browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
8/1/2015 Giza to Beni Suef

The night had been spent on the lounge, Ramid and I listened to music till late, he enjoyed the music from one of my favourite bands, B-tribe.

Rami and I headed down for coffee at the local Shisha place at 0730.

He had invited me to his sisters wedding in few days times, really, my mind was geared up to getting on the road south.

We wished each other all the best, he is off to Switzerland to see his wife and son in a week or two.

Having spent this time with these guys, my disposition here is much more relaxed.

My route took me down a secondary road west of the main road. This was riding pleasure. It was so good to be away from people, to get some air fresher than Cairo. Though, many people were burning plastic and anything else that would support a flame.

Most towns passed through were rural in nature. The people were very inquisitive. In one particular place, upon stopping to buy some mandarins, it was not long before thirty people were all around me. Some knew bits of English, me, I knew two words of Arabic: hello and thank you.

At times, people asked me to hang on to their three wheel cargo bikes this was gladly done, though as they increased speed I let go and bade them good bye.  

The mandarins here are the old type that don’t present to well, they have really loose skins, they are so sweet and at 20c a kilo, they have become a fruit stall favourite along with bananas.

There are large amounts are rubbish scattered all along the roads. This road follows a canal which supports fisherman, people washing dishes and most importantly irrigation.

Herders let their sheep feed on the rubbish, sheep were seen pulling at plastic bags, maybe a carrot top could be inside! Or some cardboard.

All the available land on both sides of the road and beyond the canal are intensively cropped. Much land is devoted to the growing of feed for the many donkeys and horses people use for transport. The small donkeys were seen carrying all sorts of loads from huge men, corn stalks and of course the cut pasture for themselves.

Many people were yelling welcome to Egypt. Many asked where I was from. It was a pleasure riding along greeting people and being greeted.

As I am traveling on a NZ passport. I have chosen, to firstly say “I am a New Zealander”. In the interests of self preservation.
If people want to know more, I go on to  tell them I live in Australia. My adopted homeland. (I also hold an Australian passport)

I have chosen to do this because of Australia’s previously high profile involvement in successfully helping to destroy Iraq and in doing so, disrupting and ruining  millions of people’s lives in this part of the world.

“For every action, there is an opposite and equal reaction”.

I feel privileged to have this option.

While on this topic, I feel that our earlier Prime Minister, John Howards decision to participate in Iraq with the UK and the USA, has irrevocably changed Australia forever.

I feel he squandered an opportunity for our country to become a peace broker along with NZ.

This commitment will ultimately, suck billions of dollars of funds away from more worthwhile peaceful expenditure at home. This will inturn, put a huge burden on the few tax payers in Australia. IS only exists because of the vacuum left by our fruitless pursuits here in the Middle East.

Our government would never admit to cut funding to health and education to pay for weapons and deployment of troops and hardware to the other side of the world.

His policy is now water under the bridge, future generations will have endure its flow.

Often, asking people directions here, they will ask where am I from. “NZ”, is my reply, they literally say “oh, that is ok” and do their best to direct me.

I read one blog where two American guys were told by a local, to tell people they were from Canada.

At one place, whilst stopping for tea, a local guy asked the same question, we talked more, I told him I live in OZ. He looked at me and said “Australia and New Zealand.” Then, rattled his tongue behind his front teeth and motioned to holding a machine gun.

I laughed and said “No”!! He was fine. We have people living in our countries with exactly the same attitude. It takes all sorts.

From here, the canal was crossed, the dirt track took me to the main road south. It was a dual carriageway.

Lunch was had at El Wasta.

The relative peacefulness disappeared. On three occasions, I was persued by incredibly vicious dogs. One group guarded  a wide property frontage, my breath was in short supply when they gave up pursuit. Caution had to be taken, as my right foot was slowly slipped out of the power grip, so as not to let the dog think I was going to kick him. If he was biting me, my foot could be easily raised.

The skills required to cope with dogs in persuit, were thankfully acquired and honed  in Peru!

Further down the road a bunch of teenagers started chasing me after I waved to them, this was a bit scary. All my energy was put into out pacing them. This was done fairly easily. One lad was sure he could catch me, a shot of adrenalin in my system, saw him fall back after twenty metres.

Then further on, a group of guys, in their mid to late, motioned to chasing me, this scared me as they were radiating fairly menacing expressions. My speed increased rapidly.

