Cuenca to Loja
10/4/2013 Cuenca to North of the river, 6km from Oña
D98, Time riding5.5 hrs, time taken 9hrs, Av17, Max73 Tot12629,
Since Medellín 2485kms
It was nice to be leaving Quenca after 3 days. The owners opened up the doors early for my departure. The road much to my liking was pretty much flat for sometime. Then the climb to the Tranjillo pass began, this took me to 2520 metres.
It was pretty taxing being almost a road post to post affair, sometimes two. I kept reminding myself just how high this is even down here.
The temperature started dropping off again, once at the top coming down lunch was enjoyed at La Paz. Here too, things were bought for the proposed nights camping.
Buying 6l of water and adding the same numbers in kgs to the load, though different at first, it is amazing how soon you get used to this added weight.
Pine trees were were becoming common as altitude increased, an Alpaca was spotted, domestic I figured.
Coming off the crest of the range the ride was exhilarating to say the least. Any speed above 70km/hr is too fast for the tighter bends. Not knowing the road kept the speed respectable as well.
It was nice to be wearing the new helmet it is so light and not wanting to leave my head at speed, unlike the peak hat.
The temperature was increasing rapidly as the descent was made.
Nearing the bottom or the descent, the road had taken me to where the Rio Leon flows through the valley.
Having come down this far, a river always means that’s it, and it’s all climbing out.
Asking a farmer just before the river he kindly said I could camp on his property.
They breed Ecuadorian sheep called Carneros, carne is Spanish for meat, that is their fate is in their name. Their property only 12Ha was fully irrigated by gravity from lines way back up the highway. It was well set out.
The spot I asked to use across was a bit windy, so his daughter said come with her, I said this paddock is ok, She said no, come up here to her grandfathers house. It was a palatial place on a nob overlooking the whole valley. A gazebo and sauna were part of the almost finished house. We all had a good chat.
Then after I had set up, she comes back and says I have to pay. Blown away, would describe my first reaction. The price she wanted was what a normal motel costs me.
Anyway, talk about a sour taste in my mouth. If she had said I would have to pay when I asked to stay that would have been no problem.
These people were wealthy by Ecuadorian standards, they told me the house was costing $150,000 to build. They were actually nice people, money had possibly upped their “wants”.
Builders at the house said I was the first cyclist to stay there.
They really weren’t offering a place to camp out of kindness. To be honest this is the first encounter of dodgeyness since having been in South America or the US for that matter.
To make matters worse a cat kept me awake all night.
11/4/2013 Above Rio Leon creek to a pine plantation north of Urdaneta
D30, T 8hrs, odo 3hrs 20mins, Av 8.49, Max 61, Tot 12659
Fine and cool, 2659
It was nice to leave this place, even though huge climb was ahead. After climbing for an hour, drinks were enjoyed at Oña. I didn’t eat because back at the house a huge omelet was prepared.
From here on south it was all up hill for 30k.
It was cold and continuous climbing. The views were expansive to say the least. The parent material in the area is very light coloured. The views were splashed with white scars everywhere, either from land slippage or where tracks had been cut across slopes almost everywhere I might add.
After sometime, I had a feeling not experienced before, that of no strength and stomach problems.
Both legs were getting cramp periodically in the thighs. It could be felt as it came on.
All I could do was ride 50 m at a time. Physiologically I was in a bad place, cursing at rounding a bend to find the road further climbing. I do believe I was not enjoying this for the first time ever.
Now looking for any excuse not to ride I was stopping to talk to anyone, and getting off the bike to sit.
Next I had to walk up the most gentlest slopes, even at this altitude normally I felt on top of it.
Talking to a guy at the road to a Pueblita, he told me by bus to top was 10 minutes away. At this rate that meant over an hour for me.
Further up the road, a heap of prescription drugs had been tossed down below the road. Great, another excuse not to ride.
There were all sorts of packets of pills and vials of liquid, all in date, though they had been through a couple of wet periods.
The unwanted proceeds of a robbery I guessed.
It was interesting looking and reading what I could understand. Had I better interpreted the use of a few of these, my first aid kit might have got a replenish or more to the point an upgrade suitable for a hypochondriac.
