browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
To View progress, type overnight stop map in search box


24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Lanoa, Chiloé


D111, T6.5/11, Av15.88, Max60, Tot 22525, 12,726

Wet, sunny, hailing, overcast, showers, heavy rain, we had it all


Early morning in Puerto Montt saw more showers.

The internet never did work again at the hostal. We visited a cafe for those needs.

We found a great little restaurant bar doing Salmon ceviches for $3, we spent some time eating here.

At 0930 with clearing skies, we headed off and took the coast road out of town to Angelmo. Then onto Huelmo and eventually turning back to Ruta 5 before Calbuco.

The fish market at Angelmo was visited, the main produce was muscles and cockles. They had strings of smoked muscles, they looked so good but we were overloaded already.

The ride was on a concrete windy road, at times with steep little climbs.

It was a visual delight, that of riding along a coast that was a fantastic example of maritime businesses, a working port.

Detroit diesel, had a huge complex here.

Those of marinas, salmon factories, shipyards, boat building with little eateries for the locals scattered in-between,  the often ramshackle buildings. The air along the way was always rich with salt, though within this were the smells of diesel, fish, both fresh and rotting.

It was nice to back on the coast. Working vessels of all descriptions were moored and docked.

There were some sizeable modern yachts moored, ready for adventures further south this summer, one could safely assume.

On the way up to the main road, I holed a tyre so that was repaired.

Up on the highway they were in the process of duplicating it. So most of the way to Pargua was on brand new asphalt with no traffic, as it was using the old parts of the highway.

Along this road we got all types of weather, at one point it was hailing, then the sun would come out. The common denominator was that it was quite fresh. You needed to be moving to stay warm.

We stopped at a bus shelter for lunch during one heavy shower. Coffee and hot chocolate were great out of the cold rain.

Once in Pargua,  we literally rode straight onto the ferry to Chiloé .

This was a scenic 45 minutes. There were seals swimming in the bay and as usual sunning themselves on every available navigational buoy. Two penguins were sitting on a rock!

The sun was out for the duration. These ferries run 24 hours, ours was shared with large trucks.

Once on the island we set off for Linao on the road to Ancud.

The roads were narrow and busy. As usual now, the predominant colours were green and yellow. The yellow is the broom, now in full flower, it grows right to the roads edges.

The time now was after 1800. Once at the turnoff to Lanoa, the road was just a series of up and back down again all within a kilometre on many occasions.

The weather was a series of showers and sun. In the end we rode  in full wet weather gear because of the cold and constant downpours. So thankfully,  there was little wind.

We hit gravel at about 1945, the temp was really starting to drop and we were wet and cold. My gloves wet through .

 Soon the pueblito of Lanao was reached. We headed to the waterfront. Asked about an Alojamiento and found just the most delightful place run by a woman on her own .

 It was so nice to be in the shelter of a building. We finally stopped riding at 2030.

The sun was still out and had warmth in it.

Infact it was a lovely evening.

The alojamiente was just like coming into someones house, very rustic and homely with all sorts of nick nacks on the walls.

Best of all Norma had a piping hot gas fired shower, oh so good. In her sixties was great company over dinner in her kitchen, we both ate so much food, especially the feast size pasta Cal cooked up.

It had been a huge day, though intermingled with many interesting sites and environments.

The land use on this part of Chiloé was small farms, much dairying and fairly basic dwellings on small holdings.

25/11/2013 Linao to Aucar

D35, T3/6, Av10.67, Max54, Tot22560, 12761

Cool, sunny with fresh cool westerlies


It had been a cold night at Normas, thankfully she had given us a heap of blankets for our beds.

We were away about 0930, once again the road was a series of really steep little climbs only to come straight back down and up again. All this on gravel.

It was a challenge to ride up all these inclines.

We stopped in Quemchi at the mercardo and enjoyed a few treats like chocolate.

My soaked gloves from yesterday  were slowly drying out tied onto the front panniers.

Most houses we passed had head high plastic tunnel houses full of what looked like wood shavings.

I was told they grow a plant used in perfumes and sell it for supplementary income.

Every bay we passed was filled with aqua culture enterprises, mostly muscles.

At Quemchi we stopped for lunch on the water front.

