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  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
Picture
impromptu entertainment in Wirgesa
9/3/2015   Me’kele to Hewani
D56, T5,  Av13.65, Max 62, 38383, 3469
Strong easterlies then the hills offered some shelter.

Yesterday, my need to have meat was met at the restaurant Lazorea in Me’kele. On offer was goat. It was roasted and lightly spiced.
The restaurant was quite a well to do establishment. There were some Ethiopian business people eating as well. Anyway, half way through my meal a goat was heard squealing from the kitchen. It was on its way to the green paddock in the sky, if such exists!! In order to provide meat for future diners. This month of March is the fasting month so it is difficult to find meat in places other than those upmarket.
We were fit as fiddles after almost 3 days rest. It is so noticeable the difference between people here. Only a kilometre from Me’kele, the carts started and the rural life prevailed. People’s poorness was very apparent. Whilst in the city there were people smartly dressed. Guys with girls wandering the streets like any other city in the world.
We were completely left alone. The difference between those in the cities and those on the land is huge.
Today on the road, some children were following me. Walking towards them, were two teenagers with books. They told these children to stop following me. This difference is also obvious from an education point of view. Many of the rural children don’t attend schools. When their chores are done, they are free to roam. We offer great entertainment for many.
We stopped for lunch in a village, For 20 birr they bought out a little plate each with a scrambled egg and two tiny piles of vegetables. This was ridiculous we told them, and said we would not pay this price.
In the end we just walked off. These were blatant Farangi prices. Back up the road for the same price, we got more than we could almost eat.
Even a couple of English speaking locals boys agreed on the excessive charge.
Pedro and I don’t put up with any overcharging, we both have budgets and now always ask before buying anything from a banana to a bottle of coke.
The road now is quite busy with trucks. Consequently, on the downhill sections the road was very lumpy due to the asphalt creeping under their weight.
At about 1500, we came upon the village of Hewani.
We decided to stop here the night and take on the 25km plus climb tomorrow.
All these hotels are costing us no more than a couple of dollars a night. There is no real reason to camp.
Though, if a good campsite away from people was spotted we would utilize it. These are very rare here.
The rim that was damaged on the bridge is a problem on smooth roads. I can feel the spot that is slightly off round. Though it may , a replacement will be sought somewhere. The Sun Rhinolite rims I use are quite hard to find.
A dinner of pasta was enjoyed next door to the hotel.
This town is like one huge truck stop. There were trucks everywhere. Young boys were cleaning many. Young hookers were on the roadside hailing trucks as they arrived in town. People were fitting new tyres. The owner of the restaurant told us many drivers will leave for Addis at 0300 in the morning. Like us, they are overnighting before heading into the mountains.
10/3/2015    Hewani to Maychew
D73, T7,  Av10.63, Max 65, 38455, 3542
Wind funnelling in hills, fine and cool on the tops

