16/1/2015 Luxor to Idfu
D122, T7, Av19.70, Max31, 35460, 581
Cool tail wind sunny
Breakfast was enjoyed with another couple who were cycling to the Valley of the Kings. So, it was 0900 before Luxor city was departed. The decision was taken to cross to the west side of the river to enjoy some riding off the main south road and hopefully not be hassled by the police.
The bridge at El Dabiya was used to get to the west side.
Once on this road, the riding was a sheer pleasure with the sun out and tail winds.
The road was smooth and busy with tractors pulling one or two trailers loaded high with sugar cane. Tuk Tuks were common as were donkeys.
Many people were seen in cane paddocks cutting it by hand.
Donkeys were carrying cane on many occasions.
Dozens of children were calling out.
Most difficult of all was guys in their 20’s following me from towns either on motos or the 3 wheeler motos with a tray. These guys were giving me the thumb and two finger rub and saying money, money, money or Euro, Euro, Euro.
They were also using the word Alibaba, which probably meant I had a way to riches.
Some followed me for 5km or more, I would totally ignore them. I said to one group on a tray moto. I will give you my friendship but not my money. That soon saw them move on.
Many young men had this attitude and yet others were friendly.
I stopped in a small village to get a drink. Immediately 20 kids were all crowded around. They were a good bunch of kids. Though, they liked touching things. The older people men always shoo them away, it is quite amusing.
They scatter like birds.
Lunch and tea was had in Isna, here time was spent with a man about my age who could speak some English.
This morning on awaking, walking was really difficult. My feet felt like they had been in a vice all night being squeezed across the base of the toes, a bit like being in a narrow ski boot.
It was a relapse of the Chikungunya.
So all day I had to take care when getting off the bike as I could not put too much weight on my feet. It was ever so painful.
Riding was fine, as my feet were not supporting any weight.
As I scribe this tonight they are still very painful. This could go on for a few months yet having spoken with people in Nic who said it can last some time.
Leaving Isna, the water front road was taken, there were a couple of large tourist boats heading down stream. This was a port. Just downstream was a large concrete bridge that was too low for these boats to pass. I figured they had done the Aswan and return tour.
This road was running alongside the river.
It soon deteriorated to gravel. There were people all along the route. Friday is like the weekend here.
This continued for some 5-10km, then a right turn was taken and this got me back onto the main road again.
This west bank road is more of a working road, whereas on the east side is the main road.
There was always something to see. Though, care had to be taken as it was a busy place. A village was every 5 to 10km.
In the villages is where these guys would start following. Most just got sick of my attitude of completely ignoring them.
On the other hand, older men were extremely friendly.
On arrival at 1630 in Idfu, I asked about hotels, the first one had, steep stairs just off the street. This was no good.
I headed into the main street and found another one, it was also just to awkward.
The Hotel Horus was found, it seemed all hotels had steps off the streets. Three annoying kids had followed me into the building. I parked the bike in the corridor and told them to leave and walked up one flight, they had come back and were trying to steal things of the bike. I yelled at them. They scattered.
I went out on the street to find someone to help me get the bike up 3 flights to the reception. A young guy came to help. These 3 young boys came back, in no uncertain terms I told them to get out of here.
They were scared and ran off.
Once at reception, the owner tried to get me to pay 300 pounds, I said c’mon, I pay less than 200 for hotels like this. I offered 150 and he came to 180. Though, it cost me another 10 to get him to help me up another three flights of stairs.
The bike is now fully loaded with food, up to 5 days of pasta, milk powder, tuna and sardines, the weight is too much for me to get up more than a couple of flights of stairs, my back has to be considered.
The room is very comfortable with a good hot shower.
My first impressions of Idfu were not good.
Sadly, for all the friendly people, there are just as many people who are only interested in wanting money. Totally ignoring these kind of people, is for me the only way to give them the message. It seems rude but there is no other way.
A hot shower was taken and a huge pasta dish enjoyed in the room. It was so nice to be off the streets.
My cargo nets on the back of the bike have been a saviour, as people cannot get at things on the back whilst I am not watching. Some bread went missing somewhere, in the crowds.
My feet are still really aching, hopefully, tomorrow they will have settled down.
Riding here is proving quite a challenge. A challenge so far being met, head on. Vigilance and foward thinking are always necessary when getting off the bike as on many occasions people, especially young boys gather round very quick. It is at these times, temptation may get the better of a few of them.
Putting all this aside, riding today was a pleasure on this rural road. A great tail wind pushed me along all day and there was so much activity to be observed.
17/1/2015 Idfu to Aswan
D131, T7, av19.82, Max56, 35591, 712
Just a magic day, mild sunny and tailwinds
The pain experienced last night had me huddled up in bed. My mind was thinking about all sorts of things.
Getting up to go to the toilet in the middle of the night, walking, clasping onto things as I proceeded was the only way to get there.
The pain in my feet was excruciating. Back in bed, sleep did come later.
My knees were also sore. There is no pattern to this pain. It strikes different places at will, my shoulders, hands, knees and feet.
Two Ibuprofen tab were taken, this helped
A positive attitude is all that can be used against this.
The pasta was finished off for breakfast with coffee.
Down on the street, a young guy was summoned with the waving of 15EP to come and help me with the bike.
By the time we got down from the 4th floor he was worn out, he had earnt his money. My roll, was to apply the brakes and steer the bike down the worm stone stairs, at least the landings had some space to turn the heavy bike.
Once moving about the pain eases, on the bike it is no real problem. However, activities off the bike have to be carried out with caution.
It was decided to head back to the west side of the Nile and get on the highway, so to get to Aswan in good time.
