26/6/2014 Rondonópolis to 10km past Poxoreó
D101, T8, Av16.35, max71, 29,229 3608
30+ degrees clear, no wind
Saying goodbye to Carlos, the Peruano, whom I dined with each night. I had already been to the supermarket to buy bread and oranges. Also a bottle of water.
I like to change these bottles now and again as the PET may breakdown.
Leaving town a couple of hose clamps were also bought.
My gear is actually getting heavier. Oh well, I can ditch some if it gets to tough.
I was taking MT 130 to Primavera, another route used by the soya express, though not as heavy as 163.
The road pretty much had no shoulder and there were lots of roadworks going on, which was in some cases handy as I would use the free side of the road.
These Brasilero truck drivers so far have been just the best, we are sharing the road.
If there was an oncoming truck and one was coming at me from behind, he would toot to let me know there was not enough room to safely pass. I would wave and just cruise onto the grass or gravel edge.
It all worked well. So in this respect I take my hat off to these guys. There were no intimidation antics going on.
About 1500, I pulled into a large truck stop place and had a yarn with a driver of a huge B double.
We spoke about the road ahead, so, in this light, information is slowly being gathered on the most sensible route to take me north to the Amazon river.
This is approximately 2000km to my north.
Here in BR where they have built roads people and their urges to change what lies alongside them has followed. In this light, there has been little natural vegetation , just farms and crops.
Another traveller said to me in Bolivia, if you want to see rainforest, don’t come to BR, a fair comment to date.
This road taking me north will be like this. In some respects, it can be paralleled to crossing an often featureless ocean to an island destination.
This for me will not make it any less enjoyable, there are always things of interest if one looks hard enough and throughs a little imagination into the scene.
Here at the truck stop a litre of coke disappeared like water over a precipice.
It was at the top of a large range, so a great free wheel off its peak was enjoyed for 3 or 4 km.
At 1630 a pool bar was seen on the roadside here I stopped for another large coke in glass of course.
The days are so hot and dry now hydration and its maintenance are super important.
I spent time here chatting with the locals.
For the most part, Spanish is used with the odd word of Portuguese thrown in, we all seem to get the gist of things. The kids here are learning English at school.
On leaving one of the guys I was talking to while he was having a beer with his lady. Said something about pagar on the way as he left.
I went to pay, the woman said the man had paid for my coke.
How generous, things like this are so special as each of these countries is visited.
My first reaction was no no, I left money for the woman to give to him to buy a beer next time he came by.
I stocked up on the nights water here.
This is, two drink bottles, a plastic bottle and the 6 litre bladder.
On dark, a side track parallel with the road was spotted. There were no fresh tracks, this was entered with a gap in traffic.
The tiniest of spots, free from direct vision of traffic was found in long grass right below the highway.
Unfortunately, I was not alone, an ants nest had been disturbed. I sat there on my stool and observed these guys for sometime, really not wanting to move. I let them crawl over my feet. They were happy just exploring and when disturbed did not become aggressive. This confirmed that the both of us could comfortably co exist here tonight.
Just bread was had for dinner. The last night in Rondo I had devoured a huge all you could eat buffet with Carlos.
It is amazing this lasted all day without eating.
So just bread and Nutella, a cup of coffee and a few oranges were had for dinner.
Over time, I have got to know my body really well at the extreme end of its needs and wants. My idea is not to get close to this extreme limit too often. After all everything has to sustainable.
Every morning, has to be greeted in a charged state, if not, a rest in a town has to be made.
From a mental point of view, positive encouragement is occasionally required.
Climbing into the tent very quickly, it was seen that no ants were to be sharing the night inside with me.
Before getting in, I observed them just going about their nightly activities in the deep layer of grass I had flattened to the ground.
I feel they knew I was not here to harm them. Though, their routine and highways had been serious disturbed.
27/6/2014 Poxereó to river camp 30km past Primavera
D76, T7, Av16.73, Max55, 29,305 3684
Fine hot
My camp was open to the east, as soon as the sun came up the temperature rose with it. Probably 25 degrees by 0800.
Brekky was enjoyed. The tent was hung to dry the dew on a fence line.
Back on the road, the trucks were still heading north empty and back full.
It was uneventful ride into Primavera, an agricultural servicing town .On the way in was an enormous grain silo complex. The sign Cargill was painted on the fence.
This is an American corporate giant, operating here in BR, handling grains.
