29/7-1/8/2015 Kigoma
This town was a great place to have a good rest, our guesthouse was basic but very comfortable with big rooms. We took a ride out to the fishing boat area. Here we bought fresh fish and fried them back in the hotel gardens. I visited the dentist which was located at the health clinic. Half way through the job, he decided composite would be better so we took a mot and visited another clinic . here was better equipment.
My aneasthetic had nearly worn off by this time. They were two big holes where previous fillings had fallen out.
He had said they were temporary, true to his word one fell out that night. We had to stay another day, none of us was complaining, the next morning I headed back to the second clinic , the dentist here a great guy decided to put in an amalgam.
This felt a lot better. It has survived 3 days and is still intact as I write this.
We swam in the lake each day and just enjoyed the time off.
Each night we ate at the same place, the restaurants were closed so early.
The lake was just the loveliest place to swim at Mangwe beach, here we could buy drinks and sit in the shade of thatched shelters and watch the sunset on the Congo.
We stocked up big-time on porridge, milk powder, honey, glucose biscuits, raisins and energy whilst here.
2/8/2015 Kigoma to bush camp 31km from Uvinza
D81 (9km around Kigoma), T5.4 Av14.22 , max64, 43,738 8,558
Tail wind
We slowly got ready, I was prepared a bit sooner, so headed off to the bank to get some small notes. By the way, Airtel seems to offer the best data packages here, if you want to use a phone in Tanzania.
Once this was done, I headed back to wait for the guys, while doing so, a mzungu pulled up in a landrover long wheel base. He was getting money changed at an exchange operator. I went into enquire. We started chatting. Ollie was a Belguim guy living in Burundi who had set up a tour, safari business here. He gave us great information on Katavi NP and the road south from Uvinza.
On the road, we were lucky to have asphalt all the way. We had to backtrack 31km to the turnoff to Uvinza. We stopped for coconut milk again.
Backtracking is great character building stuff, especially the hills.
Once at the turnoff, it was great to be into new territory again. What’s more way off ahead there was a storm cell containing low pressure.
We stopped in a tiny village 10km after the turnoff and had rice and beans in a just as tiny shed with a few locals. They had fresh water which had a distinct diesel odour from the cup we all shared to drink it from.
We also bought a good supply of these great glucose biscuits they sell in small packs here.
Ben is addicted, they really do give us good energy when required.
The high pressure where we were riding was getting sucked the low pressure storm cell. This created just the best tail wind and a break from the sou’ easters.
We spend an hour in a small village, with locals eating melons, chips and bananas. One of the guys showed us the well, we needed water for the night. Out the back of the shops was a sixty foot hole in the ground surrounded by timber and brick at thigh height. We had to lower a cut 5 litre oil container down the shaft to retrieve water. Cal and I filled our bladders. This was cooking water only.
The wind was really pushing us along now, it even looked like it could rain, which would be a welcome change.
Here we are wanting rain. It was only six weeks ago in Kenya we were wishing exactly the opposite.
The country is still ever so dry and burnt in many places.
Come time to look for a camp we crossed the railway line that followed the road in many places. Inscribed on the tracks was “Krupp 1913”, lots of history here.
We found a camp on the opposite side of the road, in tinder dry grass. We had to sit tight as a guy was moving his cattle past us, we went unnoticed.
As usual, one of our great pastas was enjoyed. We actually look forward to these delights. Always, followed by a couple of hot chocolates.
Cals Exped air has delaminated, so he is not too impressed. Cal and I both had a swab down with our hand towels in a small bowl of water. It’s amazing how fresh it makes one feel.
It was great to be in the outdoors again.
3/8/2015 bush camp to 15km after the Uvinza tunoff to Mpanda, camping
D72, T4.3 Av15.59 , max53, 43,657 8,477
Strong head winds to Uvinza, hot and hazy.
An undisturbed night had been enjoyed, though a men did walk past the camp a
The night had been incident free.
Two men walked through the long grass as we arose.
They paid little attention to us. We had enjoyed a great sleep. Overnight termites had built shelter tubes beneath my damp water bladder.
They were actually making a noise through the night. The trip is going so well with the 3 of us together.
We have our own space on the road which is great. We have time to chat over lunch and breaks us time in camp
Out on the road we heard a loud rumbling, it was the train coming through the bush towards us.
Surprisingly, it was a passenger train.
There must have been 15 carriages, most windows were full of faces.
It comes from Dar es Salaam and takes two days, I was told.
Today the wind was back to normal with the sou easters quite fresh.
The road was flat and in good condition, this is quite a new asphalt route.
There were small sheds along the way, they were small lime producing operations, the area nearby was brilliant white.
Sacks were stacked up in some camps.
They wind got strong enough to draft each other. We took 2km stints at the front, made a huge difference. As usual the road had a scattering of other local cyclists carrying all manner of items.
Late in the day we looked for a campsite and found this little track off the road, in here a kilometre was an area of layered sandstones that had recently been burnt. All the vegetation around the rocks was gone. It was almost an other worldly location.
We enjoyed a classic African sunset. There were slightly charred sites between the rocks, this is where we put our tents. The chances of people being about this late in the day were slim we thought.
4/8/2015 Sandstone camp to camp with view
D42, T5.21, Av10.55, max34, 43833, 8519
We were up early, having been undisturbed all night. After a good look around There was no way I could find my gloves. I must have put them on the back of the bike at some stage and they had fallen off.
We have all lost things as we leave hotels, campsites are not so bad. None of has lost anything to important. The problem is replacing it. I generally have a back up for items like this. In this case the fingers were cut from some woollen gloves used to change the chain so as not to get filthy hands. These worked perfectly.
Out on the road we were quite aware of all the small fires burning everywhere, this is done to let new grasses grow, a practise that used to be carried out around my home town. This has now been stopped due to pollution. The problem is it allows ground fuel to build up. When it does burn the fires are very hot and cause more destruction to flora and fauna.
