browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
11/1/2015 Asyut to El Balyana

45 km riding, Av 20, 277

100km in police vehicles

I was a bit excited waking up knowing the police were not going to be waiting for me in the lobby.

My skills at wheeling a fully loaded bike down three or four flights of stairs are getting better each morning.

Finding a ground level hotel here has not been possible so far.

As to taking my bike into the room, if they won’t let me, they are told that I am unable to sleep unless it is the room. This line works on almost all occasions.

The highway was easily found. Though entering it was done on a ramp against traffic.

There were no police in sight.

The temperature had warmed up considerably, my raincoat was stowed in the front pannier with the neoprene gloves.

This was more like it! It was the same as usual, the road was an urban rural mix the whole way.

The sound of the old diesel pumps lifting water from the canal to the paddocks was ever present. Donkeys were heard bleating, as always the Egyptians love using the horns on their vehicles.

They love fitting truck horns to motor bikes, riding along you hear this sound and a guy is following on a small motor bike.

The air was full of haze, largely smoke from people burning anything that was combustible.

At one point, the road came alongside the Nile near Abu Tig. This was a special moment. Its presence was exhilarating. We sure take fresh water for granted. This river gives so much to these people. Especially in a place that receives so little rain.

It is common for the rainfall to no more than 20mm a year. Though, people have told me it is around 200mm.

The Nile Basin

The Nile River, with an estimated length of over 6800 km, is the longest river flowing from south to north over 35 degrees of latitude. It is fed by two main river systems: the White Nile, with its sources on the Equatorial Lake Plateau (Burundi, Rwanda, Tanzania, Kenya, Zaire and Uganda), and the Blue Nile, with its sources in the Ethiopian highlands. The sources are located in humid regions, with an average rainfall of over 1000 mm per year. The arid region starts in Sudan, the largest country of Africa, which can be divided into three rainfall zones: the extreme south of the country where rainfall ranges from 1200 to 1500 mm per year; the fertile clay-plains where 400 to 800 mm of rain falls annually; and the desert northern third of the country where rainfall averages only 20 mm per year. Further north, in Egypt, precipitation falls to less than 20 mm per year.

The total area of the Nile basin represents 10.3% of the area of the continent and spreads over ten countries. Ref:www.fao.org

It was hoped to go to the river’s edge, some 30 m from the road but a menacing dog was hanging around the vacant lot.

A snack was had in a small village, as usual many people were hanging about the small street stall. Everyone was really friendly. The owner kindly shouted  the meal.

Riding down the road a little, a tea was ordered, the owner was busy getting shishas organised for other customers. After waiting some time, he was thanked and I moved on.

These shisha and coffee shops are everywhere. Even in the smallest roadside village, there is one of these in preference to a place to buy food. Most are occupied by men, often playing various versions of dominos.

Whilst they suck on the metre long tubes leading from the waist high water pipes. Different flavours can be ordered.

Back out on the road, it was a case of dodging, donkey drawn carts, pedestrians, motos with all sorts of loads, everything from 3 people to sacks and long lengths of reinforcing steel. These towns had wasp nests in them. (tuk tuks) these are the most hazardous obstacles. They come at you from all directions.

Up ahead was a square arch across the road. Beyond this a police checkpoint. They pulled me in. This is where my free riding ended.

From here, no fewer than 6 utes were taken to El Balyana.

The front panniers were taken off and the bike was man handled to and from each vehicle.

Care had to be taken, these situations are when fittings on the bike get damaged.

A couple of rides saw me in the cab with the guys, but on most occasions I was in the back with the bike and another officer.

One driver was driving so fast, that had we not been in a police car he would have been told to slow down.

He was passing cars into oncoming traffic, the siren would be put on the most high pitched option and the oncoming cars would often just have to pull over to make room.

At a couple of change overs, there were men in amongst the often 5 or more officers, who would be rubbing their thumbs with their fore and middle fingers.

This is the common gesture for money. The police did not stop it.

On these occasions, they would be ignored. I would firmly say no, no, no.

At 1600 we got to the temple at El Balyana, Abydos.

Here they guided me to the 2 star hotel in town. At the end of the road was the tourist attraction on the foreground of the desert beyond.

Heading into the local area, tea was bought at a rustic place and some lovely pastries bought.

Crossing back to the tourist area I sat down to chat with some guys, they could speak English.

