browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
Picture
Sitting back waiting for the dust to clear, I think not, one could get old!!!

With no disrespect to Brazil or its people. This song by Chris Rea pretty well sums up what I have seen to date on The Trans Amazonica.

To the natural environment, the animals, other life and indigenous peoples who lived in harmony here in the Amazon basin. This is what I feel this  road must represent for them.

Not so, to the new comers.

As humans. Of late, we have instinctively destroyed and changed almost all new environments and landscapes we have occupied on this planet.

Sadly, it is what we do, we are good at it, and as our numbers increase, we will probably do it with more urgency and even less consideration to the ensuing consequences. 

I feel the time is nearing when the natural undisturbed parts of our planet will become more of an asset than any city will ever be.

Unlike lands in our developed countries, this land is still weeping from the pain it has and is still  enduring
.
I can feel it, as I ride along, fresh scars in the landscape, stagnant water courses, blocked by the road, lonely trees and Babacu palms in paddocks, Macaque Monkeys calling from isolated pockets of jungle and the smell of smoke. Clouds of dust like blood from a wound.

Having expressed these sentiments, what the Brasileiros have done here in the Amazon Basin,  is quite amazing, given the conditions and isolation. Their intentions are for the good of their people.
The inspiration to ride and continue to ride along it comes from the human endeavour and endurance  witnessed along the way.

( Chris Rea wrote the song in 1989 about traffic jams on the London Orbital Motorway, M25)


 As I was composing the opening lines to this entry, just about to upload them to the internet.

A tropical storm could be heard outside, heavy rain and thunder. Then all of a sudden my room shook as a deafening clap of thunder roared and pieces of tiles fell into my bathroom. Then the water started coming in. By now, the room was very dark without lights.

Needless to say, it took out the power.

 Water was pouring in through the timbered ceiling. A lightening strike had blown a hole in the roof above my room.

Within 10 minutes, the floor was 10mm deep in water. Hurriedly I packed things back in the panniers to protect them.

It was  nature was saying, “It’s ok, I’m still here”.


 

3/8/2014 Pacajá to catholic church

30km north of Anapu

D109, T10, Av15.91, max63 31455/5920

Moist haze in ranges, overcast 30+

With the wall fan howling all night in my “cell” just to stop the mossies from landing on me, a full nights sleep was difficult. They must approach from the ground and use the bed for shelter from the turbulent air. The first targets they usually find are my fingers. Awakening and having terribly itchy spots on the sides them indicates the possibility of this flight path. Their instinctual need for blood seems to always get them to their host.

Given all this, I was up at 0500, had a cold shower. Even though it is probably 24 degrees in the morning, it is always a shock getting a drenching from cold water. On the count of four it is straight under, the initial chill is a rush, though moments later the refreshing feeling kicks in and it all feels oh so good.

I had the norm for brekky and was on the road at 0715. The day was remarkably mild, it was overcast and the air had a coolness about it.

The town had a smokey haze lingering above it.

Riding was a pleasure on the asphalt. This disappeared after 10km and dirt continued on into Bom Jardim.

Many of the cement trucks were tooting me, as they had seen me on the road now during both their delivery and return trips.

A stop was made at a classic little bar, it had a dirt floor and adobe walls, there was a bunch of guys drinking rum among other brews there.

One of them shouted me a drink. Outside there was a wooden bridge on the road spanning a small creek, it was in bad repair. I watched a semi crossing it, the whole structure, right down to the piles in the creek were swaying.

It was being crossed, with much caution by all truck drivers.

Nearing Bom Jardim, in a deep cutting with a wide section of road through it.

A lady was selling Bolo, a sweet cake here. I had a couple of pieces of this and a black coffee.

She told me they had 25 acres and grew cacao, this area was popular for growing cacao, it was hilly.

She had a neat little dog called Madonna, They have great dog names here. Pablo and Madonna, in two days.

In Bom Jardim, lunch of pork chicharon, rice and salad was enjoyed.

This town was again like a wild west set. There were assorted shops on both sides of the wide dirt road, some closed, some open and all in a state of disrepair.

I found a restaurant in a rotunda type of set up in the middle of the road. It was the kind of place where two guys turned up on a moto with two chickens tied together by their feet. A deal was done amongst us diners and the owner wanders past with these two highly distressed birds and drops them over the hand rail by a table. Tomorrows menu was waiting to be dispatched.

After my meal I got up and went and had a look at these birds. They were upside down now with a stick running between their legs, two more were with them. They were breathing heavily with open beaks.

A sack was moving nearby, who knows what was in there.

This side of eating is never even remotely considered when eating food at home in our societies that are so far detached from reality. Meat is like something that was never living.

One thing is for sure, these birds at least had a free life, wandering about, pecking away as they do and possibly rearing young in the back yard.

