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  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
Picture
Our unforgettable Ethiopian journey is nearing its end. We have had fun days and trying days. We will both leave here, full of experiences no other country could ever hope to offer!!
5/4/2015   Waliso to Endibir

D75, T4.45, Av15.81, Max58 , 39,320, 4,319

Mostly downhill till the river crossing after Wilkite

Warm cloudy day some NE wind

The time had arrived to leave Wakos, we could have stayed for a few more days, he made us feel that welcome. I felt like part of the family while here.

 Anita, a young woman from Iceland came down from Addis and spent the night with us.

We all wandered down to the Negash Resort and had one of their hot showers. Again, it was great to be sparkling clean.

Talkng to my friend Pauline in Nicaragua, she informed me my sleeping bag turned up in the post, five months later. They would not release it due to her having no ID of mine. They have sent it back to Australia. I wonder how long that trip takes?

Our last night was spent around a campfire talking.

We got away from Wakos about 1000. We both felt unbelievably refreshed and relaxed. The ride all the way to Welkite was pretty much downhill. People were reasonably friendly on the road. The “you you” and “give me money” calls were few.

In Welkite, we found a Muslim restaurant and sat down outside and enjoyed a meal of beef, it was basic, just lightly fried beef pieces with onion and white bread, it filled a spot.

Next to our outdoor table was a goat tied up waiting to be slaughtered in the next day or two.

The Muslim restaurants are great during the time when the OC’s are fasting. They always have colourful vinyl prints showing cows, goats and sheep. Often the give away is the animal tied up outside. There is always a butcher shop in the front.

Here I refilled my MSR stove bottle, I had given the fuel bought in Waliso to Wako.

It was black market petrol and had been thinned with kerosene, the Tuk Tuks use it.

In the stove it would not prime properly and left soot everywhere. Whilst in Waliso, a litre of 97% alcohol was bought for priming the stove. This is important to keep the stove free of the black soot that priming with petrol creates .

From Welkite we turned left to head across to the main road and south to Abra Minche.

This took us down to a river then back up through rolling country.

Roadworks were underway at each creek and river crossing. Almost all construction trucks and other equipment seen is of Chinese origin.

We were trying to get to Endibir, here there were hotels. Nearing the town, women in groups were seen walking along the side of the road. They were all carrying loads of sugarcane and other heavy food items like grain. Many were middle aged. They were a happy lot always chatting and never hesitated to say hello.

All along this road today, there were new houses under construction. Most were built using Eucalypt pole walls, filled with adobe and had corrugated iron roofs with high ceilings.

As we had descended all day, the temperature had warmed up. It was now quite hot. Though overcast, the UV was high, my ears got a bit burnt.

We got into Endibir about 1530 and booked the first hotel on the left as you ride into town. It was comfortable and had a bar with a restaurant.

Pedro took a bucket shower and told me the water was very cold. I opted for a swab down with my handlebar towel.

We had pasta and a beer for dinner.

As yet this area is malaria free, so we took no precautions against the odd mosquito.

Seventy five km after a week off left me very tired and relaxed. I tried to watch a movie but just could not do it.

Wako and I had swapped a lot of music and movies.

It was nice to be back on the road again.

 

6/4/2015 Endibir to Lera

D72, T5.45, Av12.41, Max68 , 39,393, 4,391

28km up to 3050m, 15km down to Lera

Hot, cooler on tops

We were on the rod nice and early at 0800. On the way out of town I met  Peace Corp guy who was 1 year into a 2 year posting in Endibir. He was working in a school.

Once out of town a steady climb began. Most of the housing now was large Tukuls. Many with small chimneys in the peak. The country even had a colour of green about it.

The people up here were friendly and very few asked for anything.

Once again, the Eucalypts played a huge role in people’s lives. All had been coppiced and people were now cutting down the regrowth to  make construction poles.

We stopped at a couple of small stalls and bought peanuts and biscuits. No one had refrigerators so for me buying drinks was kept to a minimum.

