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  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
Picture
Picture
20/4/2015   Omorate to Mission Todonyang

D59, T5, Av10.96, Max26, 40,146, 5,197

Fine day. Very hot and humid

We were up early to get to the administration, as they opened, to get this so called document to use the bridge. We got there at 0800 or 0200 Ethiopian time.

 We waited for  an hour and a half. I went outside to repair something on the bike. A guy was spoken to about this bridge business. He told me the boss of police was around the other side of the building I went to see him and explained the situation. He made a phone call and got on his moto. He said follow. I grabbed Pedro who was still waiting outside the office inside.

We were slow, as we road towards the bridge he was coming back and waved us to go on.

At the bridge the guy was highly annoyed. He had been told by his superior to let us pass.

We even had to move the barriers, he did not want to.

His side kick in civies come up to us and asked for money, we told him we had no Birr.

It felt like being let out of prison going over the bridge. We never looked back. Once over I said to Pedro, let’s just get out of here before we arrange our gear in case they change their minds.

The road was just an alluvial track. Even the slightest rain would have turned it into a glue like mud.

We rode hard and fast.

There were villages all along the way. The soil was rich and deep, corn was growing.

The road however went through wet patches that were pure mud. Any more rain and we would have been spending a night out here. We road close to the ever eroding sandy faces of the river bank.

The alluvial area was soon left behind. This turned into a crusty type of snady, luckily made firm by the recent rains. The landscape was huge. It was open to the east north and south. To our west was South Sudan.

It was a treeless desert. A vehicle passed us and luckily broke the crust, I was ahead and purposely rode where the vehicle wheels had broken the crust, this made life a bit easier.

Herdsmen were seen off in the distance. A shimmery mirage was seen amongst some isolated trees way off in the distance. They looked like they were growing in water.

It was this kind of landscape to our sth west were blue ranges and to our east somewhere in the vastness was Lake Turkana, whose principle water source is from the Omo river in Ethiopia.

Off in the distance we coud see a hillock, here was the last military outpost of Ethiopia, reaching here they checked our passports and told us to move on.

Goodbye Ethiopia.

Soon we came upon the military camp t the Kenyan border. It was nothing more thn a lean to with a roof and a couple of seats. The guys were so friendly, we spend over an hour just talking and laughing .

It was great to be talking in English with people who could understand fast normal conversation. They gave us a great welcome to Kenya.

I was reasonably distressed having still to cope with this diarrhea, here a wlk was taken out into the landscape to relieve myself once again at an odd hour. There were no trees to hide behind out here.

Off in the distance we could see the mission at Todenyang. It was still hard riding across the loose sand. There were only drought tolerant plants growing, these were not much taller than ankle height.

On arrival at this large enclosure, we were greeted by a cople of Kenyans. They said it was fine to camp there.

We set up near the shores of Tukana under shelters where permanent tents were standing.

They view to the Lake was impressive.

This lake is infested with crocodiles but rich in fish. One needs a boat to safely fish its shores. We bought a melon off the staff, they had Israeli people there instructing them how to irrigate with fertilizers.

We ate little for dinner and were in bed very early after a bucket shower.

 

 

 

 

21/4/2015   Mission Todonyang to Mission Lowarengak

D21, T2.33, Av8.29, Max16, 40,161, 5,100

Fine day, very hot and humid.

The night had been unbelievably hot and sticky again. I was up at 0100 with my diahrea. This has now been going on for almost a month on and off.

The leftover of my watermelon was finished off and porridge was enjoyed. Eating is the most important thing. Forcing myself to eat has to be done. I took a lomotil. Anyway within half and hour my whole breakfast was passed.

 I still felt ok however. We got away about 0930. A thorn had punctured my rear tyre so this had to be repaired.

We thanked the people at the mission.

This place was a big complex with thousands of dollars of gear just sitting around dterioating in the weather.

There was a D6 dozer, quite new, just rotting in the weather. The Catholic church have plenty so I guess it it is no problem. There were tents set up under thatched roof areas, the roofs were falling apart and the heavy canvas safari tents were also in need of some maintenance.

Everyone at the mission was Kenyan and most were of Turkana origins. There were crop growing facitilities, gots grazing and ad elaborate chook house. Two girls from Lodwar were here teaching for a year. The pupils come from the waring tribes. It is a nice way to possibly help future generations find some peace. The fighting is all over pasture and grazing areas. Many people actually get killed.

