impromptu entertainment in Wirgesa
9/3/2015 Me’kele to Hewani
D56, T5, Av13.65, Max 62, 38383, 3469
Strong easterlies then the hills offered some shelter.
Yesterday, my need to have meat was met at the restaurant Lazorea in Me’kele. On offer was goat. It was roasted and lightly spiced.
The restaurant was quite a well to do establishment. There were some Ethiopian business people eating as well. Anyway, half way through my meal a goat was heard squealing from the kitchen. It was on its way to the green paddock in the sky, if such exists!! In order to provide meat for future diners. This month of March is the fasting month so it is difficult to find meat in places other than those upmarket.
We were fit as fiddles after almost 3 days rest. It is so noticeable the difference between people here. Only a kilometre from Me’kele, the carts started and the rural life prevailed. People’s poorness was very apparent. Whilst in the city there were people smartly dressed. Guys with girls wandering the streets like any other city in the world.
We were completely left alone. The difference between those in the cities and those on the land is huge.
Today on the road, some children were following me. Walking towards them, were two teenagers with books. They told these children to stop following me. This difference is also obvious from an education point of view. Many of the rural children don’t attend schools. When their chores are done, they are free to roam. We offer great entertainment for many.
We stopped for lunch in a village, For 20 birr they bought out a little plate each with a scrambled egg and two tiny piles of vegetables. This was ridiculous we told them, and said we would not pay this price.
In the end we just walked off. These were blatant Farangi prices. Back up the road for the same price, we got more than we could almost eat.
Even a couple of English speaking locals boys agreed on the excessive charge.
Pedro and I don’t put up with any overcharging, we both have budgets and now always ask before buying anything from a banana to a bottle of coke.
The road now is quite busy with trucks. Consequently, on the downhill sections the road was very lumpy due to the asphalt creeping under their weight.
At about 1500, we came upon the village of Hewani.
We decided to stop here the night and take on the 25km plus climb tomorrow.
All these hotels are costing us no more than a couple of dollars a night. There is no real reason to camp.
Though, if a good campsite away from people was spotted we would utilize it. These are very rare here.
The rim that was damaged on the bridge is a problem on smooth roads. I can feel the spot that is slightly off round. Though it may , a replacement will be sought somewhere. The Sun Rhinolite rims I use are quite hard to find.
A dinner of pasta was enjoyed next door to the hotel.
This town is like one huge truck stop. There were trucks everywhere. Young boys were cleaning many. Young hookers were on the roadside hailing trucks as they arrived in town. People were fitting new tyres. The owner of the restaurant told us many drivers will leave for Addis at 0300 in the morning. Like us, they are overnighting before heading into the mountains.
10/3/2015 Hewani to Maychew
D73, T7, Av10.63, Max 65, 38455, 3542
Wind funnelling in hills, fine and cool on the tops
The owner of the hotel said we would hear all the trucks leaving about 0300, this we did not.
Once out on the road, again it was a gentle climb. We soon reached and intersection with a left turn. On maps, it was the road the trucks take to avoid the ranges. It was not on my paper map, so must be quite new. Our route through the mountains would be truck free, great!
From here, the scenery was just magic. It was a rural vista with people and animals going about their every day chores. People were weeding young corn, others were using ox to plough rocky paddocks, some were making ox walk in circles over wheat stalks to separate the grain.
The roadside was busy with goats, sheep and cattle wandering ahead of their owners. All this was framed, in a lovely valley of terraced sides. The road took us slowly up through this rich valley. The people were very friendly and not interested in money or pens.
Even the kids were well behaved. They had things to do.
Soon we had to ascend to get out of this valley. It was a 25km climb including the slow ascent in the valley. At the top, the altitude was 3200 metres. The views in the next valley were superb, but as usual very hazy.
It was quite chilly up here. My Icebreaker long sleeved shirt was put on.
The descent was on a switch back road with tight bends so it was braking all the way down.
In the town, we had the best Injera to date. The young owner said it was a new business he was out to impress. He sure did.
It is on the left as you come into town up a few stairs.
We rested here, then decided to continue. Again, we wound around the valley. A stop at a well was made. We topped up on water with the idea of camping, as Maychew was still quite a way.
We soon started another ascent. This took us up through coppiced Eucalypt plantations. I passed Pedro in a village as he was having problems with more kids.
Climbing higher there were fir trees growing. With a full load of water onboard it was hard work.
All the while, I thought Pedro was ahead of me. Asking people, they all indicated they had seen him. People in this area speak Tigre and Amharic. All most all did not understand my English and just agreed.
Suddenly near the tops Pedro came up behind me.
It was a surprise, and good to be together again. It was incredibly cold up here. My raincoat and beany were donned. My runners had been worn all day for a change, in hindsight it was a good decision. We were going to camp at the top. We could see Maychew in the distant valley so decided to head for it. The descent was some 8km.
We finally got into town just on dark and found a great little hotel.
Both of us were tonally trashed. We didn’t even shower, the water was to cold.
Pasta was enjoyed up the road.
Ethiopia telecom is working out very expensive to use the net on our phones. They appear to be operating in an environment with little or no competition.