It was great with million dollar views and crab meat bread rolls. Jaivas is the term they use here for the flesh, it was fresh but like crab very rich, but also like crab very moorish.

From here,  we went to the library to use the net for half an hour.

We left town on full stomachs,  believe me.

Getting to the turnoff to Aucar and still climbing followed by descents we came across the Isla de las Almas Navegantes.

We rode across a board walk spanning the few hundred metres across the water and onto the isla.

 Here there was a church, graveyard and a small arboretum. Wandering about it was the perfect place to camp.

Vistas back to Quemchi across the bay were on offer. These were across hundreds of floats  marking the position of the muscle farms. We found a great site on a point overlooking the bay.

A place, that would get the early morning sun.

I had eaten to much crab for lunch.

Having been off the main road for a couple of days here, the place had that island feeling about it, no one in too much of a hurry, and the ocean never far away.

We spent the afternoon reading, both of us still fairly worn out after yesterday.

Wandering around the island, it was pleasing to find out the name of this rampant bamboo so common here in this part of Chile.

It is called Quila. It infests most plant communities we have seen.

Those from the lower ranges to here on the coast on an island. Interestingly,  there are still bright green parrots about often seen in flowering trees, in groups.

Callum, now has a taste for dulce de leche, so we are getting through plenty of this. He won’t touch mate, saying it tastes like grass.

26/11/2013 Aucar to fairground 6km from Castro

D65, T5/7, Av12.58, Max68, Tot 22,625, 12,826

Great day with cold southerlies

 

As expected we got the first morning rays, it was quite mild without the wind.

We left the island at about 0930, thanking a groundsman on the way out.

There was a mussel  (chorito) factory at the enterance to the island.

We drank water from a barrel in the cemetery. Many factories here are on water courses.

Again,  the road was up and down. The downhill was so quick there was no point in changing into a high gear, rather,  leave it in low gear and just roll up the other side till you are at the correct speed for the low gear.

These hills are some of the steepest climbed on the trip so far, they are only short and on loose gravel they suck all our energy at a rapid rate.

Five km into the day, we stopped to buy bananas, and chocolate.

Cal is still eating Dorritos and other things he is used to.

Again, there were some really steep climbs, they really take it out of you. The day was a mix of tar and gravel, more tar thankfully.

We stopped for lunch in Dalcahue. After checking every ferretería on our way so far without finding Bencina, some was found here so we stocked up with 2 litres for the stove.

We had lunch in the local park. Here they were restoring a Jesuit church. We have passed a few old timber churches similar but smaller on the way.

Wanting to know what was being grown in low plastic shade house type structures we stopped at a farm where they were working in one.

The owner took us for a walk through his operation.

The farmer said they were growing Pon Pon, a kind of spagnum moss from the forests here. It is collected, dried and sent to Japan and China, among other countries for use in shampoos and other cosmetics.

They sell it dry by the kilo.

All the small pueblitos visited on the coast have vibrant ports, many fishing boats are tied up and sit on the beaches at low tide.

Mussel farming is huge here with large processing factories in many places.

The wind chill factor plays a big role in riding attire, out of the wind it is pleasant. In it, one needs to wear a raincoat just to stay warm in the southerlies.

Nearing Castro we needed to find a camp so as to get into the capital early.

Again getting out of the wind was an issue.

Down one track to an inlet was ideal but we just could not avoid the wind.

The inlet here got visits from Flamingos in May so the owner told me.

Back up on the highway we found another side track, this led to a paddock. In here, there were some temporary structures. Later we found out there was a food festival here last weekend. An annual event.

We set up under a tarp on a wooden frame.

Anyway some guys came along and were dismantling everything around us.

Kindly they left our little bit of shelter.

A basic meal of soup and carnita was enjoyed with coffee and hot chocolate.

The wind died down as the evening progressed. The evenings are still quite cool, beanies are still mandatory attire, for me anyway.


27/11/2013 From fair ground to Castró, Chiloé

D11, T45min, Av12, Max52, Tot 22,636 12,837


 

 Up for a bit urinary relief at 0300 in the morning, revealed a misty damp morning on the way. An hour later the old tarp above us had reached saturation point. The dripping started.

It was a kind of so be it moment, aint nothing we were going to do about it.

We had decided last night not to have breakfast and head straight to Castro in the morning.

