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  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
Picture
Leaving Suleymans apartment in Uskudar with the market owner next door. My source of fresh bread whilst there.
Picture
Having an authentic Black Sea meal with Emin in Bagirganli. We had a great afternoon together talking boats and other stuff.
26/2/2016 Istanbul to Mahmut  Sevket Pasa and back to Istanbul
T97, T7, Av12.80, max49,  97, Tot 50,819
Alt up 1359m,  max alt, 334
Full of anticipation and excitement I was ready to go at about 0830,  Suleyman was leaving early so I had to take my gear down bit by bit and leave it with the store owner whilst I went up for more.
Ready to go about 0900, a few pics were taken. Once again it was a mild overcast day.
I stopped down below in the main street for my last meal in the Yemek evi, with the guys who have been feeding me for the last month.
Leaving here the road to me down to the water front here a right turn north was made. It was a great ride along the Bosphorous. Passing underthe two huge suspension bridges, firstly the Bogazic bridge, then theFaith Sultan Mehmet , these bridges are huge.
It was busy on the narrow road, however I had now real proplems with fellow road users.
Near Beykoz my left pedal started clicking. I let it be, then decided to check it out. Nothing could be done to adjust the bearings.
I rode on in two minds as to what do about it.
It was a pleasure riding along the Bosphorus, there were men fishing at many locations and all manner of small craft moored in small channels. A vessel was even seen along the shores with a ribbed conveyer scooping flotsam from from the Bosphorus.
I was impressed.
Once turning away from the water at Beykoz the climbing commenced, nothing to steep but constant, near the top a tunnel was ridden through. It was incredibly noisy inside.
I thought I had missed a turn to Riva and went back through it, had not and had to ride it for a third time.
This road climbed and then descended into more rural  land. That of deciduous trees.
The pedal was still clicking.
To put up with this for months was not on. I stopped for lunch in a small restaurant  down the slope to the Mahmut Sevket Pasa.
From here, it was a small climb then a descent into the village. Here I asked if there was a pension. No was the answer. I now made the decision to return to Istanbul and get this annoying problem fixed.
The bike shop was open till 1900. I could make it.
All day I had been sweating in my Ice Breaker base layer and Icebreaker tee shirt,. Only to be cold down the hills in the fresh air.
Without rushing I slowly backtracked. Once back on the main road I managed to hail a Dolmush down. It was a rural type wagon, An aisle down the middle. We man handled the bike in.
They took me to Beykoz, here I kept riding and met up with a local cyclist, we rode together until Ukudar.
By now I was quite worn out. For my first day back this was big.
Peak hour traffic was in full swing. The light was fading I put my rear light on and used the GPS to continue.
Energy levels were so low that a stop was made to eat some bread and Nutella. Peanut butter is $20 a jar, if you can find it .
Finall y I got to Bisiklet Gezgini, here Secil let me park the bike in the shop for the night . After she closed the shop we caught a mini bus back to Kadikoy.
Here I walked up to Cath and Evens house. Evan and I both said we are sure to catch up again. Here we were catching up again 10 hours later.
We ordered home delivery kebabs and then went on to meet friends of hteirs at a busy bar in bar street.
There was a great bunch of young people at our table. We had a great time over drinks until one in the morning.
Walking home a heavy down pour was in progress.
We all felt like we had been smoking for the night. My throat was sore and my close stunk.
On the Saturday I went back to the bike shop, here I took the bike for a ride with the new pedals on it. Everything was fine, thankfully .
I was always having trouble replacing the cable in my MSR Whisperlite stove. This time I could not get the last 10mm of the cable back in the fuel line. This stove has lasted me nearly five years. I did not want to risk having this problem once leaving Istanbul. Alex had plenty of them in stock so a new one was purchased.
I spent the afternoon in the shop just chatting.
That evenining Evan cooked up a brilliant chicken pie which was followed by icecream and a movie.
The first movie we watched was engrossing. Called “Slow West”, much of it was filmed on my sister and her husbands farm Ben Ohau Station in the McKenzie basin in NZ. The first instalment of Lord of the Rings had some scenes filmed there also.
My time with Evan and Cath on and off whilst in Istanbul was so relaxing and enjoyable. It was so nice to spend time with them outside of the environment of my home town.
Unlike many people I know at home, they have thrown caution to the wind and are experiencing the richness of another culture and its people. Good on them.
28/2/2016  Istanbul to Kilicli
D58, T4.2, Av13.37, max49, 50827, 155, Alt up 196
Cold and misty.
I got away from Evan and Caths at 0830, well rest and happy to be leaving again, this time on a Sunday.
Traffic was a lot quiter, infact, it was a pleasure to be riding the same route, it was so much more relaxing with less traffic.
Once out of the city, a stop was made at a fruit stall going up to the tunnel. The guys were growing oranges at Anatolya, they were so sweet and juicy. They offered me a bag full. My bike was heavy enough. They let me eat as many as I could. They mist was setting in, at the top of the ranges it was thick.
In Mahmut Sevket Pasa, as far as I got the other day, a stop was made for soup and chai.
Managing the cold sweat is a problem. I spent money on a good light weight Arcteryx high tech jacket. As soon as I stop I put this on to stop getting cold. It works perfectly.
I am still getting my road fitness, so going was slow in the hill country. Along the way were dozens of dogs living in groups. I say groups not packs as they were not hunters.
They looked sad and were timid. They have been dump by people from Istanbul. It is sad. People drive up to feed them, there are also rough kennels built for them in the bush.
The landscape is all forested in small deciduous trees and blackberry is common on the roadside. It is all rather bleak.
Nearing the top of one range there were shot gun blasts every minute or so it was a bit scary. Anyway near the top it was found to be a clay bird club. I stopped outside and was getting pellets falling on me as they came through the trees. I had to laugh .
About three in the afternoon in thick mist o pulled into Kilici for a çay.
