browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
Picture
South of Trujillo, on the Pan Am, with plenty of water onboard.
Picture
A great camp
Picture
the best rest area we could find, at least chairs were provided
Picture
Lodgings Chuquicara, thats the courtesy bus outside. The owner was like all people encountered , a nice guy.
Picture
Insignificance, comes to mind.
Picture
With added water
Picture
The girl in the red was such a gem, so friendly, enthusiastic and informative. At Tanguche
Picture
This dog followed us and its owner, also on a bike for sometime on the Pan Am, he was keeping up no worries at 25km.
Picture
Typical coal extraction, providing access to trucks, the Rio Santa is in the foreground. Note the colour.
23/5/2013 Trujillo to a turn off 15k south of Puente Chao

D92, T7, Av13.25, Max 39, Tot14379, 4314

Fine, 30, cool sth westerlies


Deirdre and I were late getting away, I feel here I can safely blame Lujo. It was no big deal, he had Deirdre s bike locked up after replacing the cones in the axles.

We took a few photos and said goodbye to the other cyclists staying there.

Lujo got his daily exercise escorting us to the main road south.

It had been a great time in Trujillo.

Soon as we got out of the city limits, desert like conditions on both sides of the highway prevailed. What a harsh environment. Some satellite towns were hanging onto to each grain of sand, maintaining their existence.

I had left Trujillo with diarrhea, its grip or lack thereof within got me about 30km into the trip. Luckily, sugar cane delivered me from full view from the highway.

It was quite amazing what the Peruanos have done here in the desert, sugarcane, avocados and many other tree crops were thriving in huge plantations on both sides of the road.

The terrain was was largely flat and easy going, though temps were in the low 30’s it was unnoticeable.

It was a pleasure to be riding with Deirdre again, she is easy to get on with. An unspoken ease exists.

Knowing we were going to be camping tonight, we stocked up a few supplies in Puente Chao.

Fifteen km south of here we turned off onto a gravel road. At the guard post we stocked up on water from the attendant. It was so kind of him to let us help ourselves from his large blue bottle.

We headed into this brown, dry, rocky world for about 4km. By now it was 1630, time to look for a camp.

Coming across a cluster of concrete walls standing in the middle of nowhere, though obviously related to the irrigation canal that ran beneath the road nearby.

There was a track that led up to an elevated position. Deirdre looked after the bikes whilst I went to investigate. We were truly in luck, below me was a 5mx5mx 2.5m open concrete tank type enclosure, that may have once been used to hold tar to line the concrete canals.

This was camp for the night, out of the wind, obscured from the road and with a smooth bedding surface in an otherwise shattered rock environment.

By now the diarrhea had become a preoccupation. The last part of the ride was energy sapping, even though it was flat road.

Our camp was like a desert bunker and every hour I had to involuntarily venture forth into hostile territory to lay a booby trap. At least there was plenty of scope for not duplicating their positioning.

I was now very weak, no nourishment had been taken from my food all day. Even though we ate well in Puente Chao.

It was a pleasure to see the sun setting over to the west and the Pan American, a road we were glad to have departed.

We watched a movie, Deirdre slept, whilst most of my night was spend putting thongs on and scaling the side of our refuge to take up a position best suited to a chair.

Toilet paper glowed in the moonlight as it rode the fresh breeze, this environment would soon see its biodegradable demise.

At least, a full moon was in the making, the surrounding landscape took on a hue, that of more than just silhouettes. It made this cyclic chore half bearable.

The westerlies still blew, though not cold.







24/5/2013 Bunker to Chuquicara

D56, T4/9, Av13.6, Max35 Tot14434, 4370

It had been a hard night to say the least, arising, energy levels were at an ebb. Though knowing I had to eat. Deirdre had porridge and raisins, that, boiled eggs and coffee was eaten though not fully enjoyed.

My first warning to her was tread carefully, we got some good laughs from my misfortune.

Packing up and lifting all the gear and bikes from our retreat we headed off down the flat but very rough gravel road winding through a moonscape, offering vistas that had the power to take my mind off my health.

Every 5km, a compulsory stop was made. Deirdre understood,Peter had tried to ride in this condition but had been unable to eat. It was his undoing.