Once over the bridge, amongst the early morning mist and smoke, a right turn was made, progress to the south was being made again. Some 5km on, two policemen pulled me up.
They told me to go back onto the east side of the river. No amount of persuasion via my translatorand a few words would see them change their minds.
So back, I had to go. It was still only 0800, so there was no real hurry. A large group of foreign cyclists were seen crossing the bridge earlier. They turned out to be doing the Tour de Afrique, a supported kind of race from Cairo to Cape Town over 4 months.
Back in town, traffic was negotiated again. It did not take long to get out of the urban area and into more relaxed surroundings. As usual, a canal was followed constantly.
Children were relentlessly calling out.
The day was mild compared to others, riding now without my raincoat is possible.
Woollen gloves are being worn.
The road was much quieter and without people asking for money.
A second breakfast was enjoyed, some 25km into the ride. The guys were so friendly at the little roadside cafe.
They didn’t overcharge either. This always sees me riding of with a renewed warmth towards the people.
Little gestures go such a long way.
A great tailwind was hurrying me along, at 26km/hr there was no apparent wind on my face.
As usual, there was so much to see. Cane again was the main activity. The road soon started heading to the western fringes of the irrigated area of the Nile valley. The scenery changed dramatically to a desert environment. The riding suddenly became so peaceful, it was great to be away from people and just take in some new vistas.
There were even a few hills to be climbed, the max speed today indicates there were some nice downhill runs.
There are earthenware earns in shelters every 10km or so along the road. The water in these is for travellers, it is so cool and tasty, without chlorine having been added.
My bottles were kept topped up. In the mild conditions, not huge amounts of water were drunk.
One landscape before me, was just flat desert with hundreds of pylons conducting power from the Aswan dams. They were running in all directions, one line headed to a huge complex in the distance belching black smoke from a couple of tall stacks.
There were large areas where agriculture was just starting out with young date palms and other crops, though always plenty of animal feed. New piping could be seen, to irrigate these small plots. This sandy loam just needs water.
Men and boys were seen carrying freshly cut feed on their donkeys, every one of these people and their animals makes for great photographic subject matter.
Most people were greeted. Everyone responded positively.
At times, the road came close to the Nile. The contrasting desert and the beautiful blue waters fringed with palms, were breath taking. As were the green crops also with the desert just beyond.
Small villages were passed through.
At one point, the road came close to the river in an area with no housing, just a track to the water’s edge over packed sand.
Here a swim was enjoyed in the remarkably clear and not unbearably cold waters. It felt so refreshing.
A tin of sardines was enjoyed under a clump of palms. A man walked by and just welcomed me to Egypt.
Having had my little camp stool stolen makes this kind of activity so difficult, especially in places that offer little to sit on other than sand.
The riding was still through the fringes of the desert.
A cold orange juice was had in one village, bread was also bought, an older guy on his donkey stopped to buy something. His donkey loved the bread I offered to him.
Once back in the open desert again, the roadside on the outskirts of the towns was littered with rubbish and sun dried carcasses of dogs and many cattle, interestingly no camel carcasses were observed.
The three wheeled motos with a tray on the back are a very common work vehicle here. All chinese built.
Soon the huge cables of the Aswan Suspension bridge could be seen above the Nile on my left. There were a number of large river cruise boats plying the waters.
Nearing the bridge and the feeder roads leading to it, the police stopped me to ask where I was going.
They directed me over the bridge. Here, I spoke with a couple of the guys who were in the assisted bike tour, they had ridden here on the east side.
In hindsight, the police who redirected me near Idfu did me such a favour. This stretch today would have to be the highlight in the trip from Cairo to Aswan.
It was a long ride on the west bank into downtown Aswan. Closer to town the Corniche was ridden. Great views were offered across the river to the desert.
A few large hotels occupied the river’s edge. My smart phone and the Google maps is a great help when in these cities, as many streets are not named prominently, if at all.
A huge mosque was passed on the way into town. The twin minarets contrasted so piercingly against the rich blue cloudless sky.
After about an hour and a half the Nubian Oasis Hotel was found and booked. It is very basic but central to everything, the Aswan Souk is right outside.
Once settled in the hotel room again up a few floors. Luckily, the bike sitting vertical on its back wheel and my gear could be fitted in the lift.
The lifts in these hotel have to be ridden with care as there is no inside door and the floors and other doors move past, if you caught a piece of clothing on a wood splinter or nail, consequences would see you disrobed at least.
In the room, it was great too just lie on the bed.
The foot pain returned once I stopped moving. It had been a big day.
Dinner was enjoyed across the road in a street stall and a greatly interrupted wander around the souk was enjoyed. People were hounding me throughout its length.
Once back in the room and on the bed I was asleep unbelievably quick.
18/1/2015 Aswan
Awaking in the night by the pain in my legs and feet, once again it was a painful trip to the toilet.
I really can’t believe this is happening to me. I have always had some joint pain though insignificant and not pre occupying, this is something else.
In the morning, I hobbled into the lovely hot waters of the ancient shower.
My sandals were worn. Today, a visa for The Sudan had to be obtained and the boat to Wadi Halfa booked.
Copies of my passport were made and 12 passport photos bought. Most countries now will require the both.
Out at the Sudanese consulate, which has recently moved. Google maps are not correct.
Ask a taxi driver to take you past the stadium and look for a high rise building on the left with a large sign TRAVCO on its side. The consulate is in behind this. The taxi fare should be 20EP from town.
Once out here they took my photos etc and said come back on Tuesday to pick up the visa, the cost is $US50.