A stop was made at a village for pasta. Our cheapest yet at 6 birr each.

The climb levelled out and we forund ourselves in rolling hill country all around 3000m.

The people up here instead of wearing Congos are now wearing full plastic shoes, obviously to keep their feet warm and dry.

In  a reasonable size village we hunted out a Muslim restaurant and sat down to a meat dish, very basic but nice.

We were both wornout, I fell asleep at the table for a short time. As always, our bikes are parked in full view.

Each time my bar bag, camera and knife are taken off the bike.

Often we have to tell people to move aside so we can always see the bikes.

The young children really are like flies. Older people with sticks will shoo them away and within 2 minutes they slowly drift bake around us.

I call them “Niñito mosquitos”.

From here we kept on in the rolling country and descending a bit.

At 1630 another descent began on a piece of road that was still under construction by a Yemenis company. They were using all European and Japanese gear, Iveco trucks and Komatsu dozers.

One new Iveco dump truck was seen tipped on its side in  a village. The last climb back to 300m saw us both doing it very tough . It was on a piece of road still under construction, the dust was thick.

Speaking to the owner of the contracting firm near the top, he said it was 15km down to the village of Lera. He told us of a pension there.

This road connecting route 7 & 9, or between Welkite and Hosaina has just been recently asphalted, they are still working on it in places. The surface has been great all day.

So the day had two ascents with rolling hills in the middle and a 15km run down at the end to Lera, where we would never have found the pension had we not been told about it.

Pedro took a cold bucket shower, I boiled some water and had a hot swab down in my Ortlieb folding bowl.

It was quite cool up here. Having a cold shower I feel is a good way to catch a cold, especially after sweating alot of the day. The towel down makes me feel fresh.

Dinner in the blacked out town was pasta again.

7/4/2015 Lera to Areka

D94, T7, Av17, Max68 , 39,393, 4,486

Almost all downhill except for a small climb around Goyogena

Very hot and humid at the end of the day      

We both had trouble with things crawling over us in our beds last night. I didn’t get bitten, though they were enough to wake me up.

Up early as usual, help was given to a guy trying to get an old Hilux going, we were successful, just as the battery was near not having enough power to crank the engine.

We were on the road by 0800.

It was a pleasure riding gently downhill. There was nowhere else at the time I would have rather been, it was bliss in the coolish morning air taking in the rural scenery.

Soon we got to Hosaina, wow what a dramatic change. People were everywhere and the “money, money”, where you go, Farangi, you you started.

We had it so good the last few weeks.

People were yelling at us. Putting their hands out, running after us, and touching the bikes.

Once out of town the same continued, the road was just a sea of humanity for most of the day.

On the big descent at speeds of nearly 70km/hr, concentration was at maximum. All the animals and people were at least predictable in their actions, for the most part.

We stopped on the roadside for a quick bite, luckily, the spot was very rural and only the land owner and few people spotted us.

Once over the climb we got Doyogena. This town was absolutely bizarre. We would park the bikes and 60 to 80 people would crowd around. They followed us whilst we were looking for a restaurant. We went into a fenced hotel. Pedro thought the prices were too expensive. Earlier he had been chasing kids away from touching the bikes.

There were no other restaurants. He didn’t like the town and said he was going to go on. I just wanted to eat in peace, so I went back to the hotel and ordered a great omelette.

An American woman came up and joined me, Melody was a member of the US Peace Corps. We had a great chat together. We then went back to her house and had continued discussing life here in Ethiopia. She was on a two year stint. She told me of the Peace Corp malaria treatment for its team.

Even after a year here she still finds it trying at times. She gets into Addis to have fun with her colleagues, there are 60 in her group. She gets $150 a month to live off.

We said goodbye and I headed off up the hill.

Coming down the other side my peak hat blew off at high speed. A taxi van saw it happen.

