1 11/7/2015 Gisenyi to Cyimbiri camp, Congo Nile trail
D35, T5 Av10.85, max46.42, 42,831 7,802
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
I finally got these writings posted and up to date on my website last night, it was a very late night, 0330 to be exact.
My phone was tethered to the laptop, the internet was very fast, faster than any internet cafe.
The big problem was that during my app updates, Canon has renewed their wifi app for their cameras. The updated version is not available in Rwanda. So, I can no longer send pics to my phone via wifi.
I had a swim in the lake which was very refreshing.
As we left town we rode around the lake shore on asphalt to the brewery then turned and got onto the trail. It was just a track. The views of Lake Kivu were stunning from the track.
Some of the climbs were extremely steep, though none of us had to get off and walk.
We passed through a number of small villages on the way. Many people were drying the small fish they catch in the lake.
At the turnoff to the lake, there was a small hydro power station in the gully it was feed by small penstocks running down the steep hill. Down at the lakeshore we got to a village and the lodge where we were going to stay. The manager said we could not camp on the lake shore infront of the village, instead we had to pay to camp inside the grounds of the lodge.
It was a beautiful place, right on the lakeshore. There were dozens of people watching us from the locked gate into the lodge. The boys and I negotiated a price and began to set up our tents. Pedro was not happy with the cost, so negotiated another price.
He had to camp a little way from the shore, however.
We did not care to much as we were tired, we thought the price was fair and wanted to settle in and have a swim.
It was one of the best campsites for a long time. The lake was remarkably clean and free from Bilharzia. The waters were a lovely temperature.
As the sunset behind a cloudy horizon, fishermen were setting nets. We had another great pasta dish.
12/7/2015 Cyimbiri camp, Congo Nile trail to Murunda
D32, T3.2 Av9.56, max28.87, 42863 7,834
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
Once again sleeping under the stars in the tent makes for a brilliant sleep. Only having had 2 hours sleep last night. I was almost asleep as I zipped the tent up at 2100.
Awake at 0530. I copied some photos across to my laptop to post on instagram. Since updated many apps on my S4. Two now don’t work. Canon in their wisdom have changed the app to use wifi on their cameras and consequently it is not available in Rwanda and map with me is not available here. So, the enjoyment I got from live feeds on instagram is gone. Hopefully, the Canon app will be available in Tanzania.
We all went in for a good swim in the lake waters and generally took our time.
In the early morning at camp the fisherman were hauling in a net, The whole village it seemed were on the shores watching. The resultant catch was minimal.
Locals had told us that very few fish are caught in the lake. This was due to overfishing in the past. We were told the government is thinking of closing the fishery for a year to let stocks recover. In the small villages we passed through all day. The people were drying fresh caught small fish from the lake .The food chain is possibly broken at this point. These fish never get a chance to mature either
Pedro had to repair something that touches the spokes on his front wheel from a rack. Bens seat was loose again. He also had a load of honey come out of a bottle in his pannier. Murphys law applies on the rough roads, if something can happen it will. One must prepare accordingly.
Sailing instiled this mentality in myself.
It was a climb back up to the trail. From here, it was pretty much climbing until 1500 hrs. The road was rough with large rocks sticking out of the surface. Pedro fell off a couple of times going up step sections. He also had to replace a rear tyre that had done 18,000km, the trye was breaking free of the wire that holds it in the rim.
Bens seat continued to come loose. In a village before the big descent into Murunda we managed to find a spring washer to solve the problem. A photo of one was the only way to describe what we wanted.
Most people out here don’t know even basic English, which is understandable, they speak their local language and a little French.
We bought peanuts here. The peanuts are not as good as those sold in Uganda, so stock up there if you like them.
.
In one coastal village, that of Nkora Fishers village we stopped for chapatti and bought avocadoes and tomatoes.
We are eating so many avocadoes, that some observations came be made. One of those is that eating two or more avocados makes one pass wind relentlessly. All of us have this problem to some extent, me especially.
There are Eucalypt trees growing almost everywhere. In one particularly small steep gully some men were felling trees and cutting the logs into timber, it was such a difficult site to be doing such dangerous work. They were wearing no shoes. One man yelled to me for some water. Our water supplies were low as well.
With all the steep climbing were are doing, my legs really ache after we stop for a period, though once riding again this soon dissipates.
Lunch was enjoyed in the heavy shade of a Eucalypt forest. A hot chocolate was so nice after the strenuous riding prior.
Once at the top of the last range we had a huge descent down into Murunda. Here the only lodge in the village was booked. It was a clean tidy place with plenty of drinking water and good privacy behind walls.
We all sat on the back balcony and took part in preparing another great pasta. Before this we enjoyed fried sweet potatoes that Cal cooked.
13/7/2015 Murunda to Rubengera
D30, T2.5 Av10.14 , max29, 42893 7,864 evening
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
It had been a comfortable night in the coolish air sleeping in my sleeping bag in the hotel room. All my riding clothes had been washed last night, initially hung outside then hung over night in the room. This method usually sees them dry in the morning.
We could not find any tomatoes or onions for the road but bought some bread. It was a slow but steady climb all morning. The countryside these people farm in so steep. Two men were seen tilling a small plot by hand. This is a sure sign the dry season is upon us. Any rain would have just washed all the soil on down the hill. Many plots were planted in sweet potatoes.
Not so many children were on this road.
At the summit we stopped at village and bought some fresh pineapples and ate them on the side of the road with the usual crowd.