As it turns out the ferry to Wadi Halfa in Sudan only leaves on Sundays, so I will be here for a week. It will be time to see if this arthritic problem subsides.
I am going to do my best not to let a mosquito dampen my spirits.
People here are great, everso friendly. I enjoy mixing it with the locals in the out of the way places.
By comparison, a mini bus with locals back from the Sudanese embassy was 1EP.
People enjoy hearing the few words I know.
The morning was spent hobbling about, on one occasion, I could hardly walk from a taxi, the pain is that bad when I have been sitting down for half an hour or more.
Some 600mg Ibuprofen tabs were bought, an hour later the pain subsided.
Prescription drugs are very cheap here over the counter, this was $A3
I am aware of the side effects of this stuff, it is not good. Exercising, in particular, cycling can cause stomach lining bleeding among other nasty problems.
Its use is going to be kept to a minimum.
D122, T7, Av19.70, Max31, 35460, 581
Cool tail wind sunny
Breakfast was enjoyed with another couple who were cycling to the Valley of the Kings. So, it was 0900 before Luxor city was departed. The decision was taken to cross to the west side of the river to enjoy some riding off the main south road and hopefully not be hassled by the police.
The bridge at El Dabiya was used to get to the west side.
Once on this road, the riding was a sheer pleasure with the sun out and tail winds.
The road was smooth and busy with tractors pulling one or two trailers loaded high with sugar cane. Tuk Tuks were common as were donkeys.
Many people were seen in cane paddocks cutting it by hand.
Donkeys were carrying cane on many occasions.
Dozens of children were calling out.
Most difficult of all was guys in their 20’s following me from towns either on motos or the 3 wheeler motos with a tray. These guys were giving me the thumb and two finger rub and saying money, money, money or Euro, Euro, Euro.
They were also using the word Alibaba, which probably meant I had a way to riches.
Some followed me for 5km or more, I would totally ignore them. I said to one group on a tray moto. I will give you my friendship but not my money. That soon saw them move on.
Many young men had this attitude and yet others were friendly.
I stopped in a small village to get a drink. Immediately 20 kids were all crowded around. They were a good bunch of kids. Though, they liked touching things. The older people men always shoo them away, it is quite amusing.
They scatter like birds.
Lunch and tea was had in Isna, here time was spent with a man about my age who could speak some English.
This morning on awaking, walking was really difficult. My feet felt like they had been in a vice all night being squeezed across the base of the toes, a bit like being in a narrow ski boot.
It was a relapse of the Chikungunya.
So all day I had to take care when getting off the bike as I could not put too much weight on my feet. It was ever so painful.
Riding was fine, as my feet were not supporting any weight.
As I scribe this tonight they are still very painful. This could go on for a few months yet having spoken with people in Nic who said it can last some time.
Leaving Isna, the water front road was taken, there were a couple of large tourist boats heading down stream. This was a port. Just downstream was a large concrete bridge that was too low for these boats to pass. I figured they had done the Aswan and return tour.
This road was running alongside the river.
It soon deteriorated to gravel. There were people all along the route. Friday is like the weekend here.
This continued for some 5-10km, then a right turn was taken and this got me back onto the main road again.
This west bank road is more of a working road, whereas on the east side is the main road.
There was always something to see. Though, care had to be taken as it was a busy place. A village was every 5 to 10km.
In the villages is where these guys would start following. Most just got sick of my attitude of completely ignoring them.
On the other hand, older men were extremely friendly.
On arrival at 1630 in Idfu, I asked about hotels, the first one had, steep stairs just off the street. This was no good.
I headed into the main street and found another one, it was also just to awkward.
The Hotel Horus was found, it seemed all hotels had steps off the streets. Three annoying kids had followed me into the building. I parked the bike in the corridor and told them to leave and walked up one flight, they had come back and were trying to steal things of the bike. I yelled at them. They scattered.
I went out on the street to find someone to help me get the bike up 3 flights to the reception. A young guy came to help. These 3 young boys came back, in no uncertain terms I told them to get out of here.
They were scared and ran off.
Once at reception, the owner tried to get me to pay 300 pounds, I said c’mon, I pay less than 200 for hotels like this. I offered 150 and he came to 180. Though, it cost me another 10 to get him to help me up another three flights of stairs.
The bike is now fully loaded with food, up to 5 days of pasta, milk powder, tuna and sardines, the weight is too much for me to get up more than a couple of flights of stairs, my back has to be considered.
The room is very comfortable with a good hot shower.
My first impressions of Idfu were not good.
Sadly, for all the friendly people, there are just as many people who are only interested in wanting money. Totally ignoring these kind of people, is for me the only way to give them the message. It seems rude but there is no other way.
A hot shower was taken and a huge pasta dish enjoyed in the room. It was so nice to be off the streets.
My cargo nets on the back of the bike have been a saviour, as people cannot get at things on the back whilst I am not watching. Some bread went missing somewhere, in the crowds.
My feet are still really aching, hopefully, tomorrow they will have settled down.
Riding here is proving quite a challenge. A challenge so far being met, head on. Vigilance and foward thinking are always necessary when getting off the bike as on many occasions people, especially young boys gather round very quick. It is at these times, temptation may get the better of a few of them.
Putting all this aside, riding today was a pleasure on this rural road. A great tail wind pushed me along all day and there was so much activity to be observed.
17/1/2015 Idfu to Aswan
D131, T7, av19.82, Max56, 35591, 712
Just a magic day, mild sunny and tailwinds
The pain experienced last night had me huddled up in bed. My mind was thinking about all sorts of things.
Getting up to go to the toilet in the middle of the night, walking, clasping onto things as I proceeded was the only way to get there.