When I caught up to Pedro, the guys in the van pointed at their heads and Pedro got the impression I had come off the bike, he tried to ring me, we laughed.

Once over this small climb it was all downhill.

I descended quite fast, dodging all the foot traffic on the road. People were everywhere, all the way to Areka.

Many were really cheeky, raising sticks and pretending to throw stones and always asking where you go and give me money.

It really was quite disturbing at times.

Though rising above all these negative gestures were some great gestures, once again from the woman and men.

There were some very attractive middle aged woman walking along the road. Mostly in groups.

The thought occurred to me, that had these woman led lives like our own and had not had half a dozen kids. They would be even more attractive. Their figures would be the envy of most western woman. All had fine ankles, nice legs of what could be seen. Their facial expressions were those of strong character, smeered in  subtle but raw beauty. All this after carting heavy loads along the road almost every day since childhood, one could safely assume.

These women had a great sense of humour and always returned greetings with a smile and sincerity.

Once in Areka we started looking for hotels the first one was even too dirty for us Pedro said on his return to the bikes. By this time I had at least a 100 people around me. Pedro could hardly see me.

We moved on up the road and found the Selam hotel. It was great, we had rooms that gave us some peace from the mayhem on the road.

Water was in short supply so a flannel swab wash was my shower again.

We had a great barley soup full of garlic and Samosas for dinner.

We are now in malaria country. Pedro put his tent up in the room. There was a hook above my bed so I hung my mosquito net.

Days like today, it is very important that all the hassles with people on the road are not allowed to distract you from riding safely. Or make the day unenjoyable.

 I keep the humour in it. The kids love me calling them “nañitos mosquitos” and always repeat what s said with lots of laughs.They hang out in large groups. Sometimes there will be a group of eight or more 5 years olds just mucking about on the roadside. We come along, and oh what a thing to play with, for them!!

On a few occasions, I yelled at kids for hanging on to the back of the bike.

When climbing hills we are most vulnerable as they can follow right alongside. Having said this, at no time since being here have I felt unsafe in this country.

The kids are just so bored and poverty stricken to the point where it is easy to get emotional.

At one time whilst stopped, a 60 year old man reasonably dressed stopped and put his hand infront of my face and said “give me money”.

I looked at him, said nothing and turned my back towards in his face. This is a situation that sees me treat this kind of behaviour just as I would if it was someone on the street back in my hometown in Australia.

This was infront of dozens of kids. Hence their behaviour.

This is so, so terribly sad but this is many, many people’s predicament here in Ethiopia. This poverty is like a blanket on the rural areas.

At Wakos house, I read a book where, back in the late 80’s, even in a good year for the crops, some 3 million people still needed food assistance. In a year where crops failed due to lack of rain, some 20 million needed assistance under the so called “Safety Net Program”.

There is an early rain that many farmers don’t even bother to plant a crop because it is now so unreliable.

The theme of the book was how our behaviour in developed countries is causing climate change in these poor countries. This was way back in the 80’s.

What is it like now? Properties are getting smaller and smaller. The land never gets rested. Every year it has to produce crops.

Another concept to cross my mind was that this country, like Nicaragua has so many volunteering opportunities to work with kids in schools.

Though, tragically, unlike Nicaragua that has Spanish as their language, and is a place where volunteers firstly come to volunteer and help and secondly hope to leave having a command of a widely spoken lovely language.

Here in Ethiopia, Amharic is only spoken, among other dialects. All these languages are unique to Ethiopia.

It would be hard to entice volunteers to come here to try and learn to teach in a language that is spoken in only one country. Even the alphabetic characters are so different.

 

8/4/2015 Areka to Birbir

D105, T6, Av17.16, Max61 , 39,592, 4,591

A very trying day with harassment most of the journey

Very warm, high UV

Last night was the first night that my mosquito net was used. Thanks to Elias, Wakos friend, we now have two great BASF double bed size box nets.

I had just enough water to make my coffee and porridge.

