browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
31/12/2013 Lago Cisnes to Villa O’Higgins

11km

Wet and very cold, fresh snow on tops.

 It was drizzling in the morning, so we went through the removal of the inner tent procedure.

Breakfast was just coffee as we had little distance to Villa O’Higgins.

We were as wet as we had been, both having to put on wet shoes and socks and somewhat damp clothes. Though, the wind through the trees before we went to bed did help dry things we had hung out.

We were packed and on the road by about 1000.

Whilst packing, I had got quite cold.

I have a problem with my hands getting really cold and my joints aching.

On the road this coldness was starting to affect me. I was feeling a bit nauseas.

Stopping, my hands were warmed up in my groin area. Cal was fine.

It was a wet ride to Villa. We were so glad we had put in that big day yesterday.

Arriving in Villa some hour  later, we pulled into the first hostal. This was Hostal El Mosco.

There were lots of other cyclists there. It was so good to be inside a warm dwelling.

The place had a great atmosphere. This was the end of the Carretera Austral, it was great to be in company for the last night of 2013.

Cal and I took a dormitory, we had it to ourselves which was great as once unpacked there was wet gear everywhere.

The afternoon was spent eating and using the net. We got and shared good information from the other cyclists there. All were heading south. All spoke of the strong winds yet to come.

Though, thankfully it was all talk about head winds they had experienced. We hope!

We all pitched in for a new year feast.

That of red wine, pork, salads, roast potato and cake.

The manager had her grandchild up staying he was a nice guy. He had an interest in English and with my interest in Spanish we enjoyed an impromptu language lesson together.

I gave him some of my books to read for the afternoon.

The evening was great, about a dozen of us sat down for the best meal we have had for two months.

The wine was flowing and so was the conversation, all over this unreal meal.

We finished eating just before the new year was welcomed.

Outside there was a bit of  fireworks thing happening. It mainly consisted of flares.

I finally got to bet at 0200, having spent the later part of the night with a Belgian couple who were cycling north.

Earlier in the day Cal and I had booked the ferry to Candelario Mancilla for the 2nd of January and were looking forward to a rest day on new years day.

During the afternoon the boat company informed us it was cancelled. The only other boat was tomorrow.

We had to take it as many cyclists here earlier had problems leaving here because of the ferry not operating.

We had to take it a bit easy on our celebrations, an early start was needed to catch the ferry some 8km from the hostal at 0830.



1/1/2014 Villa O’Higgins to Candelario Mancillo

8km Tot 23,934,

Fine and cold.

It was hard work arising. We had porridge packed and left. We made it to the ferry with time to spare.

 On arrival we were unpacking our gear off the bikes when I heard a splash.

Cal had dropped his tripod in the drink! He was so lucky, it was probably his least used bit of equipment. It was irretrievable in the deep milky water at the wharf.

Once onboard our bikes were secured on the foredeck.

The taxi arrived with 14 other people. Two were hikers from our hostal .

We had decided to take the trip to see Glacier Villa O’Higgins.

It was at first a pleasant passage to Candelario Mancillo, once out in the open waters of the lake the wind kicked in, coming out of the west. It was hitting the boat side on. At times it was difficult walking around the 60-70 foot vessel.

Our bikes and some stores were dropped off at Candelario Mancillo and the trip to the glacier began.

There were icebergs floating around in the lake as we got closer. The wind was now ferocious.

Once within 300m of the glacier the wind eased.

Where the light entered gaps in the ice there was a beautiful turquoise colour radiating.

The terminus of the glacier was in the lake.

It was a humbling experience to see nature on this scale so close.

How long did a piece of this ice take to make its journey here?

The terminus was a wall of tortured ice, pieces unable to suffer this torture any longer ultimately fell off, their life in the glacier was over.

They were destined to drift around in Lago Villa O’Higgins till they made the transition to water..

A rubber ducky was launched, ice collected and this was enjoyed with scotch on the decks.

Nice gesture! A nice way to further see in the new year.

Once back at  Candelario, we unloaded our panniers and once they were on the bikes were headed up to a camp area on a property over looking the lago.

The Belgian couple joned us.

We had a great camp site on sweet soft grasses over looking the bay.

We were pretty much out of the wind .

Cal and I had pasta and tuna for dinner. It was not raining Hurray!!

We were both in bed before dark, both of us were totally worn out after the last 48 hours of rain, cold, late nights and good company.

