11/1/2015 Asyut to El Balyana
45 km riding, Av 20, 277
100km in police vehicles
I was a bit excited waking up knowing the police were not going to be waiting for me in the lobby.
My skills at wheeling a fully loaded bike down three or four flights of stairs are getting better each morning.
Finding a ground level hotel here has not been possible so far.
As to taking my bike into the room, if they won’t let me, they are told that I am unable to sleep unless it is the room. This line works on almost all occasions.
The highway was easily found. Though entering it was done on a ramp against traffic.
There were no police in sight.
The temperature had warmed up considerably, my raincoat was stowed in the front pannier with the neoprene gloves.
This was more like it! It was the same as usual, the road was an urban rural mix the whole way.
The sound of the old diesel pumps lifting water from the canal to the paddocks was ever present. Donkeys were heard bleating, as always the Egyptians love using the horns on their vehicles.
They love fitting truck horns to motor bikes, riding along you hear this sound and a guy is following on a small motor bike.
The air was full of haze, largely smoke from people burning anything that was combustible.
At one point, the road came alongside the Nile near Abu Tig. This was a special moment. Its presence was exhilarating. We sure take fresh water for granted. This river gives so much to these people. Especially in a place that receives so little rain.
It is common for the rainfall to no more than 20mm a year. Though, people have told me it is around 200mm.
The Nile Basin
The Nile River, with an estimated length of over 6800 km, is the longest river flowing from south to north over 35 degrees of latitude. It is fed by two main river systems: the White Nile, with its sources on the Equatorial Lake Plateau (Burundi, Rwanda, Tanzania, Kenya, Zaire and Uganda), and the Blue Nile, with its sources in the Ethiopian highlands. The sources are located in humid regions, with an average rainfall of over 1000 mm per year. The arid region starts in Sudan, the largest country of Africa, which can be divided into three rainfall zones: the extreme south of the country where rainfall ranges from 1200 to 1500 mm per year; the fertile clay-plains where 400 to 800 mm of rain falls annually; and the desert northern third of the country where rainfall averages only 20 mm per year. Further north, in Egypt, precipitation falls to less than 20 mm per year.
The total area of the Nile basin represents 10.3% of the area of the continent and spreads over ten countries. Ref:www.fao.org
It was hoped to go to the river’s edge, some 30 m from the road but a menacing dog was hanging around the vacant lot.
A snack was had in a small village, as usual many people were hanging about the small street stall. Everyone was really friendly. The owner kindly shouted the meal.
Riding down the road a little, a tea was ordered, the owner was busy getting shishas organised for other customers. After waiting some time, he was thanked and I moved on.
These shisha and coffee shops are everywhere. Even in the smallest roadside village, there is one of these in preference to a place to buy food. Most are occupied by men, often playing various versions of dominos.
Whilst they suck on the metre long tubes leading from the waist high water pipes. Different flavours can be ordered.
Back out on the road, it was a case of dodging, donkey drawn carts, pedestrians, motos with all sorts of loads, everything from 3 people to sacks and long lengths of reinforcing steel. These towns had wasp nests in them. (tuk tuks) these are the most hazardous obstacles. They come at you from all directions.
Up ahead was a square arch across the road. Beyond this a police checkpoint. They pulled me in. This is where my free riding ended.
From here, no fewer than 6 utes were taken to El Balyana.
The front panniers were taken off and the bike was man handled to and from each vehicle.
Care had to be taken, these situations are when fittings on the bike get damaged.
A couple of rides saw me in the cab with the guys, but on most occasions I was in the back with the bike and another officer.
One driver was driving so fast, that had we not been in a police car he would have been told to slow down.
He was passing cars into oncoming traffic, the siren would be put on the most high pitched option and the oncoming cars would often just have to pull over to make room.
At a couple of change overs, there were men in amongst the often 5 or more officers, who would be rubbing their thumbs with their fore and middle fingers.
This is the common gesture for money. The police did not stop it.
On these occasions, they would be ignored. I would firmly say no, no, no.
At 1600 we got to the temple at El Balyana, Abydos.