The pain in my feet was excruciating. Back in bed, sleep did come later.
My knees were also sore. There is no pattern to this pain. It strikes different places at will, my shoulders, hands, knees and feet.
Two Ibuprofen tab were taken, this helped
A positive attitude is all that can be used against this.
The pasta was finished off for breakfast with coffee.
Down on the street, a young guy was summoned with the waving of 15EP to come and help me with the bike.
By the time we got down from the 4th floor he was worn out, he had earnt his money. My roll, was to apply the brakes and steer the bike down the worm stone stairs, at least the landings had some space to turn the heavy bike.
Once moving about the pain eases, on the bike it is no real problem. However, activities off the bike have to be carried out with caution.
It was decided to head back to the west side of the Nile and get on the highway, so to get to Aswan in good time.
Once over the bridge, amongst the early morning mist and smoke, a right turn was made, progress to the south was being made again. Some 5km on, two policemen pulled me up.
They told me to go back onto the east side of the river. No amount of persuasion via my translatorand a few words would see them change their minds.
So back, I had to go. It was still only 0800, so there was no real hurry. A large group of foreign cyclists were seen crossing the bridge earlier. They turned out to be doing the Tour de Afrique, a supported kind of race from Cairo to Cape Town over 4 months.
Back in town, traffic was negotiated again. It did not take long to get out of the urban area and into more relaxed surroundings. As usual, a canal was followed constantly.
Children were relentlessly calling out.
The day was mild compared to others, riding now without my raincoat is possible.
Woollen gloves are being worn.
The road was much quieter and without people asking for money.
A second breakfast was enjoyed, some 25km into the ride. The guys were so friendly at the little roadside cafe.
They didn’t overcharge either. This always sees me riding of with a renewed warmth towards the people.
Little gestures go such a long way.
A great tailwind was hurrying me along, at 26km/hr there was no apparent wind on my face.
As usual, there was so much to see. Cane again was the main activity. The road soon started heading to the western fringes of the irrigated area of the Nile valley. The scenery changed dramatically to a desert environment. The riding suddenly became so peaceful, it was great to be away from people and just take in some new vistas.
There were even a few hills to be climbed, the max speed today indicates there were some nice downhill runs.
There are earthenware earns in shelters every 10km or so along the road. The water in these is for travellers, it is so cool and tasty, without chlorine having been added.
My bottles were kept topped up. In the mild conditions, not huge amounts of water were drunk.
One landscape before me, was just flat desert with hundreds of pylons conducting power from the Aswan dams. They were running in all directions, one line headed to a huge complex in the distance belching black smoke from a couple of tall stacks.
There were large areas where agriculture was just starting out with young date palms and other crops, though always plenty of animal feed. New piping could be seen, to irrigate these small plots. This sandy loam just needs water.
Men and boys were seen carrying freshly cut feed on their donkeys, every one of these people and their animals makes for great photographic subject matter.
Most people were greeted. Everyone responded positively.
At times, the road came close to the Nile. The contrasting desert and the beautiful blue waters fringed with palms, were breath taking. As were the green crops also with the desert just beyond.
Small villages were passed through.
At one point, the road came close to the river in an area with no housing, just a track to the water’s edge over packed sand.
Here a swim was enjoyed in the remarkably clear and not unbearably cold waters. It felt so refreshing.
A tin of sardines was enjoyed under a clump of palms. A man walked by and just welcomed me to Egypt.
Having had my little camp stool stolen makes this kind of activity so difficult, especially in places that offer little to sit on other than sand.
The riding was still through the fringes of the desert.
A cold orange juice was had in one village, bread was also bought, an older guy on his donkey stopped to buy something. His donkey loved the bread I offered to him.
Once back in the open desert again, the roadside on the outskirts of the towns was littered with rubbish and sun dried carcasses of dogs and many cattle, interestingly no camel carcasses were observed.
The three wheeled motos with a tray on the back are a very common work vehicle here. All chinese built.
Soon the huge cables of the Aswan Suspension bridge could be seen above the Nile on my left. There were a number of large river cruise boats plying the waters.
Nearing the bridge and the feeder roads leading to it, the police stopped me to ask where I was going.
They directed me over the bridge. Here, I spoke with a couple of the guys who were in the assisted bike tour, they had ridden here on the east side.
In hindsight, the police who redirected me near Idfu did me such a favour. This stretch today would have to be the highlight in the trip from Cairo to Aswan.
It was a long ride on the west bank into downtown Aswan. Closer to town the Corniche was ridden. Great views were offered across the river to the desert.
A few large hotels occupied the river’s edge. My smart phone and the Google maps is a great help when in these cities, as many streets are not named prominently, if at all.
A huge mosque was passed on the way into town. The twin minarets contrasted so piercingly against the rich blue cloudless sky.
After about an hour and a half the Nubian Oasis Hotel was found and booked. It is very basic but central to everything, the Aswan Souk is right outside.
Once settled in the hotel room again up a few floors. Luckily, the bike sitting vertical on its back wheel and my gear could be fitted in the lift.
The lifts in these hotel have to be ridden with care as there is no inside door and the floors and other doors move past, if you caught a piece of clothing on a wood splinter or nail, consequences would see you disrobed at least.
In the room, it was great too just lie on the bed.
The foot pain returned once I stopped moving. It had been a big day.
Dinner was enjoyed across the road in a street stall and a greatly interrupted wander around the souk was enjoyed. People were hounding me throughout its length.
Once back in the room and on the bed I was asleep unbelievably quick.
18/1/2015 Aswan
Awaking in the night by the pain in my legs and feet, once again it was a painful trip to the toilet.