Conversation centered around the tourist scene here over an extremely short strong coffee.

They told me that before the revolution everyone had money here, as there were so many tourists visiting the temple.

They said the tourists that come here now, don’t have much money. I said, “you mean people like me”. They said “no” but they were being polite, we laughed.

In the half hour I was with them only about 5 visitors were seen.

The place was almost like a ghost town .

On leaving, the owner said the coffee was 10 pound. I immediately said, “hang on I was across the other side and had a tea for 1 pound, c’mon”, immediately the price came down to 5.

Letting people over charge can soon add up. I am very strong with vendors on this matter. It keeps everyone honest.

It also helps to have the right change, often a trick is to say they don’t have the change when a 10 pound note is offered for something that coast 7 pound.

Everything is negotiable here. Often the starting price is ridiculous. For me I enjoy tipping those that do not ask for extra.

My room had great views across to a haze shrouded ochre escarpment beyond the town.

In Cairo, a nasty little throat could was caught, it is still developing. Back there, many people were smoking, coughing and spitting. In the many taxi rides taken it  was almost inevitable that this would happen.

The power was cut for a couple of hours. For me it was a good time just to fall asleep. It finally came back on about 1930hrs.

Noodles were cooked in the spacious, though cold third floor room.

12/1/2015 Abydos to Qena

D112, T5.5, Av19.91, max32, 35269, 389

Fine and warming up

The police compound was across the road from my hotel, it had been arranged to meet at 0900 in the morning. If they were going to give me lifts again, a late start would be in order.

Once down the not so steep staircase, the bike was wheeled across to the group of officers and civilians across the road.

Anyway, after some conferring they allowed me to ride.

Though not before a guy was very persistent with the request for money. I literally rode away and never looked back. The police did not attempt to stop his requests.

This is how life works here. I know my refusal to succumb to this persistence can’t be questioned.

The ride today through to Qena was a pleasure. As the road takes me further from Cairo, people are becoming more friendly. Children were calling out all the way. “What your name?” “Niguel” is my reply, it flows easier than the English pronunciation.

The agriculture was now predominantly sugar cane.

Everything is done manually. The cane is cut and loaded onto tractor drawn trailers by hand. Often a ladder was seen propped up against a trailer as the final bundles were being loaded.

Some trailers were loaded very precariously. Much cane was being bought from the  paddocks to  the trailers on donkeys and camels.

A huge sugar mill was passed, a grey plume of smoke was being expelled from its solitary tall chimney.

It is such a pleasure to see people on the roads with their animals. These small donkeys do so much for their owners. Some particularly small animals were seen being ridden by men whose feet were almost on the ground.

These faithful, hard working little creatures play such an important role here in the Nile valley. Camels were also seen carrying sugar cane along the roadside.

This sight is a reminder of just where I am.

Sometimes, it is hard to believe, that five or six years ago, my wildest dreams would not have seen me riding a bicycle through Egypt, or for that matter anywhere outside of Australia.

Each day over the last three and a half years has been very precious. Not knowing what each day would bring. Fosters enthusiasm, positiveness, adventure and above all, the embracing of life in a relatively simple way.

It’s uplifting, where, a loaded camel, being led by its proud owner, along a busy road in the Nile valley, can take my mind.

Some mandarins were bought from a great guy at a stall by the rail track as it crossed the road.

Some few km up the road, a quiet spot was found by the canal at an abandoned house.

It was so nice to have this time away from traffic and people, the waters flowed silently by. The mandarins were as sweet as ever.

At another little roadside stall off the main road, another meal was enjoyed, again the owner didn’t charge me. He was thanked sincerely. In these situations, there are always lots of people about. It’s fun, but can become quite exhausting, always having to have one eye for the bike and gear.

My pump and Opinel knife are now stowed in a pannier.

People are not distrusted, but temptation can turn the most honest man into a spontaneous petty theif. The pump could not be done without.

These measures allow more time for enjoying these situations.

Arriving in Qena, before crossing the large bridge over the river, time was spent drinking yoghurt and getting the names of a few hotels.

Again, the Google Translate was invaluable.

Crossing the bridge was done along the pedestrian way, this allowed for frequent stopping to take photos.

After a few false leads, the hotel New Palas was found in the middle of town.

A dinner of cut up spicy liver and rice with salad and bread was enjoyed.