We passed through some beautiful sandstone country with huge outcrops of the rock in places. Climbing one hill we met a couple from South Africa doing an overland trip in a pajero. They gave us cool water and great information about the roads around Malawi.
From here we stopped for lunch among the sandstone. The little flies were driving us crazy. They were only interested in our nose, ears and eyes. On closer inspection it was found they were tiny native bees.
We had to use our neck warmers over our heads to keep them out of our ears. Needless to say it was hurried lunch, even though we had noodles and hot chocolate.
We are now riding in the late afternoon which makes a great change, the late day colours are beautiful as the sun gets low in the sky.
At 1800 we pulled off the road and headed through the grass and trees to a spot that overlooked the last to the east. It was on top of a sandstone escarpment. The views were expansive across the Acacia forests amongst the sandstone.
The small bees really gave us a hard time here but always head home as soon as the sun gets low. They are driving us crazy then they are just gone.
Again, signs of people here were few. This road the B8 has been so good for camping.
5/8/2015 Camp with view to creek camp
D68 T4 Av16.5 max48 43901, 8587
Mild temperatues.
We awoke to strong winds. Cal and Ben had to peg their tent down before daylight. The wind was even a bit cool, this made for great sleeping which inturn saw us have a little sleep in. We had a huge brekky of double portions of porridge. The view out across the trees and sandstone escarpments was clearer this morning.
The little native bees do not bother us in the morning.
As soon as the sun got up it warmed up as usual, we are still only 5 degrees from the equator.
We were still riding through some beautiful sandstone country.
The road was now slowly downhill.
At about twenty km we came across a group of stalls selling things to buses or anyone else.
It was like a mirage at the top of a hill overlooking a vast openness of forest below.
Here we ate rice , beans and chicken, had a warm fanta, ate peanuts and bought glucose biscuits. People were trying to charge us silly prices for the biscuits, but just held out till they gave us the right price.
There was a steep drop off in the road from here.
Below this, the road was also generally downhill.
Buses and cars coming towards us never slowed down or even decelerated. Luckily, there were few. This road is so isolated. The camping options are almost everywhere.
We were making great time doing 10km every half hour on the much improved road.
At times cattle were roaming in the dry treed landscape. Much had been burnt, as usual.
Long bee boxes were in some trees.
The road is really only one way when vehicles passed we mostly had to stop.
No animals were seen.
At 1630, we crossed a small concrete bridge with an inviting stream flowing beneath it. Cal and I walked downstream to investigate campsites and found an almost perfect spot on the bank.
Once in here we washed, did all our clothes washing and swam in the creek.
I gave my bike a good wash with an old toothbrush, there was dust in places on the handlebars all the way from Sth America
Again, the bees kept pestering us till dusk.
Cal uses his mesh sleeping dag cover over his head to keep them away.
We swam and washed in the creek. All my riding clothes were washed.
It was so good to have a supply of water at our doorstep.
This campsite was as good as any river campsite, importantly we had it to ourselves.
Ben cooked a tasty pasta and I must have drank three cocoas and a cup of tea before bed.
The evening sky was littered with stars and the milky was just that.
The campsites have just been getting better each night on this great place here in Tanzania to be cycling.
6/8/2015 Creek camp to mpanda
D80 T5.6 Av13.37 max41 43981, 8667
Mild temperatues. Very dusty
In the morning Cal told us he thought he heard lions overnight and had got the fuel bottle on his stove at his side encase he needed to scare them with fire. Ben and I both laughed.
Not far from the camp was a steep downhill section, once we got to the bottom of this and looked back we could see the waterfall cascading over the escarpment Ollie had to us about. It was just downstream from where we were camped.
Our road profile told us there were small hills on the way to Mpanda but overall it was downhill. The road in places was getting dangerous with patches of loose sand in the wheel ruts.
Cals front pannier had lost one of the screws that holds the bat on that the hooks re attached to. Carrying spare of these is very important we have found out.
Getting to a small village we had chai and chapattis with honey. There were a number of chickens around the little shack all hobbled and waiting to be dispatched as needed.
Leaving here, we were making good time. Running down one hill in what I thought was full control, my frot wheel hit a patch of sand, before It was known I was over the handle bars onto the side of the road. This was the first time I had been unable to step off the bike. Both my knees had suffered gravel rash, the right one was the worst. My shorts had to be pinned up to stop them rubbing on the painful wound. Other tat that all was good, though I was a little shaken. This road has seen us all come off at times.
In another village we stopped where a woman was selling oranges. We had not had oranges for a while. Our bodies let us know when they want something like this, here 10 were eaten by myself such was the need to eat them.
Further on there were piles of dirt stacked along half of the road which had reduced it to a one way track. Caution was needed here to avoid the deep sandy patches.
All along the way people were hauling charcoal on bicycles. Some had over 100kg of the stuff on the back. They had 25km to push this to Mapanda. The bikes were unrideable, with such loads.
There was a truck heading to Mpanda picking up bags of charcoal that were stacked all along the way. Many of the people here make a living burning wood in a low oxygen environment to produce this vital cooking fuel.
Getting closer to Mpanda, the number of vehicles and people were increasing, many people were walking along the road edges.
We stopped at one village to watch a football match for a few minutes. The pitch was just brown dry dirt. There was quite a crowd of spectators.
Another village saw us stop for water and biscuits. The small stores and there are many of them, sell all the same things town after town.
The sun was getting low, by the time we finally got into town it was dark. First thing was to get a good meal then find a guesthouse. A man earlier on the road had told us about the Milanzi guesthouse, so we were not concerned about looking for accommodation.
We ate chips, goat, rice and beans with greens almost in the dark. The whole city was without electricity.
Many towns out here have electricity produced by generators.
Mpanda was waiting for a part for the generator that was not available in the country.
This situation is really quite unreal. No one complains. We sat with a guy who worked in a gold mine near here. It is run by a company from Oman, he said they produce about 10kg/week.
WE rode around town with our headlights on looking for the guesthouse.