My damaged rim is holding up which is good news.
My knees were aching into the night after this big day. It is a pain that is bearable, today had been a huge effort. They really are handling things well. This northern route in Ethiopia is hard work but the visual rewards far outweigh the physical effort required.
Seven yearsnago I visited my Orthopaedic surgeon, in Coffs Harbour, Ian Chan. MRI and cat scans showed the knees in a poor state. He indicated that I was too young to have reconstruction. At the end of the consultation, Ian said to me “Do everything to the best of your ability, except no jogging.
This was a piece of great advice, I have been doing just that. The old knees, though they grind at times, are now well supported with strong muscle tissue as protection and support.
Playing tennis due to rapid direction change is difficult and walking down hills is a killer.
11/3/2015 Maychew to Korem (Hotel Desta Milaw)
D43, T3.5, Av12.36, Max 64, 38498, 3585
Fine cool and little wind
Yesterday had been a huge day with two long climbs and long hours. Pedro is still having problems with things biting him. I had a beer and after dinner had promptly fallen asleep. The motels were are staying in see me sleep in my sleeping bag every night. They are a “bring your own padlock” affair to lock the doors. We both have these so it is not a problem.
As usual, there was a climb out of town. The scenery here in the mountains of Ethiopia is one where almost every inch of land is terraced or worked. Only the steepest country is untouched.
With all the Eucalypts about and so much timber used. Interestingly a chainsaw has never been heard. Such is the basic lifestyle here.
At one point going up the hill two guys were seen picked up a rock the size of a folded pillow. The two of them were struggling to pick it up. They then placed on the lower back of a woman who was hunched over. Her hands supported the underside of the boulder and her back took the weight. Unbelievably, she walked across the road with this burden and dropped it on a pile already there.
The eperform so many physical tasks. It is not uncommon to see middle aged and elderly women carrying huge bundles of firewood across their shoulders. They may carry this for a few km.
Pedro and I both agreed by the time they fetch water, get firewood and manually work the paddocks it would be easy to fill in a day.
With this kind of life of manual activities. It is easy to see why so many seek spiritual refuge in the church. It offers a balance of sorts.
The children around this area were becoming a problem, they were following us for long distances and throwing stones on occasions.
We soon came upon Lake Ashenge. It was cradled in a vast gently sloping valley. The green flats alongside the body of water were covered in grazing cattle.
We had the privilege of riding 1km on truly flat road. The scenery was fascinating, once again every inch of land was utilised.
Some teenagers here threw stones at me, always once we pass. I was ahead of Pedro when we caught up he told me the same kids had hit his bike with stones.
These teenagers with little to do are always a problem.
The ride around the lake was most enjoyable. Lots of kids were on their way to school.
Unfortunately many were cheeky. It was groups of girls who were the problem.
Going up a hill past the lake a group of girls followed me, one ripped a water bottle from the bike, it fell on the road.
I gave them a stern earful as I rounded up to get the bottle. They all scattered off the edge of the road into the trees.
Once again, it is great to have company, to be able to discuss these issues and get over them quickly.
One blog read said how difficult it is not to lose ones composure with all this harassment.
Personally, I love riding in the mountain country, hills are hard enough. It is the solitude and time to reflect and dream that makes them a pleasure. Here with all this harassment makes the cycling very hard on steep sections. Often 2 or 3 children will follow us for a few kilometers. There is no space to listen to music, dream or plan. It is just a constant give me money, give me pens.
Once out of all this, we arrived in the village of Korem. Here I bought a stalk of sugar cane. It really is nice to chew on. So sweet, but hard work on ones teeth.
Up the road a bit, we stopped for lunch, now 1400hrs.
There was a deep drain between the road and the restaurant with only a small footbridge, we took the bikes over this and leaned them against the building wall. We were free from crowding kids.
Lunch of Injera and pasta was enjoyed. In this month of fasting all we can buy is Injera and pasta. Meat is only available in the cities.
Up the road we checked a hotel whilst Pedro was inside, at 80 children had gathered around me. Many were students.
Some studied chemistry. We had a guessing game of the chemical formulas for air, salt, copper sulphate etc. Science was one of my favourite subjects at school.
This hotel was a tourist stop, not for us. In town we found a place for 35 burr a night. The afternoon was spent checking the bikes. My Go Pro was remounted on my front rack. I made a phone call to the states to arrange some rims to be sent to Australia. The Sun Ryhinolite can’t be bought there. Oddly enough, there are no importers for this brilliantly strong rim. A 32 holer was ordered. I will rebuild the rear wheel using my existing hub and spokes.
You can order these rims @ [email protected] or tel. 18669959918
Dinner of, you guessed it, pasta was enjoyed next door.
12/3/2015 Korem to Weldiya
D101, T6, Av16.20, Max 66, 38599, 3686
Fine cool and little wind, hot once in the valley.
We both had a good nights sleep. Leaving town was another climb, though gentle, some corners were a bit steep.
Some 3km we were at the top of the range, the view was one that made us feel great. Way off in the distance below us we could see the town of Kepho. Beyond this was a flat road that just disappeared into the haze.