Shit I really did have to push on at all costs. The top was now supposedly in sight.
I was really losing the plot by now. Finally arriving there a 1330hrs, my normal enthusiasm was not with me.
Pulling in at telephone towers I could not find water so moved on. One thing observed is that when towers come into sight or passed you are at the top of the climb.
I knew I couldn’t make the next town, miles away at Saraguro. Firstly I needed water.
This was got from a tiny arroyito that flowed into a culvert under the road. Problem was I could hardly bend my legs to reach down to where it fell into the deep pit. Finally with much pain from the cramps enough water was filtered into the MSR dromedary from my water bottles.
By now it was cold, I was cold and just needed a campsite.
Loading up again and totally aware of the need to stay focused, a chain blocking a track into a pine plantation was spotted.
Waiting for no cars to be within sight an hasty exit from the highway was made with all the energy I could muster.
Once out of sight.
I parked the bike against a stump, lay down and without knowing it woke up three quarters of an hour later.
This exit was worth it, further down the track a campsite was found on a 5 inch bed of pine needles in amongst the pine forest just off the track.
Looking about the place looked unused, with no fresh wheel tracks or sign of animals.
The forest had been ravaged by fire. Most trees were in poor health, mostly useless for timber production.
Slowly, so slowly, setting up camp. I needed a cup of tea. Anyway I just could not stop drinking it, 4 cups were had, Earl Grey just the best for me.
A huge bowl of soup was also savoured. It was then I knew that I had been dehydrated. The cold temperature had disguised the fact, on memory I sweated all the way up that hill and never really drank because it was so cold, like my water.
I was now drinking more water.
My rubbish was hung in a tree away from camp.
As soon as it got dark the tent was my refuge. Here it was nice to have to have realised, water or lack of it caused the days problem.
It was the most difficult day yet experienced. Emotionally with these hills, this altitude and the weight of my kit, anything less than a deep desire and enjoyment to and derived from this activity would spell disaster.
Dehydration had robbed me of both those prerequisites on this day.
A lot was learnt from this experience. Especially that of cold temperatures and perspiration.
This was the most comfortable campsite yet, the bed of pine needles was bliss.
12/4/2013
North of Urdaneta to the top of the range Sth of Saraguro
D27, T 6hrs, riding2hrs, Av12, Max72. Tot12686, 2686 since Medellín
Waking up, refreshed describes my disposition, I was so happy that my well being had returned. Porridge and coffee were enjoyed.
Knowing last night that I had a tidy downhill ride ahead. First up in the morning, 14km of downhill was before me.
In 25 min, 14.5 k were covered with an average speed of 35km/hr. All yesterday I covered 30 kms.
Arriving in Saraguro, a small pueblo with a notable market, lunch was enjoyed for an hour while chatting with a few people and the owner. I was impressed we all actually understood each other, talking about a variety of topics.
Though my Spanish is still pretty dodgy.
The best fish soup was had along with two bottles of coke and two local herbal teas. Pop corn and platano fritos were thrown in a doggy bag.
Here in town, bread was bought, so was tuna, bananas, a huge mango and apples for dinner
Riding up the next range, and stopping as usual, I took note of the perspiration dripping onto the road, it was a constant drip, like that from a tap. This confirmed what transpired yesterday.
Stopping to chat to a guy with a dog on the roadside, he told me dogs are free on buses. Everywhere along this isolated road people are waiting for the buses.
Eucalypts are the only tree species of any significance outside of pine plantations passed yesterday.
People had been telling me there were three cyclists ahead of me. Five kms apart and never shall we meet.
A guy offered me a lift to Loja, 1 hour away, he said, bloody tempting, but no was my reply. The temp was about 17°.
I felt like an easy day, just to make sure yesterdays problems had left any health issues.
So water was obtained from another culvert. The pits where the water flows into before flowing under the road are bloody deep with vertical concrete sides, this particular one was at least 10 foot, once in you wouldn’t get out.
I choose water that flows from the forest where hopefully no stock or people live in its small catchment.
Anyway, this particular flow had a super deep pit. The only way to access the water, best from above the road, was to crawl through the culvert from the low side of the road.