One on the road of sorts, well it was really a sandy track, we soon got amongst loose sand, riding became difficult.

Things further deteriorated, we had to push the bikes for stretches in lower areas. We could see the lake on our right. The terrain was just flat and featurelss except in the distance to the west where there were blue shaded ranges.

Some Sudanese border control troops came past in a couple of trucks they offered us tides to Nairobi. Tempting but no!.

Wild camel herds were seen, as were herdsmen in the distance. Now and again one with his goats would cross up ahead in the distance.

Acacias were scattered across the landscape. Where the track passed through a stand of these, the going got difficult. The rain could not penetrate the sand and the trees had sucked all the water from it. Consequently it wasa pushing job. We are carrying lots of water. I carry my 6L bladder, a 2l bottle, a 1.5L pus my 2 drink bottles. We were both dropping our bikes on many occasions.

It is best to just let them fall, fighting it is just a wate of energy.

In the dry season, there are dust storms out here and water is very important. Pedro and I are late coming through here. We have beemn lucky with a weather window and the sand has some moisture. It would be very loose and dry after 5 months without rain.

Oliver said to take alot of water. This we have done but never really used it all. Though, it is so nice to know we have plenty to spare.

We stopped for lunch in a dry riverbed under a shady stand of Acacias. I was weak and needed to eat badly.

Pedro had cold pasta. I had a High Country Dehy curried beef, a bread roll with onion and tomato plus a cup of chocolate and coffee. Prior to this I had taked a gel.

We had a group of kids join us for lunch. It is school holidays nows, they had been fishing but with no luck.

The children here are well mannered and show respect. They Speak Swahili, Turkana and some English.

From here the road improved a bit. We passed two guys, with a string of large fish caught in the lake.

Soon we arrived at the village, not before I had to stop and promptly dumped everything I had for lunch, what a waste.

I was now very weak.

In the village we were taken to the mission they said we could camp the night.

I was feeling a little delirious and drank two bottles of warm sprite.

We were shown our building that we could use. All I could do was set up my tent climb in it and feel asleep.

This diahrea has been going on to long. So it was decided to take a dose of Secnidizol which kills parasites. I had this problem in Peru.

I ate noodles and soy meat later in the afternoon, then later had pasta and onions with tomatoes, all was held down.

The night was so humid and sticky. In my tent I was just soaking and needed a hand towel just to keep dry.

Mosquitos were not about, the locals said the malaria species are not present here.

We slept inside our tents anyway.

This village has no power, the people live in dome huts made of anything they can find. They are in groups bounded by dry thorny branches as fences.

I went across to the main area of the mission to get some drinking water. All the ground water in this area is saline. The water has to be trucked in. Earlier in the day a huge convey of semis and other trucks went through the village. They are oil explorers.

22/4/2015   Mission Todonyang to Mission Nariokotome

D33, T3.28, Av9.41, Max28, 40,194, 5,133

Heavy morning rain, cleared about 1000

The night had been like sleeping in a sauna. At least there was no need to get up and go to the toilet in the middle of the night.

 Early in the morning rain had come down and continued to do so till about 0930.

We decided not to move till we were sure it had passed.

We managed to find some Chapati to buy. This is  the local staple, like a fried very thin pancake.

Leaving town things were still very wet. We went over to thank the father and top up on water.

The road now was sand mixed with gravel so the surface was much better. We crossed a number of creek beds that had carried water earlier in the morning.

The lake could often be seen off in the distance. Everything else was so dry and the moat common tree was the Acacia. There were many small clusters of the Clans, the small circular huts that the turkana people live in.

People were seen most of the way, though not in large numbers. Most were moving or tending to goats and sheep.

Two small creeks needed to be crossed. This was done by me only removing my front panniers and wheeling the bike through the calf deep water.

People were also moving along the road on motorbikes, few vehicles were seen. Coming to the Nariokotome river it was easy to see why. The riverbed was holding 3 streams of turbulent water. The flow on the far shore was especially dangerous.

We had no choice but to wait here till the flow subsided.

All these river beds begin to carry water if it has fallen in the ranges to our east. Whilst waiting a Hilux pulled up. Matt was driving the vehicle with a couple of Kenyan guys with him. They were from an Irish Oil company we talked for an hour.

