Friday 20th to Monday 23 Portobelo
Geting under way about 1000 we headed to the fuel tug. It was a still morning, one ideally suited to a vessel without reverse. Even though a spring line had to be fastened to the tug fairly promptly.
We informed the refueller we had no reverse, what Dave didn’t tell him was he hadn’t had reverse for two years!!
Portobelo was an easy 4 hour motor sail along the coast. It was nice to leave the marina, it all got to easy there, especially parting with greenbacks. A beer or a meal was only a 100m away.
We pulled into Portobelo about 1400, some 50 other yachts were anchored in this idyllic bay well sheltered from the prevailing nor easters, the trades.
Following a solid pick in, a swim was enjoyed after Dave convinced me there were no crocs in the bay, the swim was brief to say the least, fodder for crocs was not how I wanted to depart from proceedings.
Hoping for a fresh fillet of fish a bit of line dangling was enjoyed, ever so relaxing fish or no fish. Even the fish were not interested in Daves ham.
On dusk friends of daves,Bigette and Reiner from Germany popped over from Elsa. A bit younger than me, they were a great couple we had lots of laughs, rum and beer.
Brigette is a lovely lady, animated and enthusiastic would best describe her , Reiners english was a bit short, however speaking slow we all enjoyed a catch up .
They were wrapped to see Dave, they had spent 6mths in Curacao off Venezuela a year ago and had great memories and stories from their time there.
The air here is much cooler and pretty much mossy free ah, bliss at night in bed.
Saturday 21 April
Going ashore in the morning, a little bit of exploring was done in town. Captain Jacks was visited, a great bar and accommadation hang for backpackers and sailors alike.
If you are in Portobelo Jack can organize almost anything for sailors and passages for backpackers to Cartegena.
Visit him on www.captainjackvoyages.com. Jack is a good bugger and a wealth of information laced with some good laughs.
Browsing about a fresh fish was enjoyed at a great little everso "on the street" cafe.
The afternoon was spent onboard reading and studying some Spanish, which has been lacking since becoming part of the cruising community here in Panama.
Dave is a prolific reader knocking off the best part of a thriller a day. Me, I am a kind of guy that needs to be doing stuff. The afternoon was a combination of reading, studying, sleeping, pottering and studying, all good.
Brigette and Reiner had invited us over for a home cooked german meal, the milk of the mother would sum up the spicy meatball, tangy cucumber salad, potato and onion meal enjoyed over the now obligatory Bacardi or Abeullo rums and Balboa beers.
Great stories were swapped with much laughter.
Brigette was telling me a german publishing company want her to write a book on their adventures, 4 years to date. They however want it tarted up which she is not happy about.
Reality is often in the most idyllic bays, fixing diesel engines and other mechanical or electrical necessities onboard. She wont bend and is going to look for another publisher, good on her.
The enjoyment I get from writing was also discussed. I thank you readers of browsinabout, you now number 300 on some days. Hoping to keep you entertained needs me to be in a bit of a zone as I write, most days this is achieved, though sometimes tarting up an otherwise ordinary day on the road can be stretching. South America hopefully will keep these kind of days to a minimum.
Sunday 22 April 2012
Yesterday a kayak hire for today was arranged at Jacks. Evan from a neighboring yacht and myself had decided to paddle up the local river at the head of the bay.
We got away in steamy conditions at 0930. A bit of exploring never goes astray. Paddling upstream as far as we could, until timber and current blocked our passage we walked in the jungle for a couple of hours, seeing numerous colourful birds and luxuriant plants as we proceeded, Brahman cattle were grazing parts of the area, so spotting numerous wildlife was not going to happen.
I was a great 4 hours and good upper body exercise which has been non existent for some time.
The afternoon was spent at Jacks and exploring the forts here. The Spanish shipped most of their plundered gold from here to Spain. The atmosphere at Jacks is great with a bar, TV, internet and people from all parts of the globe frequenting the place.
Dave and I got away from there at about 1900 hrs, be sure to try their great Thai menu.
Brigette had invited us to a BBQ on Tuesday at a bay here. However a great window of northerlies for 4 days has been forecast, meaning we will have a straight run to Santa Marta some 350 miles away. We decided to depart tomorrow.
Monday 23 April 2012
Arising early we readied Bijou for the passage, tender aboard, covers off, the securing of items that get left about when at anchor and setting up the wind vein auto pilot.
It was a wet day, one fitting for our departure. It is hard to believe I am actually leaving Panama.
