19-20/1/2014 Gdor. Phillipe to Punta Arenas
D50, T2.5, Av21.17, Max44, Tot 24,876, 14,989
Overcast light winds
It rained early morning, so we just stayed in the tent a little longer. It soon abated and we arose to a half pleasant day.
We were thankful for the Calafate bushes offering shelter for the night.
Again, we had an easy ride into Punta Arenas, the wind was a great aid. The approach into town was endless. Finally getting there, we found the Barefoot Backpackers that others had recommended.
We got the last double room, it was very basic but sufficed. Importantly, it had a good kitchen. Here we cooked chicken on the first night and a roast of beef the second night. Both meals were first class.
Much time was spent in the room relaxing. Chris and Judith, the Swiss couple stayed for 1 night.
We also visited the Duty Free shopping area that Punta Arenas is famous for, Cal needed new headphones. My translator finally succumbed to the constant vibration on the gravel roads. It has been such a help with my Spanish. It was a Franklin BES 2150, great little piece of gear, much better than a dictionary. Importantly it had all the verb conjugations. One was not located at the centre.
Punta Arenas is the last major city on the South American mainland, a point of interest is that south of here is the most southerly point of the continent.
21/1/2014 Punta Arenas to near the Onaisin intersection
D114, TT8, Av17.48, Max 52, D24,990, 15,103
Fine 12°, moderate winds SW
Finding out the ferry to Porvenir we had to get up and get organised early. This we did and cooked coffee and porridge in the room as the kitchen was locked.
During the proceedings, we found cal had a rear flat tyre.
We got it repaired with much hassle with the chain getting twisted.
We loaded the bikes and the tyre was without air again.
We had no choice but to head to the ferry, Cal would have to scoot the bike.
The owner of the hostal said it was close.
Once we got to the waterfront. All this here is very new with a cycle track incorporated.
Asking people we found out it was 8km along here to the ferry.
We were in the shit, Cal could not walk a loaded bike that far.
We unloaded his bike and I had to ride with it alongside me the rest of the way.
Cal caught a taxi with all his gear.
We just made the 0900 ferry. The next one was not till 1600 in the afternoon.
The vessel was totally full of vehicles and half a dozen motos. No other cyclists, oddly enough.
We again repaired the tyre on the cargo deck.
The trip was about 2.5 hours across. Time was spent with a Brazillian couple on a BMW moto. They were on a months leave. They were doing 500km a day.
So were doing Ushuaia in one day.
From one extreme to the other, we all laughed at the difference in our arrival times in Ushuaia. Theirs, a day ours 4.
Cals tyre was again flat, it had to be a valve problem as no bubbles were sighted leaving the submerged tube on the waters edge in the bay at the wharf.
It was 5 or 6 km to Porvenir from the ferry. In town we bought bread, took a few photos. The shop owner gave us water.
We also bought some red wine to celebrate our arrival here.
After all, we were on this island that everybody can name but few have visited, Tierra Del Fuego. It was quite a milestone in my journey, the home strait so to speak has been reached.
Leaving town the road became gravel.
We were lucky, the wind was with us. It was bitterly cold coming off the ocean, all part of Magellans passage.
Some couple of km up the road a red car slowed down and the driver got out, I had left my little purse at the tienda, the owner had it for me, I had no idea it was left there. It was so good of him to return it. Such is the honesty in small towns.
Most cyclists spoken to have stoeries of losing things or leaving them behind, at least I’m not Robinson Crusoe on this one.
It was a great ride, taking in the ocean views, the distant homesteads of the estancias and the landscape that was void of trees.
The first section of the ride took us rolling hill country as we south and then came to the coast and a number of ramshackle fishing huts on the beach, all largely constructed from corrugated iron, all having chimneys and huddled together in a strip along the back of the small gravel beach.
Being an inland waterway the waves though present were not beaching with any force, they were mainly windblown.
From here we climbed into what appeared rich pasture land with merinos grazing everywhere.
At 1500 hours we stopped for lunch, though the sun was out it had absolutely no warmth. Once stopped we froze, as the tailwind caught up with us and chilled our bodies so rapidly. We lunched in a deep little stream gully by the road.
Near the waters edge Cal said the place stinks.
Looking about, here was a dead sheep in the stream, it was the colour of the rocks and bloated, though it was an old carcass.
The extreme climate here had not allowed the flesh to rot.
Needless to say we moved upwind a bit.
We stopped at another stream to get water in the bladder to camp.
These streams do not have very clear water running, we found the cleanest we could find, it was still a light brown.
