31/12/2013
Lago Cisnes to Villa O’Higgins
11km
Wet and very cold, fresh snow on tops.
It was drizzling in the morning, so we went through the removal of the inner tent procedure.
Breakfast was just coffee as we had little distance to Villa O’Higgins.
We were as wet as we had been, both having to put on wet shoes and socks and somewhat damp clothes. Though, the wind through the trees before we went to bed did help dry things we had hung out.
We were packed and on the road by about 1000.
Whilst packing, I had got quite cold.
I have a problem with my hands getting really cold and my joints aching.
On the road this coldness was starting to affect me. I was feeling a bit nauseas.
Stopping, my hands were warmed up in my groin area. Cal was fine.
It was a wet ride to Villa. We were so glad we had put in that big day yesterday.
Arriving in Villa some hour later, we pulled into the first hostal. This was Hostal El Mosco.
There were lots of other cyclists there. It was so good to be inside a warm dwelling.
The place had a great atmosphere. This was the end of the Carretera Austral, it was great to be in company for the last night of 2013.
Cal and I took a dormitory, we had it to ourselves which was great as once unpacked there was wet gear everywhere.
The afternoon was spent eating and using the net. We got and shared good information from the other cyclists there. All were heading south. All spoke of the strong winds yet to come.
Though, thankfully it was all talk about head winds they had experienced. We hope!
We all pitched in for a new year feast.
That of red wine, pork, salads, roast potato and cake.
The manager had her grandchild up staying he was a nice guy. He had an interest in English and with my interest in Spanish we enjoyed an impromptu language lesson together.
I gave him some of my books to read for the afternoon.
The evening was great, about a dozen of us sat down for the best meal we have had for two months.
The wine was flowing and so was the conversation, all over this unreal meal.
We finished eating just before the new year was welcomed.
Outside there was a bit of fireworks thing happening. It mainly consisted of flares.
I finally got to bet at 0200, having spent the later part of the night with a Belgian couple who were cycling north.
Earlier in the day Cal and I had booked the ferry to Candelario Mancilla for the 2nd of January and were looking forward to a rest day on new years day.
During the afternoon the boat company informed us it was cancelled. The only other boat was tomorrow.
We had to take it as many cyclists here earlier had problems leaving here because of the ferry not operating.
We had to take it a bit easy on our celebrations, an early start was needed to catch the ferry some 8km from the hostal at 0830.
1/1/2014 Villa O’Higgins to Candelario Mancillo
8km Tot 23,934,
Fine and cold.
It was hard work arising. We had porridge packed and left. We made it to the ferry with time to spare.
On arrival we were unpacking our gear off the bikes when I heard a splash.
Cal had dropped his tripod in the drink! He was so lucky, it was probably his least used bit of equipment. It was irretrievable in the deep milky water at the wharf.
Once onboard our bikes were secured on the foredeck.
The taxi arrived with 14 other people. Two were hikers from our hostal .
We had decided to take the trip to see Glacier Villa O’Higgins.
It was at first a pleasant passage to Candelario Mancillo, once out in the open waters of the lake the wind kicked in, coming out of the west. It was hitting the boat side on. At times it was difficult walking around the 60-70 foot vessel.
Our bikes and some stores were dropped off at Candelario Mancillo and the trip to the glacier began.
There were icebergs floating around in the lake as we got closer. The wind was now ferocious.
Once within 300m of the glacier the wind eased.
Where the light entered gaps in the ice there was a beautiful turquoise colour radiating.
The terminus of the glacier was in the lake.
It was a humbling experience to see nature on this scale so close.
How long did a piece of this ice take to make its journey here?
The terminus was a wall of tortured ice, pieces unable to suffer this torture any longer ultimately fell off, their life in the glacier was over.
They were destined to drift around in Lago Villa O’Higgins till they made the transition to water..
A rubber ducky was launched, ice collected and this was enjoyed with scotch on the decks.
Nice gesture! A nice way to further see in the new year.
Once back at Candelario, we unloaded our panniers and once they were on the bikes were headed up to a camp area on a property over looking the lago.
The Belgian couple joned us.
We had a great camp site on sweet soft grasses over looking the bay.
We were pretty much out of the wind .
Cal and I had pasta and tuna for dinner. It was not raining Hurray!!
We were both in bed before dark, both of us were totally worn out after the last 48 hours of rain, cold, late nights and good company.
2/1/2014 Candelario Mancilla, CL to Lago Del Desierto, AR
D22, T3.2/9, Av6.35, max29, Tot 23956, 14,158
Perfect day with strong wind on exposed sites
It was great to be camping on lush summer grasses.
We arose about 0800, the others had already left after saying goodbye.
We hung around till the tent dried and were on the track by about 1200.
Immigration at the police building was some 20 minutes up the track. Formalities were carried out here with no problems
A track it was, we had to walk our bikes up much of the first climb, to 600m
It was hard going and windy. It was literally just a farm track with loose road base.
Once at the top we got a very distant but stunning view of Mt Fitzroy. It was quite surreal like something out of lord of the Rings with its pencil like peak, so steep snow could not settle on it.
We sat here and enjoyed the last of our bread.