Here we stocked up on tomatoes and onions. It is quite an art to see if we can transport tomatoes and avocadoes on these rough roads without them being pureed.
I have bought a good plastic container with a lock lid. As long as the tomatoes inside are packed tight and cannot move they will make the journey ok. Avocadoes are best packed tight amongst clothing or other soft material.
Coming down the hill was not as bad a yesterday the road was much better, not so many large rocks protruding from its surface. Pedro got a flat tyre on the rear. He had put a cheap Chinese tyre on and a rock had pierced the tread.
It was a short day though we were very tired and hungry on arrival in Rubengera. Here we found a great buffet restaurant. The meal was one of the best we have had for months. It was a huge balanced plate with salads and greens with fish, there was even beetroot.
We then looked for a hotel and after much negotiation secured a room at the Ubucuti lodge, it was luxury for us with an in room shower!
It was very comfortable with an ensuite, though the power was out most of the early evening. We wandered back to the same restaurant for more luxury uptake. Here they cook the buffet for lunch and keep it warm all day into the evening. So, basically you are eating the leftovers at night. Getting in at lunch time is the best.
The mosquitos here in the hotel were vicious, especially at dusk. The hotel had nets above the beds.
14/7/2015 Rubengera to Gitarama
D53, T23.3 Av14.58 , max66, 42,946 7,917
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
On leaving another final farewell to Pedro was made. He is heading to the lake at Kibuye, then down to Nyungwe National park before heading to Kigali.
It had been a great couple of weeks riding together again.
We are heading east to the capital.
Leaving town it was almost 20km to the top of the first big hill.
Many of the cyclists hauling produce were seen on the road, a few trucks and cars, Toyota coaster buses to and from Kigali and numerous pedestrians.
Somewhere going up this hill, I pulled a muscle on the top side of my thigh. Though a bit painful it was no problem. I rode Cals bike for a few km, his could have stretched the muscle, as his seat is much higher than mine.
We met up with a local road cyclist who had ridden from Kigali. He led us down the 20km descent on the other side. It was great as some of the corners were gravel.
We stayed together, till the downhill ceased. He could not speak English so communication was restricted to gestures.
We stopped for a quick bite and gave him an avocado roll.
It was difficult riding again. There is no flat land at the bottom of the hills. It is 50mk/hr down the hills and back to 5km/hr as soon as you get to the bottom and start ascending again. Wherever we stop there is always an audience gathered within 5 minutes. The locals are very quiet and are just inquisitive. Few speak English.
We had lunch under some gum trees on the road side near Nyange. I have found some great Moroccan sardines.
A bowl of chopped tomato, capsicum, onions with lots of fresh ginger, garlic and chilli flakes liberally sprinkled with black pepper and salt mixed with the sardines and their oil makes an extremely flavoursome meal on the road for lunch.
Once in the city of Gitarama, it took some time to find a suitably priced motel.
In doing so, whilst parked outside, Ben was on his bike and someone stole his thongs from under a cargo net on the rear. He was very annoyed.
We ended up staying at the Magnificat bar Hotel. Dinner was another huge buffet in town. The power went out on our way into town, people just carry on as normal in the dark.
It is amazing the number of people on the streets in the evening. Again, mosquitoes were buzzing us in the rooms. There were nets hanging above the beds, thankfully.
Water is quite a problem here. We always keep a look out for roadside wells in the villages. 5L of water from a shop is 1500 francs or $AU2.50, so it is not cheap. There is no way locals would pay this daily, so they must be getting potable water from somewhere. We think they boil it.
We use the shower water supplied at motels for cooking, as long as it is boiled.
15/7/2015 Gitarama to Nyabugogo, Kigali
D52, T3.1 Av15.68 , max74, 43,011 7,969
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
My leg had been aching during the night, it is a muscle on the top side of the thigh. I am going to have to watch this.
The puncture in my front tyre was repaired, two holes were found. The tyre has not been removed from the rim for nearly a year. The tyre had moulded onto it and was holding air like a tubless tyre. Some days it would go down a little and others none. I guess hitting bumps may have let little amounts of air out. My steering dampener spring was also replaced, it had been stretch the other day when my bike fell over.
We finally got away about 0900. The road was quite busy but safe as there was a good shoulder all the way.
We saw a few road bikers out on training rides.
My thigh was a little painful, plus I had a touch of diarrhoea, so was feeling a bit flat.
The hills were hard work.
We got to one village, there was a clothing market in progress, the guys went to have a look whilst I looked after their bikes.
Further on, we stopped at a pub for a cold coke and kebabs. My stomach was still churning and a visit was needed to the toilet.
The downhill runs were great on the very smooth tarmac. There was a great descent after we climbed from town. My hat blew off down 60km/hr. The brakes were applied heavily and a hasty return made some 200 metres up the hill before a car ran over it.
We stopped at Runda to look for accommodation, what was available was either booked or surrounded by drinkers and a garden bar.
We decided to keep riding on into Kigali, it was quite a flat ride into the outskirts of the city by Rwandan standards. We stopped at a well and filled up our water bottles with drinking water.
Another few km saw us reach the district of Nyabugogo, here we came across a lot of lodges and finally booked one after checking all of them.
It was an effort to get the bikes up the stairs, the manager kindly helped us.
We had a great meal near the taxi park, the streets here were unbelievably crowded just on dark as people were heading home. It really was like an ants nest, we were members of the colony as well.