We were really surprised to see a Beaver in the stream below the road, he had built a dam from mud due to the fact he had chewed down most of the small bushes or the rest were dead from inundation.
Beavers were bought here many years ago for their fur.
It was a basic existence compared to those seen in Minnesota were they could fell trees all day and still get up the next morning and do the same.
From here, we just cruised along putting on big kilometres in the now tail wind and on a remarkably good gravel surface on the wide road. It was great riding alongside the ocean at times.
The road was running due east, riding was easy.
We were soon drinking water fairly fast and were running out. A few vehicles were using the road though they were well spaced.
By now we were almost out of drinking water, it was2030.
Coming towards us, was a large two axled truck, it was a Luxemberg couple in a Scania rigged for off road camping, the tyres were nearly as tall as me. It had a range of 3000km on the huge diesel tanks attached. It was an impressive piece of gear.
I flagged them down and asked them for water, they were great they topped up all our bottles and refilled the bladder.
We chatted for awhile, they have just bought property in Paraguay, they had a dog and a cat onboard!
We parted mainly due to the wind making us all so cold, it just slowly saps any warm from your body if your are exposed to it and not fully rugged up or exerting yourself.
We were so pleased to have this water and could now start looking for a camp in this now dead flat environment, endless to the north and east and bounded by the sea to our south.
The winds, though blowing were not strong, we knew if necessary we could camp in the open. Though it would be a case of pitching the tent and retreating immediately to within.
At 1900 we came across a mostly dry, grassed watercourse. The main gate was closed, up the road across the culverts a small gate allowed us access to this depression in the flat landscape, on closer inspection it offered shelter from the frigid air.
It was infact a great campsite, lush green grass in the dry stream bed.
We found a spot not visible from the road and set things up.
We really were fortunate that the winds were not strong.
In the deepest depression we cooked up a great pasta, forgetting even to drink the wine, thinking only of eating and getting into the tent.
Inside the tent was refuge from the elements. The little plastic bottle was full of hot water, all was good. The wind was not a factor at our site.
During the day guanacos were seen, generally grazing near sheep. These beautiful animals jump over the fences with remarkable ease when approached.
They have the best pastures of Tierra Del Fuega at their leisure with this ability. They are so graceful and agile as the trot off when we get near.
Though they always will stop to have a look back at us.
It was a bonus to be where we were, we had nearly missed the ferry. Cal had no chance of catching a taxi with a bike near him. My quick departure from the scene with both bikes ensured he got that important ride.
I got a big yell as they came past. Meanwhile, I was doing my best to ride my laden bike and balance Cals alongside. Leaving the waterfront there were power poles in the footpath, I could not pass and had to ride on the road with other traffic.
The things you do, in Patagonia!!
22/1/2013 dry creek bed to Rio Grande
D145, T6.5, 12, Av20.84, Max 53, Tot 25,135, 15,248
A mixed day of rain, sun and light winds
Cal is cooking and it is 2315, we are both totally worn out, it has been a huge day. We are in Rio Grande in the kitchen of the hostal Argentino, just glad to be here.
The red wine we didn’t have last night is going down like water off a very high cliff. “Mist” by the time it gets to the bottom of our stomachs. Though instantly impacting on our senses, no need to wonder why.
After 12 hours on gravel and asphalt, in sometimes trying conditions we are both pleasantly relaxed.
Getting up around 0830, in no haste, the campsite given the terrain was better than we could have ever imagined, lush grass, sheltered and not visible from the road.
After a leisurely breakfast, pack up and a bit of washing we entered the rod about 1030.
We soon got to the intersection to Onaisín here we deposited our waste in a bin.
The wind again was our companion and a good one at that, aiding us not from directly behind but none the less making the passage easy.
We encountered two other riders from Europe, heading north, we shared tips, I was standing on the side of the road, straddling the bike, a foot went back, the ground level was different. The weight of the bike followed me and I ended up, flat on the ground, bike on top of me in the middle of a conversation. It was one of those memorable moments.
The road was in good shape. There were sections that were similar to Ruta 40 up north, you could see for miles on the straight sections.
Nearing san Sebastián in Chile we saw two cyclists on the roadside hitching, it was the English couple we met up north near Mañuales, it was great to see them. Wze had much to talk about and found out we had both shatred the company of a few other riders sharing our time frame.
We soon got the Aduanas at Chile. Formalities were easy,
We also stopped at the ensitu tienda for an empanada and mint chocolate bars.