I really can’t believe this is happening to me. I have always had some joint pain though insignificant and not pre occupying, this is something else.
In the morning, I hobbled into the lovely hot waters of the ancient shower.
My sandals were worn. Today, a visa for The Sudan had to be obtained and the boat to Wadi Halfa booked.
Copies of my passport were made and 12 passport photos bought. Most countries now will require the both.
Out at the Sudanese consulate, which has recently moved. Google maps are not correct.
Ask a taxi driver to take you past the stadium and look for a high rise building on the left with a large sign TRAVCO on its side. The consulate is in behind this. The taxi fare should be 20EP from town.
Once out here they took my photos etc and said come back on Tuesday to pick up the visa, the cost is $US50.
As it turns out the ferry to Wadi Halfa in Sudan only leaves on Sundays, so I will be here for a week. It will be time to see if this arthritic problem subsides.
I am going to do my best not to let a mosquito dampen my spirits.
People here are great, everso friendly. I enjoy mixing it with the locals in the out of the way places.
By comparison, a mini bus with locals back from the Sudanese embassy was 1EP.
People enjoy hearing the few words I know.
The morning was spent hobbling about, on one occasion, I could hardly walk from a taxi, the pain is that bad when I have been sitting down for half an hour or more.
Some 600mg Ibuprofen tabs were bought, an hour later the pain subsided.
Prescription drugs are very cheap here over the counter, this was $A3
I am aware of the side effects of this stuff, it is not good. Exercising, in particular, cycling can cause stomach lining bleeding among other nasty problems.
Its use is going to be kept to a minimum.
Quite overwhelming. Only to be overshadowed by amazement at the work put into these monolithic constructions
Sunset in Luxor
We just don't create this kind of stuff anymore
The Nile and these unique sail boats are nearly always framed by desert.
downtown Luxor, a restoration in progress.
fresh cut cane, stock grazing the stuble.
Such contrast, just add water.
These white blocks are used everywhere in construction, they are actually very heavy. Once again the contrasting colours just begged for a photo.
Just on the fringes of the irrigated land what a difference without water.
His donkey loved my bread.
The road side outside villages was littered with waste, accompanied by dead cows and dogs, obvious by their absence were camel carcasses.
Across the bridge and heading to town, original dwellings.
Getting closer to downtown Aswan.
The rich, vivid blue sky is always follows the sun day after day. Minarets on a new riverside mosque, getting closer to town.
Synonymous with the Nile, Feluccas
Looking downstream, Aswan. The river boats ply between here and Luxor.
Survival food, I have to have my greens, fresh beans, peas from the pod, butter and lots of pepper. Blanched.
From the west side
Cleopatra, a lovely old sailboat, steel hulled.
|
Live and let live, and everything will be fine!
The limestone within these hills allowed for easy excavation.
Tragically for Egypt we had this place almost to ourselves.
All the traders near these attractions were once very busy. the 2001 revolution put a stop to this. If only they had a leader back then, the outcome may have been different.
Colours of indigo preserved for thousands of years after a coat of wax back then.
Along way down with a fully loaded touring bike, Idfu
Don't know where their owner was but they seemed content.
These water urns were placed along the road every 10km or more, the chlorine free water was delicious and remarkably cold. The evaporation on the weeping urns kept the water cool.
So happy to be in open spaces without people everywhere. 20km nth of Aswan.
This felt so good, fresh but not unbearable.
The east side, main road and rail track. Train heading north to Cairo.
The Aswan bridge, crossing this took me to Aswan city.
Aswan bridge, an impressive structure.
take a mini bus or taxi (20EP) north to here, the Sudanese Consulate is behind this building.
A delicacy caught in the Nasser dam. they are expensive.
My home for a week, the Nubian Oasis Hotel. Very central and reasonably priced.
Plenty of natural light and gets the sun all afternoon.
Nile river scene Aswan.
I have yet to use this apparatus. I'm a fan of toilet paper.!!
Aswan from the Princes tombs west side.
At the helm on Cleopatra.
Heavy traffic on the west side of Elephantine Island heading upstream to Aswan.
Ahmid, Skipper. She does runs from Aswan to Luxor with groups over a few days.
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The waters from the Nile now join those from both ends of the Mississippi, the Beagle Channel and the Amazon. All "along for the ride"
Aswan 20-24/1/2015
It has been a long stop here in Aswan. This time here has given me space to reflect on life here in the Nile Valley and in Egypt in general.
Not wanting to visit many tourist sites due to the need to see my funds last, few such attractions have been frequented.
Much more enjoyment comes from wandering about talking to people and seeing how they live.
All my gear has been checked and essential supplies bought. Mainly raisins, porridge and good milk powder. The Nestle brand Nido, is bought, as it readily dissolves in hot coffee.
I am not sure what to expect in The Sudan.
Other local milk powders, though cheaper tend to go lumpy when introduced to hot water.
With the sun getting into my room all afternoon, it has been an ideal opportunity to wash all my clothes.
The hot water arrangement in my room is a wall cylinder, the water is heated by electricity.
It is quite dangerous, as it is heated to boiling point. Getting under the shower, the perfect temperature has to be carefully calibrated beforehand, just a tiny twist of the hot tap can render the water dangerously hot.
My camera flash has ceased to work, which is very annoying, as I use flash often. A replacement cannot be obtained here.
I had a year’s supply of movies and TV shows plus all my photos on a hard drive which has crashed, this is such a pain. I am going to have to carry it until someone has the gear to recover the data. I bought a 1Tb drive to replace it. I was told no one here in Aswan who can perform this task.
