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  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
Picture
Picture
29/7-1/8/2015 Kigoma

This town was a great place to have a good rest, our guesthouse was basic but very comfortable with big rooms. We took a ride out to the fishing boat area. Here we bought fresh fish and fried them back in the hotel gardens. I visited the dentist which was located at the health clinic. Half way through the job, he decided composite would be better so we took a mot and visited another clinic . here was better equipment.

My aneasthetic had nearly worn off by this time. They were two big holes where previous fillings had fallen out.

He had said they were temporary, true to his word one fell out that night. We had to stay another day, none of us was complaining, the next morning I headed back to the second clinic , the dentist here a great guy decided to put in an amalgam.

This felt a lot better. It has survived 3 days and is still intact as I write this.

We swam in the lake each day and just enjoyed the time off.

Each night we ate at the same place, the restaurants were closed so early.

The lake was just the loveliest place to swim at Mangwe beach, here we could buy drinks and sit in the shade of thatched shelters and watch the sunset on the Congo.

We stocked up big-time on porridge, milk powder, honey, glucose biscuits, raisins and energy whilst here.

 

 

 

 

2/8/2015  Kigoma to bush camp 31km from Uvinza

D81 (9km around Kigoma), T5.4 Av14.22 , max64, 43,738 8,558

Tail wind

We slowly got ready, I was prepared a bit sooner, so headed off to the bank to get some small notes. By the way, Airtel seems to offer the best data packages here, if you want to use a phone in Tanzania.

Once this was done, I headed back to wait for the guys, while doing so, a  mzungu pulled up in a landrover long wheel base. He was getting money changed at an exchange operator. I went into enquire. We started chatting. Ollie was a Belguim guy living in Burundi who had set up a tour, safari business here. He gave us great information on Katavi NP and the road south from Uvinza.

On the road, we were lucky to have asphalt all the way. We had to backtrack 31km to the turnoff to Uvinza. We stopped for coconut milk again.

Backtracking is great character building stuff, especially the hills.

Once at the turnoff, it was great to be into new territory again. What’s more way off ahead there was a storm cell containing low pressure.

We stopped in a tiny village 10km after the turnoff and had rice and beans in a just as tiny shed with a few locals. They had fresh water which had a distinct diesel odour from the cup we all shared to drink it from.

We also bought a good supply of these great glucose biscuits they sell in small packs here.

Ben is addicted, they really do give us good energy when required.

The high pressure where we were riding  was getting sucked the low pressure storm cell. This created just the best tail wind and a break from the sou’ easters.

We spend an hour in a small village, with locals eating melons, chips and bananas. One of the guys showed us the well, we needed water for the night. Out the back of the shops was a sixty foot hole in the ground surrounded by timber and brick at thigh height. We had to lower a cut 5 litre oil container down the shaft to retrieve water. Cal and I filled our bladders. This was cooking water only.

The wind was really pushing us along now, it even looked like it could rain, which would be a welcome change.

Here we are wanting rain. It was only six weeks ago in Kenya we were wishing exactly the opposite.

The country is still ever so dry and burnt in many places.

Come time to look for a camp we crossed the railway line that followed the road in many places. Inscribed on the tracks was “Krupp 1913”, lots of history here.

We found a camp on the opposite side of the road, in tinder dry grass. We had to sit tight as a guy was moving his cattle past us, we went unnoticed.

As usual, one of our great pastas was enjoyed. We actually look forward to these delights. Always, followed by a couple of hot chocolates.

Cals Exped air has delaminated, so he is not too impressed. Cal and I both had a swab down with our hand towels in a small bowl of water. It’s  amazing how fresh it makes one feel.

It was great to be in the outdoors again.

3/8/2015 bush camp to 15km after the Uvinza tunoff to Mpanda, camping

D72, T4.3 Av15.59 , max53, 43,657 8,477

Strong head winds to Uvinza, hot and hazy.

An undisturbed night had been enjoyed, though a men did walk past the camp a

 The night had been incident free.

Two men walked through the long grass as we arose.

