4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco
D73, T4, Av16, Tot16255, 6191
Yesterday morning, up early, and on the road about 0800 and heading towards Inca ruins at Ancahuasi.
It was quite strange riding the bike unloaded, the first proper ride for 6 months other than the parade in Trujillo.
The same energy is applied, only unloaded you are in a higher gear and moving faster.
It was 23km.
At Ancahuasi, a caldo de canero was enjoyed. The time was spent talking to a truck driver who was driving a brand new Volvo dump truck, he said Volvo do all maintenance and pay for fuel, all he did was drive it. So Volvo must have contracts with the government I figure. What a good ideas to get normal Peruanos working.
These Volvo dump trucks some with 4 axles are everywhere. He told me six years is the term, then he gets a new one.
Riding on a bit there was a traffic build up, the road was getting a new, surface of tar.
The lollipop girl let me through. Good on her.
Soon the sign to Quillarumiyoc came up, there I swung right off the highway and rode up through a village and on up to the ruins.
Quillarumiyoc – “the place of the moon stone” in Quechua – was an Inca ceremonial site dedicated to the worship of water and, more importantly, to the moon goddess “Quilla”.
The site lies about 45 minutes along a good, paved road west of Cusco, some 18 kilometres beyond the village of Anta at Kilometre 44 of the highway (2 km beyond the village of Ancahuasi). During the drive one passes a number of highland communities dedicated to livestock herding, including the village of Huarocondo, which is famous throughout the region for its roasted suckling pig. Near the village of Zurite, just off the highway, the longest agricultural terraces left to us by the Inca culture are currently the focus of an important farming project.
Quillarumiyoc itself is a fascinating site about 1 km off the highway along a dirt track accessible by road. The complex comprises a series of water channels following the course of a narrow gulley which descends from the sombre mountain overlooking the site to the valley below. These water channels flow past sacred rocks, including the great stone, carved with a geometric representation of the moon herself, which has given the site its name.
To truly understand a site like Quillarumiyoc one must begin to see it as the Incas did, and look beyond the clumsy “restoration” of the INC (National Institute of Culture) at the lower part of the complex.
The entire valley occupied by Quillarumiyoc and cut by the stream which feeds its water channels is littered with limestone outcrops – “huacas” or sacred stones – which when one looks at them as the ancients did appear to have landed there not so much from another geological region, but from another time. They stand there, enormous and imposing, some with their bases carved into simple altars and others left entirely in their natural state – for they needed no alteration from the hand of man to denote the mysterious nature one senses today and which for the Incas imbued them with religious significance.
These sacred stones litter the valley, grey and immutable like an abandoned village, all the way up to the steep slopes of the local apu, or sacred mountain, which imposes itself on the visitor wherever he might be standing and seems to insinuate itself into all the photographs one takes of the site.
Riding up to the site on the smooth hard packed track, there were all these lines in the fine gravel. They were from the cows and other animals being moved out to feed, the lines are left by the ropes most animals drag. Many people cant afford fencing so they peg the ropes to the ground to restrict the animals movement. It is common to see horses and burros with their font legs hobbled achieving the same ends.
Up at the site, the first thing that struck me was the perfection radiating from the stone retaining walls. ( the original ones) The stone was not cut, the builders must have spent hours selecting just the right stone to be placed above the last. The site was used 500 years ago.
The huge boulder, the moonstone had an arc and a small platform carved into it.
The orientation of this was due east, where the moon rises.
This sight of this, and a slow visual perusal over the site and the valley below, ones imagination flowed freely.
Soon , a couple of young kids came by to talk, they each gave me a flower.
They also gave me a story about not having any parents.
They were good kids, we mucked around and took photos .
I showed them how to make a dog drool and become totally pacified. It took awhile to get the confidence of Tigre.
Soon with me giving him a good scratch on his brisket, he fell under the spell. Dogs loved being scratched in this inaccessible spot.
I gave the kids a few soles.
Later on the way down to the highway, stopping to watch some women weave, the kids were there. Upon inquiry, the ladies said their parents live in the village.
I laughed.
Back in Izcuchaca some chifa was devoured and a minivan was caught to Cuzco, 25km away.
I wanted to confirm my lodgings. This was done, a wander was enjoyed, then a bus was caught back.