From here it was downhill but still very difficult in the loose gravel.
Rounding some corners, we got blasted by a fiercely cold wind.
After some time we entered a forest or what was left of it.
Though the canopy was almost complete, beneath it was so many dead fallen trees, some were cut up. Much of the present canopy was regrowth from fifty or sixty years ago.
The ground was almost covered with this decaying wood.
We soon came to a stream some 100m from the track, inspection revealed it held trout.
Within half an hour we had 4 good size fish, every hole held one or two fish.
These were filleted and in our stomachs soon afterwards.
They were so enjoyable as we sat on the creek bank in the warming sun.
The clear stream ambled on by. In the distance not so far away were mountains covered in patchy snow. The whole ambience and scenery typified the Patagonia we have come to know.
We soon came to the AR border, that of just a sign in a clearing
From here still in the forest the track deteriorated into just a foot track.
Roots, rocks and trees were all over its narrow width.
Most parts were unrideable.
I struggled with my freight train load of gear but managed on my own except for one steep little incline out of a creek. It was late in the day, being really tired Cal helped lug the bike to the top.
The worst thing was a rock infront of each wheel, it was so hard to initiate forward motion.
Brute strength was required.
We also encountered swamps and a few calf deep creek crossings.
I ended up with one shoe soaked whilst crossing one of these.
Coming out of the forest to a little vantage point we got the most stunning view of Fitzroy against a cloudless sky, we were very lucky. Here we made milo and ate biscuits and peanuts and were entranced by this sculpture from natures hand.
In the fore ground of this vista was Lago Del Desierto, how fitting, the scene was truly complete, an extraordinary mountain, a glassy lake, a lush forest, mountains, all draped in an azure cloudless sky.
We couldn’t go past this spot without stop for a brew and eats.
From here, it was all downhill to the AR immigration on the lake shore.
By now it was 2000 hrs, I was completely wornout and unable to coordinate properly and consequently dropped the bike on a number of occasions..
At one section a trench formed the track it was thigh deep and the panniers just squeezed through, concentration was needed to keep the front wheel straight so as they would not snag.
The whole way down was just was a half out of control gravity driven descent.
At about 2100 we were so relieved to be at the lake. The Aduanas took our passports whislt we set up camp to get the early morning sun
The boat to take us across the lake was coming at 1000 in the morning.
We ate and crashed into our sleeping bags.
I am now filling a drink bottle with boiling water to ease the pain from the cold in my fingers. It is a great idea on these nights that are everso chilled with wind.
Other people were camping around the Aduanas property, though none were cyclists.
3/12/2013 North end of Lago del Desierto to Rio
D6, T33min, Av10, Max37, tot 23,962, 14,164
Overcast, and damp
We had to get up quite early to catch the ferry. Doing so, we were ready by about 1000. We were told the boat would not be here to 1200.
We had no option but to wait. The early morning had revealed Fitzroy against a burnt sky, again it was a surreal scene.
Though as the day progressed, it slowly disappeared behind cloud. We were so lucky yesterday.
When the boat did arrive, it was a small tourist aluminium vessel.
We put my bike onboard but it was to heavy. We worked it out that with us and the bikes it was another 4 people, it was overloaded.
The owner radio back to the south side of the lake. There was another bigger boat at 1500.
We carried out a few repairs to the bikes, Cal had a fish and caught a lovely trout off the wharf. It was released.
Time was spent chatting with Thomas and Marina a young couple from BA. They were hiking around the area.
On the first boat we were chatting with an Australian couple who were travelling to Antarctica after here.
It is quite amusing meeting some people.
Back at Candelario Mancilla we met an older guy walking. We were both talking to each other in Spanish. He then said, can you speak English. We laughed when we both found we were from Australia.
It is like that now, most conversations are started in Spanish until we realize we both speak English.
Once at the southern shore, after the 40 minute trip, we headed up to a camp area.
Here a couple of older guys were in a little shelter selling asado beef and Chorizo in bread.
We ordered a steak each.
This would have to have possibly been the best BBQ steak I have ever had, the meat was rare and literally dissolved in my mouth.
It was cooked over wood, the two guys were characters, they knew what they were doing. The simplicity of the meal was one of its greatest attributes. There was no need to do much with such delectable steak other than put in it a fresh baguette.
Cal and I couldn’t shut up as to how good they were. So good we ordered a Chorizo to back it up.
We rode off from here feeling so satisfied from a hunger point of view.
Some 5km up the road to El Chaltén, we found a track from the gavel track heading from the road.
This lead to the river coming from the lake.
Here we found a great campsite on the side of the river. It was nice to be camping alongside clear rivers again.
In this area all trout must be released. The area must be famous for fishing as there were fishers everywhere with fly roads.
Back at the northern end of the lake one party that disembarked were fishing with a guide, they were decked out to the nines. And were going up to fish Laguna Largo.
This is the lago where Arroyo del Caballo flowed from where we caught our fish.
The later part of the day was misty and rain was doing its best to wet us.
Dinner was soup. Those steaks still sat sweetly in our stomachs.
The sound of a river once again put us to sleep.