They paid little attention to us. We had enjoyed a great sleep. Overnight termites had built shelter tubes beneath my damp water bladder.

They were actually making a noise through the night. The trip is going so well with the 3 of us together.

We have our own space on the road which is great. We have time to chat over lunch and breaks us time in camp

Out on the road we heard a loud rumbling, it was the train coming through the bush towards us.

Surprisingly, it was a passenger train.

There must have been 15 carriages, most windows were full of faces.

It comes from Dar es Salaam and takes two days, I was told.

Today the wind was back to normal with the sou easters quite fresh.

The road was flat and in good condition, this is quite a new asphalt route.

There were small sheds along the way, they were small lime producing operations, the area nearby was brilliant white.

Sacks were stacked up in some camps.

They wind got strong enough to draft each other. We took 2km stints at the front, made a huge difference. As usual the road had a scattering of other local cyclists carrying all manner of items.

Late in the day we looked for a campsite and found this little track off the road, in here a kilometre was an area of layered sandstones that had recently been burnt. All the vegetation around the rocks was gone. It was almost an other worldly location.

We enjoyed a classic African sunset. There were slightly charred sites between the rocks, this is where we put our tents. The chances of people being about this late in the day were slim we thought.

4/8/2015 Sandstone camp to camp with view

D42, T5.21, Av10.55, max34, 43833, 8519

We were up early, having been undisturbed all night. After a good look around There was no way I could find my gloves. I must have put them on the back of the bike at some stage and they had fallen off.

We have all lost things as we leave hotels, campsites are not so bad. None of has lost anything to important. The problem is replacing it. I generally have a back up  for items like this. In this case the fingers were cut from some woollen gloves used to change the chain so as not to get filthy hands. These worked perfectly.

Out on the road we were quite aware of all the small fires burning everywhere, this is done to let new grasses grow, a practise that used to be carried out around my home town. This has now been stopped due to pollution. The problem is it allows ground fuel to build up. When it does burn the fires are very hot and cause more destruction to flora and fauna.

We passed through some beautiful sandstone country with huge outcrops of the rock in places. Climbing one hill we met a couple from South Africa doing an overland trip in a pajero. They gave us cool water and great information about the roads around Malawi.

From here we stopped for lunch among the sandstone. The little flies were driving us crazy. They were only interested in our nose, ears and eyes. On closer inspection it was found they were tiny native bees.

We had to use our neck warmers over our heads to keep them out of our ears. Needless to say it was hurried lunch, even though we had noodles and hot chocolate.

We are now riding in the late afternoon which makes a great change, the late day colours are beautiful as the sun gets low in the sky.

At 1800 we pulled off the road and headed through the grass and trees to a spot that overlooked the last to the east. It was on top of a sandstone escarpment. The views were expansive across the Acacia forests amongst the sandstone.

The small bees really gave us a hard time here but always head home as soon as the sun gets low. They are driving us crazy then they are just gone.

Again, signs of people here were few. This road the B8 has been so good for camping.

 

5/8/2015 Camp with view to creek camp

D68 T4 Av16.5 max48 43901, 8587

Mild temperatues.

We awoke to strong winds. Cal and Ben had to peg their tent down before daylight. The wind was even a bit cool, this made for great sleeping which inturn saw us have a little sleep in. We had a huge brekky of double portions of porridge. The view out across the trees and sandstone escarpments was clearer this morning.

The little native bees do not bother us in the morning.

As soon as the sun got up it warmed up as usual, we are still only 5 degrees from the equator.

We were still riding through some beautiful sandstone country.

The road was now slowly downhill.

At about twenty km we came across a group of stalls selling things to buses or anyone else.

 It was like a mirage at the top of a hill overlooking a vast openness of forest below.

Here we ate rice , beans and chicken, had a warm fanta, ate peanuts and bought glucose biscuits. People were trying to charge us silly prices for the biscuits, but just held out till they gave us the right price.

There was a steep drop off in the road from here.

Below this, the road was also generally downhill.

