5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco
D51, T10.5, Av8.96, Max32, Tot15078, 5014
Overcast, sunny patches, extremely cold above 3000m
We had both enjoyed a good nights sleep.
Packing up early we knew there was a climb ahead all day to Cerro de Pasco, here is an excerpt from LP, Peru.
With its altitude-sickness-inducing height above sea level and its icy, rain-prone climate, this dizzyingly high altiplano mining settlement is never going to be a favorite traveler destination. First impressions however are still striking: houses and streets spread haphazardly around a gaping artificial hole in the bare hills several kilometers wide. The Spanish discovered silver here in the 17th century and this, along with other mineral wealth (see the boxed text), has made Cerro a lucrative Peruvian asset. It has also worked hard at image improvement recently and boasts decent hotels to take your mind off the cold and industrial clamor. Besides being the highest place of its size in the world, Cerro attracts the odd traveler as a springboard for visiting some of Peru’s most spectacular rock formations. If you are traveling by colectivo taxi around the altiplano it is also handy for picking up a connecting ride. The high, oxygen-poor altitude makes the town bitterly cold at night.
We had half packed and were boiling water, when disaster on four legs arrived at our camp. The owner of three cows had let them out for the day.
These three placid, inquisitive buggers decided they wanted to inspect our camp and just wandered on through dragging their tethering ropes.
One stood on my helmet, luckily her hoof slid off, then they wandered into where we were boiling water and one hoof came down within inches of the stove and boiling water. It was panic stations, I grabbed the stove and tossed it away. If the animals got frightened the situation would have deteriorated further.
Luckily, we had pretty much packed up the tents, cows and guy ropes would not be a good mix one could envisage.
The owner turned up and immediately started hurling rocks at them .
They moved on without damaging anything, we both couldn’t believe they moved on without fuss and we had not suffered any setbacks.
The cows were literally, as the saying goes on dairy farms of past. “come on girls”.
We were on the road by 0830, the climbing began immediately.
Though like all Peruvian roads it was gentle but always up.
Trucks were moving slowly up and those coming down were relying heavily on low gears, exhaust and wheel brakes, the smell of hot brakes was always present.
The temperature was pleasant for the first 10km.
Soon it began to fall. It was noticeable when stopping. We were riding strongly and in good spirits.
Stopping at Malauchaca, I went in to a fairly up market looking hotel come restaurant, here, on asking the woman said a Caldo de Gallina was 10s, she had to be joking though she wasn’t. My reaction was a surprised no and hasty retreat from the establishment.
A couple metres up the road we stopped at a little tienda and bought bread and bananas.
The owners were delightful, offering us hot coffee and having a good chat.
Mining in the area revolves around copper and zinc.
When we told them we were going to Cerro, in a gesture worthy of emotion, they offered us warm clothes thinking we had none. We were still dressed in shorts and light gear.
Deirdre did take the traditional had. I had no need for a jacket and another hat.
These kinds of gestures and kindness typify many interactions encountered on the road. They among many other occurrences provide inspiration that makes hill climbing somewhat easy.
Ever upwards, a truck was seen roadside, where the driver had put it into some trees to bring it to a stop due to break failure. Guys were unloading the cargo of fertilizer among other things.
The temp was now falling further. Further up the road, still in Malauchaca, school children were having a procession on the road, holding up traffic
They were in their way, protesting about the damage mining causes to the environment and the destruction of trees.
Further, up the road the secondary children were starting their protest.
It is so nice to see this awareness. The kerbing through the town was very elaborate with ramps, nature strips and footpaths.
I figured the mining companies had done this.
Sadly these kind of contributions to towns are just their passport to further environmental destruction. Their main concern is money making. If their locale is near communities, they make an effort.
Though, out of sight of most people, one could apply this saying when referring to them: “Talk to someone who gives a shit”.
Ecuadors rainforest is an example here, as is the black Rio Santo further north. As was the scenario with BP in the middle of the gulf.