The ride down was brilliant, nice sweeping turns, a few tight, but always getting warmer as we descended.
For the first time I got my Gopro going. It is now mounted on the front rack.
Once down in the busy town, it was incredibly warm. There was a huge wasp nest down here. (tuk tuks). They are always a traffic hazard.
We rode straight through here.
The surrounding valley was very lush with people working in most fields preparing for the coming rains. Paddocks were being ploughed with oxen and people were tending young crops. The road was busy with all the usual carts and donkeys as well as pedestrians by the hundreds.
It was so good to be cruising on flat road. Pedro was up ahead. I was busy posting photos as things happened on Instagram.
We stopped for a bite under a tree and soon had the usual crowd gathered.
On the road now we are both over these kids and teenagers asking for money.
I say to them, have you got money for me and tell them to use please.
Pedro tells them to say welcome not ask for money.
Even though many say Salam at our departure it is always money or pens.
The Ethiopian young seem to have this installed mentality where, someone has told them they are one of the poorest peoples in the world.
They think everyone should give them something.
There needs to be a national education scheme to inform people they maybe materially poor but rich in other ways.
Evens adults will cup their hands or rub their fingers together in gestures for money.
Though many adults don’t. The older people return the greeting Salam to us with a deep felt greeting that can be seen and felt.
It is the teenagers with nothing to do who are the real problem, some are just malicious.
The road kept winding through the valley, still flat. Lunch of meat was enjoyed in a large town. This was a real treat.
Riding on the road took us along the edge of the valley. People here were incredibly friendly and fun to greet.
In this intense sun my ears are getting sunburnt, this has to be watched, my neck warmer is being worn over my head now to cover them.
We had a chance of reaching Wediya if the road stayed flat.
In one particular village there were people all over the road. Two guys were crossing the road when a minivan can around the bend, they scattered, one of them straight into me. He nearly fell over, but was ok. I saw it coming and fended him off with a rigid left elbow still on the handlebars. Both of us were none the worse off.
My google map, set on terrain showed 1 climb out of the valley just before Weldiya.
This road took us up a deep valley and through a tunnel.
By the time we reached the city outskirts it was 0700 and dark. It had been a big day, in which 6 small bottles of coke were consumed along with large amounts of water, some sugar cane had also been chewed whilst waiting for Pedro at the top of one small climb.
A few hotels were checked but to expensive. A nice young med student took us to a non descript place.
It was basic in every sense but suited us. The local power supply was cut just after we settled in.
Pasta and juice were enjoyed across the road. No showers were taken due to there being no water.
My nose has been running for a couple of weeks now. Due to all the dust and other particles in the air.
I feel it is now developing into a light flu infection. We will see.
I have been keeping in touch with Oliver, the Swiss guy and Neil and Sho Sho who are ahead of us. Oliver emailed a list of places he stayed at south of us which is great.
Sho and Neil are nearing the Kenyan border. We are all going to take the Lake Turkana route. So information from them will be great.
13/3/2015 Korem to Wigesa
D55, T3.5, Av14.13, Max 56, 38653, 3741
Fine hot, and little wind. Temp about 27
Awoken by sounds in my room at 0400, a scan with my headlight, revealed an extremely well fed rat investigating my food.
It retreated into a hole in the wall, which was promptly blocked with toilet paper.
This hotel was a rough affair. There was no water and the toilet was for us a no go zone.
The powerwas out for the early evening. This is quite common here, on more than a few occasions in these smaller villages there have been power outages in the evenings.
Pedro performed his morning ablutions in a potty in the room. I waited till we got out of town and some open spaces.
I went into town early to get a recharge card for the phone. A tout was on to me wanting to take me to Lalibela and the cliff churches. He was told to leave me alone. These guys are such a pain anywhere in the world.
My blog was updated between 0400 and 0530 over a coffee then it was back to bed. Bed bugs also annoyed me in the night.
We were on the road by 0830 and promptly took the wrong road but were soon back on track.
A usual there was a climb from town. We were both hungry after the big effort yesterday.
So, a stop was made for bread and banas at the top of the climb. The day was spent making small climbs and descents with some rolling country between. A stop was made for injera in a village . Here we spent over an hour chatting with an English speaker. We tried Chat . The leaf they chew here.
I was totally worn out and could have easily fallen asleep.
Back on the road it was the usual calling from kids. A few boys followed us on new Chinese bikes of very questionable quality.
Following one boy, it was noticed his rear wheel was not true. I stopped him to tell him I would try and fix it. Once it was upside down on the road. The problem was due to a broken spoke on the cassette side. Nothing could be done about this.
It was a slow cruise to our destination.
For me it was one of those days when I couldn’t wait just to lie on a bed. At one point just ahead of us a Tuk Tuk pulled over to pick some people up. There were six of them on the side of the road. They just kept disappearing into this tiny vehicle. I wandered up to them and started counting those on board there were 7 people. Talk about sardines!
Thankfully, we soon arrived at the small village of Wigesa. Here Pedro did the honours of checking what turned out to be the only hotel in the town.