They decided not to try and cross.

We waited for another half hour, some locals began crossing, the water was only knee deep now.

For me it took 5 trips across the brown waters. Carrying my bar bag with phone and other electrics is always a problem. Slipping cannot be afforded.

There were some large rocks under the surface, these could not be seen. Extra caution had to be taken when placing our next step.

Once across, we set off again. Just up from the creek bed was a monument to the Turkana Boy. One of the oldest humanoid skeletons ever found. It is believed to be between 1.5 and 1.6 million years old. We had a quick look here, but some locals wanted us to pay to take photos. We did not stay long.

 

Riding on, unbeknown to us we missed the turn off to the mission. The low spots in the road still carried water and at times we had to walk.

Asking some truck drivers a few km on we found that the turnoff to the mission was back a way.

We were both worn out and had to ride the 3km back and the 3km off the main road to the mission.

It was a huge compound with many buildings and large water tanks on stands. There was a large church constructed from local rock in the middle of the complex. Many buildings were in need of some repair.

 Here we meet with Father Antonio, a Spanish clergyman, he was was very casual and likeable guy.

We were taken to a little house with a kitchen and a couple of bedrooms with beds. This was fantastic.

We showered and ate. They had a generator going till 2300.

We put our mosquito nets up which is now standard practice when in hotels. Many supply them but often they are riddled with holes.

My back is still quite sore from pushing and falling off the bike over the last few days.

The air was a bit cooler here and a lovely breeze was coming off the lake. Sleep came rapidly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

23/4/2015  Mission Nariokotome to Kataboy village and mission

D51, T5, Av11.92, Max34, 40,245, 5,184

Fine, very hot and humid

The staff kindly bought us over breakfast in the morning. It was simple but great. Bread, jam, and tea in a flask. We headed over to thank father Antonio.

We also bought some fuel from him, a small donation was also given.

One which he said was not necessary.

It was an easy ride back to the main, if you could call it that.

Things had dried out a little, a truck that was being repaired last evening was still on the side of the track with the men working on it.

There were small clusters of clans in places as we rode. These are the huts the turkana people make from the fronds of the Doum palm, Hyphaene compressa.

Herds of goats and sheep were always seen and on looking carefully their owner was some where to be seen. Often under a nearby Acacia tree in the shade. The shops in the small villages  sold very little and none had electricity so cold drinks were out.

They sold little packs of glucose which I bought to add to my drink bottle.

I have been reluctantly taking Ibupofen to ease my back pain.

Having to walk around one area of deep puddles on the road, Pedro picked up a flat tyre. He repaired this us a tree. We had a bit of an audience but nothing like in Ethiopia. The people are quite and do not push to get closer and are not always touching our gear. It is such a relief from the need to be always vigilant.

The huge mass of Lake Turkana could be seen at the end of the water course we were on. Some older Turkana men were repairing nets on the sand .

Riding on some few km pedro got another flat tyre.

I fell asleep under a tree whilst he fixed it. Some Turkana women were sitting under another nearby tree. With them, they had bundles of Doum palm fronds.

The clusters of Clans were becoming more common. The only things of any interest in the shops were the packets of glucose and little packs of biscuits.

Most sold the staple beans and a few other dry grains.

On arrival in Kataboy we were guided to the mission, here father Bruno welcomed us and allowed us to set the tents up inside the verandha.

I am at a real loss without my stove and ended up using Pedros just to boil some water to put in a high Country dehy pack.

I always carry 5 of these for emergencies. I have now used them all. The mission uses only solar power and we could not charge our phones. A bucket shower was taken. Again I tried in vane to remove the inner cable from my stove fuel line with no success.

We slept inside our mesh inners of the tents. These make the best mosquito screens.

 

 24/4/2015  Kataboy village and mission to Kalokol

D30, T3, Av11.39, Max25, 40,276, 5,244

Fine, very hot and humid

Father Bruno and I once again tried to pull the cable out of my stove fuel line. It had been soaked in CRC all night. There was no way the two of us could budge it. I resigned myself to the fact that it was no longer usable.

I will need a replacement. After nearly three and a half years of use, sometimes 4 times a day, often using dirty fuel, it has served me well.

Pedro left ahead of me as I had gear scattered everywhere and needed to repack slowly.

