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  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
Cuenca to Loja
10/4/2013 Cuenca to North of the river, 6km from Oña

D98, Time riding5.5 hrs, time taken 9hrs, Av17, Max73 Tot12629,

Since Medellín 2485kms


It was nice to be leaving Quenca after 3 days. The owners opened up the doors early for my departure. The road much to my liking was pretty much flat for sometime. Then the climb to the Tranjillo pass began, this took me to 2520 metres.

It was pretty taxing being almost a road post to post affair, sometimes two. I kept reminding myself just how high this is even down here.

The temperature started dropping off again, once at the top coming down lunch was enjoyed at La Paz. Here too, things were bought for the proposed nights camping.

Buying 6l of water and adding the same numbers in kgs to the load, though different at first, it is amazing how soon you get used to this added weight.

Pine trees were were becoming common as altitude increased, an Alpaca was spotted, domestic I figured.

Coming off the crest of the range the ride was exhilarating to say the least. Any speed above 70km/hr is too fast for the tighter bends. Not knowing the road kept the speed respectable as well.

It was nice to be wearing the new helmet it is so light and not wanting to leave my head at speed, unlike the peak hat.

The temperature was increasing rapidly as the descent was made.

Nearing the bottom or the descent, the road had taken me to where the Rio Leon flows through the valley.

Having come down this far, a river always means that’s it, and it’s all climbing out.

Asking a farmer just before the river he kindly said I could camp on his property.

They breed Ecuadorian sheep called Carneros, carne is Spanish for meat, that is their fate is in their name. Their property only 12Ha was fully irrigated by gravity from lines way back up the highway. It was well set out.

The spot I asked to use across was a bit windy, so his daughter said come with her, I said this paddock is ok, She said no, come up here to her grandfathers house. It was a palatial place on a nob overlooking the whole valley. A gazebo and sauna were part of the almost finished house. We all had a good chat.

Then after I had set up, she comes back and says I have to pay. Blown away, would describe my first reaction. The price she wanted was what a normal motel costs me.

Anyway, talk about a sour taste in my mouth. If she had said I would have to pay when I asked to stay that would have been no problem.

These people were wealthy by Ecuadorian standards, they told me the house was costing $150,000 to build. They were actually nice people, money had possibly upped their “wants”.

Builders at the house said I was the first cyclist to stay there.

They really weren’t offering a place to camp out of kindness. To be honest this is the first encounter of dodgeyness since having been in South America or the US for that matter.

To make matters worse a cat kept me awake all night.

11/4/2013 Above Rio Leon creek to a pine plantation north of Urdaneta

D30, T 8hrs, odo 3hrs 20mins, Av 8.49, Max 61, Tot 12659

Fine and cool, 2659


It was nice to leave this place, even though  huge climb was ahead. After climbing for an hour, drinks were enjoyed at Oña. I didn’t eat because back at the house a huge omelet was prepared.

From here on south it was all up hill for 30k.

It was cold and continuous climbing. The views were expansive to say the least. The parent material in the area is very light coloured. The views were splashed with white scars everywhere, either from land slippage or where tracks had been cut across slopes almost everywhere I might add.

After sometime, I had a feeling not experienced before, that of no strength and stomach problems.

Both legs were getting cramp periodically in the thighs. It could be felt as it came on.

All I could do was ride 50 m at a time. Physiologically I was in a bad place, cursing at rounding a bend to find the road further climbing. I do believe I was not enjoying this for the first time ever.

Now looking for any excuse not to ride I was stopping to talk to anyone, and getting off the bike to sit.

Next I had to walk up the most gentlest slopes, even at this altitude normally I felt on top of it.

Talking to a guy at the road to a Pueblita, he told me by bus to top was 10 minutes away. At this rate that meant over an hour for me.

Further up the road, a heap of prescription drugs had been tossed down below the road. Great, another excuse not to ride.

There were all sorts of packets of pills and vials of liquid, all in date, though they had been through a couple of wet periods.
The unwanted proceeds of a robbery I guessed.

 It was interesting looking and reading what I could understand. Had I better interpreted the use of a few of these, my first aid kit might have got a replenish or more to the point an upgrade suitable for a hypochondriac.

Shit I really did have to push on at all costs. The top was now supposedly in sight.

I was really losing the plot by now. Finally arriving there a 1330hrs, my normal enthusiasm was not  with me.

Pulling in at telephone towers I could not find water so moved on. One thing observed is that when towers come into sight or passed you are at the top of the climb.

I knew I couldn’t make the next town, miles away at Saraguro. Firstly I needed water.

This was got from a tiny arroyito that flowed into a culvert under the road. Problem was I could hardly bend my legs to reach down to where it fell into the deep pit. Finally with much pain from the cramps enough water was filtered into the MSR dromedary from my water bottles.

By now it was cold, I was cold and just needed a campsite.

Loading up again and totally aware of the need to stay focused, a chain blocking a track into a pine plantation was spotted.

Waiting for no cars to be within sight an hasty exit from the highway was made with all the energy I could muster.

