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  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
As Sir David Attenborough said, “Our biggest problem is, there are too many of us here on our planet”.

Quite literally, it seems we will have to keep taking natural resources until they are all gone.

This song by Canadian, Bruce Cockburn, was released in 1988. We have all been extremely busy destroying  forest ecosystems for these last 26 years.


Here in the Amazon Basin, I find myself thinking about this often. Though not an avid environmentalist, it is important for me to be aware and consider the environment I travel in.






11/2014 Rurópolis to Rio Igurapa do Onca

D87 (11 around Rurópolis) T7, Av13.47, Max56, 6479, 32,005

Fine, a few clouds and not unbearably hot

I had got into bed about 2300, things had been packed, others had been discarded. My bag, that I travelled here with was left behind, as was the old stool and a Portuguese phrase book.

Most people have some idea what I am talking about when Spanish is used, I also have a few Portuguese apps on my phone.

Arising at 0330, a coffee was enjoyed using my Resistencia in the room.

No jet lag was being experienced, as my watch was changed to Brasilia time in Atlanta.

The hotel is also the bus stop in town so there are people about all night. I took my coffee out to enjoy in the street.

Here some people were waiting for a bus to Altamira, infact most people spoken to are going to Altamira, it is where all the work is.

A woman and her companions told me they were from the area north of here, up a river then by bus up near the Venezuelan border.

There is only one way to get there. This fascinates me. The river and bus transport system allows these people to be mobile. They were heading to Altamira hoping to find work. I told them the accommodation was expensive.

I spoke to other people about a side road I hope to take in the next couple of days to get me off Ruta 163.

Having a huge breakfast of bread, ham and cheese and watermelon, which was complimentary in the hotel. Ruta 163 was found and after getting some air in my tyres and topping up on fresh cold water, the time was 0830.

Leaving town the road was paved.

On the two bus trips here, both in the dark, little attention was payed to the road. It is best not to know too much about what is ahead. It makes it all too predictable, all I knew was there is a mix of asphalt and tar with no huge hills.

It was again, so refreshing to be ambling along, the first beads of sweat soon surfaced on my forehead, it was a good feeling.

Nearly a month of comparative excesses, were on their way to being purged.

Taking my time, caring not to overdo the effort, it was nice to know that there would be no more spoke issues with the rear wheel. I hope!

In hindsight, both rims should have been replaced.

An email has been received, Tubus are kindly sending two replacement racks to Nicaragua. The front and rear rack are both sporting welds from repairs due to metal fatigue and vibration.

These racks in my opinion are about as good as you can get. At times they have been overloaded, possibly leading to their cracking.

Corrugated roads don’t help either.

Thousands of kilometres in Peru, Chile and Argentina were ridden on teeth loosening corrugations.

Some twenty km from town the asphalt ended, there were road works for miles.

It was oddly enough nice to be back among the trucks of the Soya Express.

Dozens of them always in groups of two or more were heading to the Cargill facility at Santarém.

A few were pulled up on the roadside repairing a tyre.

They told me that the round trip from Mato Grosso is 16 days and they always return empty.

They are carrying corn to feed animals in China.

I find it hard to reconcile how they can drive back for 8 days without a load and still make money. Some were returning with three of their axles lifted from the road to save on tyre wear.  

All their trucks are state of the art floating cab European brands.

The guys gave me a couple of bottles of frozen water. Back on Ruta 163, the road that runs due north passing through Cuiaba, most drivers were on business whether reps or the truck drivers.

Again everyone is so friendly, tooting and waving, especially the guys in the dump trucks moving soil for the road construction.

The soya drivers also give me the thumbs and a wave.

Thinking about this constant stream of corn. A monster, reminiscent of Shrek, in China can be imagined sitting at a table with a napkin hanging from his neck and a spoon in both hands. He is eating from a huge plate, just as he takes a spoonful, on the other side of the world these trucks are keeping his plate forever full, one by one, they see that he does not ever reach into an empty bowl.

In a few years when the Nicaraguan canal is completed by the Chinese, his appetite will even get bigger.

Much vegetation here in the Amazon is most certainly and sadly on borrowed time.

Unimaginable diversity, making way for a frightening monoculture.

All the country to my left is parkland and is heavy jungle, the eastern side is settled.

Small clearings are everywhere and usually occupied by a dwelling. Coming to a small settlement called Sadrok, a stop was made and a few empanadas were eaten and three drinks of Acai enjoyed. This is the purple drink derived from palm seeds. It had sugar in it. The flavour is kind of like a bland blackberry juice.

