browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
16/1/2015 Luxor to Idfu

D122, T7, Av19.70, Max31, 35460, 581

Cool tail wind sunny

Breakfast was enjoyed with another couple who were cycling to the Valley of the Kings. So, it was 0900 before Luxor city was departed. The decision was taken to cross to the west side of the river to enjoy some riding off the main south road and hopefully not be hassled by the police.

The bridge at El Dabiya was used to get to the west side.

Once on this road, the riding was a sheer pleasure with the sun out and tail winds.

The road was smooth and busy with tractors pulling one or two trailers loaded high with sugar cane. Tuk Tuks were common as were donkeys.

Many people were seen in cane paddocks cutting it by hand.

Donkeys were carrying cane on many occasions.

Dozens of children were calling out.

Most difficult of all was  guys in their 20’s following me from towns either on motos or the 3 wheeler motos with a tray. These guys were giving me the thumb and two finger rub and saying money, money, money or Euro, Euro, Euro.

They were also using the word Alibaba, which probably meant I had a way to riches.

Some followed me for 5km or more, I would totally ignore them. I said to one group on a tray moto. I will give you my friendship but not my money. That soon saw them move on.

Many young men had this attitude and yet others were friendly.

I stopped in a small village to get a drink. Immediately 20 kids were all crowded around. They were a good bunch of kids. Though, they liked touching things. The older people men always shoo them away, it is quite amusing.

They scatter like birds.

Lunch and tea was had in Isna, here time was spent with a man about my age who could speak some English.

This morning on awaking, walking was really difficult. My feet felt like they had been in a vice all night being squeezed across the base of the toes, a bit like being in a narrow ski boot.

It was a relapse of the Chikungunya.

So all day I had to take care when getting off the bike as I could not put too much weight on my feet. It was ever so painful.

Riding was fine, as my feet were not supporting any weight.

As I scribe this tonight they are still very painful. This could go on for a few months yet having spoken with people in Nic who said it can last some time.

Leaving Isna, the water front road was taken, there were a couple of large tourist boats heading down stream. This was a port. Just downstream was a large concrete bridge that was too low for these boats to pass. I figured they had done the Aswan and return tour.

This road was running alongside the river.

It soon deteriorated to gravel. There were people all along the route. Friday is like the weekend here.

This continued for some 5-10km, then a right turn was taken and this got me back onto the main road again.

This west bank road is more of a working road, whereas on the east side is the main road.

There was always something to see. Though, care had to be taken as it was a busy place. A village was every 5 to 10km.

In the villages is where these guys would start following. Most just got sick of my attitude of completely ignoring them.

On the other hand, older men were extremely friendly.

On arrival at 1630 in Idfu, I asked about hotels, the first one had, steep stairs just off the street. This was no good.

I headed into the main street and found another one, it was also just to awkward.

The Hotel Horus was found, it seemed all hotels had steps off the streets. Three annoying kids had followed me into the building. I parked the bike in the corridor and told them to leave and walked up one flight, they had come back and were trying to steal things of the bike. I yelled at them. They scattered.

 

I went out on the street to find someone to help me get the bike up 3 flights to the reception. A young guy came to help. These 3 young boys came back, in no uncertain terms I told them to get out of here.

They were scared and ran off.

Once at reception, the owner tried to get me to pay 300 pounds, I said c’mon, I pay less than 200 for hotels like this. I offered 150 and he came to 180. Though, it cost me another 10 to get him to help me up another three flights of stairs.

The bike is now fully loaded with food, up to 5 days of pasta, milk powder, tuna and sardines, the weight is too much for me to get up more than a couple of flights of stairs, my back has to be considered.

The room is very comfortable with a good hot shower.

My first impressions of Idfu were not good.

Sadly, for all the friendly people, there are just as many people who are only interested in wanting money. Totally ignoring these kind of people, is for me the only way to give them the message. It seems rude but there is no other way.

A hot shower was taken and a huge pasta dish enjoyed in the room. It was so nice to be off the streets.

