25/1/2014 Rio Lasifashaj to Ushuaia
D49, T3/5, Av16, Max 57, Tot 25,369, 15,411 (Medellín to Ushuaia)
Fine and mild, light wind.
Awake early, I headed off for a fish upstream. The creek banks, river and surrounding area were littered with dead trees, both standing and lying on the ground. Beaver slides were observed along the creek banks.
I tried to imagine the beauty of this place and the pristine river before man and his animals arrived.
It must have been a place of so much beauty as the silent, then silt free creek must have flowed through the lush Beech forest.
No fish were caught. Trees everywhere had been felled or partly chewed by the Beavers.
Back at camp we leisurely packed and got on the road at 1130.
This was to be the last part of the ride for me. I was still coming to terms with how the whole trip had gone so smoothly, really with no extreme weather events except for the dust storm in northern Argentina. I can remember only packing a wet tent on no more than 10 occasions.
Today was a perfect Patagonian day, though cool, the sun was sharing a blue sky with a few clouds.
Conditions were near perfect. Having read blogs about people getting blown over whilst walking their bikes down here, we were expecting the worst.
Our time here on the island has pretty much been in light winds.
Once back on the main road, traffic was heavy. Many cars tooted, they must have understood that many loaded cyclists riding into their town were nearing the end of long journeys.
It was great encouragement.
Most of the way into Ushuaia I was playing my favourite songs on my headphones. It all added to the excitement and anticipation of arrival.
It was something else to have Callum along with me also.
The weather was so mild I was riding in shorts and short. This changed as we rode into the final valley approaching Ushuaia, a bitterly cold breeze was funneling up the valley.
On arrival into the outskirts of town we took a few obligatory photos.
It was great to know we didn’t have to go hostal hunting. Lunch was bought at the supermarket and we headed to the foreshores for bread rolls, meat and salad with a mate.
As arranged, we caught up with Matías at his house at 1830.
The night was fittingly spent in the Dublin bar with Matías and an English couple. It was classic bar for good beers on tap, the hum of conversation, food at the bar in a crowded buzzing atmosphere.
It was a late night.
This bike ride in the Americas, for me has been one of the most enjoyable and rewarding experiences of my life. The people here in South America have made this ride even more enjoyable. Their hospitality, help given with their language, directions ( some dodgey I might add!!) and everso relaxed way of life helped make each day such a pleasure.
The scenery and culture experienced along the way further enriched the experience.
There are so many people I could thank, though I would like to make special mention to:
Warren, on SV Moodance at Brisas de Amador, Panama, Tona for providing inspiration along the road from Panama to Medellín, and Dave with whom I sailed from Panama to Santa Marta on SV Bijou.
Beatrice, Olga and Guy in Medellín for their hospitality and looking after my bike for a few months, Devon for his company in Ecuador, Deirdre for her good company in Peru and Bolivia, Dorothy for her company and inspiration in Argentina. Camillo, Gustavo and family in Temuco for their hospitality and Alex for his company on the Carratera Austral.
Also to all the other cyclists, I spent time with on the road, campsites and hostals.
Last but not least, my son, Callum who accompanied me through some of the most beautiful parts of the journey in Patagonia on the Carratera Austral. He provided our team with fresh trout most of the way and the best pasta and tuna dishes.
A big thanks to friends and family back in New Zealand and Australia.
Really, the most favourite passage on the journey was from Chachapuyas to Cajamarca in the mountains of Peru. Riding high in the Andes was like looking out a large aircraft window at the clouds below.
This is not to take anything away from any other kilometre in each country.
The trip from Santa Marta, in Colombia to Ushuaia in Argentina covered 16,102 kms and took a few days less than a year. Santa Marta is close to 10 degrees lat north of the equator and Ushuaia is nearly 55 south, as the crow flies that is 6276 km, it was great to do 10,000km just browsin' about east and west, away from the Pan American highway.
Finally, once again all my heartfelt thanks goes to the people of South America whom I encountered along the way, you made me feel comfortable and safe at all times. Thankyou.
Also thanks to the readers of my blog who generally numbered from 200 to 500 each day, you kept me writing, thanks for putting up with my opinions and wayward thoughts documented on the occasional day.
Here in Ushuaia all thanks to go to Matías for having us at his home.