Here they guided me to the 2 star hotel in town. At the end of the road was the tourist attraction on the foreground of the desert beyond.
Heading into the local area, tea was bought at a rustic place and some lovely pastries bought.
Crossing back to the tourist area I sat down to chat with some guys, they could speak English.
Conversation centered around the tourist scene here over an extremely short strong coffee.
They told me that before the revolution everyone had money here, as there were so many tourists visiting the temple.
They said the tourists that come here now, don’t have much money. I said, “you mean people like me”. They said “no” but they were being polite, we laughed.
In the half hour I was with them only about 5 visitors were seen.
The place was almost like a ghost town .
On leaving, the owner said the coffee was 10 pound. I immediately said, “hang on I was across the other side and had a tea for 1 pound, c’mon”, immediately the price came down to 5.
Letting people over charge can soon add up. I am very strong with vendors on this matter. It keeps everyone honest.
It also helps to have the right change, often a trick is to say they don’t have the change when a 10 pound note is offered for something that coast 7 pound.
Everything is negotiable here. Often the starting price is ridiculous. For me I enjoy tipping those that do not ask for extra.
My room had great views across to a haze shrouded ochre escarpment beyond the town.
In Cairo, a nasty little throat could was caught, it is still developing. Back there, many people were smoking, coughing and spitting. In the many taxi rides taken it was almost inevitable that this would happen.
The power was cut for a couple of hours. For me it was a good time just to fall asleep. It finally came back on about 1930hrs.
Noodles were cooked in the spacious, though cold third floor room.
12/1/2015 Abydos to Qena
D112, T5.5, Av19.91, max32, 35269, 389
Fine and warming up
The police compound was across the road from my hotel, it had been arranged to meet at 0900 in the morning. If they were going to give me lifts again, a late start would be in order.
Once down the not so steep staircase, the bike was wheeled across to the group of officers and civilians across the road.
Anyway, after some conferring they allowed me to ride.
Though not before a guy was very persistent with the request for money. I literally rode away and never looked back. The police did not attempt to stop his requests.
This is how life works here. I know my refusal to succumb to this persistence can’t be questioned.
The ride today through to Qena was a pleasure. As the road takes me further from Cairo, people are becoming more friendly. Children were calling out all the way. “What your name?” “Niguel” is my reply, it flows easier than the English pronunciation.
The agriculture was now predominantly sugar cane.
Everything is done manually. The cane is cut and loaded onto tractor drawn trailers by hand. Often a ladder was seen propped up against a trailer as the final bundles were being loaded.
Some trailers were loaded very precariously. Much cane was being bought from the paddocks to the trailers on donkeys and camels.
A huge sugar mill was passed, a grey plume of smoke was being expelled from its solitary tall chimney.
It is such a pleasure to see people on the roads with their animals. These small donkeys do so much for their owners. Some particularly small animals were seen being ridden by men whose feet were almost on the ground.
These faithful, hard working little creatures play such an important role here in the Nile valley. Camels were also seen carrying sugar cane along the roadside.
This sight is a reminder of just where I am.
Sometimes, it is hard to believe, that five or six years ago, my wildest dreams would not have seen me riding a bicycle through Egypt, or for that matter anywhere outside of Australia.
Each day over the last three and a half years has been very precious. Not knowing what each day would bring. Fosters enthusiasm, positiveness, adventure and above all, the embracing of life in a relatively simple way.
It’s uplifting, where, a loaded camel, being led by its proud owner, along a busy road in the Nile valley, can take my mind.
Some mandarins were bought from a great guy at a stall by the rail track as it crossed the road.
Some few km up the road, a quiet spot was found by the canal at an abandoned house.
It was so nice to have this time away from traffic and people, the waters flowed silently by. The mandarins were as sweet as ever.
At another little roadside stall off the main road, another meal was enjoyed, again the owner didn’t charge me. He was thanked sincerely. In these situations, there are always lots of people about. It’s fun, but can become quite exhausting, always having to have one eye for the bike and gear.
My pump and Opinel knife are now stowed in a pannier.
People are not distrusted, but temptation can turn the most honest man into a spontaneous petty theif. The pump could not be done without.
