9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT

Last night in Nova Xavantina on their brand new foot bridge.

9/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Canarana turnoff

D149, T9, Av19.37, Max51, 29861 4283

Hot, sunny and low humidity

Awaken your spirit to adventure; hold nothing back, learn to find ease in risk. Soon you will be home in a new rhythm, for your soul senses the world that awaits you.

John O’Donohue

Nice words from the beginning of Claire Dunns book, “My Year Without Matches”

Out to eat on my last night here, observations were made at the other tables in an ice creamery. Brazil really is a unique country. It is not unusual to see friends at a table with skin colours ranging from white through all the shades to dark. There are some very unique and attractive people here.

All this intermarriage between Africans, Portuguese and Europeans and the local people appears to have been such a social success here.

Importantly those observed radiated an individual naturalness and ease from among their groups.

Getting up early was an assurance of getting a good breakfast before everyone else helped themselves.

Plenty was eaten.

Most people around town were shocked to see their team so comprehensively beaten by Germany.

The sports channel was showing lots of footage with fans crying.

Some fans evidently went on a rampage wrecking property in some cities.

The road was more of the same, trucks and undulating land with cattle or crops occupying it. Occasionally, in the low spots some natural vegetation was still present. As soon as one got near this the bird life increased dramatically.

It is pleasant riding with gentle climbs and then back down again or at times almost flat except for a slight slope in my favour. The road had no shoulder and many places had a new 6 inch layer of asphalt so pulling off the road was almost impossible.

Once again all the truck drivers were great. Some even slowing right down to let an oncoming truck pass. There at times was not room for 3 of us.

I could hear them coming and would pull off the road where I could but keep riding in the rough.

When an oncoming truck was spotted a quick look back would determine my actions, no other vehicles and the road could be used.

Maintaining speed as a truck passes very close is so important, it allows me to keep a straight and minimises the draught effect..

Lunch was enjoyed at Agua Boa. Not before a top up and good rinse down was had at a gas station at one of their iced water dispensers.

An hour was spent here re hydrating and eating.

An ice cream was enjoyed at Serra Dourada.

I feel not many cyclists have passed through here as everyone is asking questions.

Though with the road conditions it is not hard to see why.

For me it is just part of a bigger journey.

Here the water was topped up and camping sites were sought. At the turnoff to Canarana there was a group of trees with a large old shed behind them. The camp was set up behind the shed in such a spot that my light could be used without attracting attention. Soup and a few hot drinks were enjoyed.

The moon is nearly full so it was quite a bright evening.

Over a coffee, I sat and looked out over the vast ploughed field behind the shed.

It had just come out of soy beans, some old dry plants were still in the ground near me.

Gazing out across the moon light ochre coloured expanse. It is hard to believe that all this land was once heavily vegetated in medium height trees and bush.

There are really only about four plants that ever grow here now. Maize, cotton, soya beans and sugar where possible.

The night was silent except for the odd truck passing in the background. The night was balmy and clear. Thankfully insect free. Such was the similarity of the environment.

10/7/2014 Turnoff to 20km past Querencia turnoff

D128, T9, Av20.42, Max 48, 29989, 4411

Hot, fine

Up before the sun had risen across the field, the tent was condensation free, such is the dryness of the air.

Packed and on the road by 0800.

It was decided to ride in my boxer shorts and tee shirt. Without my shorts on it frees up my legs considerably.

Not far down the road all my bottles were topped up at a Lanchonette.

The shoulder on the road had now got a bit larger, truck numbers were also thinning out.

With not so many trucks it was worth waving at a few. They always respond.

Come 1200, some 60km had been ridden. An old gas station and loja were stopped at, here cold drinks nad more chilled water was obtained. It was 30 km to Riberao Cascalheira.

By the time I got there I was starving and totally worn out, having ridden 90km by 1330.

A huge buffet meal was enjoyed .

The nights water supply was loaded, by the time I left it was after 1500. Riding was a slow process for the first 10km on a full stomach, but this slowly burnt off and things were back to normal .

The surface is now quite rough, the increased rolling resistance is really noticeably especially on the slight inclines and descents.

Deciding to find a camp before dark, some bush was located near a silo complex.