1/7/2015 Gisenyi to Cyimbiri camp, Congo Nile trail
D35, T5 Av10.85, max46.42, 42,831 7,802
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
I finally got these writings posted and up to date on my website last night, it was a very late night, 0330 to be exact.
My phone was tethered to the laptop, the internet was very fast, faster than any internet cafe.
The big problem was that during my app updates, Canon has renewed their wifi app for their cameras. The updated version is not available in Rwanda. So, I can no longer send pics to my phone via wifi.
I had a swim in the lake which was very refreshing.
As we left town we rode around the lake shore on asphalt to the brewery then turned and got onto the trail. It was just a track. The views of Lake Kivu were stunning from the track.
Some of the climbs were extremely steep, though none of us had to get off and walk.
We passed through a number of small villages on the way. Many people were drying the small fish they catch in the lake.
At the turnoff to the lake, there was a small hydro power station in the gully it was feed by small penstocks running down the steep hill. Down at the lakeshore we got to a village and the lodge where we were going to stay. The manager said we could not camp on the lake shore infront of the village, instead we had to pay to camp inside the grounds of the lodge.
It was a beautiful place, right on the lakeshore. There were dozens of people watching us from the locked gate into the lodge. The boys and I negotiated a price and began to set up our tents. Pedro was not happy with the cost, so negotiated another price.
He had to camp a little way from the shore, however.
We did not care to much as we were tired, we thought the price was fair and wanted to settle in and have a swim.
It was one of the best campsites for a long time. The lake was remarkably clean and free from Bilharzia. The waters were a lovely temperature.
As the sunset behind a cloudy horizon, fishermen were setting nets. We had another great pasta dish.
12/7/2015 Cyimbiri camp, Congo Nile trail to Murunda
D32, T3.2 Av9.56, max28.87, 42863 7,834
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
Once again sleeping under the stars in the tent makes for a brilliant sleep. Only having had 2 hours sleep last night. I was almost asleep as I zipped the tent up at 2100.
Awake at 0530. I copied some photos across to my laptop to post on instagram. Since updated many apps on my S4. Two now don’t work. Canon in their wisdom have changed the app to use wifi on their cameras and consequently it is not available in Rwanda and map with me is not available here. So, the enjoyment I got from live feeds on instagram is gone. Hopefully, the Canon app will be available in Tanzania.
We all went in for a good swim in the lake waters and generally took our time.
In the early morning at camp the fisherman were hauling in a net, The whole village it seemed were on the shores watching. The resultant catch was minimal.
Locals had told us that very few fish are caught in the lake. This was due to overfishing in the past. We were told the government is thinking of closing the fishery for a year to let stocks recover. In the small villages we passed through all day. The people were drying fresh caught small fish from the lake .The food chain is possibly broken at this point. These fish never get a chance to mature either
Pedro had to repair something that touches the spokes on his front wheel from a rack. Bens seat was loose again. He also had a load of honey come out of a bottle in his pannier. Murphys law applies on the rough roads, if something can happen it will. One must prepare accordingly.
Sailing instiled this mentality in myself.
It was a climb back up to the trail. From here, it was pretty much climbing until 1500 hrs. The road was rough with large rocks sticking out of the surface. Pedro fell off a couple of times going up step sections. He also had to replace a rear tyre that had done 18,000km, the trye was breaking free of the wire that holds it in the rim.
Bens seat continued to come loose. In a village before the big descent into Murunda we managed to find a spring washer to solve the problem. A photo of one was the only way to describe what we wanted.
Most people out here don’t know even basic English, which is understandable, they speak their local language and a little French.
We bought peanuts here. The peanuts are not as good as those sold in Uganda, so stock up there if you like them.
.
In one coastal village, that of Nkora Fishers village we stopped for chapatti and bought avocadoes and tomatoes.
We are eating so many avocadoes, that some observations came be made. One of those is that eating two or more avocados makes one pass wind relentlessly. All of us have this problem to some extent, me especially.
There are Eucalypt trees growing almost everywhere. In one particularly small steep gully some men were felling trees and cutting the logs into timber, it was such a difficult site to be doing such dangerous work. They were wearing no shoes. One man yelled to me for some water. Our water supplies were low as well.
With all the steep climbing were are doing, my legs really ache after we stop for a period, though once riding again this soon dissipates.
Lunch was enjoyed in the heavy shade of a Eucalypt forest. A hot chocolate was so nice after the strenuous riding prior.
Once at the top of the last range we had a huge descent down into Murunda. Here the only lodge in the village was booked. It was a clean tidy place with plenty of drinking water and good privacy behind walls.
We all sat on the back balcony and took part in preparing another great pasta. Before this we enjoyed fried sweet potatoes that Cal cooked.
13/7/2015 Murunda to Rubengera
D30, T2.5 Av10.14 , max29, 42893 7,864 evening
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
It had been a comfortable night in the coolish air sleeping in my sleeping bag in the hotel room. All my riding clothes had been washed last night, initially hung outside then hung over night in the room. This method usually sees them dry in the morning.
We could not find any tomatoes or onions for the road but bought some bread. It was a slow but steady climb all morning. The countryside these people farm in so steep. Two men were seen tilling a small plot by hand. This is a sure sign the dry season is upon us. Any rain would have just washed all the soil on down the hill. Many plots were planted in sweet potatoes.
Not so many children were on this road.
At the summit we stopped at village and bought some fresh pineapples and ate them on the side of the road with the usual crowd.