The owners were Muslim and very friendly. Pedro came back and said it was ok but dirty. I said how did it rate with last nights affair. He said about the same. We didn’t have many choices so wheeled our bikes into the rear open area.
The rooms were large with concrete floors but it didn’t appear too bad. What there was in uncleanliness, was more than compensated by the fantastic people that owned the place. All the women were out the back making bread. The owners son could speak very good English for his age. He was a great kid (15)
All my road clothes were washed, including the inners of my runners. For me it is just too hot riding in footwear, so it is back to the Keen sandals tomorrow.
Whilst just relaxing in the room some very raw music was heard coming from the courtyard. On inspection, here was this old guy, a thin man with a very warm face and about as much hair as me. He was singing in Ahmaric with much emotion. Accompanying the singing was the sound from a traditional Ethiopian one string instrument, the masinko.
He was serenading me singing about Farangis and saying I was an angel!!
For me it was very moving, his voice was very rich and full of emotion. One of the women started dancing, I gave it my best shot also. Pedro soon came out.
It was a privilege to see this great musician playing.
We ate in the hotel. Pasta with misr and a couple of St Georges.
Earlier a visit was made into the main street. It was funny to be walking and getting all the attention. The people of the village were a very friendly good humoured bunch. A tape measure was borrowed from a store to measure my rim width before ordering the new one from the states.
We were in bed by about 2200, well fed and very relaxed.
Especially after the great shower from a rose that allowed plenty of water to flow, it was even luke warm due to the sun on the roof top tank.
A shave was taken. Tomorrow we plan to ride to Dese for a few days break. From here, there are some high passes to encounter. Oliver posted pics from an altitude of 3400m on the road south from Dese.
For these, we want to be well rested.
14/3/2015 Wirgesa to Dese
D69, T5.39, Av12.39, Max 55, 38,723, 3,755
Slow climb almost all day, fine and warm.
Last night we enjoyed a home cooked pasta and a couple of St Georges. I tried to help Gorgim create a Google account on his phone.
We both had problems with bed bugs. Pedros room was infested, he hardly slept all night and had to set up his airbed on the floor in the middle of the night.
I am beginning to think that bedbugs don’t like biting me and migrate into Pedros room during the middle of the night for some luxury dining.
We enjoyed breakfast of scrambled eggs and their bread for brekky with a coffee. We got a great insight into normal life here in a village in Ethiopia. There was early morning bread making, the coffee ritual, sweeping the dirt floor and the girl that worked here bought her sheep along for the day.
Pedro felt dead on departure due to lack of sleep. I was quite the opposite.
There was a small climb from town and then a great gentle downhill run for 10km or more. We then entered part of the rift valley the scenery was absolutely stunning.
On our right were fields with teepee type stacks of fodder stalks, behind this the fields gently sloped up to the foot of abrupt steep tree clad ranges ranges with the horizontal rock formation.
The road was gently sloping downhill.
It was hot and a magic cloudless sky. Here in this stunning scenery I had goose bumps on my legs and arms, my body was tingling with adrenalin, talk about a natural high.
We rode through this scenery all to quick due to the slope. Down at the river crossing some sugar cane was bought, a foot long stalk is two birr.
The heavier the better, this is an indication of the liquid content.
The sugary sweet liquid inside is a great energy fix.
In the valley oranges also grew.
From here we climb most of the day. On reaching Hayke, Pedro was totally worn out. We found a great restaurant, Pedro could only stomach plain pasta. I treated myself to the local fish from the lake. This was shredded and served in spicy sauce with bread.
Whilst eating beggars from the churches would come along and say a few words. The restaurant staff would give them all the scraps. This is customary on the weekends.
Another older, and very destitute man was wandering around with a blanket over his shoulders. He was wearing nothing else.
We both fell asleep at the restaurant table for a short time. The day was very hot about 1300.
Once moving on we stopped for juice just down the road.
All the rest of the day was spent slowly climbing, it was not till1730 hours could we see Dese in the distance from the top of the range .
It was a cool ride in the shadows down to the large city.
Here Oliver had told us to stay at the Odom Pensions. Other places were checked but all were too expensive or were above bars, which were full of prostitutes.
The Odem had the latter lingering but they were no hassle.
I bought a large Papaya on the way into town and once in the wandered down the road to a guy selling fries. These tasted so good.
Pedro was not to be seen, he went straight to bed. A nice pasta and vegetable dish was enjoyed down the road.
Once down the road, and on my bed, I fell asleep and woke up at midnight by noise outside, quickly unchanged and climbed into my sleeping bag. The climbing most of the day had left us both worn out.
D56, T5, Av13.65, Max 62, 38383, 3469
Strong easterlies then the hills offered some shelter.
Yesterday, my need to have meat was met at the restaurant Lazorea in Me’kele. On offer was goat. It was roasted and lightly spiced.
The restaurant was quite a well to do establishment. There were some Ethiopian business people eating as well. Anyway, half way through my meal a goat was heard squealing from the kitchen. It was on its way to the green paddock in the sky, if such exists!! In order to provide meat for future diners. This month of March is the fasting month so it is difficult to find meat in places other than those upmarket.
