browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
23/4/2013 Olmos to Abra de Porculla (2145m)

D56, T10, Av9.24, Max50, 13258, 3255

Fine, hot at lewer altitudes fresh at the summit Porculla


Leaving Los Portales hostal, Olmos early and enjoying breakfast on the street, a sit down affair. I was well aware that diarrhoea had been impacting on me since a huge meat fix the first night in town. I figured the cooking oil had done me in.

It wasn’t bad, but just took the edge off my well being.

An extra roll of toilet paper was bought before leaving town .

It was flat and dry on departing the urban area. All the while the Andes were hazily present in the background to the east. The turn off came, and immediately after that a very slow ascent began.

Riding with a young guy going to studies filled in the first hour.

The scenery was still rocky and very inhospitable, though not to many who call this home.

A homeless guy was wandering along the road, a guy  at a truck wash informed me of his predicament, the poor wretched guy. It was a bugger of a place to be wandering with really nowhere to go.

As the ascent began  to take me deeper into the range, the vegetation became more lush. The gradients were great, the road just slowly climbed, winding above itself many times. Luckily the temperature now was cooling off, it was very pleasant.

Water was bought and drank at every place that sold it. I was also carrying 4 litres over and above my two drink bottles.

Groups of school children were following me on the road at times, they could keep up with my 6-7km/hr ascent. Another young guy on his new birthday present rode with me for some time.

The kids coming down the hill from school on bikes were travelling at wreckless speeds, one bike had 3 on it doing at least 40km/hr, ironically an ambulance was following it.

The scenery was getting better with every meter climbed, as was the temperature.

Every corner had epitaphs to those who had lost their lives on the road. Some were fairly elaborate, some sadly were brand new.

Come 1630 the time came to look for a campsite. The terrain offered nothing. Finding one marginal spot on a corner, upon heading into the shrubs etc. I could still be seen from the road.

This wouldn’t do, I had to keep going.

The stopping had made me very cold. Changing into an icebreaker top and my jumper helped.

Cruising on but still sweating, the climbing still continued, then around a bend it settled a bit. A pass could be seen a kilometre ahead.

It was indeed the summit, thankfully.

A small pueblo was at its peak.

The locals were not too keen on having me on their properties, though one guy said it was ok but the site was not really suitable. Thanking him he told me some people down the road might be fine with me on their property.

The difference in the landscape was amazing it went from lush to bone dry and windy.

A kilometre on a mud brick group of houses was stopped at. Carlos, the father said it was all good.

It was nearly dark, but light was cast by a full moon. Once my tent was up Carlos came over for a coffee as we had arranged, “traes una taza” were my last words,

We enjoyed a coffee and he and his family finished off eating the meal I cooked and couldn’t eat it all.

They had 2 hectares, five cows, no electricity and a small garden where they  grew corn and garlic among other things.

They were a mountain farming family and were very poor in a material sense.

Typical of many people up here, the children were very shy, I don’t think his son went to school but the other children did.

As the night wore on the wind started increasing.out of the NE. It had been a huge day, The shits had not bothered me during the day though their presence was noticed with a light stomach.

Of the 56k travelled, 50 had been uphill. The views, the children and others along the way ,truck drivers and just sheer bewilderment at my surroundings more than lessened any perceived burden during this ride.

There was a procession of trucks all day. Those heading down were carrying rice and those going up were carrying fertilizer. There is huge amounts of rice grown the river valley on the other side of the Andes and “en la selva” (the forest)  in Amazona. All the truck drivers waved and tooted, many were travelling up and down for that matter not much faster than me, they had heavy loads.

I was in bed at 2000hrs, totally wasted, though feeling cosy and warm, sleeping in long johns and a long sleeved icebreaker. Still the wind continued to blow.

24/4/2013

Porculla to Pucara

D71, T4.5, 6, Av 16.39, max52, tot13329, 3326

Cool to begin with then very hot, dusty and dry


The wind howled all night, my tent was being blown nearly flat at times. There had been nowhere better to camp.

It was a mixed night when it came to sleep, the full moon cast a surreal  light on the scene. Getting up early to even more wind. My tent was indeed soon flattened and damaged in the process, the tarp had put to much weight on the poles and one split where the other joins to it. It could be repaired.

Packing up, Carlos son came and watched me carrying a chook that was destined for the pot that evening. Not having breakfast. I thanked Carlos.

Donning my warm gear, the descent down the eastern side of the range began, speeds were held back due to the strong wind.

The terrain was dry and arid to say the least. Goats were the only animals seen.

Though in the river valley people were living and had small plots of maize where ever they could gravity feed water. These grey pipes were everywhere feeding water from a higher source to a house or crop.

It was a pleasurable ride to the River Chamaya at the foot of the range, some 15km down.

Breakfast was enjoyed here, two trucks pulled up, each one had a diver and two police on board.

We started chatting. One of the cops quietly told me they were transporting explosives for the irrigation project further down the valley.

Leaving here the wind was funnelling up the valley. This road all the way from east of Olmos had been carved from solid rock. It was quite awe inspiring the work that must having gone into it.