Here we stocked up on tomatoes and onions. It is quite an art to see if we can transport tomatoes and avocadoes on these rough roads without them being pureed.
I have bought a good plastic container with a lock lid. As long as the tomatoes inside are packed tight and cannot move they will make the journey ok. Avocadoes are best packed tight amongst clothing or other soft material.
Coming down the hill was not as bad a yesterday the road was much better, not so many large rocks protruding from its surface. Pedro got a flat tyre on the rear. He had put a cheap Chinese tyre on and a rock had pierced the tread.
It was a short day though we were very tired and hungry on arrival in Rubengera. Here we found a great buffet restaurant. The meal was one of the best we have had for months. It was a huge balanced plate with salads and greens with fish, there was even beetroot.
We then looked for a hotel and after much negotiation secured a room at the Ubucuti lodge, it was luxury for us with an in room shower!
It was very comfortable with an ensuite, though the power was out most of the early evening. We wandered back to the same restaurant for more luxury uptake. Here they cook the buffet for lunch and keep it warm all day into the evening. So, basically you are eating the leftovers at night. Getting in at lunch time is the best.
The mosquitos here in the hotel were vicious, especially at dusk. The hotel had nets above the beds.
14/7/2015 Rubengera to Gitarama
D53, T23.3 Av14.58 , max66, 42,946 7,917
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
On leaving another final farewell to Pedro was made. He is heading to the lake at Kibuye, then down to Nyungwe National park before heading to Kigali.
It had been a great couple of weeks riding together again.
We are heading east to the capital.
Leaving town it was almost 20km to the top of the first big hill.
Many of the cyclists hauling produce were seen on the road, a few trucks and cars, Toyota coaster buses to and from Kigali and numerous pedestrians.
Somewhere going up this hill, I pulled a muscle on the top side of my thigh. Though a bit painful it was no problem. I rode Cals bike for a few km, his could have stretched the muscle, as his seat is much higher than mine.
We met up with a local road cyclist who had ridden from Kigali. He led us down the 20km descent on the other side. It was great as some of the corners were gravel.
We stayed together, till the downhill ceased. He could not speak English so communication was restricted to gestures.
We stopped for a quick bite and gave him an avocado roll.
It was difficult riding again. There is no flat land at the bottom of the hills. It is 50mk/hr down the hills and back to 5km/hr as soon as you get to the bottom and start ascending again. Wherever we stop there is always an audience gathered within 5 minutes. The locals are very quiet and are just inquisitive. Few speak English.
We had lunch under some gum trees on the road side near Nyange. I have found some great Moroccan sardines.
A bowl of chopped tomato, capsicum, onions with lots of fresh ginger, garlic and chilli flakes liberally sprinkled with black pepper and salt mixed with the sardines and their oil makes an extremely flavoursome meal on the road for lunch.
Once in the city of Gitarama, it took some time to find a suitably priced motel.
In doing so, whilst parked outside, Ben was on his bike and someone stole his thongs from under a cargo net on the rear. He was very annoyed.
We ended up staying at the Magnificat bar Hotel. Dinner was another huge buffet in town. The power went out on our way into town, people just carry on as normal in the dark.
It is amazing the number of people on the streets in the evening. Again, mosquitoes were buzzing us in the rooms. There were nets hanging above the beds, thankfully.
Water is quite a problem here. We always keep a look out for roadside wells in the villages. 5L of water from a shop is 1500 francs or $AU2.50, so it is not cheap. There is no way locals would pay this daily, so they must be getting potable water from somewhere. We think they boil it.
We use the shower water supplied at motels for cooking, as long as it is boiled.
15/7/2015 Gitarama to Nyabugogo, Kigali
D52, T3.1 Av15.68 , max74, 43,011 7,969
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
My leg had been aching during the night, it is a muscle on the top side of the thigh. I am going to have to watch this.
The puncture in my front tyre was repaired, two holes were found. The tyre has not been removed from the rim for nearly a year. The tyre had moulded onto it and was holding air like a tubless tyre. Some days it would go down a little and others none. I guess hitting bumps may have let little amounts of air out. My steering dampener spring was also replaced, it had been stretch the other day when my bike fell over.
We finally got away about 0900. The road was quite busy but safe as there was a good shoulder all the way.
We saw a few road bikers out on training rides.
My thigh was a little painful, plus I had a touch of diarrhoea, so was feeling a bit flat.
The hills were hard work.
We got to one village, there was a clothing market in progress, the guys went to have a look whilst I looked after their bikes.
Further on, we stopped at a pub for a cold coke and kebabs. My stomach was still churning and a visit was needed to the toilet.
The downhill runs were great on the very smooth tarmac. There was a great descent after we climbed from town. My hat blew off down 60km/hr. The brakes were applied heavily and a hasty return made some 200 metres up the hill before a car ran over it.
We stopped at Runda to look for accommodation, what was available was either booked or surrounded by drinkers and a garden bar.
We decided to keep riding on into Kigali, it was quite a flat ride into the outskirts of the city by Rwandan standards. We stopped at a well and filled up our water bottles with drinking water.
Another few km saw us reach the district of Nyabugogo, here we came across a lot of lodges and finally booked one after checking all of them.
It was an effort to get the bikes up the stairs, the manager kindly helped us.
We had a great meal near the taxi park, the streets here were unbelievably crowded just on dark as people were heading home. It really was like an ants nest, we were members of the colony as well.