It was dry bush with numerous litter on the forest floor.

A campsite well off the road was found.

Whilst setting up I could hear animals approaching through the dense bush.

They were very noisy breaking sticks and rustling small bushes.

They came across me and let out a grunt not unlike a dog and took off.

I did not identify them .

Anyway half an hour later they all came back. I could not see them clearly, only identifying them about the size of big dogs,

I yelled at them and walked after them with the torch.

What bothers me is they were not identified.

Given this, I am a little concerned about them.

Possibly they are wild dogs which could be a problem, should they return in the night.

In saying this, the fact that they were making so much noise in the bush makes me think they could be hoofed animals, maybe pigs or Capavari.

That they came back throws doubt on this.

Thinking about this situation, firstly it is going to make sleeping difficult as I am a little concerned. Secondly, i wasn,t to keen on fending off a pack of feral dogs.

There is a three trunked tree right next to my tent.

I will climb this should I need to. A long thin trunk of a sapling was cut down and fashioned into a spear if needed.

I am probably over reacting but it makes me feel more comfortable. At least I have a plan.

That they might be dogs is a problem, dogs in groups are like gangs amongst humans. They find strength in numbers, trouble and mischief are never far away.

No native animals here are an issue in this part of Mato Grosso as far I know

Tonight I will sleep with no tarp on the tent so I can cast a light into the surrounding bush if need be, without having to leave my bed.

The last thing I wanted to do was sleep with one ear on alert. At least nothing can approach without making a noise due to all the leaves and dry sticks on the ground.

Penning these two entries here, will also help the night pass.

11/7/2014 Queréncia turnoff to night time camp, gravel road

D124, T12, Av16.14, Max52, 30,133 4,535

Another hot dry day

Well, needless to say, a shitty sleep was not enjoyed. Some sleep was had between 11 and 1 and then a bit early morning.

The imminent attack never happened, infact, the bush was dead quiet all night except for some owls calling and the odd leaf falling to the ground.
Speaking with people they were possibly Capavari.

The problem came from another quarter, that of ticks or as they are called here, Carrapatos.

An irritation above my eyebrow during the night turned out to be a large tick just getting its jaws into me.

It was difficult arising, I felt tired getting up, not good for what lay ahead.

Looking back at where I had camped, once 7km from the spot. It was a large expanse of natural bush so it provided ample habitat for whatever chanced upon me.

A couple of km on, another cyclist was seen coming my way. Gilberto was another one of these long-term Brasilero cyclists, he had been on the road for 20 years.

We had a bit of a yarn, and went our ways, he told me the gravel was heavily corrugated.

His bike had no gearing and he was riding in thongs, both observations probably explain part of the time he has been on the road. He knew the other Brasileiro I had met. Between the two of them that 55yrs on the road!

Some 20km down the road drinks were enjoyed at Fazenda Malu, or just past there. Many of these little Lanchonettes have wifi which is great, here a few pics are sometimes posted on Instagram.

At Villa Campana, a huge buffet was enjoyed with some truck drivers, they are the best people to ask about distances and road conditions.

Knowing now there was 120km gravel ahead and also another lanchonette, at its commencement. Upon arriving, I drank heaps of chilled water, soaked my shirt and hat and topped up on all water containers.

This knowledge also saw me wearing my runners for the first times in a couple of months.

Once on the gravel an ochre dust was never far away. In the light winds when a truck or car was encountered it hung.

It was not to bad . Help was given to a truck driver who lost all sorts of stuff scattered on the road from one of his storage boxes.

Some 10km into the gravel and the corrugations started. These were as bad as any encountered. You had to ride them, as they were the only solid surface on the road.

Had my front rack not been repaired in Nova Xavantina, it would not have survived this battering.

The country had now changed from cropping to mainly cattle country, it is either one or the other, there are only small patches of natural vegetation between.

Another little loja was stopped at for a can of coke and the owner kindly topped up all my bottles with icy cold water.

I was hoping to get to Confreza to see the world cup final. Hoping that Argentina would win.

There were still plenty of trucks on the road but they were well spaced thankfully. The road was good and wide. There was plenty of room for all.

About 1530, I pulled into a shady spot secluded from passing traffic, the decision had been made to ride into the night. There was a full moon.