This is one of the sources of the loads all those trucks were moving soya back to Sao Paulo to be shipped to China via the Panama Canal.
The carbon footprint from planting to a processing plant in China must be huge.
Just thinking along these lines. Almost everything that moves that is not living on our planet uses crude oil in various states of refinement.
It is really quite amazing, I am in this little spot on earth watching all these trucks and the same thing is going on all over the world. Billons and billons of litres used every day.
We are a very fortunate species to be endowed with such a resource.
In Primavera, I wanted to know more about the road ahead, there were two options here, one keep going north or swing east to Barra do Garcus.
It is important to talk to people who are mobile.
A large Massey Ferguson outlet was spotted. Pulling in here, I asked if they had a minute or two.
We sat down and the guy pulled up maps on his laptop.
The short of it is that some of these un paved roads have sections of deep sand.
I spent an hour here chatting. The guy, about 30 was really interesting. He said there are kind of three parts to BR, out here, the coast and the south where large immigrant populations live. His opinion was the south was the best place to live.
He said company taxes are very high here. He commented on the level of government corruption here.
The price of petrol is largely, like Australia due to government levies and taxes.
Like the Australian government with a federal system here are huge inefficiencies and dead wood on high salaries sitting in offices never seen .
He said John Deere and Massey were the two biggest sellers of ag gear, though John Deere was way infront.
He told me to wait and took off for a couple of minutes and came back and presented me with a peak hat.
Embarrassingly, I had to refuse his gift, I had no need for it and the weight was not worth it.
He said “of course”.
I told him about the family in the US who were fossickers and on my departure presented me with two crystal rocks as a gift. It was classic, he laughed at his own lack of short sightedness when I told him of the weight to carry.
I now had a nice minds eyes picture of the route ahead. It was just a matter of turning the pedals.
From here, I headed into town and had a meal.
My visa here has only 37 odd days to run. I need to get an extension. This can only be done at federal police stations.
A girl on a moto guided me to the local civil station. Here they said there was no feds in Primavera but one was at Barra do Garcus.
This has to be done or else I am going to be caught in the middle of nowhere with an expired visa. It is hoped they will renew it before it expires.
Hopefully, all was understood and there is an office in Barra.
From here I got onto BR070.
Ahh!! A reprieve from the trucks, a few but not so many.
It was bliss.
A little cafe was stopped at some 20km on.
The people made salami here. I asked if it needed refrigerating, no, great, so I bought a stick.
They told me a gas station was twenty km ahead. Here I bathed my body in the icy cold water they all supply.
I topped up my bottles for the night.
In a very relaxed state of mind I was looking for an early day. It was tempting to camp at this big complex.
Refreshed after drinking and cooled off. Again I felt like a few more km, it was 1500.
A little further on at the foot of a downhill run .There was a river, I pulled into inspect its camping potential.
What a lovely spot. A waterfall, shade and privacy.
Here I washed my clothes and had a swim in the clear cool waters.
It was a great campsite, the best for some time.
Cutting the end off the salami I had bought, my taste buds were immediately aroused, it was so delectable. I kept saying to myself “no more”, some third of the stick later, I stopped cutting pieces of it, when my coffee was ready.
The sound of the waterfall was so relaxing. Insects were restricted to little sandflies.
A meal of pasta and tuna was enjoyed with half being left for breakfast.
In bed early and reading, it did not take long for the peaceful noise of the waterfall to send me into another place.
The only problem with water near a camp is often with its noise, people approaching cannot be heard.
My bike was locked to the tent.
Tomorrow BR play Chile I hope BR win, the road may not be to safe if they lose!!
28/6/2014 River camp to cemetery
D73, T7, Av20.33, Max66, 29379, 3756
Mist damp morning, not so hot, SW afternoon winds
A great nights sleep was enjoyed to the calming sound of the waterfall.
Expecting the sun to bath me in the morning. Instead the greeting was by a misty light rain. This really made a difference from all the hot relentless days in the last 15.
The pasta was finished off and my blog bought up to date over a mate.
Finally, camp was broken and vacated by 1000.
As said yesterday BR were playing CH today. I really hoped to watch this game.
Anyway, at about 1150, I chanced upon a cafe bar on the road. Here a coke was enjoyed and a chat with some guys who were having a beer.
Their TV was not working, they told me there was another place down the road.
The owner offered me mate but I told him of my sore throat, he kindly gave me a few lemons to put in my water.