We were fit as fiddles after almost 3 days rest. It is so noticeable the difference between people here. Only a kilometre from Me’kele, the carts started and the rural life prevailed. People’s poorness was very apparent. Whilst in the city there were people smartly dressed. Guys with girls wandering the streets like any other city in the world.
We were completely left alone. The difference between those in the cities and those on the land is huge.
Today on the road, some children were following me. Walking towards them, were two teenagers with books. They told these children to stop following me. This difference is also obvious from an education point of view. Many of the rural children don’t attend schools. When their chores are done, they are free to roam. We offer great entertainment for many.
We stopped for lunch in a village, For 20 birr they bought out a little plate each with a scrambled egg and two tiny piles of vegetables. This was ridiculous we told them, and said we would not pay this price.
In the end we just walked off. These were blatant Farangi prices. Back up the road for the same price, we got more than we could almost eat.
Even a couple of English speaking locals boys agreed on the excessive charge.
Pedro and I don’t put up with any overcharging, we both have budgets and now always ask before buying anything from a banana to a bottle of coke.
The road now is quite busy with trucks. Consequently, on the downhill sections the road was very lumpy due to the asphalt creeping under their weight.
At about 1500, we came upon the village of Hewani.
We decided to stop here the night and take on the 25km plus climb tomorrow.
All these hotels are costing us no more than a couple of dollars a night. There is no real reason to camp.
Though, if a good campsite away from people was spotted we would utilize it. These are very rare here.
The rim that was damaged on the bridge is a problem on smooth roads. I can feel the spot that is slightly off round. Though it may , a replacement will be sought somewhere. The Sun Rhinolite rims I use are quite hard to find.
A dinner of pasta was enjoyed next door to the hotel.
This town is like one huge truck stop. There were trucks everywhere. Young boys were cleaning many. Young hookers were on the roadside hailing trucks as they arrived in town. People were fitting new tyres. The owner of the restaurant told us many drivers will leave for Addis at 0300 in the morning. Like us, they are overnighting before heading into the mountains.
10/3/2015 Hewani to Maychew
D73, T7, Av10.63, Max 65, 38455, 3542
Wind funnelling in hills, fine and cool on the tops
The owner of the hotel said we would hear all the trucks leaving about 0300, this we did not.
Once out on the road, again it was a gentle climb. We soon reached and intersection with a left turn. On maps, it was the road the trucks take to avoid the ranges. It was not on my paper map, so must be quite new. Our route through the mountains would be truck free, great!
From here, the scenery was just magic. It was a rural vista with people and animals going about their every day chores. People were weeding young corn, others were using ox to plough rocky paddocks, some were making ox walk in circles over wheat stalks to separate the grain.
The roadside was busy with goats, sheep and cattle wandering ahead of their owners. All this was framed, in a lovely valley of terraced sides. The road took us slowly up through this rich valley. The people were very friendly and not interested in money or pens.
Even the kids were well behaved. They had things to do.
Soon we had to ascend to get out of this valley. It was a 25km climb including the slow ascent in the valley. At the top, the altitude was 3200 metres. The views in the next valley were superb, but as usual very hazy.
It was quite chilly up here. My Icebreaker long sleeved shirt was put on.
The descent was on a switch back road with tight bends so it was braking all the way down.
In the town, we had the best Injera to date. The young owner said it was a new business he was out to impress. He sure did.
It is on the left as you come into town up a few stairs.
We rested here, then decided to continue. Again, we wound around the valley. A stop at a well was made. We topped up on water with the idea of camping, as Maychew was still quite a way.
We soon started another ascent. This took us up through coppiced Eucalypt plantations. I passed Pedro in a village as he was having problems with more kids.
Climbing higher there were fir trees growing. With a full load of water onboard it was hard work.
All the while, I thought Pedro was ahead of me. Asking people, they all indicated they had seen him. People in this area speak Tigre and Amharic. All most all did not understand my English and just agreed.
Suddenly near the tops Pedro came up behind me.
It was a surprise, and good to be together again. It was incredibly cold up here. My raincoat and beany were donned. My runners had been worn all day for a change, in hindsight it was a good decision. We were going to camp at the top. We could see Maychew in the distant valley so decided to head for it. The descent was some 8km.
We finally got into town just on dark and found a great little hotel.
Both of us were tonally trashed. We didn’t even shower, the water was to cold.
Pasta was enjoyed up the road.
Ethiopia telecom is working out very expensive to use the net on our phones. They appear to be operating in an environment with little or no competition.
My damaged rim is holding up which is good news.
My knees were aching into the night after this big day. It is a pain that is bearable, today had been a huge effort. They really are handling things well. This northern route in Ethiopia is hard work but the visual rewards far outweigh the physical effort required.
Seven yearsnago I visited my Orthopaedic surgeon, in Coffs Harbour, Ian Chan. MRI and cat scans showed the knees in a poor state. He indicated that I was too young to have reconstruction. At the end of the consultation, Ian said to me “Do everything to the best of your ability, except no jogging.
