8/1/2015 Giza to Beni Suef
The night had been spent on the lounge, Ramid and I listened to music till late, he enjoyed the music from one of my favourite bands, B-tribe.
Rami and I headed down for coffee at the local Shisha place at 0730.
He had invited me to his sisters wedding in few days times, really, my mind was geared up to getting on the road south.
We wished each other all the best, he is off to Switzerland to see his wife and son in a week or two.
Having spent this time with these guys, my disposition here is much more relaxed.
My route took me down a secondary road west of the main road. This was riding pleasure. It was so good to be away from people, to get some air fresher than Cairo. Though, many people were burning plastic and anything else that would support a flame.
Most towns passed through were rural in nature. The people were very inquisitive. In one particular place, upon stopping to buy some mandarins, it was not long before thirty people were all around me. Some knew bits of English, me, I knew two words of Arabic: hello and thank you.
At times, people asked me to hang on to their three wheel cargo bikes this was gladly done, though as they increased speed I let go and bade them good bye.
The mandarins here are the old type that don’t present to well, they have really loose skins, they are so sweet and at 20c a kilo, they have become a fruit stall favourite along with bananas.
There are large amounts are rubbish scattered all along the roads. This road follows a canal which supports fisherman, people washing dishes and most importantly irrigation.
Herders let their sheep feed on the rubbish, sheep were seen pulling at plastic bags, maybe a carrot top could be inside! Or some cardboard.
All the available land on both sides of the road and beyond the canal are intensively cropped. Much land is devoted to the growing of feed for the many donkeys and horses people use for transport. The small donkeys were seen carrying all sorts of loads from huge men, corn stalks and of course the cut pasture for themselves.
Many people were yelling welcome to Egypt. Many asked where I was from. It was a pleasure riding along greeting people and being greeted.
As I am traveling on a NZ passport. I have chosen, to firstly say “I am a New Zealander”. In the interests of self preservation.
If people want to know more, I go on to tell them I live in Australia. My adopted homeland. (I also hold an Australian passport)
I have chosen to do this because of Australia’s previously high profile involvement in successfully helping to destroy Iraq and in doing so, disrupting and ruining millions of people’s lives in this part of the world.
“For every action, there is an opposite and equal reaction”.
I feel privileged to have this option.
While on this topic, I feel that our earlier Prime Minister, John Howards decision to participate in Iraq with the UK and the USA, has irrevocably changed Australia forever.
I feel he squandered an opportunity for our country to become a peace broker along with NZ.
This commitment will ultimately, suck billions of dollars of funds away from more worthwhile peaceful expenditure at home. This will inturn, put a huge burden on the few tax payers in Australia. IS only exists because of the vacuum left by our fruitless pursuits here in the Middle East.
Our government would never admit to cut funding to health and education to pay for weapons and deployment of troops and hardware to the other side of the world.
His policy is now water under the bridge, future generations will have endure its flow.
Often, asking people directions here, they will ask where am I from. “NZ”, is my reply, they literally say “oh, that is ok” and do their best to direct me.
I read one blog where two American guys were told by a local, to tell people they were from Canada.
At one place, whilst stopping for tea, a local guy asked the same question, we talked more, I told him I live in OZ. He looked at me and said “Australia and New Zealand.” Then, rattled his tongue behind his front teeth and motioned to holding a machine gun.
I laughed and said “No”!! He was fine. We have people living in our countries with exactly the same attitude. It takes all sorts.
From here, the canal was crossed, the dirt track took me to the main road south. It was a dual carriageway.
Lunch was had at El Wasta.
The relative peacefulness disappeared. On three occasions, I was persued by incredibly vicious dogs. One group guarded a wide property frontage, my breath was in short supply when they gave up pursuit. Caution had to be taken, as my right foot was slowly slipped out of the power grip, so as not to let the dog think I was going to kick him. If he was biting me, my foot could be easily raised.
The skills required to cope with dogs in persuit, were thankfully acquired and honed in Peru!
Further down the road a bunch of teenagers started chasing me after I waved to them, this was a bit scary. All my energy was put into out pacing them. This was done fairly easily. One lad was sure he could catch me, a shot of adrenalin in my system, saw him fall back after twenty metres.