I like it.

By now, the heat of the day was settling in. It was 33 degrees in the shade.

I could feel the sun burning my face, short of  wearing a balaclava,  it is hard to protect it, sunblock would just get wiped off.

Some 8km down the road, all hell broke loose.

Only just making it onto the roadside, my pants were dropped and a major anal purge took place.

My feelings were, it was not from food, but more of a physiological event. Five hours of exertion in extreme heat after time not doing little exercise. After all, it was only a day and a half since I was on a plane, almost motionless, eating less than desirable food.

Following this episode my stomach was still rumbling, a stop was needed. Finding a break in the jungle, the bike was wheeled down a small track.

It like all places that offer privacy was a bush toilet.

None were fresh and I needed to lie down. The air was cooler in the shade.

The kitchen tarp was spread out and my raincoat used for a pillow.

My body was drenched in sweat mixed with dust.

This discomfort was very secondary, it was so good to lie down.

Unfortunately, the ants found me within half an hour. Though not biting, they were everywhere.

The need to get out of here was paramount. Back on the road and still on asphalt, I just ambled along mindful of my less than adapted body.

Soon a lanchonette was seen, her an hour or more was spent drinking coconuts, eating a sweet cake, drinking water and just watching all the travellers pull in.

The rest was great, there was also washing facilities here.

I was stirring up the young girl about Portuguese and how difficult it is it understand. We had a lot of laughs.

She had no idea half the time what I was on about. Reluctantly heading on about 1630, a full load of water was taken. Some 3 km down the road, some guys were sewing bags full of black seeds that had been drying in the sun.

To my surprise, it was peppercorns they were drying and packing.

 We chatted and they kindly gave me a small bag of the delicious little berries. I carry a plastic disposable grinder, it can be refilled, these will replenish the grinder.

Time now was spent looking for a camp along the road. Some 8-10 km further, a bridge was crossed, I turned around to look at the river from its rails.

A perfect camping spot was seen in a kind of parking area below the bridge.

Down here were some timbers, in the shallows to sit on.

Moments after arriving a group of young guys turned up to wash clothes and themselves.

They were great friendly guys, we swam together and talked about the animals. They tried to tell me at night big Jacaré are here.

We laughed. They were standing in the clear waters soaping and slapping their soapy clothes on the washboard.

This was such a good camp. I felt safe enough to pitch my tent in full view of the road.

People out here are for the most part so friendly, thoughts of confrontations or theft are not entertained. Almost always, a relaxed feeling is experienced around the locals .

Dinner was pasta and tuna as usual. It was actually great to be eating familiar food again. My recovery from the earlier problems was nearly complete, my appetite indicated this.

Washing was done on the riverbank.

I was in the tent at 2030, dog tired in a relaxed state, reflecting on how nice it was to be back in central Brazil without a care in the world other than those associated with shelter, my wellbeing and food.

Sleep came rapidly.  

12/9/2014  Rio Igurapa do Onca to small quarry

D86, T8, Av15.39, Max 53, 32091/6,565

Slight northerly, 35+ , overcast with patchy blue skies

 Awaking very early, my blog was updated with pleasure.

A heavy dew had layered the locale, the fly was soaked, sleeping with it only over the lower part of my body, the mesh in the tent when exposed to the skies allows for a better sleeping temperature. The night was uneventful except for some voices heard in the very early hours. Their owners must have been up on the road.

The morning was cool, by that I mean 20+ degrees. Soon as the sun hit camp, it rose into the mid twenties.

Within 10 minutes of its arrival the river was beckoning , the swim was so divine, I remember thinking it would be so nice just to wallow in it all day.

An early morning fish was enjoyed with no luck.

Small yellow kingfishers were sitting on branches overhanging the silently flowing tannin stained but clear waters. All too clean for Jacaré.

The sun had the fly dry in no time. Once on the road the asphalt continued.

An interesting point was whilst waiting in line for the flight to Manaus, a conversation was started with two engineers who were travelling there to check safety procedures on a hydro  dam.

They said many Brasilleiros, are now flying for the first time. It was quite obvious, as many are in line half an hour before the boarding time. It was so interesting watching them, they were excited, full of anticipation, laced with a touch of fear.

I always remember the first plane flight for me, those emotions were also present.

The guys went on to tell me that they can buy tickets and pay them off interest free over a year.

He showed me his ticket. There it was, a hundred down and twelve equal instalments.