This was a piece of great advice, I have been doing just that. The old knees, though they grind at times, are now well supported with strong muscle tissue as protection and support.
Playing tennis due to rapid direction change is difficult and walking down hills is a killer.
11/3/2015 Maychew to Korem (Hotel Desta Milaw)
D43, T3.5, Av12.36, Max 64, 38498, 3585
Fine cool and little wind
Yesterday had been a huge day with two long climbs and long hours. Pedro is still having problems with things biting him. I had a beer and after dinner had promptly fallen asleep. The motels were are staying in see me sleep in my sleeping bag every night. They are a “bring your own padlock” affair to lock the doors. We both have these so it is not a problem.
As usual, there was a climb out of town. The scenery here in the mountains of Ethiopia is one where almost every inch of land is terraced or worked. Only the steepest country is untouched.
With all the Eucalypts about and so much timber used. Interestingly a chainsaw has never been heard. Such is the basic lifestyle here.
At one point going up the hill two guys were seen picked up a rock the size of a folded pillow. The two of them were struggling to pick it up. They then placed on the lower back of a woman who was hunched over. Her hands supported the underside of the boulder and her back took the weight. Unbelievably, she walked across the road with this burden and dropped it on a pile already there.
The eperform so many physical tasks. It is not uncommon to see middle aged and elderly women carrying huge bundles of firewood across their shoulders. They may carry this for a few km.
Pedro and I both agreed by the time they fetch water, get firewood and manually work the paddocks it would be easy to fill in a day.
With this kind of life of manual activities. It is easy to see why so many seek spiritual refuge in the church. It offers a balance of sorts.
The children around this area were becoming a problem, they were following us for long distances and throwing stones on occasions.
We soon came upon Lake Ashenge. It was cradled in a vast gently sloping valley. The green flats alongside the body of water were covered in grazing cattle.
We had the privilege of riding 1km on truly flat road. The scenery was fascinating, once again every inch of land was utilised.
Some teenagers here threw stones at me, always once we pass. I was ahead of Pedro when we caught up he told me the same kids had hit his bike with stones.
These teenagers with little to do are always a problem.
The ride around the lake was most enjoyable. Lots of kids were on their way to school.
Unfortunately many were cheeky. It was groups of girls who were the problem.
Going up a hill past the lake a group of girls followed me, one ripped a water bottle from the bike, it fell on the road.
I gave them a stern earful as I rounded up to get the bottle. They all scattered off the edge of the road into the trees.
Once again, it is great to have company, to be able to discuss these issues and get over them quickly.
One blog read said how difficult it is not to lose ones composure with all this harassment.
Personally, I love riding in the mountain country, hills are hard enough. It is the solitude and time to reflect and dream that makes them a pleasure. Here with all this harassment makes the cycling very hard on steep sections. Often 2 or 3 children will follow us for a few kilometers. There is no space to listen to music, dream or plan. It is just a constant give me money, give me pens.
Once out of all this, we arrived in the village of Korem. Here I bought a stalk of sugar cane. It really is nice to chew on. So sweet, but hard work on ones teeth.
Up the road a bit, we stopped for lunch, now 1400hrs.
There was a deep drain between the road and the restaurant with only a small footbridge, we took the bikes over this and leaned them against the building wall. We were free from crowding kids.
Lunch of Injera and pasta was enjoyed. In this month of fasting all we can buy is Injera and pasta. Meat is only available in the cities.
Up the road we checked a hotel whilst Pedro was inside, at 80 children had gathered around me. Many were students.
Some studied chemistry. We had a guessing game of the chemical formulas for air, salt, copper sulphate etc. Science was one of my favourite subjects at school.
This hotel was a tourist stop, not for us. In town we found a place for 35 burr a night. The afternoon was spent checking the bikes. My Go Pro was remounted on my front rack. I made a phone call to the states to arrange some rims to be sent to Australia. The Sun Ryhinolite can’t be bought there. Oddly enough, there are no importers for this brilliantly strong rim. A 32 holer was ordered. I will rebuild the rear wheel using my existing hub and spokes.
You can order these rims @ [email protected] or tel. 18669959918
Dinner of, you guessed it, pasta was enjoyed next door.
12/3/2015 Korem to Weldiya
D101, T6, Av16.20, Max 66, 38599, 3686
Fine cool and little wind, hot once in the valley.
We both had a good nights sleep. Leaving town was another climb, though gentle, some corners were a bit steep.
Some 3km we were at the top of the range, the view was one that made us feel great. Way off in the distance below us we could see the town of Kepho. Beyond this was a flat road that just disappeared into the haze.
The ride down was brilliant, nice sweeping turns, a few tight, but always getting warmer as we descended.
For the first time I got my Gopro going. It is now mounted on the front rack.
Once down in the busy town, it was incredibly warm. There was a huge wasp nest down here. (tuk tuks). They are always a traffic hazard.
We rode straight through here.
The surrounding valley was very lush with people working in most fields preparing for the coming rains. Paddocks were being ploughed with oxen and people were tending young crops. The road was busy with all the usual carts and donkeys as well as pedestrians by the hundreds.