Then further on, a group of guys, in their mid to late, motioned to chasing me, this scared me as they were radiating fairly menacing expressions. My speed increased rapidly.
Both incidents would have probably ended in nothing had they caught me. Keeping the right attitude is becoming more and more important here for me. Afterall, I am a visitor in their country, they are free to behave as they choose here.
There were always people on donkeys on the roadside and carts were also being pulled by the latter.
Light rain fell at times and it was uncomfortably cold with the overcast sky blocking the sun. I was told it is unusually cold.
Neoprene diving gloves bought in French Guiana have been saviours so far. My riding attire to combat the cold consists of an Ice Breaker tee shirt, beany, neck warmer, x trainer shoes, Ice Breaker socks, IB boxers, the gloves, stretch rock climbing long pants and a Marmot raincoat.
Among all these incidents there were of course many heart warming gestures made.
Throughout all this great respect had to be taken when taking photos of most things.
I had to get to Beni Suef, it appears the small towns do not have hotels.
It was going to be a late finish, finally the city was reached about 1630, it gets dark at 1730. The first hotel would not let me put the bike in the room, the second had similar dislikes. Finally, just on dark the Hotel Bakry, just off the square was found, taking the bike up 3 flights of stairs was hard work, the owners son helped me.
The room was luxury, with scolding hot water, infact, it was dangerous. Once the temperature was finally adjusted, a ridiculously long shower was had in the revitalising hot downpour.
A visit to the street was made, there was a street march. Next thing at least 6 police pickup trucks came flying around the corner, men were standing on the rear foot plates, they were brandishing machine guns and tear gas launchers. It was unreal. Once the protesters neared the square, they let of heaps of fireworks. This is where all hell broke loose, there were shots being fired and the white smoke of tear gas everywhere. The crowd in the street with me amongst them pushed forward, then panicked and we all scattered in retreat.
I was with some locals that could speak some English. They said it is a regular occurrence. The revolution in 2011 was successful, but it did not bear a leader.
So now, the government is reverting back to Mubaraks autocratic ways. Mubarak also got released from prison recently.
Next thing we knew were, our eyes stinging and throats feeling odd, all the tear gas was drifting down the street, we retreated to the safety of the hotel.
All this ended as quickly as it started. Half an hour later life was back to normal, except the police would come round with all their sirens blazing, toting guns, just to assure citizens it was under control.
I had my backpack repaired, bought honey and found some porridge.
Pasta and tuna was cooked in the room.
My knees felt the best they have been since Trinidad, I am so thankful.
Just a few words about the bike and some gear. Firstly, I would like to thank Tubus of Germany for providing me with two new racks at no cost, and Exped of Switzerland for replacing my Downmat 7. Eating, sleeping and riding are my three main activities again. Both products are essential.
I have new Keen sandals, the others were still together after 3 years but their possible failure later on could not be risked.
A new Rhinolite front wheel has been fitted, and a new Schwabe Mondial tyre fitted.
A new pump was also bought.
Thanks for bringing this stuff to Nic from the UK, Pete.
Beni Suef El Minya
D96, T5, Av19.29, Max29, 35107, 232
13°C, windy, from the NW, patchy
A great sleep was enjoyed beneath heavy Bedouin type blankets. Porridge and coffee were enjoyed.
A big ride was required, the streets were quiet at 0700. The square had been blocked by barriers on the roads that entered it.
Finding the main road, a brisk pace was set. Even this morning, my legs were in better shape, my knees were not nearly as painful as in Nic. This is very comforting.
The day was just as cold as any other. An early lunch was had at Biba. At a roadside stall selling Arabic bread with a tomato salad and Kushari, a good carb fix.
At about the 45km, I passed my first police checkpoint. The guys here were friendly and just let me pass after seeing my passport.
This was great, no problems.
Other cyclists, take the western desert road or the Red Sea route to avoid this problem with police in the Nile Valley.
Today, whilst riding, I kept to myself a lot more, not greeting as many people. I feel my enthusiasm yesterday got a few people excited. Only those in close quarters were greeted, this seemed to work alot better.
Further up on the road near El Fasn, there was a hold up. This was a large police checkpoint with offices and staff checking cars and trucks as they passed.