The owner of the hotel said we would hear all the trucks leaving about 0300, this we did not.
Once out on the road, again it was a gentle climb. We soon reached and intersection with a left turn. On maps, it was the road the trucks take to avoid the ranges. It was not on my paper map, so must be quite new. Our route through the mountains would be truck free, great!
From here, the scenery was just magic. It was a rural vista with people and animals going about their every day chores. People were weeding young corn, others were using ox to plough rocky paddocks, some were making ox walk in circles over wheat stalks to separate the grain.
The roadside was busy with goats, sheep and cattle wandering ahead of their owners. All this was framed, in a lovely valley of terraced sides. The road took us slowly up through this rich valley. The people were very friendly and not interested in money or pens.
Even the kids were well behaved. They had things to do.
Soon we had to ascend to get out of this valley. It was a 25km climb including the slow ascent in the valley. At the top, the altitude was 3200 metres. The views in the next valley were superb, but as usual very hazy.
It was quite chilly up here. My Icebreaker long sleeved shirt was put on.
The descent was on a switch back road with tight bends so it was braking all the way down.
In the town, we had the best Injera to date. The young owner said it was a new business he was out to impress. He sure did.
It is on the left as you come into town up a few stairs.
We rested here, then decided to continue. Again, we wound around the valley. A stop at a well was made. We topped up on water with the idea of camping, as Maychew was still quite a way.
We soon started another ascent. This took us up through coppiced Eucalypt plantations. I passed Pedro in a village as he was having problems with more kids.
Climbing higher there were fir trees growing. With a full load of water onboard it was hard work.
All the while, I thought Pedro was ahead of me. Asking people, they all indicated they had seen him. People in this area speak Tigre and Amharic. All most all did not understand my English and just agreed.
Suddenly near the tops Pedro came up behind me.
It was a surprise, and good to be together again. It was incredibly cold up here. My raincoat and beany were donned. My runners had been worn all day for a change, in hindsight it was a good decision. We were going to camp at the top. We could see Maychew in the distant valley so decided to head for it. The descent was some 8km.
We finally got into town just on dark and found a great little hotel.
Both of us were tonally trashed. We didn’t even shower, the water was to cold.
Pasta was enjoyed up the road.
Ethiopia telecom is working out very expensive to use the net on our phones. They appear to be operating in an environment with little or no competition.
My damaged rim is holding up which is good news.
My knees were aching into the night after this big day. It is a pain that is bearable, today had been a huge effort. They really are handling things well. This northern route in Ethiopia is hard work but the visual rewards far outweigh the physical effort required.
Seven yearsnago I visited my Orthopaedic surgeon, in Coffs Harbour, Ian Chan. MRI and cat scans showed the knees in a poor state. He indicated that I was too young to have reconstruction. At the end of the consultation, Ian said to me “Do everything to the best of your ability, except no jogging.
 This was a piece of great advice, I have been doing just that. The old knees, though they grind at times, are now well supported with strong muscle tissue as protection and support.
Playing tennis due to rapid direction change is difficult and walking down hills is a killer.




11/3/2015    Maychew to Korem (Hotel Desta Milaw)
D43, T3.5, Av12.36, Max 64, 38498, 3585
Fine cool and little wind

Yesterday had been a huge day with two long climbs and long hours. Pedro is still having problems with things biting him. I had a beer and after dinner had promptly fallen asleep. The motels were are staying in see me sleep in my sleeping bag every night. They are a “bring your own padlock” affair to lock the doors. We both have these so it is not a problem.
As usual, there was a climb out of town. The scenery here in the mountains of Ethiopia is one where almost every inch of land is terraced or worked. Only the steepest country is untouched.
With all the Eucalypts about and so much timber used. Interestingly a chainsaw has never been heard. Such is the basic lifestyle here.
At one point going up the hill two guys were seen picked up a rock the size of a folded pillow. The two of them were struggling to pick it up. They then placed on the lower back of a woman who was hunched over. Her hands supported the underside of the boulder and her back took the weight. Unbelievably, she walked across the road with this burden and dropped it on a pile already there.
The eperform so many physical tasks. It is not uncommon to see middle aged and elderly women carrying huge bundles of firewood across  their shoulders. They may carry this for a few km.
Pedro and I both agreed by the time they fetch water, get firewood and manually work the paddocks it would be easy to fill in a day.
With this kind of life of manual activities. It is easy to see why so many seek spiritual refuge in the church. It offers a balance of sorts.
The children around this area were becoming a problem, they were following us for long distances and throwing stones on occasions.
We soon came upon Lake Ashenge. It was cradled in a vast gently sloping valley. The green flats alongside the body of water were covered in grazing cattle.
We had the privilege of riding 1km on truly flat road. The scenery was fascinating, once again every inch of land was utilised.
Some teenagers here threw stones at me, always once we pass. I was ahead of Pedro when we caught up he told me the same kids had hit his bike with stones.
These teenagers with little to do are always a problem.
The ride around the lake was most enjoyable. Lots of kids were on their way to school.
Unfortunately many were cheeky. It was groups of girls who were the problem.
Going up a hill past the lake a group of girls followed me, one ripped a water bottle from the bike, it fell on the road.  
I gave them a stern earful as I rounded up to get the bottle. They all scattered off the edge of the road into the trees.
Once again, it is great to have company, to be able to discuss these issues and get over them quickly.
One blog read said how difficult it is not to lose ones composure with all this harassment.
Personally, I love riding in the mountain country, hills are hard enough. It is the solitude and time to reflect and dream that makes them a pleasure. Here with all this harassment makes the cycling very hard on steep sections. Often 2 or 3 children will follow us for  a few kilometers. There is no space to listen to music, dream or plan. It is just a constant give me money, give me pens.
Once out of all this, we arrived in the village of Korem. Here I bought a stalk of sugar cane. It really is nice to chew on. So sweet, but hard work on ones teeth.
Up the road a bit, we stopped for lunch, now 1400hrs.
There was a deep drain between the road and the restaurant with only a small footbridge, we took the bikes over this and leaned them against the building wall. We were free from crowding kids.
Lunch of Injera and pasta was enjoyed. In this month of fasting all we can buy is Injera and pasta. Meat is only available in the cities.
Up the road we checked a hotel whilst Pedro was  inside, at 80 children had gathered around me. Many were students.
Some studied chemistry. We had a guessing game of the chemical formulas for air, salt, copper sulphate etc. Science was one of my favourite subjects at school.
This hotel was a tourist stop, not for us. In town we found a place for 35 burr a night. The afternoon was spent checking the bikes. My Go Pro was remounted on my front rack. I made a phone call to the states to arrange some rims to be sent to Australia. The Sun Ryhinolite can’t be bought there. Oddly enough, there are no importers for this brilliantly strong rim. A 32 holer was ordered. I will rebuild the rear wheel using my existing hub and spokes.
You can order these rims @ brian.hinckley@wheelandsprocket.net or tel. 18669959918
Dinner of, you guessed it, pasta was enjoyed next door.