Thankfully due to the high rainfall the culverts are very big, a less than uncomfortable crouch saw me cross under the road, legs slightly spread to avoid the small water flow.
The water was remarkably clear.
Five hundred metres on on a left hand bend going doing a track was seen leaving the road into bush.
It was 1400hrs, great, an easy afternoon would be had just pottering around my camp.
Once out of sight I walked down the track. Wheel marks revealed someone had been here a couple of weeks ago maybe.
Puddles on the track had no silt in suspension.
Going back to get the bike, a flat area had been found on the track. The sides were all bush.
Camp was set up in the sun, it was nice to have time to explore some native vegetation.
There were bromeliads and orchids everywhere, it was fascinating.
Of a little concern but of no real worry was some fresh diggings amongst the trees on the bank of the track.
A track lead into the forest with blaze marks, so humans had passed here, not animals.
I figured if they had been here to get whatever, they had it and would not be back in a hurry. The diggings only looked a week old.
I was so nice eating fresh fruit in the afternoon warmth out of the wind, taking in the steep countryside.
A movie was enjoyed, one called Red Dog, an Aussie movie about a legendary dog in a mining town in the 70’s in WA. It was a bit of a tear jerker believe me.
Hey, there was no one around for the need to arise to have to hang in the theatre for all the credits, to get your shit together and water from your eyes, before leaving your seat.
It was a great movie, if you get a chance you will love it , especially those who like dogs.
13/04/2013 Sth of Saraguro to Loja
D66, T5, Av15.37, Max 60, Tot12751, 2752
Wet and bloody cold with strong winds 12° on tops, 20+ in Loja
I woke up to the sound of gentle rain on the, tent fly, the tarp had not been erected.
Consequently things were packed in the rain, not even a coffee was had.
I knew, tonight would be in a motel in Loja 66kms south. A few hills but yes, a hot shower and all the other little niceties awaited.
Three days with no shower, one was going to be divine, followed by a shave.
Again a pleasant downhill run was waiting on entrance to the highway. I also like to get back onto the road unnoticed.
In the tiny pueblo of San Lucas the only comedor was found and scrambled eggs rice and coffee were enjoyed, the husband much to my laughter had just baked a huge cake to celebrate the first anniversary of the new teacher to their school.
The kids take English a part of their studies.
The tops now were very windy, my thermometer showed 12°C, this would have been less with the wind chill factor.
My coat and jumper were worn,
I am now really getting used to this new helmet worn above a tube thing that soaks up a lot of sweat.
A bus nearly crashed into a cow being led across the road, he did an almighty swerve to avoid it, I was just behind at the time.
Just up the road were a big bunch of ladies, all traditionally dressed in their hats, dresses, long socks, black shoes, shawls and shirts, some with babies slung on their backs in a hammock like set up.
They were catching the bus south to Saraguro to the Saturday markets.
At the top of the next range and out of water, I yelled out to the lady if I could get water, come on in she said.
We introduced ourselves and she invited me into the kitchen area. It had a wooden floor as you walked in and then became cobbled. In the middle was a fire burning with no chimney.
A big pot of water was on the boil and three women were huddled around it.
I asked Cilia if the water was potable, yes she said. However I used my filter at the sink. I let her taste the filtered water.
Telling her she was drinking milk of the mother. We all had a good laugh, she asked me what the filter cost.
They owned owned five cows had made cheese each week and went to the Saraguro markets to sell it.
It was a very pleasurable encounter with some lovely humble, but rich people. These indigenous people are such a proud people here, proud enough to still wear their traditional clothing on a daily basis.
Proud enough to have led to the ousting of two governments on environmental and land rights issues.
From here it was all downhill to Loja. Devin had been right, it was down and back up again from Cuenca. Some important lessons had learnt along the way.
The camping was great with so many spots on offer. The weather had mostly been kind. Many local rural Ecuadorians had shared a little of their time with me, this was such a pleasure.
Along the way it became very noticeable that the two most tossed items on the road were bottles and disposable nappies. There was a disposable nappy every 100m. They were in all stages of decay. Though sadly will never fully biodegrade.