D35, T5 Av10.85, max46.42, 42,831 7,802
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
I finally got these writings posted and up to date on my website last night, it was a very late night, 0330 to be exact.
My phone was tethered to the laptop, the internet was very fast, faster than any internet cafe.
The big problem was that during my app updates, Canon has renewed their wifi app for their cameras. The updated version is not available in Rwanda. So, I can no longer send pics to my phone via wifi.
I had a swim in the lake which was very refreshing.
As we left town we rode around the lake shore on asphalt to the brewery then turned and got onto the trail. It was just a track. The views of Lake Kivu were stunning from the track.
Some of the climbs were extremely steep, though none of us had to get off and walk.
We passed through a number of small villages on the way. Many people were drying the small fish they catch in the lake.
At the turnoff to the lake, there was a small hydro power station in the gully it was feed by small penstocks running down the steep hill. Down at the lakeshore we got to a village and the lodge where we were going to stay. The manager said we could not camp on the lake shore infront of the village, instead we had to pay to camp inside the grounds of the lodge.
It was a beautiful place, right on the lakeshore. There were dozens of people watching us from the locked gate into the lodge. The boys and I negotiated a price and began to set up our tents. Pedro was not happy with the cost, so negotiated another price.
He had to camp a little way from the shore, however.
We did not care to much as we were tired, we thought the price was fair and wanted to settle in and have a swim.
It was one of the best campsites for a long time. The lake was remarkably clean and free from Bilharzia. The waters were a lovely temperature.
As the sunset behind a cloudy horizon, fishermen were setting nets. We had another great pasta dish.
12/7/2015 Cyimbiri camp, Congo Nile trail to Murunda
D32, T3.2 Av9.56, max28.87, 42863 7,834
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
Once again sleeping under the stars in the tent makes for a brilliant sleep. Only having had 2 hours sleep last night. I was almost asleep as I zipped the tent up at 2100.
Awake at 0530. I copied some photos across to my laptop to post on instagram. Since updated many apps on my S4. Two now don’t work. Canon in their wisdom have changed the app to use wifi on their cameras and consequently it is not available in Rwanda and map with me is not available here. So, the enjoyment I got from live feeds on instagram is gone. Hopefully, the Canon app will be available in Tanzania.
We all went in for a good swim in the lake waters and generally took our time.
In the early morning at camp the fisherman were hauling in a net, The whole village it seemed were on the shores watching. The resultant catch was minimal.
Locals had told us that very few fish are caught in the lake. This was due to overfishing in the past. We were told the government is thinking of closing the fishery for a year to let stocks recover. In the small villages we passed through all day. The people were drying fresh caught small fish from the lake .The food chain is possibly broken at this point. These fish never get a chance to mature either
Pedro had to repair something that touches the spokes on his front wheel from a rack. Bens seat was loose again. He also had a load of honey come out of a bottle in his pannier. Murphys law applies on the rough roads, if something can happen it will. One must prepare accordingly.
Sailing instiled this mentality in myself.
It was a climb back up to the trail. From here, it was pretty much climbing until 1500 hrs. The road was rough with large rocks sticking out of the surface. Pedro fell off a couple of times going up step sections. He also had to replace a rear tyre that had done 18,000km, the trye was breaking free of the wire that holds it in the rim.
Bens seat continued to come loose. In a village before the big descent into Murunda we managed to find a spring washer to solve the problem. A photo of one was the only way to describe what we wanted.
Most people out here don’t know even basic English, which is understandable, they speak their local language and a little French.
We bought peanuts here. The peanuts are not as good as those sold in Uganda, so stock up there if you like them.
.
In one coastal village, that of Nkora Fishers village we stopped for chapatti and bought avocadoes and tomatoes.
We are eating so many avocadoes, that some observations came be made. One of those is that eating two or more avocados makes one pass wind relentlessly. All of us have this problem to some extent, me especially.
There are Eucalypt trees growing almost everywhere. In one particularly small steep gully some men were felling trees and cutting the logs into timber, it was such a difficult site to be doing such dangerous work. They were wearing no shoes. One man yelled to me for some water. Our water supplies were low as well.
With all the steep climbing were are doing, my legs really ache after we stop for a period, though once riding again this soon dissipates.
Lunch was enjoyed in the heavy shade of a Eucalypt forest. A hot chocolate was so nice after the strenuous riding prior.
Once at the top of the last range we had a huge descent down into Murunda. Here the only lodge in the village was booked. It was a clean tidy place with plenty of drinking water and good privacy behind walls.
We all sat on the back balcony and took part in preparing another great pasta. Before this we enjoyed fried sweet potatoes that Cal cooked.
13/7/2015 Murunda to Rubengera
D30, T2.5 Av10.14 , max29, 42893 7,864 evening
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
It had been a comfortable night in the coolish air sleeping in my sleeping bag in the hotel room. All my riding clothes had been washed last night, initially hung outside then hung over night in the room. This method usually sees them dry in the morning.
We could not find any tomatoes or onions for the road but bought some bread. It was a slow but steady climb all morning. The countryside these people farm in so steep. Two men were seen tilling a small plot by hand. This is a sure sign the dry season is upon us. Any rain would have just washed all the soil on down the hill. Many plots were planted in sweet potatoes.
Not so many children were on this road.
At the summit we stopped at village and bought some fresh pineapples and ate them on the side of the road with the usual crowd.