From here the road deteriorated, still wide. It was riddled with pot holes.
Soon we got to the Argentinean authorities, here a bus had pulled up and the processing was slow. We also filled the bladder and our bottles with water.
Whilst inside the building, it poured outside, how timely.
This marked the end of the gravel, it was bliss to get onto the asphalt again.
After about 20km, we stopped at a small shed housing electrical gear as part of a substation. The door was found to be open.
It was great to be inside and enjoying mate and coffee. A vehicle pulled up and an employee of the power company told us of the danger within because of the high voltage.
He was a typically tall Argentino, dressed in Blundstone like boots with a heavy woollen navy blue jumper on falling over blue jeans .We spoke at length about power in our respective countries and other topic of interest. He said LPG is so cheap here in AR people just waste it. The price is government controlled. The big companies have eased up looking for further deposits due to the low returns nad instead look for oil.
In the hostal at El Calafate, the owners had a huge gas ring burning inside an old wooden stove, it was burning twenty four hours.
To warm the whole preise.
I told the guy I was thinking these peolle must have some money to be able to afford this kind of totally inefficient heating. Now i know why.
He also said the big estancias on this part of Tierra Del Fuego are huge, the main sheep breed is Corriedale.
As we left the AR aduanas we could see the Atlantic ocean, in one day we had been witness to both huge bodies of water on this planet.
Once on the asphalt life became very easy. We put on some easy kilometres.
It was feasible to get to Rio grande, that we did at 2130 hours, first stop was an ice cream shop. They were other worldly after the long day. I had two Cal had one huge one.
Asking about we spent another hour looking for a hostal, some were booked, some just too costly.
The Hostal Argentine was like an oasis, we booked in, ate and suddenly realised how trashed we were. Cal cooked a pasta number.
D50, T2.5, Av21.17, Max44, Tot 24,876, 14,989
Overcast light winds
It rained early morning, so we just stayed in the tent a little longer. It soon abated and we arose to a half pleasant day.
We were thankful for the Calafate bushes offering shelter for the night.
Again, we had an easy ride into Punta Arenas, the wind was a great aid. The approach into town was endless. Finally getting there, we found the Barefoot Backpackers that others had recommended.
We got the last double room, it was very basic but sufficed. Importantly, it had a good kitchen. Here we cooked chicken on the first night and a roast of beef the second night. Both meals were first class.
Much time was spent in the room relaxing. Chris and Judith, the Swiss couple stayed for 1 night.
We also visited the Duty Free shopping area that Punta Arenas is famous for, Cal needed new headphones. My translator finally succumbed to the constant vibration on the gravel roads. It has been such a help with my Spanish. It was a Franklin BES 2150, great little piece of gear, much better than a dictionary. Importantly it had all the verb conjugations. One was not located at the centre.
Punta Arenas is the last major city on the South American mainland, a point of interest is that south of here is the most southerly point of the continent.
21/1/2014 Punta Arenas to near the Onaisin intersection
D114, TT8, Av17.48, Max 52, D24,990, 15,103
Fine 12°, moderate winds SW
Finding out the ferry to Porvenir we had to get up and get organised early. This we did and cooked coffee and porridge in the room as the kitchen was locked.
During the proceedings, we found cal had a rear flat tyre.
We got it repaired with much hassle with the chain getting twisted.
We loaded the bikes and the tyre was without air again.
We had no choice but to head to the ferry, Cal would have to scoot the bike.
The owner of the hostal said it was close.
Once we got to the waterfront. All this here is very new with a cycle track incorporated.
Asking people we found out it was 8km along here to the ferry.
We were in the shit, Cal could not walk a loaded bike that far.
We unloaded his bike and I had to ride with it alongside me the rest of the way.
Cal caught a taxi with all his gear.
We just made the 0900 ferry. The next one was not till 1600 in the afternoon.
The vessel was totally full of vehicles and half a dozen motos. No other cyclists, oddly enough.
We again repaired the tyre on the cargo deck.
The trip was about 2.5 hours across. Time was spent with a Brazillian couple on a BMW moto. They were on a months leave. They were doing 500km a day.
So were doing Ushuaia in one day.
From one extreme to the other, we all laughed at the difference in our arrival times in Ushuaia. Theirs, a day ours 4.
Cals tyre was again flat, it had to be a valve problem as no bubbles were sighted leaving the submerged tube on the waters edge in the bay at the wharf.
It was 5 or 6 km to Porvenir from the ferry. In town we bought bread, took a few photos. The shop owner gave us water.
We also bought some red wine to celebrate our arrival here.