The hammock was unpacked and slung between two trees and a sleep was enjoyed for an hour, this was followed by a coffee and biscuits.

The moon was huge in the eastern sky, parrots were squawking as they were flying home to roost.

Near dark, I was ready to move on. It was a magic evening, dead calm and well defined with moonlight.

Being still, the dust did hang a bit after a vehicle was encountered. My neck warmer helped alleviate its inhalation to some extent.

This section of road was corrugated like roofing iron. There was no escape. Holding the handle bars lightly was the only way to stop my hands going numb.

It was so bad that I was keeping up with trucks and in one case over took one

The energy required for my progress is a bit more than a big toe sitting on an accelerator. . He passed me not far on.

Trucks coming towards me sounded like someone dragging a pile of scrap metal down the road. The noise especially unladen livestock semis was just a heap of banging metal.

My egghead light gave me great vision. So good, the road was well defined 15m infront of me. Te light cast shadows over the bumps so that aided vision even more.

There were fires burning on the roadside in some places.

About 2030 my energy was expended, a pack of biscuits, and an energy gel were eaten this helped me keep riding till 2200.

I had covered 30km, it was great to have ridden such a rough piece of road in the coolness of the night.

A track off the road was found. This had to be followed for half a kilometre to be free the air from the dust of the still passing trucks.

Here the hammock was used for the first time. It is great for a quick set up.

The area had all been burnt recently, there was ash all over the ground.

The moon light made it easy to see.

It was quite cold, as the night wore on I had to put my raincoat and pants on to keep warm in the hammock.

It is a Hennesey hammock for those interested. It comes with a built in fly and mosquito net. A brilliant piece of gear.

12/7/2014 Near Alto boa Vista turnoff to Posto Do Mata at Luciara turnoff

Data lost in cyberspace

Fine 30+

Another pretty ordinary nights sleep had been had. My water was low, so just a coffee and a can of Tuna and chopped onion were had for breakfast.

Anything I had put on the ground had black ash on it.

I was filthy, covered in red dust and the ash. Back on the road, the need to get water was paramount.

Luckily a driver in an old Merc stopped. He asked me if I wanted a lift. I politely declined and asked if he had water. He had none, by this time a semi had stopped with us, the driver had plenty of icy water. It was so good and perfectly timed.

About accepting lifts:

For me .It’s like over extending yourself with a mortgage. It is great at the time but will impact on you every day thereafter.

You will always be looking for a ride when the going gets tough, or a loan if you can’t afford that holiday.

It will get to a point where you are always looking for a lift or a loan.

Both offer little reward coupled with plenty of burden long after the pleasures are gone.

Taking a lift for me will only occur, if the situation is posing a health issue or to eliminate danger.

Soon upon the Fazenda Rio Preto, here a huge meal was enjoyed and lots of refreshments. Many of the younger male staff at the huge 35,00ha property were heading into Confreza for the weekend on their motos.

They had a TV here, I even thought about camping and watching the final here.

Riding on the road improved. Though, I was reasonably physically stressed but still in control of the situation, the time had come to get into harmony with my predicament from a mental aspect.

I was trying to get to Confresa to watch the football final. About now i was having doubts as to my ability to do this.

The moment I put this thought aside, the ride suddenly became so much more enjoyable. I had time to look at the bush, stop and view wetlands and take photos of whatever caught my eye. I had again become aware of all around me and the beauty it had to offer.

Just putting the thought of having to be somewhere at a certain time, had transformed this section of the passage into somewhat of a burden.

Relating this to most peoples’ lives. It is such a gift to have this time. I had seen this aspect in its purest form. Money wasn’t involved or other people, it was just myself and a concept.

My situation unlike most peoples, had allowed me to turn it into something enjoyable.

Maybe someday, when you are in a hurry to get somewhere, just pull over and see if you can find something interesting in the roadside vegetation, maybe a flower or some ants doing what they do, most things really can wait.

Many people my age have no idea of this concept, they are often prisoners of their own success.

In many respects, this concept has enabled me to continue enjoying cycling in trying conditions for extended periods.

I had a glimpse of what the Mato Grosso must have really been like through this stretch of road when the burden of time was lifted from my already heavy bike.