Leaving town, there were people all over the streets as usual.

The moment we got on the road, the harassment began. The word Farangi is a real favourite here and almost everyone asked for money. On the climb out of town, kids were following me and throwing sugar cane, and stones.

What annoys me most is when they hang onto the bike.

Luckily an elderly guy shoed them off my tail.

People were just so unrespectful, especially the teenagers.

One girl was being smart and an older guy said from across the road that Ethiopia is a very poor country. I said that is no reason to be rude to people.

I yelled out why don’t you say welcome to Ethiopia, you might be surprised at what reactions you get.  

This “give me money”, “birr birr” all the time saw us put our earphones in and play music as loud as we could.

The kids with nothing to do. The “niñitos mosquitos are the worst. One tried to put a stick in Pedros wheel. He stopped and went into a small village to tell these people of the danger involved in doing this. People on motorbikes would occasionally ride straight at us. Others would reach out and try to push us.

Though amongst all this some positive grettings were received, how nice this is.

We had a great lunch in Sodo, the soup from last night left me feeling weak. I had two serves of pasta and meat with vegetables, it was great.

The sun now is really burning, the UV is so intense in the cloudy humid days. I had a makeshift scarf made in a dress shop. This will go under my peak hat and allow the neck warmer to protect my neck I can also pull it up to keep dust from my mouth and nose.

We soon got to see the brown waters of Lake Abaya. Along here, the sun was really burning my arms for the first time. I bought these arm tubes in Granada to protect them from the sun. Today they were used.

The harassment continued here till we got away from civilisation.

Arriving in one village, there were dozens of yellow 20l drums lined up at a water station, everyone was waiting for the water to be turned on.

The following comment is from my instagram (browsinabout)

“Water! Its collection and delivery to ones house involves a lot of time, donkeys and carts, strong ladies, children and young adults, tuk tuks, homemade trolleys with old bearings as wheels and the essential yellow plastic 20l containers.

Electricity is unreliable, to say the least.

For the last 4 nights my shower arrangement has been 4l of water in my Ortlieb folding bowl ansd a face flannel in our hotels. “hotel camping”

Like most Ethiopians I complain not.

Clean reliable water from a tap and electricity at the flick of a switch, will always remind me of these yellow containers and walking around obstacle ridden streets in blacked out villages, using my phone torch, looking for a place to eat.

The rainy season is beginning and the sky has hints of rain. We finally got to Bir bir about 1730. I was ahead of Pedro and waited outside a hotel. When he arrived it was inspected. It was ok. Whilst I was unpacked Pedro wandered off and came back and said he had found another place, I had unpacked and was worn out. I said you go there. This place though a little rough suited me for one night. They had water, that was the main thing. However, it was a bucket swab down again.

I had a nice St George beer on tap in the blacked out bar, saw pedro in town, he was hungry and had eaten. Staggering through town in the dark with my torch. A restaurant was found.

Here a great Injera was enjoyed with a guy who worked for the government and was involved with an irrigation project.

He said this whole area was bad for malaria especially now the wet season is starting.

He too slept under a mosquito net.

The power was off for the rest of the night. It is so good to have my s4 phone that batteries can just be put into as one goes flat.

I read where the new S6 has a battery that can’t be removed. No good to me. It is all part of the marketing that suits them. Here and in Sth America you can buy good batteries for the S4 for seven or eight dollars.

My 3 spare batteries can keep me going nearly a week or more.

It was so nice to be under the mosquito net.

The mosquitoes that are silent are the ones that cause malaria. I am also using a Petroleum based repellent locally made in Ethiopia Called “Buzz Off”. It is cheap, moisturises the skin and is WHO certified for 8 hrs protection, good stuff.

 

 

9/4/2015  Birra to Abra Minch

D51, T3/5, Av15.79, Max48 , 39,644, 4,642

A fun day, people were great

Very warm and humid, high UV

I was up early as usual and had 2 great cups of coffee and my porridge with milk powder, honey, raisins and roast barley and peanuts.

