10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range up a side road, camping
D76, T4.21,8, Av17.40, Max61, Tot18833, 9671
(first time is hours ridden as logged, second is actual time with rests etc.)
Fine, cool morning afternoon easterlies
Up fairly early, due to the sun reaching me early.
I had a great nights sleep after watching the movie “Gangster Squad” starring Sean Penn. Little did I know but from here there was an easy downhill run for some time through gullies whose sides were clad with tall cacti.
Coming out of the gullies, some adobe cottages were noticed. They were very much intact, it looked like no one lived there, so heading down, I took some photos. They were constructed of the local stone, adobe and the grasses formed the roof which was then covered in adobe and small stones.
Soon I was in dead flat country again, a morning tail wind from the west aided me to cruise at about 28km/hr for miles.
Coming to the beginning of Salinas Grande, a car carrier was pulled over. I stopped to talk to the guys to see if they had problems. They were there to pay their respects at a tombe of a young friend that was killed here on this dead straight road two months ago.
How did it happen I asked. Tagically, the cab on his semi became detatched and tipped over forwards, bizarre.
I thought about it, and have included a photo of the tombe, he was such a young guy. I feel his family and friends would not object. Though I obviously did not know him, this is my way of showing respect and a reminder of how we take highway deaths, no matter where in the world, as an acceptable hazard of life.
They told me the second hand cars come from Japan to a port in Chile and are taken to Paraguay, it is an 8 day round trip, they drive back empty. The road is treacherous with mountains, snow, sharp bends and ever so long descents, it must necessitate such reliable brakes. Most trucks travel in groups of two.
The guys kindly gave me water.
Soon I was at the Salinas Grande proper, there were people on trail bike everywhere and a huge salt extraction set up.
One large touristy type place was made from blocks of salt.
A Dutch woman, a really interesting, enthusiastic lady, came to talk to me, her husband and her were travelling around the Americas in a Merc truck come mobile home.
She commented on my aftershave, shit, I hadn’t washed or showered for 4 days and had clothes on that had been worn for 7 days and slept in as well.
What a compliment. Anyway, Deirdre had bought over a small bottle of Patchouli oil for me. I love the smell of this essential oil and drop a dab on, here and there. Especially on my neck warmer, it wafts of as I’m riding. I didn’t realise how strong it was. Even the grubby three guys could smell it. Kurt said it was his mums favourite also.
While I was chatting, three other cyclists came into view.
It was Lucas, Loic and Kurt. It was great to see them. I had meet Lucas way back at the Casa de Ciclista in Trujillo.
We had lunch together on the edge of the Salar.
Here I met a guy, who was playing some great music in his car. Heading over for a chat, he told me he was a musician.
We chatted about music. He gave me a few CD’s of Argentine music. I will be using this music on the blog whilst here in AR.
They had caught me because they took a truck up the hill from San Pedro. Fair call, as they had already ridden the road.
We rode together for a few hours. At the foot of the range a couple of us wanted to camp there and a couple go over the range, it was already 1530.
So, we tossed a coin. It came up heads, to ride over. Loic had a sleeping bag that was not up to the cold. It was here or over.
We had head winds.
The guys travel much lighter than me. We had afternoon head winds out of the east.
These young buggers just powered, after about 5km, I decided my health was at risk to ride over or try to keep up.
They laughed again at all my little luxuries.
I found a side road before it got to steep and set up camp for the night.
For dinner, I had pasta, tuna, sardines, coffee and tea.
It effectively was lightening the load for the 46 km tomorrow to Purmamarca.
Listening to the music given to me, I fell asleep.
I had already ridden 70km, one look at the huge range ahead was enough to make me look for the nights camp.
Riding over would be much better in the morning while fresh and the weather warm.
D76, T4.21,8, Av17.40, Max61, Tot18833, 9671
(first time is hours ridden as logged, second is actual time with rests etc.)
Fine, cool morning afternoon easterlies
Up fairly early, due to the sun reaching me early.
I had a great nights sleep after watching the movie “Gangster Squad” starring Sean Penn. Little did I know but from here there was an easy downhill run for some time through gullies whose sides were clad with tall cacti.
Coming out of the gullies, some adobe cottages were noticed. They were very much intact, it looked like no one lived there, so heading down, I took some photos. They were constructed of the local stone, adobe and the grasses formed the roof which was then covered in adobe and small stones.
Soon I was in dead flat country again, a morning tail wind from the west aided me to cruise at about 28km/hr for miles.
Coming to the beginning of Salinas Grande, a car carrier was pulled over. I stopped to talk to the guys to see if they had problems. They were there to pay their respects at a tombe of a young friend that was killed here on this dead straight road two months ago.
How did it happen I asked. Tagically, the cab on his semi became detatched and tipped over forwards, bizarre.
I thought about it, and have included a photo of the tombe, he was such a young guy. I feel his family and friends would not object. Though I obviously did not know him, this is my way of showing respect and a reminder of how we take highway deaths, no matter where in the world, as an acceptable hazard of life.
They told me the second hand cars come from Japan to a port in Chile and are taken to Paraguay, it is an 8 day round trip, they drive back empty. The road is treacherous with mountains, snow, sharp bends and ever so long descents, it must necessitate such reliable brakes. Most trucks travel in groups of two.
The guys kindly gave me water.
Soon I was at the Salinas Grande proper, there were people on trail bike everywhere and a huge salt extraction set up.
One large touristy type place was made from blocks of salt.
A Dutch woman, a really interesting, enthusiastic lady, came to talk to me, her husband and her were travelling around the Americas in a Merc truck come mobile home.
She commented on my aftershave, shit, I hadn’t washed or showered for 4 days and had clothes on that had been worn for 7 days and slept in as well.
What a compliment. Anyway, Deirdre had bought over a small bottle of Patchouli oil for me. I love the smell of this essential oil and drop a dab on, here and there. Especially on my neck warmer, it wafts of as I’m riding. I didn’t realise how strong it was. Even the grubby three guys could smell it. Kurt said it was his mums favourite also.
While I was chatting, three other cyclists came into view.
It was Lucas, Loic and Kurt. It was great to see them. I had meet Lucas way back at the Casa de Ciclista in Trujillo.
We had lunch together on the edge of the Salar.
Here I met a guy, who was playing some great music in his car. Heading over for a chat, he told me he was a musician.
We chatted about music. He gave me a few CD’s of Argentine music. I will be using this music on the blog whilst here in AR.
They had caught me because they took a truck up the hill from San Pedro. Fair call, as they had already ridden the road.
We rode together for a few hours. At the foot of the range a couple of us wanted to camp there and a couple go over the range, it was already 1530.
So, we tossed a coin. It came up heads, to ride over. Loic had a sleeping bag that was not up to the cold. It was here or over.
We had head winds.
The guys travel much lighter than me. We had afternoon head winds out of the east.
These young buggers just powered, after about 5km, I decided my health was at risk to ride over or try to keep up.
They laughed again at all my little luxuries.
I found a side road before it got to steep and set up camp for the night.
For dinner, I had pasta, tuna, sardines, coffee and tea.
It effectively was lightening the load for the 46 km tomorrow to Purmamarca.
Listening to the music given to me, I fell asleep.
I had already ridden 70km, one look at the huge range ahead was enough to make me look for the nights camp.
Riding over would be much better in the morning while fresh and the weather warm.
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