Out on the streets, time has been taken to sit in coffee shops and just watch life here.
On Friday, the start of the weekend. I was up early just wandering about. Once a coffee was bought and a seat on the footpath secured, life was observed.
Many parts of the street edges are littered with spit. Dust and rubbish are also everywhere.
Rain sometimes only falls two days a year, this enhances the dirtiness of some locales. So many men were smoking, this and spitting are often related. Many people appear to have winter colds.
People with their donkey and carts were passing, some with produce on the cart, others just with friends.
Men were setting up stalls, some fruit stalls were open. Much time is spent stacking and presenting the fruit in these stalls. Often the best mandarins are at the front of the mound, when purchasing the fruit, quite a different product is sold. Care has to be taken when buying fruit.
Right now, strawberries have just been harvested, they are deliciously sweet.
Being a weekend, quite a few women and their children were out and about early.
The Abaya garment, (the black cloak for woman worn over clothing when in public, common in gulf countries) is prevalent, however many woman just wear it without the full face niqab, though almost all woman wear head scarves (Hijabs).
The burqa common in Afghanistan comes in other colours, here the Abaya is almost always black.
Most men my age wear the Thobe, a long robe where the top is tailored like a shirt, but is ankle length and loose. Sandals with some kind of headwear generally accompany this.
Then, on the other hand, just as many young guys and girls are dressed in skin tight fashion jeans and shirts. Many men my age are also casually dressed, some in suits. It really is a preoccupation just observing the many dress styles here.
The pocket bread, Eesh baladi, is whole meal and so nice, when fresh, it can just be eaten on its own. The sandwich bars use this.
The local sandwich price is 1 pound ( very few places will charge tourists this price) for a sandwich filled with tomato salad, fried eggplant and Falafal balls crushed. Often small white bread long rolls are sold filled with a meat and capsicum mix.
The food is often spicy, much to my liking.
Generally, in the background the callings from mosques can be heard. Many small eateries have droning words from the Koran playing on their stereo systems.
All food is served by people using just their bare hands and often smoking simultaneously. No one seems to care, me amongst them.
A bread shop visited early in the morning had all their fresh bread laid out on the footpath.
I chose my bread from a clean section of the sidewalk!! It is a great place to build up ones immunity to bugs and germs here.
Once again, the little donkeys that do so much work fascinate me. They are generally pulling a cart running on 4 or 2 car axles, constructed of wood. Some animals are so tiny. Often the carts are so heavily loaded. Luckily, there are few hills here.
Having seen them taking these heavy loads down slopes, it is not a nice sight, there are no brakes on the carts and the poor animals are doing their best to stay on their feet whilst their owner is alongside trying to slow the cart.
They never complain. I suppose they can’t!!!
It is quite noticeable that the men don’t pay much attention to the woman on the streets. The clothing the woman wear, leaves a huge amount to the imagination.
In public, there is little outward affection shown between men and woman, generally the woman are walking with one another.
People are always sweeping their little plot near their stalls in the souk or sprinkling water to dampen the dust on the street.
Now, when walking in the souk few people hassle me. They know I am not a shopper for things not needed.
Having said all this, life and the people here are so, so, so, different to the way we go about things, and how we live.
In an ideal world, we both need to respect how each of our cultures go about life. Much of this respect should come from our side.
We don’t live in an ideal world, sadly.
Oliver, a young Swiss cyclist spent time with me one night, he is taking the bus to Wadi Halfa and will be ahead of me. We hope to catch up later.
I spent a morning trying to find a replacement for my stolen stool. Stall holders and shop keepers were everso helpful. One of sorts has been found. I could not bear camping without some kind of seat.
One morning, while waiting to buy my ferry ticket to Wadi Halfa, in need of a toilet, a guy was stopped, I pointed to my groin. He said, “No fucking here”. I quickly, in no uncertain fashion, clearly enacted my need to use a toilet. It was a funny moment.
For me anyway.
People, like in most countries, love it when their language is used. The few words I know are spoken as much as possible.
This puts a smile on people’s faces.
Often, as usual the first question is, where you from.
One day a visit was made to the Princes tombs across the river on the west bank.
5EP over and 1EP back, watching the price is a full time job here.
A climb to the top of the hill was made. Here expansive views back across the river to Aswan were taken in. The city of some 280,000 people blends in with the desert. The mosques and churches, apart from the 5 star hotels are the most prominent buildings in the cityscape.
The other buildings are mostly just shades of brown, like the desert.
On the way back across the river, a large graceful felucca crossed our bow and gybed.
It was an exhilarating moment, the “Cleopatra” was a sight to see.
The next morning was spent trying to find the captain of this vessel. Some three hours later, he was found sitting on a wall along the Cornish.
We arranged a sail at 1500 that afternoon. A breeze is often blowing at this time of day.
She was a craft capable of carrying 50 people. Just myself, the owner and the captain were onboard. They let me take the helm for the full two and a half hours whilst plying the Nile.
Going down stream, we tacked into the norwester of 10-15 knots. It was such a pleasure to see the huge cloth sail full of wind. The port tack saw her heeling. The rudder was heavy, though with the help of a line she was powering along.
I was yelling with excitement hanging on to the tiller as she gracefully heeled and came alive on the open river in the clear air.
This was a special moment for me here in Egypt.
On the way back, running with the wind, we returned on the west side of Elephantine Island. It was a narrow congested passage. The current was quite fast, the large sail area of the Cleopatra saw her making good passage through the narrows against the flow.
She had a steel hull and a good load of large rocks in her stern for ballast.
It is surprising how beamy she was and the length, some 35ft or more .