I headed round to Pedros place a hundred metres away. He was still having breakfast. I said I will see him up the road.

We have a good arrangement, where we respect each others space and always wait for each other on the road. I enjoy stopping to take photos and talk to people who are doing anything interesting or unknown.

The moment I got on the road the first noticeable thing was how friendly the people were. It was a pleasure riding along greeting people. We are now in the African Rift Valley.

The area is surrounded on both sides by ranges. Those to our west are much closer.

There are banana plants, mangoes and avocado trees growing on both sides of the road. Woman were selling mangoes at various locations.

This Sunday, the orthodox Christians celebrate Easter. The fasting ends. Most domestic animals are now getting nervous. Especially the goats.

Meat will be in both OC and Muslim restaurants from Sunday. It will be interesting to see if they use different recipes. Though, meat with Injera is guaranteed.

There were quite a few table tennis tables set up on the roadside with teenagers playing. Most people were on the road with purpose.

The scenery was a delight, lush green and very tropical.

Most people I stopped to talk to were really happy and vibrant. I joked about the meat and goats at Easter, they were all looking forward to the feast.

We soon got very close to the shores of Lake Abaya. Here Pedro was pulled up. We took time out to comment on just how much of a pleasure the riding was today.

We both enjoyed mangoes. A truck driver had kindly given me a mango.

It had been enjoyable stoping all along the way to talk and take photos.

Abra Minch was now only 15-20km away on the far shore of the lake. The waters are a khaki brown, it is a large body of  water and is one of the rift valley lakes here in Ethiopia.

Abra Minch is another tourist town, as usual our arrival here and settling into a restaurant saw the usual touts turn up with all offers of help with accommodation or visiting attractions.

They all have friends in Australia!. Generally our first comment is “we are adults and we don’t need your help.

These people really annoy us, they follow us everywhere and always try to walk into a hotel with us so they can pick up a commission on an inflated price. One hotel guest said the rooms were 60 birr, on enquiry after inspection the manager said 100.

Pedro was on to him. He said we know the price, so you have two prices, one for Ethiopians and one for Farangis, he said yes.

Pedro told him this is discrimination. I weighed in strongly and said in Australia we have one price for Australians and the same price for Ethiopians.

This is very typical here. We know the prices of most things we buy. I asked the price of honey in one supermarket, thay are all small private shops here, often without marked prices. The lady said 65birr, I know it is 40. In this situation I just walk.

Short term travelling and paying inflated prices is ok, but getting ripped off in the long term is not sustainable.

Finally, we found an honest guy in the Chamo Pension 200m from the roundabout. It is comfortable and clean. The first night we had a room each.

To accommodate Pedros budget we shared my room for the second night. One hundred and thirteen combined years sleeping on a big double bed under a mossy net, life is very different living from 5 bags on a bicycle. Love it!!

It was a good compromise.

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Great cook and even better frisbee thrower!!
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Wako treated us like family, our relaxation levels were at a level akin to such hospitality. Thanks Wako, Teshale and Terfesa, for everything.
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Just goin' home
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Like Sudan, this occupation is unashamedly done by the men.
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Not long till she is on someones plate. A side of meat eating very far detached from our polystyrene packed red stuff.
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After a week off, 28km climbing, in the rolling hills at 3000m. A tad physically worn!! There was another climb amongst roadworks to reach the saddle and down to the pension 15km below at Lera.
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OC village cemetery
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"Ninitos moquitos", but good crew, near Lake Abaya.
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In the rift valley, Mt Gogora in the background.
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Sunday the eleventh, the orthodox Christians celebrate Easter and end their fasting. All domestic animals, especially goats are beginning to sweat and look very worried.
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best friends.
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Ethiopian coffee............mmm
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Ninitos but not mosquitoes, they were tending their small herd of goats.
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