Back at Hostal Mosco I swapped a couple of English novels, one a booker prize winner, the other, a romance.
I am ploughing through the latter at the moment, it is amusing reading it. I have a craving to read English books before sleeping.
I am looking forward to starting the second, The Cats Table, by Micheal Ondaatje.
4/1/2013 Rio Chalten to 72km sth of El Chaltén
D72, T3.5/8, Av18.25, max61, Tot 24034, 14,236
Windy with some cloud
Time was moving very slowly around camp, Cal replaced his brake pads, I had a shave and we generally just pottered about over mate and our breakfast. We finally got away about 1100.
The sun was up and things warmed up, a dry tent was packed. Back on the road, still gravel, the wind was pushing us along almost dangerously. Mt Fitzroy was shrouded in cloud again.
The road had large loose stones on its surface, without the tail wind it would have been hard work.
We were looking forward to arriving in El Chaltén, it marks the end of gravel roads for the last few weeks.
We literally got blown into town.
Once there we checked out accommodation. All the low end stuff was booked out. We were not keen on a tiny dormitory with all our gear.
We both bought some woollen gloves.
We decided not to stay here. The town was incredibly touristy with backpackers and trekkers everywhere.
A couple of hours were spent in a restaurant off the main street, enjoying terrific pizzas.
These and bottled coke were great after a few days on the road.
The wifi was used but it was difficult even googling a topic, it was so slow.
From here, we bought groceries.
It is so good to be back in Argentina where even in a tourist town like this things are so much cheaper than in Chile.
We finally got away about 1800 and rode till about 2045, moving along at a rapid rate of knots aided by the same norwester. We were often pedalling along at 40km/hr.
We realised just how strong the wind was when stopped.
The terrain is more or less desert with grasses and shrubs present, no trees. The area is called Meseto del Viento, or plateau of the wind, aptly named.
Come 2030 we came across a gravel pit, this was the best we could find as far as camping was concerned. It was very difficult to get completely out of the wind.
Even forty foot below ground level, the wind was still swirling.
Setting up camp was rather tricky in the flukey wind.
Bread and sardines were had for dinner. We could see Mt Fitzroy clearly though not wholly from out of the pit.
A large glacier could also be seen in the distance. The landscape is truly awe-inspiring.
A windy night was ahead we guessed.
5/1/2014 Gravel pit to a wool shed near Rio La Leona
D130, T5.5/11, Av22.36, Max63, Tot 24,164, 14,366
Fine, howling N’wester
It had been a night of flapping synthetics, the wind never really let up. When it did, it was for an hour before daylight. Up about 0600, I climbed up out of our hole to see if Fitzroy was clear, there was still a cloud above her. Though, the morning sunrise cast interesting light upon the scene. The glacier could be seen clearly.
The water we got from a river yesterday, had been unfiltered, I had felt a bit off during the night.
For me, breakfast was only coffee from the town water from El Chaltén. Cal had porridge with the river water, he had felt ok.
We were actually out of the locale by 0800.
No sooner than we hit the road, we were being blown along. It was easy to maintain a speed on the flat road of 30 to 40km with little effort. We both agreed a higher gear would have been handy.
Water was a scarce commodity out here.
The huge milky lago Viedma was on our right most of the morning.
We stopped at a creek to filter water, so as to fill all available water vessels. We spotted a trout in a hole.
So, while I filtered water, Cal headed off for a fish. We ended up with 3 trout. These were filleted, bagged and put in a pannier for lunch.
Back in this arid environment many plants have thorns or extremely friendly burs that attach themselves to your socks. One of these burs can mean the difference between comfort and annoyance whilst pedalling.
The only life out here was at the odd estancia surrounded by trees and an occassional domestic livestock.
Cal did see some of the small Emu type birds at one point.
Soon we came to the intersection at Punta del Lago. This right hand turn put us side on to the wind. Speed went from 30 plus to 10km/hr.
We pushed through to La Leone. With the side wind, the road only had to veer a few degrees and it was just over our right shoulder, this helped so much.
It was not cold and when the sun was out it was quite hot. We were riding in shorts and shirts. It was cold if you stopped and actually felt the wind.
At La Leona we stopped in a cutting out of the wind for lunch .
We had done 80km by 1500, no problems. My effort had only been supplemented with a bag of peanuts and a coffee. This with an exceptionally strong tailwind much of the way.
We stopped for an hour and drank milo and heaps of mate with the sweet filtered creek water. The trout was a treat in bread rolls with Tabasco.
The terrain now had a few large gentle climbs, the wind was slightly over our shoulders. At about 1830 we decided to look for a camp.
None was found until we came to the Rio La Leona, here we left the road and dropped down to the river bank of the large glacial fed flow of milk.
Some guys were fishing under the bridge.
We parked under some Willows and ate some nuts and dulce and anchovies with crackers. We were trashed but felt great after the huge day of 130km, our biggest ride yet.
It was still blowing, this was an ok camp but still exposed.
I wandered back up the track, to check out a shed.
On arrival, it was seen to be a wool shed.
Constructed of iron and wood. The timber floor inside was covered in small dags. It was not locked. This would be great just to have a break from the wind. It truly can drive you loco.