Once out of sight.

I parked the bike against a stump, lay down and without knowing it woke up three quarters of an hour later.

This exit was worth it, further down the track a campsite was found on a 5 inch bed of pine needles in amongst the pine forest just off the track.

Looking about the place looked unused, with no fresh wheel tracks or sign of animals.

The forest had been ravaged by fire. Most trees were in poor health, mostly useless for timber production.

Slowly, so slowly, setting up camp. I needed a cup of tea. Anyway I just could not stop drinking it, 4 cups were had, Earl Grey just the best for me.

A huge bowl of soup was also savoured. It was then I knew that I had been dehydrated. The cold temperature had disguised the fact, on memory I sweated all the way up that hill and never really drank because it was so cold, like my water.

I was now drinking more water.

My rubbish was hung in a tree away from camp.

As soon as it got dark the tent was my refuge. Here it was nice to have to have realised, water or lack of it caused the days problem.

 It was the most difficult day yet experienced. Emotionally with these hills, this altitude and the weight of my kit, anything less than a deep desire and enjoyment  to and derived from this activity would spell disaster.

Dehydration had robbed me of both those prerequisites on this day.

A lot was learnt from this experience. Especially that of cold temperatures and perspiration.

This was the most comfortable campsite yet, the bed of  pine needles was bliss.

12/4/2013

North of Urdaneta  to the top of the range Sth of Saraguro

D27, T 6hrs, riding2hrs, Av12, Max72. Tot12686, 2686 since Medellín


Waking up, refreshed describes my disposition, I was so happy that my well being had returned. Porridge and coffee were enjoyed.

Knowing last night that I had a tidy downhill ride ahead. First up in the morning, 14km of downhill was before me.

In 25 min, 14.5 k were covered with an average speed of 35km/hr. All yesterday I covered 30 kms.

Arriving in Saraguro, a small pueblo with a notable market, lunch was enjoyed for an hour while chatting with a few people and the owner. I was impressed we all actually understood each other, talking about a variety of topics.

Though my Spanish is still pretty dodgy.

The best fish soup was had along with two bottles of coke and two local herbal teas. Pop corn and platano fritos were thrown in a doggy bag.

Here in town, bread was bought, so was tuna, bananas, a huge mango and apples for dinner

Riding up the next range, and stopping as usual, I took note of the perspiration dripping onto the road, it was a constant drip, like that from a tap. This confirmed what transpired yesterday.

Stopping to chat to a guy with a dog on the roadside, he told me dogs are free on buses. Everywhere along this isolated road people are waiting for the buses.

Eucalypts are the only tree species of any significance outside of pine plantations passed yesterday. 

People had been telling me there were three cyclists ahead of me. Five kms apart and never shall we meet.

A guy offered me a lift to Loja, 1 hour away, he said, bloody tempting, but no was my reply. The temp was about 17°.

I felt like an easy day, just to make sure yesterdays problems had left any health issues.

So water was obtained from another culvert. The pits where the water flows into before flowing under the road are bloody deep with vertical concrete sides,  this particular one was at least 10 foot, once in you wouldn’t get out.

I choose water that flows from the forest where hopefully no stock or people live in its small catchment.

Anyway, this particular flow had a super deep pit. The only way to access the water, best from above the road, was to crawl through the culvert from the low side of the road.

Thankfully due to the high rainfall the culverts are very big, a less than uncomfortable crouch saw me cross under the road, legs slightly spread to avoid the small water flow.

The water was remarkably clear.

Five hundred metres on on a left hand bend going doing a track was seen leaving the road into bush.

It was 1400hrs, great, an easy afternoon would be had just pottering around my camp.

 Once out of sight I walked down the track. Wheel marks revealed someone had been here a couple of weeks ago maybe.

Puddles on the track had no silt in suspension.

 Going back to get the bike, a flat area had been found on the track. The sides were all bush.

Camp was set up in the sun, it was nice to have time to explore some native vegetation.

There were bromeliads and orchids everywhere, it was fascinating.

Of a little concern but of no real worry was some fresh diggings amongst the trees on the bank of the track.

A track lead into the forest with blaze marks, so humans had passed here, not animals.

I figured if they had been here to get whatever, they had it and would not be back in a hurry. The diggings only looked a week old.

I was so nice eating fresh fruit in the afternoon warmth out of the wind, taking in the steep countryside.

A movie was enjoyed, one called Red Dog, an Aussie movie about a legendary dog in a mining town in the 70’s in WA. It was a bit of a tear jerker believe me.

Hey, there was no one around for the need to arise to have to hang in the theatre for all the credits, to get your shit together and water from your eyes, before leaving your seat.

It was a great movie, if you get a chance you will love it , especially those who like dogs.

13/04/2013 Sth of Saraguro to Loja

D66, T5, Av15.37, Max 60, Tot12751, 2752

Wet and bloody cold with strong winds 12° on tops, 20+ in Loja


I woke up to the sound of gentle rain on the, tent fly, the tarp had not been erected.

