We chatted into the night .
I slept on the sofa in the heated room.
We laughed because the other day before Sinop I saw some people loading Dahpne onto a truck. I showed them a photo. It turned out the boy on the tractor was one of her students who had phoned in to say he could not make it to school.
You can’t get away with much these days with all the cameras about, especially those on phones.
 18/3/2016    Gerze, Yelcin and Elifs house to a bush camp 8km before Bafra
D76, T5, Av14.91, max51, 51778, 1044 , Alt up771
Still very cols about 8°c, warmed up as I left the coast.
 I had told Elif I would do the dishes for them, there was a huge pile. It was a pleasure doing them, I don’t  do this very often, plus it left me with very warm hands. In town I had corba and Ekmek for breakfast .
I took the old road leaving town, this took me through small villages and up one huge but enjoyable to climb. The new highway was below following the coast in many parts. I stopped at the top of the climb and had Ekmek and the Turkish version of Nutella.
The skies above Turkey are always full of passenger jets. Today I saw 14 planes all at once heading towards Europe. They looked like they were having a race.
It was easy to tell the 380’s and Jumbos by the 4 plumes of jet stream at their rear.
Turkish air space is the safest around these parts I guess.
From here it was all downhill to the new road again.
It was easy riding. I past some factories that absolutely smelt of rotting rich fish.
I stopped at the fishing port of Takakent. Here I had a chat with the fishermen. There is a huge offshore fish farming industry here. The smell coming from the factories was that of fish meal to feed the farmed fish that are held in pens off the coast. The larger trawlers fish in the north up by the Ukraine I was told. I stopped here at a great home cooked restaurant.
I thought about stopping here as it was a relaxed kind of town. No hotels were suitably priced. Looking at the forecast the possibility to camp was available without getting rained upon. The riding was still on dead flat land. As I moved away from the sea it warmed up.
About 8km before Bafra, I found an opening in the guard rail and looked about the fields covered in new grasses. There was a remnant deciduous stand of trees that looked like a good campsite .
I had little water with me. Having had stopped at two houses where no one was home I could only find some water in a bucket that I used to fill one old water bottle. It would have to be boiled to ensure it being free of unwanted organisms.
It was great to be camping again. I set up in the trees. The problem was that the under growth consisted of many thorny vines. A path had to be cleared before the bike could be taken in.
A huge pasta was enjoyed. During the night, I got up for a pee and a local dog spotted me. He proceeded to bark continuously. The only was to stop him with confrontation was to fall back to sleep!!
The tent was on a good slope so sleeping was easy.
19/3/2016   Bush camp 8km before Bafra to Atakent, near Samsun
D48, T2.3, Av18.70, max57, 51825, 1092 , Alt up257
Mild with afternoon rain, day actually got colder.
I was in bed early and as usual awoke early, apart from the dog it had been an uneventful night.
I just had coffee for breakfast, took my time to pack in the hope the tent would dry a little. Though there was no rain the tent was heavily condensated.
I left the area unseen. Some 7km down the road a stop was made at a gas station, here I pitched the tent. In the mild air and wind it was dry in half an hour.
I stopped for lunch in another town. The road now was urbanised all the way. I stopped in another town for fresh fruit and ended up with a flat tyre. This repaired on the footpath with quite an audience. Some guys kindly bought me cay.
Once fixed, I stopped to eat the kiwifruit in a bus shelter. Another few km on and the tyre started deflating again.
Good fortune was upon me as there was a good bike shop almost at the place I pulled in. Here I bought a new tube. The one being repaired was splitting on the rim side. I also bought a small tube of grease, to grease the points where the gear cables go under the frame.
The road got back to the coast again, and with it the cooler temperatures began.
It had looked like rain all morning, it had that feel about it.
It started as I got onto the foreshores at Takakent. I decided to look for a hotel here.
There were ritzy cafes all along the promenade. I was riding on the cycle track here. Going up a side street I chanced up the Blue Dolphin hotel. They gave me a discount for two nights. It was great value for the facilities. In the rain that afternoon I took a 2TL bus ride into the city for a look around. It was a very wet afternoon and evening.
 
Washing was done and a good shower and shave taken.
The next morning there was this huge breakfast laid on. All sorts of good things like olives and other fruit and cakes.


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Time for some reflection and thoughts at Cide
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the old original houses had this local stone as roofing
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The last views of the day that fog band on the horizon closed in about 1400hrs
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Inebolu was a town with a good feel about it. Lots of eateries, chemists and fruit shops. They grow kiwifruit around here.
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A weather system in the Ukraine and Russia created this sea and the associated unsettled weather
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seaside Mosque, near Turkeli
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No casual meal is complete without Ayran
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Spacious room at Turkeli
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Juri, such a great guy, a shame we did not cross paths near a place to camp
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good clean spring water everywhere
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Tiny houses Turkeli Harbour
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So much work has been done on this Turkish Black Sea coast
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Green pastures near Sinop
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Loading Daphne for Izmir
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The dog and his charges
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Entering Sinop
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view from my room in Sinop looking SE to Gerze
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more tunnels through some big hills.
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Sinop harbour
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Takakent harbour.
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the race is on!
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waterfront Atakent, Samsun in the background.
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Main street puncture repairs.
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Yelcin and Elif, great company and hosts for a night.
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forest camp near Bafra, away from the coast and mild but damp.
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Yelcin and Elifs lovely old heritage home. These timber homes are often clad in sheet tin. It is over 100 years old.
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My new Ribcap beany with some head protection inside. It is super warm . First time out leaving Sinop.
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on these cold days, seeing these kind f activities remind it only going to get warmer, near Samsun
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