Soon, we were above the tree line with altitude in the late 3000’s. It was now getting bitterly cold.
Stopping at a little roadside stall run by a delightful 10year old, Karen, we ate milk custard and had a few drinks.
All this was observed by Hans, the goose, he was very protective of young Karen.
We stopped further up the road where a few leaves were chewed.
I noticed a squeak on the bike, closer inspection revealed a modified bracket had brokern on the front racks, Deirdre was well ahead across a deep valley. Amazingly we could communicate over this large distance. It was soon fixed up and I caught her again.
We now rode close together.
She was getting worn out, big time.
She never fails to amaze me, this woman, great company, who is 60 and riding, always in good spirits so strongly day after day often in such trying conditions.
Further up we were both really doing it tough above the plus 3800m stopping every few hundred metres. Though asphalt made it alot easier.
Soon we arrived at the turnoff to Cerro de Pasco. Still a few km to go.
We stopped to take photos at the summit. We had made it, 51km up all day, without much to eat except for bananas and bread with a couple of milk custards. This is one reason we suffered I feel.
As soon as we started descending into town the realization of how cold it was hit us, stopping we donned all the warm clothing we could.
We stopped for hot chocolate and fresh deep fried pancakes. They were, oh so good after the days activities.
We really were trashed.
Deirdre was especially worn out, choosing just to sleep on the bed at the motel as soon as we were settled in the room.
It was an upstairs number, such a pain.
I had a couple of things to do in town , Deirdre slept. We then went out for soup.
Everyone in town was rugged up to the nines, it was like a ski village.
D51, T10.5, Av8.96, Max32, Tot15078, 5014
Overcast, sunny patches, extremely cold above 3000m
We had both enjoyed a good nights sleep.
Packing up early we knew there was a climb ahead all day to Cerro de Pasco, here is an excerpt from LP, Peru.
With its altitude-sickness-inducing height above sea level and its icy, rain-prone climate, this dizzyingly high altiplano mining settlement is never going to be a favorite traveler destination. First impressions however are still striking: houses and streets spread haphazardly around a gaping artificial hole in the bare hills several kilometers wide. The Spanish discovered silver here in the 17th century and this, along with other mineral wealth (see the boxed text), has made Cerro a lucrative Peruvian asset. It has also worked hard at image improvement recently and boasts decent hotels to take your mind off the cold and industrial clamor. Besides being the highest place of its size in the world, Cerro attracts the odd traveler as a springboard for visiting some of Peru’s most spectacular rock formations. If you are traveling by colectivo taxi around the altiplano it is also handy for picking up a connecting ride. The high, oxygen-poor altitude makes the town bitterly cold at night.
We had half packed and were boiling water, when disaster on four legs arrived at our camp. The owner of three cows had let them out for the day.
These three placid, inquisitive buggers decided they wanted to inspect our camp and just wandered on through dragging their tethering ropes.
One stood on my helmet, luckily her hoof slid off, then they wandered into where we were boiling water and one hoof came down within inches of the stove and boiling water. It was panic stations, I grabbed the stove and tossed it away. If the animals got frightened the situation would have deteriorated further.
Luckily, we had pretty much packed up the tents, cows and guy ropes would not be a good mix one could envisage.
The owner turned up and immediately started hurling rocks at them .
They moved on without damaging anything, we both couldn’t believe they moved on without fuss and we had not suffered any setbacks.
The cows were literally, as the saying goes on dairy farms of past. “come on girls”.
We were on the road by 0830, the climbing began immediately.
Though like all Peruvian roads it was gentle but always up.
Trucks were moving slowly up and those coming down were relying heavily on low gears, exhaust and wheel brakes, the smell of hot brakes was always present.
The temperature was pleasant for the first 10km.
Soon it began to fall. It was noticeable when stopping. We were riding strongly and in good spirits.