A country I will never forget as long as I am able to think about “kicking an empty can along a footpath”.
An hour into the passage the alternator belt started slipping, Dave sorted this fairly readily.
This whole time we were experiencing a torrential tropical downpour with visibility down to 500m.
It was however warm as expected but body temperature was not being maintained. It was the first time an ice breaker garment had been adorned for some time. My raincoat was also given a good washing.
At 1200 Dave decided we best get the watch pattern under way, this being 3 hr watches.
The sea was sloppy, it was wet and the wind was on the nose, we were averaging 3 knots, a far cry from the false security of Shelter Bay. A cry that has been welcomed, a cry that echos the real world of sailing, a cry hopefully not heard all the way to Santa Marta.
More on Panama:
.Its roads offered me a safe passage unlike those of Costa Rica. Playa Lajas was a paradise not expected. Las Bresas with Warren introduced me to cruising in this part of the world. Warren introduced me to Panama City and its vibrancy. Playa Gorgona at Semana Santa was a very special time in special company, that of John and all those whom I shared the weekend with.
Passage in the canal both night and day was a privilege to behold.
Time with Dave in Shelter Bay further introduced me to cruising in the tropics. Portobelo dragged my mind back in history, to days of piracy and uncountable wealth in gold, departing its place of origin and its rightful owners.
Tuesday 24th, 25th April and 26th April
It rained all day, in four words that's what happened, though not miserable it was still not what was in the adds. However most importantly we had a northerly wind carry us on a port tack directly in the direction of Santa Marta.
The shift system was becoming habitual, myself on the graveyard edition, 0300 to 0600, fine, for me sunrise is one of the better parts of any day.
We were averaging about 5 knots under a reefed main and jib, as the wind increased the staysail replaced the jib and speed was maintained, the engine ran all day, so in effect we needed to motor sail as we were about as high as Bijou has a full keel and could not point to high.
We headed on one port reach into the Caribbean until we could bear away on a beam reach to our destination. During the night we experienced a wind shift back to normal trades, this had us heading for the headland where the Rio Magdelena enters the ocean.
Dave had said this huge river transports whole trees to the ocean at times of floods. This debris is often out to sea from the mouth, we were at least 8 miles wide and sure enough huge trunks and all sorts of other once thriving vegetative matter came drifting by by, much of it neutral bouyant, it was just luck we didn’t hit something, at worst big dramas, mediocre, damaging the wind vein, at best just a thump. Local knowledge of this hazard helped. The wider the Rio Magdelena is passed the better.
The days were spent watching flying fish and wondering whether they were flying for fun or out of fear. A few landed in the cockpit at night, observations lead me to believe that these guys don't have much room for a brain and they take to the air to escape predators, though in all fairness to these brilliant little gliders maybe some of them were just having fun and checking things out aloft, hope so.
Due to the shifts we are having, we don't talk much, just what has to be said, maybe a bit more, we are both happy with our own company, this fact made for a special passage. For me I had my ipod and the reflection of 10 months of nothing but positive experiences, letting my thoughts drift back to the Mississippi, Houston, Granada and Panama City, my mind was pleasantly lubricated with warmth and ease.
That for the previous 5 weeks prior to this trip, so much time had been spent in the company of others, the solitude onboard was an ideal opportunity to let my mind wander in such a dynamic environment.
A big thanks to Dave, Tigre and Bijou and not forgetting the trade winds that shaped so much history in this part of the world.
Tigers enthusiasm at sea added to the atmosphere, always on the look out for dolphins, many of which accompanied us for short periods.
During the day of the 26th we tacked out to sea for 15 miles, to get a straight run to Santa Marta. We arrived in Santa Marta in ideal conditions about 2345hrs, both feeling in reasonable shape.
Checking emails and having the first shower and shave for 7 days, feeling like a million bucks could best describe my disposition.
One problem did exist, my butt was covered in red spots and was a tad painful from sitting on wet cushions for 6 days, it wasn’t a pretty sight in the mirror one might add.
Who knows how this on a leather seat will cope, at least it will be dry it is hoped. The marina guy said average daytime temps are about 25 with little rain as yet.
Geting under way about 1000 we headed to the fuel tug. It was a still morning, one ideally suited to a vessel without reverse. Even though a spring line had to be fastened to the tug fairly promptly.
We informed the refueller we had no reverse, what Dave didn’t tell him was he hadn’t had reverse for two years!!