Same old story, there is no such thing as a free meal when dealing with big business today. Their airfare had cost 300 dollars more than mine. I commented on this and they agreed.

Importantly it does get people mobile, and the ability to see family or friends thousands of miles away in this huge country, is worth the burden of debt I guess.

My body is still getting used to the exertion in the heat, I am taking things for granted.

At home, one would not even  think of heading out for a ride in the heat of the day, where 25-27 is considered hot. Let alone move 50kg along for the ride.

For me this is where small amounts of adrenalin come in very handy, it flows freely in my body. This comes from the overall excitement of this never-ending adventure of life for me. The burden of the gear is often felt   when it is not flowing.

Coming upon a little bar under the shadow of a bamboo clump a stop was made for refreshments.

Felling no guilt, a litre of coke was bought, the other options were little better.

These little bars sell  nothing but sugar laced drinks in large and small bottles but water only in small bottles.

On departure a good amount of iced water from his fridge was drunk and some taken .

Once reaching the turn off to take the western road to Santarém was reached, a stop was made at a house to see if I could actually get to Santarém. They said it was open.

They also said there was a small village 4km in with a lanchonette. Great , my stomach was calling  for food. At about 4km and coming down a hill, there at the bottom was a low bridge with kids swimming. No sooner had a place to put the bike  been found, it was down to my boxers and straight into the cooling waters. For the time my hunger was forgotten about. It  was unbelievably refreshing.

The locals told me there was a restaurant in town just up the rise.

Once in there I asked about. A place was found,  where it seemed the whole town was eating. They said I could have food but didn’t have to pay.

Many in the community ate here every day. It was rice, beef and chicken.

Sao Jorge as the town was called was home the 450 people. Time was spent talking to a bunch of school children, they learn English in their later years at school.

On asking about the road to Santarém, they told me it was open but sections had  calf muscle deep sand in places. Sand is my biggest nightmare on the road.

Hearing this was enough to make me had back to the highway, though not before plunging back in the river waters on the way.

Back on the highway, a sign some 10km on said something about a sustainable forest project. A tack left the highway, it was about 1500 and unbearably hot.

This track gave me some shelter from the relentless heat and sun.

Soon I came to a deserted building. Here was a lemon tree, a bush lemon, some were picked and squeezed into my drink bottle.

Beyond the building the track continued. I could ride it. Looking at the forest floor, no one had been here for a long time.

Soon the vegetation got thick and the light diminished.

It had been logged, the only large trees remaining had little timber value due to bent trunks or forks half way up.

Monkeys were seen climbing in these older vine clad giants.

Opening a gate and crossing a power easement the track led deeper into the now very dark under story.

If water could be found here I would camp the night.

Unfortunately, the track followed a ridge, no water was found, so I headed back to the road.

Much of this forest was regrowth, only one old large stump was found. Decay in this climate must be rapid. Also given the fact that this area was  logged in the 70’s, forty years has hidden the destruction that must have taken place here.

The place must have been full of arboreal animals, few remain.

From here, some 15km, a moto was seen on the side of the road, still asphalt I might add.

Here was a guy with his two kids swimming and washing in a clear water hole. So was I, within 5 minutes.

The young girl, about 5 was such a good swimmer, we swam out into deep water, she was a cute as a button and swam like a dolphin, full of confidence. With her  brother, they were showing me their diving skills. They were full of enthusiasm, it was a special encounter, their dad was a good guy, telling me about the road around here. Little was understood, but who cares. It was all about doing our best.

These waterholes are a blessing. Today had been a day of perfectly timed swims. Clothes were rinsed here also.

Moving on, a silver Hilux pulled up ahead, I had an idea who it was.

Out of the driver’s door climbed Honorio, whom I had shared a meal with at the Hotel Pires in Rurópolis. He had a friend with him.

It was great to see him. We had arranged to catch up in Santarém where he lives.

He told me to come and stay at his house.

He plays table tennis, a game I enjoy alot. We chatted for awhile. He is patient and understands some Spanish. He too is an enthusiastic guy. He said I could put the bike in the pickup. I tried to explain that I did not do this. Though thanking him sincerely.

By now it was 1800hrs, my tether was stretched, the need for a camp was paramount. A church was stopped at, the neighbour did not want me camping there. He gave me a full load of water and with difficulty the pedals were made to revolve late in the day.

Only just down the road a small quarry was seen behind a high spot on the roadside.

On inspection it was humble but met all prerequisites. Those of a tent site, not visible from the road and remarkably ant free.