Finding the Milanzi we checked in, in darkness. There was a hurricane lamp burning in the courtyard.
It was basic but comfortable, we were not hungry and just had a flannel wash down before bed.
Cal had been feeling unwell during the so we may stay here a bit longer.
7/8/2015 Mpanda to Riverside camp, Sitilike
D37 T2.5 Av15.88 max39 44018, 8704
Mild temperatues. Cooling sou easter
We had a bit of a sleep in. Callum was feeling fine. The morning was spent stocking up on essentials. Things like porridge, milk powder, chocolate powder and veges, namely tomatoes onions and capsicum plus potatoes for dinner.
We had lunch and did not get away till 1500hrs, knowing it was only a short distance to Jumas Riverside park camp ground. He camn be contacted on +255 767754740.
He is also a registered guide in the Katavi NP.
We filled our fuel tanks and left the powerless town. The road was dirt for a few km before the asphalt commenced. It was a great break from the dust.
The road was very new, riding was easy. We arrivedin Sitalike and bought a fewbananas in the small but spread out village before arriving at Jumas campground, which is located on the Katuma river just outside of the Katavi NP.
Here we set up our tents under some Acacia trees. Some 100m from our camp, there were Hippos in the grey brown waters of the river, a small croc was also on a nearby rock.
During the evening hippos were walking past our camp to look for grass to eat.
We had arranged to take a tour of the park with Juma in the morning.
7-8/8/2015 Riverside campground, Katavi NP
D80 T5.6 Av13.37 max41 43981, 8667
Mild temperatues.
We were up early for the 0700 start with Juma. From the camp we went to the park headquarters to pay the $30 park fee each, we payed thiswith debit cards which was very convenient as prices were in US dollars.
From here we headed off in his converted Landcruiser troop carrier some 40 km into the park. The day was spent slowly driving around spotting animals. Most common were giraffe, impala, elephants, buffalo, crocodiles, hippo, zebras, waterbuck and hartbeast.
We had hoped to see lions, try we did all afternoon but could not spot one.
The crocodiles and Hippos were absolutely fascinating as they lived in co existence in the slowly drying Katuma river. The giraffes up very close were just as bizarre.
The tour took all day. During the afternoon I fell asleep in the roomy vehicle for an hour or two. I most definitely would have heard about it if a lion was spotted.
We arrived back just before dark very worn out from doing nothing all day.
The next day was spent totally relaxing, washing and just enjoying the ambience of this unique location.
This town was a great place to have a good rest, our guesthouse was basic but very comfortable with big rooms. We took a ride out to the fishing boat area. Here we bought fresh fish and fried them back in the hotel gardens. I visited the dentist which was located at the health clinic. Half way through the job, he decided composite would be better so we took a mot and visited another clinic . here was better equipment.
My aneasthetic had nearly worn off by this time. They were two big holes where previous fillings had fallen out.
He had said they were temporary, true to his word one fell out that night. We had to stay another day, none of us was complaining, the next morning I headed back to the second clinic , the dentist here a great guy decided to put in an amalgam.
This felt a lot better. It has survived 3 days and is still intact as I write this.
We swam in the lake each day and just enjoyed the time off.
Each night we ate at the same place, the restaurants were closed so early.
The lake was just the loveliest place to swim at Mangwe beach, here we could buy drinks and sit in the shade of thatched shelters and watch the sunset on the Congo.
We stocked up big-time on porridge, milk powder, honey, glucose biscuits, raisins and energy whilst here.
2/8/2015 Kigoma to bush camp 31km from Uvinza
D81 (9km around Kigoma), T5.4 Av14.22 , max64, 43,738 8,558
Tail wind
We slowly got ready, I was prepared a bit sooner, so headed off to the bank to get some small notes. By the way, Airtel seems to offer the best data packages here, if you want to use a phone in Tanzania.
Once this was done, I headed back to wait for the guys, while doing so, a mzungu pulled up in a landrover long wheel base. He was getting money changed at an exchange operator. I went into enquire. We started chatting. Ollie was a Belguim guy living in Burundi who had set up a tour, safari business here. He gave us great information on Katavi NP and the road south from Uvinza.
On the road, we were lucky to have asphalt all the way. We had to backtrack 31km to the turnoff to Uvinza. We stopped for coconut milk again.
Backtracking is great character building stuff, especially the hills.
Once at the turnoff, it was great to be into new territory again. What’s more way off ahead there was a storm cell containing low pressure.
We stopped in a tiny village 10km after the turnoff and had rice and beans in a just as tiny shed with a few locals. They had fresh water which had a distinct diesel odour from the cup we all shared to drink it from.
We also bought a good supply of these great glucose biscuits they sell in small packs here.
Ben is addicted, they really do give us good energy when required.
The high pressure where we were riding was getting sucked the low pressure storm cell. This created just the best tail wind and a break from the sou’ easters.
We spend an hour in a small village, with locals eating melons, chips and bananas. One of the guys showed us the well, we needed water for the night. Out the back of the shops was a sixty foot hole in the ground surrounded by timber and brick at thigh height. We had to lower a cut 5 litre oil container down the shaft to retrieve water. Cal and I filled our bladders. This was cooking water only.
The wind was really pushing us along now, it even looked like it could rain, which would be a welcome change.
Here we are wanting rain. It was only six weeks ago in Kenya we were wishing exactly the opposite.
The country is still ever so dry and burnt in many places.
Come time to look for a camp we crossed the railway line that followed the road in many places. Inscribed on the tracks was “Krupp 1913”, lots of history here.
We found a camp on the opposite side of the road, in tinder dry grass. We had to sit tight as a guy was moving his cattle past us, we went unnoticed.
As usual, one of our great pastas was enjoyed. We actually look forward to these delights. Always, followed by a couple of hot chocolates.
Cals Exped air has delaminated, so he is not too impressed. Cal and I both had a swab down with our hand towels in a small bowl of water. It’s amazing how fresh it makes one feel.