 

 

 

2/1/2014 Candelario Mancilla, CL to Lago Del Desierto, AR

D22, T3.2/9, Av6.35, max29, Tot 23956, 14,158

Perfect day with strong wind on exposed sites

It was great to be camping on lush summer grasses.

We arose about 0800, the others had already left after saying goodbye.

We hung around till the tent dried and were on the track by about 1200.

Immigration at the police building was some 20 minutes up the track. Formalities were carried out here with no problems

A track it was, we had to walk our bikes up much of the first climb,  to 600m

It was hard going and windy. It was literally just a farm track with loose road base.

Once at the top we got a very distant but stunning view of Mt Fitzroy. It was quite surreal like something out of lord of the Rings with its pencil like peak, so steep snow could not settle on it.

We sat here and enjoyed the last of our bread.

From here it was downhill but still very difficult in the loose gravel.

Rounding some corners, we got blasted by a fiercely cold wind.

After some time we entered a forest or what was left of it.

Though the canopy was almost complete, beneath it was so many dead fallen trees, some were cut up. Much of the present canopy was regrowth from fifty or sixty years ago.

The ground was almost covered with this decaying wood.

We soon came to a stream some 100m from the track, inspection revealed it held trout.

Within half an hour we had 4 good size fish, every hole held one or two fish.

These were filleted and in our stomachs soon afterwards.

They were so enjoyable as we sat on the creek bank in the warming sun.

The clear stream ambled on by. In the distance not so far away were mountains covered in patchy snow. The whole ambience and scenery typified the Patagonia we have come to know.

We soon came to the AR border, that of just a sign in a clearing

From here still in the forest the track deteriorated into just a foot track.

Roots, rocks and trees were all over its narrow width.

Most parts were unrideable.

I struggled with my freight train load of gear but managed on my own except for one steep little incline out of a creek. It was late in the day, being really tired Cal helped lug the bike to the top.

The worst thing was a rock infront of each wheel, it was so hard to initiate forward motion.

Brute strength was required.

We also encountered swamps and a few calf deep creek crossings.

I ended up with one shoe soaked whilst crossing one of these.

Coming out of the forest to a little vantage point we got the most stunning view of Fitzroy against a cloudless sky, we were very lucky. Here we made milo and ate biscuits and peanuts and were entranced by this sculpture from natures hand.

In the fore ground of this vista was Lago Del Desierto, how fitting, the scene was truly complete, an extraordinary mountain, a glassy lake, a lush forest, mountains, all draped in an azure cloudless sky.

We couldn’t go past this spot without stop for a brew and eats.

From here, it was all downhill to the AR immigration on the lake shore.

By now it was 2000 hrs, I was completely wornout and unable to coordinate properly and consequently dropped the bike on a number of occasions..

At one section a trench formed the track it was thigh deep and the panniers just squeezed through, concentration was needed to keep the front wheel straight so as they would not snag.

The whole way down was just was a half out of control gravity driven descent.

At about 2100 we were so relieved to be at the lake. The Aduanas took our passports whislt we set up camp to get the early morning sun

 The boat to take us across the lake was coming at 1000 in the morning.

We ate and crashed into our sleeping bags.

 I am now filling a drink bottle with boiling water to ease the pain from the cold in my fingers. It is a great idea on these nights that are everso chilled with wind.

Other people were camping around the Aduanas property, though none were cyclists.

3/12/2013 North end of Lago del Desierto to Rio

D6, T33min, Av10, Max37, tot 23,962, 14,164

 Overcast, and damp

We had to get up quite early to catch the ferry. Doing so, we were ready by about 1000. We were told the boat would not be here to 1200.

We had no option but to wait. The early morning had revealed Fitzroy against a burnt sky, again it was a surreal scene.

Though as the day progressed, it slowly disappeared behind cloud. We were so lucky yesterday.

When the boat did arrive, it was a small tourist aluminium vessel.

We put my bike onboard but it was to heavy. We worked it out that with us and the bikes it was another 4 people, it was overloaded.

The owner radio back to the south side of the lake. There was another bigger boat at 1500.

We carried out a few repairs to the bikes, Cal had a fish and caught a lovely trout off the wharf. It was released.

Time was spent chatting with Thomas and Marina a young couple from BA. They were hiking around the area.

On the first boat we were chatting with an Australian couple who were travelling to Antarctica after here.

