8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín
D77, T4.2/6, Av17.66, max56, Tot15155, 5091
Up early, Deirdre had already packed the night before. I got my packing done and we headed over to the Terminal for hot drinks and a wander to fill in time. We bought chicharon and bread to eat in the room.
With the stairs in the hotel, it was easy having two people to keep an eye on things.
I got her bike down then waited while she got all her gear and vise versa.
We then sauntered over to the terminal where the guys loading the bus were a little less than impressed about freighting a bike that had not been dismantled.
Anyway, once on board we said our final goodbyes, a tad emotional, but such is life.
It had been a special three weeks together, visiting unique parts of Peru not often frequented by tourists.
Visiting such places on bicycles lay the foundation for a lasting friendship, a bit like friendships built though attending a boarding school, flatting with people or sailing.
During this time we had shared much, though most importantly we had a great time with lots of laughs, new experiences, our friendship had an easiness with each other, that we both agreed, may one day see us catch up again.
Riding out of town meant back tracking to the highway again.
I was in pretty ordinary health with diarrhoea and this cold that is producing copious quantities of phlegm in the mornings and leaves me with a sore throat all day.
Though I still have strength and most importantly an appetite.
Luckily, a fine day was in the making.
Once on the highway, riding was divine. This was the Peruvian altiplano and the road took me around its perimeter. To my right was the vast altiplano, while to my left were the perimeter hills. Potatoes, llamas and sheep were the main ag activities on these hills.
In the distance to the east snow clad mountains formed its boundary
Large herds of freshly shorn llama were seen and the bleating of young lambs looking for their mothers were heard.
On one face there were at least one hundred people bagging potatoes on a sloping field. There were wasps parked everywhere at the foot of the slope.
The road is heavily used by semis, always loaded heading north, though often empty heading back to Lima. Though some were carrying timber.
Rain patches were encountered, it was bitterly cold. Riding gear now consists of:
Water proof over covers for my runners
Water proof socks
Woollen long johns, icebreaker
Long pants
Water proof over pants
Woollen long sleeved shirt
Odlo sweat shirt
Raincoat
Neck warmer
beany
Sunglasses
Heavy duty gloves
A positive attitude!!
Now off to the right was Lake Junín, a large body of water broken by patches of vegetation.
Mostly the ride was gently sloping down to Junín, even though it was cold outside, my gear, coupled with the effort needed for forward motion kept me warm and comfortable, except for my throat which felt like it had a piece of sand paper lodged in it.
I could hardly talk, so my communication with people on the road was kept to a minimum, in short it hurt to talk. Something I do enjoy!!
Perfect timing aye, Deirdre!!
Lunch was had at Carhuamayo, heaps of trucks were outside the chosen restaurant, always a sign of good food and value.
A caldo de gallina and 3 piping hot chichas were enjoyed. As anticipated, it was all good.
Riding alone again has its advantages, my pace or lack thereof at times, bothered no one else. Though riding with company too has many advantages. Hopefully the road further south will offer a mix of both.
I feel, if one had embarked on this journey alone, but really wanting company, it would indeed would have been a lonely pursuit. I feel privileged to be at ease and happy with my own company. Though never uneasy in the company of others, I have a gregarious side which often, I like to persue.
People I did speak to on the road all commented on how cold Cerro is. It certainly has a reputation for its climate.
Arriving in Junín at an altitude of 4125m , I exited the highway to the right and stopped for an ice block to lubricate my throat. The owner and a few of his mates came out for a yarn. I was here for half an hour .
About 10km beyond the village is the interesting Lago de Junín , which, at about 30km long and 14km wide, is Peru’s largest lake after Titicaca. More than 4000m above sea level, it is the highest lake of its size in the Americas and is known for its birdlife. Some authorities claim one million birds live on and around the lake at any one time. These include one of the western world’s rarest species, the Junín Grebe and, among the nonwinged inhabitants, wild cuy .