It was great to be in the outdoors again.
3/8/2015 bush camp to 15km after the Uvinza tunoff to Mpanda, camping
D72, T4.3 Av15.59 , max53, 43,657 8,477
Strong head winds to Uvinza, hot and hazy.
An undisturbed night had been enjoyed, though a men did walk past the camp a
The night had been incident free.
Two men walked through the long grass as we arose.
They paid little attention to us. We had enjoyed a great sleep. Overnight termites had built shelter tubes beneath my damp water bladder.
They were actually making a noise through the night. The trip is going so well with the 3 of us together.
We have our own space on the road which is great. We have time to chat over lunch and breaks us time in camp
Out on the road we heard a loud rumbling, it was the train coming through the bush towards us.
Surprisingly, it was a passenger train.
There must have been 15 carriages, most windows were full of faces.
It comes from Dar es Salaam and takes two days, I was told.
Today the wind was back to normal with the sou easters quite fresh.
The road was flat and in good condition, this is quite a new asphalt route.
There were small sheds along the way, they were small lime producing operations, the area nearby was brilliant white.
Sacks were stacked up in some camps.
They wind got strong enough to draft each other. We took 2km stints at the front, made a huge difference. As usual the road had a scattering of other local cyclists carrying all manner of items.
Late in the day we looked for a campsite and found this little track off the road, in here a kilometre was an area of layered sandstones that had recently been burnt. All the vegetation around the rocks was gone. It was almost an other worldly location.
We enjoyed a classic African sunset. There were slightly charred sites between the rocks, this is where we put our tents. The chances of people being about this late in the day were slim we thought.
4/8/2015 Sandstone camp to camp with view
D42, T5.21, Av10.55, max34, 43833, 8519
We were up early, having been undisturbed all night. After a good look around There was no way I could find my gloves. I must have put them on the back of the bike at some stage and they had fallen off.
We have all lost things as we leave hotels, campsites are not so bad. None of has lost anything to important. The problem is replacing it. I generally have a back up for items like this. In this case the fingers were cut from some woollen gloves used to change the chain so as not to get filthy hands. These worked perfectly.
Out on the road we were quite aware of all the small fires burning everywhere, this is done to let new grasses grow, a practise that used to be carried out around my home town. This has now been stopped due to pollution. The problem is it allows ground fuel to build up. When it does burn the fires are very hot and cause more destruction to flora and fauna.
We passed through some beautiful sandstone country with huge outcrops of the rock in places. Climbing one hill we met a couple from South Africa doing an overland trip in a pajero. They gave us cool water and great information about the roads around Malawi.
From here we stopped for lunch among the sandstone. The little flies were driving us crazy. They were only interested in our nose, ears and eyes. On closer inspection it was found they were tiny native bees.
We had to use our neck warmers over our heads to keep them out of our ears. Needless to say it was hurried lunch, even though we had noodles and hot chocolate.
We are now riding in the late afternoon which makes a great change, the late day colours are beautiful as the sun gets low in the sky.
At 1800 we pulled off the road and headed through the grass and trees to a spot that overlooked the last to the east. It was on top of a sandstone escarpment. The views were expansive across the Acacia forests amongst the sandstone.
The small bees really gave us a hard time here but always head home as soon as the sun gets low. They are driving us crazy then they are just gone.
Again, signs of people here were few. This road the B8 has been so good for camping.
5/8/2015 Camp with view to creek camp
D68 T4 Av16.5 max48 43901, 8587
Mild temperatues.
We awoke to strong winds. Cal and Ben had to peg their tent down before daylight. The wind was even a bit cool, this made for great sleeping which inturn saw us have a little sleep in. We had a huge brekky of double portions of porridge. The view out across the trees and sandstone escarpments was clearer this morning.
The little native bees do not bother us in the morning.
As soon as the sun got up it warmed up as usual, we are still only 5 degrees from the equator.
We were still riding through some beautiful sandstone country.
The road was now slowly downhill.
At about twenty km we came across a group of stalls selling things to buses or anyone else.
It was like a mirage at the top of a hill overlooking a vast openness of forest below.
Here we ate rice , beans and chicken, had a warm fanta, ate peanuts and bought glucose biscuits. People were trying to charge us silly prices for the biscuits, but just held out till they gave us the right price.
There was a steep drop off in the road from here.
Below this, the road was also generally downhill.
Buses and cars coming towards us never slowed down or even decelerated. Luckily, there were few. This road is so isolated. The camping options are almost everywhere.
We were making great time doing 10km every half hour on the much improved road.
At times cattle were roaming in the dry treed landscape. Much had been burnt, as usual.
Long bee boxes were in some trees.
The road is really only one way when vehicles passed we mostly had to stop.
No animals were seen.
At 1630, we crossed a small concrete bridge with an inviting stream flowing beneath it. Cal and I walked downstream to investigate campsites and found an almost perfect spot on the bank.
Once in here we washed, did all our clothes washing and swam in the creek.
I gave my bike a good wash with an old toothbrush, there was dust in places on the handlebars all the way from Sth America
Again, the bees kept pestering us till dusk.
Cal uses his mesh sleeping dag cover over his head to keep them away.
We swam and washed in the creek. All my riding clothes were washed.
It was so good to have a supply of water at our doorstep.
This campsite was as good as any river campsite, importantly we had it to ourselves.
Ben cooked a tasty pasta and I must have drank three cocoas and a cup of tea before bed.
The evening sky was littered with stars and the milky was just that.
The campsites have just been getting better each night on this great place here in Tanzania to be cycling.
6/8/2015 Creek camp to mpanda
D80 T5.6 Av13.37 max41 43981, 8667
Mild temperatues. Very dusty
In the morning Cal told us he thought he heard lions overnight and had got the fuel bottle on his stove at his side encase he needed to scare them with fire. Ben and I both laughed.
Not far from the camp was a steep downhill section, once we got to the bottom of this and looked back we could see the waterfall cascading over the escarpment Ollie had to us about. It was just downstream from where we were camped.