Soon arriving at the little bar on the corner of a brown dirt turn off. Here a meal was enjoyed of the left overs from the buffet.
It was all very rustic, no frills to say the least.
They had a TV going and probably 20 people watching.
They were all indigenous Brasileros, and a few truck drivers.
It was great I pulled up a chair, ate off my lap and settled into what turned out to be a brilliant defensive game of futbol. A shoot out is always a cruel way to get a result.
I have friends in CH, I felt for them when they lost, but it was great to see BR win. It would be fantastic to see them go all the way.
It would be so great for their upcoming Olympics. Everyone would be on a high.
The indigenous people were all speaking a dialect, the children and woman had that classic haircut seen in Nat Geo photos of Brazilian natives.
The men all had pieces of reed through their earlobes.
It was quite a privilege to be here in this little outpost in Mato Grosso, sharing this time with these people. I bought them a couple of bottles of fanta during the game.
I was wrapped to have seen the game. It was uncanny that this place should be out here, miles from anywhere.
Only 15 minutes was missed.
My mind eyes down to my cross bar and stopped upon the now well travelled Eagle feather attached.
It is little occurences like this, that sometimes make me wonder.
Finally getting away with a full load of water at 1500 hours. I was greeted with a lovely Sou wester and had a broad reach on the quiet smooth road for the rest of the day.
Good time was made. It turned out to be almost a normal days ride.
It was such a pleasure in the rolling hills, work hard for 2km and then free wheel for a bit, nice riding.
Nearing dark, the old need arose to find a campsite. There was a good road reserve but not much vegetation.
Then to my right was a cemetery, it was surrounded by a two metre block wall.
Needless to say, a camp had been found.
I stopped and set up camp immediately behind the wall in some long grass just away from the graves.
Just coffee and salami was had for dinner.
Another good day had come to an end.
29/6/2014, Cemetery,Paradeo do Este to church
D119, T8, Av19.49, Max69, 29,498 3876
Slightly overcast still warm
The night was a bit cool as the altitude here is close to 600m.
Time was spent repairing my three legged chair, I had bought heavy needles and thread in NZ just for this.
The pleasure derived from repairing this essential piece of gear far outweighs the pleasures of buying a new one. Having time and plenty of it allows me to derive pleasures from simple things like this.
Time, or the lack of it in most peoples worlds robs them of these simplicities, there is always a Walmart or Big W just a drive away.
Overnight quite a breeze blew though I had protection from the block fence.
On the road riding again was a pleasure, up and down , a good average was set.
Arriving in the small pueblito, some nuts and jubes were bought.
Traffic was light and cars equalled trucks for a change.
At 70km about 1300, I was feeling very hungry. A small truck stop diner came up. Here a full meal was enjoyed. I had descended from the 600m to about 330. A good wash at the tap was also cherished. My water was topped up and I headed off. Again making good time on the enjoyable terrain.
The country now is covered in a dry sclerophyll type forest, most trees are only 10 to 15m tall.
More indigenous people occupied this land.
Animal sightings were few.
It was a gentle overall descent again today
Nearing the end of the day I pulled into to a property where a woman was washing her car, she gladly gave me water. I was now set up for the night.
The camping spots were a bit lean. The road reserve was very narrow.
Another town was chanced upon. Here an old church was seen.
Pulling in I asked the man next door if I could spend the night camping there. It was all good.
I always say I have water and food and will be leaving early.
It seems to keep most people happy. Oh, yes, and tell them it’s only for one night and I will say goodbye in the morning.
The tent was pitched under the eaves of the old buiding, so dew should not be a problem.
Soup was enjoyed for dinner with a coffee and biscuits to start.
The evening was comfortably mild and insect free. Though a good distance was covered, it was easy riding. I am not to worn out which is a good sign.
30/6/2014 Church General Caneiro to Barra do Garcus
D49, T3, Av15.37, Max56, 29,547 3925
Fine and warm, no wind
Though the early evening was mild, by 0300 in the morning it was cold enough to have to put on my long pants and raincoat in my sleeping bag.
It is a tropical model, basically, not much more than a sheet sown into a bag, though one side is thin Dacron and fill.
I have over estimated the nighttime temperatures a bit.
Excess water was heated and a shave endured. Having to visit the Federal Police today I did not want to look to vagrant.
The man next door was not about so a card with thanks was left on his fence.
The ride of 40km into town was easy, rolling hills, pasture and a mix of low trees.
