1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca
D79, T7/8.5, Av11, Max56, Tot16182, 6118
Another perfect spring like day
Getting up at 0500, in total darkness, the object of the exercise was to beat those sandflies up.
It was a mild morning as expected, the tent was dry on packing it up.
A cup of coffee was had and I was pushing the bike up the steep incline that the track traversed up to the road.
Luckily the gates were open. A "post it" note was stuck to the gate to thank the guys “ Muchas gracias para todo”.
A short downhill run was enjoyed before the ascent began, as the French family told me it was about 38km. On the way caldo de gallina was enjoyed at a roadside restaurant. Silly me not asking the price before ordering. When the bill did come it was 10s.
I don’t normally get annoyed but this price fired me up. The woman copped an earful about it being the most expensive caldo in Peru and that it was a gringo price. Being in here this long, my knowledge of prices is pretty spot on.
Up the road, when buying water at another tienda the women there agreed with me 4,8 soles is max for Caldo de Gallina. They were great ladies offering me free bread which I declined.
It was a steady climb in just the best weather, no shirt was upon my back for half the day.
The weather is really settling down into the dry season now.
The stars out at camp last night were reminiscent of near Uluru in Australia. The milky way was like sugar being poured across the wide sky.
A Swiss guy on a BMW tourer 1200 stopped and talked for a while. He started in Cancun in Mexico some 4 months ago.
It was all brand new gear, he looked like a promo for BMW, with a very flash riding suit.
Nearing the top, I was nearing the bottom, of my reserves that is. Searching my ipod for some inspirational music, finding some Joe Cocker got me up there.
It was so nice to be at the top. This was about 1530, a clothing change again was made, whilst chatting to a bunch of ladies selling biscuits etc at a check point.
They are great these woman, their sense of humour doesn’t take much to surface, especially when my comments are fishing. Soon they were trying to line me up with their friend. I rode off with all of us laughing. I had a packet of Magaritas and some sugured popped corn.
These Magaritas are just the best biscuits for dipping in coffee, sweet as hell but who cares, it gets burnt off the next day.
It was fairly fresh now, all day, only the soup had been eaten. Stopping at Conchacalla, a plate of deliciously fried chicken and rice was devoured followed by chicha.
From here it was an easy 40km in top gear doing about 30km into Izcuchaca.
It was great to be just pedalling along with a helpful tailwind.
Asking about town the Hostal Central was booked. 10s/ night.
Ground level, basic, but comfortable.
The bed is a bit like a hammock, great for sleeping on your back.
Cuzco is now only 25km, I am in no hurry to get there.
These smallish towns that don’t have tourists littering the streets are such a pleasure.
Their markets, not huge, have everything you need and the people are so friendly, whilst the restaurants are very reasonably priced. Really, so far in Peru, putting Lima aside, Huaraz and Cajamarca have really been the only places visited where tourists were obvious. Even in Trujillo at La casa, few gringos other than cyclists were encountered.
Though never staying at lodgings listed in LP, not on purpose, more just for reasons practicality, I don’t bump into tourists. Most people staying in my lodgings are just everyday Peruanos.
Many people can afford eight soles a night! At this price it is a pleasure indulging in fruit and whatever avails itself whilst on the road.
D79, T7/8.5, Av11, Max56, Tot16182, 6118
Another perfect spring like day
Getting up at 0500, in total darkness, the object of the exercise was to beat those sandflies up.
It was a mild morning as expected, the tent was dry on packing it up.
A cup of coffee was had and I was pushing the bike up the steep incline that the track traversed up to the road.
Luckily the gates were open. A "post it" note was stuck to the gate to thank the guys “ Muchas gracias para todo”.
A short downhill run was enjoyed before the ascent began, as the French family told me it was about 38km. On the way caldo de gallina was enjoyed at a roadside restaurant. Silly me not asking the price before ordering. When the bill did come it was 10s.
I don’t normally get annoyed but this price fired me up. The woman copped an earful about it being the most expensive caldo in Peru and that it was a gringo price. Being in here this long, my knowledge of prices is pretty spot on.
Up the road, when buying water at another tienda the women there agreed with me 4,8 soles is max for Caldo de Gallina. They were great ladies offering me free bread which I declined.
It was a steady climb in just the best weather, no shirt was upon my back for half the day.
The weather is really settling down into the dry season now.
The stars out at camp last night were reminiscent of near Uluru in Australia. The milky way was like sugar being poured across the wide sky.
A Swiss guy on a BMW tourer 1200 stopped and talked for a while. He started in Cancun in Mexico some 4 months ago.
It was all brand new gear, he looked like a promo for BMW, with a very flash riding suit.
Nearing the top, I was nearing the bottom, of my reserves that is. Searching my ipod for some inspirational music, finding some Joe Cocker got me up there.
It was so nice to be at the top. This was about 1530, a clothing change again was made, whilst chatting to a bunch of ladies selling biscuits etc at a check point.
They are great these woman, their sense of humour doesn’t take much to surface, especially when my comments are fishing. Soon they were trying to line me up with their friend. I rode off with all of us laughing. I had a packet of Magaritas and some sugured popped corn.
These Magaritas are just the best biscuits for dipping in coffee, sweet as hell but who cares, it gets burnt off the next day.
It was fairly fresh now, all day, only the soup had been eaten. Stopping at Conchacalla, a plate of deliciously fried chicken and rice was devoured followed by chicha.
From here it was an easy 40km in top gear doing about 30km into Izcuchaca.
It was great to be just pedalling along with a helpful tailwind.
Asking about town the Hostal Central was booked. 10s/ night.
Ground level, basic, but comfortable.
The bed is a bit like a hammock, great for sleeping on your back.
Cuzco is now only 25km, I am in no hurry to get there.
These smallish towns that don’t have tourists littering the streets are such a pleasure.
Their markets, not huge, have everything you need and the people are so friendly, whilst the restaurants are very reasonably priced. Really, so far in Peru, putting Lima aside, Huaraz and Cajamarca have really been the only places visited where tourists were obvious. Even in Trujillo at La casa, few gringos other than cyclists were encountered.
Though never staying at lodgings listed in LP, not on purpose, more just for reasons practicality, I don’t bump into tourists. Most people staying in my lodgings are just everyday Peruanos.
Many people can afford eight soles a night! At this price it is a pleasure indulging in fruit and whatever avails itself whilst on the road.
Caldo de gallina, a staple here, the chicken meat is from old layers, that is a potato in the middle.
Early morning, Izcuchaca.
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Hostal Central, Izcuchaca
Andreus fro Switzerland, his gear was just the cats whiskers.
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