Our road profile told us there were small hills on the way to Mpanda but overall it was downhill. The road in places was getting dangerous with patches of loose sand in the wheel ruts.
Cals front pannier had lost one of the screws that holds the bat on that the hooks re attached to. Carrying spare of these is very important we have found out.
Getting to a small village we had chai and chapattis with honey. There were a number of chickens around the little shack all hobbled and waiting to be dispatched as needed.
Leaving here, we were making good time. Running down one hill in what I thought was full control, my frot wheel hit a patch of sand, before It was known I was over the handle bars onto the side of the road. This was the first time I had been unable to step off the bike. Both my knees had suffered gravel rash, the right one was the worst. My shorts had to be pinned up to stop them rubbing on the painful wound. Other tat that all was good, though I was a little shaken. This road has seen us all come off at times.
In another village we stopped where a woman was selling oranges. We had not had oranges for a while. Our bodies let us know when they want something like this, here 10 were eaten by myself such was the need to eat them.
Further on there were piles of dirt stacked along half of the road which had reduced it to a one way track. Caution was needed here to avoid the deep sandy patches.
All along the way people were hauling charcoal on bicycles. Some had over 100kg of the stuff on the back. They had 25km to push this to Mapanda. The bikes were unrideable, with such loads.
There was a truck heading to Mpanda picking up bags of charcoal that were stacked all along the way. Many of the people here make a living burning wood in a low oxygen environment to produce this vital cooking fuel.
Getting closer to Mpanda, the number of vehicles and people were increasing, many people were walking along the road edges.
We stopped at one village to watch a football match for a few minutes. The pitch was just brown dry dirt. There was quite a crowd of spectators.
Another village saw us stop for water and biscuits. The small stores and there are many of them, sell all the same things town after town.
The sun was getting low, by the time we finally got into town it was dark. First thing was to get a good meal then find a guesthouse. A man earlier on the road had told us about the Milanzi guesthouse, so we were not concerned about looking for accommodation.
We ate chips, goat, rice and beans with greens almost in the dark. The whole city was without electricity.
Many towns out here have electricity produced by generators.
Mpanda was waiting for a part for the generator that was not available in the country.
This situation is really quite unreal. No one complains. We sat with a guy who worked in a gold mine near here. It is run by a company from Oman, he said they produce about 10kg/week.
WE rode around town with our headlights on looking for the guesthouse.
Finding the Milanzi we checked in, in darkness. There was a hurricane lamp burning in the courtyard.
It was basic but comfortable, we were not hungry and just had a flannel wash down before bed.
Cal had been feeling unwell during the so we may stay here a bit longer.
7/8/2015 Mpanda to Riverside camp, Sitilike
D37 T2.5 Av15.88 max39 44018, 8704
Mild temperatues. Cooling sou easter
We had a bit of a sleep in. Callum was feeling fine. The morning was spent stocking up on essentials. Things like porridge, milk powder, chocolate powder and veges, namely tomatoes onions and capsicum plus potatoes for dinner.
We had lunch and did not get away till 1500hrs, knowing it was only a short distance to Jumas Riverside park camp ground. He camn be contacted on +255 767754740.
He is also a registered guide in the Katavi NP.
We filled our fuel tanks and left the powerless town. The road was dirt for a few km before the asphalt commenced. It was a great break from the dust.
The road was very new, riding was easy. We arrivedin Sitalike and bought a fewbananas in the small but spread out village before arriving at Jumas campground, which is located on the Katuma river just outside of the Katavi NP.
Here we set up our tents under some Acacia trees. Some 100m from our camp, there were Hippos in the grey brown waters of the river, a small croc was also on a nearby rock.
During the evening hippos were walking past our camp to look for grass to eat.
We had arranged to take a tour of the park with Juma in the morning.
7-8/8/2015 Riverside campground, Katavi NP
D80 T5.6 Av13.37 max41 43981, 8667
Mild temperatues.
We were up early for the 0700 start with Juma. From the camp we went to the park headquarters to pay the $30 park fee each, we payed thiswith debit cards which was very convenient as prices were in US dollars.
From here we headed off in his converted Landcruiser troop carrier some 40 km into the park. The day was spent slowly driving around spotting animals. Most common were giraffe, impala, elephants, buffalo, crocodiles, hippo, zebras, waterbuck and hartbeast.
We had hoped to see lions, try we did all afternoon but could not spot one.
The crocodiles and Hippos were absolutely fascinating as they lived in co existence in the slowly drying Katuma river. The giraffes up very close were just as bizarre.
The tour took all day. During the afternoon I fell asleep in the roomy vehicle for an hour or two. I most definitely would have heard about it if a lion was spotted.
We arrived back just before dark very worn out from doing nothing all day.
The next day was spent totally relaxing, washing and just enjoying the ambience of this unique location.
Sunday 9th August 2015
Riverside camp to a quarry outside Milumba
D91, T6.5, Av13.17, max34, 44,108, 8758
Fine with refreshing sou easter.
Knowing we had to ride through the park were up early.
We also knew the Tsetse flies might be a problem. We hoped that if we kept moving they may not bother us.
All of us had filtered water from the camp.
As we left Juma was not about. There was another group, Mike and his wife and some friends. We spike with them on leaving.
Earlier the hippos had wandered through the camp as usual.
One had walked right past the tent.
Down at the creek, one was still on land. They are such odd creatures it was jist standing doing nothing on its short stumpy legs.
Mike told us most deaths occur in the water with these animals.
He finally slowly walked down one of their shutes in the creek bank and on into the water.
We got on our way.
Some 10km the Tsetses were driving me crazy.
I had to stop and put on my longs and my light weight long sleeved shirt.
They are not so big but sting when they finally embed their mouth parts in the skin.
They bite in the strangest places, feet, toes, fingers and wrists.
Mike,and Lynn caught up with us.
Lynn kindly gave us a bag of home cooked biscuits they were so delicious we ate them on the spot.
