27/4/2013 Pedro Ruiz to Chachapoyas
D55, T4.3, 6, Av 12.26, Av12.26, Max43, Tot13566, 3563
A beautiful day to say the least, no wind and about 25
Feeling a bit better, though still pinching the toilet paper from the room, hey, I paid for it!!. I thanked Miranda and filled out the guest book, my comments were all positive, she was a great host and had a good sense of humour.
Breakfast was enjoyed at a busy place across the road. Some guys, 4 of them were there and had their security van idling outside. Last night I looked at it outside our hotel. It was literally a tank in disquise, fully armour plated and had gun holes at strategic points, the wind screen had armoured plates that could be folded down. Made by Mercedes, quite a piece of machinery.
These lonely roads would be the perfect place for a hold up.
Back to proceedings, turning left from town the road was an easy ride following the river. The left hand side was all cuttings and in a constant state of motion, that driven by gravity.
There were signs of slippage everywhere. Traffic was very light.
Small water courses crossed the road. Men were working in groups with shovels cleaning the gutters.
They spend all dry season preparing for the rains that will bring more debris onto the road.
Many times on this passage I have been acutely aware of the danger of these rock overhangs and cliff like road cuttings, there were always pieces of rock on the road. At times you could hear bits falling. Resting spots had to be chosen wisely.
At one point a herd of goats back in the first range were causing a reasonable rock slide as they traversed a scree. The lower animals were losing their footings as avocado size rocks were hitting their legs.
Stopping to chat to some guys on the road making mud bricks they told me they get, S20 for 30 bricks. You could build a large rustic house here for very little.
The primary component, a clay like dirt came from the roadside, water and dry grass were never far away.
It was cool outside, perfect conditions, I was excited about reaching Chachapoyas, a good rest was going to be enjoyed there.
At one point on the road heavy machinery was clearing a slip, we had to wait for half an hour. Speaking with a guy from California, he was back visiting his home country after many years, he said this part of Peru is very beautiful.
For me the word "understatement" came to mind, the scenery of the last 4 days had been a salient roller coaster ride through almost all environments except that of heavy rainforest and snow. A tranquil roller coaster, travelling at such a laid back speed, where one could get off and marvel at the grandeur any time.
Soon the road left the Utcubamba and headed up into the range. With a good gradient, riding up these ranges can be such a pleasure.
My lowest gear is perfectly suited to the weight I am carrying, a match that does require effort, though it is an effort that can be applied for prolonged periods with sufficient rests.
It is not draining in the medium term. As said before, this effort is infused with exhilaration, inspiration and anticipation, all feed by the sheer wonderment of this breath taking environment. Which can be tardily absorbed and wallowed in as the metres slowly move past the front wheel.
This external balance when reaching the mind, maintains its powers, producing thoughts of achievement, physical well being and a sense of place, unencumbered by any other external influences.
Though other road users keep the situation real.
This simple connection with nature,I feel is something long lost for many people in places we call cities and towns, places were these sensations are often only achieved with a relationship to money, a relationship of obtaining it, then spending it.
So important are social relationships, though, so many of these experiences and their venues today are also heightened by money.
Many people in these larger urban environments have not experienced a lunch on a river bank, lakes edge or under a shady tree by a quiet beach. Preferring only to entertain themselves within the built environment.
I feel, and now know, that with this environment comes, anxieties and stresses you aren't even aware of until you have stepped aside from it for sometime.
Given this, consumerism, at this time will prevail, as most people, sadly, in my mind, don't know how to reward themselves any other way.
I will admit, when the going does get tough, much time is just spent head down looking at the front cog, as all my bodily effort is transferred into a mesmerizing circular motion above the road.
Drinks were had at the turnoff to Kuelap.
The black serpent just kept looking for the least line of resistance up the range. All I had to do was stay on her back.
Down in the valley was a palatial set up on the river, there were a couple of swimming pools and all the trappings. This was all surrounded by a Cherymoya plantation. Someone had done well, later I was told the place is owned by a politician, why am I not surprised. The person who told me had a tone in his voice that didn’t need elaboration.
Chachpoyas is the capital of Amazona. Not a big place but located in such a beautiful spot, the area is steeped in pre Incan history.
Thankfully there are locals laws banning wasps from the town, without them in the streets are much more relaxed.
It was literally uphill all the way to the town square.
This journey was like "a journey within a journey". Asking about for ground level lodgings, the Revash on the square was found. It is a magnificent old Spanish construction facing the square with a court yard big enough for another house.
My room is timbered, cosy and with a big super comfy double bed and hot water.
It has good internet to the room. If here in town don’t go past this place. The host is a good guy with a cheeky sense of humour.
Dinner was enjoyed in a small eatery, whilst a stroll around the markets settled it in my stomach.
It is such a bugger, I am still not in perfect working order. Though not an inconvenience, timing wise, things leaving my body in the squatting position are still not as they should be, not ridiculous, but not normal.
28-29/4/2013 Chachapoyas
This has become a real resting place my room is a bit like home, its nice to get back to after being out, the hostal has a good vibe about it.
