browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
19-20/1/2014 Gdor. Phillipe to Punta Arenas

D50, T2.5, Av21.17, Max44, Tot 24,876, 14,989

Overcast light winds

It rained early morning, so we just stayed in the tent a little longer. It soon abated and we arose to a half pleasant day.

We were thankful for the Calafate bushes offering shelter for the night.

Again, we had an easy ride into Punta Arenas, the wind was a great aid. The approach into town was endless. Finally getting there, we found the Barefoot Backpackers that others had recommended.

 We got the last double room, it was very basic but sufficed. Importantly, it had a good kitchen. Here we cooked chicken on the first night and a roast of beef the second night. Both meals were first class.

Much time was spent in the room relaxing. Chris and Judith, the Swiss couple stayed for 1 night.

We also visited the Duty Free shopping area that Punta Arenas is famous for, Cal needed new headphones. My translator finally succumbed to the constant vibration on the gravel roads. It has been such a help with my Spanish. It was a Franklin BES 2150, great little piece of gear, much better than a dictionary. Importantly it had all the verb conjugations. One was not located at the centre.

Punta Arenas is the last major city on the South American mainland, a point of interest is that south of here is the most southerly point of the continent.

21/1/2014 Punta Arenas to near the Onaisin intersection

 D114, TT8, Av17.48, Max 52, D24,990, 15,103

Fine 12°, moderate winds SW

Finding out the ferry to Porvenir we had to get up and get organised early. This we did and cooked coffee and porridge in the room as the kitchen was locked.

During the proceedings, we found cal had a rear flat tyre.

We got it repaired with much hassle with the chain getting twisted.

We loaded the bikes and the tyre was without air again.

We had no choice but to head to the ferry, Cal would have to scoot the bike.

The owner of the hostal said it was close.

Once we got to the waterfront. All this  here is very new with a cycle track incorporated.

Asking people we found out it was 8km along here to the ferry.

We were in the shit, Cal could not walk a loaded bike that far.

We unloaded his bike and I had to ride with it alongside me the rest of the way.

Cal caught a taxi with all his gear.

We just made the 0900 ferry. The next one was not till 1600 in the afternoon.

The vessel was totally full of vehicles and  half a dozen motos. No other cyclists, oddly enough.

We again repaired the tyre on the cargo deck.

The trip was about 2.5 hours across. Time was spent with a Brazillian couple on a BMW moto. They were on a months leave. They were doing 500km a day.

So were doing Ushuaia in one day.

From one extreme to the other, we all laughed at the difference in our arrival times in Ushuaia. Theirs, a day ours 4.

Cals tyre was again flat, it had to be a valve problem as no bubbles were sighted leaving the submerged tube on the waters edge  in the bay at the wharf.

It was 5 or 6 km to Porvenir from the ferry. In town we bought bread, took a few photos. The shop owner gave us water.

We also bought some red wine to celebrate our arrival here.

After all, we were on this island that everybody can name but few have visited, Tierra Del Fuego. It was quite a milestone in my journey, the home strait so to speak has been reached.

Leaving town the road became gravel.

We were lucky, the wind was with us. It was bitterly cold coming off the ocean, all part of Magellans passage.

Some couple of km up the road a red car slowed down and the driver got out, I had left my little purse at the tienda, the owner had it for me, I had no idea it was left there. It was so good of him to return it. Such is the honesty in small towns.

Most cyclists spoken to have stoeries of losing things or leaving them behind, at least I’m not Robinson Crusoe on this one.

It was a great ride, taking in the ocean views, the distant homesteads of the estancias and the landscape that was void of trees.

The first section of the ride took us rolling hill country as we south and then came to the coast and a number of ramshackle fishing huts on the beach, all largely constructed from corrugated iron, all having chimneys and huddled together in a strip along the back of the small gravel beach.

Being an inland waterway the waves though present were not beaching with any force, they were mainly windblown.

From here we climbed into what appeared rich pasture land with merinos  grazing everywhere.