Food, water and hope were my only exits from this condition, which like cold and seasickness can leave one not really caring what happens.

One thing in our favour as the day wore on was strong tailwinds out of the west.

We enjoyed lunch in amongst a heap of boulders roadside, that of coffee, tuna, crackers and bread.

During lunch on filling my water bottle, a bright green, very much alive algae was seen growing all around the neck and lid of my water bottle. Shit, maybe this was it.

We were quietly confident. Water was boiled and it was immersed for sometime. In hindsight I had been a bit loose yonder for a week or two. I had no chance if this was the problem, water from here was consumed all day everyday on the road.

We had been following the Rio Santa most of the day, sadly this river runs almost black, there is a ton of coal in the ranges throughout its length. Those gathering it have concerns other than the environment it would appear.

The river could be heard all day as its surface was broken by rocks in its passage. It is so fortunate that there is so much water here, many small tributaries were running into it. Some were crystal clear, it was so sad to see their purity immediately obliterated by the Santa.

Millions of dollars have been spent in this environment of mostly just shattered rock mountains, where only a few cacti had been able to live comfortably in it without an artificial water supply.

Huge concrete irrigation channels were seen running roadside. To think that just the average rock here could not even be moved by a human, mans ability to build machinery that can work this land. There is not even any soil here!!! Just sharp bloody huge rocks and some smooth where water in the past had been.

Mining tracks were seen traversing the most steepest mountains, tracks taking people to search for gold and coal.

Late afternoon we were being pushed along by a brisk westerly.

We stopped at  Tanguche, the girls told us Kate had been through a few days prior, she is one person they would remember by name.

If this and the relatively flat road were not present I would have been at a standstill.

I was getting a bit concerned about it all.

We arrived at Chuquicara at about 1600 and bumped into some Peace Corps guys who had ridden from Caraz. They had booked the last room at the gas station.

We found other accommodation across the road.

Now this was a true desert town, one street, bordered by a rock cliff one side and the gorge of the Santa on the other. Buildings were mostly mud brick, a colour that of the little soil found here, a colour that flowed into the environment.

All this was cacooned in the most beautiful of desert blue skies. Woman sold oranges, the few trucks passing through stopped at the two restaurants.

Our room was was a budget affair, two beds, a couple of blankets, the owner showed us the loo. We had a great choice of rocks to shit behind at the rear of the building.

He and I laughed, I had  said we were happy with a look on my face that conveyed an ease with the situation.

I slept for an hour before dinner.

These people are practical, their lives revolve around things other than toilets, anyone turning up here expecting something else would need to seriously consider their overnight itinerary.

Me, I was totally used to ablutions outside the confines of walls, Deirdre, not quite so, though no choice was on offer. Our room had no power and a big hole in the wall by the door. No problems with locking the key inside here.

We enjoyed tea with the two peace Corp guys. They are always interesting people, people who in the early parts of their lives are givers and helpers.

We spoke about the corps policy on diarrhea, they are told after three days to take Ciprofloxacin.

Luckily Deirdres doctor had given her some, so one tab was taken before bed, though not before finding a suitable rock out the back of the motel.

The evenings are very comfortable, not cold nor to hot. Needless to say our room was well ventilated, thankfully insects were few at night.

We are both hoping that a clean water bottle and the Cipro will beat the runs.

 

 

 

 

24/5/2013 Chuquicara to Yuratmarca

D53, T4.5/9, Av11.09, Max35, Tot14488, 4423

Fine 31°, strong westerlies


Waking up after just the best nights sleep without having to visit the rear of the lodgings.

The sandflies were atrocious early morning, ankles and legs their landing strips, my legs were checkered after they had finished.

Feeling better and actually going to the toilet only to urinate, my enthusiasm had returned, we were both wrapped. Another tab was taken.

Leaving town without eating too much, except for a few boiled eggs and coffee. The road took us deeper into this rocky world of mountains, a black river and the visible seams that made it so.

We bumped into two other cyclists I met at Trujillo, an Argentinian and French guy, stopping for a chat, they were heading the same way as us.