These measures allow more time for enjoying these situations.
Arriving in Qena, before crossing the large bridge over the river, time was spent drinking yoghurt and getting the names of a few hotels.
Again, the Google Translate was invaluable.
Crossing the bridge was done along the pedestrian way, this allowed for frequent stopping to take photos.
After a few false leads, the hotel New Palas was found in the middle of town.
A dinner of cut up spicy liver and rice with salad and bread was enjoyed.
More medicines were bought.
Prescription drugs can be bought here very cheaply. I have enough antibiotics and other medicines to hopefully see me right for the year.
The people here in this lovely riverside town were exceptional friendly. I made a point of telling them so, and how tranquil their town was.
Having learnt a few words, life is much easier here now.
On leaving Nic, a friend gave me 500Gb of movies and TV shows.
All the series of “The Big Bang Theory” are slowly being watched, at times seeing me burst out in laughter.
Watching TV was something, I rarely did back home.
13/1/2015 Qena to Luxor
D70, t4, Av19.33, max33, 35,338, 459
Fine, warm, light tail winds.
There was no hurry to leave, as it was only 60km through to Luxor. The temperature has warmed up considerably. Hopefully it won’t be long before I am back in sandals and shorts.
The countryside was still cropped with sugar cane. Every now and again, a strong odour of rotting animals would permeate the air. Invariably the carcass of a bloated dog would be the culprit. A dog would need good road skills to live a full life on this busy conduit.
Almost every 5 km, there are speed humps and always at the turn offs to the small villages across the ever present canal.
They are designed to really slow people down including me.
Hitting one to fast, puts lots of strain on the already loaded front forks.
Lunch was had at a roadside stall. The guy overcharged me, I complained, a bystander said, “give him a discount”. I thanked him and in hindsight should have asked before ordering. This is important.
A few modern tourist buses were now seen heading my way.
On the outskirts of Luxor, one could see the progress that tourism allows, the roads were new and landscaped.
Though, once in town the surrounding desert landscape made its presence known, with sand on the roads edge. Rubbish though not excessive, was present.
Time was spent riding along the Nile and familiarising myself with the layout of the town before looking for a room.
Asking about, I headed to the Hotel Fontana. At first, the owner said he could store the bike downstairs.
The sleepless nights line saw me gaining permission to take it to the third floor room.
14-16/1/2015 Luxor
Fine, 18+ still
Cool evenings.
The presence of the Nile and the many types of boats that ply her, set the scene here in town.
The ancient peoples lived on this, the east side, the sun rises, to give life. The dead were buried on the west side, the setting sun, representing the end of life.
Hence the presence of the Valley of the Kings, across the river. The colossal burial ground of royalty, many moons ago here in Luxor.
A day trip was made with a group of young travellers to see these temples.
One night was spent out with a Belgian guy Peter and his friend Sowra from New York, it was over a great local meal celebrating Peters birthday.
He has just been in The Sudan, so some valuable up to date information was gained.
My food was topped up, with things like good coffee, spicy sardines and tuna among other staples.
My throat cold was persisting, so a three day course of Cipro was started, as I write this it has been nipped in the bud by the antibiotic.
A good local eatery has been sustaining me.
The sunsets here on the Nile are very dramatic especially from the rowing club.
The other night the power was disrupted throughout the city, it was a bit dodgey so time was spent in a restaurant that was using a generator and a taxi caught home to my back street lodgings.
There are tourists in town but not huge numbers. Most are tucked away in 5 star hotels. Nile cruises are very popular.
Watching the Feluccas sail the Nile is an enjoyable thing to do in the red light near days end with a sweetened black tea.
45 km riding, Av 20, 277
100km in police vehicles
I was a bit excited waking up knowing the police were not going to be waiting for me in the lobby.
My skills at wheeling a fully loaded bike down three or four flights of stairs are getting better each morning.
Finding a ground level hotel here has not been possible so far.
As to taking my bike into the room, if they won’t let me, they are told that I am unable to sleep unless it is the room. This line works on almost all occasions.
The highway was easily found. Though entering it was done on a ramp against traffic.
There were no police in sight.