Getting to the Katuma bridge we stopped and met Juma with another safari group.
We stopped in the bush across the river full of hippos and crocs for lunch whilst here a ranger pulled up and asked what we were doing in the park on bicycles we told him we were in transit.
He said that was ok but to keep going.
From here we saw a few elephants and giraffe.They were very scared and ran off unlike their quietness when approached by vehicles.
Some 5km before leaving the park road works were under way. The piles of dirt were back on one side of the road.
It was slow going I came off, my bike did a full flip.
This saw my camera fall into the sand. It only just works now. Fingers crossed the sand finds its way out of the moving parts.
Once out of the park the road improved a little.
On getting to the town of Kibani we stopped for drinks they had frozen cordial in small tubed bags, a lot of these were eaten, just having ice was arelief.
Lunch was enjoyed here also.
The only guesthouse was to expensive so we moved on. Our water bottles were topped up at a well.
At the intersection in town the road was asphalt, it was a great relief. By now it was 1800, we found what looked like good camp on the flat land. Unfortunately people saw us. The area was open with just some trees many had been cut for firewood people were bringing it out in the fading light on their bikes.
We decided to move on.By now it was getting dark. We stopped at the roadside village of Milamba for a drink no cold ones were found.
The asphalt soon ended. Earlier we just had to keep going there were people everywhere being Sunday night.
By now we beginning to climb from the rift valley.
Seeing what looked like a quarry I had a look some half hour later we found a spot that was rock free.
By now it was 2030, it had been a huge day.
We slowly set up and cooked a well earned pasta.
Sleep came rapidly after watching one episode of Dexter , a show the boys had given me about a serial killer come hero.
The night was coolish and good for sleeping.
Monday 10th August 2015
Milumba to camp 25km nth of Chala
D48, T4, Av11.99, max44, 44,157, 8806
Fine and calm.
We enjoyed somewhat of a sleep in. People were walking past the camp they said Habari but otherwise just kept going.
Once up Cal found that his front derailleur cable housing had been badly damaged when the stand made from a branch broke yesterday.
The bike fell and the stick caught the cable.
After trying to repair it we resorted to just tying the loose cable to the frame. The climb up the Ufipa Escarpment was 15km of low gear riding.
So we set it on the small front cog.
It had been a good emergency campsite, quarries have provided these sites on quite a few occasions.
Out on the rough gravel road it was a steep climb from the quarry.
The views back over the rift valley were fantastic.
Like South Americas Andes, the Great Rift Valley has to be traversed many times to enjoy much of what Africa has to offer.
Today was no different.
We rested half way up. The country was tinder dry and dusty clad only in smallish trees many of which are being cut down for charcoal production.
The odd adobe farm house had bags out the front for sale.
Once in Kisi we stopped for a great meal of beans and rice.
The family serving it were extremely friendly we spent an hour here.
We turned left after this and were back on the B8 heading to Sumbawanga.
The road was wide but still gravel.
It was easy riding over gentle rolling hill country.
A huge 4x4 red truck past it was a German couple in a state of the art camper vehicle.
One extreme form of travel to the other I thought.
Cal was feeling pretty worn-out. We stopped at a well for water.
The days are so predictable now. At night we can leave things out knowing it wont rain. The nights are getting a bit cool which makes for great sleep.
We found a bush camp 25km from Chala.
All this country is now open from firewood production and farming.
There wee no Tsetse flies today.They only seem to be where there are animals.
Katavi NP yesterday was full of them.
We had a pasta and a few cups of tea and chocolate. A young boy spotted our camp but never bothered us.
The air was cool enough to put our sweat shirts on.
Tuesday 11th August 2015
Camp 25km nth of Chala to 15km before Sumbawanga
D73, T5, Av14.63, max56, 44,230, 8879
Fine with cross winds
I have no notes for today though remember we did get to the tarmac .
Wednesday, Thursday Friday 12th13 14 August 2015
Sumbawanga
D15, T1.2, Av13.74, max56, 44,249, 8898
Fine with cross winds
Friday 14th August 2015
Sumbawanga to Leala
D97, T6, Av15.84, max54, 44,346, 8995
Fine with head winds about 24 degrees
Saturday 15th August
Leala to Ndalambo
D84, T5, Av15.97, max47, 44430, 9,079
Ben not feeling well. Had mendazi before leaving got tomatoes at the markets.
There is no power in these towns. Each town has a communications tower but no electricity.
Everyone’s lives revolve around the daylight hours. Some people have solar panels and there are occasional generators running.
Our guesthouse was comfortable and clean.
We headed down the road to where we ate last night and enjoyed the best mandazi here so far they were not to oily.
The road was uphill for sometime then we had a nice slow downhill run for 20km
Had another cold drink had to buy water.
Road still gentle rolling country.
Good downhill run.
Had lunch under tree a treat of a tuna salad.
Ben very slow and with diarrhea.
He took Cipro.
Arrived in Ndalambo 1800. Found very basic only lodge had dinner a surprise of chicken across the road.
Very tied went straight to bed.no solar power in the lodge.
Sunday 16 August
Ndalambo to Tunduma
D50, T3.16 Av15.12, max45, 44479, 9,129
The mosquitos gave us all a rather sleepless night.
Though we were to tired to care. Ben put repellent on. I slept until 0200 and was woken by them.
We cooked in our rooms. The beds in the cell like rooms were actually more comfortable than many other pricier lodgings.
We slept in our sleeping bags.
The morning air is now a lot cooler.
We headed across the road to buy water as no one seemed to have any drinking water.
Public wells on this section of the road were not seen.
The same terrain prevailed. Villages every 5 to 10 km, many houses were a reddish brown large brick.
The landscape was dry and the roadsides littered with the remains of chewed sugar cane.
I stopped in one village for mendazi and tea the guys kept going.
In an hour I caught up again.
Traffic was increasing and the urban areas as we got closer to the border town of Tunduma.
In town we booked the Shwali Guesthouse.