Chatting with all the guys as best I could, they said there was a man over the road that spoke English. I yelled out to him and said I would be over soon.
Ahmet was a great guy. He was running his dads Kahve hane for winter and guides tourists in summer.
I stopped here and drank chai all afternoon and ate food that a man from Istanbul bought up. Everyone was so friendly. These “gentlemn clubs” are everywhere. Men play cards, backgammon and a game called OK.
They generally just come to these places to be social.
The mosque across the road had clean toilets and showers. The imam called during the evening, the men just wandered over and came back after prayers.
It was a great experience to be with these people sharing a little of one aspect of their lives.
Ahmet  said I could sleep in a room adjoining. I set up on the floor and had a good nights sleep. It was great to be getting back to normal again.
29/2/2016   Kilicli to Karaca
D64, T4.5, Av13.00, max51, 50942, 219, Alt up 1155m
Cold and misty.
Leaving about 0830, it was straight into heavy mist, visibility was no more than 50m. Riding was easy for a time. I was told about the relentless hills here. They do not bother me, I enjoy riding amongst this kind of terrain, at least one does not have to pedal all the way, unlike flat country.
Water is available at many points along the road. It is spring water and very cool.
I stopped at one village for bread and cheese, that Ahment had given me.
There are few people about, this time of year the road is very quite.
Many restaurants are closed. I arrived at the coast before Sile but stopped at Sile and had lunch in a popular eatery.
Here a rubber tipped pen for my phone was bought. It saves me taking off my gloves all the time when using the phone to check my position etc.
The hills continued relentlessly, there was a huge new bridge being constructed near Akcakse. Near this new road they are building there have been these enormous pipes stacked along the line they are to be layed.
These pipes are so big my bike could easily be wheeled within. They would be perfect for camping should the need arise.
The road seems to leave the coast and then most unexpectedly the coast is reached again.
Nearing 1630. I asked some builders if I cold camp in the house they were building. They told me the police are not too keen on this.
Up in the village Karaca, I was looking around for a place to camp. A man on the street was approached he turned out to be the imam from the local mosque. He allowed me to camp in an area adjacent the mosque. It had fesh water and a toilet. It was great. Another man came along and asked if I wanted to come to his house foe a shower and watch the football. All this in Turkish I might add. I use the translator when I can. It took me half an hour to tell him I could not leave my gear.
The mist set in again. This prompted me to cook dinner in the toilets. Really there was no other choice as outside the mist was soaking everything.
This was a perfect opportunity to check the camping gear in this rather cold weather.
I was expecting a heavy overnight dew with condensation all through the inside of the tent .
 Life was getting back to normal. The pasta was great. As soon as I hit the tent it was not long before sleep came . I woke up and thought I had been sleeping all night, it was only midnight!!
I felt safe here. The Turkish rural people like most of their city cousins are incredibly friendly.
Some older people hearing English just walk away, though few do this.
As usual I always tether my bike to the tent with occy straps.  
01/3/2016    Karaca to Bagirganli harbour
D35, T2.5, Av11.94, max53, 50977, 244, Alt up4105m
Beautiful mild day, sunny
I could not believe it in the morning what had been mist the night before was now clear with a view of the Black Sea and the tent was almost dry.
I had eaten breakfast and was ready to leave by 0830. I went to see the Imam but he was not about. A note was left to thank him.
The hills today were very steep and many.  All the way to Aĝva some 10km east.
Here was another lovely coastal town with few tourists.
Time was spent here having sandwiches and fruit t the water front. As usual there were stray dogs everywhere.
Again, they were timid, unlike their cyclist hungry kin in Peru. Leaving here, at 1200 with only 10 km ridden it was going to be a lazy day in the warming sun.
I was riding with just a tee shirt on and a peak hat it was that warm .
I took a tertiary road to Kadikoy and other villages. The road was even quiter out here. The villages were frequent and very rural.
A stop was made at Panali for chai. Here it was only half  lira. Unlike Istanbul  where I paid up to 3 TL in Kadikoy.
The countryside was more rural now with farmers working in their hazelnut plantations. I am told they are everywhere along this coast.
The road deteriorated to dirt along here. They are rebuilding it. I stopped for an orange and noticed the rear tyre was going down. This was repaired.
Passing more hazelnut plantations, I suddenly dropped down to the coast and a fishing harbour. I stopped here and had a coke at the restaurant and spoke with two other local cyclists.
I then went for a ride down to the harbour. Here there were many boats on hard.
One lovely full keel yacht caught my eye.
I was looking at her when a guy said hi from another boat and would I like to take a look onboard. Emin took me onboard and we talked boats all afternoon. I then went for a ride to the end of the breakwall.
It was a real working harbour.
Emin asked if I would like to eat with him in the restaurant. Here we enjoyed salad and fried whole local fish. It was such a nice meal. Emin could speak some English. He said I could sleep on his boat. Anyway after dinner and nearly dark we went to the fishermens coop, here they said I could sleep.
They said I could sleep on a lounge in the main area. I declined as it was just filled with smoke. Instead I pitched my tent in the foyer.
The night was spent typing this.
Emin was such a nice guy we got on really well. He was off to Istanbul, a two hour drive tonight to see his mother who is not very well.
The club was a great place out of the weather to dry things agains.
The Turkish hospitality has been overwhelming. I get offered Çay everywhere I go. People always ask my age.
Today was so enjoying in the almost summer like weather. I stopped every chance I got to talk with people and look at things. The construction trucks drivers on the road all wave as they move gravel from one place to another. They apart from tractors and the odd car are all using the road.
A filling fell from my tooth tonight it is very painful this will have to be sorted out ASAP.
  
