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  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
26/6/2014 Rondonópolis to 10km past Poxoreó

D101, T8, Av16.35, max71, 29,229 3608

30+ degrees clear, no wind

Saying goodbye to Carlos, the Peruano,  whom I dined with each night. I had already been to the supermarket to buy bread and oranges. Also a bottle of water.

I like to change these bottles now and again as the PET may breakdown.

Leaving town a couple of hose clamps were also bought.

My gear is actually getting heavier. Oh well, I can ditch some if it gets to tough.

I was taking MT 130 to Primavera, another route used by the soya express, though not as heavy as 163.

The road pretty much had no shoulder and there were lots of roadworks going on, which was in some cases handy as I would use the free side of the road.

These Brasilero truck drivers so far have been just the best, we are sharing the road.

If there was an oncoming truck and one was coming at me from behind, he would toot to let me know there was not enough room to safely pass. I would wave and just cruise onto the grass or gravel edge.

It all worked well. So in this respect I take my hat off to these guys. There were no intimidation antics going on.

About 1500, I pulled into a large truck stop place and had a yarn with a driver of a huge B double.

We spoke about the road ahead, so, in this light, information is slowly being gathered on the most sensible route to take me north to the Amazon river.

This is approximately 2000km to my north.

Here in BR where they have built roads people and their urges to change what lies alongside them has followed. In this light, there has been little natural vegetation , just farms and crops.

Another traveller said to me in Bolivia, if you want to see rainforest,  don’t come to BR, a fair comment to date.

This road taking me north will be like this. In some respects, it can be paralleled to crossing an often featureless ocean to an island destination.

This for me will not make it any less enjoyable, there are always things of interest if one looks hard enough and throughs a little imagination into the scene.

Here at the truck stop a litre of coke disappeared like water over a precipice.

It was at the top of a large range, so a great free wheel off its peak was enjoyed for 3 or 4 km.

At 1630 a pool bar was seen on the roadside here I stopped for another large coke in glass of course.

The days are so hot and dry now hydration and its maintenance are super important.

I spent time here chatting with the locals.

For the most part, Spanish is used with the odd word of Portuguese thrown in, we all seem to get the  gist of things. The kids here are learning English at school.

On leaving one of the guys I was talking to while he was having a beer with his lady. Said something about pagar on the way as he left.

I went to pay, the woman said the man had paid for my coke.

How generous, things like this are so special as each of these countries is visited.

My first reaction was no no, I left money for the woman to give to him to buy a beer next time he came by.

I stocked up on the nights water here.

This is,  two drink bottles, a plastic bottle and the 6 litre bladder.

On dark, a side track parallel with the road was spotted. There were no fresh tracks, this was entered with a gap in traffic.

The tiniest of spots, free from direct vision of traffic was found in long grass right below the highway.

Unfortunately,  I was not alone, an ants nest had been disturbed. I sat there on my stool and observed these guys for sometime, really not wanting to move. I let them crawl over my feet. They were happy just exploring and when disturbed did not become aggressive. This confirmed that the both of us could comfortably co exist here tonight.

Just bread was had for dinner. The last night in Rondo I had devoured a huge all you could eat buffet with Carlos.

It is amazing this lasted all day without eating.

So just bread and Nutella, a cup of coffee and a few oranges were had for dinner.

Over time, I have got to know my body really well at the extreme end of its needs and wants. My idea is not to get close to this extreme limit too often. After all everything has to sustainable.

Every morning, has to be greeted in a charged state, if not, a rest in a town has to be made.

From a mental point of view, positive encouragement is occasionally required.

Climbing into the tent very quickly, it was seen that no ants were to be sharing the night inside with me.

Before getting in, I observed them just going about their nightly activities in the deep layer of grass I had flattened to the ground.

I feel they knew I was not here to harm them. Though, their routine and highways had been serious disturbed.

 27/6/2014 Poxereó to river camp 30km past Primavera

D76, T7, Av16.73, Max55, 29,305 3684

Fine hot

My camp was open to the east, as soon as the sun came up the temperature rose with it. Probably 25 degrees by 0800.

Brekky was enjoyed. The tent was hung to dry the dew on a fence line.

Back on the road, the trucks were still heading north empty and back full.

It was uneventful ride into Primavera, an agricultural servicing town .On the way in was an enormous grain silo complex. The sign Cargill was painted on the fence.

This is an American corporate giant, operating here in BR, handling grains.

This is one of the sources of the loads all those trucks were moving soya back to Sao Paulo to be shipped to China via the Panama Canal.

The carbon footprint from planting to a processing plant in China must be huge.