It had no power but on inspection of neighboring shops they were seen to have power.
I told the manager he went and switched on their main!!
We enquired about going into Zambia as a short cut to Malawi crossing in at Chitipa.
There is immigration here but it worked out to a $50 visa for a day.
We will go north to Mbalizi, then south and cross at Ibanda.
The town is typical of border towns, very busy and people everywhere.
The guesthouse had a well in their courtyard, the water was not drinkable but we did get a hot bucket shower. From a large tub heating over charcoal.
Dinner was beef stew and plantains with a cold beer.
Ben is nearly over his upset stomach after a short course of Ciprol. A wonder drug at fixing diarrhea.
Monday 17 August
Tunduma to Songwe
D81, T4.5 Av16.8, max66, 44,561 9,210
Leaving Tunduma, there were semis everywhere. Many were fuel tankers. The road was busy as we started the descent from the town.In places there was little shoulder room. It was nice to be riding on a smooth well worn tarmac.
The days are now excellent for riding temperature wise with clear days a cool breeze and about 25 degrees.
Lunch was enjoyed in a small roadside building it was a popular spot with many locals enjoying the womans home cooked.
Tuesday 18 August
Songwe to Kiwira
D58, T5.2 Av10.81, max34, 44,618 9,268
The lodge had a good hot water supply in an urn heated with charcoal. All my cutlery and pots were washed in the hot water.
It is great to give them a good clean in detergent every so often.
We left in no hurry and got to Mbalizi and stopped for an early lunch some 15km later on a level road but still with the wind about.
Here we ate in the matutu park.
The meal was casseroled beef and chapatti.
From here we took the gravel short cut road to Kiwira.
The road had a 15km climb which was very steep in places.
We had bought oranges and apples in the busy Mbalizi.
These were eaten on the way up.
It was nice to be away from all the traffic.
At the top of the ranges we stopped to rest and atr more fruit and glucose biscuits.
Coming down we missed a turn off.
I had bought fresh potatoes from people bagging them on the roadside.
The steep hills were covered in dug potato fields.
Having missed the turn we had to back track 3km on the rough road. Some people told us about a short cut. This took us down a steep trail through farms. The views were vast across hills of potatoes and other crops. The track took us past small houses and people just leading their normal rural life.
Our rear wheels were skidding much of the time it was so steep.
After 5 or 6 km we got back on the main road.
For 14km it was more descending over the still rough road.
Some remarkably clean streams were crossed.
Riverside camp to a quarry outside Milumba
D91, T6.5, Av13.17, max34, 44,108, 8758
Fine with refreshing sou easter.
Knowing we had to ride through the park were up early.
We also knew the Tsetse flies might be a problem. We hoped that if we kept moving they may not bother us.
All of us had filtered water from the camp.
As we left Juma was not about. There was another group, Mike and his wife and some friends. We spike with them on leaving.
Earlier the hippos had wandered through the camp as usual.
One had walked right past the tent.
Down at the creek, one was still on land. They are such odd creatures it was jist standing doing nothing on its short stumpy legs.
Mike told us most deaths occur in the water with these animals.
He finally slowly walked down one of their shutes in the creek bank and on into the water.
We got on our way.
Some 10km the Tsetses were driving me crazy.
I had to stop and put on my longs and my light weight long sleeved shirt.
They are not so big but sting when they finally embed their mouth parts in the skin.
They bite in the strangest places, feet, toes, fingers and wrists.
Mike,and Lynn caught up with us.
Lynn kindly gave us a bag of home cooked biscuits they were so delicious we ate them on the spot.
Getting to the Katuma bridge we stopped and met Juma with another safari group.
We stopped in the bush across the river full of hippos and crocs for lunch whilst here a ranger pulled up and asked what we were doing in the park on bicycles we told him we were in transit.
He said that was ok but to keep going.
From here we saw a few elephants and giraffe.They were very scared and ran off unlike their quietness when approached by vehicles.
Some 5km before leaving the park road works were under way. The piles of dirt were back on one side of the road.
It was slow going I came off, my bike did a full flip.
This saw my camera fall into the sand. It only just works now. Fingers crossed the sand finds its way out of the moving parts.
Once out of the park the road improved a little.
On getting to the town of Kibani we stopped for drinks they had frozen cordial in small tubed bags, a lot of these were eaten, just having ice was arelief.
Lunch was enjoyed here also.
The only guesthouse was to expensive so we moved on. Our water bottles were topped up at a well.
At the intersection in town the road was asphalt, it was a great relief. By now it was 1800, we found what looked like good camp on the flat land. Unfortunately people saw us. The area was open with just some trees many had been cut for firewood people were bringing it out in the fading light on their bikes.
We decided to move on.By now it was getting dark. We stopped at the roadside village of Milamba for a drink no cold ones were found.
The asphalt soon ended. Earlier we just had to keep going there were people everywhere being Sunday night.
By now we beginning to climb from the rift valley.
Seeing what looked like a quarry I had a look some half hour later we found a spot that was rock free.
By now it was 2030, it had been a huge day.
We slowly set up and cooked a well earned pasta.
Sleep came rapidly after watching one episode of Dexter , a show the boys had given me about a serial killer come hero.
The night was coolish and good for sleeping.
Monday 10th August 2015
Milumba to camp 25km nth of Chala
D48, T4, Av11.99, max44, 44,157, 8806
Fine and calm.
We enjoyed somewhat of a sleep in. People were walking past the camp they said Habari but otherwise just kept going.
Once up Cal found that his front derailleur cable housing had been badly damaged when the stand made from a branch broke yesterday.
The bike fell and the stick caught the cable.
After trying to repair it we resorted to just tying the loose cable to the frame. The climb up the Ufipa Escarpment was 15km of low gear riding.
So we set it on the small front cog.
It had been a good emergency campsite, quarries have provided these sites on quite a few occasions.
Out on the rough gravel road it was a steep climb from the quarry.
The views back over the rift valley were fantastic.