They were in the gutters which all lead into streams and on into people’s water.
Arriving on the outskirts of Loja after a great downhill run and an ever increasing temperature, a huge fragrant pineapple was bought and a couple of Sapote, I had a craving for a pineapple.
At one corner in town a guy was cooking paper thin beef kebabs and potatoes on a mobile bbq. The smoke carried carried an irresistible smell. I gravitated towards the cart and its food like a genie into a bottle.
Three of these delightful snacks were had on the corner. So nice to have a bit of meat off charcoal .
A motel was found with ground level rooms, the Cosmapolitino, highly recommended.
My washing was done, the tent hung to dry and the footprint.
A woman was seen wheeling her bike into the opposite room. I introduced myself.
I introduced myself, she was riding with a friend. Herself from Canada and Peter from the states.
She was totally worn out after todays ride, they covered pretty much the same distance as me.
We headed out for tea together.
Believe it or not I was the junior member in the group.
Pete was 75 and Deidre 60, they had met through warmshowers when Peter was riding in Canada.
They are here for a couple months riding from Quito to Cuzco and catching buses where need be.
We had an enjoyable night out together.
14/4/2013 Loja
We all got up pretty early and headed over the road to a coffee shop for breakfast.
Then caught the bus to Vilcabamba which is a town exactly like Bellingen, near my home town, for those who have been there.
Like Loja here it is very popular with expats living there.
Craft shops were everywhere as were really nice cafes and restaurants. We cruised about here for sometime then got the bus back to Loja.
Pete was feeling a bit crook in the evening, Diedre and I headed out for dinner to load up on carbs for tomorrow. We bought Pete a soup back from the restaurant.
D98, Time riding5.5 hrs, time taken 9hrs, Av17, Max73 Tot12629,
Since Medellín 2485kms
It was nice to be leaving Quenca after 3 days. The owners opened up the doors early for my departure. The road much to my liking was pretty much flat for sometime. Then the climb to the Tranjillo pass began, this took me to 2520 metres.
It was pretty taxing being almost a road post to post affair, sometimes two. I kept reminding myself just how high this is even down here.
The temperature started dropping off again, once at the top coming down lunch was enjoyed at La Paz. Here too, things were bought for the proposed nights camping.
Buying 6l of water and adding the same numbers in kgs to the load, though different at first, it is amazing how soon you get used to this added weight.
Pine trees were were becoming common as altitude increased, an Alpaca was spotted, domestic I figured.
Coming off the crest of the range the ride was exhilarating to say the least. Any speed above 70km/hr is too fast for the tighter bends. Not knowing the road kept the speed respectable as well.
It was nice to be wearing the new helmet it is so light and not wanting to leave my head at speed, unlike the peak hat.
The temperature was increasing rapidly as the descent was made.
Nearing the bottom or the descent, the road had taken me to where the Rio Leon flows through the valley.
Having come down this far, a river always means that’s it, and it’s all climbing out.
Asking a farmer just before the river he kindly said I could camp on his property.
They breed Ecuadorian sheep called Carneros, carne is Spanish for meat, that is their fate is in their name. Their property only 12Ha was fully irrigated by gravity from lines way back up the highway. It was well set out.
The spot I asked to use across was a bit windy, so his daughter said come with her, I said this paddock is ok, She said no, come up here to her grandfathers house. It was a palatial place on a nob overlooking the whole valley. A gazebo and sauna were part of the almost finished house. We all had a good chat.
Then after I had set up, she comes back and says I have to pay. Blown away, would describe my first reaction. The price she wanted was what a normal motel costs me.
Anyway, talk about a sour taste in my mouth. If she had said I would have to pay when I asked to stay that would have been no problem.
These people were wealthy by Ecuadorian standards, they told me the house was costing $150,000 to build. They were actually nice people, money had possibly upped their “wants”.
Builders at the house said I was the first cyclist to stay there.
They really weren’t offering a place to camp out of kindness. To be honest this is the first encounter of dodgeyness since having been in South America or the US for that matter.
To make matters worse a cat kept me awake all night.
