7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba
D111, T7/8, Av15.48, Max68, Tot14030, 3965
It is getting cooler everyday, as winter sets and as the distance from the equator increases
Leaving town, a glass of emoliente was enjoyed, this time with some sugar. Soon outside city limits, the road narrowed and things became very rural.
Many woman were now wearing the traditional straw hats. The women were generally spinning wool yarn, they do it while walking and doing anything else where two hands are free.
The scenery was pretty unspectacular compared to the last week. This I have to get used to. Infact, a bit flat, describes my disposition.
Thinking back on the last week. To date it was easily the most overwhelming riding experience so far. I would recommend this ride to anyone who is adventurous and importantly be prepared to push themselves a bit. It would be a great ride to do in a small group, bearing in mind almost all the time you can’t ride in a position to talk. About now would be a good time to do it, the rains are over and it is neither to hot or cold.
To make the trip more enjoyable and not place unrealistic time schedules on those involved, camping is a must. Camping also immerses you further into the journey.
The whole trip from the Ecuadorean border at Macará to Cajamarca takes in everything from the desert, lush mountains, arid mountains, rice growing, other cropping, dairying, hot river valleys, cold tussock covered alpine areas and interesting towns. All with people as diverse as these respective environments.
Stopping for lunch, chicken was enjoyed, though a tad raw, not all was eaten. Arriving in San Marcos it was decided to ride onto Cajabamba. On the way out of town, a couple of guys sitting on the kerb outside a bodega would not let me leave before having a beer while them. All the excuses in the world were thwarted when they said “For Peru”!! The buggers, so they poured me a glass of Trujillo Pilsner. One of the best beers had to date.
Anyway we laughed and I moved on. Some time up the road, which all day had been just rolling hills though altitude was always being gathered.
Getting near Ichocan, 2592m, my stomach was playing up .I knew Cajabamba was not a proposition. I had been just plodding along.
I stopped for a drink at a tienda, was offered a chair and spent time there with the family.
About 1km up the road, a blue building had a sign up saying “Se vende Coca”. By now I was feeling pretty ordinary below the chest. Spewing was not out of the option. I put it down to the beer, though the chicken lunch was earlier blamed.
I was in the frame of mind, as experienced before where any excuse to stop was found.
I went in and started yakking with the owner, a great guy, the leaf was 12S for a pound. He sold the natural catalyst, Cal. So I bought some of that and also a calero which is a hollowed out gourd, with a push in top with a spike on it to dip into the white powder and activate the chewed leaves in your mouth.
I said I was feeling bad in my stomach, he gave me a bunch of leaves which were chewed. Adding the cal to my mouth. The same feeling of numbness occurred.
Some five minutes later after alot talking with other people who came by, my well being was suddenly better, it really did alleviate any preoccupation with my stomach.
A lot of the locals here were users, they were all pretty laid back, many of the guys were about my age. It was an enjoyable interaction. Up the street another with a bulge in his cheek the size of a golf ball was hanging street side, a huge bag of leaf was in his hand.
It felt good not to be feeling nauseas, though the going was still tough.
Fortunately, the top of the range was reached offering vistas of the Rio Cajamarca valley. With this came a 10km downhill run, it was enjoyed so much, the day had been pretty hard, in my condition.
Finding out that Cajabamba was up the range ahead, water was bought and camping spots were eyed.
Getting to one corner on a knoll there was a house and a girl outside. Asking her if I could spend one night there she said yes. I asked her if her parents didn’t mind it was ok.
They were a lovely family, they fed me, their young son Gheyner had a flat tyre on his bike so we repaired that and talked about the farm and other things.
They had had other cyclists there in the past, Aussies had just been there recently.
They had it all, cabra, cuy, patos, ovejas, vaca, perros, gatos, pollos, pavo. Gheyner was told to get a chook for their next dinner, It was classic they all flew up into this tree, he tried to climb and reach them.
He said they knew when one of them had to provide food for the family. Though there were many pollitos running about to replace any losses.
They had no power, though were on town water. It is hard to imagine life without some form of electricity.
My stove is now what I would class as bloody unreliable. I was lucky to boil water on the surging flame.
D111, T7/8, Av15.48, Max68, Tot14030, 3965
It is getting cooler everyday, as winter sets and as the distance from the equator increases
Leaving town, a glass of emoliente was enjoyed, this time with some sugar. Soon outside city limits, the road narrowed and things became very rural.