It was such an enjoyable time, Moustaf and Ahmid were given a good amount of money above what they wanted. They were both very thankful.
Whilst here, and out on the streets people are always hassling me for Felucca rides or taxis or to look in their shop. Some are quite rude and disrespectful. It can be tiring.
At these times, it would be easy to form a general dislike for everyone here. On other occasions, people are genuine and friendly. This is so comforting and always sees me say good-bye with warmth in my mind.
Being alone here with a negative attitude could become quite frightening. When out on the streets many emotions are experienced following contact with the locals.
I have to be hard on some people, paying too much for goods soon adds up if you allow it to happen all the time.
Last night here in the Nubian Oasis, a football team arrived. We were watching Ghana play Algeria on the TV in the reception area. I said we play in the Asia group.
On asking what group this was, they replied “this is the black group” it was a funny moment, we all laughed.
My feelings here contain much sorrow for the people of Egypt, many are incredibly poor. Presently there are few tourists here.
Along the rivers edge there are many huge riverboats tied up just rotting at their moorings. Before the 2011 revolution, they must have all been busy.
My mind paints a picture of the Nile back then when it must have been full of sail and these large vessels.
Many people talk of this time when traders and watermen alike had money enough for most things.
Presently, the words from the NZ gov on Eqypt are: “We advise against all travel”.
The Australian gov words are: “Reconsider your need to travel”
In this respect, the people here relying on tourism do not have alot of hope of seeing many people from these two countries. Though, Russians, Japanese and Chinese, along with Europeans do visit, though not in huge numbers.
The police here have made sure that I have been safe. This has been reassuring.
At no time have I felt really unsafe. Occasionally, when surrounded by dozens of people whilst stopping to eat on the road has been a little unsettling. Mainly due to the thought of having something stolen from the bike. My pump and other easily detachable items are now being carried in the panniers.
Being followed by young men on motos wanting money has also had its anxieties. My lack of interest always sees them fall off and return to their village in the end.
A heaped tablespoon of ground turmeric, honey, milk powder and boiled water is being drunk each day, in an effort to relieve the joint pain. Which has subsided a great deal, thankfully.
It has been a long stop here in Aswan. This time here has given me space to reflect on life here in the Nile Valley and in Egypt in general.
Not wanting to visit many tourist sites due to the need to see my funds last, few such attractions have been frequented.
Much more enjoyment comes from wandering about talking to people and seeing how they live.
All my gear has been checked and essential supplies bought. Mainly raisins, porridge and good milk powder. The Nestle brand Nido, is bought, as it readily dissolves in hot coffee.
I am not sure what to expect in The Sudan.
Other local milk powders, though cheaper tend to go lumpy when introduced to hot water.
With the sun getting into my room all afternoon, it has been an ideal opportunity to wash all my clothes.
The hot water arrangement in my room is a wall cylinder, the water is heated by electricity.
It is quite dangerous, as it is heated to boiling point. Getting under the shower, the perfect temperature has to be carefully calibrated beforehand, just a tiny twist of the hot tap can render the water dangerously hot.
My camera flash has ceased to work, which is very annoying, as I use flash often. A replacement cannot be obtained here.
I had a year’s supply of movies and TV shows plus all my photos on a hard drive which has crashed, this is such a pain. I am going to have to carry it until someone has the gear to recover the data. I bought a 1Tb drive to replace it. I was told no one here in Aswan who can perform this task.
Out on the streets, time has been taken to sit in coffee shops and just watch life here.
On Friday, the start of the weekend. I was up early just wandering about. Once a coffee was bought and a seat on the footpath secured, life was observed.
Many parts of the street edges are littered with spit. Dust and rubbish are also everywhere.
Rain sometimes only falls two days a year, this enhances the dirtiness of some locales. So many men were smoking, this and spitting are often related. Many people appear to have winter colds.
People with their donkey and carts were passing, some with produce on the cart, others just with friends.
Men were setting up stalls, some fruit stalls were open. Much time is spent stacking and presenting the fruit in these stalls. Often the best mandarins are at the front of the mound, when purchasing the fruit, quite a different product is sold. Care has to be taken when buying fruit.
Right now, strawberries have just been harvested, they are deliciously sweet.
Being a weekend, quite a few women and their children were out and about early.
The Abaya garment, (the black cloak for woman worn over clothing when in public, common in gulf countries) is prevalent, however many woman just wear it without the full face niqab, though almost all woman wear head scarves (Hijabs).
The burqa common in Afghanistan comes in other colours, here the Abaya is almost always black.
Most men my age wear the Thobe, a long robe where the top is tailored like a shirt, but is ankle length and loose. Sandals with some kind of headwear generally accompany this.
Then, on the other hand, just as many young guys and girls are dressed in skin tight fashion jeans and shirts. Many men my age are also casually dressed, some in suits. It really is a preoccupation just observing the many dress styles here.
The pocket bread, Eesh baladi, is whole meal and so nice, when fresh, it can just be eaten on its own. The sandwich bars use this.
The local sandwich price is 1 pound ( very few places will charge tourists this price) for a sandwich filled with tomato salad, fried eggplant and Falafal balls crushed. Often small white bread long rolls are sold filled with a meat and capsicum mix.
The food is often spicy, much to my liking.
Generally, in the background the callings from mosques can be heard. Many small eateries have droning words from the Koran playing on their stereo systems.
All food is served by people using just their bare hands and often smoking simultaneously. No one seems to care, me amongst them.
A bread shop visited early in the morning had all their fresh bread laid out on the footpath.
I chose my bread from a clean section of the sidewalk!! It is a great place to build up ones immunity to bugs and germs here.