11/4/2013 Above Rio Leon creek to a pine plantation north of Urdaneta
D30, T 8hrs, odo 3hrs 20mins, Av 8.49, Max 61, Tot 12659
Fine and cool, 2659
It was nice to leave this place, even though huge climb was ahead. After climbing for an hour, drinks were enjoyed at Oña. I didn’t eat because back at the house a huge omelet was prepared.
From here on south it was all up hill for 30k.
It was cold and continuous climbing. The views were expansive to say the least. The parent material in the area is very light coloured. The views were splashed with white scars everywhere, either from land slippage or where tracks had been cut across slopes almost everywhere I might add.
After sometime, I had a feeling not experienced before, that of no strength and stomach problems.
Both legs were getting cramp periodically in the thighs. It could be felt as it came on.
All I could do was ride 50 m at a time. Physiologically I was in a bad place, cursing at rounding a bend to find the road further climbing. I do believe I was not enjoying this for the first time ever.
Now looking for any excuse not to ride I was stopping to talk to anyone, and getting off the bike to sit.
Next I had to walk up the most gentlest slopes, even at this altitude normally I felt on top of it.
Talking to a guy at the road to a Pueblita, he told me by bus to top was 10 minutes away. At this rate that meant over an hour for me.
Further up the road, a heap of prescription drugs had been tossed down below the road. Great, another excuse not to ride.
There were all sorts of packets of pills and vials of liquid, all in date, though they had been through a couple of wet periods.
The unwanted proceeds of a robbery I guessed.
It was interesting looking and reading what I could understand. Had I better interpreted the use of a few of these, my first aid kit might have got a replenish or more to the point an upgrade suitable for a hypochondriac.
Shit I really did have to push on at all costs. The top was now supposedly in sight.
I was really losing the plot by now. Finally arriving there a 1330hrs, my normal enthusiasm was not with me.
Pulling in at telephone towers I could not find water so moved on. One thing observed is that when towers come into sight or passed you are at the top of the climb.
I knew I couldn’t make the next town, miles away at Saraguro. Firstly I needed water.
This was got from a tiny arroyito that flowed into a culvert under the road. Problem was I could hardly bend my legs to reach down to where it fell into the deep pit. Finally with much pain from the cramps enough water was filtered into the MSR dromedary from my water bottles.
By now it was cold, I was cold and just needed a campsite.
Loading up again and totally aware of the need to stay focused, a chain blocking a track into a pine plantation was spotted.
Waiting for no cars to be within sight an hasty exit from the highway was made with all the energy I could muster.
Once out of sight.
I parked the bike against a stump, lay down and without knowing it woke up three quarters of an hour later.
This exit was worth it, further down the track a campsite was found on a 5 inch bed of pine needles in amongst the pine forest just off the track.
Looking about the place looked unused, with no fresh wheel tracks or sign of animals.
The forest had been ravaged by fire. Most trees were in poor health, mostly useless for timber production.
Slowly, so slowly, setting up camp. I needed a cup of tea. Anyway I just could not stop drinking it, 4 cups were had, Earl Grey just the best for me.
A huge bowl of soup was also savoured. It was then I knew that I had been dehydrated. The cold temperature had disguised the fact, on memory I sweated all the way up that hill and never really drank because it was so cold, like my water.
I was now drinking more water.
My rubbish was hung in a tree away from camp.
As soon as it got dark the tent was my refuge. Here it was nice to have to have realised, water or lack of it caused the days problem.
It was the most difficult day yet experienced. Emotionally with these hills, this altitude and the weight of my kit, anything less than a deep desire and enjoyment to and derived from this activity would spell disaster.
Dehydration had robbed me of both those prerequisites on this day.
A lot was learnt from this experience. Especially that of cold temperatures and perspiration.
This was the most comfortable campsite yet, the bed of pine needles was bliss.
12/4/2013
North of Urdaneta to the top of the range Sth of Saraguro
D27, T 6hrs, riding2hrs, Av12, Max72. Tot12686, 2686 since Medellín
Waking up, refreshed describes my disposition, I was so happy that my well being had returned. Porridge and coffee were enjoyed.
Knowing last night that I had a tidy downhill ride ahead. First up in the morning, 14km of downhill was before me.