The temperature had warmed up considerably, my raincoat was stowed in the front pannier with the neoprene gloves.
This was more like it! It was the same as usual, the road was an urban rural mix the whole way.
The sound of the old diesel pumps lifting water from the canal to the paddocks was ever present. Donkeys were heard bleating, as always the Egyptians love using the horns on their vehicles.
They love fitting truck horns to motor bikes, riding along you hear this sound and a guy is following on a small motor bike.
The air was full of haze, largely smoke from people burning anything that was combustible.
At one point, the road came alongside the Nile near Abu Tig. This was a special moment. Its presence was exhilarating. We sure take fresh water for granted. This river gives so much to these people. Especially in a place that receives so little rain.
It is common for the rainfall to no more than 20mm a year. Though, people have told me it is around 200mm.
The Nile Basin
The Nile River, with an estimated length of over 6800 km, is the longest river flowing from south to north over 35 degrees of latitude. It is fed by two main river systems: the White Nile, with its sources on the Equatorial Lake Plateau (Burundi, Rwanda, Tanzania, Kenya, Zaire and Uganda), and the Blue Nile, with its sources in the Ethiopian highlands. The sources are located in humid regions, with an average rainfall of over 1000 mm per year. The arid region starts in Sudan, the largest country of Africa, which can be divided into three rainfall zones: the extreme south of the country where rainfall ranges from 1200 to 1500 mm per year; the fertile clay-plains where 400 to 800 mm of rain falls annually; and the desert northern third of the country where rainfall averages only 20 mm per year. Further north, in Egypt, precipitation falls to less than 20 mm per year.
The total area of the Nile basin represents 10.3% of the area of the continent and spreads over ten countries. Ref:www.fao.org
It was hoped to go to the river’s edge, some 30 m from the road but a menacing dog was hanging around the vacant lot.
A snack was had in a small village, as usual many people were hanging about the small street stall. Everyone was really friendly. The owner kindly shouted the meal.
Riding down the road a little, a tea was ordered, the owner was busy getting shishas organised for other customers. After waiting some time, he was thanked and I moved on.
These shisha and coffee shops are everywhere. Even in the smallest roadside village, there is one of these in preference to a place to buy food. Most are occupied by men, often playing various versions of dominos.
Whilst they suck on the metre long tubes leading from the waist high water pipes. Different flavours can be ordered.
Back out on the road, it was a case of dodging, donkey drawn carts, pedestrians, motos with all sorts of loads, everything from 3 people to sacks and long lengths of reinforcing steel. These towns had wasp nests in them. (tuk tuks) these are the most hazardous obstacles. They come at you from all directions.
Up ahead was a square arch across the road. Beyond this a police checkpoint. They pulled me in. This is where my free riding ended.
From here, no fewer than 6 utes were taken to El Balyana.
The front panniers were taken off and the bike was man handled to and from each vehicle.
Care had to be taken, these situations are when fittings on the bike get damaged.
A couple of rides saw me in the cab with the guys, but on most occasions I was in the back with the bike and another officer.
One driver was driving so fast, that had we not been in a police car he would have been told to slow down.
He was passing cars into oncoming traffic, the siren would be put on the most high pitched option and the oncoming cars would often just have to pull over to make room.
At a couple of change overs, there were men in amongst the often 5 or more officers, who would be rubbing their thumbs with their fore and middle fingers.
This is the common gesture for money. The police did not stop it.
On these occasions, they would be ignored. I would firmly say no, no, no.
At 1600 we got to the temple at El Balyana, Abydos.
Here they guided me to the 2 star hotel in town. At the end of the road was the tourist attraction on the foreground of the desert beyond.
Heading into the local area, tea was bought at a rustic place and some lovely pastries bought.
Crossing back to the tourist area I sat down to chat with some guys, they could speak English.
Conversation centered around the tourist scene here over an extremely short strong coffee.
They told me that before the revolution everyone had money here, as there were so many tourists visiting the temple.
They said the tourists that come here now, don’t have much money. I said, “you mean people like me”. They said “no” but they were being polite, we laughed.
In the half hour I was with them only about 5 visitors were seen.