Like South Americas Andes, the Great Rift Valley has to be traversed many times to enjoy much of what Africa has to offer.
Today was no different.
We rested half way up. The country was tinder dry and dusty clad only in smallish trees many of which are being cut down for charcoal production.
The odd adobe farm house had bags out the front for sale.
Once in Kisi we stopped for a great meal of beans and rice.
The family serving it were extremely friendly we spent an hour here.
We turned left after this and were back on the B8 heading to Sumbawanga.
The road was wide but still gravel.
It was easy riding over gentle rolling hill country.
A huge 4x4 red truck past it was a German couple in a state of the art camper vehicle.
One extreme form of travel to the other I thought.
Cal was feeling pretty worn-out. We stopped at a well for water.
The days are so predictable now. At night we can leave things out knowing it wont rain. The nights are getting a bit cool which makes for great sleep.
We found a bush camp 25km from Chala.
All this country is now open from firewood production and farming.
There wee no Tsetse flies today.They only seem to be where there are animals.
Katavi NP yesterday was full of them.
We had a pasta and a few cups of tea and chocolate. A young boy spotted our camp but never bothered us.
The air was cool enough to put our sweat shirts on.
Tuesday 11th August 2015
Camp 25km nth of Chala to 15km before Sumbawanga
D73, T5, Av14.63, max56, 44,230, 8879
Fine with cross winds
I have no notes for today though remember we did get to the tarmac .
Wednesday, Thursday Friday 12th13 14 August 2015
Sumbawanga
D15, T1.2, Av13.74, max56, 44,249, 8898
Fine with cross winds
Friday 14th August 2015
Sumbawanga to Leala
D97, T6, Av15.84, max54, 44,346, 8995
Fine with head winds about 24 degrees
Saturday 15th August
Leala to Ndalambo
D84, T5, Av15.97, max47, 44430, 9,079
Ben not feeling well. Had mendazi before leaving got tomatoes at the markets.
There is no power in these towns. Each town has a communications tower but no electricity.
Everyone’s lives revolve around the daylight hours. Some people have solar panels and there are occasional generators running.
Our guesthouse was comfortable and clean.
We headed down the road to where we ate last night and enjoyed the best mandazi here so far they were not to oily.
The road was uphill for sometime then we had a nice slow downhill run for 20km
Had another cold drink had to buy water.
Road still gentle rolling country.
Good downhill run.
Had lunch under tree a treat of a tuna salad.
Ben very slow and with diarrhea.
He took Cipro.
Arrived in Ndalambo 1800. Found very basic only lodge had dinner a surprise of chicken across the road.
Very tied went straight to bed.no solar power in the lodge.
Sunday 16 August
Ndalambo to Tunduma
D50, T3.16 Av15.12, max45, 44479, 9,129
The mosquitos gave us all a rather sleepless night.
Though we were to tired to care. Ben put repellent on. I slept until 0200 and was woken by them.
We cooked in our rooms. The beds in the cell like rooms were actually more comfortable than many other pricier lodgings.
We slept in our sleeping bags.
The morning air is now a lot cooler.
We headed across the road to buy water as no one seemed to have any drinking water.
Public wells on this section of the road were not seen.
The same terrain prevailed. Villages every 5 to 10 km, many houses were a reddish brown large brick.
The landscape was dry and the roadsides littered with the remains of chewed sugar cane.
I stopped in one village for mendazi and tea the guys kept going.
In an hour I caught up again.
Traffic was increasing and the urban areas as we got closer to the border town of Tunduma.
In town we booked the Shwali Guesthouse.
It had no power but on inspection of neighboring shops they were seen to have power.
I told the manager he went and switched on their main!!
We enquired about going into Zambia as a short cut to Malawi crossing in at Chitipa.
There is immigration here but it worked out to a $50 visa for a day.
We will go north to Mbalizi, then south and cross at Ibanda.
The town is typical of border towns, very busy and people everywhere.
The guesthouse had a well in their courtyard, the water was not drinkable but we did get a hot bucket shower. From a large tub heating over charcoal.
Dinner was beef stew and plantains with a cold beer.
Ben is nearly over his upset stomach after a short course of Ciprol. A wonder drug at fixing diarrhea.
Monday 17 August
Tunduma to Songwe
D81, T4.5 Av16.8, max66, 44,561 9,210
Leaving Tunduma, there were semis everywhere. Many were fuel tankers. The road was busy as we started the descent from the town.In places there was little shoulder room. It was nice to be riding on a smooth well worn tarmac.
The days are now excellent for riding temperature wise with clear days a cool breeze and about 25 degrees.
Lunch was enjoyed in a small roadside building it was a popular spot with many locals enjoying the womans home cooked.
Tuesday 18 August
Songwe to Kiwira
D58, T5.2 Av10.81, max34, 44,618 9,268
The lodge had a good hot water supply in an urn heated with charcoal. All my cutlery and pots were washed in the hot water.
It is great to give them a good clean in detergent every so often.
We left in no hurry and got to Mbalizi and stopped for an early lunch some 15km later on a level road but still with the wind about.
Here we ate in the matutu park.
The meal was casseroled beef and chapatti.
From here we took the gravel short cut road to Kiwira.
The road had a 15km climb which was very steep in places.
We had bought oranges and apples in the busy Mbalizi.
These were eaten on the way up.
It was nice to be away from all the traffic.
At the top of the ranges we stopped to rest and atr more fruit and glucose biscuits.
Coming down we missed a turn off.
I had bought fresh potatoes from people bagging them on the roadside.
The steep hills were covered in dug potato fields.
Having missed the turn we had to back track 3km on the rough road. Some people told us about a short cut. This took us down a steep trail through farms. The views were vast across hills of potatoes and other crops. The track took us past small houses and people just leading their normal rural life.
Our rear wheels were skidding much of the time it was so steep.
After 5 or 6 km we got back on the main road.
For 14km it was more descending over the still rough road.
Some remarkably clean streams were crossed.