At 1500 hours we stopped for lunch, though the sun was out it had absolutely no warmth. Once stopped we froze, as the tailwind caught up with us and chilled our bodies so rapidly. We lunched in a deep little stream gully by the road.

Near the waters edge Cal said the place stinks.

Looking about, here was a dead sheep in the stream, it was the colour of the rocks and bloated, though it was an old carcass.

The extreme climate here had not allowed the flesh to rot.

Needless to say we moved upwind a bit.

We stopped at another stream to get water in the bladder to camp.

These streams do not have very clear water running, we found the cleanest we could find, it was still a light brown.

We were really surprised to see a Beaver in the stream below the road, he had built a dam from mud due to the fact he had chewed down most of the small bushes or the rest were dead from inundation.

Beavers were bought here many years ago for their fur.

It was a basic existence compared to those seen in Minnesota were they could fell trees all day and still get up the next morning and do the same.

From  here, we just cruised along putting on big kilometres in the now tail wind and on a remarkably good gravel surface on the wide road. It was great riding alongside the ocean at times.

The road was running due east, riding was easy.

We were soon drinking water fairly fast and were running out. A few vehicles were using the road though they were well spaced.

By now we were almost out of drinking water, it was2030.

Coming towards us, was a large two axled truck,  it was a Luxemberg couple in a Scania rigged for off road camping, the tyres were nearly as tall as me. It had a range of 3000km on the huge diesel tanks attached. It was an impressive piece of gear.

I flagged them down and asked them for water, they were great they topped up all our bottles and refilled the bladder.

We chatted for awhile, they have just bought property in Paraguay, they had a dog and a cat onboard!

We parted mainly due to the wind making us all so cold, it just slowly saps any warm from your body if your are exposed to it and not fully rugged up or exerting yourself.

We were so pleased to have this water and could now start looking for a camp in this now dead flat environment, endless to the north and east and bounded by the sea to our south.

The winds, though blowing were not strong, we knew if necessary we could camp in the open. Though it would be a case of pitching the tent and retreating immediately to within.

At 1900 we came across a mostly dry, grassed watercourse. The main gate was closed, up the road across the culverts a small gate allowed us access to this depression in the flat landscape, on closer inspection it offered shelter from the frigid air.

It was infact a great campsite, lush green grass in the dry stream bed.

We found a spot not visible from the road and set things up.

We really were fortunate that the winds were not strong.

In the deepest depression we cooked up a great pasta, forgetting even to drink the wine, thinking only of eating and getting into the tent.

Inside the tent was refuge from the elements. The little plastic bottle was full of hot water, all was good. The wind was not a factor at our site.

During the day guanacos were seen, generally grazing near sheep. These beautiful animals jump over the fences with remarkable ease when approached.

They have the best pastures of Tierra Del Fuega at their leisure with this ability. They are so graceful and agile as the trot off when we get near.

Though they always will stop to have  a look back at us.

It was a bonus to be where we were, we had nearly missed the ferry. Cal had no chance of catching a taxi with a bike near him. My quick departure from the scene with both bikes ensured he got that important ride.

I got a big yell as they came past. Meanwhile, I was doing my best to ride my laden bike and balance Cals alongside. Leaving the waterfront there were power poles in the footpath, I could not pass and had to ride on the road with other traffic.

The things you do, in Patagonia!!  

22/1/2013 dry creek bed to Rio Grande

D145, T6.5, 12, Av20.84, Max 53, Tot 25,135, 15,248

A mixed day of rain, sun and light winds

Cal is cooking and it is 2315, we are both totally worn out, it has been a huge day. We are in Rio Grande in the kitchen of the hostal Argentino, just glad to be here.

The red wine we didn’t have last night is going down like water off a very high cliff. “Mist” by the time it gets to the bottom of our stomachs. Though instantly impacting on our senses, no need to wonder why.

After 12 hours on gravel and asphalt, in sometimes trying conditions we are both pleasantly relaxed.

Getting up around 0830, in no haste, the campsite given the terrain was better than we could have ever imagined,  lush grass, sheltered and not visible from the road.