 
02/3/2016   Bagirganli  Harbour  to  Derelict  house
D74, T5.2, Av13.50, max63, 51050, 318, Alt up1200m
Fine morning, mild, wet afternoon
Later in the evening I decided to sleep in the heated area on a lounge. The smell of smoke was thick but it was warm. Plus my gear would get a chance to dry out. This is quite a problem accentuated by the damp air.
Anyway, needless to say I slept very well. I was up early and cooked breakfast outside on one of the tables. It was invigorating to see the early sun light illuminating the many boats in the marina.
These Black Sea harbours are a great place to come and slip a yacht for repairs. They are so under utilized.
Leaving about 0800, it was a steady climb out of the bay and back into the rolling hills mostly planted with Hazelnuts. Farmers are now in the orchards pruning out the weak growths.
The rain started about  midday.
 I got out my waterproof over pants. These were put over my longs. My coat was also put on.
My clothing arrangement which now seems to be working well is:
Columbia waterproof hiking shoes, Ice Breaker socks, IB boxers, Outdoor Research loose fitting stretch climbing longs,(these have lasted 4.5 years) IB inner layer200 and IB tee,
Stretch skull cap and woollen beany with gloves according to temperature.
This seems to work well for me.
I have a new Arcteryx Atom jacket to keep warm when camping and another set of IB woollens.
I really feel the cold so am carrying plenty of winter gear. I often sleep in woollen longjohns.
I also wear my Marmot minimalist raincoat whenever necessary.
I also have a sea to Summit sleeping bag liner which most definetly adds another few degrees to my sleeping bags min comfortable temperature .
On arrival at Kandira a stop at the markets was made and some fresh bananas bought .These are very expensive here, but I love them .
A stop was made for Çay and bread at a bakery.
Riding up one hill on the main road a man was driving one of these little rural tractor type vehicles. His brakes failed and he ploughed into the drain and cutiing. I was still down the road a way. People stopped to help him. He was injured quite badly. Poor guy .I continued on there was nothing I could do to help.
The road now came close to the sea again with little villages and bays everywhere. All were deserted eccept for a few locals. The sea was dead flat and forecasted as having a temperature of 10 degrees.
Tractors of freshly cut çay were seen on the roads in some small villages, the aroma of the freshly cut plants wasvery enticing.
In Kurtye I stopped at the only open cafe and had fried liver of lamb and rice.
Leaving here the road took me into some very rural areas on dirt roads. It was  pleasure to just be ambling along in this most rural of environments, very few people were encountered .
Everything is a shade of green and grey through to black. Everything is very wet .
Getting to the one shop village of Cametepe, I bought yoghurt and asked the owner if I could camp somewhere on his property he was not to keen .I had to move on. It was now getting close to dark and very damp and cold. Never enough to dampen my enthusiasm.
Even the large pipes had been buried along this section so there was no chance of sleeping in one of them.
 