12/3/2015     Korem to Weldiya
D101, T6, Av16.20, Max 66, 38599, 3686
Fine cool and little wind, hot once in the valley.

We both had a good nights sleep. Leaving town was another climb, though gentle, some corners were a bit steep.
Some 3km we were at the top of the range, the view was one that made us feel great. Way off in the distance below us we could see the town of Kepho. Beyond this was a flat road that just disappeared into the haze.
The ride down was brilliant, nice sweeping turns, a few tight, but always getting warmer as we descended.
For the first time I got my Gopro going. It is now mounted on the front rack.
Once down in the busy town, it was incredibly warm. There was a huge wasp nest down here. (tuk tuks). They are always a traffic hazard.
We rode straight through here.
The surrounding valley was very lush with people working in most fields preparing for the coming rains. Paddocks were being ploughed with oxen and people were tending young crops. The road was busy with all the usual carts and donkeys as well as pedestrians by the hundreds.
It was so good to be cruising on flat road. Pedro was up ahead. I was busy posting photos as things happened on Instagram.
We stopped for a bite under a tree and soon had the usual crowd gathered.
On the road now we are both over these kids and teenagers asking for money.
I say to them, have you got money for me and tell them to use please.
Pedro tells them to say welcome not ask for money.
Even though many say Salam at our departure it is always money or pens.
The Ethiopian young seem to have this installed mentality where, someone has told them they are one of the poorest peoples in the world.
They think everyone should give them something.
There needs to be a national education scheme to inform people they maybe materially poor but rich in other ways.
Evens adults will cup their hands or rub their fingers together in gestures for money.
Though many adults don’t. The older people return the greeting Salam to us with a deep felt greeting that can be seen and felt.
It is the teenagers with nothing to do who are the real problem, some are just malicious.
The road kept winding through the valley, still flat. Lunch of meat was enjoyed in a large town. This was a real treat.
Riding on the road took us along the edge of the valley. People here were incredibly friendly and fun to greet.
In this intense sun my ears are getting sunburnt, this has to be watched, my neck warmer is being worn over my head now to cover them.
We had a chance of reaching Wediya if the road stayed flat.
In one particular village there were people all over the road. Two guys were crossing the road when a minivan can around the bend, they scattered, one of them straight into me. He nearly fell over, but was ok. I saw it coming and fended him off with a rigid left elbow still on the handlebars. Both of us were none the worse off.