The place was almost like a ghost town .
On leaving, the owner said the coffee was 10 pound. I immediately said, “hang on I was across the other side and had a tea for 1 pound, c’mon”, immediately the price came down to 5.
Letting people over charge can soon add up. I am very strong with vendors on this matter. It keeps everyone honest.
It also helps to have the right change, often a trick is to say they don’t have the change when a 10 pound note is offered for something that coast 7 pound.
Everything is negotiable here. Often the starting price is ridiculous. For me I enjoy tipping those that do not ask for extra.
My room had great views across to a haze shrouded ochre escarpment beyond the town.
In Cairo, a nasty little throat could was caught, it is still developing. Back there, many people were smoking, coughing and spitting. In the many taxi rides taken it was almost inevitable that this would happen.
The power was cut for a couple of hours. For me it was a good time just to fall asleep. It finally came back on about 1930hrs.
Noodles were cooked in the spacious, though cold third floor room.
12/1/2015 Abydos to Qena
D112, T5.5, Av19.91, max32, 35269, 389
Fine and warming up
The police compound was across the road from my hotel, it had been arranged to meet at 0900 in the morning. If they were going to give me lifts again, a late start would be in order.
Once down the not so steep staircase, the bike was wheeled across to the group of officers and civilians across the road.
Anyway, after some conferring they allowed me to ride.
Though not before a guy was very persistent with the request for money. I literally rode away and never looked back. The police did not attempt to stop his requests.
This is how life works here. I know my refusal to succumb to this persistence can’t be questioned.
The ride today through to Qena was a pleasure. As the road takes me further from Cairo, people are becoming more friendly. Children were calling out all the way. “What your name?” “Niguel” is my reply, it flows easier than the English pronunciation.
The agriculture was now predominantly sugar cane.
Everything is done manually. The cane is cut and loaded onto tractor drawn trailers by hand. Often a ladder was seen propped up against a trailer as the final bundles were being loaded.
Some trailers were loaded very precariously. Much cane was being bought from the paddocks to the trailers on donkeys and camels.
A huge sugar mill was passed, a grey plume of smoke was being expelled from its solitary tall chimney.
It is such a pleasure to see people on the roads with their animals. These small donkeys do so much for their owners. Some particularly small animals were seen being ridden by men whose feet were almost on the ground.
These faithful, hard working little creatures play such an important role here in the Nile valley. Camels were also seen carrying sugar cane along the roadside.
This sight is a reminder of just where I am.
Sometimes, it is hard to believe, that five or six years ago, my wildest dreams would not have seen me riding a bicycle through Egypt, or for that matter anywhere outside of Australia.
Each day over the last three and a half years has been very precious. Not knowing what each day would bring. Fosters enthusiasm, positiveness, adventure and above all, the embracing of life in a relatively simple way.
It’s uplifting, where, a loaded camel, being led by its proud owner, along a busy road in the Nile valley, can take my mind.
Some mandarins were bought from a great guy at a stall by the rail track as it crossed the road.
Some few km up the road, a quiet spot was found by the canal at an abandoned house.
It was so nice to have this time away from traffic and people, the waters flowed silently by. The mandarins were as sweet as ever.
At another little roadside stall off the main road, another meal was enjoyed, again the owner didn’t charge me. He was thanked sincerely. In these situations, there are always lots of people about. It’s fun, but can become quite exhausting, always having to have one eye for the bike and gear.
My pump and Opinel knife are now stowed in a pannier.
People are not distrusted, but temptation can turn the most honest man into a spontaneous petty theif. The pump could not be done without.
These measures allow more time for enjoying these situations.
Arriving in Qena, before crossing the large bridge over the river, time was spent drinking yoghurt and getting the names of a few hotels.
Again, the Google Translate was invaluable.
Crossing the bridge was done along the pedestrian way, this allowed for frequent stopping to take photos.
After a few false leads, the hotel New Palas was found in the middle of town.
A dinner of cut up spicy liver and rice with salad and bread was enjoyed.
More medicines were bought.
Prescription drugs can be bought here very cheaply. I have enough antibiotics and other medicines to hopefully see me right for the year.