I was immediately hailed off the road. Here they asked me where I was going and where I was from, my passport was handed over.
They gave me tea and conveyed I had to wait. After half an hour or more, an officer who knew some English told me I was going to get a lift in a pickup truck to Samalut.
Soon we loaded the bike into the vehicle. I sat in the back with two officers.
Both had old machine guns and both were very friendly.
In some ways, this was a timely event. It was discovered that many of the small towns don’t have hotels. I had planned on only riding to Mattai. The officer told me there were no hotels there.
They were going to take me to El Minya, a total trip of 140km, really out of comfortable reach in a day.
So, we headed off. We were talking and laughing much of the way there. Thanks to Google translate on my phone.
On arrival at Samalut they stopped and let me out. Two other offers turned up in a car. These guys followed me all the 34 km to El Minya. A good tail wind was blowing so my speed was around 22km., so they were happy just hanging 20m behind me.
I couldn’t stop to take photos, only to have a leak and take an energy gel.
Once in El Minya, they guided me to the Hotel Lotus.
Here we said goodbye, I thanked them. An officer was posted in the lobby with my bike for the night, all my gear went up to the room.
While I think about rooms, in Beni Suef the other night, someone stole my chair off the back of the bike while I was upstairs at reception. Hotels with 1st floor rooms are always a problem.
Arrangements had been made to meet the police here in the morning at 0800. They were going to take me all the way to Asyut.
The officer wanted to walk with me to town, this I told him was not necessary. He dropped the idea, thankfully.
10/1/2015 El Minya to Asyut
Riding distance 5km
In police vehicles 140km
By the time the lobby was entered from the lift at 0745, there were police waiting for me.
The bike and gear were put in the back of the wagon.
Three officers joined me. Off we went, this was great because the 140km to Asyut was not really on for me.
We drove to Mallawi and then the next crew came to pick me up.
They were only running me to the southern extremity of their respective precincts.
The same happened in Dairut and again in El Qusiya.
Some vehicles were dual cabs, so I was in the back seat.
In all cases these guys were great company and good humoured, infact, even though we had language difficulties we found much to laugh at.
Again, the translator was a huge help. I was showing them photos of South America and here in Egypt.
They were armed and carried bulletproof vests. I was given tea at the change overs and chatted with all the officers, at times a dozen were grouped around on the road at the boundary police stations.
This road and the activities conducted along it give one an idea of the gift that the Nile is to Egypt. For the last 3 days, the immediate country side has been a rich geen from all sorts of crops.
Without the Nile, Egypt would literally be a desert. The life this valley supports is quite incredible, especially when light brown sandy bluffs are seen as the backdrop not far away in many places. Beyond these, life is in the desert.
Soon we got to another police checkpoint at the fringes of Asyut, here we stopped. An hour went by. Not even slightly perturbed. It was just enjoyable standing right alongside the police randomly checking cars.
All sorts of people were travelling. Most vehicles were at least 5 to 10 years old. The many types of clothing people wore was intriguing in itself.
Soon the guys told me to get my gear from the pickup. Some other officers in a car were going to guide me through town to a 2 star hotel.
The bike was loaded, I was to follow them.
This was something never experienced before, like most things since arriving in Egypt.
They were using their sirens on and off the whole way. Someone would just get in their way and on would come one of a variety of sounds they had.
In the centre of town in slow moving heavy traffic, people were talking to me from other cars. I said hi and motioned, yeah I’m with them, they laughed.
It really was quite surreal, being given this kind of service right to the hotel door. Finding this place would have been almost impossible.
It is the Alhussin Hotel, can’t tell you where in town, but asking will get you here should you ever be in Asyut in the Nile valley.
I thanked the guys, they did not arrange to meet tomorrow. I couldn’t believe it, I was free to ride alone. Yeah!! The first checkpoint tomorrow will confirm this or not??
These policemen, down to the last one had been so good to me the whole way, they were friendly and helpful and never once motioned for money.
They were careful with my bike and never once hurried me as I helped move it from one vehicle to another. They were patient as the panniers and all gear were attached to the bike.
Some Arabic lessons were even had on route, can’t remember much of it!
Their intention was to see I got safely to Asyut. My thanks goes to all these guys.