I was totally exhausted, only able to have milo and noodles for dinner, and on my back in the tent by 1930.

Todays lunch in Sao Jorge had kept hunger at bay.

It was like a sauna in the tent as air could not flow in my almost subterranean abode for the night .

I most definitely can’t remember much after 10 minutes inside the tent.

13/9/2014 Quarry to Alter do Chao

D64, Av 15, T7, 6629/32155

Hot with medium strength northerly

I was awake at 0400, the moon cast ample light to be able to make coffee.

A good sleep was enjoyed there was no point in hanging about. I was packed and on the road by 0715.

All the brown dirt in the quarry got a bit tacky in the dew so a bit was along for the ride.

My body is still not in sync with time here as yet.

Normally the need to move my bowels is first thing in the morning, for the last 3 days this chore has been performed in the afternoon. To date with less than desired solidity.

The time is slowly getting reined in, today just after midday saw me sitting on the invisible chair in the bush.

In these conditions, when a bodily function is not working perfectly, the symptoms are exaggerated. I have had a slight stomach unease for all this time.  

On the road, there was quite a strong head wind from the north. I guessed the presence of a huge body of water up ahead created this pressure difference. It had a cooling affect.

However, riding was hard work. My energy soon dwindled and a gel was needed to keep me going.

Thankfully a gas station was roadside and a stop was made. Here 3 cocinha de frangos were enjoyed. They are plumb bob shaped and contain meat among other options surrounded by potato and are fried of course. These were homemade by the woman, they were divine.

I was told the road to Balterra and on to Alter do Chao was 2km ahead.

In Balterra, my tent was hung to dry in a park for half an hour. A great restaurant was found where ckicken and rice with salad eased my hunger.

A right turn was made here to take the route to the tourist town of Alter do Chao.

Santarém  / POP 281,000 Santarém has two distinct personalities, befitting its location at the confluence of the creamy brown Amazon river and the much darker Rio Tapajós. On one hand, it’s a reasonably pleasant city, with river breezes and a wide waterfront promenade, popular with families, joggers and even cruise-ship passengers. On the other hand, popular with families, joggers and even cruise-ship passengers. On the other hand, it’s also a gritty port town – through which vast quantities of soy are funneled onto huge cargo ships – and host to an odd mix of port workers, businessmen, ship crews and hangers-on. Passenger boats between Belém and Manaus stop here, and it’s a great place to get off and break up the journey. You can also hop on a bus to Alter do Chão, a cool little town 35km away with white-sand river beaches and a laid-back backpacker vibe. Both Santarém and Alter do Chão provide easy access to the Floresta Nacional (FLONA) do Tapajós, a beautiful national forest where you can hike, canoe and stay the night with rubber-tapper families.Lonely Planet;

The asphalt soon turned to a sandy hard packed surface.

The forest was a dry type in the creamy sandy soils present. Coming down one hill, the vista down the road through the forest contained a lovely chunk of blue, that of the huge river Tapájos. It was quite a sight, so much water, all flowing and so far from the coast.

The road was now becoming difficult and dangerous to negotiate, with patches of deep sand.

There was a descent to the waters edge, here among lots of people in riverside cabanas, a swim was enjoyed in the tepid brown waters.

I now appreciate the waters of the relatively clear, cool waters of the small rivers I had been swimming in. These waters were nowhere near as refreshing.

Taking the turn to Alter, the road got worse, sections needed to be walked.

The most dangerous thing about riding in sand is coming off alongside an oncoming car.

A few occasions saw me drop the bike in the ankle deep loose sand.

On arrival in Alter do Chau, there were people everywhere.

A ride was taken down to the waterfront. It truly was a beautiful spot with the famous sand island teeming with people out the front of the riverside promenade.

They were having their annual festival tonight.

My thoughts immediately turned to lodgings for the night, or lack thereof.

Asking about, most were full and grossly overpriced.

An hour later down a dirt road still within town the Pousada Coracao Verde was spotted.

The owner said he had a room. At 50R a night it was cheap, two nights were booked.

My room was spacious though up one level. Being constructed in timber and brightly painted it had a relaxed feel about it.

A shower was taken in cooling waters.. My airbed was washed alongside me in the shower. It had accrued some mould in the 3 weeks whilst packed.

My sleeping bag also needed a good airing,.

The afternoon was spent meandering around town, people watching .There were people here from all over Brazil.  