At times I felt so insignificant in this huge landscape. There were moments when I reminded myself just where I was. It was these times that euphoria was experienced riding through this famous mountain range where ancient peoples long before had carved basic access ways.

Anyway 8km out of Tamba I realized I had left my gloves at the restaurant or they had fallen off the bike. A small town was approached and a wasp was seen on the side of the road, I wanted to go back to see if they could be found. He asked for a ridiculous amount.

He immediately got a lecture on the fact that it was a gringo price and that how could local people pay this. We soon came to an amicable arrangement.

It was a slightly anxious 40 minutes, made worse by the fact he got a flat tyre on the way.

I was separated from my life line and would likely not find the gloves. Both were true comments. They were not found, I must have put them on the back of the bike when I changed. They feel off. Oh well, my loss, someone will put them to good use, I’m sure.

 My hands are getting quite leathery from the constant exposure to the sun. They are quite important protection.

Getting back, all was intact and off I rode, unless gloves can be found in Chachapoyos or Cajamarca, Trujillo or Lima will be the next place to find them.

I might just have to wear my cold weather version.

A snack was had roadside in the shade of a not to dangerous cutting. I was immediately surrounded by small native bees, much like the Oz ones, though smaller, they were in my hair, ears and the hairs on my arms, salt may have been their attraction. At least, unlike flies they were not interested in my tuna or bead and oranges.

Riding on forever following the river, a magic downhill ride all day was dampened by the constant head wind, pedalling down slopes was necessary.

The scenery now though still arid in the ranges was a sea of green in the river flats below and alongside the road. The contrast was bizarre.

Soon a huge new dam wall was spotted far below. This is part of a Brazillian Peru project to get water back to Olmos for horticulture.

The have dug a tunnels twenty five km long straight through the Andes back to Olmos, this will carry water from the dam.

The guard at the entrance, a great guy, welcomed me to his country, gave me a pear and water along with many details of the project. In two years time it will be fully commissioned.

I am now always carrying enough water and food to camp if the need arises. Though if it is convenient and practical to push on to a town at days end, this will be done, unless a perfect campsite is found.

Arriving in Pucara at 1600 hrs the Los Mangos was booked.

Anywhere I can I find a motel without steps, so the bike can just be wheeled into the room, the Los Mangos was no exception, it makes life so easy.

It was a relaxed town cradled in the eastern side of the Andes, and very warm.

A good wander about and dinner was enjoyed. Woman were out selling a corn like plant for cuy (guinea pigs are a favourite food here) food, people were lining up.

The bloody diarrhea was still with me!! The motel was comfortable.

 

25/4/2013 Pucara to Bagua Grande

D114, T9, Av 16.92, Max 56, Tot 13443, 3440

Hot, ( late twenties) dry, dusty with some wind

A coffee was brewed in my room on the Primus.

Breakfast was enjoyed early at the markets, that of papaya juice and 15 huevitos de Cordiniz, these are small boiled eggs from this bird, they are unreal, especially with the chilli sauce. They are common street food in each country visited in SA so far. Bread was bought for the road.

Five eggs for a Sole, good value. A sol equals about 40c $US

Moving further down the river, enjoying just the best riding conditions. Todays ride could be described as petty much 114km gently downhill, sure there were a few little climbs but they were all short lived.

Drinks were again bought at every tienda I passed.

Having to have my first roadside crap was endured among some thorny acacia shrubs. “It” won’t go away.

So to were coco drinks, at the bridge crossing of the river Utcubamba, there was a stall selling them chilled from a chest freezer, two were enjoyed here. They were so refreshing.

 I knew what effects of dehydration were and did not want to experience them again.

The department of Amazona had been entered, this is where  the bulk of the rice comes from.

The country was now more open, water melon was enjoyed at one stall.

Bagua Grande was now feasible for the night. The wind had again picked up. Luckily its direction was just astern of beam, it actually aided me a liitle bit.

The roads were straight and you could see their terminus” in the far distance.

Funnily enough, these vistas, like huge uphill climbs are no longer daunting, their challenges are welcomed.

Cajas National Park  in Ecuador and the long climbs in Colombia, especially north of Medellín and northern Ecuador have conditioned my mind to be in the right place at the onslaught of these challenges. Anything less would render one to a laborious task.

There was a fair distance now of nothing but dry hills and the huge river valley of the Utcubamba. The river is huge as were its gravel beds.

So much rain must fall here during the wet season.

Closer to Bagua Grande rice paddies were becoming more common as the land spread out.

Nearing town both sides of the road were paddies, people were everywhere, planting, digging, resting, driving tractors, it was like Asia except the ranges framing the scene were arid.

A basic but ground level hotel was found, the Monte Christo. Chicharon was savoured on the streets and a huge fix of ice cream was enjoyed at an up market American style set up also doing burgers.

It had been another big day, over indulging in these two delights produced no qualms of guilt as they salubriously slid down my throat. Tomorrow they would be sweat on the pavement.

There was a wasp nest in this town like no other. Intersections on red were reminiscent of flies on a dead sheep.