It is so nice sleeping in and having good access to the net in my room. It has been enjoyable updated this log.
Yesterday was spend touring the ruins of Kuelap, some 3 hours drive from here up one hell of a gravel road.
The excerpt from wiki below says more than I can say, except that not that many people come here.
The fortress of Kuelap or Cuélap (Chachapoyas, Amazonas, Perú), associated with the Chachapoyas culture, consists of massive exterior stone walls containing more than four hundred buildings. The structure, situated on a ridge overlooking the Utcubamba Valley in northern Peru, is roughly 600 meters in length and 110 meters in width. It could have been built to defend against the Huari or other hostile peoples. However, evidence of these hostile groups at the site is minimal. Radiocarbon dating samples show that construction of the structures started in the 6th century AD and occupied until the Early Colonial period (1532-1570). However, through the pre-Columbian, conquest and colonial periods we have only four brief references to Kuelap. In lieu of newly discovered documents, there exists no other testimony concerning the site until 1843.
The monumental ruins of Kuelap are situated at 3000 m above sea level. Judging from its sheer size, Kuelap's construction required considerable effort, rivalling or surpassing other archaeological structures in the Americas in size. The structure is almost 600 m in length and its walls rise up to 19 m in height.
Ref:wikipedia.org
It was a full day. Chris an English guy and I have spend some time together, he is here for an extended time also.
We sit in my room, brew coffee and talk a bit of shit, very relaxing. He is a nice guy, we have a fair bit in common, one thing being we are both trying to learn Spanish.
I have a lesson today for 1 hour just to brush up on a few bad habits. They have an international school here.
Last night we lashed out and spent $12 each on just the best meal. We were even waited on.
The restaurant was called the Sabores del Peru. It was recommended by Carlos that runs the hostal.
All my clothes have been cleaned and sun dryed on the roof top here. Today I bought eggs and vegetables for possible camping on the way to Cajamarca.
The town is such a tranquil place with everything accessible, good eats and markets. No wasps win me!!
Chris and I were invited to a US Embassy teaching English presentation which was very interesting . They have an English teaching section at the embassy in Lima offering scholarships to Peruanos to study in the US.
I still have slight diarrhoea but am leaving tomorrow for Cajamarca.
D55, T4.3, 6, Av 12.26, Av12.26, Max43, Tot13566, 3563
A beautiful day to say the least, no wind and about 25
Feeling a bit better, though still pinching the toilet paper from the room, hey, I paid for it!!. I thanked Miranda and filled out the guest book, my comments were all positive, she was a great host and had a good sense of humour.
Breakfast was enjoyed at a busy place across the road. Some guys, 4 of them were there and had their security van idling outside. Last night I looked at it outside our hotel. It was literally a tank in disquise, fully armour plated and had gun holes at strategic points, the wind screen had armoured plates that could be folded down. Made by Mercedes, quite a piece of machinery.
These lonely roads would be the perfect place for a hold up.
Back to proceedings, turning left from town the road was an easy ride following the river. The left hand side was all cuttings and in a constant state of motion, that driven by gravity.
There were signs of slippage everywhere. Traffic was very light.
Small water courses crossed the road. Men were working in groups with shovels cleaning the gutters.
They spend all dry season preparing for the rains that will bring more debris onto the road.
Many times on this passage I have been acutely aware of the danger of these rock overhangs and cliff like road cuttings, there were always pieces of rock on the road. At times you could hear bits falling. Resting spots had to be chosen wisely.
At one point a herd of goats back in the first range were causing a reasonable rock slide as they traversed a scree. The lower animals were losing their footings as avocado size rocks were hitting their legs.
Stopping to chat to some guys on the road making mud bricks they told me they get, S20 for 30 bricks. You could build a large rustic house here for very little.
The primary component, a clay like dirt came from the roadside, water and dry grass were never far away.
It was cool outside, perfect conditions, I was excited about reaching Chachapoyas, a good rest was going to be enjoyed there.
At one point on the road heavy machinery was clearing a slip, we had to wait for half an hour. Speaking with a guy from California, he was back visiting his home country after many years, he said this part of Peru is very beautiful.
For me the word "understatement" came to mind, the scenery of the last 4 days had been a salient roller coaster ride through almost all environments except that of heavy rainforest and snow. A tranquil roller coaster, travelling at such a laid back speed, where one could get off and marvel at the grandeur any time.
Soon the road left the Utcubamba and headed up into the range. With a good gradient, riding up these ranges can be such a pleasure.
My lowest gear is perfectly suited to the weight I am carrying, a match that does require effort, though it is an effort that can be applied for prolonged periods with sufficient rests.
It is not draining in the medium term. As said before, this effort is infused with exhilaration, inspiration and anticipation, all feed by the sheer wonderment of this breath taking environment. Which can be tardily absorbed and wallowed in as the metres slowly move past the front wheel.
This external balance when reaching the mind, maintains its powers, producing thoughts of achievement, physical well being and a sense of place, unencumbered by any other external influences.