Portobelo was an easy 4 hour motor sail along the coast. It was nice to leave the marina, it all got to easy there, especially parting with greenbacks. A beer or a meal was only a 100m away.
We pulled into Portobelo about 1400, some 50 other yachts were anchored in this idyllic bay well sheltered from the prevailing nor easters, the trades.
Following a solid pick in, a swim was enjoyed after Dave convinced me there were no crocs in the bay, the swim was brief to say the least, fodder for crocs was not how I wanted to depart from proceedings.
Hoping for a fresh fillet of fish a bit of line dangling was enjoyed, ever so relaxing fish or no fish. Even the fish were not interested in Daves ham.
On dusk friends of daves,Bigette and Reiner from Germany popped over from Elsa. A bit younger than me, they were a great couple we had lots of laughs, rum and beer.
Brigette is a lovely lady, animated and enthusiastic would best describe her , Reiners english was a bit short, however speaking slow we all enjoyed a catch up .
They were wrapped to see Dave, they had spent 6mths in Curacao off Venezuela a year ago and had great memories and stories from their time there.
The air here is much cooler and pretty much mossy free ah, bliss at night in bed.
Saturday 21 April
Going ashore in the morning, a little bit of exploring was done in town. Captain Jacks was visited, a great bar and accommadation hang for backpackers and sailors alike.
If you are in Portobelo Jack can organize almost anything for sailors and passages for backpackers to Cartegena.
Visit him on www.captainjackvoyages.com. Jack is a good bugger and a wealth of information laced with some good laughs.
Browsing about a fresh fish was enjoyed at a great little everso "on the street" cafe.
The afternoon was spent onboard reading and studying some Spanish, which has been lacking since becoming part of the cruising community here in Panama.
Dave is a prolific reader knocking off the best part of a thriller a day. Me, I am a kind of guy that needs to be doing stuff. The afternoon was a combination of reading, studying, sleeping, pottering and studying, all good.
Brigette and Reiner had invited us over for a home cooked german meal, the milk of the mother would sum up the spicy meatball, tangy cucumber salad, potato and onion meal enjoyed over the now obligatory Bacardi or Abeullo rums and Balboa beers.
Great stories were swapped with much laughter.
Brigette was telling me a german publishing company want her to write a book on their adventures, 4 years to date. They however want it tarted up which she is not happy about.
Reality is often in the most idyllic bays, fixing diesel engines and other mechanical or electrical necessities onboard. She wont bend and is going to look for another publisher, good on her.
The enjoyment I get from writing was also discussed. I thank you readers of browsinabout, you now number 300 on some days. Hoping to keep you entertained needs me to be in a bit of a zone as I write, most days this is achieved, though sometimes tarting up an otherwise ordinary day on the road can be stretching. South America hopefully will keep these kind of days to a minimum.
Sunday 22 April 2012
Yesterday a kayak hire for today was arranged at Jacks. Evan from a neighboring yacht and myself had decided to paddle up the local river at the head of the bay.
We got away in steamy conditions at 0930. A bit of exploring never goes astray. Paddling upstream as far as we could, until timber and current blocked our passage we walked in the jungle for a couple of hours, seeing numerous colourful birds and luxuriant plants as we proceeded, Brahman cattle were grazing parts of the area, so spotting numerous wildlife was not going to happen.
I was a great 4 hours and good upper body exercise which has been non existent for some time.
The afternoon was spent at Jacks and exploring the forts here. The Spanish shipped most of their plundered gold from here to Spain. The atmosphere at Jacks is great with a bar, TV, internet and people from all parts of the globe frequenting the place.
Dave and I got away from there at about 1900 hrs, be sure to try their great Thai menu.
Brigette had invited us to a BBQ on Tuesday at a bay here. However a great window of northerlies for 4 days has been forecast, meaning we will have a straight run to Santa Marta some 350 miles away. We decided to depart tomorrow.
Monday 23 April 2012
Arising early we readied Bijou for the passage, tender aboard, covers off, the securing of items that get left about when at anchor and setting up the wind vein auto pilot.
It was a wet day, one fitting for our departure. It is hard to believe I am actually leaving Panama.
A country I will never forget as long as I am able to think about “kicking an empty can along a footpath”.
An hour into the passage the alternator belt started slipping, Dave sorted this fairly readily.
This whole time we were experiencing a torrential tropical downpour with visibility down to 500m.