There were any number of people selling Coconuts to drink, at 3R they were 1R more than those on the road in the small towns.

The internet though available did not work due to the overload of users.

 

 

 

14/9/2014 Alter do Chao

 Tour to Comunidade de Jamaraquá

5 hrs in 5m aluminium riverboat

Last night, with all intentions of going to the festival, some food was eaten in the streets. There were thousands of people everywhere in the balmy overly warm evening.

One look at the huge lines to the arena was enough to send me back to the pousada.

Extreme tiredness best describes my feelings at the time. My body and its out of sync, my bowel motions coupled with two 80km+ days  in the mid to late thirties had taken its toll.

Earlier a tour had been booked, somewhat reluctantly. I am not a fan of these types of excursions where a thousand people day in and day out have trode the paths, eaten in the houses and asked dumb questions of the guide and worst of all often rudely taken photos of people without asking or with little respect.

However, my curiosity got the better of me, for I wanted to see rubber trees and the sap extraction method.

Also importantly the two other guys coming along, were the kind of people that you instantly took a liking to. Both were in their twenties and long term travellers. One from Israel and the other USA.

We all haggled and got the over priced trip down to just and expensive foray.

As arranged we met at the waterfront at 0830 and headed up the huge rio Tapájos in an open dingy with a 40hp outboard on the back.

The three of us got to know each other on the 3 hr trip.

Itay, the Israeli had been up all night. Mike not so late.

He had just finished his compulsory 3 yr service in the military in Israel, spent some time doing engineering and was now on the move. Some in Angola, so his Portuguese was good. Mike on the other hand, had done a tour in Iraq.

It was so interesting talking about all the ever so different aspects of their lives.

Israelis, many of them travel in SA after the military; do not visit Paraguay in any numbers because of the high Muslim population there.

He also said that Suriname, both Guyanas and Venezuela are a no go zone for many his countrymen because of the same reason.

In La Paz, Bolivia, he said the Bolivianos do not like the Israelis and are very rude to them. As far as tours are concerned in the city. An Israeli company does the guiding.

Incidentily, the Bolivianos are not too keen on people from the US either.

It is nice to see very poor but proud countries like Bolivia, make statements like this and act accordingly. For centuries, they have been exploited both physically and politically.

The book “The Open Veins of South America” tells of this appalling exploitation from artefacts to slave labour in the Peruvian mines and  the sugar and rubber industries of Brazil. Almost all the gains were removed from this continent.

Mikes  story, about his outfit, whilst on a mission in the food bowl in Northern Iraq was something I find difficult to come to terms with.

They were waiting for three guided missles to arrive from Baghdad, hundreds of miles away. Just like expecting the arrival of a bus at a station.

The first one was remotely controlled to hit the stronghold. The others just followed.

They must have arrived in town like three outlaws used to in a western movie, just casually winging their way in. Modern day outlaws, like their predecessors still causing death and destruction.

He said he was proud to serve his nation, after his tour, he was offered huge money to work for Blackwater. He could not justify this kind of service for any amount of money. Words from his heart, I sensed.

Anyway, that’s the big picture, we got on well and had heaps of laughs.

Included was a walk, snorkelling and most fascinating of all, a canoe trip through the half submerged forest on the shores of the Tapájos river.

An unreal lunch of fresh fish and salad was enjoyed in the great company of a family. A lot of light hearted waffle was discussed around the table.

We were especially stirring Itay who met a nice Brasileira at the festival and was all excited about the content of her return text message about his possible stay at her apartment in Santarém.

The boat trip back was in choppy waters, we got drenched, the water must have been 28 degrees. We disembrked in the dark.

Regardless of the cost it had been an unreal day, sharing our experiences and life styles, intermingled with lots of laughs and light conversation.

Our guides were probably happy to not have had a thousand questions asked of them.

The evening saw us have a few beers over a light meal.

It really had been a day in great company.

Our tour company was Mae Natureza Ecoturismo, the owners were great guys who could speak Español, English and Portuguese.

I would recommend them.

 Touring by bicycle, one  realises, how much you do intimately see and experience along the way in less than predictable circumstances.  

15-16/9/2014 Santarém to Almeirim

Bike and MV Breno

D47, T4, Av13.3, Max57, 32202/6676

Fine and hot, with lovely river breeze

Up early as usual, things were packed and plenty eaten for breakfast. On moving the bike from the room it was found the front tyre was flat. Caesar the owner helped me with it down the cliff like wooden staircase.

The tyre was repaired in leisurely time.