After a leisurely breakfast, pack up and a bit of washing we entered the rod about 1030.

We soon got to the intersection to Onaisín here we deposited our waste in a bin.

The wind again was our companion and a good one at that, aiding us not from directly behind but none the less making the passage easy.

We encountered two other riders from Europe, heading north, we shared tips, I was standing on the side of the road, straddling the bike, a foot went back, the ground level was different. The weight of the bike followed me and I  ended up, flat  on the ground, bike on top of me in the middle of a conversation. It was one of those memorable moments.

 The road was in good shape. There were sections that were similar to Ruta 40 up north, you could see for miles on the straight sections.

Nearing san Sebastián in Chile we saw two cyclists on the roadside hitching, it was the English couple we met up north near Mañuales, it was great to see them. Wze had much to talk about and found out we had both shatred the company of a few other riders sharing our time frame.

We soon got the Aduanas at Chile. Formalities were easy,

We also stopped at the ensitu tienda for an empanada and mint chocolate bars.

From here the road deteriorated, still wide. It was riddled with pot holes.

Soon we got to the Argentinean authorities, here a bus had pulled up and the processing was slow. We also filled the bladder and our bottles with water.

Whilst inside the building, it poured outside, how timely.

This marked the end of the gravel, it was bliss to get onto the asphalt again.

After about 20km, we stopped at a small shed housing electrical gear as part of a substation. The door was found to be open.

It was great to be inside and enjoying mate and coffee. A vehicle pulled up and an employee of the power company told us of the danger within because of the high voltage.

He was a typically tall Argentino, dressed in Blundstone like boots with a heavy woollen navy blue jumper on falling over blue jeans .We spoke at length about power in our respective countries and other topic of interest. He said LPG is so cheap here in AR people just waste it. The price is government controlled. The big companies have eased up looking for further deposits due to the low returns nad instead look for oil.

In the hostal at El Calafate, the owners had a huge gas ring burning inside an old wooden stove, it was burning twenty four hours.

To warm the whole preise.

I told the guy I was thinking these peolle must have some money to be able to afford this kind of totally inefficient heating. Now i know why.

He also said the big estancias on this part of Tierra Del Fuego are huge, the main sheep breed is Corriedale.

As we left the AR aduanas we could see the Atlantic ocean, in one day we had been witness to both huge bodies of water on this planet.

Once on the asphalt life became very easy. We put on some easy kilometres.

It was feasible to get to Rio grande, that we did at 2130 hours, first stop was an ice cream shop. They were other worldly after the long day. I had two Cal had one huge one.

Asking about we spent another hour looking for a hostal, some were booked, some just too costly.

The Hostal Argentine was like an oasis, we booked in, ate and suddenly realised how trashed we were. Cal cooked a pasta number.

PictureFreedom of another kind, Tierra Del Fuego is theirs, Such a lovely animal, the Guanaco.

PictureJust made it!

PictureWaterfront, Porvenir, Tierra Del Fuego!!!

PictureThe conveyer, Puntas Arenas, Porvenir

PictureFor along time we were never far from the Bahía Inutíl

PictureBeaver habitat. A small stream crossing the road was dammed.

PictureGuanaco, typical roadside scene.

PictureHasta pronto Chile

PictureThe Atlantic, just past Aduanas AR.

PictureNearing the finale of a dream that became reality. So close, yet in so many respects still so far away.

PictureOn the road from the ferry t o Porvenir, in the distance

PictureLeaving town, Porvenir ,that is.

PicturePhotos, in this case don't convey temperatures, it was very fresh, though it took a back seat to proceedings whilst on the move.

PictureWinching gear for skiff retrieval.

PictureCamping TDF style, 2200hrs

PictureIndividuals from two species presently here, one permanent, one not so.

PictureA welcome "sign" just before Aduanas AR

PictureA Guanaco of another kind TDF, AR.

Picture

PictureEstancia Sara, AR. These estancias generally have lovely feminine names. The homestead was up the road within established trees.

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