In 25 min, 14.5 k were covered with an average speed of 35km/hr. All yesterday I covered 30 kms.
Arriving in Saraguro, a small pueblo with a notable market, lunch was enjoyed for an hour while chatting with a few people and the owner. I was impressed we all actually understood each other, talking about a variety of topics.
Though my Spanish is still pretty dodgy.
The best fish soup was had along with two bottles of coke and two local herbal teas. Pop corn and platano fritos were thrown in a doggy bag.
Here in town, bread was bought, so was tuna, bananas, a huge mango and apples for dinner
Riding up the next range, and stopping as usual, I took note of the perspiration dripping onto the road, it was a constant drip, like that from a tap. This confirmed what transpired yesterday.
Stopping to chat to a guy with a dog on the roadside, he told me dogs are free on buses. Everywhere along this isolated road people are waiting for the buses.
Eucalypts are the only tree species of any significance outside of pine plantations passed yesterday.
People had been telling me there were three cyclists ahead of me. Five kms apart and never shall we meet.
A guy offered me a lift to Loja, 1 hour away, he said, bloody tempting, but no was my reply. The temp was about 17°.
I felt like an easy day, just to make sure yesterdays problems had left any health issues.
So water was obtained from another culvert. The pits where the water flows into before flowing under the road are bloody deep with vertical concrete sides, this particular one was at least 10 foot, once in you wouldn’t get out.
I choose water that flows from the forest where hopefully no stock or people live in its small catchment.
Anyway, this particular flow had a super deep pit. The only way to access the water, best from above the road, was to crawl through the culvert from the low side of the road.
Thankfully due to the high rainfall the culverts are very big, a less than uncomfortable crouch saw me cross under the road, legs slightly spread to avoid the small water flow.
The water was remarkably clear.
Five hundred metres on on a left hand bend going doing a track was seen leaving the road into bush.
It was 1400hrs, great, an easy afternoon would be had just pottering around my camp.
Once out of sight I walked down the track. Wheel marks revealed someone had been here a couple of weeks ago maybe.
Puddles on the track had no silt in suspension.
Going back to get the bike, a flat area had been found on the track. The sides were all bush.
Camp was set up in the sun, it was nice to have time to explore some native vegetation.
There were bromeliads and orchids everywhere, it was fascinating.
Of a little concern but of no real worry was some fresh diggings amongst the trees on the bank of the track.
A track lead into the forest with blaze marks, so humans had passed here, not animals.
I figured if they had been here to get whatever, they had it and would not be back in a hurry. The diggings only looked a week old.
I was so nice eating fresh fruit in the afternoon warmth out of the wind, taking in the steep countryside.
A movie was enjoyed, one called Red Dog, an Aussie movie about a legendary dog in a mining town in the 70’s in WA. It was a bit of a tear jerker believe me.
Hey, there was no one around for the need to arise to have to hang in the theatre for all the credits, to get your shit together and water from your eyes, before leaving your seat.
It was a great movie, if you get a chance you will love it , especially those who like dogs.
13/04/2013 Sth of Saraguro to Loja
D66, T5, Av15.37, Max 60, Tot12751, 2752
Wet and bloody cold with strong winds 12° on tops, 20+ in Loja
I woke up to the sound of gentle rain on the, tent fly, the tarp had not been erected.
Consequently things were packed in the rain, not even a coffee was had.
I knew, tonight would be in a motel in Loja 66kms south. A few hills but yes, a hot shower and all the other little niceties awaited.
Three days with no shower, one was going to be divine, followed by a shave.
Again a pleasant downhill run was waiting on entrance to the highway. I also like to get back onto the road unnoticed.
In the tiny pueblo of San Lucas the only comedor was found and scrambled eggs rice and coffee were enjoyed, the husband much to my laughter had just baked a huge cake to celebrate the first anniversary of the new teacher to their school.
The kids take English a part of their studies.
The tops now were very windy, my thermometer showed 12°C, this would have been less with the wind chill factor.
My coat and jumper were worn,
I am now really getting used to this new helmet worn above a tube thing that soaks up a lot of sweat.