D49, T3/5, Av16, Max 57, Tot 25,369, 15,411 (Medellín to Ushuaia)
Fine and mild, light wind.
Awake early, I headed off for a fish upstream. The creek banks, river and surrounding area were littered with dead trees, both standing and lying on the ground. Beaver slides were observed along the creek banks.
I tried to imagine the beauty of this place and the pristine river before man and his animals arrived.
It must have been a place of so much beauty as the silent, then silt free creek must have flowed through the lush Beech forest.
No fish were caught. Trees everywhere had been felled or partly chewed by the Beavers.
Back at camp we leisurely packed and got on the road at 1130.
This was to be the last part of the ride for me. I was still coming to terms with how the whole trip had gone so smoothly, really with no extreme weather events except for the dust storm in northern Argentina. I can remember only packing a wet tent on no more than 10 occasions.
Today was a perfect Patagonian day, though cool, the sun was sharing a blue sky with a few clouds.
Conditions were near perfect. Having read blogs about people getting blown over whilst walking their bikes down here, we were expecting the worst.
Our time here on the island has pretty much been in light winds.
Once back on the main road, traffic was heavy. Many cars tooted, they must have understood that many loaded cyclists riding into their town were nearing the end of long journeys.
It was great encouragement.
Most of the way into Ushuaia I was playing my favourite songs on my headphones. It all added to the excitement and anticipation of arrival.
It was something else to have Callum along with me also.
The weather was so mild I was riding in shorts and short. This changed as we rode into the final valley approaching Ushuaia, a bitterly cold breeze was funneling up the valley.
On arrival into the outskirts of town we took a few obligatory photos.
It was great to know we didn’t have to go hostal hunting. Lunch was bought at the supermarket and we headed to the foreshores for bread rolls, meat and salad with a mate.
As arranged, we caught up with Matías at his house at 1830.
The night was fittingly spent in the Dublin bar with Matías and an English couple. It was classic bar for good beers on tap, the hum of conversation, food at the bar in a crowded buzzing atmosphere.
It was a late night.
This bike ride in the Americas, for me has been one of the most enjoyable and rewarding experiences of my life. The people here in South America have made this ride even more enjoyable. Their hospitality, help given with their language, directions ( some dodgey I might add!!) and everso relaxed way of life helped make each day such a pleasure.
The scenery and culture experienced along the way further enriched the experience.
There are so many people I could thank, though I would like to make special mention to:
Warren, on SV Moodance at Brisas de Amador, Panama, Tona for providing inspiration along the road from Panama to Medellín, and Dave with whom I sailed from Panama to Santa Marta on SV Bijou.
Beatrice, Olga and Guy in Medellín for their hospitality and looking after my bike for a few months, Devon for his company in Ecuador, Deirdre for her good company in Peru and Bolivia, Dorothy for her company and inspiration in Argentina. Camillo, Gustavo and family in Temuco for their hospitality and Alex for his company on the Carratera Austral.
Also to all the other cyclists, I spent time with on the road, campsites and hostals.
Last but not least, my son, Callum who accompanied me through some of the most beautiful parts of the journey in Patagonia on the Carratera Austral. He provided our team with fresh trout most of the way and the best pasta and tuna dishes.
A big thanks to friends and family back in New Zealand and Australia.
Really, the most favourite passage on the journey was from Chachapuyas to Cajamarca in the mountains of Peru. Riding high in the Andes was like looking out a large aircraft window at the clouds below.
This is not to take anything away from any other kilometre in each country.
The trip from Santa Marta, in Colombia to Ushuaia in Argentina covered 16,102 kms and took a few days less than a year. Santa Marta is close to 10 degrees lat north of the equator and Ushuaia is nearly 55 south, as the crow flies that is 6276 km, it was great to do 10,000km just browsin' about east and west, away from the Pan American highway.
Finally, once again all my heartfelt thanks goes to the people of South America whom I encountered along the way, you made me feel comfortable and safe at all times. Thankyou.
Also thanks to the readers of my blog who generally numbered from 200 to 500 each day, you kept me writing, thanks for putting up with my opinions and wayward thoughts documented on the occasional day.
Here in Ushuaia all thanks to go to Matías for having us at his home.