5/4/2013 Angas to Soldados
D23.8, T3.16Av7.27, max27, Tot12502, 2358
Fine, with cloud moving in, 15-20°C
Having had a good nights sleep, though waking up early, it was dark and chilly, coffee was made and a great omelet with eggs, onion and tomato with chilli flakes and garlic was devoured.
A local wandered past, he seemed unperturbed at my presence, we exchanged greetings, he was off to work.
Packing was done, the place was left as found and a few photos taken. The clouds were way down in the valley. The sky was a dark blue.
As soon as I got back up to the road, the thin air was impacting on my breathing. I rode for a short while, like a few hundred metres and when I stopped dizziness and blurred vision overcame me.
These sensations soon subsided, walking the bike was much easier and almost achieving the same results from a progress point of view.
The small creek was followed initially, there were small houses of all shapes and materials located just below the road and below them was the stream. They were little weekend getaways for fisherman or those that just enjoyed it out here.
I had a length of nylon and a couple of small lures, so when a cottage close to the road was seen with easy access, the bike was wheeled in out of site of the road.
It was a good opportunity to try and catch a trout.
The water in the small stream was clear and very cold. No trout were prepared to climb onto my lure. It was a chance to wash my sandals in the stream as I wandered about in its cooling waters.
It was worth a try.
The road was steadily climbing, with switchbacks due to the steepness of the terrain.
This section of road was taking me from 3000m to the pass some 1100m higher.
For sometime, little dark coloured hummingbirds were everywhere, though you had to look closely to see their frantic activities.
The scenery was absolutely overcoming due to my slow pace, plants were observed, as was the fact that the stones up here were smooth from wear from water many millions of years ago I guessed.
Further up the vegetation changed from small trees to more of a heath like alpine environment, the hummingbirds were no longer present.
Every fifty metres now I was stopping to get my breath back. Pushing 70kgs up here with loose stones on the road was very difficult, each foot placement had to find a solid rock or less than loose surface to aid forward movement.
If the guys had not given me a lift to Angas this part of the road may not have been passed for at least another couple of days.
A can of sardines was enjoyed at one point.
Three vehicles passed by, each stopped to see if I was ok, and offered a lift.
One driver offered to take me all the way to Cuenca, an hour away!
Really, I was fine. The scenery and the presence in this special place was for me really only truly appreciated outside a vehicle. On foot!!!
People told me it was 20 minutes to the top in a car, that was about three hours more I figured.
As the altitude increased the vegetation kept changing, still higher it gave way to mosses and tussock grass. There were tarns everywhere and small streams in every gully running down from the tops. Once at the foot of the slopes the small streams meandered almost out of site amongst the tussocks and other vegetation.
The day remained fine, though clouds would close in every now and then.
Finally reaching the top had taken me 6hrs to do 11kms. From here it was possible to ride, though still having to stop every couple of hundred metres.
Up here it was literally like riding a bike 300m higher than Mount Cook in New Zealand or nearly double the height of Mount Kosciusko in Australia.
Once the crest in the saddle was reached things leveled out a bit. There were more small tarns scattered across the landscape, another brief try at catching a trout was enjoyed.
A creek crossed the road at one point, there I had to take my socks and shoes off to ford it. It was a welcome break in the passage.
The vegetation started to change as I started heading down again, closer to Soldados, trees again became part of the landscape, as did agriculture, cows and potatoes growing two notable activities.
The road though downhill had to be negotiated with concentration, there were large potholes located randomly and water channels everywhere, it was not a good time or place to come off.
At Soldados there was a boom across the road, this marked the entrance to the Cajas National Park.
The ranger told me, a year ago he saw another touring cyclist come through.
Arriving in the town, a snack was enjoyed in the little tienda, the lady said I could camp in the school grounds above the river.
Lentils, tomato, onion, pasta, tuna and chilli was enjoyed for tea
Another fish was had before dark, to no avail.
The sound of the river soon put me to sleep.
D23.8, T3.16Av7.27, max27, Tot12502, 2358
Fine, with cloud moving in, 15-20°C
Having had a good nights sleep, though waking up early, it was dark and chilly, coffee was made and a great omelet with eggs, onion and tomato with chilli flakes and garlic was devoured.