Like all these rural towns this was another mecca for big trucks.
The gas stations are huge, with parking areas around them measured in acres.
A stop was made at a large supermarket to stock up on coffee and a few other staples.
Stopping at one gas station I spent time talking with drivers who gave me more info about Ruta 158. It seems it too could be busy. We will see.
Further towards town another stop was made at a vehicle repair place where the guys and I tried to adjust my seat tensioner, the perspiration has ceased the adjuster nut. It was a two person, seat off the bike, vice grips and spanner job. They were great.
Next stop was to find the Feds.
This done, they told me they were closed till 1300, a drink was had in a nearby bar with indigenous people, there is quite a community here.
Back at the police station. I had keyed into my translator the gist of what was needed, visa wise.
We spoke at length about the distances and the whereabout of other federal police offices.
I could not make the next one with the time still remaining on my present 60 day visa .Even if I could , the last thing I wanted to do was put a time frame on proceedings.
This changes all dynamics when cycling. I like to stop when and where I feel like it.
With the present time 40km a day was needed to Marabá. Thats without rests or bad weather. This pressure was not needed.
Anyway the long and the short of it is that I cannot get it renewed until only 30 days are left. It is now 37 days.
I hope to just keep ring and catch a bus back here to Barra do Garcas in 7 or eight days.
The officer, a good guy said to come and see him and he will issue me with 90 days. This should see me easily up to the Amazon river then some.
Finding a suitable hotel here was a hassle two hours later and lots of questions the hotel 2 Rios was booked. It is great, with a nice big courtyard, sunny room and walking distance to the confluence of the rivers Araguaia and rio Das Garcas.
These towns are not mentioned in Lonely Planet, that is what is so nice about being in these places. People have time to talk and help you. They are not just wanting your money. These small (70,000) towns are what makes countries like BR work.
My experiences in these out of the way places are more than just visual, here interaction with locals is always a pleasure.
Visiting big tourist cities is generally just a visual experience, especially if you are in a group, you generally don’t mix with the locals and only talk amongst yourselves .
This town has a lovely river frontage with bars and restaurants and has a very relaxed feel about it .
I just wish I could speak their damn language.!
A drink in a bar and a meal was enjoyed.
The night was a battle with mosquitos, the fan in the room was the only thing that stopped them from biting me to bits.
I am sitting here in the restaurant at the hotel after having a great fresh fruit complimentary breakfast, The accommodation is 40R for a night .
With some time I thought I might just list the 12 things that I could not possibly do without, some of these are personal, the list does not include obvious things like my bike or tent! Some are not tangible.
1. My three legged camp stool
2. Both Opinel Knives
3. MSR Whisperlite International
4. 2 inch tyres
5. Pillow slip
6. Music
7. Camera
8. A vivid imagination
9. Having dreams that are for the most part becoming reality.
10. My handle bar towel.
11. Writing my blog, these detailed chronicles will be an interesting read for me in old age. (computer)
12. Time, and lots of it.
Life is pretty good for me at the moment. Though, I am totally aware that everything could radically change should an accident or poor health eventuate. Oh, such is life!
MATO GROSSO, some facts
Capital: Cuiabá
Population: 520,000
State Pop:2,500,000
Area:906,806.9 km² (350,027 mi²)
Economy:Agribusiness, Leads Brazil in cattle production - 27 million head
The major producer of soybeans in Brazil.
Ranked 9th in the world in cotton production
Produces 51% of Brazil's and 3.9% of World's cotton
Home to large, vast cattle ranches. A tropical Texas, with room to grow.
30 years ago most of the State was in Mato Grosso (thick forest) or Cerrado (savannah brush). There were no highways, just dirt roads hundreds of kilometers long cutting through the dense tropical forest.
Mato Grosso has 230,000 planted hectares of eucalyptus and 65,000 of teak. (2014 Imea)
The possible road ahead, Ruta 158
D101, T8, Av16.35, max71, 29,229 3608
30+ degrees clear, no wind
Saying goodbye to Carlos, the Peruano, whom I dined with each night. I had already been to the supermarket to buy bread and oranges. Also a bottle of water.
I like to change these bottles now and again as the PET may breakdown.
Leaving town a couple of hose clamps were also bought.
My gear is actually getting heavier. Oh well, I can ditch some if it gets to tough.
I was taking MT 130 to Primavera, another route used by the soya express, though not as heavy as 163.