Though other road users keep the situation real.
This simple connection with nature,I feel is something long lost for many people in places we call cities and towns, places were these sensations are often only achieved with a relationship to money, a relationship of obtaining it, then spending it.
So important are social relationships, though, so many of these experiences and their venues today are also heightened by money.
Many people in these larger urban environments have not experienced a lunch on a river bank, lakes edge or under a shady tree by a quiet beach. Preferring only to entertain themselves within the built environment.
I feel, and now know, that with this environment comes, anxieties and stresses you aren't even aware of until you have stepped aside from it for sometime.
Given this, consumerism, at this time will prevail, as most people, sadly, in my mind, don't know how to reward themselves any other way.
I will admit, when the going does get tough, much time is just spent head down looking at the front cog, as all my bodily effort is transferred into a mesmerizing circular motion above the road.
Drinks were had at the turnoff to Kuelap.
The black serpent just kept looking for the least line of resistance up the range. All I had to do was stay on her back.
Down in the valley was a palatial set up on the river, there were a couple of swimming pools and all the trappings. This was all surrounded by a Cherymoya plantation. Someone had done well, later I was told the place is owned by a politician, why am I not surprised. The person who told me had a tone in his voice that didn’t need elaboration.
Chachpoyas is the capital of Amazona. Not a big place but located in such a beautiful spot, the area is steeped in pre Incan history.
Thankfully there are locals laws banning wasps from the town, without them in the streets are much more relaxed.
It was literally uphill all the way to the town square.
This journey was like "a journey within a journey". Asking about for ground level lodgings, the Revash on the square was found. It is a magnificent old Spanish construction facing the square with a court yard big enough for another house.
My room is timbered, cosy and with a big super comfy double bed and hot water.
It has good internet to the room. If here in town don’t go past this place. The host is a good guy with a cheeky sense of humour.
Dinner was enjoyed in a small eatery, whilst a stroll around the markets settled it in my stomach.
It is such a bugger, I am still not in perfect working order. Though not an inconvenience, timing wise, things leaving my body in the squatting position are still not as they should be, not ridiculous, but not normal.
28-29/4/2013 Chachapoyas
This has become a real resting place my room is a bit like home, its nice to get back to after being out, the hostal has a good vibe about it.
It is so nice sleeping in and having good access to the net in my room. It has been enjoyable updated this log.
Yesterday was spend touring the ruins of Kuelap, some 3 hours drive from here up one hell of a gravel road.
The excerpt from wiki below says more than I can say, except that not that many people come here.
The fortress of Kuelap or Cuélap (Chachapoyas, Amazonas, Perú), associated with the Chachapoyas culture, consists of massive exterior stone walls containing more than four hundred buildings. The structure, situated on a ridge overlooking the Utcubamba Valley in northern Peru, is roughly 600 meters in length and 110 meters in width. It could have been built to defend against the Huari or other hostile peoples. However, evidence of these hostile groups at the site is minimal. Radiocarbon dating samples show that construction of the structures started in the 6th century AD and occupied until the Early Colonial period (1532-1570). However, through the pre-Columbian, conquest and colonial periods we have only four brief references to Kuelap. In lieu of newly discovered documents, there exists no other testimony concerning the site until 1843.
The monumental ruins of Kuelap are situated at 3000 m above sea level. Judging from its sheer size, Kuelap's construction required considerable effort, rivalling or surpassing other archaeological structures in the Americas in size. The structure is almost 600 m in length and its walls rise up to 19 m in height.
Ref:wikipedia.org
It was a full day. Chris an English guy and I have spend some time together, he is here for an extended time also.
We sit in my room, brew coffee and talk a bit of shit, very relaxing. He is a nice guy, we have a fair bit in common, one thing being we are both trying to learn Spanish.
I have a lesson today for 1 hour just to brush up on a few bad habits. They have an international school here.
Last night we lashed out and spent $12 each on just the best meal. We were even waited on.
The restaurant was called the Sabores del Peru. It was recommended by Carlos that runs the hostal.
All my clothes have been cleaned and sun dryed on the roof top here. Today I bought eggs and vegetables for possible camping on the way to Cajamarca.
The town is such a tranquil place with everything accessible, good eats and markets. No wasps win me!!
Chris and I were invited to a US Embassy teaching English presentation which was very interesting . They have an English teaching section at the embassy in Lima offering scholarships to Peruanos to study in the US.
I still have slight diarrhoea but am leaving tomorrow for Cajamarca.
Diong what they know, the bricks are lying out to dry in the background.
Bromels surviving the unsurvivable, and thriving in this crisp clear tropical alpine environment. I think you can have both these in one place??!!! Can you?
El parque en Chachapoyas, Amazona,
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At the road block with a small canyon emptying its contents into the Utcubamba.
Taking photographs here is a fulltime preoccupation.
The Revash Hostel in Chachapoyas, 3 blankets, all nice and cosy, Like a rural B&B
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Pueblos and Pueblitos en la via
Bloody wasps, though so important for transport for so many.