A bus nearly crashed into a cow being led across the road, he did an almighty swerve to avoid it, I was just behind at the time.
Just up the road were a big bunch of ladies, all traditionally dressed in their hats, dresses, long socks, black shoes, shawls and shirts, some with babies slung on their backs in a hammock like set up.
They were catching the bus south to Saraguro to the Saturday markets.
At the top of the next range and out of water, I yelled out to the lady if I could get water, come on in she said.
We introduced ourselves and she invited me into the kitchen area. It had a wooden floor as you walked in and then became cobbled. In the middle was a fire burning with no chimney.
A big pot of water was on the boil and three women were huddled around it.
I asked Cilia if the water was potable, yes she said. However I used my filter at the sink. I let her taste the filtered water.
Telling her she was drinking milk of the mother. We all had a good laugh, she asked me what the filter cost.
They owned owned five cows had made cheese each week and went to the Saraguro markets to sell it.
It was a very pleasurable encounter with some lovely humble, but rich people. These indigenous people are such a proud people here, proud enough to still wear their traditional clothing on a daily basis.
Proud enough to have led to the ousting of two governments on environmental and land rights issues.
From here it was all downhill to Loja. Devin had been right, it was down and back up again from Cuenca. Some important lessons had learnt along the way.
The camping was great with so many spots on offer. The weather had mostly been kind. Many local rural Ecuadorians had shared a little of their time with me, this was such a pleasure.
Along the way it became very noticeable that the two most tossed items on the road were bottles and disposable nappies. There was a disposable nappy every 100m. They were in all stages of decay. Though sadly will never fully biodegrade.
They were in the gutters which all lead into streams and on into people’s water.
Arriving on the outskirts of Loja after a great downhill run and an ever increasing temperature, a huge fragrant pineapple was bought and a couple of Sapote, I had a craving for a pineapple.
At one corner in town a guy was cooking paper thin beef kebabs and potatoes on a mobile bbq. The smoke carried carried an irresistible smell. I gravitated towards the cart and its food like a genie into a bottle.
Three of these delightful snacks were had on the corner. So nice to have a bit of meat off charcoal .
A motel was found with ground level rooms, the Cosmapolitino, highly recommended.
My washing was done, the tent hung to dry and the footprint.
A woman was seen wheeling her bike into the opposite room. I introduced myself.
I introduced myself, she was riding with a friend. Herself from Canada and Peter from the states.
She was totally worn out after todays ride, they covered pretty much the same distance as me.
We headed out for tea together.
Believe it or not I was the junior member in the group.
Pete was 75 and Deidre 60, they had met through warmshowers when Peter was riding in Canada.
They are here for a couple months riding from Quito to Cuzco and catching buses where need be.
We had an enjoyable night out together.
14/4/2013 Loja
We all got up pretty early and headed over the road to a coffee shop for breakfast.
Then caught the bus to Vilcabamba which is a town exactly like Bellingen, near my home town, for those who have been there.
Like Loja here it is very popular with expats living there.
Craft shops were everywhere as were really nice cafes and restaurants. We cruised about here for sometime then got the bus back to Loja.
Pete was feeling a bit crook in the evening, Diedre and I headed out for dinner to load up on carbs for tomorrow. We bought Pete a soup back from the restaurant.
A funeral directors, embalmer couldn't do a better job
Carneros, Ecuadorian sheep.
As usual the scenerywas impressive.
Wrapped that I was invigorated and motivated for the day ahead.
Stopping under these formations was tempting fate to say the least.
I was tempted to wet a line around here. I had new lures and line purchased in Cuenca, maybe another day.
Downtown Loja
Downtown Vilcabamba
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Gently climbing out of Cuenca.
First nights camp
Second nights camp
El Parque, Saraguro.
The third nights poz.
I was not hard to see the road travelled.
Loja from the top of the range, a nice cruise into town was enjoyed.
From right to left, three decades of years here. 50's,60's, 70's, downtown Loja.
Deidre and Pete both good company.
El Centro, Vilcabamba, after a divine tomato and avocado soup.
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Bromeliads in trees at my camp, it was quite amazing. it had always been a dream to see these plants in the wild.
The "shit" you find on the road.