The road pretty much had no shoulder and there were lots of roadworks going on, which was in some cases handy as I would use the free side of the road.
These Brasilero truck drivers so far have been just the best, we are sharing the road.
If there was an oncoming truck and one was coming at me from behind, he would toot to let me know there was not enough room to safely pass. I would wave and just cruise onto the grass or gravel edge.
It all worked well. So in this respect I take my hat off to these guys. There were no intimidation antics going on.
About 1500, I pulled into a large truck stop place and had a yarn with a driver of a huge B double.
We spoke about the road ahead, so, in this light, information is slowly being gathered on the most sensible route to take me north to the Amazon river.
This is approximately 2000km to my north.
Here in BR where they have built roads people and their urges to change what lies alongside them has followed. In this light, there has been little natural vegetation , just farms and crops.
Another traveller said to me in Bolivia, if you want to see rainforest, don’t come to BR, a fair comment to date.
This road taking me north will be like this. In some respects, it can be paralleled to crossing an often featureless ocean to an island destination.
This for me will not make it any less enjoyable, there are always things of interest if one looks hard enough and throughs a little imagination into the scene.
Here at the truck stop a litre of coke disappeared like water over a precipice.
It was at the top of a large range, so a great free wheel off its peak was enjoyed for 3 or 4 km.
At 1630 a pool bar was seen on the roadside here I stopped for another large coke in glass of course.
The days are so hot and dry now hydration and its maintenance are super important.
I spent time here chatting with the locals.
For the most part, Spanish is used with the odd word of Portuguese thrown in, we all seem to get the gist of things. The kids here are learning English at school.
On leaving one of the guys I was talking to while he was having a beer with his lady. Said something about pagar on the way as he left.
I went to pay, the woman said the man had paid for my coke.
How generous, things like this are so special as each of these countries is visited.
My first reaction was no no, I left money for the woman to give to him to buy a beer next time he came by.
I stocked up on the nights water here.
This is, two drink bottles, a plastic bottle and the 6 litre bladder.
On dark, a side track parallel with the road was spotted. There were no fresh tracks, this was entered with a gap in traffic.
The tiniest of spots, free from direct vision of traffic was found in long grass right below the highway.
Unfortunately, I was not alone, an ants nest had been disturbed. I sat there on my stool and observed these guys for sometime, really not wanting to move. I let them crawl over my feet. They were happy just exploring and when disturbed did not become aggressive. This confirmed that the both of us could comfortably co exist here tonight.
Just bread was had for dinner. The last night in Rondo I had devoured a huge all you could eat buffet with Carlos.
It is amazing this lasted all day without eating.
So just bread and Nutella, a cup of coffee and a few oranges were had for dinner.
Over time, I have got to know my body really well at the extreme end of its needs and wants. My idea is not to get close to this extreme limit too often. After all everything has to sustainable.
Every morning, has to be greeted in a charged state, if not, a rest in a town has to be made.
From a mental point of view, positive encouragement is occasionally required.
Climbing into the tent very quickly, it was seen that no ants were to be sharing the night inside with me.
Before getting in, I observed them just going about their nightly activities in the deep layer of grass I had flattened to the ground.
I feel they knew I was not here to harm them. Though, their routine and highways had been serious disturbed.
27/6/2014 Poxereó to river camp 30km past Primavera
D76, T7, Av16.73, Max55, 29,305 3684
Fine hot
My camp was open to the east, as soon as the sun came up the temperature rose with it. Probably 25 degrees by 0800.
Brekky was enjoyed. The tent was hung to dry the dew on a fence line.
Back on the road, the trucks were still heading north empty and back full.
It was uneventful ride into Primavera, an agricultural servicing town .On the way in was an enormous grain silo complex. The sign Cargill was painted on the fence.
This is an American corporate giant, operating here in BR, handling grains.
This is one of the sources of the loads all those trucks were moving soya back to Sao Paulo to be shipped to China via the Panama Canal.
The carbon footprint from planting to a processing plant in China must be huge.
Just thinking along these lines. Almost everything that moves that is not living on our planet uses crude oil in various states of refinement.
It is really quite amazing, I am in this little spot on earth watching all these trucks and the same thing is going on all over the world. Billons and billons of litres used every day.
We are a very fortunate species to be endowed with such a resource.
In Primavera, I wanted to know more about the road ahead, there were two options here, one keep going north or swing east to Barra do Garcus.
It is important to talk to people who are mobile.