Packing up, we left the place as we had found it, as always. Not even a tea bag remains at one of my campsites. Only buried toilet paper and a bit of "business".


We were crossing the paddock by 0830. The wind had a little bit of direction in it from the salmon meal factory, riding towards it was like burying your head in a packet of goldfish flakes. That’s, if you could find one big enough.

It was a leisurely ride into Castro, we were both starving. The packet of coconut flavoured biscuits for brekky  did not go far.

Back on Ruta 5, traffic was heavy, though not a problem.

At the top of the hill before dropping into town we found great hostal, the Torre de Babel.

In Puerto Montt, there was a misunderstanding with my bearing repairs. Consequently, they were not inspected.

On the way here, I could hear some grinding in the rear wheel. The bike was taken to the only shop in town.

Upon dismantling the axles in both wheels, the front ones were replaced purely as a preventative measure.

The rear well, well that was another story. The non drive side was cool. On the drive side the plastic bearing holder was gone and the bearings were like chipped marbles.The shop had no new race.

So from here, a trip by bus and ferry is to be made back to Puerto Montt, back wheel in hand  for the parts.

The hostal has all the facilities one was used to, it is luxury to say the least. Callum will stay here tomorrow and visit the sights.

As I write Cal is cooking blanched veges and mashed potato with a pre roasted chook. The hostels’ oven door is not present for reasons not enquired about.

Today we found out we have to wait till next Thursday to catch a ferry from the island to Chaitén on the mainland. It only operates one day a week.

This gives us the opportunity to further explore this unique part of Chile. We hope to visit the southern pacific coast on the island.  

It is so nice not having to be anywhere at any time. Having this luxury is still something so special to me. Sometimes I have to pinch myself to think, hey!, there is really nowhere I have to be today, or anyone I need to contact.

At this point in my life, it is like an intangible drug beyond further description.

There is plenty of time later in life to possibly work or just hang about in the company of others and persue  the responsibility that comes with it.  

These attributes just spoken about are what money just can’t buy, you don’t need much to participate in  this lifestyle.

Hostals and motels are really just places to regroup at, have a shower, wash some gear before getting back to the real world. That of waking up to the morning sun filtering through my tent at a location never before frequented .

Sometimes I feel  for people that work through the last exciting physical years of their lives to retire in their sixties. This little window of adventure in the late fifties is pretty damn special for me.
I feel many people in their 50's are worried about preparing financially for their future, or more to the point are still working to sustain their lifestyles.
Lifestyles where you can't smell the daisies.
I  know,  that if your mind is in the right place, things will always work themselves out, just as sure as a stream flows from high to lower ground..  This is ever-so important.
Having said this a persons financial position has bearings on these comments, but at the end of the day you should be the master of your own destiny, not some lecherous financial institution.
Afterall their best clients are those who have what they really can't afford, or simply don't know when enough is enough.


Though of course there are people happy doing this,  or are they? of course there are...........

To have been working these few years and a few to come, would have been like scraping the icing off the cake before eating it, for me.  

If my health fails me after this jaunt, so be it. In the words of Pink Floyd: “The memories of an old man, are the deeds of a man in his prime”

In short, I will have hoped to realised many dreams in this time. This realization will always be a warmth with me as I age.

The words. “I wish I had” wont haunt me at a later stage when I do have more spare time but lack the health or motivation to fulfil any wishes.

Pictureit had been a big day for us and it wasn't over yet. The ferry to Chiloé from Pagua

PictureNormas kitchen

PictureFirewood keeps many people warm, Pon Pon houses on left. Typical dwelling on island

PictureDead meat, Quemchi. Andes looking east, in the background.

PictureOn our way to Isletta Aucar

PictureTypical Jesuit architecture on a small scale.

PictureWaterfront, Dalcahue. ferry going to isla Quinchao

PictureThe coast south of Puerto Montt. Near Angelmo

PictureMuscle farms everywhere.

PictureHard work!

PictureCangrejo!

Picturelooking back to Quemchi

PictureSuch a rampant weed, though it has some uses.

PicturePon pon, a native spagnum moss. Its collection and its subsequent sale is causing environmental problems in the islands native forests. It can take 15 years from seed to grow,.

PictureThe pad, hobo central! 7 km out of Castro. Salmon meal factory in the background.

PictureOutskirts of Castro at low tide

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