Both incidents would have probably ended in nothing had they caught me. Keeping the right attitude is becoming more and more important here for me. Afterall, I am a visitor in their country, they are free to behave as they choose here.

There were always people on donkeys on the roadside and carts were also being pulled by the latter.

Light rain fell at times and it was uncomfortably cold with the overcast sky blocking the sun. I was told it is unusually cold.

Neoprene diving gloves bought in French Guiana have been saviours so far. My riding attire to combat the cold consists of an Ice Breaker tee shirt, beany, neck warmer, x trainer shoes, Ice Breaker socks, IB boxers, the gloves, stretch rock climbing long pants and a Marmot raincoat.

Among all these incidents there were of course many heart warming gestures made.

Throughout all this great respect had to be taken when taking photos of most things.

I had to get to Beni Suef, it appears the small towns do not have hotels.

It was going to be a late finish, finally the city was reached about 1630, it gets dark at 1730. The first hotel would not let me put the bike in the room, the second had similar dislikes. Finally, just on dark the Hotel Bakry, just off the square was found, taking the bike up 3 flights of stairs was hard work, the owners son helped me.

The room was luxury, with scolding hot water, infact, it was dangerous. Once the temperature was finally adjusted, a ridiculously long shower was had in the revitalising hot downpour.

A visit to the street was made, there was a street march. Next thing at least 6 police pickup trucks came flying around the corner, men were standing on the rear foot plates, they were brandishing machine guns and tear gas launchers. It was unreal. Once the protesters neared the square, they let of heaps of fireworks. This is where all hell broke loose, there were shots being fired and the white smoke of tear gas everywhere. The crowd in the street with me amongst them pushed forward, then panicked and we all scattered in retreat.

I was with some locals that could speak some English. They said it is a regular occurrence. The revolution in 2011 was successful, but it did not bear a leader.

So now, the government is reverting back to  Mubaraks autocratic ways. Mubarak also got released from prison recently.

Next thing we knew were, our eyes stinging and throats feeling odd, all the tear gas was drifting down the street, we retreated to the safety of the hotel.

All this ended as quickly as it started. Half an hour later life was back to normal, except the police would come round with all their sirens blazing, toting guns, just to assure citizens it was under control.

I had my backpack repaired, bought honey and found some porridge.

Pasta and tuna was cooked in the room.

My knees felt the best they have been since Trinidad, I am so thankful.

Just a few words about the bike and some gear. Firstly, I would like to thank Tubus of Germany for providing me with two new racks at no cost, and Exped of Switzerland for replacing my Downmat 7. Eating, sleeping and riding are my three main activities again. Both products are essential.

I have new Keen sandals, the others were still together after 3 years but their possible failure later on could not be risked.

A new Rhinolite front wheel has been fitted, and a new Schwabe Mondial tyre fitted.

A new pump was also bought.

Thanks for bringing this stuff to Nic from the UK, Pete.    

Beni Suef El Minya

D96, T5, Av19.29, Max29, 35107, 232

13°C, windy, from the NW, patchy

A great sleep was enjoyed beneath heavy Bedouin type blankets. Porridge and coffee were enjoyed.

A big ride was required, the streets were quiet at 0700. The square had been blocked by barriers on the roads that entered it.

Finding the main road, a brisk pace was set. Even this morning, my legs were in better shape, my knees were not nearly as painful as in Nic. This is very comforting.

The day was just as cold as any other. An early lunch was had at Biba. At a roadside stall selling Arabic bread with a tomato salad and Kushari, a good carb fix.

At about the 45km, I passed my first police checkpoint. The guys here were friendly and just let me pass after seeing my passport.

This was great, no problems.

Other cyclists, take the western desert road or the Red Sea route to avoid this problem with police in the Nile Valley.

Today, whilst riding, I kept to myself a lot more, not greeting as many people. I feel my enthusiasm yesterday got a few people excited. Only those in close quarters were greeted, this seemed to work alot better.

Further up on the road near El Fasn, there was a hold up. This was a large police checkpoint with offices and staff checking cars and trucks as they passed.

I was immediately hailed off the road. Here they asked me where I was going and where I was from, my passport was handed over.

They gave me tea and conveyed I had to wait. After half an hour or more, an officer who knew some English told me I was going to get a lift in a pickup truck to Samalut.

Soon we loaded the bike into the vehicle. I sat in the back with two officers.

Both had old machine guns and both were very friendly.

In some ways, this was a timely event. It was discovered that many of the small towns don’t have hotels. I had planned on only riding to Mattai. The officer told me there were no hotels there.