Bed was another early affair. I am really feeling the effort required on this passage. The diarrhoea does not help. Chachapoyas will be a welcome sight believe me. I will take Imodium there if it still persists.

26/4/2013 Bagua Grande to Pedro Ruiz

D68, T5.13 actual 8, av12.97, Max 56, Tot13510, 3508

Fine hot and became humid closer to Pedro Ruiz


Up early, wanting to get out of this room, I would describe it as “shelter” though I am sure there were better rooms in the establishment. The shower bathroom and toilet were all one under a concrete staircase. The shower left water puddling around the loo.

It is next to the Monti Christo hostal if you want ground level accomadation.

Four visits were made to the loo on getting up and during packing, on each occasion, wet feet were the order. Oh well at 15 soles, I guess complaining falls on deaf ears.

Being ground level was the most important thing.

Breakfast was had across the road at a stall with the locals, a pork skin soup was enjoyed, these soups are meals in themselves.

Leaving town it was a maze of rice fields outside the urban limits.

The Rio Utcubamba was being followed, though upstream, this meant climbing was ahead.

The heat didn’t take long to build, further into the ride the eastern range in the Andes was always present in the distance, soon the road narrowed as it followed the river gorge.

The scenery became so impressive, on my left was the huge Utcubamba, running powerfully with a fawn coloured flow. The opposite banks in most cases were cliffs and steep faces, the former covered in  bromeliads, the latter forest. This all rose to a huge range. Crooking my neck was difficult to see the top of it. The landscape on this side of the river was on a grand scale.

Parrots could be heard enjoying this largely inaccessible area.

To my right most of the time was sheer rock cuttings produced during the road building process. Loose stone signs were everywhere as were gabion protection barriers.

The heat and humidity increased as progress was made further up the river.

Bananas and papaya were enjoyed at one stall.

Today was one of those days where I felt flat. The last 3 days had been big and my health was just a tad shabby. I was looking for any excuse to stop. Photos, walking on swing bridges, stopping at waterfalls, making coffee by the river, stopping where ever to get a drink, they were all excuses to just have an easy day.

I knew Pedro Ruiz was a short 65km away.

The road was narrow and you had to concentrate on keeping a straight line, this and the heat coupled with humidity started taking its toll. A tail wind pushed me some way but generally with no air movement due to me moving with it made for extremely hot conditions.

Music played a big role in getting me 3km from town. Some guys offered to give me a lift, they got out of their car and had a yarn, parking in the traffic lane though on a straight section.

They wanted to hear the music that was playing on my ipod. They all had a listen and all enthusiastically approved. Leftfield, an enthusiastic dance band were dragging me through this last section.

The sweat was falling to the ground like a light shower from my face, wrists and legs, it was being replaced with hot water from my bottles, it is all I had.

Drinking hot water is now quite normal, on the Mississippi year before last it was the same case.

The Utcubamba was now a raging torrent in narrow gorges, soon, town was approached.

Arriving in Pedro Ruiz and finding a restaurant, looking for coke in a glass, the only size they had were one litre bottles.

I figured buy it and drink what I can, whilst chatting to the woman and just gathering myself the whole litre was consumed. I feel I may have a problem here!!!!

This riding in these, hot humid conditions and climbing put you in a different space, one that requires huge effort and concentration on personal safety, wobbling at slow speed can be deadly especially on narrow roads. It is so important not to commence riding if a car is coming, generally the first few metres when in this state are all over the road.

The fact you are riding in new surroundings every metre, with surprises round every corner is a big factor in aiding forward progress. To be doing this in these conditions and my state over the same ground for me would be so difficult.

A ground level hospedaje, the Amazonense was found. It is such a nice place, hot water and good light. Highly recommended. Other cyclists have stayed here all with the same opinion.
None of the towns visited so far have had anyone I noticed wearing traditional dress, big brand fakes are very popular.

Beef soup was enjoyed for dinner. The net was checked, it is so slow out here, then it just crashed.




Picture
These guys had the right idea
Picture
Half way into the 50km climb, the scenery was something else
Picture
First night at the top of the range, the tree gives you an idea of conditions up here.
Picture
Over the top and how the scenery changed, so arid and barren.
Picture
Further down the valley east, the valleys were lush.
Picture
Dengue is a bad problem here especially in Jaén.
Picture
The rear sign was welcome, not the little yellow one.
Picture
The girl on the left is the best kebab cook on the highway, we had some laughes together while I ate chicken and drank chicha morada, good for the kidneys.
Picture
Typical river scene.
Picture
They didn't figure the river may change course.
Picture
Quite a gathering
Picture
Every corner had a bunch of these.
Picture
A bit of early morning business in the Andes, Northern Peru.
Picture
Where they could gravity feed water things grew.
Picture
New dam, a pipe line 25km through the range to Olmos will provide water for horticulture.
Picture
Food for cuy, guinea pigs which are widely eaten here, Pucara.
Picture
The contrasts were unreal, near Bagua Grande.
Picture
Breakfast Bagua Grande
Picture
Bromeliads hung on all cliff faces
Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.