A large Massey Ferguson outlet was spotted. Pulling in here, I asked if they had a minute or two.
We sat down and the guy pulled up maps on his laptop.
The short of it is that some of these un paved roads have sections of deep sand.
I spent an hour here chatting. The guy, about 30 was really interesting. He said there are kind of three parts to BR, out here, the coast and the south where large immigrant populations live. His opinion was the south was the best place to live.
He said company taxes are very high here. He commented on the level of government corruption here.
The price of petrol is largely, like Australia due to government levies and taxes.
Like the Australian government with a federal system here are huge inefficiencies and dead wood on high salaries sitting in offices never seen .
He said John Deere and Massey were the two biggest sellers of ag gear, though John Deere was way infront.
He told me to wait and took off for a couple of minutes and came back and presented me with a peak hat.
Embarrassingly, I had to refuse his gift, I had no need for it and the weight was not worth it.
He said “of course”.
I told him about the family in the US who were fossickers and on my departure presented me with two crystal rocks as a gift. It was classic, he laughed at his own lack of short sightedness when I told him of the weight to carry.
I now had a nice minds eyes picture of the route ahead. It was just a matter of turning the pedals.
From here, I headed into town and had a meal.
My visa here has only 37 odd days to run. I need to get an extension. This can only be done at federal police stations.
A girl on a moto guided me to the local civil station. Here they said there was no feds in Primavera but one was at Barra do Garcus.
This has to be done or else I am going to be caught in the middle of nowhere with an expired visa. It is hoped they will renew it before it expires.
Hopefully, all was understood and there is an office in Barra.
From here I got onto BR070.
Ahh!! A reprieve from the trucks, a few but not so many.
It was bliss.
A little cafe was stopped at some 20km on.
The people made salami here. I asked if it needed refrigerating, no, great, so I bought a stick.
They told me a gas station was twenty km ahead. Here I bathed my body in the icy cold water they all supply.
I topped up my bottles for the night.
In a very relaxed state of mind I was looking for an early day. It was tempting to camp at this big complex.
Refreshed after drinking and cooled off. Again I felt like a few more km, it was 1500.
A little further on at the foot of a downhill run .There was a river, I pulled into inspect its camping potential.
What a lovely spot. A waterfall, shade and privacy.
Here I washed my clothes and had a swim in the clear cool waters.
It was a great campsite, the best for some time.
Cutting the end off the salami I had bought, my taste buds were immediately aroused, it was so delectable. I kept saying to myself “no more”, some third of the stick later, I stopped cutting pieces of it, when my coffee was ready.
The sound of the waterfall was so relaxing. Insects were restricted to little sandflies.
A meal of pasta and tuna was enjoyed with half being left for breakfast.
In bed early and reading, it did not take long for the peaceful noise of the waterfall to send me into another place.
The only problem with water near a camp is often with its noise, people approaching cannot be heard.
My bike was locked to the tent.
Tomorrow BR play Chile I hope BR win, the road may not be to safe if they lose!!
28/6/2014 River camp to cemetery
D73, T7, Av20.33, Max66, 29379, 3756
Mist damp morning, not so hot, SW afternoon winds
A great nights sleep was enjoyed to the calming sound of the waterfall.
Expecting the sun to bath me in the morning. Instead the greeting was by a misty light rain. This really made a difference from all the hot relentless days in the last 15.
The pasta was finished off and my blog bought up to date over a mate.
Finally, camp was broken and vacated by 1000.
As said yesterday BR were playing CH today. I really hoped to watch this game.
Anyway, at about 1150, I chanced upon a cafe bar on the road. Here a coke was enjoyed and a chat with some guys who were having a beer.
Their TV was not working, they told me there was another place down the road.
The owner offered me mate but I told him of my sore throat, he kindly gave me a few lemons to put in my water.
Soon arriving at the little bar on the corner of a brown dirt turn off. Here a meal was enjoyed of the left overs from the buffet.
It was all very rustic, no frills to say the least.
They had a TV going and probably 20 people watching.
They were all indigenous Brasileros, and a few truck drivers.
It was great I pulled up a chair, ate off my lap and settled into what turned out to be a brilliant defensive game of futbol. A shoot out is always a cruel way to get a result.
I have friends in CH, I felt for them when they lost, but it was great to see BR win. It would be fantastic to see them go all the way.
It would be so great for their upcoming Olympics. Everyone would be on a high.