It is quite amusing meeting some people.

Back at Candelario Mancilla we met an older guy walking. We were both talking to each other in Spanish. He then said, can you speak English. We  laughed when we both found we were from Australia.

It is like that now, most conversations are started in Spanish until we realize we both speak English.

Once at the southern shore, after the 40 minute trip, we headed up to a camp area.

Here a couple of older guys were in a little shelter selling asado beef and Chorizo in bread.

We ordered a steak each.

This would have to have  possibly been the best BBQ steak I have ever had, the meat was rare and literally dissolved in my mouth.

It was cooked over wood, the two guys were characters, they knew what they were doing. The simplicity of the meal was one of its greatest attributes. There was no need to do much with such delectable steak other than put in it a fresh baguette.  

Cal and I couldn’t shut up as to how good they were. So good we ordered a Chorizo to back it up.

We rode off from here feeling so satisfied from a hunger point of view.

Some 5km up the road to El Chaltén, we found a track from the gavel track heading from the road.

This lead to the river coming from the lake.

Here we found a great campsite on the side of the river. It was nice to be camping alongside clear rivers again.

In this area all trout must be released. The area must be famous for fishing as there were fishers everywhere with fly roads.

Back at the northern end of the lake one party that disembarked were fishing with a guide, they were decked out to the nines. And were going up to fish Laguna Largo.

This is the lago where Arroyo del Caballo flowed from where we caught our fish.

The later part of the day was misty and rain was doing its best to wet us.

Dinner was soup. Those steaks still sat sweetly in our stomachs.

The sound of a river once again put us to sleep.

Back at  Hostal Mosco I swapped a couple of English novels, one a booker prize winner, the other, a romance.

I am ploughing through the latter at the moment, it is amusing reading it. I have a craving to read English books before sleeping.

I am looking forward to starting the second, The Cats Table, by Micheal Ondaatje.

4/1/2013 Rio Chalten to 72km sth of El Chaltén

D72, T3.5/8, Av18.25, max61, Tot 24034, 14,236

Windy with some cloud

 Time was moving very slowly around camp, Cal replaced his brake pads, I had a shave and we generally just pottered about over mate and our breakfast. We finally got away about 1100.

The sun was up and things warmed up, a dry tent was packed. Back on the road, still gravel, the wind was pushing us along almost dangerously. Mt Fitzroy was shrouded in cloud again.

The road had large loose stones on its surface, without the tail wind it would have been hard work.

We were looking forward to arriving in El Chaltén, it marks the end of gravel roads for the last few weeks.

We literally got blown into town.

Once there we checked out accommodation. All the low end stuff was booked out. We were not keen on a tiny dormitory with all our gear.

We both bought some woollen gloves.

We decided not to stay here. The town was incredibly touristy with backpackers and trekkers everywhere.

A couple of hours were spent in a restaurant off the main street, enjoying terrific pizzas.

These and bottled coke  were great after a few days on the road.

The wifi was used but it was difficult even googling a topic, it was so slow.

From here, we bought groceries.

It is so good to be back in Argentina where even in a tourist town like this things are so much cheaper than in Chile.

We finally got away about 1800 and rode till about 2045, moving along at a rapid rate of knots aided by the same norwester. We were often pedalling along at 40km/hr.

We realised just how strong the wind was when stopped.

The terrain is more or less desert with grasses and shrubs present, no trees. The area is called Meseto del Viento, or plateau of the wind, aptly named.

Come 2030 we came across a gravel pit, this was the best we could find as far as camping was concerned. It was very difficult to get completely out of the wind.

Even forty foot below ground level, the wind was still swirling.

Setting up camp was rather tricky in the flukey wind.

Bread and sardines were had for dinner. We could see Mt Fitzroy clearly though not wholly from  out of the pit.

A large glacier could also be seen in the distance. The landscape is truly awe-inspiring.

A windy night was ahead we guessed.

5/1/2014 Gravel pit to a wool shed near Rio La Leona

D130, T5.5/11, Av22.36, Max63, Tot 24,164, 14,366

Fine, howling N’wester

 It had been a night of flapping synthetics, the wind never really let up. When it did, it was for an hour before daylight. Up about 0600, I climbed up out of our hole to see if Fitzroy was clear, there was still a cloud above her. Though, the morning sunrise cast interesting light upon the scene. The glacier could be seen clearly.