Buses and cars coming towards us never slowed down   or even decelerated.  Luckily, there were few. This road is so isolated. The camping options are almost everywhere.

We were making great time doing 10km every half hour on the much improved road.

At times cattle were roaming in the dry treed landscape. Much had been burnt, as usual.

Long bee boxes were in some trees.

The road is really only one way when vehicles passed we mostly had to stop.

No animals were seen.

At 1630, we crossed a small concrete bridge with an inviting stream flowing beneath it. Cal and I walked downstream to investigate campsites and found an almost perfect spot on the bank.

Once in here we washed, did all our clothes washing and swam in the creek.

I gave my bike a good wash with an old toothbrush, there was dust in places on the handlebars all the way from Sth America

Again, the bees kept pestering us till dusk.

Cal uses his mesh sleeping dag cover over his head to keep them away.

We swam and washed in the creek. All my riding clothes were washed.

It was so good to have a supply of water at our doorstep.

This campsite was as good as any river campsite, importantly we had it to ourselves.

Ben cooked a tasty pasta and I must have drank three cocoas  and a cup of tea before bed.

The evening sky was littered with stars and the milky was just that.

The campsites have just been getting better each night on this great place here in Tanzania to be cycling.

 

6/8/2015 Creek camp to mpanda

D80 T5.6 Av13.37 max41 43981, 8667

Mild temperatues. Very dusty

In the morning Cal told us he thought he heard lions overnight and had got the fuel bottle on his stove at his side encase he needed to scare them with fire. Ben and I both laughed.

Not far from the camp was a steep downhill section, once we got to the bottom of this and looked back we could see the waterfall cascading over the escarpment Ollie had to us about. It was just downstream from where we were camped.

Our road profile told us there were small hills on the way to Mpanda but overall it was downhill. The road in places was getting dangerous with patches of loose sand in the wheel ruts.

Cals front pannier had lost one of the screws that holds the bat on that the hooks re attached to. Carrying spare of these is very important we have found out.

Getting to a small village we had chai and chapattis with honey. There were a number of chickens around the little shack all hobbled and waiting to be dispatched as needed.

Leaving here, we were making good time. Running down one hill in what I thought was full control, my frot wheel hit a patch of sand, before It was known I was over the handle bars onto the side of the road. This was the first time I had been unable to step off the bike. Both my knees had suffered gravel rash, the right one was the worst. My shorts had to be pinned up to stop them rubbing on the painful wound. Other tat that all was good, though I was a little shaken. This road has seen us all come off at times.

In another village we stopped where a woman was selling oranges.  We had not had oranges for a while. Our bodies let us know when they want something like this, here 10 were eaten by myself such was the need to eat them.

Further on there were piles of dirt stacked along half of the road which had reduced it to a one way track. Caution was needed here to avoid the deep sandy patches.

All along the way people were hauling charcoal on bicycles. Some had over 100kg of the stuff on the back. They had 25km to push this to Mapanda. The bikes were unrideable, with such loads.

There was a truck heading to Mpanda picking up bags of charcoal that were stacked all along the way. Many of the people here make a living burning wood in a low oxygen environment to produce this vital cooking fuel.

Getting closer to Mpanda, the number of vehicles and people were increasing, many people were walking along the road edges.

We stopped at one village to watch a football match for a few minutes. The pitch was just brown dry dirt. There was quite a crowd of spectators.

Another village saw us stop for water and biscuits. The small stores and there are many of them, sell all the same things town after town.

The sun was getting low, by the time we finally got into town it was dark. First thing was to get a good meal then find a guesthouse. A man earlier on the road had told us about the Milanzi guesthouse, so we were not concerned about looking for accommodation.

We ate chips, goat, rice and beans with greens almost in the dark. The whole city was without electricity.

Many towns out here have electricity produced by generators.

Mpanda was waiting for a part for the generator that was not available in the country.

This situation is really quite unreal. No one complains. We sat with a guy who worked in a gold mine near here. It is run by a company from Oman, he said they produce about 10kg/week.

WE rode around town with our headlights on looking for the guesthouse.