There were many shutes and conveyors that fed coal to the roadside and into waiting trucks, though none appeared active. Their aftermath was a black and filthy dust in their vicinity.

Wherever water could be gravity fed, people were living, so common place here in Peru so far in these harsh environments, whether they be steep or arid.

It was so nice to be feeling half normal, though still weak. Really as said before had the road been steep, I would have been unable to cope with the effort required. It was great to have company.

Telling Deirdre if she wasn’t with me I may not have left Chuquicara.

The scenery just kept getting more rewarding, with huge rock formations half way up a mountain twisted and shaped with heat from eons ago.

The river continued to roar as it raced west to water crops and finally discharge its lifeless water into the pacific at Chimbote.

Further upstream the water colour changed to ochre, maybe the coal pollution had lessened?
We stopped to wash and relax  at a small crystal clear stream on the roadside, it felt so nice on our dusty dry skin.

Riding was difficult on the road surface, that of loose rocks, loose dust and worse of all medium sized rocks half buried. Believe me you felt each and every one.

An email from Kate, relayed that her padded pants, had seen the light of day, all day enroute.

At Huaruchiri we stopped for lunch and caught up with the other two guys, we all ate well here and rested for an hour or more.

Me, most of that time was spent eating oranges, drinking coke, chatting  and loading water securely.

Riding on and coming to a bridge where some engineers were assessing it, a truck was parked awaiting passage. The guys were carrying a brand new rock drill worth 1 million dollars, it was being delivered to begin exploration for gold in the mountains.

We had already passed through some tunnels, these were dodgey affairs, one way and some really dark, it was easy to get disorientated inside.

Nearing 1400 we were both getting worn out, the last part of the road climbed up to the pueblito of Yuracmarca.

 A farmer was asked if we could camp on his property, it was all good. We had water and a brilliant 360° vista of the Andes under the light an almost full moon.

A moon that revealed another side of these huge, barren, rock laden formations that had been our company since leaving the Pan Am.

We both looked at each other and said “Hey, here we are riding pushbikes through the Andes in Peru, sharing this part of the world with these lovely, friendly people who call this subtly beautiful world home.

Sometimes you really have to have a reality check. This is our reality. Everyone encountered here in the mountains makes life on a pushbike so easy.

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Road building, the Peruanos can take you anywhere on relatively level roads
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Lunch at Huarachiri with the other guys
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Third nights camp on a property at Yuracmarca
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Typical tunnel scene, some thirty were ridden through, most short and all one way.
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This formation was striking, with all the fractured rock and this arc. Its hard to imagine the forces and randomness here in the past.
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Typical, though not occupied dwelling.
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What water can do here.
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Turning back was not an option
25/52013,Yuratmarca to Caraz

D53, T8, Av12, Tot14541, 4476

Fine, 30°, westerlies and crystal clear glary sunlight


Rising early to clear mountain air and the ever present blue sky, porridge tea and coffee were enjoyed. I thanked the owner and we moved on into town for a bigger breakfast.

Again, the road kept following the Rio Santo. The scenery continued to amaze us. We bumped into the other guys who had camped in the town park.

We were now having to ride through many more tunnels, eating dust all the way. Almost all traffic on the road was mine related.

The dry air and the dust required we drank continuously and chewed gum to keep our mouths moist.

Really, it was very easy riding, gentle slopes and great scenery. The road surface was the only detraction.

We stopped for lunch of soup, coffee, boiled eggs and biscuits by the river, next to a power station. Very romantic I might add.

Rounding a bend some 5km on we unexpectedly hit asphalt, what a pleasure.

Good time was made, this saw us arrive in Caraz at 1630 hours. The hostal Sauna Quespisicia was booked. A luxurious affair. There was hot water aplenty.

My tent was washed as it had got a bit of mould on the inner. We both washed clothes and relaxed before heading out for dinner.

Our first snow capped peak was seen to the east of town, that of Huandoy. The next week will see us climb to 4800m, with this ascent snow will increasingly become familiar.

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Our first glimpse of snow, here in caraz. Mount Huandoy, or some of it east of town.
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Dry in the foreground, a combination of that and wet behind.
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