Once again, the little donkeys that do so much work fascinate me. They are generally pulling a cart running on 4 or 2 car axles, constructed of wood. Some animals are so tiny. Often the carts are so heavily loaded. Luckily, there are few hills here.
Having seen them taking these heavy loads down slopes, it is not a nice sight, there are no brakes on the carts and the poor animals are doing their best to stay on their feet whilst their owner is alongside trying to slow the cart.
They never complain. I suppose they can’t!!!
It is quite noticeable that the men don’t pay much attention to the woman on the streets. The clothing the woman wear, leaves a huge amount to the imagination.
In public, there is little outward affection shown between men and woman, generally the woman are walking with one another.
People are always sweeping their little plot near their stalls in the souk or sprinkling water to dampen the dust on the street.
Now, when walking in the souk few people hassle me. They know I am not a shopper for things not needed.
Having said all this, life and the people here are so, so, so, different to the way we go about things, and how we live.
In an ideal world, we both need to respect how each of our cultures go about life. Much of this respect should come from our side.
We don’t live in an ideal world, sadly.
Oliver, a young Swiss cyclist spent time with me one night, he is taking the bus to Wadi Halfa and will be ahead of me. We hope to catch up later.
I spent a morning trying to find a replacement for my stolen stool. Stall holders and shop keepers were everso helpful. One of sorts has been found. I could not bear camping without some kind of seat.
One morning, while waiting to buy my ferry ticket to Wadi Halfa, in need of a toilet, a guy was stopped, I pointed to my groin. He said, “No fucking here”. I quickly, in no uncertain fashion, clearly enacted my need to use a toilet. It was a funny moment.
For me anyway.
People, like in most countries, love it when their language is used. The few words I know are spoken as much as possible.
This puts a smile on people’s faces.
Often, as usual the first question is, where you from.
One day a visit was made to the Princes tombs across the river on the west bank.
5EP over and 1EP back, watching the price is a full time job here.
A climb to the top of the hill was made. Here expansive views back across the river to Aswan were taken in. The city of some 280,000 people blends in with the desert. The mosques and churches, apart from the 5 star hotels are the most prominent buildings in the cityscape.
The other buildings are mostly just shades of brown, like the desert.
On the way back across the river, a large graceful felucca crossed our bow and gybed.
It was an exhilarating moment, the “Cleopatra” was a sight to see.
The next morning was spent trying to find the captain of this vessel. Some three hours later, he was found sitting on a wall along the Cornish.
We arranged a sail at 1500 that afternoon. A breeze is often blowing at this time of day.
She was a craft capable of carrying 50 people. Just myself, the owner and the captain were onboard. They let me take the helm for the full two and a half hours whilst plying the Nile.
Going down stream, we tacked into the norwester of 10-15 knots. It was such a pleasure to see the huge cloth sail full of wind. The port tack saw her heeling. The rudder was heavy, though with the help of a line she was powering along.
I was yelling with excitement hanging on to the tiller as she gracefully heeled and came alive on the open river in the clear air.
This was a special moment for me here in Egypt.
On the way back, running with the wind, we returned on the west side of Elephantine Island. It was a narrow congested passage. The current was quite fast, the large sail area of the Cleopatra saw her making good passage through the narrows against the flow.
She had a steel hull and a good load of large rocks in her stern for ballast.
It is surprising how beamy she was and the length, some 35ft or more .
It was such an enjoyable time, Moustaf and Ahmid were given a good amount of money above what they wanted. They were both very thankful.
Whilst here, and out on the streets people are always hassling me for Felucca rides or taxis or to look in their shop. Some are quite rude and disrespectful. It can be tiring.
At these times, it would be easy to form a general dislike for everyone here. On other occasions, people are genuine and friendly. This is so comforting and always sees me say good-bye with warmth in my mind.
Being alone here with a negative attitude could become quite frightening. When out on the streets many emotions are experienced following contact with the locals.
I have to be hard on some people, paying too much for goods soon adds up if you allow it to happen all the time.
Last night here in the Nubian Oasis, a football team arrived. We were watching Ghana play Algeria on the TV in the reception area. I said we play in the Asia group.
On asking what group this was, they replied “this is the black group” it was a funny moment, we all laughed.
My feelings here contain much sorrow for the people of Egypt, many are incredibly poor. Presently there are few tourists here.
Along the rivers edge there are many huge riverboats tied up just rotting at their moorings. Before the 2011 revolution, they must have all been busy.
My mind paints a picture of the Nile back then when it must have been full of sail and these large vessels.
Many people talk of this time when traders and watermen alike had money enough for most things.
Presently, the words from the NZ gov on Eqypt are: “We advise against all travel”.
The Australian gov words are: “Reconsider your need to travel”
In this respect, the people here relying on tourism do not have alot of hope of seeing many people from these two countries. Though, Russians, Japanese and Chinese, along with Europeans do visit, though not in huge numbers.
The police here have made sure that I have been safe. This has been reassuring.
At no time have I felt really unsafe. Occasionally, when surrounded by dozens of people whilst stopping to eat on the road has been a little unsettling. Mainly due to the thought of having something stolen from the bike. My pump and other easily detachable items are now being carried in the panniers.
Being followed by young men on motos wanting money has also had its anxieties. My lack of interest always sees them fall off and return to their village in the end.
A heaped tablespoon of ground turmeric, honey, milk powder and boiled water is being drunk each day, in an effort to relieve the joint pain. Which has subsided a great deal, thankfully.
So fresh, from the little bakery where the people are queued in the background. 1 pound buys five or six of these.