Where I’m staying is classic, there are bowls in the room to leak in. It is nothing to see some guy just leaking in the drain in the courtyard.
There are people living here, I think.
As for me, this cold weather is sending me to the loo to leak like penile diarrhea.
At least 3 times a night, blindly wandering down an alley with a rough rock pathway.
I’m sure half the time I sleep walk.
Today the 5th I meandered over to Cuzco, leaving about 1100, after having to repair a slow leak in the rear tyre.
After 5 days in town people start saying hello, especially the ladies in the panadería where I frequented, also the internet girls.
On the way over to Cuzco, a couple of young girls pulled over. They were heading north from Bolivia to possibly the US. Like me they had no firm plans other than to follow the compass.
Sarah from the US had been doing research on an endangered frog at Titicaca and Nia from Wales, I didn’t ask her.
We spoke for half an hour or more, I showed them my route on the map. Telling them not to miss the ride between Cajamarca and Chachapoyas.
Some of the most moving moments and scenery were experienced on this road.
Arriving in Cuzco, this was kind of a significant moment in this ride to Usuhaia.
It has taken me over 5 months to get here, from Medellín and another 6 weeks south from Santa Marta, on the Colombian coast.
These last 5 months have been nothing short of life changing for me, having had unlimited time to reflect on my life and those who have shared it with me.
It has been an immensely peaceful and relaxing five months.All enhanced by lots of exercise.
This time has, been like living a dream, and acquiring a basic command of a new language has been mentally stimulating to say the least..
Even when at my sickest in Huancayo, I knew this was where I wanted to be.
The next stage in the journey will be just as enjoyable in the company of Deirdre.
It was nice to have most of the first 5 months alone, this was a time for putting some thoughts and emotions in order.
It is nice to be at the Hostal Felix, shower in my room and good hot water. The internet is in the court yard, all very relaxing and a five minute walk from the Plaza de Armas.
I have found a great place to eat, for 4 soles, the people are really nice, a locals only kind of place off the street.
D73, T4, Av16, Tot16255, 6191
Yesterday morning, up early, and on the road about 0800 and heading towards Inca ruins at Ancahuasi.
It was quite strange riding the bike unloaded, the first proper ride for 6 months other than the parade in Trujillo.
The same energy is applied, only unloaded you are in a higher gear and moving faster.
It was 23km.
At Ancahuasi, a caldo de canero was enjoyed. The time was spent talking to a truck driver who was driving a brand new Volvo dump truck, he said Volvo do all maintenance and pay for fuel, all he did was drive it. So Volvo must have contracts with the government I figure. What a good ideas to get normal Peruanos working.
These Volvo dump trucks some with 4 axles are everywhere. He told me six years is the term, then he gets a new one.
Riding on a bit there was a traffic build up, the road was getting a new, surface of tar.
The lollipop girl let me through. Good on her.
Soon the sign to Quillarumiyoc came up, there I swung right off the highway and rode up through a village and on up to the ruins.
Quillarumiyoc – “the place of the moon stone” in Quechua – was an Inca ceremonial site dedicated to the worship of water and, more importantly, to the moon goddess “Quilla”.
The site lies about 45 minutes along a good, paved road west of Cusco, some 18 kilometres beyond the village of Anta at Kilometre 44 of the highway (2 km beyond the village of Ancahuasi). During the drive one passes a number of highland communities dedicated to livestock herding, including the village of Huarocondo, which is famous throughout the region for its roasted suckling pig. Near the village of Zurite, just off the highway, the longest agricultural terraces left to us by the Inca culture are currently the focus of an important farming project.
Quillarumiyoc itself is a fascinating site about 1 km off the highway along a dirt track accessible by road. The complex comprises a series of water channels following the course of a narrow gulley which descends from the sombre mountain overlooking the site to the valley below. These water channels flow past sacred rocks, including the great stone, carved with a geometric representation of the moon herself, which has given the site its name.
To truly understand a site like Quillarumiyoc one must begin to see it as the Incas did, and look beyond the clumsy “restoration” of the INC (National Institute of Culture) at the lower part of the complex.