Here we stocked up on tomatoes and onions. It is quite an art to see if we can transport tomatoes and avocadoes on these rough roads without them being pureed.
I have bought a good plastic container with a lock lid. As long as the tomatoes inside are packed tight and cannot move they will make the journey ok. Avocadoes are best packed tight amongst clothing or other soft material.
Coming down the hill was not as bad a yesterday the road was much better, not so many large rocks protruding from its surface. Pedro got a flat tyre on the rear. He had put a cheap Chinese tyre on and a rock had pierced the tread.
It was a short day though we were very tired and hungry on arrival in Rubengera. Here we found a great buffet restaurant. The meal was one of the best we have had for months. It was a huge balanced plate with salads and greens with fish, there was even beetroot.
We then looked for a hotel and after much negotiation secured a room at the Ubucuti lodge, it was luxury for us with an in room shower!
It was very comfortable with an ensuite, though the power was out most of the early evening. We wandered back to the same restaurant for more luxury uptake. Here they cook the buffet for lunch and keep it warm all day into the evening. So, basically you are eating the leftovers at night. Getting in at lunch time is the best.
The mosquitos here in the hotel were vicious, especially at dusk. The hotel had nets above the beds.
14/7/2015 Rubengera to Gitarama
D53, T23.3 Av14.58 , max66, 42,946 7,917
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
On leaving another final farewell to Pedro was made. He is heading to the lake at Kibuye, then down to Nyungwe National park before heading to Kigali.
It had been a great couple of weeks riding together again.
We are heading east to the capital.
Leaving town it was almost 20km to the top of the first big hill.
Many of the cyclists hauling produce were seen on the road, a few trucks and cars, Toyota coaster buses to and from Kigali and numerous pedestrians.
Somewhere going up this hill, I pulled a muscle on the top side of my thigh. Though a bit painful it was no problem. I rode Cals bike for a few km, his could have stretched the muscle, as his seat is much higher than mine.
We met up with a local road cyclist who had ridden from Kigali. He led us down the 20km descent on the other side. It was great as some of the corners were gravel.
We stayed together, till the downhill ceased. He could not speak English so communication was restricted to gestures.
We stopped for a quick bite and gave him an avocado roll.
It was difficult riding again. There is no flat land at the bottom of the hills. It is 50mk/hr down the hills and back to 5km/hr as soon as you get to the bottom and start ascending again. Wherever we stop there is always an audience gathered within 5 minutes. The locals are very quiet and are just inquisitive. Few speak English.
We had lunch under some gum trees on the road side near Nyange. I have found some great Moroccan sardines.
A bowl of chopped tomato, capsicum, onions with lots of fresh ginger, garlic and chilli flakes liberally sprinkled with black pepper and salt mixed with the sardines and their oil makes an extremely flavoursome meal on the road for lunch.
Once in the city of Gitarama, it took some time to find a suitably priced motel.
In doing so, whilst parked outside, Ben was on his bike and someone stole his thongs from under a cargo net on the rear. He was very annoyed.
We ended up staying at the Magnificat bar Hotel. Dinner was another huge buffet in town. The power went out on our way into town, people just carry on as normal in the dark.
It is amazing the number of people on the streets in the evening. Again, mosquitoes were buzzing us in the rooms. There were nets hanging above the beds, thankfully.
Water is quite a problem here. We always keep a look out for roadside wells in the villages. 5L of water from a shop is 1500 francs or $AU2.50, so it is not cheap. There is no way locals would pay this daily, so they must be getting potable water from somewhere. We think they boil it.
We use the shower water supplied at motels for cooking, as long as it is boiled.
15/7/2015 Gitarama to Nyabugogo, Kigali
D52, T3.1 Av15.68 , max74, 43,011 7,969
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
My leg had been aching during the night, it is a muscle on the top side of the thigh. I am going to have to watch this.
The puncture in my front tyre was repaired, two holes were found. The tyre has not been removed from the rim for nearly a year. The tyre had moulded onto it and was holding air like a tubless tyre. Some days it would go down a little and others none. I guess hitting bumps may have let little amounts of air out. My steering dampener spring was also replaced, it had been stretch the other day when my bike fell over.
We finally got away about 0900. The road was quite busy but safe as there was a good shoulder all the way.
We saw a few road bikers out on training rides.
My thigh was a little painful, plus I had a touch of diarrhoea, so was feeling a bit flat.
The hills were hard work.
We got to one village, there was a clothing market in progress, the guys went to have a look whilst I looked after their bikes.
Further on, we stopped at a pub for a cold coke and kebabs. My stomach was still churning and a visit was needed to the toilet.
The downhill runs were great on the very smooth tarmac. There was a great descent after we climbed from town. My hat blew off down 60km/hr. The brakes were applied heavily and a hasty return made some 200 metres up the hill before a car ran over it.
We stopped at Runda to look for accommodation, what was available was either booked or surrounded by drinkers and a garden bar.
We decided to keep riding on into Kigali, it was quite a flat ride into the outskirts of the city by Rwandan standards. We stopped at a well and filled up our water bottles with drinking water.
Another few km saw us reach the district of Nyabugogo, here we came across a lot of lodges and finally booked one after checking all of them.
It was an effort to get the bikes up the stairs, the manager kindly helped us.
We had a great meal near the taxi park, the streets here were unbelievably crowded just on dark as people were heading home. It really was like an ants nest, we were members of the colony as well.