We were able to set the tent up in here. This would keep the odd mouse at bay.
Cal cooked up a brilliant curried pasta and tuna. We drank heaps of tea.
This place was like paradise out of the wind.
I write this in the morning, outside it is raining and blowing a fierce gale, we are cosy and dry. Rattling iron could be heard on the shed. The wind was incredibly strong, we had decided not to vacate our refuge if it got stronger.
Once again my mind thinks of an eagle feather, how we have again been looked after.
Had we been under the Willow tree by the river, we could have lost everything in the front. If the tent pegs came free in the sand, the drama does not bear thought.
Throughout this journey, good fortune has been my companion on many occasions.
Just the other, day before Villa O’Higgins in the wet I said to Cal we need shelter to have cup of milo and eat. Around a couple of corners by a river was the little block building that housed an epitaph to a lost one.
This gave us shelter from the cold rain and wind. Thanks to the relatives of the deceased, we were able to seek refuge and replenish our cold wet bodies out of the wind.
6/1/2013 Woolshed to El Calafate, AR
D55, T4/7, Av 12.09, Max59, Tot 24,219, 14,421
Very cold with 45km/hr westerlies, wet morning
We were reluctant to leave our shelter. O ver breakfast, the wind did abate and the sun showed itself.
The road took us south east till the intersection with Ruta 11, here it would take us in a westerly direction to El Calafate and proper refuge.
We knew only to well that this last 30km into this fiercely relentless westerly off the mountais was going to be tough.
There was a front off in the distance over the milky waters of Lago Argentino as we left the shed.
We were pushed along nicely with the wind nearly over ouf right shoulders. It was really a beam reach. Our bikes were heeled heavy in the gusts.
As usual my hands were feeling the cold and as usual they began to stop feeling it, as they became numb. It was time to put on my neoprene diving gloves.
My leggings were also donned.
Traffic was reasonably heavy and travelling a a great speed. The road was narrow and without a shoulder.
The wind gusts saw us veering intothe middle of our lne at times, we hd little control over the situation.
At least the wind was somewhat of an aid.
Coming to the intersection some 20km later all this ended we were riding directly into the invisible onslaught of air.
Speed went from 25km to 8km.
We stopped to have a chat at the road sign. El Calafate and a hostal were going to be very very welcome on arrival.
At first we draughted each other for 2km stints. After awhile this just got too much.
It was a case of finding our own sustainable speed and just zoning out to another place.
Eyes were on the asphalt just ahead of the front wheel. My mind was on everything but the situation that existed.
Gusts blew us often onto the gravel shoulder. Some cars had to slow down as two apparently drunk cyclists were making their way along the highway.
Any thought of how bad it was was not to be entertained.
We stopped twice to eat, this was sapping energy rapidly.
Some reprieve was given in slight gullies, though on the ascent out a hammering was received.
We were both out of water once we reached the shores of Lago Argentino.
At the police check point into town we asked for water. The contents of my bottle fell down my throat like water at the top of a waterfall.
In two years of riding this short stint into this wind was one of the hardest ordeals yet.
Give me hills with 50 km of climbing over riding into head winds any day.
This could only be the start of these conditions as we head further south. Any road taking us west will most likely be similar.
Arriving in El Calafate we immediately looked for a hostal. The first was full. They told us of another, so luckily we got the last room.
It was a homely setup, and oh so warm inside.
If here try the hostal Jorgito, if you want a comfortable affordable place to stay.
We were both worn out. Cal fell on the bed and I fell asleep at the kitchen table infront of my computer.
Sometime later we headed into town to buy dinner, that of good steak and geens to cook back at the hostal.
Another guest and his girlfriend both from Bogota had been blown off their moto, he had his leg in plaster, she was fine.
A hot shower after six days of boats, pushing our bikes, wind, rain and gravel was like a thousand tiny hands massaging our bodies as the hot water fell from the shower rose.
We are now at nearly 51 degrees latitude south, well south of Stewart Island in NZ and half a continent south of Coffs Harbour my home in Australia.
Understandably, conditions are able to deteriorate rapidly. We feel we are prepared for this.
Cal said I wished him goodnight and was snoring a minute later.
11km
Wet and very cold, fresh snow on tops.
It was drizzling in the morning, so we went through the removal of the inner tent procedure.
Breakfast was just coffee as we had little distance to Villa O’Higgins.
We were as wet as we had been, both having to put on wet shoes and socks and somewhat damp clothes. Though, the wind through the trees before we went to bed did help dry things we had hung out.
We were packed and on the road by about 1000.
Whilst packing, I had got quite cold.
I have a problem with my hands getting really cold and my joints aching.
On the road this coldness was starting to affect me. I was feeling a bit nauseas.
Stopping, my hands were warmed up in my groin area. Cal was fine.
It was a wet ride to Villa. We were so glad we had put in that big day yesterday.
Arriving in Villa some hour later, we pulled into the first hostal. This was Hostal El Mosco.
There were lots of other cyclists there. It was so good to be inside a warm dwelling.
The place had a great atmosphere. This was the end of the Carretera Austral, it was great to be in company for the last night of 2013.