The lush bush was heavy with vines, palms and an emergent canopy. Though it was incredibly hot and dry, there was water in many places.

This road had just pushed straight though it, at one point a deep cutting was passed. The red soil was all of 10m deep .

Pushing on in a great frame of mind, another lanchonette was arrived at. Icy water was drank, clothes soaked and a large fanta drank.

A few km from here in the searing mid afternoon heat, a stop was made to bathe my feet in a roadside pond come creek.

Here in the talcum powder like dust on the side of the road, bliss was found. The water felt so good. There were fish swimming in the turquoise water. A couple of the species were ones we buy for fresh water aquariums back home. Tetras, I think?

I am now wearing a peak hat with flaps down to my neck and over my ears. The afternoon sun is giving me a hard time with my left side of my face getting quite burnt.

Always heading north creates this situation.

My neck tube is now protecting my whole face and ears, also keeping the dust out.

I have never used sun bloc except in lip balms. Anyway, with the perspiration always being wiped off, it would not last long.

Reading the chemical makeup of its composition, I feel physical protection is the better option.

It is a bit like people who don’t want to eat natural sugar to sweeten coffee for example, but will gladly intake a chemical cocktail of manmade sweeteners.

“ I’ll have a burger and a Diet Coke,please!!?

From here, the woman told me it was 20km to the end of the asphalt.

Seeing the asphalt up ahead was like a mirage, only as you got closer it became real.

Oh! It was so nice to be on the smooth black top.

Earphones in and just cruising. These are the rewards that you are robbed of when sitting in a vehicle having accepted a lift.

Last night in my hammock with my long pants on the zip had dug into my bum, all this bumping about had broken the skin, it was bloody painful.

This had happened before, the only way to sort it out is keep it dry, not ride and wait for it to heal .This will be done in Confresa, once again, it is nice to have time as an ally not an enemy.

Fifteen km into the asphalt, I needed more water. A posto was seen at the turnoff to Luciara.

I was a bus stop for Xavante buses. They had water here and a toilet come shower. Taking my shoes off a shower was had fully clothed.

The shower floor looked like a silt laden river. Another tick was found attached in my groin area.

I bought a beer and had a yarn with the owners, we understood most things. I sat down and started watching the football. They said I could camp out the back.

I was set up before dark.

The woman came over to see if I wanted dinner with them.

My first home cooked meal here in Brasil. It was great and they had these picked onions, they were divine.

It was so nice to sleep easy on private property for a change.

The fly was not used on the tent, the air is so dry here, condensation is not a problem.

13/7/2014 Posto de Mata to Confreza

D48, T6, Av18.34, Max46 30,236 4713 ( I remember the figure of 129km yesterday)

Slight nor easter, hot, dry

A great nights sleep was had.

Upon getting up the young guy in the house was taking a small pig from a bag. He held it to the ground and pushed a long knife into its heart, the sand took on a red hue near the animals chest. It squealed for a time and then suddenly became food rather than a living animal.

In no hurry to leave, we chatted for awhile.

I thanked them at length for their hospitality and meandered off.

All was good, the footy could be watch and there was only a few hours to do the 50km to Confreza on the flat road.

Once there, like most towns the entrance was a mix of businesses servicing trucks.

Ag related businesses were scattered amongst them .

It took an hour ro find a suitable hotel. The Anapolis was found. They had a religious group staying who said I could eat with them.

The footy was watched in the comfort of a lounge with the owners. For me it was disappointing not to see Argentina win. Germany always looked dangerous during the game.

Washing was done. A couple of huge ice creams were eaten after dinner.

The heat now is really dominant in the days proceedings.

I am now at 10 degrees 39 minutes of latitude, Cape York in Australia is 10 degrees 41 minutes. The northern most point in Australia.

Buenos Aires lattitude is 34 degrees 35 minutes the equivalent location in Australia is about 480 km north of Wilsons Promontory.

My room is great, two single beds, one for me one for gear and AC. With internet.

Two nights were booked.

The Ciprol, now nearly finished, has sorted the phlegm problem out. Interestingly, it is the first line of treatment from an antibiotic point of view for the American Peace Corps people here in South America. It has worked for me.