My cargo nets on the back of the bike have been a saviour, as people cannot get at things on the back whilst I am not watching. Some bread went missing somewhere, in the crowds.

My feet are still really aching, hopefully, tomorrow they will have settled down.

Riding here is proving quite a challenge. A challenge so far being met, head on. Vigilance and foward thinking are always necessary when getting off the bike as on many occasions people, especially young boys gather round very quick. It is at these times, temptation may get the better of a few of them.

Putting all this aside, riding today was a pleasure on this rural road. A great tail wind pushed me along all day and there was so much activity to be observed.

 

17/1/2015 Idfu to Aswan

D131, T7, av19.82, Max56, 35591, 712

Just a magic day, mild sunny and tailwinds

The pain experienced last night had me huddled up in bed. My mind was thinking about all sorts of things.

Getting up to go to the toilet in the middle of the night, walking, clasping onto things as I proceeded was the only way to get there.

The pain in my feet was excruciating. Back in bed, sleep did come later.

My knees were also sore. There is no pattern to this pain. It strikes different places at will, my shoulders, hands, knees and feet.

Two Ibuprofen tab were taken, this helped

A positive attitude is all that can be used against this.

The pasta was finished off for breakfast with coffee.

Down on the street, a young guy was summoned with the waving of 15EP to come and help me with the bike.

By the time we got down from the 4th floor he was worn out, he had earnt his money. My roll, was to apply the brakes and steer the bike down the worm stone stairs, at least the landings had some space to turn the heavy bike.

Once moving about the pain eases, on the bike it is no real problem. However, activities off the bike have to be carried out with caution.

It was decided to head back to the west side of the Nile and get on the highway, so  to get to Aswan in good time.

Once over the bridge, amongst the early morning mist and smoke, a right turn was made, progress to the south was being made again. Some 5km on, two policemen pulled me up.

They told me to go back onto the east side of the river. No amount of persuasion via my translatorand a few words  would see them change their minds.

So back, I had to go. It was still only 0800, so there was no real hurry. A large group of foreign cyclists were seen crossing the bridge earlier. They turned out to be doing the Tour de Afrique, a supported kind of race from Cairo to Cape Town over 4 months.

Back in town, traffic was negotiated again. It did not take long to get out of the urban area and into more relaxed surroundings. As usual, a canal was followed constantly.

Children were relentlessly calling out.

The day was mild compared to others, riding now without my raincoat is possible.

Woollen gloves are being worn.

The road was much quieter and without people asking for money.

A second breakfast was enjoyed, some 25km into the ride. The guys were so friendly at the little roadside cafe.

They didn’t overcharge either. This always sees me riding of with a  renewed  warmth towards the people.

Little gestures go such a long way.

A great tailwind was hurrying me along, at 26km/hr there was no apparent wind on my face.

As usual, there was so much to see. Cane again was the main activity. The road soon started heading to the western fringes of the irrigated area of the Nile valley. The scenery changed dramatically to a desert environment. The riding suddenly became so peaceful, it was great to be away from people and just take in some new vistas.

There were even a few hills to be climbed, the max speed today indicates there were some nice downhill runs.

There are earthenware earns in shelters every 10km or so along the road. The water in these is for travellers, it is so cool and tasty, without chlorine having been added.

My bottles were kept topped up. In the mild conditions, not huge amounts of water were drunk.

One landscape before me, was just flat desert with hundreds of pylons conducting power from the Aswan dams. They were running in all directions, one line headed to a huge complex in the distance belching black smoke from a couple of tall stacks.

There were large areas where agriculture was just starting out with young date palms and other crops, though always plenty of animal feed. New piping could be seen, to irrigate these small plots. This sandy loam just needs water.

Men and boys were seen carrying freshly cut feed on their donkeys, every one of these people and their animals makes for great photographic subject matter.

Most people were greeted. Everyone responded positively.

At times, the road came close to the Nile. The contrasting desert and the beautiful blue waters fringed with palms, were breath taking. As were the green crops also with the desert just beyond.

Small villages were passed through.