Cal and I took a dormitory, we had it to ourselves which was great as once unpacked there was wet gear everywhere.
The afternoon was spent eating and using the net. We got and shared good information from the other cyclists there. All were heading south. All spoke of the strong winds yet to come.
Though, thankfully it was all talk about head winds they had experienced. We hope!
We all pitched in for a new year feast.
That of red wine, pork, salads, roast potato and cake.
The manager had her grandchild up staying he was a nice guy. He had an interest in English and with my interest in Spanish we enjoyed an impromptu language lesson together.
I gave him some of my books to read for the afternoon.
The evening was great, about a dozen of us sat down for the best meal we have had for two months.
The wine was flowing and so was the conversation, all over this unreal meal.
We finished eating just before the new year was welcomed.
Outside there was a bit of fireworks thing happening. It mainly consisted of flares.
I finally got to bet at 0200, having spent the later part of the night with a Belgian couple who were cycling north.
Earlier in the day Cal and I had booked the ferry to Candelario Mancilla for the 2nd of January and were looking forward to a rest day on new years day.
During the afternoon the boat company informed us it was cancelled. The only other boat was tomorrow.
We had to take it as many cyclists here earlier had problems leaving here because of the ferry not operating.
We had to take it a bit easy on our celebrations, an early start was needed to catch the ferry some 8km from the hostal at 0830.
1/1/2014 Villa O’Higgins to Candelario Mancillo
8km Tot 23,934,
Fine and cold.
It was hard work arising. We had porridge packed and left. We made it to the ferry with time to spare.
On arrival we were unpacking our gear off the bikes when I heard a splash.
Cal had dropped his tripod in the drink! He was so lucky, it was probably his least used bit of equipment. It was irretrievable in the deep milky water at the wharf.
Once onboard our bikes were secured on the foredeck.
The taxi arrived with 14 other people. Two were hikers from our hostal .
We had decided to take the trip to see Glacier Villa O’Higgins.
It was at first a pleasant passage to Candelario Mancillo, once out in the open waters of the lake the wind kicked in, coming out of the west. It was hitting the boat side on. At times it was difficult walking around the 60-70 foot vessel.
Our bikes and some stores were dropped off at Candelario Mancillo and the trip to the glacier began.
There were icebergs floating around in the lake as we got closer. The wind was now ferocious.
Once within 300m of the glacier the wind eased.
Where the light entered gaps in the ice there was a beautiful turquoise colour radiating.
The terminus of the glacier was in the lake.
It was a humbling experience to see nature on this scale so close.
How long did a piece of this ice take to make its journey here?
The terminus was a wall of tortured ice, pieces unable to suffer this torture any longer ultimately fell off, their life in the glacier was over.
They were destined to drift around in Lago Villa O’Higgins till they made the transition to water..
A rubber ducky was launched, ice collected and this was enjoyed with scotch on the decks.
Nice gesture! A nice way to further see in the new year.
Once back at Candelario, we unloaded our panniers and once they were on the bikes were headed up to a camp area on a property over looking the lago.
The Belgian couple joned us.
We had a great camp site on sweet soft grasses over looking the bay.
We were pretty much out of the wind .
Cal and I had pasta and tuna for dinner. It was not raining Hurray!!
We were both in bed before dark, both of us were totally worn out after the last 48 hours of rain, cold, late nights and good company.
2/1/2014 Candelario Mancilla, CL to Lago Del Desierto, AR
D22, T3.2/9, Av6.35, max29, Tot 23956, 14,158
Perfect day with strong wind on exposed sites
It was great to be camping on lush summer grasses.
We arose about 0800, the others had already left after saying goodbye.
We hung around till the tent dried and were on the track by about 1200.
Immigration at the police building was some 20 minutes up the track. Formalities were carried out here with no problems
A track it was, we had to walk our bikes up much of the first climb, to 600m
It was hard going and windy. It was literally just a farm track with loose road base.
Once at the top we got a very distant but stunning view of Mt Fitzroy. It was quite surreal like something out of lord of the Rings with its pencil like peak, so steep snow could not settle on it.
We sat here and enjoyed the last of our bread.
From here it was downhill but still very difficult in the loose gravel.
Rounding some corners, we got blasted by a fiercely cold wind.
After some time we entered a forest or what was left of it.
Though the canopy was almost complete, beneath it was so many dead fallen trees, some were cut up. Much of the present canopy was regrowth from fifty or sixty years ago.
The ground was almost covered with this decaying wood.
We soon came to a stream some 100m from the track, inspection revealed it held trout.
Within half an hour we had 4 good size fish, every hole held one or two fish.
These were filleted and in our stomachs soon afterwards.
They were so enjoyable as we sat on the creek bank in the warming sun.
The clear stream ambled on by. In the distance not so far away were mountains covered in patchy snow. The whole ambience and scenery typified the Patagonia we have come to know.
We soon came to the AR border, that of just a sign in a clearing
From here still in the forest the track deteriorated into just a foot track.
Roots, rocks and trees were all over its narrow width.
Most parts were unrideable.