Further up on my left was a track leading into an old derelict house. Investigation found it to be suitable for camping. I found a small room with just enough room to set up my tent .
Not hungry just a couple of cups of tea were made.
I had to be careful with my light as some vehicles were passing on the dirt track.
I am sure they would not have cared, but it is best not to be seen .
My string line was put up and all my wet gear hung up .
It was a very humble little camp in what must have been a palatial home in its day. The floors even in this little room under the stairs had marble floors. Vandals had been over the place.
I felt safe here which mattered the most. Sleep came easy .
 
 
 
 
3/3/2016   Derelict  house, Camitepe to beach side park
D73, T4.25, Av16.50, max56, 51123, 391, Alt up594m
Wet and damp all day
 Once again wet clothes had to put on. Though the wool only takes minutes to warm up .
Breakfast was bread and tomatoes. The Turkish make just the best bread rolls.
It was not far to Karasu. Here I found a restaurant and had 3 bowls of soup and two bowls of chicken stew. It was so nice and warm in my stomack. In the little cafe was a well groomed young boy Halit. He was a Syrian refugee.
He could onlty speak Arabic. This reality got me quite emotional. The harsh reality of this crisis was before me. I had to find a tissue to clear my eyes .Young Halit had such a positive smile.
All the water on the roads was getting thrown onto my shoes as the front mudflap had fallen off sometime in Namibia.
I got directions to a moto shop, here a plastic bottle was cut to shape and the guys lent me a drill to fit it with some screws I had bought .
No one here speaks English so I get by with some phrases given to me by Cath and Evan also Suleyman they have been so helpful .
Once this  was fitted the water was much less of a problem .
The road from here was almost flat for 40km. It made a great change.
I have a lot of weight onboard for this trip and have so far ridden up all hills, though ret regularly, afterall I have plenty of time.
It is also early in the journey, my fitness has a long way to go.
At the top of one hill a stop at at çay house was made. Here çay is only .75TL a glass.
All the local guys came for a chat. Or at least we tried .
On arrival at Akoçakoca, I stopped for yoghurt and bought some potatoes for the night to fry.
I stopped at a hotel and asked the price they said TL60, it was far to much plus the room was up in a lift and they would not let me take the bike up.
Riding on the road got very close to the sea again. There was a camping area on the obeach front. Riding on I found  gap in the guard rail and went into the park. It was completely deserted. In here an enclosed awning was entered. In here was even a bed. I was very lucky having this waterfront accommodation. There was even a subtly beautiful sunset looking back towards Istanbul over the black Sea.
I cooked my potatoes in the fry pan with lots of garlic and climbed onto the bed and fell aseep.
Earlier my tent had been hung up along with all my very wet clothes.
 