At one point, the road came close to the river in an area with no housing, just a track to the water’s edge over packed sand.

Here a swim was enjoyed in the remarkably clear and not unbearably cold waters. It felt so refreshing.

A tin of sardines was enjoyed under a clump of palms. A man walked by and just welcomed me to Egypt.

Having had my little camp stool stolen makes this kind of activity so difficult, especially in places that offer little to sit on other than sand.

The riding was still through the fringes of the desert.

A cold orange juice was had in one village, bread was also bought, an older guy on his donkey stopped to buy something. His donkey loved the bread I offered to him.

Once back in the open desert again, the roadside on the outskirts of the towns was littered with rubbish and sun dried carcasses of dogs and many cattle, interestingly no camel carcasses were observed.

The three wheeled motos with a tray on the back are a very common work vehicle here. All chinese built.

Soon the huge cables of the Aswan Suspension bridge could be seen above the Nile on my left. There were a number of large river cruise boats plying the waters.

Nearing the bridge and the feeder roads leading to it, the police stopped me to ask where I was going.

They directed me over the bridge. Here, I spoke with a couple of the guys who were in the assisted bike tour, they had ridden here on the east side.

In hindsight, the police who redirected me near Idfu did me such a favour. This stretch today would have to be the highlight in the trip from Cairo to Aswan.

It was a long ride on the west bank into downtown Aswan. Closer to town the Corniche was ridden. Great views were offered across the river to the desert.

A few large hotels occupied the river’s edge. My smart phone and the Google maps is a great help when in these cities, as many streets are not named prominently, if at all.

A huge mosque was passed on the way into town. The twin minarets contrasted so piercingly against the rich blue cloudless sky.

After about an hour and a half the Nubian Oasis Hotel was found and booked. It is very basic but central to everything, the Aswan Souk is right outside.

Once settled in the hotel room again up a few floors. Luckily, the bike sitting vertical on its back wheel and my gear could be fitted in the lift.

The lifts in these hotel have to be ridden with care as there is no inside door and the floors and other doors move past, if you caught a piece of clothing on a wood splinter or nail, consequences would see you disrobed at least.

In the room, it was great too just lie on the bed.

The foot pain returned once I stopped moving. It had been a big day.

 Dinner was enjoyed across the road in a street stall and a greatly interrupted wander around the souk was enjoyed. People were hounding me throughout its length.

Once back in the room and on the bed I was asleep unbelievably quick.

18/1/2015 Aswan

Awaking in the night by the pain in my legs and feet, once again it was a painful trip to the toilet.

I really can’t believe this is happening to me. I have always had some joint pain though insignificant and not pre occupying, this is something else.

In the morning, I hobbled into the lovely hot waters of the ancient shower.

My sandals were worn. Today, a visa for The Sudan had to be obtained and the boat to Wadi Halfa booked.

Copies of my passport were made and 12 passport photos bought. Most countries now will require the both.

Out at the Sudanese consulate, which has recently moved. Google maps are not correct.

Ask a taxi driver to take you past the stadium and look for a high rise building on the left with a large sign TRAVCO on its side. The consulate is in behind this. The taxi fare should be 20EP from town.

Once out here they took my photos etc and said come back on Tuesday to pick up the visa, the cost is $US50.

As it turns out the ferry to Wadi Halfa in Sudan only leaves on Sundays, so I will be here for a week. It will be time to see if this arthritic problem subsides.

I am going to do my best not to let a mosquito dampen my spirits.

People here are great, everso friendly. I enjoy mixing it with the locals in the out of the way places.

By comparison, a mini bus with locals back from the Sudanese embassy was 1EP.

People enjoy hearing the few words I know.

The morning was spent hobbling about, on one occasion, I could hardly walk from a taxi, the pain is that bad when I have been sitting down for half an hour or more.  

Some 600mg Ibuprofen tabs were bought, an hour later the pain subsided.

Prescription drugs are very cheap here over the counter, this was $A3

I am aware of the side effects of this stuff, it is not good. Exercising, in particular, cycling can cause stomach lining bleeding among other nasty problems.