My google map, set on terrain showed 1 climb out of the valley just before Weldiya.
This road took us up a deep valley and through a tunnel.
By the time we reached the city outskirts it was 0700 and dark. It had been a big day, in which 6 small bottles of coke were consumed along with large amounts of water, some sugar cane had also been chewed whilst waiting for Pedro at the top of one small climb.
 A few hotels were checked but to expensive. A nice young med student took us to a non descript place.
It was basic in every sense but suited us. The local power supply was cut just after we settled in.
Pasta and juice were enjoyed across the road. No showers were taken due to there being no water.
My nose has been running for a couple of weeks now. Due to all the dust and other particles in the air.
I feel it is now developing into a light flu infection. We will see.
I have been keeping in touch with Oliver, the Swiss guy and Neil and Sho Sho who are ahead of us. Oliver emailed a list of places he stayed at south of us which is great.
Sho and Neil are nearing the Kenyan border. We are all going to take the Lake Turkana route. So information from them will be great.
 13/3/2015     Korem to Wigesa
D55, T3.5, Av14.13, Max 56, 38653, 3741
Fine hot, and little wind. Temp about 27

Awoken by sounds in my room at 0400, a scan with my headlight, revealed an extremely well fed rat investigating my food.
It retreated into a hole in the wall, which was promptly blocked with toilet paper.
 This hotel was a rough affair. There was no water and the toilet was for us a no go zone.
The powerwas out for the early evening. This is quite common here, on more than a few occasions in these smaller villages there have been power outages in the evenings.
Pedro performed his morning ablutions in a potty in the room. I waited till we got out of town and some open spaces.
I went into town early to get a recharge card for the phone. A tout was on to me wanting to take me to Lalibela and the cliff churches. He was told to leave me alone. These guys are such a pain anywhere in the world.
My blog was updated between 0400 and 0530 over a coffee then it was back to bed. Bed bugs also annoyed me in the night.
We were on the road by 0830 and promptly took the wrong road but were soon back on track.
A usual there was a climb from town. We were both hungry after the big effort yesterday.
So, a stop was made for bread and banas at the top of the climb. The day was spent making small climbs and descents with some rolling country between. A stop was made for injera in a village . Here we spent over an hour chatting with an English speaker. We tried Chat . The leaf they chew here.
I was totally worn out and could have easily fallen asleep.
Back on the road it was the usual calling from kids. A few boys followed us on new Chinese bikes of very questionable quality.
Following one boy, it was noticed his rear wheel was not true. I stopped him to tell him I would try and fix it. Once it was upside down on the road. The problem was due to a broken spoke on the cassette side. Nothing could be done about this.
It was a slow cruise to our destination.
For me it was one of those days when I couldn’t wait just to lie on a bed. At one point just ahead of us a Tuk Tuk pulled over to pick some people up. There were six of them on the side of the road. They just kept disappearing into this tiny vehicle. I wandered up to them and started counting those on board there were 7 people. Talk about sardines!
Thankfully, we soon arrived at the small village of Wigesa. Here Pedro did the honours of checking what turned out to be the only hotel in the town.
The owners were Muslim and very friendly. Pedro came back and said it was ok but dirty.  I said how did it rate with last nights affair. He said about the same. We didn’t have many choices so wheeled our bikes into the rear open area.
The rooms were large with concrete floors but it didn’t appear too bad. What there was in uncleanliness, was more than compensated by the fantastic people that owned the place. All the women were out the back making bread. The owners son could speak very good English for his age. He was a great kid (15)
All my road clothes were washed, including the inners of my runners. For me it is just too hot riding in footwear, so it is back to the Keen sandals tomorrow.
Whilst just relaxing in the room some very raw music was heard coming from the courtyard. On inspection, here was this old guy, a thin man with a very warm face and about as much hair as me. He was singing in Ahmaric with much emotion. Accompanying the singing was the sound from a traditional Ethiopian one string instrument, the masinko.
He was serenading me singing about Farangis and saying I was an angel!!
For me it was very moving, his voice was very rich and full of emotion. One of the women started dancing, I gave it my best shot also. Pedro soon came out.
It was a privilege to see this great musician playing.
We ate in the hotel. Pasta with misr and a couple of St Georges.
Earlier a visit was made into the main street. It was funny to be walking and getting all the attention. The people of the village were a very friendly good humoured bunch. A tape measure was borrowed from a store to measure my rim width before ordering the new one from the states.
We were in bed by about 2200, well fed and very relaxed.
Especially after the great shower from a rose that allowed plenty of water to flow, it was even luke warm due to the sun on the roof top tank.
A shave was taken. Tomorrow we plan to ride to Dese for a few days break. From here, there are some high passes to encounter. Oliver posted pics from an altitude of 3400m on the road south from Dese.
For these, we want to be well rested.
14/3/2015     Wirgesa to Dese
D69, T5.39, Av12.39, Max 55, 38,723, 3,755
Slow climb almost all day, fine and warm.