It was so good to be cruising on flat road. Pedro was up ahead. I was busy posting photos as things happened on Instagram.
We stopped for a bite under a tree and soon had the usual crowd gathered.
On the road now we are both over these kids and teenagers asking for money.
I say to them, have you got money for me and tell them to use please.
Pedro tells them to say welcome not ask for money.
Even though many say Salam at our departure it is always money or pens.
The Ethiopian young seem to have this installed mentality where, someone has told them they are one of the poorest peoples in the world.
They think everyone should give them something.
There needs to be a national education scheme to inform people they maybe materially poor but rich in other ways.
Evens adults will cup their hands or rub their fingers together in gestures for money.
Though many adults don’t. The older people return the greeting Salam to us with a deep felt greeting that can be seen and felt.
It is the teenagers with nothing to do who are the real problem, some are just malicious.
The road kept winding through the valley, still flat. Lunch of meat was enjoyed in a large town. This was a real treat.
Riding on the road took us along the edge of the valley. People here were incredibly friendly and fun to greet.
In this intense sun my ears are getting sunburnt, this has to be watched, my neck warmer is being worn over my head now to cover them.
We had a chance of reaching Wediya if the road stayed flat.
In one particular village there were people all over the road. Two guys were crossing the road when a minivan can around the bend, they scattered, one of them straight into me. He nearly fell over, but was ok. I saw it coming and fended him off with a rigid left elbow still on the handlebars. Both of us were none the worse off.
My google map, set on terrain showed 1 climb out of the valley just before Weldiya.
This road took us up a deep valley and through a tunnel.
By the time we reached the city outskirts it was 0700 and dark. It had been a big day, in which 6 small bottles of coke were consumed along with large amounts of water, some sugar cane had also been chewed whilst waiting for Pedro at the top of one small climb.
A few hotels were checked but to expensive. A nice young med student took us to a non descript place.
It was basic in every sense but suited us. The local power supply was cut just after we settled in.
Pasta and juice were enjoyed across the road. No showers were taken due to there being no water.
My nose has been running for a couple of weeks now. Due to all the dust and other particles in the air.
I feel it is now developing into a light flu infection. We will see.
I have been keeping in touch with Oliver, the Swiss guy and Neil and Sho Sho who are ahead of us. Oliver emailed a list of places he stayed at south of us which is great.
Sho and Neil are nearing the Kenyan border. We are all going to take the Lake Turkana route. So information from them will be great.
13/3/2015 Korem to Wigesa
D55, T3.5, Av14.13, Max 56, 38653, 3741
Fine hot, and little wind. Temp about 27
Awoken by sounds in my room at 0400, a scan with my headlight, revealed an extremely well fed rat investigating my food.
It retreated into a hole in the wall, which was promptly blocked with toilet paper.
This hotel was a rough affair. There was no water and the toilet was for us a no go zone.
The powerwas out for the early evening. This is quite common here, on more than a few occasions in these smaller villages there have been power outages in the evenings.
Pedro performed his morning ablutions in a potty in the room. I waited till we got out of town and some open spaces.
I went into town early to get a recharge card for the phone. A tout was on to me wanting to take me to Lalibela and the cliff churches. He was told to leave me alone. These guys are such a pain anywhere in the world.
My blog was updated between 0400 and 0530 over a coffee then it was back to bed. Bed bugs also annoyed me in the night.
We were on the road by 0830 and promptly took the wrong road but were soon back on track.
A usual there was a climb from town. We were both hungry after the big effort yesterday.
So, a stop was made for bread and banas at the top of the climb. The day was spent making small climbs and descents with some rolling country between. A stop was made for injera in a village . Here we spent over an hour chatting with an English speaker. We tried Chat . The leaf they chew here.
I was totally worn out and could have easily fallen asleep.
Back on the road it was the usual calling from kids. A few boys followed us on new Chinese bikes of very questionable quality.
Following one boy, it was noticed his rear wheel was not true. I stopped him to tell him I would try and fix it. Once it was upside down on the road. The problem was due to a broken spoke on the cassette side. Nothing could be done about this.
It was a slow cruise to our destination.
For me it was one of those days when I couldn’t wait just to lie on a bed. At one point just ahead of us a Tuk Tuk pulled over to pick some people up. There were six of them on the side of the road. They just kept disappearing into this tiny vehicle. I wandered up to them and started counting those on board there were 7 people. Talk about sardines!
Thankfully, we soon arrived at the small village of Wigesa. Here Pedro did the honours of checking what turned out to be the only hotel in the town.
The owners were Muslim and very friendly. Pedro came back and said it was ok but dirty. I said how did it rate with last nights affair. He said about the same. We didn’t have many choices so wheeled our bikes into the rear open area.
The rooms were large with concrete floors but it didn’t appear too bad. What there was in uncleanliness, was more than compensated by the fantastic people that owned the place. All the women were out the back making bread. The owners son could speak very good English for his age. He was a great kid (15)
All my road clothes were washed, including the inners of my runners. For me it is just too hot riding in footwear, so it is back to the Keen sandals tomorrow.