After all, we were on this island that everybody can name but few have visited, Tierra Del Fuego. It was quite a milestone in my journey, the home strait so to speak has been reached.
Leaving town the road became gravel.
We were lucky, the wind was with us. It was bitterly cold coming off the ocean, all part of Magellans passage.
Some couple of km up the road a red car slowed down and the driver got out, I had left my little purse at the tienda, the owner had it for me, I had no idea it was left there. It was so good of him to return it. Such is the honesty in small towns.
Most cyclists spoken to have stoeries of losing things or leaving them behind, at least I’m not Robinson Crusoe on this one.
It was a great ride, taking in the ocean views, the distant homesteads of the estancias and the landscape that was void of trees.
The first section of the ride took us rolling hill country as we south and then came to the coast and a number of ramshackle fishing huts on the beach, all largely constructed from corrugated iron, all having chimneys and huddled together in a strip along the back of the small gravel beach.
Being an inland waterway the waves though present were not beaching with any force, they were mainly windblown.
From here we climbed into what appeared rich pasture land with merinos grazing everywhere.
At 1500 hours we stopped for lunch, though the sun was out it had absolutely no warmth. Once stopped we froze, as the tailwind caught up with us and chilled our bodies so rapidly. We lunched in a deep little stream gully by the road.
Near the waters edge Cal said the place stinks.
Looking about, here was a dead sheep in the stream, it was the colour of the rocks and bloated, though it was an old carcass.
The extreme climate here had not allowed the flesh to rot.
Needless to say we moved upwind a bit.
We stopped at another stream to get water in the bladder to camp.
These streams do not have very clear water running, we found the cleanest we could find, it was still a light brown.
We were really surprised to see a Beaver in the stream below the road, he had built a dam from mud due to the fact he had chewed down most of the small bushes or the rest were dead from inundation.
Beavers were bought here many years ago for their fur.
It was a basic existence compared to those seen in Minnesota were they could fell trees all day and still get up the next morning and do the same.
From here, we just cruised along putting on big kilometres in the now tail wind and on a remarkably good gravel surface on the wide road. It was great riding alongside the ocean at times.
The road was running due east, riding was easy.
We were soon drinking water fairly fast and were running out. A few vehicles were using the road though they were well spaced.
By now we were almost out of drinking water, it was2030.
Coming towards us, was a large two axled truck, it was a Luxemberg couple in a Scania rigged for off road camping, the tyres were nearly as tall as me. It had a range of 3000km on the huge diesel tanks attached. It was an impressive piece of gear.
I flagged them down and asked them for water, they were great they topped up all our bottles and refilled the bladder.
We chatted for awhile, they have just bought property in Paraguay, they had a dog and a cat onboard!
We parted mainly due to the wind making us all so cold, it just slowly saps any warm from your body if your are exposed to it and not fully rugged up or exerting yourself.
We were so pleased to have this water and could now start looking for a camp in this now dead flat environment, endless to the north and east and bounded by the sea to our south.
The winds, though blowing were not strong, we knew if necessary we could camp in the open. Though it would be a case of pitching the tent and retreating immediately to within.
At 1900 we came across a mostly dry, grassed watercourse. The main gate was closed, up the road across the culverts a small gate allowed us access to this depression in the flat landscape, on closer inspection it offered shelter from the frigid air.
It was infact a great campsite, lush green grass in the dry stream bed.
We found a spot not visible from the road and set things up.
We really were fortunate that the winds were not strong.
In the deepest depression we cooked up a great pasta, forgetting even to drink the wine, thinking only of eating and getting into the tent.
Inside the tent was refuge from the elements. The little plastic bottle was full of hot water, all was good. The wind was not a factor at our site.
During the day guanacos were seen, generally grazing near sheep. These beautiful animals jump over the fences with remarkable ease when approached.
They have the best pastures of Tierra Del Fuega at their leisure with this ability. They are so graceful and agile as the trot off when we get near.
Though they always will stop to have a look back at us.
It was a bonus to be where we were, we had nearly missed the ferry. Cal had no chance of catching a taxi with a bike near him. My quick departure from the scene with both bikes ensured he got that important ride.
I got a big yell as they came past. Meanwhile, I was doing my best to ride my laden bike and balance Cals alongside. Leaving the waterfront there were power poles in the footpath, I could not pass and had to ride on the road with other traffic.
The things you do, in Patagonia!!