Stopping at Malauchaca, I went in to a fairly up market looking hotel come restaurant, here, on asking the woman said a Caldo de Gallina was 10s, she had to be joking though she wasn’t. My reaction was a surprised no and hasty retreat from the establishment.
A couple metres up the road we stopped at a little tienda and bought bread and bananas.
The owners were delightful, offering us hot coffee and having a good chat.
Mining in the area revolves around copper and zinc.
When we told them we were going to Cerro, in a gesture worthy of emotion, they offered us warm clothes thinking we had none. We were still dressed in shorts and light gear.
Deirdre did take the traditional had. I had no need for a jacket and another hat.
These kinds of gestures and kindness typify many interactions encountered on the road. They among many other occurrences provide inspiration that makes hill climbing somewhat easy.
Ever upwards, a truck was seen roadside, where the driver had put it into some trees to bring it to a stop due to break failure. Guys were unloading the cargo of fertilizer among other things.
The temp was now falling further. Further up the road, still in Malauchaca, school children were having a procession on the road, holding up traffic
They were in their way, protesting about the damage mining causes to the environment and the destruction of trees.
Further, up the road the secondary children were starting their protest.
It is so nice to see this awareness. The kerbing through the town was very elaborate with ramps, nature strips and footpaths.
I figured the mining companies had done this.
Sadly these kind of contributions to towns are just their passport to further environmental destruction. Their main concern is money making. If their locale is near communities, they make an effort.
Though, out of sight of most people, one could apply this saying when referring to them: “Talk to someone who gives a shit”.
Ecuadors rainforest is an example here, as is the black Rio Santo further north. As was the scenario with BP in the middle of the gulf.
Soon, we were above the tree line with altitude in the late 3000’s. It was now getting bitterly cold.
Stopping at a little roadside stall run by a delightful 10year old, Karen, we ate milk custard and had a few drinks.
All this was observed by Hans, the goose, he was very protective of young Karen.
We stopped further up the road where a few leaves were chewed.
I noticed a squeak on the bike, closer inspection revealed a modified bracket had brokern on the front racks, Deirdre was well ahead across a deep valley. Amazingly we could communicate over this large distance. It was soon fixed up and I caught her again.
We now rode close together.
She was getting worn out, big time.
She never fails to amaze me, this woman, great company, who is 60 and riding, always in good spirits so strongly day after day often in such trying conditions.
Further up we were both really doing it tough above the plus 3800m stopping every few hundred metres. Though asphalt made it alot easier.
Soon we arrived at the turnoff to Cerro de Pasco. Still a few km to go.
We stopped to take photos at the summit. We had made it, 51km up all day, without much to eat except for bananas and bread with a couple of milk custards. This is one reason we suffered I feel.
As soon as we started descending into town the realization of how cold it was hit us, stopping we donned all the warm clothing we could.
We stopped for hot chocolate and fresh deep fried pancakes. They were, oh so good after the days activities.
We really were trashed.
Deirdre was especially worn out, choosing just to sleep on the bed at the motel as soon as we were settled in the room.
It was an upstairs number, such a pain.
I had a couple of things to do in town , Deirdre slept. We then went out for soup.
Everyone in town was rugged up to the nines, it was like a ski village.
shoe overcovers, give me a break!! Even the dogs were scared
Her new hat, it goes with the blue jacket.
Hans and Karen, such a lovely kid, she spoke Spanish so clearly.
Cerro De Pasco, the Peruvian altiplano far in the background
Hot chocolate and fried pancakes, any comment on this food would be understated, after little to eat all day.
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Failed brakes and a few damaged trees, the driver was ok.
we take care of our environment protect the plants, because we need oxygen and like our environment, don't quote me on this.
Llamas being llamas. 4000m
Potatoes for every dish and cooking style, we bought yellow yams, boiled them and were delighted by their sweetness.
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Finally at Cerro De Pasco. Our last days riding together, we were both cold and worn out, though elated, from here it was a few km down to the city in the cauldron.