This life leads to a great flavoursome meat.

Whilst on this topic of detachment from reality. I guess today, many people in big cities don’t even know what it is like to get wet in rain.

On a wet day they get up, climb into the car drive to the high-rise office, park the car in the underground carpark and take the lift to the office and do the same on the way home.

Their life is such where they are so far detached from the natural world that the weather really has nothing to do with their existence.

Excitement in their life, in many cases revolves around material purchases or money. Or, their next escape from their sublimely monotonous lives. An escape called a holiday for lack of a better term.  

It is quite scary, thinking about what one human being with a reasonable amount of money is capable of consuming in their lifetime. It will be interesting to see what happens when consumerism amongst many of the 3 billion Indians and Chinese becomes the norm.

Maybe, many more people in our societies will see their is another way to enjoy life without surrounding themselves in big houses full of electrical stuff that is obsolete almost as soon as they get it home.

Back to proceedings, a driver in the restaurant told me it was 10km to the asphalt.

There were lots of road works being carried out, many previous steep little climbs following the contours of the land were being cut.

Sure enough, after 10km, I was back on tar, it was a pleasure, that of smooth road mat type asphalt.

I was covered in dust. Soon in Anapu, I stopped and had a break for an hour. Back on the road with a full load of water. I needed to find a creek to wash freshen up . Evidently the road now was all paved to Altamira.

A creek was soon found that had access from the road. Careful not to put too much of my body in the murky waters, most of the dust was removed. I also stripped off and washed all my clothes.

It felt so good to be dust free and clock up good k’s on the 2 year old road.

The section of BR230 ridden so far has been tough in parts but not for long periods, to date,  two days at the most. The government really are improving this road at  great rate.

Just two years ago, from here back Novo Repartimento would have all been dirt.

At about 1730, I was out of energy, a small pueblito was encountered, I pulled and asked some people if I could camp behind the local evangelical church.

They were all just enjoying the cool afternoon air on porches decks.

One of them, Antonio, said I could stay in the little catholic church down the road.

He took me there, he rode his moto. He had the keys. It was unreal, I had use of the little church, with electricity and all the comforts of being indoors.

He took me to a creek on his moto and said I could wash there.

During my travels here in South America, churches of all denominations have been such fantastic and welcoming refuges.

Some of the most comfortable, safe nights have been in their grounds or indoors.

 Though not religious by any means, the goodwill and kindness of all involved with those properties slept at in the last few years has been overwhelming to say the least.

Thankyou, so much.

Once settled in, I put the tent up to act as a mossy screen, repaired a couple of things on the bike. Had a good read and promptly fell asleep.

Thanks so much Antonio, I felt safe and secure.

 

 

 

 

4/8/2014 Church to Altamira

D119, T12, Av18, Max76, 31,574/6039

Hot, late 30’s, little wind

I dropped the keys back to Antonios friend and got on the move about 0745.

A creaking whilst riding had gone. Last night I had removed both pedals again and greased the threads. This noise often spoilt the silence when no traffic was about.

The riding again was easy, good surface, good shoulder and not too much traffic.

With some music playing and an average speed of 20+, things couldn’t be better.

People were on the roadside waiting for buses. Always acknowledging them, some enthusiastically respond others are otherwise occupied and others can’t figure me out.

Soon a sign indicating Belo Monte was 10km up ahead, then one for 5km. Thinking to myself what is all this about. Come the 10km mark, arriving in Belo Monte. It was the embarkment point for a ferry across the Rio Xingu.

I’m not one for wanting to know exactly where I am too often. My paper maps are photocopies and not to clear.

What a huge river, this made such a welcome break in the trip.

The ferry was on the other side of the river, coming our way loaded with empty cement trucks.

Once against the southern shore we embarked, we included lots of motos, foot passengers, cars and trucks. It was a large ferry.

Half way across dolphins were seen near the boat, it was absolutely unreal this far inland. They were the Amazon dolphin with the unique head shape.

Once on the north bank in Belo Monte 2, I had a few drinks and empanadas in a small store.

The road from here was hard work, like back in Misiones in AR, with quite large climbs and just as big descents.

Todays top speed indicates this.

Some 20km on. I came to the construction area of hte new Rio Xingu hydro dam.

What a sight, cranes pointed skyward in the distance perched atop a huge concrete structure with shaped bedrock at its base.

Where the road was taking me would be a couple of hundred feet underwater a 3 or 4 years time.