I struggled with my freight train load of gear but managed on my own except for one steep little incline out of a creek. It was late in the day, being really tired Cal helped lug the bike to the top.
The worst thing was a rock infront of each wheel, it was so hard to initiate forward motion.
Brute strength was required.
We also encountered swamps and a few calf deep creek crossings.
I ended up with one shoe soaked whilst crossing one of these.
Coming out of the forest to a little vantage point we got the most stunning view of Fitzroy against a cloudless sky, we were very lucky. Here we made milo and ate biscuits and peanuts and were entranced by this sculpture from natures hand.
In the fore ground of this vista was Lago Del Desierto, how fitting, the scene was truly complete, an extraordinary mountain, a glassy lake, a lush forest, mountains, all draped in an azure cloudless sky.
We couldn’t go past this spot without stop for a brew and eats.
From here, it was all downhill to the AR immigration on the lake shore.
By now it was 2000 hrs, I was completely wornout and unable to coordinate properly and consequently dropped the bike on a number of occasions..
At one section a trench formed the track it was thigh deep and the panniers just squeezed through, concentration was needed to keep the front wheel straight so as they would not snag.
The whole way down was just was a half out of control gravity driven descent.
At about 2100 we were so relieved to be at the lake. The Aduanas took our passports whislt we set up camp to get the early morning sun
The boat to take us across the lake was coming at 1000 in the morning.
We ate and crashed into our sleeping bags.
I am now filling a drink bottle with boiling water to ease the pain from the cold in my fingers. It is a great idea on these nights that are everso chilled with wind.
Other people were camping around the Aduanas property, though none were cyclists.
3/12/2013 North end of Lago del Desierto to Rio
D6, T33min, Av10, Max37, tot 23,962, 14,164
Overcast, and damp
We had to get up quite early to catch the ferry. Doing so, we were ready by about 1000. We were told the boat would not be here to 1200.
We had no option but to wait. The early morning had revealed Fitzroy against a burnt sky, again it was a surreal scene.
Though as the day progressed, it slowly disappeared behind cloud. We were so lucky yesterday.
When the boat did arrive, it was a small tourist aluminium vessel.
We put my bike onboard but it was to heavy. We worked it out that with us and the bikes it was another 4 people, it was overloaded.
The owner radio back to the south side of the lake. There was another bigger boat at 1500.
We carried out a few repairs to the bikes, Cal had a fish and caught a lovely trout off the wharf. It was released.
Time was spent chatting with Thomas and Marina a young couple from BA. They were hiking around the area.
On the first boat we were chatting with an Australian couple who were travelling to Antarctica after here.
It is quite amusing meeting some people.
Back at Candelario Mancilla we met an older guy walking. We were both talking to each other in Spanish. He then said, can you speak English. We laughed when we both found we were from Australia.
It is like that now, most conversations are started in Spanish until we realize we both speak English.
Once at the southern shore, after the 40 minute trip, we headed up to a camp area.
Here a couple of older guys were in a little shelter selling asado beef and Chorizo in bread.
We ordered a steak each.
This would have to have possibly been the best BBQ steak I have ever had, the meat was rare and literally dissolved in my mouth.
It was cooked over wood, the two guys were characters, they knew what they were doing. The simplicity of the meal was one of its greatest attributes. There was no need to do much with such delectable steak other than put in it a fresh baguette.
Cal and I couldn’t shut up as to how good they were. So good we ordered a Chorizo to back it up.
We rode off from here feeling so satisfied from a hunger point of view.
Some 5km up the road to El Chaltén, we found a track from the gavel track heading from the road.
This lead to the river coming from the lake.
Here we found a great campsite on the side of the river. It was nice to be camping alongside clear rivers again.
In this area all trout must be released. The area must be famous for fishing as there were fishers everywhere with fly roads.
Back at the northern end of the lake one party that disembarked were fishing with a guide, they were decked out to the nines. And were going up to fish Laguna Largo.
This is the lago where Arroyo del Caballo flowed from where we caught our fish.
The later part of the day was misty and rain was doing its best to wet us.
Dinner was soup. Those steaks still sat sweetly in our stomachs.
The sound of a river once again put us to sleep.
Back at Hostal Mosco I swapped a couple of English novels, one a booker prize winner, the other, a romance.
I am ploughing through the latter at the moment, it is amusing reading it. I have a craving to read English books before sleeping.
I am looking forward to starting the second, The Cats Table, by Micheal Ondaatje.
4/1/2013 Rio Chalten to 72km sth of El Chaltén
D72, T3.5/8, Av18.25, max61, Tot 24034, 14,236
Windy with some cloud
Time was moving very slowly around camp, Cal replaced his brake pads, I had a shave and we generally just pottered about over mate and our breakfast. We finally got away about 1100.
The sun was up and things warmed up, a dry tent was packed. Back on the road, still gravel, the wind was pushing us along almost dangerously. Mt Fitzroy was shrouded in cloud again.
The road had large loose stones on its surface, without the tail wind it would have been hard work.
We were looking forward to arriving in El Chaltén, it marks the end of gravel roads for the last few weeks.
We literally got blown into town.
Once there we checked out accommodation. All the low end stuff was booked out. We were not keen on a tiny dormitory with all our gear.