It was an experience not to be forgotten.
The night had been spent on the lounge, Ramid and I listened to music till late, he enjoyed the music from one of my favourite bands, B-tribe.
Rami and I headed down for coffee at the local Shisha place at 0730.
He had invited me to his sisters wedding in few days times, really, my mind was geared up to getting on the road south.
We wished each other all the best, he is off to Switzerland to see his wife and son in a week or two.
Having spent this time with these guys, my disposition here is much more relaxed.
My route took me down a secondary road west of the main road. This was riding pleasure. It was so good to be away from people, to get some air fresher than Cairo. Though, many people were burning plastic and anything else that would support a flame.
Most towns passed through were rural in nature. The people were very inquisitive. In one particular place, upon stopping to buy some mandarins, it was not long before thirty people were all around me. Some knew bits of English, me, I knew two words of Arabic: hello and thank you.
At times, people asked me to hang on to their three wheel cargo bikes this was gladly done, though as they increased speed I let go and bade them good bye.
The mandarins here are the old type that don’t present to well, they have really loose skins, they are so sweet and at 20c a kilo, they have become a fruit stall favourite along with bananas.
There are large amounts are rubbish scattered all along the roads. This road follows a canal which supports fisherman, people washing dishes and most importantly irrigation.
Herders let their sheep feed on the rubbish, sheep were seen pulling at plastic bags, maybe a carrot top could be inside! Or some cardboard.
All the available land on both sides of the road and beyond the canal are intensively cropped. Much land is devoted to the growing of feed for the many donkeys and horses people use for transport. The small donkeys were seen carrying all sorts of loads from huge men, corn stalks and of course the cut pasture for themselves.
Many people were yelling welcome to Egypt. Many asked where I was from. It was a pleasure riding along greeting people and being greeted.
As I am traveling on a NZ passport. I have chosen, to firstly say “I am a New Zealander”. In the interests of self preservation.
If people want to know more, I go on to tell them I live in Australia. My adopted homeland. (I also hold an Australian passport)
I have chosen to do this because of Australia’s previously high profile involvement in successfully helping to destroy Iraq and in doing so, disrupting and ruining millions of people’s lives in this part of the world.
“For every action, there is an opposite and equal reaction”.
I feel privileged to have this option.
While on this topic, I feel that our earlier Prime Minister, John Howards decision to participate in Iraq with the UK and the USA, has irrevocably changed Australia forever.
I feel he squandered an opportunity for our country to become a peace broker along with NZ.
This commitment will ultimately, suck billions of dollars of funds away from more worthwhile peaceful expenditure at home. This will inturn, put a huge burden on the few tax payers in Australia. IS only exists because of the vacuum left by our fruitless pursuits here in the Middle East.
Our government would never admit to cut funding to health and education to pay for weapons and deployment of troops and hardware to the other side of the world.
His policy is now water under the bridge, future generations will have endure its flow.
Often, asking people directions here, they will ask where am I from. “NZ”, is my reply, they literally say “oh, that is ok” and do their best to direct me.
I read one blog where two American guys were told by a local, to tell people they were from Canada.
At one place, whilst stopping for tea, a local guy asked the same question, we talked more, I told him I live in OZ. He looked at me and said “Australia and New Zealand.” Then, rattled his tongue behind his front teeth and motioned to holding a machine gun.
I laughed and said “No”!! He was fine. We have people living in our countries with exactly the same attitude. It takes all sorts.
From here, the canal was crossed, the dirt track took me to the main road south. It was a dual carriageway.
Lunch was had at El Wasta.
The relative peacefulness disappeared. On three occasions, I was persued by incredibly vicious dogs. One group guarded a wide property frontage, my breath was in short supply when they gave up pursuit. Caution had to be taken, as my right foot was slowly slipped out of the power grip, so as not to let the dog think I was going to kick him. If he was biting me, my foot could be easily raised.
The skills required to cope with dogs in persuit, were thankfully acquired and honed in Peru!
Further down the road a bunch of teenagers started chasing me after I waved to them, this was a bit scary. All my energy was put into out pacing them. This was done fairly easily. One lad was sure he could catch me, a shot of adrenalin in my system, saw him fall back after twenty metres.