It was however warm as expected but body temperature was not being maintained. It was the first time an ice breaker garment had been adorned for some time. My raincoat was also given a good washing.
At 1200 Dave decided we best get the watch pattern under way, this being 3 hr watches.
The sea was sloppy, it was wet and the wind was on the nose, we were averaging 3 knots, a far cry from the false security of Shelter Bay. A cry that has been welcomed, a cry that echos the real world of sailing, a cry hopefully not heard all the way to Santa Marta.
More on Panama:
.Its roads offered me a safe passage unlike those of Costa Rica. Playa Lajas was a paradise not expected. Las Bresas with Warren introduced me to cruising in this part of the world. Warren introduced me to Panama City and its vibrancy. Playa Gorgona at Semana Santa was a very special time in special company, that of John and all those whom I shared the weekend with.
Passage in the canal both night and day was a privilege to behold.
Time with Dave in Shelter Bay further introduced me to cruising in the tropics. Portobelo dragged my mind back in history, to days of piracy and uncountable wealth in gold, departing its place of origin and its rightful owners.
Tuesday 24th, 25th April and 26th April
It rained all day, in four words that's what happened, though not miserable it was still not what was in the adds. However most importantly we had a northerly wind carry us on a port tack directly in the direction of Santa Marta.
The shift system was becoming habitual, myself on the graveyard edition, 0300 to 0600, fine, for me sunrise is one of the better parts of any day.
We were averaging about 5 knots under a reefed main and jib, as the wind increased the staysail replaced the jib and speed was maintained, the engine ran all day, so in effect we needed to motor sail as we were about as high as Bijou has a full keel and could not point to high.
We headed on one port reach into the Caribbean until we could bear away on a beam reach to our destination. During the night we experienced a wind shift back to normal trades, this had us heading for the headland where the Rio Magdelena enters the ocean.
Dave had said this huge river transports whole trees to the ocean at times of floods. This debris is often out to sea from the mouth, we were at least 8 miles wide and sure enough huge trunks and all sorts of other once thriving vegetative matter came drifting by by, much of it neutral bouyant, it was just luck we didn’t hit something, at worst big dramas, mediocre, damaging the wind vein, at best just a thump. Local knowledge of this hazard helped. The wider the Rio Magdelena is passed the better.
The days were spent watching flying fish and wondering whether they were flying for fun or out of fear. A few landed in the cockpit at night, observations lead me to believe that these guys don't have much room for a brain and they take to the air to escape predators, though in all fairness to these brilliant little gliders maybe some of them were just having fun and checking things out aloft, hope so.
Due to the shifts we are having, we don't talk much, just what has to be said, maybe a bit more, we are both happy with our own company, this fact made for a special passage. For me I had my ipod and the reflection of 10 months of nothing but positive experiences, letting my thoughts drift back to the Mississippi, Houston, Granada and Panama City, my mind was pleasantly lubricated with warmth and ease.
That for the previous 5 weeks prior to this trip, so much time had been spent in the company of others, the solitude onboard was an ideal opportunity to let my mind wander in such a dynamic environment.
A big thanks to Dave, Tigre and Bijou and not forgetting the trade winds that shaped so much history in this part of the world.
Tigers enthusiasm at sea added to the atmosphere, always on the look out for dolphins, many of which accompanied us for short periods.
During the day of the 26th we tacked out to sea for 15 miles, to get a straight run to Santa Marta. We arrived in Santa Marta in ideal conditions about 2345hrs, both feeling in reasonable shape.
Checking emails and having the first shower and shave for 7 days, feeling like a million bucks could best describe my disposition.
One problem did exist, my butt was covered in red spots and was a tad painful from sitting on wet cushions for 6 days, it wasn’t a pretty sight in the mirror one might add.
Who knows how this on a leather seat will cope, at least it will be dry it is hoped. The marina guy said average daytime temps are about 25 with little rain as yet.
A bit of upper body exercise, river at head of Portobelo bay
looking west, lit with a less than brilliant sunrise
Tiger on the look out for anything beyond blue.
Two modes of long distance transport generally outside the circle.
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A similar scene to a few hundred years ago only different vessels at anchor today
Seas bigger than this meant the cockpit was only dry behind the dodger, though no spot offered refuge for a wet bum.
Constant port tack saw this spot always occupied by each of us off watch
Adios amigos, it was a great sailing experience to be onboard with a solo sailor in every sense of the definition, I learnt alot, not just about sailing.
A glimpse of downtown Santa Marta Colombia
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