We both bought some woollen gloves.
We decided not to stay here. The town was incredibly touristy with backpackers and trekkers everywhere.
A couple of hours were spent in a restaurant off the main street, enjoying terrific pizzas.
These and bottled coke were great after a few days on the road.
The wifi was used but it was difficult even googling a topic, it was so slow.
From here, we bought groceries.
It is so good to be back in Argentina where even in a tourist town like this things are so much cheaper than in Chile.
We finally got away about 1800 and rode till about 2045, moving along at a rapid rate of knots aided by the same norwester. We were often pedalling along at 40km/hr.
We realised just how strong the wind was when stopped.
The terrain is more or less desert with grasses and shrubs present, no trees. The area is called Meseto del Viento, or plateau of the wind, aptly named.
Come 2030 we came across a gravel pit, this was the best we could find as far as camping was concerned. It was very difficult to get completely out of the wind.
Even forty foot below ground level, the wind was still swirling.
Setting up camp was rather tricky in the flukey wind.
Bread and sardines were had for dinner. We could see Mt Fitzroy clearly though not wholly from out of the pit.
A large glacier could also be seen in the distance. The landscape is truly awe-inspiring.
A windy night was ahead we guessed.
5/1/2014 Gravel pit to a wool shed near Rio La Leona
D130, T5.5/11, Av22.36, Max63, Tot 24,164, 14,366
Fine, howling N’wester
It had been a night of flapping synthetics, the wind never really let up. When it did, it was for an hour before daylight. Up about 0600, I climbed up out of our hole to see if Fitzroy was clear, there was still a cloud above her. Though, the morning sunrise cast interesting light upon the scene. The glacier could be seen clearly.
The water we got from a river yesterday, had been unfiltered, I had felt a bit off during the night.
For me, breakfast was only coffee from the town water from El Chaltén. Cal had porridge with the river water, he had felt ok.
We were actually out of the locale by 0800.
No sooner than we hit the road, we were being blown along. It was easy to maintain a speed on the flat road of 30 to 40km with little effort. We both agreed a higher gear would have been handy.
Water was a scarce commodity out here.
The huge milky lago Viedma was on our right most of the morning.
We stopped at a creek to filter water, so as to fill all available water vessels. We spotted a trout in a hole.
So, while I filtered water, Cal headed off for a fish. We ended up with 3 trout. These were filleted, bagged and put in a pannier for lunch.
Back in this arid environment many plants have thorns or extremely friendly burs that attach themselves to your socks. One of these burs can mean the difference between comfort and annoyance whilst pedalling.
The only life out here was at the odd estancia surrounded by trees and an occassional domestic livestock.
Cal did see some of the small Emu type birds at one point.
Soon we came to the intersection at Punta del Lago. This right hand turn put us side on to the wind. Speed went from 30 plus to 10km/hr.
We pushed through to La Leone. With the side wind, the road only had to veer a few degrees and it was just over our right shoulder, this helped so much.
It was not cold and when the sun was out it was quite hot. We were riding in shorts and shirts. It was cold if you stopped and actually felt the wind.
At La Leona we stopped in a cutting out of the wind for lunch .
We had done 80km by 1500, no problems. My effort had only been supplemented with a bag of peanuts and a coffee. This with an exceptionally strong tailwind much of the way.
We stopped for an hour and drank milo and heaps of mate with the sweet filtered creek water. The trout was a treat in bread rolls with Tabasco.
The terrain now had a few large gentle climbs, the wind was slightly over our shoulders. At about 1830 we decided to look for a camp.
None was found until we came to the Rio La Leona, here we left the road and dropped down to the river bank of the large glacial fed flow of milk.
Some guys were fishing under the bridge.
We parked under some Willows and ate some nuts and dulce and anchovies with crackers. We were trashed but felt great after the huge day of 130km, our biggest ride yet.
It was still blowing, this was an ok camp but still exposed.
I wandered back up the track, to check out a shed.
On arrival, it was seen to be a wool shed.
Constructed of iron and wood. The timber floor inside was covered in small dags. It was not locked. This would be great just to have a break from the wind. It truly can drive you loco.
We were able to set the tent up in here. This would keep the odd mouse at bay.
Cal cooked up a brilliant curried pasta and tuna. We drank heaps of tea.
This place was like paradise out of the wind.
I write this in the morning, outside it is raining and blowing a fierce gale, we are cosy and dry. Rattling iron could be heard on the shed. The wind was incredibly strong, we had decided not to vacate our refuge if it got stronger.
Once again my mind thinks of an eagle feather, how we have again been looked after.
Had we been under the Willow tree by the river, we could have lost everything in the front. If the tent pegs came free in the sand, the drama does not bear thought.
Throughout this journey, good fortune has been my companion on many occasions.
Just the other, day before Villa O’Higgins in the wet I said to Cal we need shelter to have cup of milo and eat. Around a couple of corners by a river was the little block building that housed an epitaph to a lost one.
This gave us shelter from the cold rain and wind. Thanks to the relatives of the deceased, we were able to seek refuge and replenish our cold wet bodies out of the wind.