Many woman were now wearing the traditional straw hats. The women were generally spinning wool yarn, they do it while walking and doing anything else where two hands are free.
The scenery was pretty unspectacular compared to the last week. This I have to get used to. Infact, a bit flat, describes my disposition.
Thinking back on the last week. To date it was easily the most overwhelming riding experience so far. I would recommend this ride to anyone who is adventurous and importantly be prepared to push themselves a bit. It would be a great ride to do in a small group, bearing in mind almost all the time you can’t ride in a position to talk. About now would be a good time to do it, the rains are over and it is neither to hot or cold.
To make the trip more enjoyable and not place unrealistic time schedules on those involved, camping is a must. Camping also immerses you further into the journey.
The whole trip from the Ecuadorean border at Macará to Cajamarca takes in everything from the desert, lush mountains, arid mountains, rice growing, other cropping, dairying, hot river valleys, cold tussock covered alpine areas and interesting towns. All with people as diverse as these respective environments.
Stopping for lunch, chicken was enjoyed, though a tad raw, not all was eaten. Arriving in San Marcos it was decided to ride onto Cajabamba. On the way out of town, a couple of guys sitting on the kerb outside a bodega would not let me leave before having a beer while them. All the excuses in the world were thwarted when they said “For Peru”!! The buggers, so they poured me a glass of Trujillo Pilsner. One of the best beers had to date.
Anyway we laughed and I moved on. Some time up the road, which all day had been just rolling hills though altitude was always being gathered.
Getting near Ichocan, 2592m, my stomach was playing up .I knew Cajabamba was not a proposition. I had been just plodding along.
I stopped for a drink at a tienda, was offered a chair and spent time there with the family.
About 1km up the road, a blue building had a sign up saying “Se vende Coca”. By now I was feeling pretty ordinary below the chest. Spewing was not out of the option. I put it down to the beer, though the chicken lunch was earlier blamed.
I was in the frame of mind, as experienced before where any excuse to stop was found.
I went in and started yakking with the owner, a great guy, the leaf was 12S for a pound. He sold the natural catalyst, Cal. So I bought some of that and also a calero which is a hollowed out gourd, with a push in top with a spike on it to dip into the white powder and activate the chewed leaves in your mouth.
I said I was feeling bad in my stomach, he gave me a bunch of leaves which were chewed. Adding the cal to my mouth. The same feeling of numbness occurred.
Some five minutes later after alot talking with other people who came by, my well being was suddenly better, it really did alleviate any preoccupation with my stomach.
A lot of the locals here were users, they were all pretty laid back, many of the guys were about my age. It was an enjoyable interaction. Up the street another with a bulge in his cheek the size of a golf ball was hanging street side, a huge bag of leaf was in his hand.
It felt good not to be feeling nauseas, though the going was still tough.
Fortunately, the top of the range was reached offering vistas of the Rio Cajamarca valley. With this came a 10km downhill run, it was enjoyed so much, the day had been pretty hard, in my condition.
Finding out that Cajabamba was up the range ahead, water was bought and camping spots were eyed.
Getting to one corner on a knoll there was a house and a girl outside. Asking her if I could spend one night there she said yes. I asked her if her parents didn’t mind it was ok.
They were a lovely family, they fed me, their young son Gheyner had a flat tyre on his bike so we repaired that and talked about the farm and other things.
They had had other cyclists there in the past, Aussies had just been there recently.
They had it all, cabra, cuy, patos, ovejas, vaca, perros, gatos, pollos, pavo. Gheyner was told to get a chook for their next dinner, It was classic they all flew up into this tree, he tried to climb and reach them.
He said they knew when one of them had to provide food for the family. Though there were many pollitos running about to replace any losses.
They had no power, though were on town water. It is hard to imagine life without some form of electricity.
My stove is now what I would class as bloody unreliable. I was lucky to boil water on the surging flame.
Looking down to the Cajamarca river valley
Camp for the night
El parque San Marcos
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Lovely coloured natural clay finish
Cuy, eaten everywhere around here, people are also seen carrying and cutting grass for these oversized rats. I am not overly fussed on them, but will try one again sometime. They don't look to happy do they?
twelve soles a pound, such a friendly family.
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