Last night we enjoyed a home cooked pasta and a couple of St Georges. I tried to help Gorgim create a Google account on his phone.
We both had problems with bed bugs. Pedros room was infested, he hardly slept all night and had to set up his airbed on the floor in the middle of the night.
I am beginning to think that bedbugs don’t like biting me and migrate into Pedros room during the middle of the night for some luxury dining.
We enjoyed breakfast of scrambled eggs and their bread for brekky with a coffee. We got a great insight into normal life here in a village in Ethiopia. There was early morning bread making, the coffee ritual, sweeping the dirt floor and the girl that worked here bought her sheep along for the day.
Pedro felt dead on departure due to lack of sleep. I was quite the opposite.
 There was a small climb from town and then a great gentle downhill run for 10km or more. We then entered part of the rift valley the scenery was absolutely stunning.
On our right were fields with teepee type stacks of fodder stalks, behind this the fields gently sloped up to the foot of abrupt steep tree clad ranges ranges with the horizontal rock formation.
The road was gently sloping downhill.
 It was hot and a magic cloudless sky. Here in this stunning scenery I had goose bumps on my legs and arms, my body was tingling with adrenalin, talk about a natural high.
We rode through this scenery all to quick due to the slope. Down at the river crossing some sugar cane was bought, a foot long stalk is two birr.
The heavier the better, this is an indication of the liquid content.
The sugary sweet liquid inside is a great  energy fix.
In the valley oranges also grew.
From here we climb most of the day. On reaching Hayke, Pedro was totally worn out. We found a great restaurant, Pedro could only stomach plain pasta. I treated myself to the local fish from the lake. This was shredded and served in spicy sauce with bread.
Whilst eating beggars from the churches would come along and say a few words. The restaurant staff would give them all the scraps. This is customary on the weekends.
Another older, and very destitute man was wandering around with a blanket over his shoulders. He was wearing nothing else.
We both fell asleep at the restaurant table for a short time. The day was very hot about 1300.
Once moving on we stopped for juice just down the road.
All the rest of the day was spent slowly climbing, it was not till1730 hours could we see Dese in the distance from the top of the range .
It was a cool ride in the shadows down to the large city.
Here Oliver had told us to stay at the Odom Pensions. Other places were checked but all were too expensive or were above bars, which were full of prostitutes.
The Odem had the latter lingering but they were no hassle.
I bought a large Papaya on the way into town and once in the wandered down the road to a guy selling fries. These tasted so good.
Pedro was not to be seen, he went straight to bed. A nice pasta and vegetable dish was enjoyed down the road.
Once down the road, and on my bed, I fell asleep and woke up at midnight by noise outside, quickly unchanged and climbed into my sleeping bag. The climbing most of the day had left us both worn out.

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On the road to Dese. This scenery, left me astounded. The manual human endeavours in the vistas just added to the scene.
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Water, and the provision of it at ones house is such an important task here. Often performed near the end of the day in the coolness
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The guys were fun to ride with for awhile.
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many cafes and restaurants lay grass on the floors of their dining areas. It is traditional in coffee shops and for festivities.
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Always all sorts of company at the back of hotels.
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Congos, the national sandal, worn by many in rural areas, proudly made in Ethiopia. they cost about $2
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There are always stock on the road but all are road smart.
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Even the sheep seek shelter from the hot sun.
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on top of the world here in Ethiopia
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Pedro made a break from this crew of school children in pursuit.
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Life on the road here in Ethiopia is much easier with two riders. The bikes can be watched while one of us inspect a hotel among many other advantages.
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Ethiopia is home to the red hot poker plant. Kniphofia spp.
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Typical rural house in the rocky hill country. Near Mekele
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Repairs to our bikes at a heavy machinery workshop on the way into Mekele
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