Finding the Milanzi we checked in, in darkness. There was a hurricane lamp burning in the courtyard.

It was basic but comfortable, we were not hungry and just had a flannel wash down before bed.

Cal had been feeling unwell during the so we may stay here a bit longer.

7/8/2015  Mpanda to Riverside camp, Sitilike

D37 T2.5 Av15.88 max39 44018, 8704

Mild temperatues. Cooling sou easter

We had a bit of a sleep in. Callum was feeling fine. The morning was spent stocking up on essentials. Things like porridge, milk powder, chocolate powder and veges, namely tomatoes onions and capsicum plus potatoes for dinner.

We had lunch and did not get away till 1500hrs, knowing it was only a short distance to Jumas Riverside park camp ground. He camn be contacted on +255 767754740.

He is also a registered guide in the Katavi NP.

We filled our fuel tanks and left the powerless town. The road was dirt for a few km before the asphalt commenced. It was a great break from the dust.

The road was very new, riding was easy. We arrivedin Sitalike and bought a fewbananas in the small but spread out village before arriving at Jumas campground, which is located on the Katuma river just outside of the Katavi NP.

Here we set up our tents under some Acacia trees. Some 100m from our camp, there were Hippos in the grey brown waters of the river, a small croc was also on a nearby rock.

During the evening hippos were walking past our camp to look for grass to eat.

We had arranged to take a tour of the park with Juma in the morning.

7-8/8/2015 Riverside campground, Katavi NP

D80 T5.6 Av13.37 max41 43981, 8667

Mild temperatues.

We were up early for the 0700 start with Juma. From the camp we went to the park headquarters to pay the $30 park fee each, we payed thiswith debit cards which was very convenient as prices were in US dollars.

From here we headed off in his converted Landcruiser troop carrier some 40 km into the park. The day was spent slowly driving around spotting animals. Most common were giraffe, impala, elephants, buffalo, crocodiles, hippo, zebras, waterbuck and hartbeast.

We had hoped to see lions, try we did all afternoon but could not spot one.

The crocodiles and Hippos were absolutely fascinating as they lived in co existence in the slowly drying Katuma river. The giraffes up very close were just as bizarre.

The tour took all day. During the afternoon I fell asleep in the roomy vehicle for an hour or two. I most definitely would have heard about it if a lion was spotted.

We arrived back just before dark very worn out from doing nothing all day.

The next day was spent totally relaxing, washing and just enjoying the ambience of this unique location.  

 

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 Sunday 9th August 2015
Riverside camp to a quarry outside Milumba
D91, T6.5, Av13.17, max34, 44,108, 8758
Fine with refreshing sou easter.