Just thinking along these lines. Almost everything that moves that is not living on our planet uses crude oil in various states of refinement.

It is really quite amazing, I am in this little spot on earth watching all these trucks and the same thing is going on all over the world. Billons and billons of litres used every day.

We are a very fortunate species to be endowed with such a resource.

In Primavera, I wanted to know more about the road ahead, there were two options here, one keep going north or swing east to Barra do Garcus.

It is important to talk to people who are mobile.

A large Massey Ferguson outlet was spotted. Pulling in here,  I asked if they had a minute or two.

We sat down and the guy pulled up maps on his laptop.

The short of it is that some of these un paved roads have sections of deep sand.

I spent an hour here chatting. The guy, about 30 was really interesting. He said there are kind of three parts to BR, out here, the coast and the south where large immigrant populations live. His opinion was the south was the best place to live.

He said company taxes are very high here. He commented on the level of government corruption here.

The price of petrol is largely, like Australia due to government levies and taxes.

Like the Australian government with a federal system here are huge inefficiencies and dead wood on high salaries sitting in offices never seen .

He said John Deere and Massey were the two biggest sellers of ag gear, though John Deere was way infront.

He told me to wait and took off for a couple of minutes and came back and presented me with a peak hat.

Embarrassingly, I had to refuse his gift, I had no need for it and the weight was not worth it.

He said “of course”.

 I told him about the family in the US who were fossickers and on my departure presented me with two crystal rocks as a gift. It was classic, he laughed at his own lack of short sightedness when I told him of the weight to carry.

I now had a nice minds eyes picture of the route ahead. It was just a matter of turning the pedals.

From here,  I headed into town and had a meal.

My visa here has only 37 odd days to run. I need to get an extension. This can only be done at federal police stations.

A girl on a moto guided me to the local civil station. Here they said there was no feds in Primavera but one was at Barra do Garcus.

This has to be done or else I am going to be caught in the middle of nowhere with an expired visa. It is hoped they will renew it before it expires.

Hopefully, all was understood and there is an office in Barra.

From here I got onto BR070.

Ahh!!  A reprieve from the trucks, a few but not so many.

It was bliss.

A little cafe was stopped at some 20km on.

The people made salami here. I asked if it needed refrigerating, no, great, so I bought a stick.

They told me a gas station was twenty km ahead. Here I bathed my body in the icy cold water they all supply.

I topped up my bottles for the night.

In a very relaxed state of mind I was looking for an early day. It was tempting to camp at this big complex.

Refreshed after drinking and cooled off. Again I felt like a few more km, it was 1500.

A little further on at the foot of a downhill run .There was a river, I pulled into inspect its camping potential. 

What a lovely spot. A waterfall, shade and privacy.

Here I washed my clothes and had a swim in the clear cool waters.

It was a great campsite, the best for some time.

Cutting the end off the salami I had bought, my taste buds were immediately aroused, it was so delectable. I kept saying to myself “no more”, some third of the stick later, I stopped cutting pieces of it, when my coffee was ready.

The sound of the waterfall was so relaxing. Insects were restricted to little sandflies.

A meal of pasta and tuna was enjoyed with half being left for breakfast.

In bed early and reading, it did not take long for the peaceful noise of the waterfall to send me into another place.

The only problem with water near a camp is often with its noise, people approaching cannot be heard.

My bike was locked to the tent.

Tomorrow BR play Chile I hope BR win, the road may not be to safe if they lose!!

 28/6/2014 River camp to cemetery

D73, T7, Av20.33, Max66, 29379, 3756

Mist damp morning, not so hot, SW afternoon winds

 A great nights sleep was enjoyed to the calming sound of the waterfall.

Expecting the sun to bath me in the morning. Instead the greeting was by a misty light rain. This really made a difference from all the hot relentless days in the last 15.

The pasta was finished off and my blog bought up to date over a mate.

Finally, camp was broken and vacated by 1000.

As said yesterday BR were playing CH today. I really hoped to watch this game.

Anyway, at about 1150, I chanced upon a cafe bar on the road. Here a coke was enjoyed and a chat with some guys who were having a beer.

Their TV was not working, they told me there was another place down the road.

The owner offered me mate but I told him of my sore throat, he kindly gave me a few lemons to put in my water.

Soon arriving at the little bar on the corner of a brown dirt turn off. Here a meal was enjoyed of the left overs from the buffet.

It was all very rustic, no frills to say the least.

They had a TV going and probably 20 people watching.

They were all indigenous Brasileros, and a few truck drivers.

It was great I pulled up a chair, ate off my lap and settled into what turned out to be a brilliant defensive game of futbol. A shoot out is always a cruel way to get a result.