The entire valley occupied by Quillarumiyoc and cut by the stream which feeds its water channels is littered with limestone outcrops – “huacas” or sacred stones – which when one looks at them as the ancients did appear to have landed there not so much from another geological region, but from another time. They stand there, enormous and imposing, some with their bases carved into simple altars and others left entirely in their natural state – for they needed no alteration from the hand of man to denote the mysterious nature one senses today and which for the Incas imbued them with religious significance.
These sacred stones litter the valley, grey and immutable like an abandoned village, all the way up to the steep slopes of the local apu, or sacred mountain, which imposes itself on the visitor wherever he might be standing and seems to insinuate itself into all the photographs one takes of the site.
Riding up to the site on the smooth hard packed track, there were all these lines in the fine gravel. They were from the cows and other animals being moved out to feed, the lines are left by the ropes most animals drag. Many people cant afford fencing so they peg the ropes to the ground to restrict the animals movement. It is common to see horses and burros with their font legs hobbled achieving the same ends.
Up at the site, the first thing that struck me was the perfection radiating from the stone retaining walls. ( the original ones) The stone was not cut, the builders must have spent hours selecting just the right stone to be placed above the last. The site was used 500 years ago.
The huge boulder, the moonstone had an arc and a small platform carved into it.
The orientation of this was due east, where the moon rises.
This sight of this, and a slow visual perusal over the site and the valley below, ones imagination flowed freely.
Soon , a couple of young kids came by to talk, they each gave me a flower.
They also gave me a story about not having any parents.
They were good kids, we mucked around and took photos .
I showed them how to make a dog drool and become totally pacified. It took awhile to get the confidence of Tigre.
Soon with me giving him a good scratch on his brisket, he fell under the spell. Dogs loved being scratched in this inaccessible spot.
I gave the kids a few soles.
Later on the way down to the highway, stopping to watch some women weave, the kids were there. Upon inquiry, the ladies said their parents live in the village.
I laughed.
Back in Izcuchaca some chifa was devoured and a minivan was caught to Cuzco, 25km away.
I wanted to confirm my lodgings. This was done, a wander was enjoyed, then a bus was caught back.
Where I’m staying is classic, there are bowls in the room to leak in. It is nothing to see some guy just leaking in the drain in the courtyard.
There are people living here, I think.
As for me, this cold weather is sending me to the loo to leak like penile diarrhea.
At least 3 times a night, blindly wandering down an alley with a rough rock pathway.
I’m sure half the time I sleep walk.
Today the 5th I meandered over to Cuzco, leaving about 1100, after having to repair a slow leak in the rear tyre.
After 5 days in town people start saying hello, especially the ladies in the panadería where I frequented, also the internet girls.
On the way over to Cuzco, a couple of young girls pulled over. They were heading north from Bolivia to possibly the US. Like me they had no firm plans other than to follow the compass.
Sarah from the US had been doing research on an endangered frog at Titicaca and Nia from Wales, I didn’t ask her.
We spoke for half an hour or more, I showed them my route on the map. Telling them not to miss the ride between Cajamarca and Chachapoyas.
Some of the most moving moments and scenery were experienced on this road.
Arriving in Cuzco, this was kind of a significant moment in this ride to Usuhaia.
It has taken me over 5 months to get here, from Medellín and another 6 weeks south from Santa Marta, on the Colombian coast.
These last 5 months have been nothing short of life changing for me, having had unlimited time to reflect on my life and those who have shared it with me.
It has been an immensely peaceful and relaxing five months.All enhanced by lots of exercise.
This time has, been like living a dream, and acquiring a basic command of a new language has been mentally stimulating to say the least..
Even when at my sickest in Huancayo, I knew this was where I wanted to be.
The next stage in the journey will be just as enjoyable in the company of Deirdre.
It was nice to have most of the first 5 months alone, this was a time for putting some thoughts and emotions in order.
It is nice to be at the Hostal Felix, shower in my room and good hot water. The internet is in the court yard, all very relaxing and a five minute walk from the Plaza de Armas.
I have found a great place to eat, for 4 soles, the people are really nice, a locals only kind of place off the street.
Cuzco looking east.
The girls, Sara and Nia, note Saras 20L drum rear panniers, a great idea.
The moon rock, the main road to Izcuchaca and Cuzco is in the valley below, heading left
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Historical sites for me can get a bit monotonous, time with the kids and Tigre made the visit all the more enjoyable
The Inca stone work reminded me of miniature cacti you see for sale in markets
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