1/7/2015 Gisenyi to Cyimbiri camp, Congo Nile trail
D35, T5 Av10.85, max46.42, 42,831 7,802
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
I finally got these writings posted and up to date on my website last night, it was a very late night, 0330 to be exact.
My phone was tethered to the laptop, the internet was very fast, faster than any internet cafe.
The big problem was that during my app updates, Canon has renewed their wifi app for their cameras. The updated version is not available in Rwanda. So, I can no longer send pics to my phone via wifi.
I had a swim in the lake which was very refreshing.
As we left town we rode around the lake shore on asphalt to the brewery then turned and got onto the trail. It was just a track. The views of Lake Kivu were stunning from the track.
Some of the climbs were extremely steep, though none of us had to get off and walk.
We passed through a number of small villages on the way. Many people were drying the small fish they catch in the lake.
At the turnoff to the lake, there was a small hydro power station in the gully it was feed by small penstocks running down the steep hill. Down at the lakeshore we got to a village and the lodge where we were going to stay. The manager said we could not camp on the lake shore infront of the village, instead we had to pay to camp inside the grounds of the lodge.
It was a beautiful place, right on the lakeshore. There were dozens of people watching us from the locked gate into the lodge. The boys and I negotiated a price and began to set up our tents. Pedro was not happy with the cost, so negotiated another price.
He had to camp a little way from the shore, however.
We did not care to much as we were tired, we thought the price was fair and wanted to settle in and have a swim.
It was one of the best campsites for a long time. The lake was remarkably clean and free from Bilharzia. The waters were a lovely temperature.
As the sunset behind a cloudy horizon, fishermen were setting nets. We had another great pasta dish.
12/7/2015 Cyimbiri camp, Congo Nile trail to Murunda
D32, T3.2 Av9.56, max28.87, 42863 7,834
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
Once again sleeping under the stars in the tent makes for a brilliant sleep. Only having had 2 hours sleep last night. I was almost asleep as I zipped the tent up at 2100.
Awake at 0530. I copied some photos across to my laptop to post on instagram. Since updated many apps on my S4. Two now don’t work. Canon in their wisdom have changed the app to use wifi on their cameras and consequently it is not available in Rwanda and map with me is not available here. So, the enjoyment I got from live feeds on instagram is gone. Hopefully, the Canon app will be available in Tanzania.
We all went in for a good swim in the lake waters and generally took our time.
In the early morning at camp the fisherman were hauling in a net, The whole village it seemed were on the shores watching. The resultant catch was minimal.
Locals had told us that very few fish are caught in the lake. This was due to overfishing in the past. We were told the government is thinking of closing the fishery for a year to let stocks recover. In the small villages we passed through all day. The people were drying fresh caught small fish from the lake .The food chain is possibly broken at this point. These fish never get a chance to mature either
Pedro had to repair something that touches the spokes on his front wheel from a rack. Bens seat was loose again. He also had a load of honey come out of a bottle in his pannier. Murphys law applies on the rough roads, if something can happen it will. One must prepare accordingly.
Sailing instiled this mentality in myself.
It was a climb back up to the trail. From here, it was pretty much climbing until 1500 hrs. The road was rough with large rocks sticking out of the surface. Pedro fell off a couple of times going up step sections. He also had to replace a rear tyre that had done 18,000km, the trye was breaking free of the wire that holds it in the rim.
Bens seat continued to come loose. In a village before the big descent into Murunda we managed to find a spring washer to solve the problem. A photo of one was the only way to describe what we wanted.
Most people out here don’t know even basic English, which is understandable, they speak their local language and a little French.
We bought peanuts here. The peanuts are not as good as those sold in Uganda, so stock up there if you like them.
.
In one coastal village, that of Nkora Fishers village we stopped for chapatti and bought avocadoes and tomatoes.
We are eating so many avocadoes, that some observations came be made. One of those is that eating two or more avocados makes one pass wind relentlessly. All of us have this problem to some extent, me especially.
There are Eucalypt trees growing almost everywhere. In one particularly small steep gully some men were felling trees and cutting the logs into timber, it was such a difficult site to be doing such dangerous work. They were wearing no shoes. One man yelled to me for some water. Our water supplies were low as well.
With all the steep climbing were are doing, my legs really ache after we stop for a period, though once riding again this soon dissipates.
Lunch was enjoyed in the heavy shade of a Eucalypt forest. A hot chocolate was so nice after the strenuous riding prior.
Once at the top of the last range we had a huge descent down into Murunda. Here the only lodge in the village was booked. It was a clean tidy place with plenty of drinking water and good privacy behind walls.
We all sat on the back balcony and took part in preparing another great pasta. Before this we enjoyed fried sweet potatoes that Cal cooked.
13/7/2015 Murunda to Rubengera
D30, T2.5 Av10.14 , max29, 42893 7,864 evening
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
It had been a comfortable night in the coolish air sleeping in my sleeping bag in the hotel room. All my riding clothes had been washed last night, initially hung outside then hung over night in the room. This method usually sees them dry in the morning.
We could not find any tomatoes or onions for the road but bought some bread. It was a slow but steady climb all morning. The countryside these people farm in so steep. Two men were seen tilling a small plot by hand. This is a sure sign the dry season is upon us. Any rain would have just washed all the soil on down the hill. Many plots were planted in sweet potatoes.
Not so many children were on this road.
At the summit we stopped at village and bought some fresh pineapples and ate them on the side of the road with the usual crowd.