I have friends in CH, I felt for them when they lost, but it was great to see BR win. It would be fantastic to see them go all the way.

It would be so great for their upcoming Olympics. Everyone would be on a high.

The indigenous people were all speaking a dialect, the children and woman had that classic haircut seen in Nat Geo photos of Brazilian natives.

The men all had pieces of reed through their earlobes.

It was quite a privilege to be here in this little outpost in Mato Grosso, sharing this time with these people. I bought them a couple of bottles of fanta during the game.

I was wrapped to have seen the game. It was uncanny that this place should be out here, miles from anywhere.

Only 15 minutes was missed.

My mind eyes down to my cross bar and stopped upon the now well travelled Eagle feather attached.

It is little occurences like this, that sometimes make me wonder.

Finally getting away with a full load of water at 1500 hours. I was greeted with a lovely Sou wester and had a broad reach on the quiet smooth road for the rest of the day.

Good time was made. It turned out to be almost a normal days ride.

It was such a pleasure in the rolling hills, work hard for 2km and then free wheel for a bit, nice riding.

Nearing dark, the old need arose to find a campsite. There was a good road reserve but not much vegetation.

Then to my right was a cemetery, it was surrounded by a two metre block wall.

Needless to say, a camp had been found.

I stopped and set up camp immediately behind the wall in some long grass just away from the graves.

 Just coffee and salami was had for dinner.

Another good day had come to an end.

29/6/2014, Cemetery,Paradeo do Este to church

D119, T8, Av19.49, Max69, 29,498 3876

Slightly overcast still warm

The night was a bit cool as the altitude here is close to 600m.

Time was spent repairing my three legged chair, I had bought heavy needles and thread in NZ just for this.

The pleasure derived from repairing this essential piece of gear far outweighs the pleasures of buying a new one. Having time and plenty of it allows me to derive pleasures from simple things like this.

Time, or the lack of it in most peoples worlds robs them of these simplicities, there is always a Walmart or Big W just a drive away.  

Overnight quite a breeze blew though I had protection from the block fence.

On the road riding again was a pleasure, up and down , a good average was set.

Arriving in the small pueblito, some nuts and jubes were bought.

Traffic was light and cars equalled trucks for a change.

 At 70km about 1300, I was feeling very hungry. A small truck stop diner came up. Here a full meal was enjoyed.  I had descended from the 600m to about 330. A good wash at the tap was also cherished. My water was topped up and I headed off. Again making good time on the enjoyable terrain.

The country now is covered in a dry sclerophyll type forest, most trees are only 10 to 15m tall.

More indigenous people occupied this land.

Animal sightings were few.

It was a gentle overall descent again today

Nearing the end of the day I pulled into to a property where a woman was washing her car, she gladly gave me water. I was now set up for the night.

The camping spots were a bit lean. The road reserve was very narrow.

Another town was chanced upon. Here an old church was seen.

Pulling in I asked the man next door if I could spend the night camping there. It was all good.

I always say I have water and food and will be leaving early.

It seems to keep most people happy. Oh, yes, and tell them it’s only for one night and I will say goodbye in the morning.

The tent was pitched under the eaves of the old buiding, so dew should not be a problem.

Soup was enjoyed for dinner with a coffee and biscuits to start.

The evening was comfortably mild and insect free. Though a good distance was covered, it was easy riding. I am not to worn out which is a good sign.

30/6/2014 Church General Caneiro to Barra do Garcus

D49, T3, Av15.37, Max56, 29,547 3925

Fine and warm, no wind

Though the early evening was mild, by 0300 in the morning it was cold enough to have to put on my long pants and raincoat in my sleeping bag.

It is a tropical model, basically, not much more than a sheet sown into a bag, though one side is thin Dacron and fill.

I have over estimated the nighttime temperatures a bit.

Excess water was heated and a shave endured. Having to visit the Federal Police today I did not want to look to vagrant.

The man next door was not about so a card with thanks was left on his fence.

The ride of 40km into town was easy, rolling hills, pasture and a mix of low trees.

Like all these rural towns this was another mecca for big trucks.

The gas stations are huge, with parking areas around them measured in acres.

A stop was made at a large supermarket to stock up on coffee and a few other staples.

Stopping at one gas station I spent time talking with drivers who gave me more info about Ruta 158. It seems it too could be busy. We will see.

Further towards town another stop was made at a vehicle repair place where the guys and I tried to adjust my seat tensioner, the perspiration has ceased the adjuster nut. It was a two person, seat off the bike, vice grips and spanner job. They were great.