The indigenous people were all speaking a dialect, the children and woman had that classic haircut seen in Nat Geo photos of Brazilian natives.
The men all had pieces of reed through their earlobes.
It was quite a privilege to be here in this little outpost in Mato Grosso, sharing this time with these people. I bought them a couple of bottles of fanta during the game.
I was wrapped to have seen the game. It was uncanny that this place should be out here, miles from anywhere.
Only 15 minutes was missed.
My mind eyes down to my cross bar and stopped upon the now well travelled Eagle feather attached.
It is little occurences like this, that sometimes make me wonder.
Finally getting away with a full load of water at 1500 hours. I was greeted with a lovely Sou wester and had a broad reach on the quiet smooth road for the rest of the day.
Good time was made. It turned out to be almost a normal days ride.
It was such a pleasure in the rolling hills, work hard for 2km and then free wheel for a bit, nice riding.
Nearing dark, the old need arose to find a campsite. There was a good road reserve but not much vegetation.
Then to my right was a cemetery, it was surrounded by a two metre block wall.
Needless to say, a camp had been found.
I stopped and set up camp immediately behind the wall in some long grass just away from the graves.
Just coffee and salami was had for dinner.
Another good day had come to an end.
29/6/2014, Cemetery,Paradeo do Este to church
D119, T8, Av19.49, Max69, 29,498 3876
Slightly overcast still warm
The night was a bit cool as the altitude here is close to 600m.
Time was spent repairing my three legged chair, I had bought heavy needles and thread in NZ just for this.
The pleasure derived from repairing this essential piece of gear far outweighs the pleasures of buying a new one. Having time and plenty of it allows me to derive pleasures from simple things like this.
Time, or the lack of it in most peoples worlds robs them of these simplicities, there is always a Walmart or Big W just a drive away.
Overnight quite a breeze blew though I had protection from the block fence.
On the road riding again was a pleasure, up and down , a good average was set.
Arriving in the small pueblito, some nuts and jubes were bought.
Traffic was light and cars equalled trucks for a change.
At 70km about 1300, I was feeling very hungry. A small truck stop diner came up. Here a full meal was enjoyed. I had descended from the 600m to about 330. A good wash at the tap was also cherished. My water was topped up and I headed off. Again making good time on the enjoyable terrain.
The country now is covered in a dry sclerophyll type forest, most trees are only 10 to 15m tall.
More indigenous people occupied this land.
Animal sightings were few.
It was a gentle overall descent again today
Nearing the end of the day I pulled into to a property where a woman was washing her car, she gladly gave me water. I was now set up for the night.
The camping spots were a bit lean. The road reserve was very narrow.
Another town was chanced upon. Here an old church was seen.
Pulling in I asked the man next door if I could spend the night camping there. It was all good.
I always say I have water and food and will be leaving early.
It seems to keep most people happy. Oh, yes, and tell them it’s only for one night and I will say goodbye in the morning.
The tent was pitched under the eaves of the old buiding, so dew should not be a problem.
Soup was enjoyed for dinner with a coffee and biscuits to start.
The evening was comfortably mild and insect free. Though a good distance was covered, it was easy riding. I am not to worn out which is a good sign.
30/6/2014 Church General Caneiro to Barra do Garcus
D49, T3, Av15.37, Max56, 29,547 3925
Fine and warm, no wind
Though the early evening was mild, by 0300 in the morning it was cold enough to have to put on my long pants and raincoat in my sleeping bag.
It is a tropical model, basically, not much more than a sheet sown into a bag, though one side is thin Dacron and fill.
I have over estimated the nighttime temperatures a bit.
Excess water was heated and a shave endured. Having to visit the Federal Police today I did not want to look to vagrant.
The man next door was not about so a card with thanks was left on his fence.
The ride of 40km into town was easy, rolling hills, pasture and a mix of low trees.
Like all these rural towns this was another mecca for big trucks.
The gas stations are huge, with parking areas around them measured in acres.
A stop was made at a large supermarket to stock up on coffee and a few other staples.
Stopping at one gas station I spent time talking with drivers who gave me more info about Ruta 158. It seems it too could be busy. We will see.
Further towards town another stop was made at a vehicle repair place where the guys and I tried to adjust my seat tensioner, the perspiration has ceased the adjuster nut. It was a two person, seat off the bike, vice grips and spanner job. They were great.
Next stop was to find the Feds.
This done, they told me they were closed till 1300, a drink was had in a nearby bar with indigenous people, there is quite a community here.