The people here in this lovely riverside town were exceptional friendly. I made a point of telling them so, and how tranquil their town was.
Having learnt a few words, life is much easier here now.
On leaving Nic, a friend gave me 500Gb of movies and TV shows.
All the series of “The Big Bang Theory” are slowly being watched, at times seeing me burst out in laughter.
Watching TV was something, I rarely did back home.
13/1/2015 Qena to Luxor
D70, t4, Av19.33, max33, 35,338, 459
Fine, warm, light tail winds.
There was no hurry to leave, as it was only 60km through to Luxor. The temperature has warmed up considerably. Hopefully it won’t be long before I am back in sandals and shorts.
The countryside was still cropped with sugar cane. Every now and again, a strong odour of rotting animals would permeate the air. Invariably the carcass of a bloated dog would be the culprit. A dog would need good road skills to live a full life on this busy conduit.
Almost every 5 km, there are speed humps and always at the turn offs to the small villages across the ever present canal.
They are designed to really slow people down including me.
Hitting one to fast, puts lots of strain on the already loaded front forks.
Lunch was had at a roadside stall. The guy overcharged me, I complained, a bystander said, “give him a discount”. I thanked him and in hindsight should have asked before ordering. This is important.
A few modern tourist buses were now seen heading my way.
On the outskirts of Luxor, one could see the progress that tourism allows, the roads were new and landscaped.
Though, once in town the surrounding desert landscape made its presence known, with sand on the roads edge. Rubbish though not excessive, was present.
Time was spent riding along the Nile and familiarising myself with the layout of the town before looking for a room.
Asking about, I headed to the Hotel Fontana. At first, the owner said he could store the bike downstairs.
The sleepless nights line saw me gaining permission to take it to the third floor room.
14-16/1/2015 Luxor
Fine, 18+ still
Cool evenings.
The presence of the Nile and the many types of boats that ply her, set the scene here in town.
The ancient peoples lived on this, the east side, the sun rises, to give life. The dead were buried on the west side, the setting sun, representing the end of life.
Hence the presence of the Valley of the Kings, across the river. The colossal burial ground of royalty, many moons ago here in Luxor.
A day trip was made with a group of young travellers to see these temples.
One night was spent out with a Belgian guy Peter and his friend Sowra from New York, it was over a great local meal celebrating Peters birthday.
He has just been in The Sudan, so some valuable up to date information was gained.
My food was topped up, with things like good coffee, spicy sardines and tuna among other staples.
My throat cold was persisting, so a three day course of Cipro was started, as I write this it has been nipped in the bud by the antibiotic.
A good local eatery has been sustaining me.
The sunsets here on the Nile are very dramatic especially from the rowing club.
The other night the power was disrupted throughout the city, it was a bit dodgey so time was spent in a restaurant that was using a generator and a taxi caught home to my back street lodgings.
There are tourists in town but not huge numbers. Most are tucked away in 5 star hotels. Nile cruises are very popular.
Watching the Feluccas sail the Nile is an enjoyable thing to do in the red light near days end with a sweetened black tea.
A man and his friend
Leaving Idfu.
In amongst the feed they grow for these two modes of transport
First decent glimpse of the fabled river since Cairo near Asyut.
The temple Abydos at El Balyana near my hotel.
Sugar cane country.
Just the sweetest mandarins and only 50c a kilo.
Most vistas have a donkey somewhere in the scene.
The owner kindly shouted me this great lunch .
Water stations, great idea
Nile bridge at Qena, a lovely city.
Fond memories of south America, such an enjoyable time was had there in the company of great people.
Banana box in a fruit stall
Fishermen on a canal.
All these ferries docked due to lack of tourists.
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Looking forward to getting to Luxor.
The Egyptians must take spiritual strength from their ancestors
My room at Al Balyana at the temple Abydos.
Very typical scenery.
The Nile is tucked away over there somewhere.
A huge eastern christian complex.
Preferred way of moving cane to the mills and trains also used.
The sound of these old diesel pumps can be heard all through the Nile valley. Lifting water from the canals into the paddocks.
Qena bridge, it was his idea, a very friendly gentleman.
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