A local wandered past, he seemed unperturbed at my presence, we exchanged greetings, he was off to work.
Packing was done, the place was left as found and a few photos taken. The clouds were way down in the valley. The sky was a dark blue.
As soon as I got back up to the road, the thin air was impacting on my breathing. I rode for a short while, like a few hundred metres and when I stopped dizziness and blurred vision overcame me.
These sensations soon subsided, walking the bike was much easier and almost achieving the same results from a progress point of view.
The small creek was followed initially, there were small houses of all shapes and materials located just below the road and below them was the stream. They were little weekend getaways for fisherman or those that just enjoyed it out here.
I had a length of nylon and a couple of small lures, so when a cottage close to the road was seen with easy access, the bike was wheeled in out of site of the road.
It was a good opportunity to try and catch a trout.
The water in the small stream was clear and very cold. No trout were prepared to climb onto my lure. It was a chance to wash my sandals in the stream as I wandered about in its cooling waters.
It was worth a try.
The road was steadily climbing, with switchbacks due to the steepness of the terrain.
This section of road was taking me from 3000m to the pass some 1100m higher.
For sometime, little dark coloured hummingbirds were everywhere, though you had to look closely to see their frantic activities.
The scenery was absolutely overcoming due to my slow pace, plants were observed, as was the fact that the stones up here were smooth from wear from water many millions of years ago I guessed.
Further up the vegetation changed from small trees to more of a heath like alpine environment, the hummingbirds were no longer present.
Every fifty metres now I was stopping to get my breath back. Pushing 70kgs up here with loose stones on the road was very difficult, each foot placement had to find a solid rock or less than loose surface to aid forward movement.
If the guys had not given me a lift to Angas this part of the road may not have been passed for at least another couple of days.
A can of sardines was enjoyed at one point.
Three vehicles passed by, each stopped to see if I was ok, and offered a lift.
One driver offered to take me all the way to Cuenca, an hour away!
Really, I was fine. The scenery and the presence in this special place was for me really only truly appreciated outside a vehicle. On foot!!!
People told me it was 20 minutes to the top in a car, that was about three hours more I figured.
As the altitude increased the vegetation kept changing, still higher it gave way to mosses and tussock grass. There were tarns everywhere and small streams in every gully running down from the tops. Once at the foot of the slopes the small streams meandered almost out of site amongst the tussocks and other vegetation.
The day remained fine, though clouds would close in every now and then.
Finally reaching the top had taken me 6hrs to do 11kms. From here it was possible to ride, though still having to stop every couple of hundred metres.
Up here it was literally like riding a bike 300m higher than Mount Cook in New Zealand or nearly double the height of Mount Kosciusko in Australia.
Once the crest in the saddle was reached things leveled out a bit. There were more small tarns scattered across the landscape, another brief try at catching a trout was enjoyed.
A creek crossed the road at one point, there I had to take my socks and shoes off to ford it. It was a welcome break in the passage.
The vegetation started to change as I started heading down again, closer to Soldados, trees again became part of the landscape, as did agriculture, cows and potatoes growing two notable activities.
The road though downhill had to be negotiated with concentration, there were large potholes located randomly and water channels everywhere, it was not a good time or place to come off.
At Soldados there was a boom across the road, this marked the entrance to the Cajas National Park.
The ranger told me, a year ago he saw another touring cyclist come through.
Arriving in the town, a snack was enjoyed in the little tienda, the lady said I could camp in the school grounds above the river.
Lentils, tomato, onion, pasta, tuna and chilli was enjoyed for tea
Another fish was had before dark, to no avail.
The sound of the river soon put me to sleep.
Toi Toi was common at one point
This little religious building was on the shores of a sizeable lake.
Closer to Soldados, a weekender.
Soldados in the valley below
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A fish was had in the stream below this little cottage.
The top of the saddle was in sight.
The local bus uses this road.
A potato crop and pine plantation at 3400m near Soldados
Camp for the night overlooking the river Yununcay that runs all the way through Quenca
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