This section of road was at least firm enough to ride the whole way. The scary thing about it was that for much of the way we were in these dry riverbeds.

Any rain would have seen the road unpassable for miles.

Each day we are taking about 6-8 litres of water with us. Early in the day little is used. Once the heat settles in, it is amazing just how much water can be drunk in a short time.

The road to Kalakol was getting a bit better with actual road base laid down, though there were large rocks half buried in many places which made for a very bumpy uncomfortable ride. In places corrugations were bad.

Turkana people were present along its length, looking after their animals. We stopped for lunch under a shady group of trees in a river bed. A group of kids joined us. They just sat in a line and watched us eat. They spoke and lughed at a few comments. Their understanding of English was poor. They spoke Swahili.

Another two guys were seen carrying fresh fish to Kalokol which was now only 2km away.

Before arriving in the town, there was a dry riverbed where dozens of people were digging in the sand to retrieve water some 1 metre down .

They were scooping this out into the drums and carting them mostly on the very sturdy Neelam bicycles that are made in Kenya. Some guys had 7 20L drums full of water on these workhorses, many of which had solid rubber tyres.

They have double cross bars and front fork supports. People are often seen carrying huge loads of firewood on these bikes.

On arrival in town it was great to be in our first town that resembled civilisation as we know it.

There were still no power lines. The town used individual generators.

A cold coke was found. I don’t like to admit it but it was so so good. We ate mangoes, oranges and bananas, they all tasted just as good.

The town was a busy place with a great market. There was a fish market of sorts here also. The dried fish sold in bales of 5000 pieces were sold to buyers from the Congo.

Many of whom were here to buy the fish from lake Turkana.

I bought 6 smoked fish for the ride tomorrow to Lodwar.

We ate at the restaurant of our hotel. Goat was the meat. Goats were tied up outside our rooms in the courtyard. These were slowly disappearing as the evening drew closer.

Pedro and I both finally got sim cards for our phones so it was great to be back online again. The internet here like everywhere for the last few months has been slow and not consistent.

The middle of the night is best. It suits me because it is daytime back in Australia.

This town is a place where the Turkana come for supplies, there are sheep and goats just freely roaming around the streets. Goats are real opportuninists some were seen eating cardboard and other seen separating food from plastic bags. The sheep are almost as well adapted to scavenging.

Once again in our hotel we had to use our own mosquito nets, those supplied were full of holes.

The locals said malaria is not such a huge problem here but no risks are being taken. I am going to use Coartem should I get the symptoms of malaria. Taking preventative malaria medicine for 3 months does not appeal to me.  

At dark the staff started up the generator, this roared until some late hour, this coupled with goats tethered close to the few trees in the yard, crying were the sounds that put me to sleep.

From here the asphalt starts.

 

 

 

 

25/4/2015  Kalokol to Lodwar

D62, T5, Av13.73, Max41, 40,337, 5,304

Fine, very hot and humid

Both of us had slept well, yesterday, fresh sliced bread was bought, what a treat. Tomatoes and onions were also purchased to make sandwiches with the smoked fish.

As said the asphalt started, a better description of the road would be gravel with some smooth patches. It was the worst kind of surface to ride on, as the meeting point of gravel and asphalt was a sharp step up or down. It was better in many instances just to ride on the gravel edges.

A few taxis were seen, lots of guys close to town on their Neelams and a few Turkana herders. We soon got into foothills. Here the country was like a mmonscape with a few trees. It was incredibly fry and rocky. No one was grazing animal out here. The heat saw to that. This crossing of the range went on fro a couple of hours. We then descended back onto the flats.

Bags of charcoal had been seen on the roadside in the hills where local had them out for sale.

The asphalt here in places was almost complete but did not stay that way fro long. More cyclists were seen carting enormous loads of wood on their bikes. This indicated we were getting close to town.

Pedro had arranged a warmshowers host in town so we met a friend of theirs at the local jicue bar on the way into town.

Before they arrived copius cold drinks were enjoyec and a chilled piece of watermelon. For the first time we saw powerlines in Kenya.

Even though Lodwar had more than 50,000 residents it is still only powered by a generator.

It was quite a ride out to Rhdas house outside of the main town. Earlier in the day we had met john her husband on the road. He was on hisy to do some missionary work up north on his Yamaha 175 trail bike .