Belo Monte Dam From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The Belo Monte Dam (formerly known as Kararaô) is a hydroelectric dam complex currently under construction on the Xingu River in the state of Pará, Brazil. The planned installed capacity of the dam complex would be 11,233 megawatts (MW), which would make it the second-largest hydroelectric dam complex in Brazil and one of the world's largest in installed capacity, behind the Three Gorges Dam in China and the Brazilian-Paraguayan Itaipu Dam. Considering the oscillations of flow river, guaranteed minimum capacity generation from the Belo Monte Dam would measure 4,571 MW, 39% of its maximum capacity.[2] Transmission lines would connect electricity generated by the dams' turbines to the main Brazilian power grid, which would distribute it throughout the country, both for residential and commercial consumption and to supply the growth of such industries as aluminium transformation and metallurgy. Brazil's rapid economic growth over the last decade has provoked a huge demand for new and stable sources of energy, especially to supply its growing industries. In Brazil, 46% of the energy consumed comes from renewable energy sources, and hydroelectric power plants produce over 85% of the electrical energy. The Government has decided to construct new hydroelectric dams to guarantee national energy security.

However, there is opposition both within Brazil and among the international community to the project's potential construction regarding its economic viability, the generation efficiency of the dams and in particular its impacts on the region's people and environment. In addition, critics worry that construction of the Belo Monte Dam could make the construction of other dams upstream, which could have greater impacts, more viable.

Plans for the dam began in 1975 but were soon shelved due to controversy; they were later revitalized in the late 1990s. In the 2000s, the dam was redesigned, but faced renewed controversy and (controversial) impact assessments were carried out. On 26 August 2010, a contract was signed with Norte Energia to construct the dam once the Brazilian Institute of Environment and Renewable Natural Resources (IBAMA) had issued an installation license. A partial installation license was granted on 26 January 2011 and a full license to construct the dam was issued on 1 June 2011. The licensing process and the dam's construction have been mired in federal court battles; the current ruling is that construction is allowed, because the license is based on five different environmental technical reports[3] and in accordance with the RIMA (Environmental Impact Report, EIA-RIMA) study for Belo Monte.[4]

History Plans for what would eventually be called the Belo Monte Dam Complex began in 1975 during Brazil's military dictatorship, when Eletronorte contracted the Consórcio Nacional de Engenheiros Consultores (CNEC) to realize a hydrographic study to locate potential sites for a hydroelectric project on the Xingu River. CNEC completed its study in 1979 and identified the possibility of constructing five dams on the Xingu River and one dam on the Iriri River.[5]

Original plans for the project based on the 1979 study included two dams close to Belo Monte. These were: Kararaô (called Belo Monte after 1989), Babaquara (called Altamira after 1998) which was the next upstream.[5] Four other dams were planned upstream as well and they include the Ipixuna, Kakraimoro, Iriri and Jarina. The project was part of Eletrobras' "2010 Plan" which included 297 dams that were to be constructed in Brazil by 2010. The plan was leaked early and officially released in December 1987 to an antagonistic public. The plan had Belo Monte to be constructed by 2000 and Altamira by 2005. Such a speedy timetable was due to the belief that Brazil's relatively new environmental regulations could not stop large projects.[6] The government offered little transparency to the people who would be affected regarding its plans for the hydroelectric project, provoking indigenous tribes of the region to organize what they called the I Encontro das Nações Indígenas do Xingu (First Encounter of the Indigenous Nations of the Xingu) or the "Altamira Gathering", in 1989. The encounter, symbolized by the indigenous woman leader Tuíra holding her machete against the face of then-engineer José Antonio Muniz Lopes sparked enormous repercussions both in Brazil and internationally over the plans for the six dams. As a result, the five dams above Belo Monte were removed from planning and Kararaô was renamed to Belo Monte at the request of the people of that tribe. Eletronorte also stated they would "resurvey the fall", meaning resurvey the dams on the river.[6][7]

Redesign Between 1989 and 2002, the Belo Monte project was redesigned. The reservoir's surface area was reduced from 1,225 km2 (473 sq mi) to 440 km2 (170 sq mi) by moving the dam further upstream. The main rationale for this was to reduce flooding of the Bacajá Indigenous Area. In 1998, the Babaquara Dam was again placed into planning but under a new name, the Altamira Dam. This surprised local leaders as they felt plans for the dams above Belo Monte were cancelled. Some officials in Brazil were determined to build a dam on a river with an average flow of 7,800 m3/s (275,454 cu ft/s) and at a site that offers a 87.5 m (287 ft) drop. One engineer said of the dam: "God only makes a place like Belo Monte once in a while. This place was made for a dam."[6] President of Eletronorte, José Muniz Lopes, in an interview with the newspaper O Liberal (Belo Monte entusiasma an Eletronorte por Sônia Zaghetto, 15 July 2001), affirmed:

"Within the electric sector's planning for the period 2010/2020, we’re looking at three dams – Marabá (Tocantins river), Altamira (previously called Babaquara, Xingu River) and Itaituba (São Luís do Tapajós). Some journalists say that we are not talking about these dams because we’re trying to hide them. It’s just that their time has not yet come. We’re now asking for authorization to intensify our studies for these dams. Brazil would be greatly benefited if we could follow Belo Monte with Marabá, then Altamira and Itaituba."