Its use is going to be kept to a minimum.
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Quite overwhelming. Only to be overshadowed by amazement at the work put into these monolithic constructions
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Sunset in Luxor
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We just don't create this kind of stuff anymore
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The Nile and these unique sail boats are nearly always framed by desert.
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downtown Luxor, a restoration in progress.
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fresh cut cane, stock grazing the stuble.
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Such contrast, just add water.
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These white blocks are used everywhere in construction, they are actually very heavy. Once again the contrasting colours just begged for a photo.
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Just on the fringes of the irrigated land what a difference without water.
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His donkey loved my bread.
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The road side outside villages was littered with waste, accompanied by dead cows and dogs, obvious by their absence were camel carcasses.
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Across the bridge and heading to town, original dwellings.
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Getting closer to downtown Aswan.
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The rich, vivid blue sky is always follows the sun day after day. Minarets on a new riverside mosque, getting closer to town.
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Synonymous with the Nile, Feluccas
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Looking downstream, Aswan. The river boats ply between here and Luxor.
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Survival food, I have to have my greens, fresh beans, peas from the pod, butter and lots of pepper. Blanched.
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From the west side
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Cleopatra, a lovely old sailboat, steel hulled.
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Live and let live, and everything will be fine!
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The limestone within these hills allowed for easy excavation. Tragically for Egypt we had this place almost to ourselves. All the traders near these attractions were once very busy. the 2001 revolution put a stop to this. If only they had a leader back then, the outcome may have been different.
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Colours of indigo preserved for thousands of years after a coat of wax back then.
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Along way down with a fully loaded touring bike, Idfu
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Don't know where their owner was but they seemed content.
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These water urns were placed along the road every 10km or more, the chlorine free water was delicious and remarkably cold. The evaporation on the weeping urns kept the water cool.
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So happy to be in open spaces without people everywhere. 20km nth of Aswan.
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This felt so good, fresh but not unbearable.
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The east side, main road and rail track. Train heading north to Cairo.
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The Aswan bridge, crossing this took me to Aswan city.
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Aswan bridge, an impressive structure.
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take a mini bus or taxi (20EP) north to here, the Sudanese Consulate is behind this building.
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A delicacy caught in the Nasser dam. they are expensive.
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My home for a week, the Nubian Oasis Hotel. Very central and reasonably priced. Plenty of natural light and gets the sun all afternoon.
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Nile river scene Aswan.
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I have yet to use this apparatus. I'm a fan of toilet paper.!!
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Aswan from the Princes tombs west side.
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At the helm on Cleopatra.
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Heavy traffic on the west side of Elephantine Island heading upstream to Aswan.
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Ahmid, Skipper. She does runs from Aswan to Luxor with groups over a few days.
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The waters from the Nile now join those from both ends of the Mississippi, the Beagle Channel and the Amazon. All "along for the ride"
Aswan 20-24/1/2015

It has been a long stop here in Aswan. This time here has given me space to reflect on life here in the Nile Valley and in Egypt in general.

Not wanting to visit many tourist sites due to the need to see my funds last, few such attractions have been frequented.

Much more enjoyment comes from wandering about talking to people and seeing how they live.

All my gear has been checked and essential supplies bought. Mainly raisins, porridge and good milk powder. The Nestle brand Nido, is bought, as it readily dissolves in hot coffee.

I am not sure what to expect in The Sudan.

Other local milk powders, though cheaper tend to go lumpy when introduced to hot water.

With the sun getting into my room all afternoon, it has been an ideal opportunity to wash all my clothes.

The hot water arrangement in my room is a wall cylinder, the water is heated by electricity.

It is quite dangerous, as it is heated to boiling point. Getting under the shower, the perfect temperature has to be carefully calibrated beforehand, just a tiny twist of the hot tap can render the water dangerously hot.

My camera flash has ceased to work, which is very annoying, as I use flash often. A replacement cannot be obtained here.