22/1/2013 dry creek bed to Rio Grande
D145, T6.5, 12, Av20.84, Max 53, Tot 25,135, 15,248
A mixed day of rain, sun and light winds
Cal is cooking and it is 2315, we are both totally worn out, it has been a huge day. We are in Rio Grande in the kitchen of the hostal Argentino, just glad to be here.
The red wine we didn’t have last night is going down like water off a very high cliff. “Mist” by the time it gets to the bottom of our stomachs. Though instantly impacting on our senses, no need to wonder why.
After 12 hours on gravel and asphalt, in sometimes trying conditions we are both pleasantly relaxed.
Getting up around 0830, in no haste, the campsite given the terrain was better than we could have ever imagined, lush grass, sheltered and not visible from the road.
After a leisurely breakfast, pack up and a bit of washing we entered the rod about 1030.
We soon got to the intersection to Onaisín here we deposited our waste in a bin.
The wind again was our companion and a good one at that, aiding us not from directly behind but none the less making the passage easy.
We encountered two other riders from Europe, heading north, we shared tips, I was standing on the side of the road, straddling the bike, a foot went back, the ground level was different. The weight of the bike followed me and I ended up, flat on the ground, bike on top of me in the middle of a conversation. It was one of those memorable moments.
The road was in good shape. There were sections that were similar to Ruta 40 up north, you could see for miles on the straight sections.
Nearing san Sebastián in Chile we saw two cyclists on the roadside hitching, it was the English couple we met up north near Mañuales, it was great to see them. Wze had much to talk about and found out we had both shatred the company of a few other riders sharing our time frame.
We soon got the Aduanas at Chile. Formalities were easy,
We also stopped at the ensitu tienda for an empanada and mint chocolate bars.
From here the road deteriorated, still wide. It was riddled with pot holes.
Soon we got to the Argentinean authorities, here a bus had pulled up and the processing was slow. We also filled the bladder and our bottles with water.
Whilst inside the building, it poured outside, how timely.
This marked the end of the gravel, it was bliss to get onto the asphalt again.
After about 20km, we stopped at a small shed housing electrical gear as part of a substation. The door was found to be open.
It was great to be inside and enjoying mate and coffee. A vehicle pulled up and an employee of the power company told us of the danger within because of the high voltage.
He was a typically tall Argentino, dressed in Blundstone like boots with a heavy woollen navy blue jumper on falling over blue jeans .We spoke at length about power in our respective countries and other topic of interest. He said LPG is so cheap here in AR people just waste it. The price is government controlled. The big companies have eased up looking for further deposits due to the low returns nad instead look for oil.
In the hostal at El Calafate, the owners had a huge gas ring burning inside an old wooden stove, it was burning twenty four hours.
To warm the whole preise.
I told the guy I was thinking these peolle must have some money to be able to afford this kind of totally inefficient heating. Now i know why.
He also said the big estancias on this part of Tierra Del Fuego are huge, the main sheep breed is Corriedale.
As we left the AR aduanas we could see the Atlantic ocean, in one day we had been witness to both huge bodies of water on this planet.
Once on the asphalt life became very easy. We put on some easy kilometres.
It was feasible to get to Rio grande, that we did at 2130 hours, first stop was an ice cream shop. They were other worldly after the long day. I had two Cal had one huge one.
Asking about we spent another hour looking for a hostal, some were booked, some just too costly.
The Hostal Argentine was like an oasis, we booked in, ate and suddenly realised how trashed we were. Cal cooked a pasta number.
Freedom of another kind,
Tierra Del Fuego is theirs,
Such a lovely animal, the Guanaco.
 Just made it!
 Waterfront, Porvenir, Tierra Del Fuego!!!
 The conveyer, Puntas Arenas, Porvenir
 For along time we were never far from the Bahía Inutíl
 Beaver habitat. A small stream crossing the road was dammed.
 Guanaco, typical roadside scene.
 Hasta pronto Chile
 The Atlantic, just past Aduanas AR.
 Nearing the finale of a dream that became reality.
So close, yet in so many respects still so far away.
|
 On the road from the ferry t o Porvenir, in the distance
 Leaving town, Porvenir ,that is.
 Photos, in this case don't convey temperatures, it was very fresh, though it took a back seat to proceedings whilst on the move.
 Winching gear for skiff retrieval.
 Camping TDF style, 2200hrs
 Individuals from two species presently here, one permanent, one not so.
 A welcome "sign" just before Aduanas AR
 A Guanaco of another kind TDF, AR.
|
Estancia Sara, AR. These estancias generally have lovely feminine names.
The homestead was up the road within established trees.