The water we got from a river yesterday, had been unfiltered, I had felt a bit off during the night.

For me, breakfast was only coffee from the town water from El Chaltén. Cal had porridge with the river water, he had felt ok.

We were actually out of the locale by 0800.

No sooner than we hit the road, we were being blown along. It was easy to maintain a speed on the flat road of 30 to 40km with little effort. We both agreed a higher gear would have been handy.

Water was a scarce commodity out here.

The huge milky lago Viedma was on our right most of the morning.

We stopped at a creek to filter water, so as to fill all available water vessels. We spotted a trout in a hole.

So, while I filtered water, Cal headed off for a fish. We ended up with 3 trout. These were filleted, bagged and put in a pannier for lunch.

Back in this arid environment many plants have thorns or extremely friendly burs that attach themselves to your socks. One of these burs can mean the difference between comfort and annoyance whilst pedalling.

The only life out here was at the odd estancia surrounded by trees and an occassional domestic livestock.

Cal did see some of the small Emu type birds at one point.

Soon we came to the intersection at Punta del Lago. This right hand turn put us side on to the wind. Speed went from 30 plus to 10km/hr.

We pushed through to La Leone. With the side wind, the road only had to veer a few degrees and it was just over our right shoulder, this helped so much.

It was not cold and when the sun was out it was quite hot. We were riding in shorts and shirts. It was cold if you stopped and actually felt the wind.

At La Leona we stopped in a cutting out of the wind for lunch .

We had done 80km by 1500, no problems. My effort had only been supplemented with a bag of peanuts and a coffee. This with an exceptionally strong tailwind much of the way.

We stopped for an hour and drank milo and heaps of mate with the sweet filtered creek water. The trout was a treat in bread rolls with Tabasco.

The terrain now had a few large gentle climbs, the wind was slightly over our shoulders. At about 1830 we decided to look for a camp.

None was found until we came to the Rio La Leona, here we left the road and dropped down to the river bank of the large glacial fed flow of milk.

Some guys were fishing under the bridge.

We parked under some Willows and ate some nuts and dulce and anchovies with crackers. We were trashed but felt great after the huge day of 130km, our biggest ride yet.

It was still blowing, this was an ok camp but still exposed.

I wandered back up the track, to check out a shed.

On arrival, it was seen to be a wool shed.

 Constructed of iron and wood. The timber floor inside was covered in small dags. It was not locked. This would be great just to have a break from the wind. It truly can drive you loco.

We were able to set the tent up in here. This would keep the odd mouse at bay.

Cal cooked up a brilliant curried pasta and tuna. We drank heaps of tea.

This place was like paradise out of the wind.

I write this in the morning, outside it is raining and blowing a fierce gale, we are cosy and dry. Rattling iron could be heard on the shed. The wind was incredibly strong, we had decided not to vacate our refuge if it got stronger.

Once again my mind thinks of an eagle feather, how we have again been looked after.

Had we been under the Willow tree by the river, we could have lost everything in the front. If the tent pegs came free in the sand, the drama does not bear thought.

Throughout this journey, good fortune has been my companion on many occasions.

Just the other, day before Villa O’Higgins in the wet I said to Cal we need shelter to have  cup of milo and eat. Around a couple of corners by a river was the little block building that housed an epitaph to a lost one.

This gave us shelter from the cold rain and wind. Thanks to the relatives of the deceased, we were able to seek refuge and replenish our cold wet bodies out of the wind.

6/1/2013 Woolshed to El Calafate, AR

D55, T4/7, Av 12.09, Max59, Tot 24,219, 14,421

Very cold with 45km/hr westerlies, wet morning

We were reluctant to leave our shelter. O ver breakfast, the wind did abate and the sun showed itself.

The road took us south east till the intersection with Ruta 11, here it would take us in a westerly direction to El Calafate and proper refuge.

We knew only to well that this last 30km into this fiercely relentless westerly off the mountais was going to be tough.

There was a front off in the distance over the milky waters of Lago Argentino as we left the shed.

We were pushed along nicely with the wind nearly over ouf right shoulders. It was really a beam reach. Our bikes were heeled heavy in the gusts.

As usual my hands were feeling the cold and as usual they began to stop feeling it, as they became numb. It was time to put on my neoprene diving gloves.

My leggings were also donned.

Traffic was reasonably heavy and travelling a a great speed. The road was narrow and without a shoulder.