More medicines were bought.

Prescription drugs can be bought here very cheaply. I have enough antibiotics and other medicines to hopefully see me right for the year.

The people here in this lovely riverside town were exceptional friendly. I made a point of telling them so, and how tranquil their town was.

Having learnt a few words, life is much easier here now.

On leaving Nic, a friend gave me 500Gb of movies and TV shows.

All the series of “The Big Bang Theory” are slowly being watched, at times seeing me burst out in laughter.

Watching TV was something, I rarely did back home. 

13/1/2015 Qena to Luxor

D70, t4, Av19.33, max33, 35,338, 459

Fine, warm, light tail winds.

There was no hurry to leave, as it was only 60km through to Luxor. The temperature has warmed up considerably. Hopefully it won’t be long before I am back in sandals and shorts.

The countryside was still cropped with sugar cane. Every now and again, a strong odour of rotting animals would permeate the air. Invariably the carcass of a bloated dog would be the culprit. A dog would need good road skills to live a full life on this busy conduit.

Almost every 5 km, there are speed humps and always at the turn offs to the small villages across the ever present canal.

They are designed to really slow people down including me.

Hitting one to fast, puts lots of strain on the already loaded front forks.

Lunch was had at a roadside stall. The guy overcharged me, I complained, a bystander said, “give him a discount”. I thanked him and in hindsight should have asked before ordering. This is important.

A few modern tourist buses were now seen heading my way.

On the outskirts of Luxor, one could see the progress that tourism allows, the roads were new and landscaped.

Though, once in town the surrounding desert landscape made its presence known, with sand on the roads edge. Rubbish though not excessive, was present.

Time was spent riding along the Nile and familiarising myself with the layout of the town before looking for a room.

Asking about, I headed to the Hotel Fontana. At first, the owner said he could store the bike downstairs.

The sleepless nights line saw me gaining permission to take it to the third floor room.

14-16/1/2015 Luxor

Fine, 18+ still

Cool evenings.

The presence of the Nile and the many types of boats that ply her, set the scene here in town.

The ancient peoples lived on this, the east side, the sun rises, to give life. The dead were buried on the west side, the setting sun, representing the end of life.

Hence the presence of the Valley of the Kings, across the river. The colossal burial ground of royalty, many moons ago here in Luxor.

A day trip was made with a group of young travellers to see these temples.

One night was spent out with a Belgian guy Peter and his friend Sowra from New York, it was over a great local meal celebrating Peters birthday.

He has just been in The Sudan, so some valuable up to date information was gained.

My food was topped up, with things like good coffee, spicy sardines and tuna among other staples.

My throat cold was persisting, so a three day course of Cipro was started, as I write this it has been nipped in the bud by the antibiotic.

A good local eatery has been sustaining me.

The sunsets here on the Nile are very dramatic especially from the rowing club.

The other night the power was disrupted throughout the city, it was a bit dodgey so time was spent in a restaurant that was using a generator and a taxi caught home to my back street lodgings.

There are tourists in town but not huge numbers. Most are tucked away in 5 star hotels. Nile cruises are very popular.

Watching the Feluccas sail the Nile is an enjoyable thing to do in the red light near days end with a sweetened black tea.

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A man and his friend
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Leaving Idfu.
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In amongst the feed they grow for these two modes of transport
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First decent glimpse of the fabled river since Cairo near Asyut.
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The temple Abydos at El Balyana near my hotel.
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Sugar cane country.
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Just the sweetest mandarins and only 50c a kilo.
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Most vistas have a donkey somewhere in the scene.
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The owner kindly shouted me this great lunch .
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Water stations, great idea
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Nile bridge at Qena, a lovely city.
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Fond memories of south America, such an enjoyable time was had there in the company of great people. Banana box in a fruit stall
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Fishermen on a canal.
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All these ferries docked due to lack of tourists.
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Looking forward to getting to Luxor.
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The Egyptians must take spiritual strength from their ancestors
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My room at Al Balyana at the temple Abydos.
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Very typical scenery.
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The Nile is tucked away over there somewhere.
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A huge eastern christian complex.
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Preferred way of moving cane to the mills and trains also used.
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The sound of these old diesel pumps can be heard all through the Nile valley. Lifting water from the canals into the paddocks.
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Qena bridge, it was his idea, a very friendly gentleman.
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