Then further on, a group of guys, in their mid to late, motioned to chasing me, this scared me as they were radiating fairly menacing expressions. My speed increased rapidly.
Both incidents would have probably ended in nothing had they caught me. Keeping the right attitude is becoming more and more important here for me. Afterall, I am a visitor in their country, they are free to behave as they choose here.
There were always people on donkeys on the roadside and carts were also being pulled by the latter.
Light rain fell at times and it was uncomfortably cold with the overcast sky blocking the sun. I was told it is unusually cold.
Neoprene diving gloves bought in French Guiana have been saviours so far. My riding attire to combat the cold consists of an Ice Breaker tee shirt, beany, neck warmer, x trainer shoes, Ice Breaker socks, IB boxers, the gloves, stretch rock climbing long pants and a Marmot raincoat.
Among all these incidents there were of course many heart warming gestures made.
Throughout all this great respect had to be taken when taking photos of most things.
I had to get to Beni Suef, it appears the small towns do not have hotels.
It was going to be a late finish, finally the city was reached about 1630, it gets dark at 1730. The first hotel would not let me put the bike in the room, the second had similar dislikes. Finally, just on dark the Hotel Bakry, just off the square was found, taking the bike up 3 flights of stairs was hard work, the owners son helped me.
The room was luxury, with scolding hot water, infact, it was dangerous. Once the temperature was finally adjusted, a ridiculously long shower was had in the revitalising hot downpour.
A visit to the street was made, there was a street march. Next thing at least 6 police pickup trucks came flying around the corner, men were standing on the rear foot plates, they were brandishing machine guns and tear gas launchers. It was unreal. Once the protesters neared the square, they let of heaps of fireworks. This is where all hell broke loose, there were shots being fired and the white smoke of tear gas everywhere. The crowd in the street with me amongst them pushed forward, then panicked and we all scattered in retreat.
I was with some locals that could speak some English. They said it is a regular occurrence. The revolution in 2011 was successful, but it did not bear a leader.
So now, the government is reverting back to Mubaraks autocratic ways. Mubarak also got released from prison recently.
Next thing we knew were, our eyes stinging and throats feeling odd, all the tear gas was drifting down the street, we retreated to the safety of the hotel.
All this ended as quickly as it started. Half an hour later life was back to normal, except the police would come round with all their sirens blazing, toting guns, just to assure citizens it was under control.
I had my backpack repaired, bought honey and found some porridge.
Pasta and tuna was cooked in the room.
My knees felt the best they have been since Trinidad, I am so thankful.
Just a few words about the bike and some gear. Firstly, I would like to thank Tubus of Germany for providing me with two new racks at no cost, and Exped of Switzerland for replacing my Downmat 7. Eating, sleeping and riding are my three main activities again. Both products are essential.
I have new Keen sandals, the others were still together after 3 years but their possible failure later on could not be risked.
A new Rhinolite front wheel has been fitted, and a new Schwabe Mondial tyre fitted.
A new pump was also bought.
Thanks for bringing this stuff to Nic from the UK, Pete.
Beni Suef El Minya
D96, T5, Av19.29, Max29, 35107, 232
13°C, windy, from the NW, patchy
A great sleep was enjoyed beneath heavy Bedouin type blankets. Porridge and coffee were enjoyed.
A big ride was required, the streets were quiet at 0700. The square had been blocked by barriers on the roads that entered it.
Finding the main road, a brisk pace was set. Even this morning, my legs were in better shape, my knees were not nearly as painful as in Nic. This is very comforting.
The day was just as cold as any other. An early lunch was had at Biba. At a roadside stall selling Arabic bread with a tomato salad and Kushari, a good carb fix.
At about the 45km, I passed my first police checkpoint. The guys here were friendly and just let me pass after seeing my passport.
This was great, no problems.
Other cyclists, take the western desert road or the Red Sea route to avoid this problem with police in the Nile Valley.
Today, whilst riding, I kept to myself a lot more, not greeting as many people. I feel my enthusiasm yesterday got a few people excited. Only those in close quarters were greeted, this seemed to work alot better.
Further up on the road near El Fasn, there was a hold up. This was a large police checkpoint with offices and staff checking cars and trucks as they passed.