I had a year’s supply of movies and TV shows plus all my photos on a hard drive which has crashed, this is such a pain. I am going to have to carry it until someone has the gear to recover the data. I bought a 1Tb drive to replace it. I was told no one here in Aswan who can perform this task.

Out on the streets, time has been taken to sit in coffee shops and just watch life here.

On Friday, the start of the weekend. I was up early just wandering about. Once a coffee was bought and a seat on the footpath secured, life was observed.

Many parts of the street edges are littered with spit. Dust and rubbish are also everywhere.
Rain sometimes only falls two days a year, this enhances the dirtiness of some locales. So many men were smoking, this and spitting are often related. Many people appear to have winter colds.

People with their donkey and carts were passing, some with produce on the cart, others just with friends.

Men were setting up stalls, some fruit stalls were open. Much time is spent stacking and presenting the fruit in these stalls. Often the best mandarins are at the front of the mound, when purchasing the fruit, quite a different product is sold. Care has to be taken when buying fruit.

Right now, strawberries have just been harvested, they are deliciously sweet.

Being a weekend, quite a few women and their children were out and about early.

The  Abaya garment, (the black cloak for woman worn over clothing when in public, common in gulf countries) is prevalent, however many woman just wear it without the full face niqab, though almost all woman wear head scarves (Hijabs).

The burqa common in Afghanistan comes in other colours, here the Abaya is almost always black.

Most men my age wear the Thobe, a long robe where the top is tailored like a shirt, but is ankle length and loose. Sandals with some kind of headwear generally accompany this.

Then, on the other hand, just as many young guys and girls are dressed in skin tight fashion jeans and shirts. Many men my age are also casually dressed, some in suits. It really is a preoccupation just observing the many dress styles here.

The pocket bread, Eesh baladi, is whole meal and so nice, when fresh, it can just be eaten on its own. The sandwich bars use this.

The local sandwich price is 1 pound ( very few places will charge tourists this price) for a sandwich filled with tomato salad, fried eggplant and Falafal balls crushed. Often small white bread long rolls are sold filled with a meat and capsicum mix.

The food is often spicy, much to my liking.

Generally, in the background the callings from mosques can be heard. Many small eateries have droning words from the Koran playing on their stereo systems.

All food is served by people using just their bare hands and often smoking simultaneously. No one seems to care, me amongst them.

A bread shop visited early in the morning had all their fresh bread laid out on the footpath.

I chose my bread from a clean section of the sidewalk!! It is a great place to build up ones immunity to bugs and germs here.

Once again, the little donkeys that do so much work fascinate me. They are generally pulling a cart running on 4 or 2 car axles, constructed of wood. Some animals are so tiny. Often the carts are so heavily loaded. Luckily, there are few hills here.

Having seen them taking these heavy loads down slopes, it is not a nice sight, there are no brakes on the carts and the poor animals are doing their best to stay on their feet whilst their owner is alongside trying to slow the cart.

They never complain. I suppose they can’t!!!

It is quite noticeable that the men don’t pay much attention to the woman on the streets. The clothing the woman wear, leaves a huge amount to the imagination.

In public, there is little outward affection shown between men and woman, generally the woman are walking with one another.

People are always sweeping their little plot near their stalls in the souk or sprinkling water to dampen the dust on the street.

Now, when walking in the souk few people hassle me. They know I am not a shopper for things not needed.

Having said all this, life and the people here are so, so, so, different to the way we go about things, and how we live.

In an ideal world, we both need to respect how each of our cultures go about life. Much of this respect should come from our side.


We don’t live in an ideal world, sadly.

Oliver, a young Swiss cyclist spent time with me one night, he is taking the bus to Wadi Halfa and will be ahead of me. We hope to catch up later.

I spent a morning trying to find a replacement for my stolen stool. Stall holders and shop keepers were everso helpful. One of sorts has been found. I could not bear camping without some kind of seat.

One morning, while waiting to buy my ferry ticket to Wadi Halfa, in need of a toilet, a guy was stopped, I pointed to my groin. He said, “No fucking here”. I quickly, in no uncertain fashion, clearly enacted my need to use a toilet. It was a funny moment.