Planet, Lonely; Carolyn McCarthy; Carolina A Miranda; Kevin Raub; Brendan Sainsbury; Luke Waterson (2013-03-01). Lonely Planet Peru (Travel Guide) (Kindle Locations 12477-12481). Lonely Planet Publications. Kindle Edition.
I was interested in seeing Flamingo that frequent the lake, though I was told they are not here at this time of year for obvious reasons.
No ground level hotels were available in town, so Nebys hotel was booked were a short staircase and a friendly host made things easy.
I felt like a sack of shit, and it was bloody cold. A couple of cups of tea were made and porridge with raisins eaten.
The room had no heating and each breath exhaled indicated how cold it was.
I left most clothes on and climbed into bed, watched some TV and crashed.
Facing these hardships, for me is not new, having many years ago spent month long stints camping on the Ruakaturi river in the Uraweras in New Zealand.
Back then, trapping possums, we were riverside, in a tent often with snow on the ground. My territory saw me having to cross the bitterly cold fast flowing river, wearing socks and not much else, hanging onto a rope to stop getting washed away during the daily crossings.
I will admit, I was camp cook, so was never hungry, tasting the venison or pork stews was mandatory during the preparation process!!
Having also offshore sailed, also lessens any present hardships.
It is quite amazing how low temperatures have such an impact on ones interpretation of proceedings. My admiration goes out to people who live in such conditions, give me the warm climes anyday. Living on the mid north coast of New South Wales in Australia has softened me up.
So, these conditions, given the right clothing, not doing something silly and most importantly staying positive are not really that bad. After all being dry and warm at night makes any daytime hardships dissolve.
I am so looking forward to the time when my health returns to normal. It will be great not having to carry so much toilet paper with me. My nose and the nether region are creating a huge demand on this product.
For me, when I decide to get back to normality and comfort, its trappings will be, ever so appreciated and not taken for granted.
D77, T4.2/6, Av17.66, max56, Tot15155, 5091
Up early, Deirdre had already packed the night before. I got my packing done and we headed over to the Terminal for hot drinks and a wander to fill in time. We bought chicharon and bread to eat in the room.
With the stairs in the hotel, it was easy having two people to keep an eye on things.
I got her bike down then waited while she got all her gear and vise versa.
We then sauntered over to the terminal where the guys loading the bus were a little less than impressed about freighting a bike that had not been dismantled.
Anyway, once on board we said our final goodbyes, a tad emotional, but such is life.
It had been a special three weeks together, visiting unique parts of Peru not often frequented by tourists.
Visiting such places on bicycles lay the foundation for a lasting friendship, a bit like friendships built though attending a boarding school, flatting with people or sailing.
During this time we had shared much, though most importantly we had a great time with lots of laughs, new experiences, our friendship had an easiness with each other, that we both agreed, may one day see us catch up again.
Riding out of town meant back tracking to the highway again.
I was in pretty ordinary health with diarrhoea and this cold that is producing copious quantities of phlegm in the mornings and leaves me with a sore throat all day.
Though I still have strength and most importantly an appetite.
Luckily, a fine day was in the making.
Once on the highway, riding was divine. This was the Peruvian altiplano and the road took me around its perimeter. To my right was the vast altiplano, while to my left were the perimeter hills. Potatoes, llamas and sheep were the main ag activities on these hills.
In the distance to the east snow clad mountains formed its boundary
Large herds of freshly shorn llama were seen and the bleating of young lambs looking for their mothers were heard.
On one face there were at least one hundred people bagging potatoes on a sloping field. There were wasps parked everywhere at the foot of the slope.
The road is heavily used by semis, always loaded heading north, though often empty heading back to Lima. Though some were carrying timber.
Rain patches were encountered, it was bitterly cold. Riding gear now consists of:
Water proof over covers for my runners
Water proof socks
Woollen long johns, icebreaker
Long pants
Water proof over pants
Woollen long sleeved shirt
Odlo sweat shirt
Raincoat
Neck warmer
beany
Sunglasses
Heavy duty gloves
A positive attitude!!