Knowing we had to ride through the park were up early.
We also knew the Tsetse flies might be a problem. We hoped that if we kept moving they may not bother us.
All of us had filtered water from the camp.
As we left Juma was not about. There was another group, Mike and his wife and some friends. We spike with them on leaving.
Earlier the hippos had wandered through the camp as usual.
One had walked right past the tent.
Down at the creek, one was still on land. They are such odd creatures it was jist standing doing nothing on its short stumpy legs.
Mike told us most deaths occur in the water with these animals.
He finally slowly walked down one of their shutes in the creek bank and on into the water.
We got on our way.
Some 10km the Tsetses were driving me crazy.
I had to stop and put on my longs and my light weight long sleeved shirt.
They are not so big but sting when they finally embed their mouth parts in the skin.
They bite in the strangest places, feet, toes, fingers and wrists.
Mike,and Lynn caught up with us.
Lynn kindly gave us a bag of home cooked biscuits they were so delicious we ate them on the spot.
Getting to the Katuma bridge we stopped and met Juma with another safari group.
We stopped in the bush across the river full of hippos and crocs for lunch whilst here a ranger pulled up and asked what we were doing in the park on bicycles we told him we were in transit.
He said that was ok but to keep going.
From here we saw a few elephants and giraffe.They were very scared and ran off unlike their quietness when approached by vehicles.
Some 5km before leaving the park road works were under way. The piles of dirt were back on one side of the road.
It was slow going I came off, my bike did a full flip.
This saw my camera fall into the sand. It only just works now. Fingers crossed the sand finds its way out of the moving parts.
Once out of the park the road improved a little.
On getting to  the town of Kibani we stopped for drinks they had frozen cordial in small tubed bags, a lot of these were eaten, just having ice was arelief.
Lunch was enjoyed here also.
The only guesthouse was to expensive so we moved on. Our water bottles were topped up at a well.
At the intersection in town the road was asphalt, it was a great relief. By now it was 1800, we found what looked like good camp on the flat land. Unfortunately people saw us. The area was open with just some trees many had been cut for firewood people were bringing it out in the fading light on their bikes.
We decided to move on.By now it was getting dark. We stopped at the roadside village of Milamba for a drink no cold ones were found.
The asphalt soon ended. Earlier we just had to keep going there were people everywhere being Sunday night.
By now we beginning to climb from the rift valley.
Seeing what looked like a quarry I had a look some half hour later we found a spot that was rock free.
By now it was 2030, it had been a huge day.
We slowly set up and cooked a well earned pasta.
Sleep came rapidly after watching one episode of Dexter , a show the boys had given me about a serial killer come hero.
The night was coolish and good for sleeping.
Monday 10th August 2015
  Milumba to camp 25km nth of Chala
D48, T4, Av11.99, max44, 44,157, 8806
Fine and calm.

We enjoyed somewhat of a sleep in. People were walking past the camp they said Habari but otherwise just kept going.
Once up Cal found that his front derailleur cable housing had been badly damaged when the stand made from a branch broke yesterday.
The bike fell and the stick caught the cable.
After trying to repair it we resorted to just tying the loose cable to the frame. The climb up the Ufipa Escarpment was 15km of low gear riding.
So we set it on the small front cog.
It had been a good emergency campsite, quarries have provided these sites on quite a few occasions.
Out on the rough gravel road it was a steep climb from the quarry.
The views back over the rift valley were fantastic.
Like South Americas Andes, the Great Rift Valley has to be traversed many times to enjoy much of what  Africa has to offer.
Today was no different.
We rested half way up. The country was tinder dry and dusty clad only in smallish trees many of which are being cut down for charcoal production.
The odd adobe farm house had bags out the front for sale.
Once in Kisi we stopped for a great meal of beans and rice.
The family serving it were extremely friendly we spent an hour here.
We turned left after this and were back on the B8 heading to Sumbawanga.
The road was wide but still gravel.
It was easy riding over gentle rolling hill country.
A huge 4x4 red truck past it was a German couple in a state of the art camper vehicle.
One extreme form  of travel to the other I thought.
Cal was feeling pretty worn-out. We stopped at a well for water.
The days are so predictable now. At night we can leave things out knowing it wont rain. The nights are getting a bit cool which makes for great sleep.
We found a bush camp 25km from Chala.
All this country is now open from firewood production and farming.
There wee no Tsetse flies today.They only seem to be where there are animals.
Katavi NP yesterday was full of them.
We had a pasta and a few cups of tea and chocolate. A young boy spotted our camp but never bothered us.
The air was cool enough to put our sweat shirts on.
Tuesday 11th August 2015
  Camp 25km nth of Chala to 15km before Sumbawanga
D73, T5, Av14.63, max56, 44,230, 8879
Fine with cross winds

I have no notes for today though remember we did get to the tarmac .