Consequently things were packed in the rain, not even a coffee was had.

I knew, tonight would be in a motel in Loja 66kms south. A few hills but yes, a hot shower and all the other little niceties awaited.

Three days with no shower, one was going to be divine, followed by a shave.

Again a pleasant downhill run was waiting on entrance to the highway. I also like to get back onto the road unnoticed.

In the tiny pueblo of San Lucas the only comedor was found and scrambled eggs rice and coffee were enjoyed, the husband much to my laughter had just baked a huge cake to celebrate the first anniversary of the new teacher to their school.

The kids take English a part of their studies.

The tops now were very windy, my thermometer showed 12°C, this would have been less with the wind chill factor.

My coat and jumper were worn,

I am now really getting used to this new helmet worn above a tube thing that soaks up a lot of sweat.

A bus nearly crashed into a cow being led across the road, he did an almighty swerve to avoid it, I was just behind at the time.

Just up the road were a big bunch of ladies, all traditionally dressed in their hats, dresses, long socks, black shoes, shawls and shirts, some with babies slung on their backs in a hammock like set up.

They were catching the bus south to Saraguro to the Saturday markets.

At the top of the next range and out of water, I yelled out to the lady if I could get water, come on in she said.

We introduced ourselves and she invited me into the kitchen area. It had a wooden floor as you walked in and then became cobbled. In the middle was a fire burning with no chimney.

A big pot of water was on the boil and three women were huddled around it.

I asked Cilia if the water was potable, yes she said. However I used my filter at the sink. I let her taste the filtered water.

Telling her she was drinking milk of the mother. We all had a good laugh, she asked me what the filter cost.

They owned owned five cows had made cheese each week and went to the Saraguro markets to sell it.

It was a very pleasurable encounter with some lovely humble, but rich people. These indigenous people are such a proud people here, proud enough to still wear their traditional clothing on a daily basis.

Proud enough to have led to the ousting of two governments on environmental and land rights issues.

 From here it was all downhill to Loja. Devin had been right, it was down and back up again from Cuenca. Some important lessons had learnt along the way.

The camping was great with so many spots on offer. The weather had mostly been kind. Many local rural Ecuadorians had shared a little of their time with me, this was such a pleasure.

Along the way it became very noticeable that the two most tossed items on the road were bottles and disposable nappies. There was a disposable nappy every 100m. They were in all stages of decay. Though sadly will never fully biodegrade.

They were in the gutters which all lead into streams and on into people’s water.

Arriving on the outskirts of Loja after a great downhill run and an ever increasing temperature, a huge fragrant pineapple was bought and a couple of Sapote, I had a craving for a pineapple.

At one corner in town a guy was cooking paper thin beef kebabs and potatoes on a mobile bbq. The smoke carried carried an irresistible smell. I gravitated towards the cart and its food like a genie into a bottle.

Three of these delightful snacks were had on the corner. So nice to have a bit of meat off charcoal .

A motel was found with ground level rooms, the Cosmapolitino, highly recommended.

My washing was done, the tent hung to dry and the footprint.

A woman was seen wheeling her bike into the opposite room. I introduced myself.

I introduced myself, she was riding with a friend. Herself from Canada and Peter from the states.

She was totally worn out after todays ride, they covered pretty much the same distance as me.

We headed out for tea together.

Believe it or not I was the junior member in the group.

Pete was 75 and Deidre 60, they had met through warmshowers when Peter was riding in Canada.

They are here for a couple months riding from Quito to Cuzco and catching buses where need be.

We had an enjoyable night out together.

14/4/2013 Loja

We all got up pretty early and headed over the road to a coffee shop for breakfast.

Then caught the bus to Vilcabamba which is a town exactly like Bellingen, near my home town, for those who have been there.

Like Loja here it is very popular with expats living there.

Craft shops were everywhere as were really nice cafes and restaurants. We cruised about here for sometime then got the bus back to Loja.

Pete was feeling a bit crook in the evening, Diedre and I headed out for dinner to load up on carbs for tomorrow. We bought Pete a soup back from the restaurant.

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A funeral directors, embalmer couldn't do a better job
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Carneros, Ecuadorian sheep.
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As usual the scenerywas impressive.
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Wrapped that I was invigorated and motivated for the day ahead.
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Stopping under these formations was tempting fate to say the least.
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I was tempted to wet a line around here. I had new lures and line purchased in Cuenca, maybe another day.
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Downtown Loja
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Downtown Vilcabamba
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Gently climbing out of Cuenca.
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First nights camp
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Second nights camp
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El Parque, Saraguro.
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The third nights poz.
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I was not hard to see the road travelled.
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Loja from the top of the range, a nice cruise into town was enjoyed.
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From right to left, three decades of years here. 50's,60's, 70's, downtown Loja. Deidre and Pete both good company.
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El Centro, Vilcabamba, after a divine tomato and avocado soup.
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Bromeliads in trees at my camp, it was quite amazing. it had always been a dream to see these plants in the wild.
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The "shit" you find on the road.
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