Back at the police station. I had keyed into my translator the gist of what was needed, visa wise.
We spoke at length about the distances and the whereabout of other federal police offices.
I could not make the next one with the time still remaining on my present 60 day visa .Even if I could , the last thing I wanted to do was put a time frame on proceedings.
This changes all dynamics when cycling. I like to stop when and where I feel like it.
With the present time 40km a day was needed to Marabá. Thats without rests or bad weather. This pressure was not needed.
Anyway the long and the short of it is that I cannot get it renewed until only 30 days are left. It is now 37 days.
I hope to just keep ring and catch a bus back here to Barra do Garcas in 7 or eight days.
The officer, a good guy said to come and see him and he will issue me with 90 days. This should see me easily up to the Amazon river then some.
Finding a suitable hotel here was a hassle two hours later and lots of questions the hotel 2 Rios was booked. It is great, with a nice big courtyard, sunny room and walking distance to the confluence of the rivers Araguaia and rio Das Garcas.
These towns are not mentioned in Lonely Planet, that is what is so nice about being in these places. People have time to talk and help you. They are not just wanting your money. These small (70,000) towns are what makes countries like BR work.
My experiences in these out of the way places are more than just visual, here interaction with locals is always a pleasure.
Visiting big tourist cities is generally just a visual experience, especially if you are in a group, you generally don’t mix with the locals and only talk amongst yourselves .
This town has a lovely river frontage with bars and restaurants and has a very relaxed feel about it .
I just wish I could speak their damn language.!
A drink in a bar and a meal was enjoyed.
The night was a battle with mosquitos, the fan in the room was the only thing that stopped them from biting me to bits.
I am sitting here in the restaurant at the hotel after having a great fresh fruit complimentary breakfast, The accommodation is 40R for a night .
With some time I thought I might just list the 12 things that I could not possibly do without, some of these are personal, the list does not include obvious things like my bike or tent! Some are not tangible.
1. My three legged camp stool
2. Both Opinel Knives
3. MSR Whisperlite International
4. 2 inch tyres
5. Pillow slip
6. Music
7. Camera
8. A vivid imagination
9. Having dreams that are for the most part becoming reality.
10. My handle bar towel.
11. Writing my blog, these detailed chronicles will be an interesting read for me in old age. (computer)
12. Time, and lots of it.
Life is pretty good for me at the moment. Though, I am totally aware that everything could radically change should an accident or poor health eventuate. Oh, such is life!
MATO GROSSO, some facts
Capital: Cuiabá
Population: 520,000
State Pop:2,500,000
Area:906,806.9 km² (350,027 mi²)
Economy:Agribusiness, Leads Brazil in cattle production - 27 million head
The major producer of soybeans in Brazil.
Ranked 9th in the world in cotton production
Produces 51% of Brazil's and 3.9% of World's cotton
Home to large, vast cattle ranches. A tropical Texas, with room to grow.
30 years ago most of the State was in Mato Grosso (thick forest) or Cerrado (savannah brush). There were no highways, just dirt roads hundreds of kilometers long cutting through the dense tropical forest.
Mato Grosso has 230,000 planted hectares of eucalyptus and 65,000 of teak. (2014 Imea)
The possible road ahead, Ruta 158
On the way out of Rondonópolis
What is in most of those trucks
The largest Massey available here in BR, made in France
Silo complex, Primavera
Watching BR beat CH here, with the locals.
Always good campsites
Approaching Barra do Garcas (pop'n 58,000)
From cemetery to church, this church was little used by the look of its condition.
Cotton country
A couple of years on and still hanging in with some TLC!
At the end of a day, on this seat with a coffee and some sweet biscuits is overwhelmingly relaxing.
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A component of "The Soya Express"
first night with the ants.
Like Ecuador these hourly rate motels are popular for couples with that urge.
A great campsite
Poor bugger. A casualty of the Soya Express.
Typical scenery
Downtown Barra Do Garcas, Rio Araguaia
These family run roadside diners are popular with truck drivers and serve great home cooked meals, generally having Coca Cola in glass bottles.
I always ask drivers about my route plans, they are willing to offer their thoughts on various roads.
"Entrance/ exit indigenous villages" on the way to General Carneiro
Dois Rios Hotel Barra Do Garcas, 3 nights here is a pleasure, they had great brekkys, my room is on the left of the photo.
$20/night very affordable
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