 They were going to take me to El Minya, a total trip of 140km, really out of comfortable reach in a day.

So, we headed off. We were talking and laughing much of the way there. Thanks to Google translate on my phone.

On arrival at Samalut they stopped and let me out. Two other offers turned up in a car. These guys followed me all the 34 km to El Minya. A good tail wind was blowing so my speed was around 22km., so they were happy just hanging 20m behind me.

I couldn’t stop to take photos, only to have a leak and take an energy gel.

Once in El Minya, they guided me to the Hotel Lotus.

Here we said goodbye, I thanked them. An officer was posted in the lobby with my bike for the night, all my gear went up to the room.

While I think about rooms, in Beni Suef the other night, someone stole my chair off the back of the bike while I was upstairs at reception. Hotels with 1st floor rooms are always a problem.

Arrangements had been made to meet the police here in the morning at 0800. They were going to take me all the way to Asyut.

The officer wanted to walk with me to town, this I told him was not necessary. He dropped the idea, thankfully.

10/1/2015 El Minya to Asyut

 Riding distance 5km

In police vehicles 140km

By the time the lobby was entered from the lift at 0745, there were police waiting for me.

The bike and gear were put in the back of the wagon.

Three officers joined me. Off we went, this was great because the 140km to Asyut was not really on for me.

We drove to Mallawi and then the next crew came to pick me up.

They were only running me to the southern extremity of their respective precincts.

 The same happened in Dairut and again in El Qusiya.

Some vehicles were dual cabs, so I was in the back seat.

In all cases these guys were great company and good humoured, infact, even though we had language difficulties we found much to laugh at.

Again, the translator was a huge help. I was showing them photos of South America and here in Egypt.

They were armed and carried bulletproof vests. I was given tea at the change overs and chatted with all the officers, at times a dozen were grouped around on the road at the boundary police stations.

This road and the activities conducted along it give one an idea of the gift that the Nile is to Egypt. For the last 3 days, the immediate country side has been a rich geen from all sorts of crops.

Without the Nile, Egypt would literally be a desert. The life this valley supports is quite incredible, especially when light brown sandy bluffs are seen as the backdrop not far away in many places. Beyond these, life is in the desert.

Soon we got to another police checkpoint at the fringes of Asyut, here we stopped. An hour went by. Not even slightly perturbed. It was just enjoyable standing right alongside the police randomly checking cars.

All sorts of people were travelling. Most vehicles were at least 5 to 10 years old. The many types of clothing people wore was intriguing in itself.

Soon the guys told me to get my gear from the pickup. Some other officers in a car were going to guide me through town to a 2 star hotel.

The bike was loaded, I was to follow them.

This was something never experienced before, like most things since arriving in Egypt.

They were using their sirens on and off the whole way. Someone would just get in their way and on would come one of a variety of sounds they had.

In the centre of town in slow moving heavy traffic, people were talking to me from other cars. I said hi  and motioned, yeah I’m with them, they laughed.

It really was quite surreal, being given this kind of service right to the hotel door. Finding this place would have been almost impossible.

It is the Alhussin Hotel, can’t tell you where in town, but asking will get you here should you ever be in Asyut in the Nile valley.

I thanked the guys, they did not arrange to meet tomorrow. I couldn’t believe it, I was free to ride alone. Yeah!! The first checkpoint tomorrow will confirm this or not??

These policemen, down to the last one had been so good to me the whole way, they were friendly and helpful and never once motioned for money.

They were careful with my bike and never once hurried me as I helped move it from one vehicle to another. They were patient as the panniers and all gear were attached to the bike.  

Some Arabic lessons were even had on route, can’t remember much of it!

Their intention was to see I got safely to Asyut. My thanks goes to all these guys.

It was an experience not to be forgotten.

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Huge blocks of stone
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Coming to terms with all this ancient construction and symmetry is something else.
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Lots of young guys were working in the markets. He loved his job.
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Typical bread
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The guys were playing football. I was waiting for Rami, we spent some time together.
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Amigos!!
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Rami was a good cook.
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Ready to head of for Beni Suef
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Hang on little mate!
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canal fishermen
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All hands on deck
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Mayhem in Beni Suef
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Early lunch
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Spotted!! My first lift.
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All the police were great guys, with good senses of humour and excellent company
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There was always plenty of help at change overs.
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The desert was never far away, looking towards the Nile.
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