Wednesday, Thursday Friday 12th13 14 August 2015
   Sumbawanga
D15, T1.2, Av13.74, max56, 44,249, 8898
Fine with cross winds

Friday 14th August 2015
 Sumbawanga to Leala
D97, T6, Av15.84, max54, 44,346, 8995
Fine with head winds about 24 degrees


Saturday 15th August
Leala to Ndalambo
 D84, T5, Av15.97, max47, 44430, 9,079

Ben not feeling well. Had mendazi before leaving got tomatoes at the markets.
There is no  power in these towns. Each town has a communications tower but no electricity.
Everyone’s lives revolve around the daylight hours. Some people have solar panels and there are occasional generators running.
Our guesthouse was comfortable and clean.
We headed down the road to where we ate last night and enjoyed the best mandazi here so far they were not to oily.
The road was uphill for sometime then we had a nice slow downhill run for 20km


Had another cold drink had to buy water.
Road still gentle rolling country.
Good downhill run.
Had lunch under tree a treat of a tuna salad.
Ben very slow and with diarrhea.
He took  Cipro.
Arrived in Ndalambo 1800. Found very basic only lodge had dinner a surprise of chicken across the road.
Very tied went straight to bed.no solar power in the lodge.
Sunday 16 August
 Ndalambo to Tunduma

 D50, T3.16 Av15.12, max45, 44479, 9,129
The mosquitos gave us all a rather sleepless night.
Though we were to tired to care. Ben put repellent on. I slept until 0200 and was woken by them.
We cooked in our rooms. The beds in the cell like rooms were actually more comfortable than many other pricier lodgings.
We slept in our sleeping bags.
The morning air is now a lot cooler.
We headed across the road to buy water as no one seemed to have any drinking water.
Public wells on this section of the road were not seen.
The same terrain prevailed. Villages every 5 to 10 km, many houses were a reddish brown large brick.
The landscape was dry and the roadsides littered with the remains of chewed sugar cane.
I stopped in one village for mendazi and tea the guys kept going.
In an hour I caught up again.
Traffic was increasing and the urban areas as we got closer to the border town of Tunduma.
In town we booked the Shwali Guesthouse.
It had no power but on inspection of neighboring shops they were seen to have power.
 I told the manager he went and switched on their main!!
We enquired about going into Zambia as a short cut to Malawi crossing in at Chitipa.
There is immigration here but it worked out to a $50 visa for a day.
We will go north to Mbalizi, then south and cross at Ibanda.
The town is typical of border towns, very busy and people everywhere.
The guesthouse had a well in their courtyard, the water was not drinkable but we did get a hot bucket shower. From a large tub heating over charcoal.
Dinner was beef stew and plantains with a cold beer.
Ben is nearly over his upset stomach after a short course of Ciprol. A wonder drug at fixing diarrhea.
Monday 17 August
 Tunduma to Songwe
 D81, T4.5 Av16.8, max66, 44,561 9,210

Leaving Tunduma, there were semis everywhere. Many were fuel tankers. The road was busy as we started the descent from the town.In places there was little shoulder room. It was nice to be riding on a smooth well worn tarmac.
The days are now excellent for riding temperature wise with clear days a cool breeze and about 25 degrees.
Lunch was enjoyed in a small roadside building it was a popular spot with many locals enjoying the womans home cooked.



Tuesday 18 August
  Songwe to Kiwira
 D58, T5.2 Av10.81, max34, 44,618  9,268

The lodge had a good hot water supply in an urn heated with charcoal. All my cutlery and pots were washed in the hot water.
It is great to give them a good clean in detergent every so often.
We left in no hurry and got to Mbalizi and stopped for an early lunch some 15km later on a level road but still with the wind about.
Here we ate in the matutu park.
The meal was casseroled beef and chapatti.
From here we took the gravel short cut road to Kiwira.
The road had a 15km climb which was very steep in places.
We had bought oranges and apples in the busy Mbalizi.
 These were eaten on the way up.
 It was nice to be away from all the traffic.
At the top of the ranges we stopped to rest and atr more fruit and glucose biscuits.
Coming down we missed a turn off.
I had bought fresh potatoes from people bagging them on the roadside.
 The steep hills were covered in dug potato fields.
Having missed the turn we had to back track 3km on the rough road. Some people told us about a short cut. This took us down a steep trail through farms. The views were vast across hills of potatoes and other crops. The track took us past small houses and people just leading their normal rural life.
Our rear wheels were skidding much of the time it was so steep.
After 5 or 6 km we got back on the main road.
For 14km it was more descending over the still rough road.
Some remarkably clean streams were crossed.
 
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