I was immediately hailed off the road. Here they asked me where I was going and where I was from, my passport was handed over.
They gave me tea and conveyed I had to wait. After half an hour or more, an officer who knew some English told me I was going to get a lift in a pickup truck to Samalut.
Soon we loaded the bike into the vehicle. I sat in the back with two officers.
Both had old machine guns and both were very friendly.
In some ways, this was a timely event. It was discovered that many of the small towns don’t have hotels. I had planned on only riding to Mattai. The officer told me there were no hotels there.
They were going to take me to El Minya, a total trip of 140km, really out of comfortable reach in a day.
So, we headed off. We were talking and laughing much of the way there. Thanks to Google translate on my phone.
On arrival at Samalut they stopped and let me out. Two other offers turned up in a car. These guys followed me all the 34 km to El Minya. A good tail wind was blowing so my speed was around 22km., so they were happy just hanging 20m behind me.
I couldn’t stop to take photos, only to have a leak and take an energy gel.
Once in El Minya, they guided me to the Hotel Lotus.
Here we said goodbye, I thanked them. An officer was posted in the lobby with my bike for the night, all my gear went up to the room.
While I think about rooms, in Beni Suef the other night, someone stole my chair off the back of the bike while I was upstairs at reception. Hotels with 1st floor rooms are always a problem.
Arrangements had been made to meet the police here in the morning at 0800. They were going to take me all the way to Asyut.
The officer wanted to walk with me to town, this I told him was not necessary. He dropped the idea, thankfully.
10/1/2015 El Minya to Asyut
Riding distance 5km
In police vehicles 140km
By the time the lobby was entered from the lift at 0745, there were police waiting for me.
The bike and gear were put in the back of the wagon.
Three officers joined me. Off we went, this was great because the 140km to Asyut was not really on for me.
We drove to Mallawi and then the next crew came to pick me up.
They were only running me to the southern extremity of their respective precincts.
The same happened in Dairut and again in El Qusiya.
Some vehicles were dual cabs, so I was in the back seat.
In all cases these guys were great company and good humoured, infact, even though we had language difficulties we found much to laugh at.
Again, the translator was a huge help. I was showing them photos of South America and here in Egypt.
They were armed and carried bulletproof vests. I was given tea at the change overs and chatted with all the officers, at times a dozen were grouped around on the road at the boundary police stations.
This road and the activities conducted along it give one an idea of the gift that the Nile is to Egypt. For the last 3 days, the immediate country side has been a rich geen from all sorts of crops.
Without the Nile, Egypt would literally be a desert. The life this valley supports is quite incredible, especially when light brown sandy bluffs are seen as the backdrop not far away in many places. Beyond these, life is in the desert.
Soon we got to another police checkpoint at the fringes of Asyut, here we stopped. An hour went by. Not even slightly perturbed. It was just enjoyable standing right alongside the police randomly checking cars.
All sorts of people were travelling. Most vehicles were at least 5 to 10 years old. The many types of clothing people wore was intriguing in itself.
Soon the guys told me to get my gear from the pickup. Some other officers in a car were going to guide me through town to a 2 star hotel.
The bike was loaded, I was to follow them.
This was something never experienced before, like most things since arriving in Egypt.
They were using their sirens on and off the whole way. Someone would just get in their way and on would come one of a variety of sounds they had.
In the centre of town in slow moving heavy traffic, people were talking to me from other cars. I said hi and motioned, yeah I’m with them, they laughed.
It really was quite surreal, being given this kind of service right to the hotel door. Finding this place would have been almost impossible.
It is the Alhussin Hotel, can’t tell you where in town, but asking will get you here should you ever be in Asyut in the Nile valley.
I thanked the guys, they did not arrange to meet tomorrow. I couldn’t believe it, I was free to ride alone. Yeah!! The first checkpoint tomorrow will confirm this or not??
These policemen, down to the last one had been so good to me the whole way, they were friendly and helpful and never once motioned for money.
They were careful with my bike and never once hurried me as I helped move it from one vehicle to another. They were patient as the panniers and all gear were attached to the bike.
Some Arabic lessons were even had on route, can’t remember much of it!
Their intention was to see I got safely to Asyut. My thanks goes to all these guys.
It was an experience not to be forgotten.