6/1/2013 Woolshed to El Calafate, AR
D55, T4/7, Av 12.09, Max59, Tot 24,219, 14,421
Very cold with 45km/hr westerlies, wet morning
We were reluctant to leave our shelter. O ver breakfast, the wind did abate and the sun showed itself.
The road took us south east till the intersection with Ruta 11, here it would take us in a westerly direction to El Calafate and proper refuge.
We knew only to well that this last 30km into this fiercely relentless westerly off the mountais was going to be tough.
There was a front off in the distance over the milky waters of Lago Argentino as we left the shed.
We were pushed along nicely with the wind nearly over ouf right shoulders. It was really a beam reach. Our bikes were heeled heavy in the gusts.
As usual my hands were feeling the cold and as usual they began to stop feeling it, as they became numb. It was time to put on my neoprene diving gloves.
My leggings were also donned.
Traffic was reasonably heavy and travelling a a great speed. The road was narrow and without a shoulder.
The wind gusts saw us veering intothe middle of our lne at times, we hd little control over the situation.
At least the wind was somewhat of an aid.
Coming to the intersection some 20km later all this ended we were riding directly into the invisible onslaught of air.
Speed went from 25km to 8km.
We stopped to have a chat at the road sign. El Calafate and a hostal were going to be very very welcome on arrival.
At first we draughted each other for 2km stints. After awhile this just got too much.
It was a case of finding our own sustainable speed and just zoning out to another place.
Eyes were on the asphalt just ahead of the front wheel. My mind was on everything but the situation that existed.
Gusts blew us often onto the gravel shoulder. Some cars had to slow down as two apparently drunk cyclists were making their way along the highway.
Any thought of how bad it was was not to be entertained.
We stopped twice to eat, this was sapping energy rapidly.
Some reprieve was given in slight gullies, though on the ascent out a hammering was received.
We were both out of water once we reached the shores of Lago Argentino.
At the police check point into town we asked for water. The contents of my bottle fell down my throat like water at the top of a waterfall.
In two years of riding this short stint into this wind was one of the hardest ordeals yet.
Give me hills with 50 km of climbing over riding into head winds any day.
This could only be the start of these conditions as we head further south. Any road taking us west will most likely be similar.
Arriving in El Calafate we immediately looked for a hostal. The first was full. They told us of another, so luckily we got the last room.
It was a homely setup, and oh so warm inside.
If here try the hostal Jorgito, if you want a comfortable affordable place to stay.
We were both worn out. Cal fell on the bed and I fell asleep at the kitchen table infront of my computer.
Sometime later we headed into town to buy dinner, that of good steak and geens to cook back at the hostal.
Another guest and his girlfriend both from Bogota had been blown off their moto, he had his leg in plaster, she was fine.
A hot shower after six days of boats, pushing our bikes, wind, rain and gravel was like a thousand tiny hands massaging our bodies as the hot water fell from the shower rose.
We are now at nearly 51 degrees latitude south, well south of Stewart Island in NZ and half a continent south of Coffs Harbour my home in Australia.
Understandably, conditions are able to deteriorate rapidly. We feel we are prepared for this.
Cal said I wished him goodnight and was snoring a minute later.
Motaña Fitzroy with lago Del Desierto in the foreground, We were lucky to have had such a perfect day here.
The sign says it all, here at the end of the road, Lago O'Higgins
 A little scotch on glacier O'Higgins, please
 camping on the estacion at Candilario Mancilla
 We were blown away with our first siting of Fitzroy
 Talk about bush walking, we just happen to have bikes with us.
 Small fish but in perfect condition
 Summer love on the shores of Lago Del Desierto, AR
 Rio Toro a few km after disembarking from the ferry. This stream is heavily fished
 El Chaltén on the way out of town looking back.
 Back on the Argentine roads, great riding if you have the westerlies aft of your shoulders, that we did!
 Mate ( pronounced martay, drunk from a mate with a bombilla) and trout rolls for lunch near the hotel La Leona.
 Ready for the ride to El Calafate
 Estancias were the only points of reference in the otherwise undulating arid environment
 A "downwind" kind of smile
 Thinking about what lay ahead, to leave or not to leave?
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 Glacier O'Higgins windy and very cold , the vessel took us very close, 300m.
 Aduanas Chilenas near Candelario Mancilla
 Physical border in the bush.
 We had to stop here for lunch and just take it all in.
 Timber littered the forest floor.
 Lunch by the creek
 The night before taking the boat across Lago Del Desierto
 The "pit stop' first night out of El Chaltén
 Catching lunch, with Lago Viedma in the background. We filtered water for the day here, how sweet it was.
 This wool shed like a four star hotel, it offered us shelter from the wind and just the best nights sleep. The night before El Calafate.
 El Calafate was behind this front across Lago Argentino
 A "berg" well down wind from its birthplace from the glacier on Lago Villa O'Higgins
 Filling in spare time, this fish was caught from the wharf at the northern end of Lago Del Desierto. Incidentally it got to swim in the lake moments after this shot was taken.
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i didn't even noticed that pole trying to steal the limelight! Early morning, southerly view from the shores of Lago Del Desierto