Next stop was to find the Feds.

This done, they told me they were closed till 1300, a drink was had in a nearby bar with indigenous people, there is quite a community here.

Back at the police station. I had keyed into my translator the gist of what was needed, visa wise.

We spoke at length about the distances and the whereabout of other federal police offices.

I could not make the next one with the time still remaining on my present 60 day visa .Even if I could , the last thing I wanted to do was put a time frame on proceedings.

This changes all dynamics when cycling. I like to stop when and where I feel like it.

With the present time 40km a day was needed to Marabá. Thats without rests or bad weather. This pressure was not needed.

Anyway the long and the short of it is that I cannot get it renewed until only 30 days are left. It is now 37 days.

I hope to just keep ring and catch a bus back here to Barra do Garcas in 7 or eight days.

The officer, a good guy said to come and see him and he will issue me with 90 days. This should see me easily up to the Amazon river then some.

Finding a suitable hotel here was a hassle two hours later and lots of questions the hotel 2 Rios was booked. It is great, with a nice big courtyard, sunny room and walking distance to the confluence of the rivers Araguaia and rio Das Garcas.

These towns are not mentioned in Lonely Planet, that is what is so nice about being in these places. People have time to talk and help you. They are not just wanting your money. These small (70,000) towns are what makes countries like BR work.

My experiences in these out of the way places are more than just visual, here interaction with locals is always a pleasure.

Visiting big tourist cities is generally just a visual experience, especially if you are in a group, you generally don’t mix with the locals and only talk amongst yourselves .

This town has a lovely river frontage with bars and restaurants and has a very relaxed feel about it .

I just wish I could speak their damn language.!

A drink in a bar and a meal was enjoyed.

The night was a battle with mosquitos, the fan in the room was the only thing that stopped them from biting me to bits.

I am sitting here in the restaurant at the hotel after having a great fresh fruit complimentary breakfast, The accommodation is 40R for a night .

With some time I thought I might just list the 12 things that I could not possibly do without, some of these are personal,  the list does not include obvious things like my bike or tent! Some are not tangible.

1.    My three legged camp stool

2.    Both Opinel Knives

3.    MSR Whisperlite International

4.    2 inch tyres

5.    Pillow slip

6.    Music

7.    Camera

8.    A vivid imagination

9.    Having dreams that are for the most part becoming reality.

10. My handle bar towel.

11. Writing my blog, these detailed chronicles will be an interesting read for me in old age. (computer)

12. Time, and lots of it.

Life is pretty good for me at the moment. Though, I am totally aware that everything could radically change should an accident or poor health eventuate. Oh, such is life!

MATO GROSSO, some facts
 

Capital: Cuiabá

Population: 520,000

State Pop:2,500,000

Area:906,806.9 km² (350,027 mi²)

Economy:Agribusiness, Leads Brazil in cattle production - 27 million head

  The major producer of soybeans in Brazil. 

Ranked 9th in the world in cotton production

Produces 51% of Brazil's and 3.9% of World's cotton

Home to large, vast cattle ranches. A tropical Texas, with room to grow.

30 years ago most of the State was in Mato Grosso (thick forest) or Cerrado (savannah brush).  There were no highways, just dirt roads hundreds of kilometers long cutting through the dense tropical forest.

Mato Grosso has 230,000 planted hectares of eucalyptus and 65,000 of teak. (2014 Imea)


The possible road ahead
, Ruta 158


Picture
On the way out of Rondonópolis
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What is in most of those trucks
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The largest Massey available here in BR, made in France
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Silo complex, Primavera
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Watching BR beat CH here, with the locals.
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Always good campsites
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Approaching Barra do Garcas (pop'n 58,000)
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From cemetery to church, this church was little used by the look of its condition.
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Cotton country
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A couple of years on and still hanging in with some TLC! At the end of a day, on this seat with a coffee and some sweet biscuits is overwhelmingly relaxing.
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A component of "The Soya Express"
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first night with the ants.
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Like Ecuador these hourly rate motels are popular for couples with that urge.
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A great campsite
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Poor bugger. A casualty of the Soya Express.
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Typical scenery
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Downtown Barra Do Garcas, Rio Araguaia
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These family run roadside diners are popular with truck drivers and serve great home cooked meals, generally having Coca Cola in glass bottles. I always ask drivers about my route plans, they are willing to offer their thoughts on various roads.
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"Entrance/ exit indigenous villages" on the way to General Carneiro
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Dois Rios Hotel Barra Do Garcas, 3 nights here is a pleasure, they had great brekkys, my room is on the left of the photo. $20/night very affordable
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