Whilst just relaxing in the room some very raw music was heard coming from the courtyard. On inspection, here was this old guy, a thin man with a very warm face and about as much hair as me. He was singing in Ahmaric with much emotion. Accompanying the singing was the sound from a traditional Ethiopian one string instrument, the masinko.
He was serenading me singing about Farangis and saying I was an angel!!
For me it was very moving, his voice was very rich and full of emotion. One of the women started dancing, I gave it my best shot also. Pedro soon came out.
It was a privilege to see this great musician playing.
We ate in the hotel. Pasta with misr and a couple of St Georges.
Earlier a visit was made into the main street. It was funny to be walking and getting all the attention. The people of the village were a very friendly good humoured bunch. A tape measure was borrowed from a store to measure my rim width before ordering the new one from the states.
We were in bed by about 2200, well fed and very relaxed.
Especially after the great shower from a rose that allowed plenty of water to flow, it was even luke warm due to the sun on the roof top tank.
A shave was taken. Tomorrow we plan to ride to Dese for a few days break. From here, there are some high passes to encounter. Oliver posted pics from an altitude of 3400m on the road south from Dese.
For these, we want to be well rested.
14/3/2015 Wirgesa to Dese
D69, T5.39, Av12.39, Max 55, 38,723, 3,755
Slow climb almost all day, fine and warm.
Last night we enjoyed a home cooked pasta and a couple of St Georges. I tried to help Gorgim create a Google account on his phone.
We both had problems with bed bugs. Pedros room was infested, he hardly slept all night and had to set up his airbed on the floor in the middle of the night.
I am beginning to think that bedbugs don’t like biting me and migrate into Pedros room during the middle of the night for some luxury dining.
We enjoyed breakfast of scrambled eggs and their bread for brekky with a coffee. We got a great insight into normal life here in a village in Ethiopia. There was early morning bread making, the coffee ritual, sweeping the dirt floor and the girl that worked here bought her sheep along for the day.
Pedro felt dead on departure due to lack of sleep. I was quite the opposite.
There was a small climb from town and then a great gentle downhill run for 10km or more. We then entered part of the rift valley the scenery was absolutely stunning.
On our right were fields with teepee type stacks of fodder stalks, behind this the fields gently sloped up to the foot of abrupt steep tree clad ranges ranges with the horizontal rock formation.
The road was gently sloping downhill.
It was hot and a magic cloudless sky. Here in this stunning scenery I had goose bumps on my legs and arms, my body was tingling with adrenalin, talk about a natural high.
We rode through this scenery all to quick due to the slope. Down at the river crossing some sugar cane was bought, a foot long stalk is two birr.
The heavier the better, this is an indication of the liquid content.
The sugary sweet liquid inside is a great energy fix.
In the valley oranges also grew.
From here we climb most of the day. On reaching Hayke, Pedro was totally worn out. We found a great restaurant, Pedro could only stomach plain pasta. I treated myself to the local fish from the lake. This was shredded and served in spicy sauce with bread.
Whilst eating beggars from the churches would come along and say a few words. The restaurant staff would give them all the scraps. This is customary on the weekends.
Another older, and very destitute man was wandering around with a blanket over his shoulders. He was wearing nothing else.
We both fell asleep at the restaurant table for a short time. The day was very hot about 1300.
Once moving on we stopped for juice just down the road.
All the rest of the day was spent slowly climbing, it was not till1730 hours could we see Dese in the distance from the top of the range .
It was a cool ride in the shadows down to the large city.
Here Oliver had told us to stay at the Odom Pensions. Other places were checked but all were too expensive or were above bars, which were full of prostitutes.
The Odem had the latter lingering but they were no hassle.
I bought a large Papaya on the way into town and once in the wandered down the road to a guy selling fries. These tasted so good.
Pedro was not to be seen, he went straight to bed. A nice pasta and vegetable dish was enjoyed down the road.
Once down the road, and on my bed, I fell asleep and woke up at midnight by noise outside, quickly unchanged and climbed into my sleeping bag. The climbing most of the day had left us both worn out.
On the road to Dese. This scenery, left me astounded. The manual human endeavours in the vistas just added to the scene.
Water, and the provision of it at ones house is such an important task here. Often performed near the end of the day in the coolness
The guys were fun to ride with for awhile.
many cafes and restaurants lay grass on the floors of their dining areas.
It is traditional in coffee shops and for festivities.
Always all sorts of company at the back of hotels.
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Congos, the national sandal, worn by many in rural areas, proudly made in Ethiopia. they cost about $2
There are always stock on the road but all are road smart.
Even the sheep seek shelter from the hot sun.
on top of the world here in Ethiopia
Pedro made a break from this crew of school children in pursuit.
Life on the road here in Ethiopia is much easier with two riders.
The bikes can be watched while one of us inspect a hotel among many other advantages.
Ethiopia is home to the red hot poker plant. Kniphofia spp.
Typical rural house in the rocky hill country. Near Mekele
Repairs to our bikes at a heavy machinery workshop on the way into Mekele