 It was an easy ride to Santarém, though there was no shoulder, the traffic was not a problem. Like everywhere I have been in Brazil, the drivers are courteous. As usual tooting from behind if they think they may endanger me as they pass.

To my amazement coming down a gentle hill was another touring cyclist heading to Alter. We both nearly rode past each other, thinking we were each a mirage.

It was so good to have a chat for an hour. Caesar was on his way from Sao Paulo to Colombia and possibly Panama.

I told him about the pousada in Alter which was really good value considering Mike and Itay just had a hammock spot outside for 30R.

Arriving in Santarém my front tyre was pumped up to about 65lbs at a borracharia.

My next move was to the waterfront.

Here I meet Mike and Itay was staying with his lady friend for the night, Mike had a hotel.

We had lunch. I looked about for a hotel but all were with rooms on the 1st floor accessed by ridiculously small narrow staircases.

Two hotels in a row with stairs was not on.

Honorio had text me to say he could catch me tomorrow, as he was out of town on work.

One of the huge advantages of travelling alone now came into play. That of being able to change plans without having to see everyone is happy.

I text Honorio to thank him for his offer and booked the MV Breno to Almeirin on the Amazon River still in Pará. A fifteen hour trip for 70R ($35)

Santarém was a large city, really just a commercial centre. It was bustling, with shops packed in everywhere in the one streets down by the waterfront.

Sadly, grey water was running freely in these streets, all to the lowest point, you guessed it, into the Tapájos and Amazon rivers.

Lately, some  of my gear is wearing out, two days ago my riding pants had a small hole in the bum, by the time I got to Alter it was a good job I had underpants on. These were tossed.

My sandals again lost some webbing from the sole. This was glued back in and stitched for added strength .

Once again,   this glue proved it worth to be carried. Some cheap nylon  loose fitting shorts were bought to replace my Patagonia pants.

The MV Breno left at 1830 from the  busy foreshores. Here there was a promenade with people selling kababs, fruit, drinks, ice creams and all manner of accessories like sunglasses.

Tied up, bow to shore was a huge line up of river boats gunwale to gunwale, almost all sporting blue and white.

People were shouldering cargo across the promenade to these vessels.

Each one probably had a tributary or town that it took goods and people to. Waterfronts are great places.

Sitting on the ledge, 3 chickens kebabs were eaten. It was such a pleasure to watch the rivermen at work. The vendor was informed that he made the best chicken kebabs in Brazil!!

The river Tapájos flows on the Santarém side whilst the brown waters of the Amazon can be seen in the distance. Earlier I had swum off some steps on the promenade.

Two old men were bathing and washing themselves in the clear tannin stained warm waters.

Upstream on the shores could be seen the huge Cargill Soya Bean and corn loading facility. This represents the new Amazon basin.

Dockside at the ferry was like something from a movie set, people were singing through PA systems to try and sell their CD’s.

Others were carrying up to four boxes and bags on their shoulders to another large vessel tied up on the other side of the old converted barges that had plate welded  on them to provide a pontoon that extended into the river.

Food carts were everywhere.

A guy with his legs bent at the knees hanging over the dock infront of our boat was hand lining and with regularity catching small Paku. Once caught they were released into an onion bag hanging in the brown water.

People lined the three decks dockside, there was lots to watch while we all waited for the final cargo and passengers to be aboard.

On the cargo deck were cars, motos, boxes of fish, fruit, pineapples, and items of machinery.

My ticket included dinner and breakfast.

Once under way we were all told to go to the upper decks as we passed the water authority, once past we were free to wander where we wanted.

Everyone had a hammock and these were slung on the hundreds of hooks on rows, each numbered. The vessel could carry 500 plus people and cargo.

My hammock was slung next to the bike. This was a palace on water compared to the trip to Concepción.

The dinner was filling and a good nights sleep after a shower.

A couple of ports were stopped at overnight. There was quite a bit of river traffic.

In the morning, a breakfast of fruit was supplied with coffee. I was ashore in Almeirim at 0830.

It was an effortless passage, a great sleep was had, a shower, breakfast, disembarking, I felt as fresh as a daisy.

A hotel was booked for the night.  Every hotel room stayed in for the last few weeks has had hammock hooks secured to the walls, in earlier times this would have been the standard sleeping arrangement.

The internet is very slow here in Almeirin, I will post more photos as it speeds up nearer the coast maybe.

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The old and the new
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Back on Ruta 163 with the great guys from the Soya Express.
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