The wind gusts saw us veering intothe middle of our lne at times, we hd little control over the situation.

At least the wind was somewhat of an aid.

Coming to the intersection some 20km later all this ended we were riding directly into the invisible onslaught of air.

Speed went from 25km to 8km.

We stopped to have a chat at the road sign. El Calafate and a hostal were going to be very very welcome on arrival.

 At first we draughted each other for 2km stints. After awhile this just got too much.

 It was a case of finding our own sustainable speed and just zoning out to another place.

Eyes were on the asphalt just ahead of the front wheel. My mind was on everything but the situation that existed.

Gusts blew us often onto the gravel shoulder. Some cars had to slow down as two apparently drunk cyclists were making their way along the highway.

Any thought of how bad it was was not to be entertained.

We stopped twice to eat, this was sapping energy rapidly.

Some reprieve was given in slight gullies, though on the ascent out a hammering was received.

We were both out of water once we reached the shores of Lago Argentino.

At the police check point into town we asked for water. The contents of my bottle fell down my throat like water at the top of a waterfall.

In two years of riding this short stint into this wind was one of the hardest ordeals yet.

Give me hills with 50 km of climbing over riding into head winds any day.

This could only be the start of these conditions as we head further south. Any road taking us west will most likely be similar.

Arriving in El Calafate we immediately looked for a hostal. The first was full. They told us of another, so luckily we got the last room.

It was a homely setup, and oh so warm inside.

If here try the hostal Jorgito, if you want a comfortable affordable place to stay.

We were both worn out. Cal fell on the bed and I fell asleep at the kitchen table infront of my computer.

Sometime later we headed into town to buy dinner, that of good steak and geens to cook back at the hostal.

Another guest and his girlfriend both from Bogota had been blown off their moto, he had his leg in plaster, she was fine.

A hot shower after six days of boats, pushing our bikes, wind, rain and gravel was like a thousand tiny hands massaging our bodies as the hot water fell from the shower rose.

We are now at nearly 51 degrees latitude south, well south of Stewart Island in NZ and half a continent south of Coffs Harbour my home in Australia.

Understandably, conditions are able to deteriorate rapidly. We feel we are prepared for this.

Cal said I wished him goodnight and was snoring a minute later.



PictureMotaña Fitzroy with lago Del Desierto in the foreground, We were lucky to have had such a perfect day here.

PictureThe sign says it all, here at the end of the road, Lago O'Higgins

PictureA little scotch on glacier O'Higgins, please

Picturecamping on the estacion at Candilario Mancilla

PictureWe were blown away with our first siting of Fitzroy

PictureTalk about bush walking, we just happen to have bikes with us.

PictureSmall fish but in perfect condition

PictureSummer love on the shores of Lago Del Desierto, AR

PictureRio Toro a few km after disembarking from the ferry. This stream is heavily fished

PictureEl Chaltén on the way out of town looking back.

PictureBack on the Argentine roads, great riding if you have the westerlies aft of your shoulders, that we did!

PictureMate ( pronounced martay, drunk from a mate with a bombilla) and trout rolls for lunch near the hotel La Leona.

PictureReady for the ride to El Calafate

PictureEstancias were the only points of reference in the otherwise undulating arid environment

PictureA "downwind" kind of smile

PictureThinking about what lay ahead, to leave or not to leave?

PictureGlacier O'Higgins windy and very cold , the vessel took us very close, 300m.

PictureAduanas Chilenas near Candelario Mancilla

PicturePhysical border in the bush.

PictureWe had to stop here for lunch and just take it all in.

PictureTimber littered the forest floor.

PictureLunch by the creek

PictureThe night before taking the boat across Lago Del Desierto

PictureThe "pit stop' first night out of El Chaltén

PictureCatching lunch, with Lago Viedma in the background. We filtered water for the day here, how sweet it was.

PictureThis wool shed like a four star hotel, it offered us shelter from the wind and just the best nights sleep. The night before El Calafate.

PictureEl Calafate was behind this front across Lago Argentino

PictureA "berg" well down wind from its birthplace from the glacier on Lago Villa O'Higgins

PictureFilling in spare time, this fish was caught from the wharf at the northern end of Lago Del Desierto. Incidentally it got to swim in the lake moments after this shot was taken.

Picturei didn't even noticed that pole trying to steal the limelight! Early morning, southerly view from the shores of Lago Del Desierto

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