Here we stocked up on tomatoes and onions. It is quite an art to see if we can transport tomatoes and avocadoes on these rough roads without them being pureed.
I have bought a good plastic container with a lock lid. As long as the tomatoes inside are packed tight and cannot move they will make the journey ok. Avocadoes are best packed tight amongst clothing or other soft material.
Coming down the hill was not as bad a yesterday the road was much better, not so many large rocks protruding from its surface. Pedro got a flat tyre on the rear. He had put a cheap Chinese tyre on and a rock had pierced the tread.
It was a short day though we were very tired and hungry on arrival in Rubengera. Here we found a great buffet restaurant. The meal was one of the best we have had for months. It was a huge balanced plate with salads and greens with fish, there was even beetroot.
We then looked for a hotel and after much negotiation secured a room at the Ubucuti lodge, it was luxury for us with an in room shower!
It was very comfortable with an ensuite, though the power was out most of the early evening. We wandered back to the same restaurant for more luxury uptake. Here they cook the buffet for lunch and keep it warm all day into the evening. So, basically you are eating the leftovers at night. Getting in at lunch time is the best.
The mosquitos here in the hotel were vicious, especially at dusk. The hotel had nets above the beds.
14/7/2015 Rubengera to Gitarama
D53, T23.3 Av14.58 , max66, 42,946 7,917
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
On leaving another final farewell to Pedro was made. He is heading to the lake at Kibuye, then down to Nyungwe National park before heading to Kigali.
It had been a great couple of weeks riding together again.
We are heading east to the capital.
Leaving town it was almost 20km to the top of the first big hill.
Many of the cyclists hauling produce were seen on the road, a few trucks and cars, Toyota coaster buses to and from Kigali and numerous pedestrians.
Somewhere going up this hill, I pulled a muscle on the top side of my thigh. Though a bit painful it was no problem. I rode Cals bike for a few km, his could have stretched the muscle, as his seat is much higher than mine.
We met up with a local road cyclist who had ridden from Kigali. He led us down the 20km descent on the other side. It was great as some of the corners were gravel.
We stayed together, till the downhill ceased. He could not speak English so communication was restricted to gestures.
We stopped for a quick bite and gave him an avocado roll.
It was difficult riding again. There is no flat land at the bottom of the hills. It is 50mk/hr down the hills and back to 5km/hr as soon as you get to the bottom and start ascending again. Wherever we stop there is always an audience gathered within 5 minutes. The locals are very quiet and are just inquisitive. Few speak English.
We had lunch under some gum trees on the road side near Nyange. I have found some great Moroccan sardines.
A bowl of chopped tomato, capsicum, onions with lots of fresh ginger, garlic and chilli flakes liberally sprinkled with black pepper and salt mixed with the sardines and their oil makes an extremely flavoursome meal on the road for lunch.
Once in the city of Gitarama, it took some time to find a suitably priced motel.
In doing so, whilst parked outside, Ben was on his bike and someone stole his thongs from under a cargo net on the rear. He was very annoyed.
We ended up staying at the Magnificat bar Hotel. Dinner was another huge buffet in town. The power went out on our way into town, people just carry on as normal in the dark.
It is amazing the number of people on the streets in the evening. Again, mosquitoes were buzzing us in the rooms. There were nets hanging above the beds, thankfully.
Water is quite a problem here. We always keep a look out for roadside wells in the villages. 5L of water from a shop is 1500 francs or $AU2.50, so it is not cheap. There is no way locals would pay this daily, so they must be getting potable water from somewhere. We think they boil it.
We use the shower water supplied at motels for cooking, as long as it is boiled.
15/7/2015 Gitarama to Nyabugogo, Kigali
D52, T3.1 Av15.68 , max74, 43,011 7,969
Clear warm day, about 25 degree, sou easter blowing , cool
My leg had been aching during the night, it is a muscle on the top side of the thigh. I am going to have to watch this.
The puncture in my front tyre was repaired, two holes were found. The tyre has not been removed from the rim for nearly a year. The tyre had moulded onto it and was holding air like a tubless tyre. Some days it would go down a little and others none. I guess hitting bumps may have let little amounts of air out. My steering dampener spring was also replaced, it had been stretch the other day when my bike fell over.
We finally got away about 0900. The road was quite busy but safe as there was a good shoulder all the way.
We saw a few road bikers out on training rides.
My thigh was a little painful, plus I had a touch of diarrhoea, so was feeling a bit flat.
The hills were hard work.
We got to one village, there was a clothing market in progress, the guys went to have a look whilst I looked after their bikes.
Further on, we stopped at a pub for a cold coke and kebabs. My stomach was still churning and a visit was needed to the toilet.
The downhill runs were great on the very smooth tarmac. There was a great descent after we climbed from town. My hat blew off down 60km/hr. The brakes were applied heavily and a hasty return made some 200 metres up the hill before a car ran over it.
We stopped at Runda to look for accommodation, what was available was either booked or surrounded by drinkers and a garden bar.
We decided to keep riding on into Kigali, it was quite a flat ride into the outskirts of the city by Rwandan standards. We stopped at a well and filled up our water bottles with drinking water.
Another few km saw us reach the district of Nyabugogo, here we came across a lot of lodges and finally booked one after checking all of them.
It was an effort to get the bikes up the stairs, the manager kindly helped us.
We had a great meal near the taxi park, the streets here were unbelievably crowded just on dark as people were heading home. It really was like an ants nest, we were members of the colony as well.