At Rhodas place we set up the tents in her large clean sandy private yard.

She cooked us a great evening meal over charcoal. We both climbed into our tents.

We had made it to Lodwar during the short wet season of the year in Kenya. We had been incredibly lucky to make it from Omarate without being held up by rain. Had it come we could have been stuck there for days and even then struggle with wet muddy roads.

All this way a great relief.

25-30/4/2015 Lodwar, Nthn Kenya.

Africana Hotel

After two nights I moved to the Africana hotel, my back was still sore. I needed to be in a bed off the ground.

Lodwar is the capital of Turkana country. Many tribes people are seen in town wandering about buying things or just chatting on corners.

 The town has a nice feel about it and people are very friendly. Most clothing I own was washed in the ample water available at the hotel.

My room is tiny but has a ceiling fanwhich is sheer luxury. Lodwar is in a rain shadow and only gets 250mm or so of rain a year. It is very hot and dusty.

Whilst here a stove was made from two Coke cans, it uses alcohol. It will get me to Nairobi I hope.

New parts have been ordered from Australia.

John Weir from The Mountain and Adventure Centre in Jindabyne has been such a huge help to me.  If you need any high tech camping gear in Australia check these guys out on +61 2 6456 2922 or MountainAdventureCentre.com.au.

They are Hilleberg Tent dealers also.

Thanks again John.

The showers in the hotel are bucket versions where one has to fill a large plastic bowl with water, carry it to the showers. I use a water bottle cut in half to bail the water and pour it over myself.

I am quite used to this way of showering now. It is a great way to not waste water. I leave the shower every bit as clean as having had a shower with a tap that might use 50 to 100 litres.

We waste so much water at home.

Getting used to the unhygienic conditions here in Africa takes awhile to get used to.

Importantly for me, I am exposed to all manner of germs and bacteria and my health is great apart from the diarrhea that has now gone.

I now have the antibodies to fight most things that are found in these dirty places, which is important for long-term travel.

Central to this is drinking local water and not buying bottled water.

Firstly with the amount of water I drink it would send me broke and secondly if bottled water is drunk, everytime you drink local water there is a chance you may get sick.

“If the locals drink it, so do I”.

The road from here to Lokichar is more of the broken asphalt.

South of here the Pokot people are notorious for attacking vehicles heading to Kitale.

They attack trucks often shooting as they do it. Matt from Tullow told me one of his contractors got shot earlier in the week on this road.

Due to my back and the inherent risks from banditry on the road, a Landcriser has been booked to take me all the way to Kitale. For 2500 shillings, it is good value.

It is a dual cab with only four passengers, my bike will go in the tray at the rear.

Pedro has chosen to take an 8 seater, his bike will be stowed on the roof. It is 2000 shillings.

Again got is the main meat eaten here. Mangos are great value at 7c each, so many have been consumed.

Most restaurants use charcoal to cook on. A clothing iron using charcoal to heat it was seen on more than one occasion.

Acacia trees are the chosen species to make the charcoal which burns incredibly hot.

All through Egypt, Sudan and Ethiopia honey was used to sweeten my tea and other drinks. Here it is to expensive to use as a sweetener. So brown sugar is being used.

From here Pedro and I go our separate ways. He is heading to Uganda from Kitale and not going to Nairobi.

My two sons Ben and Callum, fly into Nairobi on the 22nd May.

 Together we are going to ride to Cape Town over the next 6 or 7 months.

This is going to be a very special thing for us guys to be doing.

They are bringing over a heap of supplies for me.

A new rear wheel, new tent, replacement stove parts to mention just a few. It is so much easier than trying to source these things here.

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Collecting water at Kalokol, the guys got 5 bob a 20L drum, they could carry 7 on their Neelam cycles
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two wheeled workhorse, Kenyan made.
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Dried and salted fish, many buyers come from the Congo to get these cheap fish from Lake Turkana, there are 5000 in a bundle.
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Smoked fish, so nice and huge woks for frying the fish.
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Another Neelam on the job, the tyres are solid rubber.
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Leaving Kalikol.
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Officially our last night together, it was such a good time having Pedro along in Ethiopia.
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Nile Perch at my hotel Lodwar. They were very heavy and the guy couldn't find the shutter on my camera.
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With the mango girls in Lodwar.
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My new stove built from 2 coke cans.
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