Now off to the right was Lake Junín, a large body of water broken by patches of vegetation.
Mostly the ride was gently sloping down to Junín, even though it was cold outside, my gear, coupled with the effort needed for forward motion kept me warm and comfortable, except for my throat which felt like it had a piece of sand paper lodged in it.
I could hardly talk, so my communication with people on the road was kept to a minimum, in short it hurt to talk. Something I do enjoy!!
Perfect timing aye, Deirdre!!
Lunch was had at Carhuamayo, heaps of trucks were outside the chosen restaurant, always a sign of good food and value.
A caldo de gallina and 3 piping hot chichas were enjoyed. As anticipated, it was all good.
Riding alone again has its advantages, my pace or lack thereof at times, bothered no one else. Though riding with company too has many advantages. Hopefully the road further south will offer a mix of both.
I feel, if one had embarked on this journey alone, but really wanting company, it would indeed would have been a lonely pursuit. I feel privileged to be at ease and happy with my own company. Though never uneasy in the company of others, I have a gregarious side which often, I like to persue.
People I did speak to on the road all commented on how cold Cerro is. It certainly has a reputation for its climate.
Arriving in Junín at an altitude of 4125m , I exited the highway to the right and stopped for an ice block to lubricate my throat. The owner and a few of his mates came out for a yarn. I was here for half an hour .
About 10km beyond the village is the interesting Lago de Junín , which, at about 30km long and 14km wide, is Peru’s largest lake after Titicaca. More than 4000m above sea level, it is the highest lake of its size in the Americas and is known for its birdlife. Some authorities claim one million birds live on and around the lake at any one time. These include one of the western world’s rarest species, the Junín Grebe and, among the nonwinged inhabitants, wild cuy .
Planet, Lonely; Carolyn McCarthy; Carolina A Miranda; Kevin Raub; Brendan Sainsbury; Luke Waterson (2013-03-01). Lonely Planet Peru (Travel Guide) (Kindle Locations 12477-12481). Lonely Planet Publications. Kindle Edition.
I was interested in seeing Flamingo that frequent the lake, though I was told they are not here at this time of year for obvious reasons.
No ground level hotels were available in town, so Nebys hotel was booked were a short staircase and a friendly host made things easy.
I felt like a sack of shit, and it was bloody cold. A couple of cups of tea were made and porridge with raisins eaten.
The room had no heating and each breath exhaled indicated how cold it was.
I left most clothes on and climbed into bed, watched some TV and crashed.
Facing these hardships, for me is not new, having many years ago spent month long stints camping on the Ruakaturi river in the Uraweras in New Zealand.
Back then, trapping possums, we were riverside, in a tent often with snow on the ground. My territory saw me having to cross the bitterly cold fast flowing river, wearing socks and not much else, hanging onto a rope to stop getting washed away during the daily crossings.
I will admit, I was camp cook, so was never hungry, tasting the venison or pork stews was mandatory during the preparation process!!
Having also offshore sailed, also lessens any present hardships.
It is quite amazing how low temperatures have such an impact on ones interpretation of proceedings. My admiration goes out to people who live in such conditions, give me the warm climes anyday. Living on the mid north coast of New South Wales in Australia has softened me up.
So, these conditions, given the right clothing, not doing something silly and most importantly staying positive are not really that bad. After all being dry and warm at night makes any daytime hardships dissolve.
I am so looking forward to the time when my health returns to normal. It will be great not having to carry so much toilet paper with me. My nose and the nether region are creating a huge demand on this product.
For me, when I decide to get back to normality and comfort, its trappings will be, ever so appreciated and not taken for granted.
A lonely place is both life and death
Though not really visible there were close to a hundred people on this slope harvesting potatoes
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Though lonely and desolate it had a certain beauty
Downtown Junín
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