For me anyway.

People, like in most countries, love it when their language is used. The few words I know are spoken as much as possible.

This puts a smile on people’s faces.

Often, as usual the first question is, where you from.

One day a visit was made to the Princes tombs across the river on the west bank.

5EP over and 1EP back, watching the price is a full time job here.

A climb to the top of the hill was made. Here expansive views back across the river to Aswan were taken in. The city of some 280,000 people blends in with the desert. The mosques and churches, apart from the 5 star hotels are the most prominent buildings in the cityscape.

The other buildings are mostly just shades of brown, like the desert.

On the way back across the river, a large graceful felucca crossed our bow and gybed.

It was an exhilarating moment, the “Cleopatra” was a sight to see.

The next morning was spent trying to find the captain of this vessel. Some three hours later, he was found sitting on a wall along the Cornish.

We arranged a sail at 1500 that afternoon. A breeze is often blowing at this time of day.

She was a craft capable of carrying 50 people. Just myself, the owner and the captain were onboard. They let me take the helm for the full two and a half hours whilst plying the Nile.

Going down stream, we tacked into the norwester of 10-15 knots. It was such a pleasure to see the huge cloth sail full of wind. The port tack saw her heeling. The rudder was heavy, though with the help of a line she was powering along.

I was yelling with excitement hanging on to the tiller as she gracefully heeled and came alive on the open river in the clear air.  

This was a special moment for me here in Egypt.

On the way back, running with the wind, we returned on the west side of Elephantine Island. It was a narrow congested passage. The current was quite fast, the large sail area of the Cleopatra saw her making good passage through the narrows against the flow.  

She had a steel hull and a good load of large rocks in her stern for ballast.

It is surprising how beamy she was and the length, some 35ft or more .

It was such an enjoyable time, Moustaf and Ahmid were given a good amount of money above what they wanted. They were both very thankful.

Whilst here, and out on the streets people are always hassling me for Felucca rides or taxis or to look in their shop. Some are quite rude and disrespectful. It can be tiring.

At these times, it would be easy to form a general dislike for everyone here. On other occasions, people are genuine and friendly. This is so comforting and always sees me say good-bye with warmth in my mind.

Being alone here with a negative attitude could become quite frightening. When out on the streets many emotions are experienced following contact with the locals.

I have to be hard on some people, paying too much for goods soon adds up if you allow it to happen all the time.

Last night here in the Nubian Oasis, a football team arrived. We were watching Ghana play Algeria on the TV in the reception area. I said we play in the Asia group.

On asking what group this was, they replied “this is the black group” it was a funny moment, we all laughed.

My feelings here contain much sorrow for the people of Egypt, many are incredibly poor. Presently there are few tourists here.

Along the rivers edge there are many huge riverboats tied up just rotting at their moorings. Before the 2011 revolution, they must have all been busy.

My mind paints a picture of the Nile back then when it must have been full of sail and these large vessels.

Many people talk of this time when traders and watermen alike had money enough for most things.

Presently, the words from the NZ gov on Eqypt are: “We advise against all travel”.

The Australian gov words are: “Reconsider your need to travel”

In this respect, the people here relying on tourism do not have alot of hope of seeing many people from these two countries. Though, Russians, Japanese and Chinese, along with Europeans do visit, though not in huge numbers.

The police here have made sure that I have been safe. This has been reassuring.

At no time have I felt really unsafe. Occasionally, when surrounded by dozens of people whilst stopping to eat on the road has been a little unsettling. Mainly due to the thought of having something stolen from the bike. My pump and other easily detachable items are now being carried in the panniers.

Being followed by young men on motos wanting money has also had its anxieties. My lack of interest always sees them fall off and return to their village in the end.
A heaped tablespoon of ground turmeric, honey, milk powder and boiled water is being drunk each day, in an effort to relieve the joint pain. Which has subsided a great deal, thankfully.

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So fresh, from the little bakery where the people are queued in the background. 1 pound buys five or six of these.
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