To the left of the huge partly completed monolith was the cement works where all those trucks discharged their powdery cargo.

The Rio Xingu, is a huge slow moving river at this point, crossing in the ferry it was hard even to see what way it flowed, such is the volume of water.

From here it was a case of riding through a construction site, with workers villages and tracks everywhere.

From here, I stopped at a ne Petrobras gas station and got water.

The heat of the day was upon me. I really wanted to get to Altamira as my dad is not to well and I needed to be in touch.

In this respect I was riding with just a bit of urgency, which in many respects is not good.

The climbing was getting harder and harder.

Soon I came upon a Lanchonette, here they showed me to the tap. It was waist high. Putting it on full flow, I sat under it and just let the warmish water drench me.

Lunch was ordered, though basic, chicken, beans and rice it was so good.

Time was spent chatting to a few drivers about the road.

Once again it was all hills with 30km to Altamira.

At about 1500, the city limits were entered. All the way from the new dam to town, every 5 minutes a bus was ferrying workers to the work site. It is a twenty four hour operation. Once the wet kicks in many tasks become impossible.

Coming to the top of hte last climb to town, it was a pleasure looking down hill to the blue waters of this huge tributary of the Amazon river.

Once in town on the foreshores, people at the lanchonette had told me of a cheap hotel here, I spotted an ice cream sop overlooking the river, they had my favourite flavour.

Two tubs of Menta Granazada were eaten like it was my first meal in a month, they were divine.

A good friend in phoned US was phoned as were my parents.

At the Bela Vista hotel they were full. Infact every hotel visited was full. The only places with vacancies were upper end lodgings. In my position a waste of money.

Though not concerned I found myself still looking for a hotel at 2000 in hte dark, though always with the lit streets. I went back to the Bela Vista and asked if he knew of a place. The Plaza he said. Having directions,I pulled in , they had a room with 2 single and ne dudle bed with a shower and toilet and a fan.

At 40 dollars a night. I grabbed it. It was so good to be off the  streets.

All of a sudden I realised how worn out I was. I had a shower lay down. At 2130 wandered down the road for a beer and food.

Once back at the room I stacked up 3 pillows on my bed in a comfortable way, put the fan on, fell onto the bed, that is all that is remembered.


Altamira is a city in the state of Pará, in northern Brazil. It is the largest municipality in the Americas by area, and the second in the world, after Jiuquan, China. It the home of the Territorial Prelature of Xingu.

If Altamira were a country, it would be the 91st largest, bigger than Greece and Nepal and almost the size of Tunisia and Uruguay.

Altamira is served by Altamira Airport.

Economy The municipal GDP is around US$ 450 million and is mainly linked to agricultural activities, trade and since 2010 has been driven by the construction of the Belo Monte Dam.

Belo Monte Dam In Altamira the 3rd largest dam in the world (by generating capacity (behind Three Gorges Dam and Itaipu Dam), with a capacity of 11.233 MW/h) is being built; the construction work was started in 2010 and should be completed in 2019.

Geography Altamira is located in a transition area between the Brazilian Highlands and Amazonian Lowlands, is situated on the shores of the Xingu River a tributary of the Amazon River, with average elevation of 109 meters. This is the 2nd largest city in the world in land area.

Climate The climate of Altamira is tropical humid, with high temperatures all year and average rainfall of 2150 mm (84 inches) annually. The seasons are undefined, with only change in rainfall rate.

Winters are warm and rainy, with lows between 19°C and 22°C and highs of 26°C and 35°C.

Summers are warmer and drier with lows between 22°C and 26°C and highs of 30°C and 40°C.




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Safe and comfortable
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Some bridges were tricky for a bicycle
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Rio Xingu at Belo Monte, waiting for the ferry.
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This mist was like a light rain, it made for half pleasant conditions. Big gaps in traffic with no dust about, the experience is such a pleasure.
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This and others like them ultimately keep our electronics charged. One might think, at what cost. Whilst the sun shines above?
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Guys making pavers to be laid behind them at a huge new Petrobras gas station, just up from the dam.
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Waterfront Altamira, Rio Xingu
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Breakfast in my room. Altamira.
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Sawmill approaching Pacajá
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Typical of my lodgings, no frills, a bed, water and a pedestal fan. Todo bem!! Pacajá.
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returning empty from the dam construction site
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This spot will be under water soon
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First view of Altamira
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First rain I had seen since my second day in Brazil.
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The new pavement. A good shoulder kept it safe.
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