 
 
4/3/2016  Beach side park, to Eregli, Warmshowers Heraclia
D40, T2.46, Av14.53, max39, 51163, 431, Alt up263m
Lovely morning wet afternoon
My little cabin had been just the best place, the sound of the gentle waves had made for an excellent sleep.
Even my soaking clothes had dried a little. I was up very early, so as to get away before anyone arrived
 
 
 I stopped at a petrol station roadhouse and had soup and an omelette.
 
The road was flat again. Riding was still along the seaside.
From here interestingly the west bound side of the road went through no fewer than twelve well lit road tunnels. It is so noisy in these when other vehicles are within, especially trucks.
I had all day to ride the 34 km to Ereĝli. Arrangments had been made to stay with a Warmshowers host Heraclia, he was going to meet me at 1500, so I had all day.
Some adjustments were made to my new mudflap, as water was still spraying onto my right shoe . Next stop was the seaside city of Alepli. Here time was spent in the riverside parks, just enjoying the sun and some yoghurt .
Like most public places there was a statue of Ataaturk. A national hero.
 
Ereĝlia was an industrial city. There were half completed ships in a shipyard near the road. It had been impacted by the GFC.
There are two blast furnaces here that use Brazillian coal to produce steel .
In town I had lunch at a cafe and visited the large Migros store in an effort to find some breakfast cereal and milk powder which are both hard to find.
After lunch, it was decided to get some dental work done. I asked around for a Dişçi.
It took awhile but a modern practice was found. Here three fillings were repaired for TL300 which was good value I thought.
It felt good to have had this done.
Heraclia met me here and we rode to his apartment which was nearby. He lived 6 floors up.
Once here it was a priority to shower. It felt so good .We enjoyed a home cooked chicken dish and my washing was attended to .
Heraclia spoke some English but not to fluently. We used the translator to clarify ourselves.
I made sure all my gear was charging and hung the tent out to dry .It was great to be here. The weekend forecast is for more rain. It was so nice to be cosy with great sea views from his apartment .

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Hamsi boat, Agavi harbour
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These guy kept me fed almost the whole time in Istanbul in their tiny little eatery. it was just the most authentic Turkish home cooked food. each meal was 5TL. Uskudar
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Second departure. The three of us had such an enjoyble, relaxing and fun time in Istanbul together. Thanks you guys!! Kadikoy.
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Northern Bosphorus Anglers.
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The unwanted dogs of Istanbul. Sad, but at least someone looks after them. They were all timid and looked sad.
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Ahmets cay house and my stop for hte night. Ataturks bust in the foreground .
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Typical conditions for two days after leaving the Bosphorus
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The crew at Ahments cafe, Ahmet to the left of me.
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First glimpse of the Black Sea
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Sile coast
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Small villages every few kilometers, all had a mosque
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These huge pipes are being laid to bring water to istanbul
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Camp at Karaca mosque
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Emins project.
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Looking east from the breakwall at Bargirganli
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Hazelnut trees
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